I've always been amazed at the work you guys from Eastern Europe can do. I would never have thought to use gelatin as a mold to copy a part and make a wax pattern. This has to be one of the best examples of skill, experience, and cleverness replacing money i.ve ever seen.
Us people...we are not defined by our limitations...we are defined by our potentials. Creators of Trabant have my appreciation more than creators of Veyron.
This was due to the long years under the rule of the Soviet Union in eastern europe. In the West you could simply buy something, here you had to arrange it. They still do in Russia.
The difference between a parts changer and a true mechanic was demonstrated here. You are obviously on a remote site. I am a journeyman union Millwright . Respect to you!!
This is a genius fix, really. The gelatin mold probably cost 1/20th of casting silicone, and it worked well enough. Likewise using random candle wax for the casting. For the people down voting, I'm reminded of a quote of what an engineer is by a co-worker - an engineer is somebody that can do for $5 what any random person could do for $50. This thing isn't going to space...as long as it doesn't jam and the teeth don't strip, it's fine. Nice work.
@@prestigeworld-wide8292 i can see why it's older than injection molding, because it's limited to quantity. Great for homebrew then in these day and age. The use of Off-the-shelf material is quite innovative. Because they aren't purposely used for industrial and it is readily available.
My mother was a “Lost Wax Process" Bronze sculptor, and she did what was basically the same process at a bronze foundry to make her art. With one difference, She allowed the liquified bronze to displace the wax from the mold during the pour. Maybe it’s the size or more intricate detail, but she told me that purging the wax beforehand could cause air pockets to form, compromising the final form. Displacing the wax with the bronze directly helped to eliminate gaps. I’m not critiquing your process! Promise! I’m just curious. I’ve never met anyone else who does this. My mom was the only woman in the USA that did a sculpture that way. ( She passed away 5 years ago ) and I don’t think there are very many men left that do the process anymore either. I’m very impressed Most people cannot do what you just did by themselves in a fully equipped foundry. My jaw dropped. You get serious artistic street cred!
It is true, gelatin goes with everything! Excellent job of creation. What a legacy. Fire, metal, sparks, this video has everything. Love the heavy timber roof beams in your other videos & others will have to watch all to find this clue.
I assume that you live in what was once part of the Soviet Union? I remember a tale from long ago when some student friends were allowed to visit, driving their old (so probably mark 1) Land Rover , part way through the journey the engine ‘died’, but they were rescued by the local engineer who adapted an engine they had by connecting it to the Land Rover gearbox, so that my friends could drive home. I have been impressed by the skill and ingenuity of those engineers ever since!
в каждом русском живёт инженер, а всё из за расстояния страна большая, чтото случается и нужна помощь прямо сейчас, ждать подмоги можно но это долго а иногда и жизнь зависит от этого, решать проблему нужно немедленно, вот и приходится знать всё подряд
@@djyownder109 they won the war because hitler didnt listen to his generals. The german military would have been literally unbeatable if it wasnt for hitler throwing tantrums lol
4 ปีที่แล้ว +4
Thanks Mad Wheel. This is in the category of Things I Never Wanted to Know, But Was Forced To Find Out. What a Great job! Thanks for the education. I'd never have thought of doing it this way.
I've actually never cast something, but perhaps in the future a riser (tall column at exit of casting cavity to hold molten metal) would help with smaller details like those teeth. I believe the blunt teeth are due to shrinkage, and mostly surface tension of the molten aluminium. The tall column (if wide enough) will stay molten long enough to supply metal as the (presumably small enough) casting cools / shrinks and most importantly (if high enough) put the casting under higher pressure to help overcome the surface tension and force the metal closer to the walls - making a more dimensionally accurate end part. That is my reasoning anyway. Still it is cool idea you had there to extend the teeth as you did, and it appeared to work. After the lathe cleanup, it looked great.
First cast shows what happens when you don't fire plaster mold. there is chemical water embedded in the plaster, and needs firing to remove. When molten metal hits it, it boils and steam vapors are released, so pressure builds up internally and the metal can't hit the surface it needs to. If you are really silly and try this with much higher temperatures as in bronze and brass, you will likely get much more reactive and explosive results. I know this intimately from first hand experience. A small figure cast this way made it through the process, but it was riddled with air pockets like a sponge, and molten brass was spitting out of the mold for quite some time and distance. A case of run like shit until it stopped. I can estimate if the shape was bigger, and let's say was more undercut, it would have exploded fully.. a dangerous job to mess with without proper knowledge!
