They had such silicon wire before and I got that, but the EEL V4 version without the display. It worked OK cause the cables were a bit tight. Now they have these flat busbar style cables which seem to have more room for play not the tight fit we had with the cables 6 months ago. But it is a reliable , serious case but there is another issue to point out. If you screw in the plate for compression be carefull cause you can easily overscrew them cause they have a quite low torque they can handle. I had to buy new screws a bit bigger and that was quite a bit disappointing. We also had figured out a torque setting for usual compression with these rods and that were a lot higher than these screws could bear. We have use 4 pressure sensors and figured out when we would reach the right amount based on the eve recommendations. And then we added one more 1/4 of a turn and had the torque we needed. But i can live with that, the craftmanship of the product as it has arrived was great, especially the paint job. I was not able to build the battery without scratching anything but it has arrived without any scratches or dents on the paint or sheet metal.
@@nebulight Their practices are sketch for sure; however, I would encourage you to use whatever gets you the best deal, even if it's buying from the site directly rather than using my links :) Glad to hear yours is working well. I've heard lots of good things of EEL Battery!
I'm enjoying watching your videos because you're explaining everything to make people understand better, and I'm nearly viewed all of your videos and I learned so many things in building battery packs. Thanks lithium solar even though I don't know your name, keep it up one day you will be more better 👍.
Wow pretty cool kit. I reckon a lot of people have these cells sitting around. Great video as always, must add an extra layer of complexity to building a kit like this
If you peel the backing off the foam separators then they would be thinner. Stick them to the PCB separators so you don't mess up your batteries. You should add enough so that the cells are under pressure.
You do a very good job of explaining the build as you went along. Safety is super important when working with high amperage. This video makes me want to build one for my rv.
EXCELLENT content ! Being a DYI kinda guy I like to see your channel doing these type of projects & reviews of items. A few years back after building my solar system for the RV I was carefully watching several build their LIPO4 batteries. I was going to build mine but then the prices came down so much on the standard completed ones; it was less or the same for me to go that route. Now I'm back wanting to build a bigger battery system, like 2 or 3 of these or larger. I'll have to price compare this vs a LiTime. TNX for the great instruction(s).
Hi, great tutorial. I was looking for a video like yours, because I'm in the process of building a house and I need to consider the energy requirements and where the batteries will be installed 🙂
The alarm you were looking for, actually is showing in the main menu in the app "Modify pwd in time". The JK, although not perfect, does empower your programming and ability to change your settings. The 2 amp balancing feature is good to keep everything under control, and the dry contacts allow you to activate external devices/relays based on the charge/voltage if your battery. But it doesn't seem to work flawlessly in every bms.
I did see "Modify pwd in time" but I assumed that meant it was in programming mode because I entered the password for changing settings. Another "lost in translation" I suppose.
@LithiumSolar I know this because I have installed several JK's and have observed how they evolved overtime and that alarm also bugged me when that difference came up. I would like to see a BMS review done by you, you are thorough with your reviews, and also it is compatible with most inverters. The battery looks really well put together and really liked your review (as usual). No dead times and straight to the point.
I have 14 of these but no display or wheels. Mine actually came with silicon wire to go from BMS to main battery posts. I did not get an actual manual nor could I find an awesome tutorial as to how to put them together like you made.. Having them for over 9 months stacked 7 high, I have just recently stacked them 5 high and put the ones from the bottoms to the tops as they are ever so slightly damaged from all the weight.. I'll buy one more to keep the stacks all the same. Wish they had a t-class fuse (175a) located on the outside of the case for easy changing if something went wrong. I also wish they had a shut off switch ( made to work under load) instead of the breaker. Hope this helps and thanks for the video.
I wish I could post photos. I watch you all the time however you creep everyone out in my house because you look exactly like me to the point that when my dad was visiting we had to prove I was not in the video.
I bought the 12v 580AHr kit and am waiting to build it. They forgot some busbar so I am waiting on that so I can build. Seems high quality and I like the JK BMS. Shipping can take a long time for these however (2 months)
Good thing you did this, because the install of a DIY kit should have those things clearly in the manual... great step by step! Unfortunately, if it doesn't have UL listing for Solar, then I can't use it for a solar installation due to the code enforcement.
