Thanks for the video! One issue that I saw was about bleeding the lifters is that I believe you’re actually supposed to bleed the air out and fill them up with oil completely so that they’re solid and don’t push in. The Mitsubishi manual says to do this with diesel fuel. The GSC website says to do it with oil and they have instructions. From what I’ve researched there’s a lot of confusion about bleeding the air out vs bleeding the oil out. So I’m not 100% sure but I’m leaning towards bleeding the air out since the manual and gsc both say to do it that way. Here’s the link to GSC’s instructions. www.power-division.com/how-to-bleed-your-zero-tick-lifters.html
from my experience, the bleeding is to pre-prime the HLAs with fresh new oil, getting rid of any old stuff. If the factory service manual says to use diesel, this would only be for the initial charge/clean. I dont think additional diesels (even a small amount) is advised to keep in the oil, as it would thin the oil. BUT diesel will clean a sticky HLA no prob. and having primed HLAs will not cause a bent valve as long as the timing is correct. Leaving them unprimed will make the cam install easier, with less easier compression resistance (just air) in the HLA. However on initial start, if you were start with unprimed HLA, you run the risk of damaging them or having one refuse to prime. The video uploader avoided this for the most part, by pre-priming them some by turning the oil pump before the timing belt is attached. Note, this may not have bled the air from them completely, since the valves were in various states and didn't change their orientation, which would have left some HLA in a slightly compressed state.
So I’m just getting ready to do this on my car and as long as I have my timing gears at the little white marks point up I should be ok to start the process and won’t have to mess with the timing? And thanks for the video very helpful
Awesome job! I was looking for some sort of video on removing/replacing camshafts and your video was exactly what I was looking for even though I have a 2010 Cadillac CTS. I'm sure most of the procedures are similar and helped me understand the process better. I guess you have to remove the chain from the camshafts in order to remove them on pretty much any car with overhead cams? I was hoping I could avoid that but looks like it would be impossible. Is that basically the case?
sir good day to you im watching your video i have a i littebit comment about your video i wacth the video from start at to end my comment is about the timing mark you didn't show how to set the timing belt of the engine. how do i know sir if the timing of camshaft is in write position? i hope next time sir you show how to set the timing belt in same engine thanks sir
I need help! After cleaning the lifters and "flushing" them my cyl 1 valves won't properly close, they have a 0.3mm gap, I've posted an emergency video with this problem, is there different measurements on the rockers?
Where is a guy like you when I need it. 2 mechanics and hundreds of dollars and headaches later 4 months down the line and my 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4 still cranks but no start. It ran strong started up good up until the first mechanic replaced water pump and belts. Second mechanic came to diagnose the no start issue with no success. I’ve troubleshooted and diagnosed to my own ability Fuel Spark Power Air Electrical wiring ECU Immobilizer you name it a part of the whole process of elimination still with no success. I don’t know what else to do. Please help!
Random question but were you putting sealant UNDER the #1 intake cam cap before tightening vs applying it on either side of the cap after installation and right before valve cover was put on?
Paul, quick question as I am going back through this video.. So we bleed the lifters, but then you prime them later on? I thought the whole point of bleeding them was to remove the oil in them so that they were easier to compress. (or does installing the cam compress them and thus you are just priming a compressed lifter?) Side note: where ya been?
To the best of my understanding, the biggest difference is: the cams are back in place and the timing marks are all lined up before priming. So the lifters will pump up so much depending where the cam is sitting. VS taking cams out, not bleeding the lifters, when you are putting the cams back in they are not 100% set with the timing marks. Believe me, I do see what you are saying. But if you really think about it, there is not much difference between priming them like i did and the first time you fire the engine. So from a "why did i bother to bleed the lifters?" standpoint, you could use the same argument. Hopefully that makes sense. Side note: life sucks sometimes. I'll probably explain as much as i can when i get back into this project.
I think I understand what you're saying. Essentially you "zero" out all the lifters by bleeding them before putting the cam in, then fill them up to conform to the cam lobes. Probably not the best way I could have said that but yeah. I completely see why somebody needs to bleed the lifters. And no problem man, life has a tendency to cramp our styles from time to time. Whatever you've got going on good luck getting through it and we'll see you when you're ready.