@@dougaldhendrick3497 I can appreciate what you're saying about water in the casting plaster as I joined a craft guild in Annapolis MD, Patuxent Lapidary Guild for a Lost Wax casting class. For some long lost reason, maybe the vacuum dome machine was not in service or being used by someone else and it could've been at closing time, nonetheless my mold had much porosity. And the last of 3 projects a ring with grain of wood and a 10X30 cabochon of reticulated quartz i.e. gold hair-sized rods in a clear base of quartz looks beautiful! Well the ring broke from bubbles in the mold and that was the last wax of that pattern inventory we had. I might try to repair the ring to make a new wax as it's not currently in any book I've looked at, probably old!
As someone who has done casting, I can tell you that you are right about the surface tension. It is very high for molten aluminum. A riser on the sprue and vent will build more pressure in the cast, forcing the aluminum into smaller details.
Чувак, ты сделал мой день! Все берут силикон, но нас не победить, мы используем желатин! Класс! Решение на поверхности, но блин, мешает зашоренность мышления.Я вот никогда бы не додумался взять его для изготовления модели. Спасибо!
Это спиженное видео, человек из Украины, канал у него называется "простые штуки " Даже на ведре имеется данная подпись 👍😂Ну или это его второй канал Англоязычный
You will be more surprised, when you find out that audi wother pump impeller made out plastic, that's why they break up, pritty much all new car is junk from the factory, they disine to fale at curtain mileage, not like good old engeeniring.
The plastic gear is a safety feature, it's a sacrificial part. The door as it is now might cut someone in half. Odds are, the part was manufactured for a Western European market with much milder ocean-influenced climate and actually lasts a considerable time there; but extreme temperatures of Russia aren't particularly kind to it. PA is the most common material for gears due to high toughness and abrasion resistance, but it gains it by absorbing water, it's strongly hygriscopic. And what happens when you freeze water? Well it doesn't behave quite like water in a container , there is some leeway due to how water molecules are suspended, so a bit below freezing point is still safe, but freeze it deeply enough, the polymer will get torn apart from the inside.
WOW! we print 3d and then melt out and fill with metal - but that requires pre-engineering a solid model - what a nice shortcut - thank you for both innovation and sharing!!!
@@LimabeanStudios When PLA catches fire, the smoke and fumes are low toxicity, while many plastics are exceptionally dangerous to burn. So you can burn PLA out safely rather than trying to melt it out.
My guess is that the plastic gear was there as a failsafe so that if excessive torque was applied to the device that the gear would break rather than burning out the motor or destroying whatever was blocking the gate.
An electrical motor should be protected with current limiter, and a detection of lock with electronics too. This plastic piece has no place here, except making maintenance activity for the maker of the system that will come every 18/20 months change quickly that piece and charge you. easy money.
@@vieuetcon Kind of depends on the quality of the manufacturer and torque of the motor. For example, the powerfeed on a mill is powerful enough to break a lot of things that aren't connected to it directly, so they use plastic gears so you don't break a tool or something.
This is an ancient technique I read about glass blowers would do back in Ancient Greece glad to see it still being used today, way cheaper than having a metal lathe
Very well done. Only thing is that very often, when plastic and metal parts are used for a mechanism, the plastic parts are usually designed to be the weak point that's cheap and easy to replace, that way the metal parts that are harder/more expensive to replace are less likely to break. No idea if that's the case with this, just something to keep in mind
That is true but seeing how the garage door has to work in freezing conditions where ice can accumulate on the tracks, this kind of cheap plastic gear seems... not ideal. To put it mildly. Cold temperature itself makes plastics brittle and compounded by any kind of resistance on the tracks seems like as a part that has to be changed constantly. Cold always makes everything more expensive and i would have went with some kind of load resistor that cuts power if things get stuck.
In most cases parts-breaking is a terrible way to give a safety feature/characteristic. There are other ways to do this that aren't self-destructive (clutch and/or stall sensing for the motor are two that can be used together - and cheap).