@@JohnHansknecht This might be true for individuals that are not going to need to have their solar installation inspected (ie, they don't have a state or local requirement). However, in my state, the code requires that I use UL listed equipment for my Solar installs. Many states have this requirement. Pretty much any state that follows NEC 2017, 2020 or 2023 will have this requirement unless specifically removed. The NEC requires UL listed devices for Solar Installations.
Great video as always. Its nice to see that you can build your own pack. Keep the videos coming. Woiuld also like to have an update on you chia farm. Thanks
Thanks! The Chia content was moved to my other channel here youtube.com/@HomeSysAdmin in case you're not aware :) It's still farming away. I haven't added any drives in a long time due to the token price not being where I'd hope for.
Great Video you certainly go into depth and breadth. Those Front Panel Bus Bars look pretty tricky, an extra cell hole would be prudent if it doesn't screw up the Cross Sectional Area. I live in Brazil and want to build 5 of these as I have A/C running.
Just looking at the price of the cells alone in your link, the 4 cells that give you 12V 100Ah are $209, yet we can buy already built 100A batteries for $130 that include the BMS and case.
@@deanb949 $209 for 4 of the 3.2V 100Ah batteries. Why would anyone pay that when you can get an entire 100Ah battery for (now $112) that includes those cells AND a BMS.
Looks like a pretty nice kit, thanks for sharing. I keep debating on whether or not I should try and take my current DIY banks and put them in a case. I'm guessing the cells probably won't fit because they aren't "fixtured".
The deciding factor with me, especially the 280's, has been the weight of the case. That's one thing that's often not discussed here. This one is still sitting on my bench. I think I'll be able to move it with help from the wife, but definitely not a case full of 280's...
@@LithiumSolar Definitely! I remember trying to lift the OrientPower 230Ah battery and they're just monsters! I know most people don't have to move batteries around once they're installed. Not sure about you, but I'm constantly having to move things around.
Tech tip1: put shrink tube on screwdriver shafts so only the tip remains conductive. Much harder to short something if you drop the screwdriver or slip accidentally Tech tip2: blue painter's tape is rated for zero volts. Better is electrical tape rated for 600V, which is available everywhere
The epoxy will protect against sipping voltage between cells and the foam protect it from moving on mobile applications and temp changes, both are ok depending of the use.
I noticed you said you could get hurt with bare hands working around the busbars. I've never though about it much as I thought anything under 50V was generally safe? Does the risk of shock go up just because of the amperage?
Well kinda sorta. These batteries are typically operating between 45 and 55 volts. The voltage is progressively higher starting at the most negative terminal on the battery. The power is isolated meaning there is no reference to earth ground unless you make it. So coming in contact with the with the wiring isn't likely to bite you unless you are also touching the negative side at the same time. Probably not very wise to grab the positive and negative of the battery at the same time. But you're right, it's common knowledge that 51 volts and higher is considering a shock hazard and anything less to not be a risk. Always best to lean toward not killing yourself. Nobody wants to see that.
I would like to comment that the 4x Hole Version seems better suited for such dIY devices ( 230ah=11kwh ) as it feel much stable then the 2x Hole Version. Maybe it is also worth mentioning that thoses DIY Case are pretty heavy . 70kg/150lbs , so be sure to plan ahead.
Looks nice. My concern is which cells fit and spending that much on infrastructure which has limited selection of cell sizes. Hmmm. Thoughts: Use a foam sheet at front and/or back of each cell stack to take up the slack. Maybe more than one sheet thick if still slack. Leave the left-to-right bus bar off until near the end - just before plugging the balance leads into the BMS. Looks like the bus bar you bent around over the edge is backwards or upside-down?
The bent up busbar only fits one way. The two side-by-side holes have to go on the BMS. The other end does not have 2 side-by-side holes that would match up. I really think it's just because of my older-style cells. I can see how it would be a perfect fit if using the LF280K with 2 screw holes on each terminal. Honestly, I'd rather it just have a piece of wire there but I guess that makes it difficult to allow for a 200A continuous rating.
i have four JK-Inverter-BMS and two Non-Inverter style. i will not use any other brand. my batteries are always balanced and i never needed to top balance them as the BMS does it for us.