Mate dont know much about car engines really at all but need to do a camshaft it snapped dont know how why just woke up tried to start the car and she was not going thought it might of been a starter but its been replaced stuffed around trying to do self diagnosing and nothing was working popped the oil cap looked in the engine turned it over cam not turning and timing belt and cam wheels moving found the problem not what I wanted after just replaceing the motor old one went on me so now i have a pull apart job again and timing while im at it
Question! You are bleeding the lifters in air. Is that a proven method? I know that many remove and bleed their lifters in oil just because air is trapped inside and they got the noisy lifter tick. Just curious because this is exactly the opposite of what the manual and internet told me until today. :)
Sebastian Dienst it’s proven to me in the fact that it’s what I did (obviously) and I have not had any issues. I do not have any lifter tick. However, you can do it the way you think works best. 👍
IMO - the Kiggly HLA is not related to HP, It's relate to road course racing. If you road course race its a decent band-aid for potential low oil pressure issues on corners. However, your oil pressure will still dip dangerously low on longer right handed sweepers even with the HLA. Most of my evo friends are road course racers, so i cant speak as much to drag guys and if it help on the drag strip.
@@BoostedFilms Thanks for the reply! I am setting up for Roll Racing & the occasional circuit track days! I guess it couldn't hurt having it installed!
Why would you take the oil out of the lifters? I know it makes it compress easy but, isnt bleeding them to actually get the air out and fill it with oil before you start the car? Like in a little bucket you compress them IN oil to get the air out? I feel like having all soft lifters would be a little sketchy on first start up no? Not trying to pick it apart but its just a concern of mine before I do this on my evo. Sorry if I got it backwards I just thought bleeding it meant FILLED with oil, not bleeding it out.
The main goal is to prevent the valves from hitting the piston on start up. A bleed lifter is one that will not be as stiff, and there by wont open the valves as far. Priming the lifters after you install them should build them up enough to not ever be super soft. All I know for sure is I did this video years ago and ever worked out well. Never hurts to question things. You can probably do more research elsewhere and get better information than I can provide.
Ty for the info, I was checking it out more and it seems a lot of ppl put them in soft like this which makes sense. But i assume maybe to put a little engine oil in them but not to a point where its a stiff lifter again. And on start up i feel like they will fill with oil again pretty quick. I assume thats the logic behind it. @@BoostedFilms
@@BoostedFilms I only questioned it because if you look at forums some ppl say fully soft, some say soak in diesel till you cant squeeze them then put them in the engine(weird). And the factory manual even says it this way but its just confusing. Ill do it your method, it seemd to work fine.
Marek Sumguy that's why he primed them a 2nd time using the balance shaft and oil pump. You gotta bleed them to where they're sort of soft to basically reset the lifter to be able to prime it again for the newer timing marks.(because of the duration.) it would be pointless to not bleed them, keep them filled and not able to be compressed, putting the new cam in and tightening it down and the lifter be set improperly. That's how you get bent valves my dude.
Good question. I only added 2 quarts. I also had to block off the holes by the oil filter that feed to the oil cooler and i had to block off the turbo oil feed line coming from the head as well.
CARAMBA MEU JOVEM / VC NEM IMAGINA O QUANTO SEU VIDEO ME AJUDOU EU ESTOU COM UM 4G93K E GOSTARIA DE SABER SE A CHAVE DE AJUSTE DE PONTO E TROCA DA CORREIA ,É UMA QUE FICA ENTRE AS POLIAS DA CORREIRA QUE É USADO NO 4G63K SERVE NO MEU MOTOR EU VI ESTA FERRAMENTA NO ALI EXPRESS GOSTARIA QUE VC ME RESPONDESSE . ( OU ALGUEM QUE SE INTERESSAR EM ME RESPONDER ) jeronimoterraplana@gmail.com
Thanks for the comment. Have you bleed used lifters in the past and what worked best for you? Other comments already discussed the Diesel fuel option and GSC's recommendations (www.power-division.com/how-to-bleed-your-zero-tick-lifters.html). This was my first time bleeding lifters and how i was told to do it, I documented my process and it worked for me. But I do encourage others to share their experiences in the comments.
Do you know if this works same for an evo3 4g63t in my eclipse and when can you go with an aftermarket cam with no additional upgrades I don’t need to change lifters or anything, and will it need a tune afterwards to adjust air fuel
Am I the only one that watches all of his vids without even owning an EVO yet??
