3D Printer's Fan PWM Noise 100% Elimination
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
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👉🏻 In this video, I am making a 3D Printer Fan PWM Noise FIX that completely eliminates that extremely annoying noise.
CIRCUIT SIMULATION - www.falstad.com/circuit/circu...
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- Kingroon KP3S amzn.to/3yDvHWe
🕗 Timestamps:
00:00 - Things that DON'T WORK
00:35 - The Problem
01:06 - 2 ways to solve
01:34 - How it works
02:28 - Before vs After
02:40 - Few small disadvantages
03:33 - 2 ways to make
05:14 - More Info LINK
05:25 - Enclosure
05:47 - Installation
06:11 - What to be aware of
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#PWM #NOISE #FIX - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I appreciate how at the start you explained why you need each component. And my goodness, how tech has moved on, no longer needing you to draw with a pen and soak in acid yourself to get a custom PCB board. I was thinking "how do you know which polarity?" and then you answered that too!
Several of Marlin's settings are effective in reducing PWM noise, which is a problem with this KP3S.
For example:
#define FAN_SOFT_PWM
#define SOFT_PWM_SCALE 3
#define SOFT_PWM_DITHER
(Present in Configuration.h)
Yes. And I just started experimenting with Klipper, but guess what? It doesn't have those options.
@@alejandroperez5368 Klipper seems to have originally applied PWM noise countermeasures, so such noise does not seem to be a problem.
I also have Klipper installed on my KP3S, but I have not set such an option.
Using a 120 ohm resistor instead of a 51 ohm resistor will result is more linear behavior at the cost of a lower max speed. If your intentions are to lower volume anyway, that might be a better alternative.
I was under the impression the resistor has to be in parallel to the capacitor...seemingly i'm wrong, please explain why
@@WetDoggo The resistor is there to limit the inrush current flowing through the capacitor, so it has to be in series with it. A resistor in parallel (that is: between the 12/24V and 0V wires) would create a current path and would act as another load.
I believe you're describing a voltage divider (which would lower the voltage on the fan), but lowering the fan voltage isn't a goal of this project.
@@wojtek4p4 thanks mate
Couldn't you use an inductor, instead of a resistor so that you can still get Max fan speed, and maybe even get a linear response to the signal? All the while preventing an inrush current that could damage the control board?
Thanks for the video! Very informative and useful like always :)
Excellent vid again. You explain matters extremely well.
Thanks again!
You saved my sanity. Thank you!
Thanks for the video!
Great Work!
To still get the full RPM, I took 12V fans and reduced the voltage of the fan port by setting FAN_MAX_PWM in the Marlin configuration to 40.
That's a smart idea to use a lower voltage fan. You could also use a bigger resistor to drop the voltage. But if I remember correctly it will skew the non-linear fan curve even more with the circuit. So instead it would be better to add an additional resistor after the capacitor.
But that would produce more heat
Yes, you would just waste ~1W, but it is just an option :)
that does not reduce the voltage of the fan port truly, its still 24V just pulsed in intervals that are perceived as 12V
@@Fisheiyy And it's exactly what you want. You don't want to have a duty cycle of 1 at 24V, because the 12V fan would see those 24V.
Собрал схему как у автора видео, только резистор использовал на 5w мощности, в klipper установил частоту шим 1кгц, и реально, вентили стали работать идеально, без рывков и в разы тише. Спасибо 👍
Very interesting video. I stumbled upon this problem myself recently. I always thought, I had noisy fans until I realized, Klipper was to blame and I experimented with Cycle_Time command in Klipper. Thanx for your effort.
What value did you set the cycle_time to?
@@SibaNL Something like 0.0120
, but it's different for every fan, so you have to test different values.
I built a T filter. I forget what value little inductors but 470u capacitor is way too generous, i should have gone way way down as it holds speed for much too long. I didn't put thought into it, i just grabbed the first nearest components I had at hand. It allowed me to tune in the fan behaviour that i wanted anyway besides being too slow to ramp down. I have a suspicion that the inductors might be around 100uH 500mA type with several Ohms of DC resistance. I should check whenever i run into them again.