Thanks for the great video, I have 2 of the 280 boxes and batteries coming from EEL with heating pads. I'm planning on buying a 6000XP. Is there anyway you can do a video on how to setup the communication between the two? Thanks
Remember that the backing to the foam pieces will add thickness too, since you kept them on in the dry fit. Still not sure how it would’ve fit, but it would’ve made a difference.
Yes, software is required for the initial configuration. I don't believe it has to be the app though. It did come with a USB cable for a computer connection. I have not looked at the computer software, but one would assume you can configure there as well.
@@LithiumSolar There is a APK file in the google drive, but it's not very helpful. No link to Open Source... That's a hard pass. This thing is e-waste in the near future.
I would have thought the small wires, running from the buss bar connections at each terminal, would have anti-chafing wrap of some sort to protect them from abrasion of rubbing against the long u-shaoed black metal brackets. Potential BOOM in a mobile application.
Some BMS don't work well if there is a large voltage difference between batteries. That's why it's always recommended to start with the connector of lower potential first. By leaving out the bank-connecting busbar, would also have to make sure to leave the balance leads off as well to prevent any possible problems.
SOC is still jacked up in the latest version. It works great if you only have one battery but chances of getting a reset on any others you may have are slim to none. When the first cell reaches the RCV setpoint it triggers the RCV timer. At the end of the time you specified it checks that the cell voltage(s) are still within the RCV setpoint and if they are you get a 100% reset, the RCV is dropped and RFV is started. Problem is your in a foot race with all the batteries and they are not going to reach the RCV setpoint at the same time and basically whoever gets there first is the winner and everybody else is left holding the bag.. Dry contacts are hit or miss if they work or not.
@7:48 - I think the reason you had an inch discrepancy in the cell length is that you say "It want's a piece Epoxy Board and the EVA foam between every cell." when in fact the text shows every TWO cells. by count; that would be Three pieces of foam per row not including any on the ends.
That is not correct. I placed a piece of foam between every two cells. I think the slight ambiguity in wording is due to Chinese > English translation.
I wonder if I were to build 4 or more of these batteries, would a Deye 12k or eg4 12k hybrid inverter read the communications ok and charge and discharge with no issues?
It would be nice to have some kits available for 100Ah cells. They have one big advantage - weight! The average person can move around a 51.2V 100Ah battery themselves. This requires two people and the 280Ah... without a lift, forget it.
Just bought two kits due to the current ice storm sucking power faster than I can make it. Interesting that when I ordered, grade A- batteries were available, so I chose that. Now it's just grade A. not sure of the difference.
I’ve been breaking my mind to come with a way to make a 12v 1200 amp hour system with my (16 3.2 314 ah cells. ) using one bms for all 16 and not having to make qty. 4 ,12v 300ah … maybe 2 600 ah… just a newbie spitballing 😂
I have 32 x300 amp lifpo4 Prismatic cells (8 feet battery cells). I want to make a 48 V power bank for my inverter 5 feet away. I want to use cable and cable terminals (flexible) between each of the Cells. What size copper stranded cable would you recommend?
Correct. This was mentioned in the introduction a few seconds in lol. You provide the cells from a distributor of your choice (or re-purpose used cells like I did).
I considered that as well; however, I think the slightly ambiguous wording is a result of translation. Also, there were 19 pieces of foam and, if that were the case, what would the other 11 pieces of foam be used for? 🤷🤷
Interesting. JK must have built these BMS's for this box? The power cable is usually a wire with a push on connector that pairs to a wire landed on the positive of the battery. The balance leads are landed on the positive side of the cells but I noticed here it's landed on the negative side of the bus bars.Either way it gets there I suppose. And the password is usually 123456. Sheesh. Come on JK! lol. You need the PC software to load firmware to the BMS also. Don't think the phone app will let you see the firmware, sorry (fireware) version? The latest and greatest is version 15.35 for hardware version 15. Quite a few changes including a change in how 100% SOC is determined. Still flaky at best but it's still a great BMS. Maybe they will add a second SOC timer and not tie it to the RCV timer?
@@LithiumSolar I am refering more to these chassis are only aimed at new cell buyers. No good for those who already have cells that don't conform to non-existant standard.
@@LithiumSolar Yeah, 120KW/h of 90A/h cells. Don't have the dimensions but just would have been nice if a case had some options for loading/packing different dimension cells. I am just rebuilding packs for 16S and putting on shelves. Making other packs fit in small tool cases for portable power when out in the weeds.