What size wrench did you use? To hold the camshaft to loosen the cam gear bolt?
Nice tip about priming at the end. I'll keep that one in mind.
Thanks for the video! One issue that I saw was about bleeding the lifters is that I believe you’re actually supposed to bleed the air out and fill them up with oil completely so that they’re solid and don’t push in. The Mitsubishi manual says to do this with diesel fuel. The GSC website says to do it with oil and they have instructions. From what I’ve researched there’s a lot of confusion about bleeding the air out vs bleeding the oil out. So I’m not 100% sure but I’m leaning towards bleeding the air out since the manual and gsc both say to do it that way. Here’s the link to GSC’s instructions.
www.power-division.com/how-to-bleed-your-zero-tick-lifters.html
I don't know if it was added in, but that's the same link in the description.
from my experience, the bleeding is to pre-prime the HLAs with fresh new oil, getting rid of any old stuff. If the factory service manual says to use diesel, this would only be for the initial charge/clean. I dont think additional diesels (even a small amount) is advised to keep in the oil, as it would thin the oil. BUT diesel will clean a sticky HLA no prob. and having primed HLAs will not cause a bent valve as long as the timing is correct.
Leaving them unprimed will make the cam install easier, with less easier compression resistance (just air) in the HLA. However on initial start, if you were start with unprimed HLA, you run the risk of damaging them or having one refuse to prime. The video uploader avoided this for the most part, by pre-priming them some by turning the oil pump before the timing belt is attached. Note, this may not have bled the air from them completely, since the valves were in various states and didn't change their orientation, which would have left some HLA in a slightly compressed state.
dude, that was a really good video with good commentary. Thanks for the info
Always the best evo videos
You did a pretty good job at the video too you have more details then most people like the videos that shows you stuff like you have shown good job
So I’m just getting ready to do this on my car and as long as I have my timing gears at the little white marks point up I should be ok to start the process and won’t have to mess with the timing? And thanks for the video very helpful
You saved my life I couldn't find any videos of my stuck lifters I was going to take off the head thank you Soo much I'm subscribing
Awesome job! I was looking for some sort of video on removing/replacing camshafts and your video was exactly what I was looking for even though I have a 2010 Cadillac CTS. I'm sure most of the procedures are similar and helped me understand the process better. I guess you have to remove the chain from the camshafts in order to remove them on pretty much any car with overhead cams? I was hoping I could avoid that but looks like it would be impossible. Is that basically the case?
great video can't believe how little views it has
I needed this video about a month ago lol; keep up the great videos! Evo FTW
sir good day to you
im watching your video
i have a i littebit comment
about your video
i wacth the video from start at to end
my comment is about the timing mark
you didn't show how to set the timing belt of the engine.
how do i know sir if the timing of camshaft is in write position?
i hope next time sir you show how to set the timing belt
in same engine
thanks sir
th-cam.com/video/SRQr6Bdup-c/w-d-xo.html
I need help! After cleaning the lifters and "flushing" them my cyl 1 valves won't properly close, they have a 0.3mm gap, I've posted an emergency video with this problem, is there different measurements on the rockers?
Where is a guy like you when I need it. 2 mechanics and hundreds of dollars and headaches later 4 months down the line and my 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4 still cranks but no start. It ran strong started up good up until the first mechanic replaced water pump and belts. Second mechanic came to diagnose the no start issue with no success. I’ve troubleshooted and diagnosed to my own ability Fuel Spark Power Air Electrical wiring ECU Immobilizer you name it a part of the whole process of elimination still with no success. I don’t know what else to do. Please help!
Random question but were you putting sealant UNDER the #1 intake cam cap before tightening vs applying it on either side of the cap after installation and right before valve cover was put on?
Quick question: Is it safe to install cam like this? what is the common mistakes that people make when they install the cam?
thank you
Paul, quick question as I am going back through this video.. So we bleed the lifters, but then you prime them later on? I thought the whole point of bleeding them was to remove the oil in them so that they were easier to compress. (or does installing the cam compress them and thus you are just priming a compressed lifter?)
Side note: where ya been?
To the best of my understanding, the biggest difference is: the cams are back in place and the timing marks are all lined up before priming. So the lifters will pump up so much depending where the cam is sitting. VS taking cams out, not bleeding the lifters, when you are putting the cams back in they are not 100% set with the timing marks.