Спасибо, что научили меня самодельному силикону. Мне нужно попробовать это как недорогой литейный материал. Отличная работа! Thank you for teaching me homemade silicone. I need to try this as an inexpensive casting material. Great job!
Everyone: The original gear may have been made out of nylon in order to make sure it broke before damaging something else - like the hand or leg of whoever was unlucky enough to get caught on the sliding door! Great video non the less!
Skill and know-how...Is this a former Soviet country? Great job. It pays to be self-sufficient. The U.S. is going to soon learn to adapt to the changes ahead. Ingenuity is paramount.
as i thought. There is no way that american/european fatass would understand what is a feeling to make something by own hands, especially when it has purpouse or is needed
@@antares-the-one If you live in south america like me, you'll find very nasty ways of doing things as well.. but from a practical perspective, i'd go for the 2.59e spare part
Thats why they beat the germans, while the germans where mini producing super complex tanks with lots of complex processes... They where making thousand of tanks out of duct tape, melted pipes and wax xD
@@StoneCoolds Uh, German tanks were also rediculously more effective, to the point were the Tiger tank was pretty much invincible against the T34 and forcing the Soviets to use "sawed off" artillery guns in their tanks.
Great casting work I think you should be either in the jewellery or art business. On the other hand the plastic gear may have been intentionally the weak point in the system almost like the fuse in the wiring system. Metal gear equals no fuse. It's always nice to have a weak spot in the system that can break and be easily replaced.
I agree but the mechanical fuse should be cheap unlike full gear. Maybe the part that engages with the gear should be a stick of aluminium or even plastic? That would allow having full metal gear with full metal axle and the connection that transmits torque could be e.g. 40 mm long stick of 8 mm thick aluminium bar which would snap if too much torque is applied for whatever reason.
Rex Baird I don’t know about you, but I’ve had it all my life. Don’t tell me something can’t be done. I’ve have had engineers tell my stuff I did wasn’t supposed to work, but I made it work!
While gelatin was a brilliant move, if you want a slightly more expensive option and need to cast more than one copy, get yourself a six pack of home improvement store variety 100% silicone caulk and a small can of MEK. Mixing what you can use within 15 minutes or so, squirt in 1/4 to 1/2 the caulk tube at a time and an ounce (or your measurement system of choice) to thin the silicone, mix it up to where it's pourable, and pour as usual around your chosen part. In a few hours after the MEK evaporates, you'll have yourself a very fine detail mold. Not skin safe, but works fantastic for making parts, figure casts, etc.
@@bill3835 As long as the MEK fumes don't drift into the house, she'll be happy as pie. =) Compared to commercial brands like smooth-on, I suspect their molds will have a longer shelf life but this costs a quarter of a two part system. I made an entire silicone bodysuit that went over a lycra base that I molded on top of twill weave fiberglass (treated with the same silicone method to pick up the pattern for a flexible carbon look) and it worked great, plus I still have that suit after 5 years plus, and the treated fiberglass that I've used for gaskets and non-stick bases on other projects. You can also color the silicone with pigments as you would a commercial product. That whole suit probably cost me ~$50 in supplies, including the fiberglass, brushes, rollers, rubbermaid containers, etc. That much silicone in commercial grade would have come out well over $300, product only.
very good, the only problem is anything or someone gets stuck to the door/gate when it is closing, they or it will be crushed, because aluminium Gear Casting is not going to brake like the plastic gear did?
перчатки с дырками это нормально, наверняка новые лежат в ящике но брать их никак нельзя вить старые ещё не рассыпались, это не скупость а бережливость
@@daveharr7969 valid point! The cast gear will break sooner I suspect... Looking at its use,noise shouldn't be a huge factor though. Probably sneaky shit being as likely?
Well done video. Beautiful result. I thought about doing this, but I found a gear for my old garage door opener on EBay. It was considerably easier. I guess I'm just lazy.
What is the clever? How much cost that spare part? How much you earn per our? This is not clever this is stupid lost time! In my country we say priest with out job baptized goats.