Other thing that should be changed is not having a 250A breaker. That is over 1C for these cells and who knows exactly how much over 250A it would trip.
It's standard for a breaker to be derated to 80%, which fits here. Additionally, the BMS should be handling over-current protection before the breaker ever does.
@@LithiumSolar yes, but mosfets can shorten. it is important that the polarity is installed correctly from the battery outwards! means MCB breaker plus must be at battery plus as in the case of a short somewhere in the installation, high currents will flow from the battery outwards. in the other direction the breaker will only trip in the instance of an overload at charging. that typically is not possible when the system is well designed. Still, if it trips (maybe also due to switching under reverse load), it can catch on fire. a fuse is the safer bet or use an MCCB before the battery...
This is not correct. The battery negative does not connect to the case ground. The case should be grounded to the rest of the overall electrical system to clear a fault if it occurs.
Negative and ground are not the same thing. If your installation requires the battery negative be grounded, then it should be done so correctly and not via a hole rubbed through an insulated busbar.
@@veeerzes sorry, I completely disagree. Look in all the server rack batteries and stand alone such as EG4, Discover, etc. The battery negative is not connected to the case.
EEL Battery Kits... cneelbattery.myshopify.com/collections/battery-box/?ref=lithiumsolar
LFP Cells... cneelbattery.myshopify.com/collections/lifepo4-cells/?ref=lithiumsolar
(affiliate links)
They had such silicon wire before and I got that, but the EEL V4 version without the display. It worked OK cause the cables were a bit tight. Now they have these flat busbar style cables which seem to have more room for play not the tight fit we had with the cables 6 months ago.
But it is a reliable , serious case but there is another issue to point out. If you screw in the plate for compression be carefull cause you can easily overscrew them cause they have a quite low torque they can handle. I had to buy new screws a bit bigger and that was quite a bit disappointing. We also had figured out a torque setting for usual compression with these rods and that were a lot higher than these screws could bear. We have use 4 pressure sensors and figured out when we would reach the right amount based on the eve recommendations. And then we added one more 1/4 of a turn and had the torque we needed.
But i can live with that, the craftmanship of the product as it has arrived was great, especially the paint job.
I was not able to build the battery without scratching anything but it has arrived without any scratches or dents on the paint or sheet metal.
Should I use Honey?? ;) Jokes aside, I have an EEL kit and I'm very pleased with mine.
@@nebulight Their practices are sketch for sure; however, I would encourage you to use whatever gets you the best deal, even if it's buying from the site directly rather than using my links :) Glad to hear yours is working well. I've heard lots of good things of EEL Battery!
Thank you for giving the price at the time of video. Everybody understands that it can change but it's nice to get a ballpark idea.
That kit is amazing. I don't have any need for this right now but it was very interesting seeing how it all goes together.
Thanks Will.
I'm enjoying watching your videos because you're explaining everything to make people understand better, and I'm nearly viewed all of your videos and I learned so many things in building battery packs. Thanks lithium solar even though I don't know your name, keep it up one day you will be more better 👍.
eel has been great to me. have ordered over 100kwh from them only one bad cell and I was sent out 4 replacement cells.
Wow pretty cool kit. I reckon a lot of people have these cells sitting around. Great video as always, must add an extra layer of complexity to building a kit like this
I got 2 of their upright versions on wheels 6 months ago and love them.
Yours have a main breaker on the front?
@@deanb949 Yes
@ Yes, and the cases are white.
This looks exactly like what I need for my solar installation I am planning this year! Thank you very much!
I’m thinking the same thing… ~$2500 for 15kWh?!?!? I’m searching for reliability on this brand though.
If you peel the backing off the foam separators then they would be thinner. Stick them to the PCB separators so you don't mess up your batteries. You should add enough so that the cells are under pressure.
Agree. Meant to stick to the PCB separators.
You do a very good job of explaining the build as you went along. Safety is super important when working with high amperage. This video makes me want to build one for my rv.