Believe me, I do see what you are saying. But if you really think about it, there is not much difference between priming them like i did and the first time you fire the engine. So from a "why did i bother to bleed the lifters?" standpoint, you could use the same argument. Hopefully that makes sense.
Side note: life sucks sometimes. I'll probably explain as much as i can when i get back into this project.
I think I understand what you're saying. Essentially you "zero" out all the lifters by bleeding them before putting the cam in, then fill them up to conform to the cam lobes. Probably not the best way I could have said that but yeah. I completely see why somebody needs to bleed the lifters.
And no problem man, life has a tendency to cramp our styles from time to time. Whatever you've got going on good luck getting through it and we'll see you when you're ready.
Thanks! Very helpful.
Mate dont know much about car engines really at all but need to do a camshaft it snapped dont know how why just woke up tried to start the car and she was not going thought it might of been a starter but its been replaced stuffed around trying to do self diagnosing and nothing was working popped the oil cap looked in the engine turned it over cam not turning and timing belt and cam wheels moving found the problem not what I wanted after just replaceing the motor old one went on me so now i have a pull apart job again and timing while im at it
Have come across the timing gears shearing the key way or locating pin off the cam shaft. Maybe what yours has done, question is, what's caused it? 🤔
Is it mandate to bleed the lifters? What happens if I don’t do it?
Umm not checking any tolerances there would the be needed for a new cam?
Be more descriptive. What tolerance are you trying to check? And even if you could check it, how would you adjust it?
Wasn't sure when you swap cams if checking clearances of journals and caps, was needed. Ty
awesome tutorial. Ill use this when i do my valve seals. Thank you.
i currently have the hks 272 and will switch to S2's. what was your HP yield from the swap?
would you say that you have to degree your cams? im putting gsc s2 cams in my evo 9 and im not sure if i should degree them or not
Cheers Brah 🙌🏻
Good refresher video 💪
how tight do keep cam bering caps
So you don’t have to fit adjustable cam sprockets when you fit bigger cams?
You do not need adjustable cam gears to run larger cams
excellent tech video. Thanks.
Great vid Dog!
Lots of good tips 👌🏿
Helpful
Do you need to replace any of these bolts, not sprocket bolt or bearing cap bolts?
You shouldn't have to replace any bolts unless they are damaged for some reason.
sick video bro !
Question! You are bleeding the lifters in air. Is that a proven method? I know that many remove and bleed their lifters in oil just because air is trapped inside and they got the noisy lifter tick. Just curious because this is exactly the opposite of what the manual and internet told me until today. :)
Sebastian Dienst it’s proven to me in the fact that it’s what I did (obviously) and I have not had any issues. I do not have any lifter tick. However, you can do it the way you think works best. 👍
Great video my guy very specific
thanks. Hope it was helpful
Well appreciated nice blue print 💙
What oil should I use for the break in period. Just installed Gs2 s2 cams last night.
I don't think you need to change up your oil for just a cam install. Adding the cam lube during install should have it covered.
@@BoostedFilms was just curious cuz the back of the card it said to change oil than drive for 1000 miles than than it’s already broken into
@@EVO_IX wouldn’t hurt to change your oil earlier than normal after cam install if that’s what they recommend
No Kiggly HLA??? When is the HLA relevant? Power wise & is it needed for 400hp or less?
IMO - the Kiggly HLA is not related to HP, It's relate to road course racing. If you road course race its a decent band-aid for potential low oil pressure issues on corners. However, your oil pressure will still dip dangerously low on longer right handed sweepers even with the HLA. Most of my evo friends are road course racers, so i cant speak as much to drag guys and if it help on the drag strip.
@@BoostedFilms Thanks for the reply! I am setting up for Roll Racing & the occasional circuit track days! I guess it couldn't hurt having it installed!
hello
2 question
A-why do you change HKS camshaft
B what spring do you have original or reinforce?
Thx
Stock springs. Bought the GSC cams before i knew the engine had HKS cams in it.
Boosted Films thx you
Happy new year!!
Great video !
Why would you take the oil out of the lifters? I know it makes it compress easy but, isnt bleeding them to actually get the air out and fill it with oil before you start the car? Like in a little bucket you compress them IN oil to get the air out? I feel like having all soft lifters would be a little sketchy on first start up no? Not trying to pick it apart but its just a concern of mine before I do this on my evo. Sorry if I got it backwards I just thought bleeding it meant FILLED with oil, not bleeding it out.