@@borivojetravica569 When you live somewhere that takes 4-6 weeks to get a part + shipping costs its actually not wasted time, because not only has he replaced the gear but he replaced it with a metal one that's going to last his entire life preventing future breakdowns, so really it's actually justified time. 3D printing it out of metal would of been faster, or using a lathe and a drill press etc but who's got that kind of tooling and money laying around
Well done! The reason for that gear was made in delrin, tough, is that in moving gears a weak one is needed: if something goes wrong or is overstressed, the weakest one breaks, saving most expensive one (a geared rail costs more than a single gear). Now if something goes wrong the risk is breaking the rail...
@@phillhuddleston9445 it's is aluminum. if that was molten iron you would be seen yellow-white glow as the melting temperature for iron is insane high (about 3000°F, vs 1100°F of aluminum). also, there should be sparks randomly generated if was iron or steel. and you would never be able to melt it with that weak of a forge, you need an arc furnace.
As others have pointed out, having the plastic gear in there is an excellent design element for safety reasons. The problem is that manufacturers hardly ever advertise and have replacement parts (+ service) readily and easily available to consumers.
I played this video very much. You are a real master, thank you, hello from Russia, I really love DIY. Happy New Year, health and happiness to you and your loved ones
@@tyscof In short, designers will put a weak part into a mechanism intentionally for damage control. Like the operation rod in an M1 Garand. The purpose of this is to induce failure in a safe area / safe way to keep the damage limited to just that part. Instead of an engine burning out or metal gears being stripped, they would rather snap a plastic part that (after being broken) would relieve tension on everything else. The orbit part was a joke about built up pressure/torque being released violently sending things flying.
He compensates with that putty stuff at 2:45, as he mentions in reply to comment th-cam.com/video/v44bEsL3TCo/w-d-xo.html&google_comment_id=Ugwxi6tmk0cr1Ff8M0Z4AaABAg
контроллерьі обьічно имеют защиту по току, т.к. причиной заклинивания может бьіть что-угодно в независимости от материалов в трансмиссии. Полиамид - не худшая история, с алюминием автор погарячился - уже если лить, то из БРАЖ.
@@Heron31415 так бронза плавится при 1100, греть нужно больше. Ты видел его печку? Судя по красному свечению люминия там было около 800, он бы не смог её вылить. Да и ничего с ней не будет, там нету скоростей, юзается не суперчасто
@@antares-the-one тогда хотя бы ЦАМ - хватит градусов 400, если не путаю. Силумин (а тут именно силумин, чтобы пролить зубья) хрупкий - действительно может треснуть
@@Heron31415 он набросал то что было, не выбирал материал) но на счет цам с вами 100% согласен. Сегодня, благодаря вашему комменту, впервые прочитал и осознал существование данного сплава) ему нужно было бы расплавить штук 3 карба к62 от ижа, там должен быть этот сплав😀
MAD WHEEL привет. Классно получилось, но я не понял, а зачем оборачивали лентой на 2:39? Зубья сточились и увеличивали их размер или на случай будущей обработки или еще что?
Additional adhesive tape was glued on to compensate for shrinkage, since at the first attempt at casting the gear turned out to be smaller in diameter than the original, and due to shrinkage of the material.
I've used clear builder silicone (RTV one-part) mixed with a few drops of glycerine and a dab of food colouring to make casting moulds. The colouring is used to check whether the glycerine is fully mixed through.
how stupid is it to build a gear out of plastic for this machine, i mean they probably sell it for shit loads of money, but u made it better with ur own gear, now it will last for ever until the next plastic part will just break. Good work my friend, tnx for sharing.
because plastic is pretty much inmune to weather (unless very extreme temperatures are reached). and pretty decent wear resistance. so they work ok as long as you dont load them a lot or gets damaged with sunlight.
so if i understood that correctly you made a copy of the original gear out of something cheap and then created a mold around that new piece out of something that doesnt burn then poured melted metal into it replacing the first part you made as its burned up ?
That's right, I got a copy from the wax after I put it in gypsum and when the gypsum froze I melted the wax and poured it, and molten aluminum alloy was poured into an empty cavity in the gypsum.