EXCELLENT content ! Being a DYI kinda guy I like to see your channel doing these type of projects & reviews of items. A few years back after building my solar system for the RV I was carefully watching several build their LIPO4 batteries. I was going to build mine but then the prices came down so much on the standard completed ones; it was less or the same for me to go that route. Now I'm back wanting to build a bigger battery system, like 2 or 3 of these or larger. I'll have to price compare this vs a LiTime. TNX for the great instruction(s).
Hi, great tutorial. I was looking for a video like yours, because I'm in the process of building a house and I need to consider the energy requirements and where the batteries will be installed 🙂
The alarm you were looking for, actually is showing in the main menu in the app "Modify pwd in time". The JK, although not perfect, does empower your programming and ability to change your settings. The 2 amp balancing feature is good to keep everything under control, and the dry contacts allow you to activate external devices/relays based on the charge/voltage if your battery. But it doesn't seem to work flawlessly in every bms.
I did see "Modify pwd in time" but I assumed that meant it was in programming mode because I entered the password for changing settings. Another "lost in translation" I suppose.
@LithiumSolar I know this because I have installed several JK's and have observed how they evolved overtime and that alarm also bugged me when that difference came up. I would like to see a BMS review done by you, you are thorough with your reviews, and also it is compatible with most inverters.
The battery looks really well put together and really liked your review (as usual). No dead times and straight to the point.
I have 14 of these but no display or wheels. Mine actually came with silicon wire to go from BMS to main battery posts. I did not get an actual manual nor could I find an awesome tutorial as to how to put them together like you made.. Having them for over 9 months stacked 7 high, I have just recently stacked them 5 high and put the ones from the bottoms to the tops as they are ever so slightly damaged from all the weight.. I'll buy one more to keep the stacks all the same.
Wish they had a t-class fuse (175a) located on the outside of the case for easy changing if something went wrong. I also wish they had a shut off switch ( made to work under load) instead of the breaker. Hope this helps and thanks for the video.
I wish I could post photos. I watch you all the time however you creep everyone out in my house because you look exactly like me to the point that when my dad was visiting we had to prove I was not in the video.
I bought the 12v 580AHr kit and am waiting to build it. They forgot some busbar so I am waiting on that so I can build. Seems high quality and I like the JK BMS. Shipping can take a long time for these however (2 months)
Good thing you did this, because the install of a DIY kit should have those things clearly in the manual...
great step by step!
Unfortunately, if it doesn't have UL listing for Solar, then I can't use it for a solar installation due to the code enforcement.
A homeowner doesn't need a UL listing. UL is for businesses selling a product.
@@JohnHansknecht This might be true for individuals that are not going to need to have their solar installation inspected (ie, they don't have a state or local requirement). However, in my state, the code requires that I use UL listed equipment for my Solar installs. Many states have this requirement. Pretty much any state that follows NEC 2017, 2020 or 2023 will have this requirement unless specifically removed. The NEC requires UL listed devices for Solar Installations.
Great video as always. Its nice to see that you can build your own pack. Keep the videos coming. Woiuld also like to have an update on you chia farm. Thanks
Thanks! The Chia content was moved to my other channel here youtube.com/@HomeSysAdmin in case you're not aware :) It's still farming away. I haven't added any drives in a long time due to the token price not being where I'd hope for.
Great Video you certainly go into depth and breadth. Those Front Panel Bus Bars look pretty tricky, an extra cell hole would be prudent if it doesn't screw up the Cross Sectional Area. I live in Brazil and want to build 5 of these as I have A/C running.
really top notch information and walk through, thanks again
A stack of 4 of these would be pretty dope.
great vid, and also super serviceable too
Great video and i would buy this in the future. Still afraid of electricity though....
Is the DC breaker supposed to serve as an MCCB?
Just looking at the price of the cells alone in your link, the 4 cells that give you 12V 100Ah are $209, yet we can buy already built 100A batteries for $130 that include the BMS and case.
They're 100ah each, so x4
@@deanb949 $209 for 4 of the 3.2V 100Ah batteries. Why would anyone pay that when you can get an entire 100Ah battery for (now $112) that includes those cells AND a BMS.
Looks like a pretty nice kit, thanks for sharing. I keep debating on whether or not I should try and take my current DIY banks and put them in a case. I'm guessing the cells probably won't fit because they aren't "fixtured".
The deciding factor with me, especially the 280's, has been the weight of the case. That's one thing that's often not discussed here. This one is still sitting on my bench. I think I'll be able to move it with help from the wife, but definitely not a case full of 280's...