The main goal is to prevent the valves from hitting the piston on start up. A bleed lifter is one that will not be as stiff, and there by wont open the valves as far. Priming the lifters after you install them should build them up enough to not ever be super soft. All I know for sure is I did this video years ago and ever worked out well. Never hurts to question things. You can probably do more research elsewhere and get better information than I can provide.
Ty for the info, I was checking it out more and it seems a lot of ppl put them in soft like this which makes sense. But i assume maybe to put a little engine oil in them but not to a point where its a stiff lifter again. And on start up i feel like they will fill with oil again pretty quick. I assume thats the logic behind it. @@BoostedFilms
@@BoostedFilms I only questioned it because if you look at forums some ppl say fully soft, some say soak in diesel till you cant squeeze them then put them in the engine(weird). And the factory manual even says it this way but its just confusing. Ill do it your method, it seemd to work fine.
watch 13:50... Priming the lifters adds oil through them. @@z400racerr910
i somehow missed this wth, thanks again man good info@@BoostedFilms
im getting tik tik tik noise after installing cams why is that?
good shit man!
I've never installed a cam... when do you have to degree the cam ?
Ned for an Evo, when you buy adjustable cam gears.
Ah ok, is that because when you get aftermarket cam gears there isn’t really a ‘notch’ to go off of?
The lifters are supposed to be stiff!!! (Hydraulically locked) that means they’re functioning properly!
Marek Sumguy that's why he primed them a 2nd time using the balance shaft and oil pump. You gotta bleed them to where they're sort of soft to basically reset the lifter to be able to prime it again for the newer timing marks.(because of the duration.) it would be pointless to not bleed them, keep them filled and not able to be compressed, putting the new cam in and tightening it down and the lifter be set improperly. That's how you get bent valves my dude.
jeffrey queen bent valves?? These lifters have bleed-off valves where they won’t extend any further! Do you even know what your talking about?!
@@queeneboy566 you’ll only been valves if you set your timing wrong. If they come out stiff already when you took it out, Do the same.
What is a cam
how many mileage ?
I love when TH-camrs comment on the commentors 😂 them fools know how to do EVERYTHING
When priming, how much oil did you have in the engine? a full 5 or so quarts or less?
Good question. I only added 2 quarts. I also had to block off the holes by the oil filter that feed to the oil cooler and i had to block off the turbo oil feed line coming from the head as well.
Boosted Films alright. thanks for the quick reply man.
I thought all GSC cams were billet
Are those hks cams for sale?
I gave them away in a contest
Boosted Films guess I'm too late
Please do an evo x!!! :((
I don't own one, but maybe someday!
Hks cams out and gs? Brand in lol...
I see it seems you have experience "bleeding" the lifters lol
stroke it!
好想买evo
CARAMBA MEU JOVEM /
VC NEM IMAGINA O QUANTO SEU VIDEO ME AJUDOU
EU ESTOU COM UM 4G93K E GOSTARIA DE SABER SE A CHAVE DE AJUSTE DE PONTO E TROCA DA CORREIA ,É UMA QUE FICA ENTRE
AS POLIAS DA CORREIRA
QUE É USADO NO 4G63K SERVE NO MEU MOTOR
EU VI ESTA FERRAMENTA NO ALI EXPRESS
GOSTARIA QUE VC ME RESPONDESSE .
( OU ALGUEM QUE SE INTERESSAR EM ME RESPONDER )
jeronimoterraplana@gmail.com
That is NOT how you bleed the lifters!
Thanks for the comment. Have you bleed used lifters in the past and what worked best for you? Other comments already discussed the Diesel fuel option and GSC's recommendations (www.power-division.com/how-to-bleed-your-zero-tick-lifters.html). This was my first time bleeding lifters and how i was told to do it, I documented my process and it worked for me. But I do encourage others to share their experiences in the comments.
first!
Do you know if this works same for an evo3 4g63t in my eclipse and when can you go with an aftermarket cam with no additional upgrades I don’t need to change lifters or anything, and will it need a tune afterwards to adjust air fuel
Anything past a stage 1 cam setup. Will need modifications an a tune. I think with a stage one tho. Its just bolt on