@@mad_wheel that sounds awesome and all but I don't see how you would get all the fine details of holes and cavities in the middle of the part the outside would have the Sandy substance mold to it but what about the pieces in the middle of the part
As I like working with casting and making things, it always gets me to laugh -> Homemade. You only need lathe, mill, whole workshop and furnace :D Anyways - nice clip :)
A work full of mastery and wonderful artistic genius Thank you very much for the great effort. Please, I have a question regarding the silicone from which I made the first mold. Is the gelatin material that I used the one that is made of my jelly that contains sugar? Or raw jelly? Second, the ratio is 1: 1 for weight or volume, because glycerine is a liquid and the jelly is a powder. Thanks again. I wish you more success in your life and all your work.
Just a stupid question, and I understand this was a learning process, but would it not be easier to just make the wheel on the lathe, seeing as you have one?
I understand how you would cast with low temp metals but how would you melt and mold steel without damaging the part your using to make the steel hot or destroy your molds in the process ?
0:01;!Yes good one ,but when you work in the mines need to wait for spare parts up to two weeks losing your incentives no 3 d printer this is best option;!
Realy could use some comentary. Even if in another language. Petty easy to add subtitles when you do. Just what was the tape he used to rebuild the gears with? Was it just a wax strip?
Very cool video man! I’ve seen a few like this one, and you used slightly different materials to make your mold but it’s cool to see there are several ways to get the job done. Was the broken gear HMW plastic or Nylon 66? Just wondering. Manufacturers often make a part like that to be a weak link on purpose, I guess so it breaks or strips out instead of something else. At least you know now it ain’t the weak link anymore!
Aluminium would pretty much break or wear out the same. Maybe it will crush your arm or foot in the door now, before tooth melt or break. I don't think anyone in Easter Europe would care that much. the plastics is likely PLA. At best PA12 Nylon or ABS. Had such a gear in my milling machine Einhell MT-65 aka Minimill clone. Replaced it with a tothed belt and a §D printed PLA belt. The SLS laser printed PA12 nylon should have been better, but the print process heat in the closed shop microcontroller software is less than ideal. So that wore out quickly. This technique would have allowed to cast either plastics or alumium for a direct internal gearbox replacement. If it had niot been for the belt drive to be the better long term option anyways I would have gone for such a replacement cast as well. It is simple genius.
The plastic gear is in the system for opening and closing the gate for a reason. If the alarm stop system fails and the gate hits something (someone) the plastic gear breaks and the gate stop.
Very interesting molding! I will download the video! But you could have done as in pakistan or in india, that is to say, cast your part in sand or clay and pour directly into it! You would have lost less time! Tell me, are your molds in plaster?
Hitler: what do you need to build 1 tank Germany: presents a 780 pages memorandum with detailed industrial metodology Stanlin: what do you need to give me 1000 tanks? Russia: melted pipes duct tape and wax
NovorSec it’s funny yet very true. The soviets were focus on scale not quality. The literal quote is “quantity is a quality of its own”. Meaning that it doesn’t matter if your tank or plane or gun is the best. If you have 100,000 and they have 1,000. You win. By default you just won by having 100x more manpower. Less complicated and more utilitarian. Also slant armor and realizing that rounds don’t have to be stopped but just deflected.
Great job! But only one little suggestion: did you know about a special type of silicone - the silicone for moulding? I used it with with perfect results. This silicone could make easier first stage of the work. For ex. "condensation cure silicone moulding rubber"; producer: ACC Silicones (Italy).
I did a series of small aluminum casts using plaster, about the same mass as this part. The first cast problem could very well be some excess wax the other commenters mention, I don't know. But you can see in his first pour that the aluminum is bubbling? There is gas trying to escape...boiling wax? excess moisture in the plaster? Don't know. But he heats the mold for the second pour. This should eliminate the excess moisture. But there's another thing I notice: after heating, the mold is cracking. What I noticed in my own pours is that with pure plaster I got those rounded aluminum type-results and bubbling while pouring BUT if I mixed in sand, maybe 50%, the results were much better. I suspect the sand gives micro pathways for gas from any source (wax, water or even perhaps hydrogen Theen.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_gas_porosity) to escape and helps prevent the rounding and bubbling. The cracking of his mold might have also provided some micro routes for gas to escape.
Looks like tons of fun, but every time I ever tried an approach like that, the coefficient of thermal expansion killed it because by the time my part cooled, it was about 4% to 7% undersize.