@@LithiumSolar Definitely! I remember trying to lift the OrientPower 230Ah battery and they're just monsters! I know most people don't have to move batteries around once they're installed. Not sure about you, but I'm constantly having to move things around.
Hello, we have a wheeled chassis that comes with this kit. You can assemble the battery on the chassis and move it easily.
@ Is it an add-on or a separate kit?
@@AdamDeLayDIY This is an additional component
Any reason you didn’t wait to install the jumper busbar between the two banks right before you put the cover on/did your testing?
Tech tip1: put shrink tube on screwdriver shafts so only the tip remains conductive. Much harder to short something if you drop the screwdriver or slip accidentally
Tech tip2: blue painter's tape is rated for zero volts. Better is electrical tape rated for 600V, which is available everywhere
Great idea with the shrink tube on the screwdriver! And yes, that is painters tape and is rated for 0V lol.
orrr.... Buy proper 1000v insulated tools.. They are not that expensive..
if you had to choose between only putting foam or epoxy board between the cells, which would you prefer?
The epoxy will protect against sipping voltage between cells and the foam protect it from moving on mobile applications and temp changes, both are ok depending of the use.
I like the concept, but $500+ is a bit steep especially since you have to have/buy the cells as well. At $300ish, I would buy these by the pallet.
Hello, this is our retail price, if you have large quantity demand, the price is negotiable.
I noticed you said you could get hurt with bare hands working around the busbars. I've never though about it much as I thought anything under 50V was generally safe? Does the risk of shock go up just because of the amperage?
The voltage will be not noticeable but if you touch the wrong terminal with the wrench the glove will protect your fingers from being incinerated.
Well kinda sorta. These batteries are typically operating between 45 and 55 volts. The voltage is progressively higher starting at the most negative terminal on the battery. The power is isolated meaning there is no reference to earth ground unless you make it. So coming in contact with the with the wiring isn't likely to bite you unless you are also touching the negative side at the same time. Probably not very wise to grab the positive and negative of the battery at the same time. But you're right, it's common knowledge that 51 volts and higher is considering a shock hazard and anything less to not be a risk. Always best to lean toward not killing yourself. Nobody wants to see that.
Nice points on assembly I just need to find some cells just lying around that need to be used lol Cheers.
I would like to comment that the 4x Hole Version seems better suited for such dIY devices ( 230ah=11kwh ) as it feel much stable then the 2x Hole Version. Maybe it is also worth mentioning that thoses DIY Case are pretty heavy . 70kg/150lbs , so be sure to plan ahead.
Looks nice. My concern is which cells fit and spending that much on infrastructure which has limited selection of cell sizes. Hmmm.
Thoughts:
Use a foam sheet at front and/or back of each cell stack to take up the slack. Maybe more than one sheet thick if still slack.
Leave the left-to-right bus bar off until near the end - just before plugging the balance leads into the BMS.
Looks like the bus bar you bent around over the edge is backwards or upside-down?
The bent up busbar only fits one way. The two side-by-side holes have to go on the BMS. The other end does not have 2 side-by-side holes that would match up. I really think it's just because of my older-style cells. I can see how it would be a perfect fit if using the LF280K with 2 screw holes on each terminal. Honestly, I'd rather it just have a piece of wire there but I guess that makes it difficult to allow for a 200A continuous rating.
i have four JK-Inverter-BMS and two Non-Inverter style. i will not use any other brand. my batteries are always balanced and i never needed to top balance them as the BMS does it for us.
absolutely the best so far.
Thanks for the great video, I have 2 of the 280 boxes and batteries coming from EEL with heating pads. I'm planning on buying a 6000XP. Is there anyway you can do a video on how to setup the communication between the two? Thanks
Remember that the backing to the foam pieces will add thickness too, since you kept them on in the dry fit. Still not sure how it would’ve fit, but it would’ve made a difference.
That is a Phenomenal price for what you get.
great video, thanks for the thorough walk thru
My battery kits came without instruction manuals, this video will guide many people how to do it. I had same problem with the PW 1234 123456.
Great video! Thanks for making it.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
@19:30 So it depends on an app, software required? Wow they were doing so well up until then.