I kinda didn't really do it for noise, noise reduction was a side effect. I have a Sunon MagLev 5015 fan as PCF with Stall Guard which is horrible and without some smoothing could run very unreliably. I actually still wasnt happy with how the fan behaved, the bearing did make funny noises from externally introduced vibration, apparently the bearing is good if you leave it alone but gets weird once you knock it, which well not good mounted on a moving part, so i ended up packing the axle with grease from the back. Barbaric i know but whatever, I'm happy with it now. I used to have one of those $1 sleeve bearing fans but the bearing didnt live very long and also it never made quite as much air as the Sunon one. Maybe Delta next :D
This is excellent and explained amazingly. Also what program did you use to show the electrical and flow with resistor?
Glad you liked it, the program is Circuitjs1. There's online version or you can download from GitHub the standalone.
Thank you for this great tip !! I'm going crazy over the noise that my blower fan does above 54% pwm ....
I'm an idiot but I think you could limit the drawback of the resistor by using an NTC thermistor. High resistance when cold to limit in-rush current and its resistance will decrease as it heats up, reducing the wasted energy.
The circuit in the video is really basic and can be done a ton of different ways that are far better, but it works.
you can add a step up circut to up the voltage bu 5-10% shoudl fix your speed drop
What I got:
- If the freq of PWM is within human audible Range 20Hz-20k Hz it causes annoying noise.
- soln: use higher Freq using firmware " #define FAST_PWM_FAN
- high Freq could damage some boards that contains components that can't handle high frequency
- Capacitors are like sponges draw insane amounts of current when powered ON, we can limit that using resistors
Which software you used?
I know this is an odd question, but what about printers that share a 24v supply to the heater, parts cooling fan, and the hotend fan, but each has their own 0v by which the board controls the PWM signal. I would like to run the heater as it was, the parts cooling fans as 24v non PWM, and the hotend fans as a 12v non PWM. Is there a way you could do this?
What about instead od resistor use MOSFET that’s Will be driven by PWM and VIN will be from PSU? I currently don’t have time to try it, but I want to make PCB for it on a CNC mill to test it in future. I am using klipper for faster printing and cooling is necessary so this may help.
Why not use a jst connector terminals on the part and a patch so you don’t have to cut any wires and make it easier to take it on and off?
Would this work on the power supply fan? And the hotend cooling fan? Or is it only on the blower fans?
It makes a difference on any fans that are PWM controlled (like if you run the fan at 50% speed). But if all you do is control if it is fully on or off it will do nothing. So it is not needed for the PSU and hotend heatsink fans (unless you limit the speed of those fan in Klipper, then it will make a difference).
Do you have full lessons about electronics? On udemy or other sites? You are so good, I wish to have a teacher like u in my school.
Thanks, but sorry I don't.
I did skim the video so maybe I missed it, but did you not see any startup problems? This is one of those classical things that PWM is very good at, the pulsing nature means that its easier to break that friction from a stand-still. This could actually be overcome easily with software (just always issue a higher level PWM pulse when going from 0 PWM to < x % PWM), but I have never heard of this being implemented.
You mean the kick start time most firmwares have nowadays?^^
Why would current flow back into the voltage source? The voltage source consists of plus 12/24 volts. A mosfet switches on and off against minus. When the Mosfet is off where is the current supposed to flow back?
With the R-C element you have a low-pass that can be calculated in terms of frequency.
If the pulses come faster than the current flows, the voltage is averaged.
on 3d printer motherboards, the mosfet switches ground not positive
Hello, what software did you use to simulate the circuit.
Hey, I used circuitjs1.
Web version - www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html
Standalone - github.com/SEVA77/circuitjs1/releases/
If you want to import the circuit design, go to this link ( bit.ly/EasyProjectOrder ) and down below you can download zip file with the file made for circuitjs1.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Wow perfect thank you so much for you help, you are making my issues just fade away.
Although I wouldn't expect airflow to solve PWM issues, I'd be curious if the bellmouth/velocity stack attachment changes performance and/or noise unrelated to the PWM. Did you notice anything and/or test it when it was installed?
Yeah, PWM wise it does nothing. I rechecked and this velocity stack ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:3678157 ) reduces the airspeed through the duct from ~3.85m/s to ~3.75m/s. And you also get a more annoying sound of rushing air compared to the bare fan. I tested it with a 5015 2.4W fan at 24V.