Nice save, I worked in the family jewelry store, the lost wax method of making a mold works great, where there is will & time there is a way to save machines like this. I've been wondering how to cast aluminum, this shows me how. Thanks, great work.
When I was second year student, we did some kind of aluminium part in soil, soil-method(idk how is it called in english). It seemed to be weird but the process was cool. The funny part was that our lecturers were students obtaining their master's degree so firstly they hadn't heat aluminium to proper temperature so we've got it on second try. Nice job, keep up the good work! Now about lubrication - as I see it's blue, what lubricant do you use?
SAF-NSK In US probably is called Sand casting. Very common process. I think Aluminum is mostly done with Lost Wax process. We also used to have Stainless castings made with Lost Wax. At B/E Aerospace.
Good evening, I'm Renato, I live in Brazil, congratulations for your work. I would like to know which product you mixed with the gelatine to obtain the silicone. Thanks,
Super video, to have heated the mold before pouring the aluminum was a very good idea. I'm melting copper myself and it's going to serve me to have a cleaner result 👍
Very cool, and what a project. Imagine the steps you could save by scanning the part or drawing it in a solid modeling program, and 3D printing one. I'm in such a college class this semester. There are some pretty durable materials that could be used, especially with one of our resin printers. Our college also just received a 3D metal printer that is the cat's meow. Guess who's going make some stainless steel tools for a diving kit.
What's going on at 2:38? It looks like foam tape on used to enlarge the gear? And then something is poured in to dissolve it? I think I followed the other method tough. Thanks
Это припуск на токарную обработку. Добавляет двусторонний скотч, чтобы зубья были больше, чем на оригинале, чтобы потом сточить на токарном в размер. This is a turning allowance. Adds double-sided tape so that the teeth are larger than on the original, so that then grind on a lathe to size.(Google translate)
I've always been amazed at the work you guys from Eastern Europe can do. I would never have thought to use gelatin as a mold to copy a part and make a wax pattern. This has to be one of the best examples of skill, experience, and cleverness replacing money i.ve ever seen.
Thank you!)
Us people...we are not defined by our limitations...we are defined by our potentials. Creators of Trabant have my appreciation more than creators of Veyron.
@@elgur4512 We are all children of the same life-force...Each is given a bag of tools; shapeless mass, and the Book of Rules. Glory to God.
second that. Totally agree
This was due to the long years under the rule of the Soviet Union in eastern europe. In the West you could simply buy something, here you had to arrange it. They still do in Russia.
The difference between a parts changer and a true mechanic was demonstrated here. You are obviously on a remote site. I am a journeyman union Millwright . Respect to you!!
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This is a genius fix, really. The gelatin mold probably cost 1/20th of casting silicone, and it worked well enough. Likewise using random candle wax for the casting. For the people down voting, I'm reminded of a quote of what an engineer is by a co-worker - an engineer is somebody that can do for $5 what any random person could do for $50. This thing isn't going to space...as long as it doesn't jam and the teeth don't strip, it's fine. Nice work.
thank!
Excellent work, your finished gear looks fantastic, and your casting techniques are on point. Never stop tinkering!
This is the most innovative way i have ever seen on casting a metal gear. Bloody hell, genius!
Innovative????? This is called lost wax casting and its older than injection molding.
@@prestigeworld-wide8292 i can see why it's older than injection molding, because it's limited to quantity. Great for homebrew then in these day and age.
The use of Off-the-shelf material is quite innovative. Because they aren't purposely used for industrial and it is readily available.
Stryker
My mother was a “Lost Wax Process" Bronze sculptor, and she did what was basically the same process at a bronze foundry to make her art. With one difference, She allowed the liquified bronze to displace the wax from the mold during the pour. Maybe it’s the size or more intricate detail, but she told me that purging the wax beforehand could cause air pockets to form, compromising the final form. Displacing the wax with the bronze directly helped to eliminate gaps. I’m not critiquing your process! Promise! I’m just curious. I’ve never met anyone else who does this. My mom was the only woman in the USA that did a sculpture that way. ( She passed away 5 years ago ) and I don’t think there are very many men left that do the process anymore either. I’m very impressed Most people cannot do what you just did by themselves in a fully equipped foundry. My jaw dropped. You get serious artistic street cred!