Yes, software is required for the initial configuration. I don't believe it has to be the app though. It did come with a USB cable for a computer connection. I have not looked at the computer software, but one would assume you can configure there as well.
@@LithiumSolar There is a APK file in the google drive, but it's not very helpful. No link to Open Source... That's a hard pass. This thing is e-waste in the near future.
I would have thought the small wires, running from the buss bar connections at each terminal, would have anti-chafing wrap of some sort to protect them from abrasion of rubbing against the long u-shaoed black metal brackets. Potential BOOM in a mobile application.
Help, I've watched your other videos regarding Battery Kits but can't find them. Can you please direct me to where they are? Thanks.
There is a link to the battery kits in the video description (and a pinned comment).
Should have left the bus-bar-jumper between the 2 banks at the back till after you got the wonkiness dealt with in front.
Some BMS don't work well if there is a large voltage difference between batteries. That's why it's always recommended to start with the connector of lower potential first. By leaving out the bank-connecting busbar, would also have to make sure to leave the balance leads off as well to prevent any possible problems.
What would be involved in connecting it to an existing stack of EG4 LL batteries so that the EG4 6000XP can communicate with it?
Can you please test the dry contacts I'm having issues getting them to work as well as the SoC tracking.
SOC is still jacked up in the latest version. It works great if you only have one battery but chances of getting a reset on any others you may have are slim to none. When the first cell reaches the RCV setpoint it triggers the RCV timer. At the end of the time you specified it checks that the cell voltage(s) are still within the RCV setpoint and if they are you get a 100% reset, the RCV is dropped and RFV is started. Problem is your in a foot race with all the batteries and they are not going to reach the RCV setpoint at the same time and basically whoever gets there first is the winner and everybody else is left holding the bag.. Dry contacts are hit or miss if they work or not.
@7:48 - I think the reason you had an inch discrepancy in the cell length is that you say "It want's a piece Epoxy Board and the EVA foam between every cell." when in fact the text shows every TWO cells. by count; that would be Three pieces of foam per row not including any on the ends.
That is not correct. I placed a piece of foam between every two cells. I think the slight ambiguity in wording is due to Chinese > English translation.
Impressive. You should teach, if you don't already.
I wonder if I were to build 4 or more of these batteries, would a Deye 12k or eg4 12k hybrid inverter read the communications ok and charge and discharge with no issues?
Hello, JK BMS can be perfectly adapted to Deye inverter, and they communicate through the low-voltage energy storage CAN communication protocol.
I’m still looking for a good case/BMS combo like this for eve 105ah. Everyone seems to have moved to the larger cells unfortunately.
It would be nice to have some kits available for 100Ah cells. They have one big advantage - weight! The average person can move around a 51.2V 100Ah battery themselves. This requires two people and the 280Ah... without a lift, forget it.
Thanks for doing this!
DIY Chinesium Pro-Tip: Google translate app can to real time translation with your camera ;)
Just bought two kits due to the current ice storm sucking power faster than I can make it. Interesting that when I ordered, grade A- batteries were available, so I chose that. Now it's just grade A. not sure of the difference.
I’ve been breaking my mind to come with a way to make a 12v 1200 amp hour system with my (16 3.2 314 ah cells. ) using one bms for all 16 and not having to make qty. 4 ,12v 300ah … maybe 2 600 ah… just a newbie spitballing 😂
I feel like this is my employee orientation on my first day of working at a Chinese factory.
It's good to get a job before I turn ten.
we are the slave labor now.....
I have 32 x300 amp lifpo4 Prismatic cells (8 feet battery cells). I want to make a 48 V power bank for my inverter 5 feet away. I want to use cable and cable terminals (flexible) between each of the Cells. What size copper stranded cable would you recommend?
A well done video.
I'd like to see it in action with an EG-4 MPPT Inverter, I am almost sold I just want to make sure it will communicate with my MPPT.
Yes!!!!!
Let’s go!
So, when you mention the price for the kit, you must mean the case and BMS only, I don’t see any kits with cells for that cost or even close.
The cells are about 2k more for the class A 280 to 300 AH without the battery Box..
Correct. This was mentioned in the introduction a few seconds in lol. You provide the cells from a distributor of your choice (or re-purpose used cells like I did).