So at least from my testing, and with all due respect to the creators, but all these "silencers" just makes things worse. Maybe there is a specific scenario where they perform better, but I have no desire to search for it. :)
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE thanks for the reply! While it's really cool that anyone can develop printable modifications, it does seem as though most are "solutions in search of problems" (if not problems in their own right).
True. Because creating what you think would work and creating something that actually works is like day and night. Yes, you can get lucky with a design, but usually, it takes multiple iterations until you reach your goal if you reach it at all, haha. And we are talking here about fluid dynamics, which is probably the most complex topic related to 3D printing.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Agreed. Having read a couple books on aerodynamics I quickly learned all of my intuitions were completely wrong 😆
it's better to put a input diode in series with a coil. in the middle, another diode must be use as a freewhell for the discharge current (in parallel with the coil+load), then a capacitor must be place in parallel to the load and that's it. it will have almost a linear response. The power loss are in the diodes only (can be ignored compared to the fan consumption).
I found 1 way to lower the fan speed lost I have uped my printer voltage from 24V to 25.5V but I had to re-tune the printers heaters.
Excellent video. A unique approach to silence fans
Thanks. The problem is pretty common with budget printers and it is very annoying, especially when printing PETG. So hopefully this solution will help for a lot of people.
i never expected to see my noice canceler in a video :D
what software did you use to test the circuit?
www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html
Hmm, in your circuit I don't think the diode is actually needed, IMO. In a printer the mosfet rapidly toggles, yes. But the charge potential the capacitor accumulates, won't exceed the voltage rail of the fan's output rail(12v or 24v), therefor it will never really try to backfeed into the power rails across the parasitic body diode of the switching mosfet. In your simulation, you are using a supply that is suddenly sinking current, that's not a normal behavior of PWM outputs! Simulating with a DC rail and a switch that operates a FET type device instead, will show this difference. The only time backfeed is possible is the moment power is turned off, and it will simply dissipate into the rail safely as it shuts down. Otherwise the RC filter you've implemented makes sense, and thank you for the insight into the PWM noises.
So the reason I used the diode is that it is a universal fix and I am afraid that there can be scenarios where not having a diode could damage something. I really really don't want anyone coming back complaining that they destroyed their board. And if people know that it is not needed for sure they can always just solder a simple wire instead of a diode.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE I think that's a fair enough reason, just so long as there is some guidance for it's use, and I think you make a good point, not everyone has electronics knowledge.
Hi @DIY PERSPECTIVE i have built your circuit, and work flwaless in my fans, but one fan (radial - 12cm) Sunon PMB121PLB2 (9.8w) i just cant put it working, any ideia why it is happening? Any solution?
Anyway tk soo much for your work!!! This tutorial is AMAZING!!
These circuits are made for up to 2.4W fans. You probably just burning components with a 4x more powerful fan. And if you scaled the components accordingly for a more powerful fan, as I said in the video there will be some fans that just don't work.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE tk for your fast reply :) can you help me to scale the components? only thing i scaled was the resistor to 10w. I know it is a risk the fan will not work with scaled circuit, but i will take the risk ;) can you help me? tk
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE i do some simulations and 1ohm resistor only?
I've a question, adding capacitor will defy the need for PWM? as it turns it on and off capacitor will ensure it's on all the time working on constant voltage that may damage the fan?
Fans are 100% fine working with voltage all the time.
@@ItsBoyRed yup, but will decrease its lifespan, that's why they're using PWM in the first place
I doubt that.
The reason they "last longer" with PWM is be course its easier to run them at a lower speeds.
Less speed, less wear on the bearing mechanism & the brushes if it has those. which i will BET on are the parts that bins most fans when they wear out enough, not the coil.
If you use the same exact RMS Voltage of the PWM signal you will get the exact same result.
PWM is speed control by limiting the current, with a set voltage.
@@airsubzero
I only buy another fan, problem solved. Had the same issue as you. New more expensive fans, no noise
i dont know man, ive changed the pwm frequency on all my printers, you will update the firmware some time anyways, or with firmwares like klipper its just a text file you modify
Why did you stick the airflow meter against the flat table? basically cutting off the airflow...