God's Blessings on your Mother the Artist and Teacher...and Stevie the good student.
Georgia Bunn made the bronze statues in Joseph, Oregon, she's still alive too
I really am impressed. Good mold making skills, good ingenuity, great finished result! I had to revisit and rewatch. There is so much to learn here.
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It is true, gelatin goes with everything! Excellent job of creation. What a legacy.
Fire, metal, sparks, this video has everything. Love the heavy timber roof beams in your other videos & others will have to watch all to find this clue.
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I assume that you live in what was once part of the Soviet Union?
I remember a tale from long ago when some student friends were allowed to visit, driving their old (so probably mark 1) Land Rover , part way through the journey the engine ‘died’, but they were rescued by the local engineer who adapted an engine they had by connecting it to the Land Rover gearbox, so that my friends could drive home. I have been impressed by the skill and ingenuity of those engineers ever since!
в каждом русском живёт инженер, а всё из за расстояния страна большая, чтото случается и нужна помощь прямо сейчас, ждать подмоги можно но это долго а иногда и жизнь зависит от этого, решать проблему нужно немедленно, вот и приходится знать всё подряд
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And that’s probably how they won the war, thos eguys manahed to spam the heck out of factorys to make t 34s
@@djyownder109 they won the war because hitler didnt listen to his generals. The german military would have been literally unbeatable if it wasnt for hitler throwing tantrums lol
Thanks Mad Wheel. This is in the category of Things I Never Wanted to Know, But Was Forced To Find Out. What a Great job! Thanks for the education. I'd never have thought of doing it this way.
I've actually never cast something, but perhaps in the future a riser (tall column at exit of casting cavity to hold molten metal) would help with smaller details like those teeth. I believe the blunt teeth are due to shrinkage, and mostly surface tension of the molten aluminium. The tall column (if wide enough) will stay molten long enough to supply metal as the (presumably small enough) casting cools / shrinks and most importantly (if high enough) put the casting under higher pressure to help overcome the surface tension and force the metal closer to the walls - making a more dimensionally accurate end part. That is my reasoning anyway. Still it is cool idea you had there to extend the teeth as you did, and it appeared to work. After the lathe cleanup, it looked great.
First cast shows what happens when you don't fire plaster mold. there is chemical water embedded in the plaster, and needs firing to remove. When molten metal hits it, it boils and steam vapors are released, so pressure builds up internally and the metal can't hit the surface it needs to. If you are really silly and try this with much higher temperatures as in bronze and brass, you will likely get much more reactive and explosive results. I know this intimately from first hand experience. A small figure cast this way made it through the process, but it was riddled with air pockets like a sponge, and molten brass was spitting out of the mold for quite some time and distance. A case of run like shit until it stopped.
I can estimate if the shape was bigger, and let's say was more undercut, it would have exploded fully.. a dangerous job to mess with without proper knowledge!
@@dougaldhendrick3497 I can appreciate what you're saying about water in the casting plaster as I joined a craft guild in Annapolis MD, Patuxent Lapidary Guild for a Lost Wax casting class. For some long lost reason, maybe the vacuum dome machine was not in service or being used by someone else and it could've been at closing time, nonetheless my mold had much porosity. And the last of 3 projects a ring with grain of wood and a 10X30 cabochon of reticulated quartz i.e. gold hair-sized rods in a clear base of quartz looks beautiful! Well the ring broke from bubbles in the mold and that was the last wax of that pattern inventory we had. I might try to repair the ring to make a new wax as it's not currently in any book I've looked at, probably old!
As someone who has done casting, I can tell you that you are right about the surface tension. It is very high for molten aluminum. A riser on the sprue and vent will build more pressure in the cast, forcing the aluminum into smaller details.
100% this. If he would have used a riser the gear most likely would have come out perfect
Fantastic job. I can't believe a gate mechanism like that had a plastic gear in it...Pretty sure the manufacturer knew exactly what they were doing.
Чувак, ты сделал мой день! Все берут силикон, но нас не победить, мы используем желатин! Класс! Решение на поверхности, но блин, мешает зашоренность мышления.Я вот никогда бы не додумался взять его для изготовления модели. Спасибо!