@ ah, missed that, thanks. I figured it was too good a deal to be true.
I think you misread the spacing for those epoxy /foam boards. "between every TWO cells" So half of what you applied... which would probably fit!
I considered that as well; however, I think the slightly ambiguous wording is a result of translation. Also, there were 19 pieces of foam and, if that were the case, what would the other 11 pieces of foam be used for? 🤷🤷
The foam _was_ "between every two cells", if they had wanted you to put it every other cell they would have said "between every pair of cells".
Interesting. JK must have built these BMS's for this box? The power cable is usually a wire with a push on connector that pairs to a wire landed on the positive of the battery. The balance leads are landed on the positive side of the cells but I noticed here it's landed on the negative side of the bus bars.Either way it gets there I suppose. And the password is usually 123456. Sheesh. Come on JK! lol. You need the PC software to load firmware to the BMS also. Don't think the phone app will let you see the firmware, sorry (fireware) version? The latest and greatest is version 15.35 for hardware version 15. Quite a few changes including a change in how 100% SOC is determined. Still flaky at best but it's still a great BMS. Maybe they will add a second SOC timer and not tie it to the RCV timer?
Still holding off until the sodium packs are out!
Same problem as all the other kits, have to use sepcific sized cells.
280 to 320 AH cells are the same size.
As noted above, the cells are typically a standard size even across different brands and similar capacities.
@@LithiumSolar I am refering more to these chassis are only aimed at new cell buyers. No good for those who already have cells that don't conform to non-existant standard.
@@bentheguru4986 I'm curious what type of cells you have?
@@LithiumSolar Yeah, 120KW/h of 90A/h cells. Don't have the dimensions but just would have been nice if a case had some options for loading/packing different dimension cells.
I am just rebuilding packs for 16S and putting on shelves. Making other packs fit in small tool cases for portable power when out in the weeds.
Want to build a couple of 1000ah 48v batteries.
Nice
Other thing that should be changed is not having a 250A breaker. That is over 1C for these cells and who knows exactly how much over 250A it would trip.
It's standard for a breaker to be derated to 80%, which fits here. Additionally, the BMS should be handling over-current protection before the breaker ever does.
Yixiang sells the the exact same box for about the same price, but it's all pre-assembled.
I added cells, busbars, connected BMS, done.
Who did you buy from and how much?
Strange that they use such polarized breakers for battery systems as battery currents are always bi-directional. There should be a fuse instead.
Hi, we have the V5 version of this kit, which uses a fuse.
@@CNEEL-BATTERY Great!
Technically, the BMS should be the first means of over-current protection. I view the breaker as more of redundancy and for isolation purposes.
@@LithiumSolar yes, but mosfets can shorten. it is important that the polarity is installed correctly from the battery outwards! means MCB breaker plus must be at battery plus as in the case of a short somewhere in the installation, high currents will flow from the battery outwards. in the other direction the breaker will only trip in the instance of an overload at charging. that typically is not possible when the system is well designed. Still, if it trips (maybe also due to switching under reverse load), it can catch on fire. a fuse is the safer bet or use an MCCB before the battery...
i built 2 320Ah and have 2 more coming
Is it much cheaper than one of the decent prebuilt big 12v 300 plus amp batteries you van buy?
What is your price per kW?
7:52 every two cells, probably why the cells didn't fit.
@ 15:40 you're actually supposed to connect the case (ground) to negative so it wouldn't be a bad thing.
This is not correct. The battery negative does not connect to the case ground. The case should be grounded to the rest of the overall electrical system to clear a fault if it occurs.
Negative and ground are not the same thing. If your installation requires the battery negative be grounded, then it should be done so correctly and not via a hole rubbed through an insulated busbar.
@@LithiumSolar True, it isn't the way it should be but it would not create a hazard.
@@cgutowski471 The battery negative should also be connected to system ground. This is mentioned in almost every Victron installation manual.
@@veeerzes sorry, I completely disagree. Look in all the server rack batteries and stand alone such as EG4, Discover, etc. The battery negative is not connected to the case.
pls try DIY kits from XIHO
Nonsense
Better to buy complete battery
Much cheaper
What comparable battery is cheaper? Also how would you know that you are getting A grade cells?
The price of the cells from EVE are set. If a company is selling for much cheaper then you should be careful