I have a question. I want to run two radial fans to one circuit. Each of the fans uses 0.12A and is 12V, therefore 1.44W each. Their total consumption of power would be 2.8W right? Is this an issue or limitation (the amount of power I'm drawing). For my choice of components I assume I should go with the 330uF capacitor and the 3W 25ohm resistor (octopus board v1.1, my power supply is 24v but my fan ports have Voltage selectors)... Do I have to make any changes to circuit or have different components to accommodate for what I'm trying to do ?
Not really, you can connect both fans to the circuit. If you are using one 3W resistor make sure it will have some airflow. You can also use two 3W resistors of 50ohms in parallel to get those same 25ohms and don't worry about them overheating.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE I haven't been able to find 3W resistors on Amazon at all. The most Watts I've found is 2W. How can I DIY those 2W resistors to have an equivalent of what I need ?
You can just use 3x of 2W resistors of ~75ohms in parallel. Personally, I order most of electronic components from AliExpress. But if I need highest quality stuff I order from the Mouser or DigiKey.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Thank you so much for all the help. Do you have a discord server ? And just to confirm, each of the tree resistors is 75ohm right ?
I don't have.
If you connect three 75omh value resistors in parallel total resistance will be 25ohms. So yes, all 75ohms.
you have to use ice liquid cool water tank . its a best solution of noise.
buying the correct type of fans would eliminate the noise all together :)
Problems I didn't know I had
wont this just change the biasing of the mosfet. Making low pwm values unusable?
Hey, Nice work, i tried with my components but it does not change anything. I own an ender 3 and the pwm signal is like "bz bz bz bz bz bz" like an abs system to control wheel of a car while brake are in use. What is the name of the app you use on the computer?
Hey, then maybe it is not the PWM noise. It is circuitjs1, there are online and downloadable versions.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE thanks for the reply . here is a kind of sound i have on my ender 3 : th-cam.com/users/shortsgKFBdkLlWcA the video is not from me, but the problem is the same, using the same 5015 Fan @ 24V .
I am using clipper what do you recomend my cycle time be is currley 10ms which is 0.010
10ms is 100Hz which falls into the audible range. If you are making a circuit like this you don't need to change anything. The circuit just makes the pulsating signal into a continuous one and that eliminates the audible PWM noise.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE So I smooths out the PWM and makes it more stable DC that the fan can work with and changing the Cycle time change the voltage slighly to the fan. Is this right?
To know exactly you should look at Klipper's documentation. In general cycle time defines how fast one operation is done. So it should be just the PWM frequency expressed in milliseconds and not Hertz. 10ms -100hz, 1ms - 1000hz or 1khz. Hope you get the point.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Lower frequencies are still audible with Klipper, even at 5 to 10Hz. Whatever Marlin devs did, they are geniuses.
@@alejandroperez5368 Technically every single transition from 0 to 100 in the PWM pulse train will exhibit _all_ the frequencies, ie. its a broadband noise sort of. No matter if you do them slowly.
I made this for an Ender 5 at 24 Volts. I used a 1N4007 diode, a 220uF 35V capacitor and 2x 100 Ohm in parallel to create a 50 Ohm resistor. My 4010 fan goes totally crazy with it, it keeps rattling and spinning up and down all the time. When i tried dual 5015 fans, it worked better, but the noise isn't really gone. Any ideas on how to tinker with the values to get a better result? I mean, if they are more silent at 100% than anything else, i need to improve something. ;) (All fans are rated 24V by the way).
Well, some fans won't work as I said in the video. But if you connected everything right, PWM noise must be gone 100% because it converts the pulsating voltage to the constant voltage signal. If you still get some noise then maybe it is not the PWM noise? The different realistic values won't make any difference in practice. It only reduces the max current and max voltage of the fan, and the capacitor of 220uF is more than enough for even a 3W fan. I honestly don't know what to suggest to you.
the 1n4007 diode is not a schottky quindi se la frequenza di switching pwm è elevata potrebbero esserci dei problemi a causa del reverse recovery time molto alto rispetto ad uno schottky.
Update 2023-04-25: I bought new 4010 blower fans which work fine without any need for a fix like this. It was the easiest solution.
And I can make a gasoline car much more fuel efficient simply by removing the gas engine and installing batteries and electric drive motors, but it's still a gas car just very efficient! I get that what you did works, but really you just made a DAC and un-PWMd the whole thing and turned it into an analog circuit to the fan like what everybody did before PWM fans existed.
can't see the price, how much is it to get it from pcbway?
At the moment of writing, 5 PCBs cost ~$5, and if you get the $5 OFF coupon you basically only pay for the shipping and other duties depending on the country you are living in. You should just check the price on their website it is way easier.
Excellent! But why don't manufacturers make such a simple revision? Maybe they're just deaf? Anyway, thank you so much and keep it up!
I ask the same question myself for years...
When they can save $0.01, they will sacrifice any quality of live improvements xD
Because adding these random capacitors, resistors and diodes to a component really messes up compatibly for actual manufactures designing electronics that specifically uses these fans.
It basically limits design-freedom and adds perhaps unwanted complexity.
Could you use an inductor instead of a resistor?
Well no. The only reason we need a resistor because we need to limit the inrush current of the capacitor to not blow the 3d printer's fan MOSFET. Inductors have very low resistance compared to what we need here.
Yes you can use an inductor, it presents an impedance to ac current. The inductor may be quite large but probably no larger than the module shown here.
I am giving a practical and not a theoretical advice. Why would you want to use an inductor when capacitor already stabilizes the voltage? The resistor is literally the component to limit the current. There's no need to make things more difficult for yourself, you know.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Well, you use what you want, both work. Just an inductor in series means no resistive losses. It works fine except that you need a large inductance (probably about 500mH). No diode either. Adding a parallel capacitor after the inductor would help even more. Inductors cost more than resistors so not necessarily a good idea but you may have a spare transformer lying around that can work as an inductor.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE ignorance & lack of some basic physics (electronics) knowledge has nothing to do with "practical approach"
why not move the resistor to just act upon the capacitor for less heat generation. may be slightly noisier but it would help with thermals
I tried, but the noise reduction was very low. It makes no sense to make a modification like this if you're not solving the problem completely, you know.
If I have two 1.2W fans should I connect each fan up to a board and then connect both boards to the Header on the printer motherboard
It depends on the board's power delivery control but in general you should NEVER do it. Just make two separate circuits for each fan, the components are not that expensive and if you ordering PCBs you will get minimum 5pcs anyways.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE So both boards go to the same header but 1 fan goes to each board, Is this correct.
Sorry, I slightly misread your question. So here is the explanation. Yes you can use, but remember that two circuits will draw 2x the startup current compared to one. The most efficient way is to connect both fans to one circuit. If your fans are 2.4w in total then it will be fine, just make sure to place the circuit somewhere where it will get at least some airflow.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Cool, that's all that I need, I have a noctua keep the board cool and there is a spot under the noctua cooler when I can put this to keep it cool because that fans runs all of the time
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Sorry to ask is it the startup current of when the fans start to spin or when each pulse is send from the mosfet
07:00 Resister values for 12/24v printers
Buy 24v fans and run on 12v and you can't hear anything... Works great for hot end cooling, Doesn't work that well for part cooling though.
You don't usually drive hotend fans with PWM signals. They're either ON or OFF. Unlike part cooling fans.
No, the easyest is to change PWM freq to 7-8Hz, recompile, reflash
Just my thoughts as well! And do you really mean 7-8hz (i.e. very low frequency so that it's inaudible) or 7-8khz so it's higher than the stock 1khz frequency and therefore also less audible?
Really meant 7-8 Hz. Even 5-6Hz is fine with some fans with lot of inertia. High frequency as 7-8khz will be loud and probably will mess with the driver circuit in the fan.
@@ThePhiliposophy i hear about 50-100Hz in the video, not 1Khz
How do you do that on Klipper? lol
You're wrong. The fan is switched by MOSFET transistor on the board and no current flows back if the transistor is closed! You don't need a diode. Diode simple steal another ~1V of voltage. Fan needs maximal about 0,15-0,2A of current, if a transistor allows 2A of pulse current you can reduce resistor to 12 Ohm or even less, because transistor open channel has resistance, capacitor has ESR > 0 and wires. Such big current flows only if printer will change power on fan from lower to higher. In steady state you have much smaller current fluctuations.
why not replace the resistor and make a low pass filter with an inductor
why not use a coil.... you know, like a buck converter, one that actually converts voltage
or just get a proper fan? like those cpu fans, 3 or 4 wires, hook them up with 12V, and attatch your fan output to a 1k with a 1uF low pass behind that to control the speed.... if you use a simple resistor and capacitor like in the video, the fan might fail at low voltages (low dutys) because it doesnt spin up, but it heats up
Hello, is there a way that this circuit could rise my output voltage? Because my motherboard gives me 8.8V and when I connect the circuit it gives something over 12V😮🤨
You can use a lower-value resistor, but like I said in the video it is unavoidable if you want to eliminate PWM noise.
this is a good concept, but imo not a problem many people have especially nowadays with good 3d printer motherboards like those from BTT, Mellow, Fysetc, etc, it sounds more like a problem with the fan rather than the boar
And you taking into account that 99% of the printers doesn't use any of those boards, right? It has nothing to do with the fans, but with the poor motherboard that doesn't filter PWM signal or runs PWM on not high enough frequency.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE most "stock" motherboard solutions from most printer companies are complete shit, as they will always be, because they are cheaping out as much as possible on them, but if you are doing something DIY like a voron or vcore or anything else, you are going to use a 3rd party board from one of those companies and they are extremely high quality
Yeah I perfectly understand that. This is why this video exist. To fix the problem with the most basic circuit that majority of the 3d printers might have. It's a very annoying problem too. So I don't understand why you say that not many people have this problem, especially when you agree that stock motherboards suck, you know.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE it depends on multiple factors imo, like the fan, motherboard, mosfets, firmware config, etc but when i said not many people have the problem, i was more referring to those in the diy space who use 3rd party motherboards from good companies like the ones i mentioned
Look, I see no interest in arguing with you if you think that, it is okay by me. My point is that you don't specify important details like "only DIY space" and expect creators to be oracles to know exactly what you mean and ignore the completely false statement. That is all. Cheers!
my printer control board doesn't use pwm.
Why the resistor doesn't go only in series with the capacitor? I should only limit the corrent to the capacitor, the corrent to the fan can remain unchange
Just try to simulate the circuit you have in mind and you will see why it doesn't work well. Because believe me I tried a lot of variations and how those affect the pwm noise in practice.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE But What did happen? What i thinhk could go wrong is that the capacitor wouldn't charge as fast, but you could reduce de resistence in that case. What simulator did you use?
You will have a voltage drop on the capacitor and the difference between those voltages will still produce pwm noise.
www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html
7:52 happened to me my 7530 effs up like this
I just connected my fan to the PSU and added a on off potentiometer.
That moment when you've never heard of a linear voltage regulator, so you make your own
LIthuania pog
Can't Marlin can do that via software?
Fast PWM, yes if your mainboard MOSFETs can handle it.
Use a proper pwm driven fan with 4 wires. This also gives printer feedback that the fan is actually spinning.
Without the diode you will get more linear fan speed charactericstic...
@Rato Borrachudo
Simply use a fan with an integrated controller
Where do you simply get those 24V 5015 fans?
Maybe what you can do to eliminate the performance loss is, if your printer is designed for 24V fans, use a 12V fan instead, and then adjust the resistor value accordingly.
Boys of the Dwarf.
Bad idea, why would you waste 12v just to create more heat?
He could have changed the circuit so only the capacitor was in series with the resistor, not the fan.
@@ItsBoyRed It's only a couple of watts. Margin of error territory compared to the filament melting.
do you have any idea how much heat putting 12v into a resistor will create?
Besides that i wont even fix the issue in the first place.
@@Knowbody42
@@ItsBoyRed It's not the volts, it's the watts. Literally, the amount of heat in watts it outputs is the same as the amount of power it consumes.
And when you match the resistance of the fan, the amount of power it consumes is the same as the amount of power the fan consumes. Which is something in the order of half a watt to a couple of watts depending on the fan and resistor.
I don't think you really need the diode
Just use a voltage regulator😂
This should have been installed from factory😂
Cat tested:-)
Why not using a buck converter instead?
Because you don't want to step down the voltage... you still want to have the full 24V signal at full speed.
noctua = problem solved
Just add grease
The program he used is called circuit simulator. It is a Java applet.
I don’t know why people never mention the names of these programs You’re welcome
I don't know why people never check the description before posting comments like these.
lmfao how is this legal in london?