Так он не Русский, наш человек сделал бы проще. Токарь Дядя Вася за пузырь это сделал бы лучше и быстрее.
Я только дошёл до момента где он на токарном доводил деталь. 🤣🤣🤦♂️🤦♂️ Так какого черта ты ебался если есть токарный станок.
Это спиженное видео, человек из Украины, канал у него называется "простые штуки " Даже на ведре имеется данная подпись 👍😂Ну или это его второй канал Англоязычный
@@wydr2053 косозубую шестерню на токарном?
Awesome work sir. I can't believe they designed a door opener with a plastic gear! Excellently made gear, fruit pectin worked out suprisingly well!
You will be more surprised, when you find out that audi wother pump impeller made out plastic, that's why they break up, pritty much all new car is junk from the factory, they disine to fale at curtain mileage, not like good old engeeniring.
The plastic gear is a safety feature, it's a sacrificial part. The door as it is now might cut someone in half.
Odds are, the part was manufactured for a Western European market with much milder ocean-influenced climate and actually lasts a considerable time there; but extreme temperatures of Russia aren't particularly kind to it. PA is the most common material for gears due to high toughness and abrasion resistance, but it gains it by absorbing water, it's strongly hygriscopic. And what happens when you freeze water? Well it doesn't behave quite like water in a container , there is some leeway due to how water molecules are suspended, so a bit below freezing point is still safe, but freeze it deeply enough, the polymer will get torn apart from the inside.
Gelatin + Glycerin..
Absolutely cheaper than rtv silicone..
Thanks for sharing the knowledge..
🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏
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WOW! we print 3d and then melt out and fill with metal - but that requires pre-engineering a solid model - what a nice shortcut - thank you for both innovation and sharing!!!
What filament do you 3d print before casting? Or do you use resin?
@@hothmobile100 Really wish this question got answered!
@@hothmobile100 pla is very commonly used for this because of it's low melting point
@@LimabeanStudios When PLA catches fire, the smoke and fumes are low toxicity, while many plastics are exceptionally dangerous to burn. So you can burn PLA out safely rather than trying to melt it out.
My guess is that the plastic gear was there as a failsafe so that if excessive torque was applied to the device that the gear would break rather than burning out the motor or destroying whatever was blocking the gate.
Yep. It's like a fuse in an electrical circuit blown. It, the plastic gear, was designed to go first and least expensive to replace.
metal gear with key is much better. Don't have to replace gear... just key.
An electrical motor should be protected with current limiter, and a detection of lock with electronics too. This plastic piece has no place here, except making maintenance activity for the maker of the system that will come every 18/20 months change quickly that piece and charge you. easy money.
@@vieuetcon Kind of depends on the quality of the manufacturer and torque of the motor. For example, the powerfeed on a mill is powerful enough to break a lot of things that aren't connected to it directly, so they use plastic gears so you don't break a tool or something.
when you can afford all those machine
His rebuild was BETTER than the original! Nice work!
This is an ancient technique I read about glass blowers would do back in Ancient Greece glad to see it still being used today, way cheaper than having a metal lathe
Very well done. Only thing is that very often, when plastic and metal parts are used for a mechanism, the plastic parts are usually designed to be the weak point that's cheap and easy to replace, that way the metal parts that are harder/more expensive to replace are less likely to break. No idea if that's the case with this, just something to keep in mind
That is true but seeing how the garage door has to work in freezing conditions where ice can accumulate on the tracks, this kind of cheap plastic gear seems... not ideal. To put it mildly. Cold temperature itself makes plastics brittle and compounded by any kind of resistance on the tracks seems like as a part that has to be changed constantly.
Cold always makes everything more expensive and i would have went with some kind of load resistor that cuts power if things get stuck.
In most cases parts-breaking is a terrible way to give a safety feature/characteristic. There are other ways to do this that aren't self-destructive (clutch and/or stall sensing for the motor are two that can be used together - and cheap).
Спасибо, что научили меня самодельному силикону.
Мне нужно попробовать это как недорогой литейный материал. Отличная работа!
Thank you for teaching me homemade silicone.
I need to try this as an inexpensive casting material. Great job!
About the homemade silicone casting recipe, could you put in English subtitles for this part?
Extremely interesting - but very labour intensive with so many more steps than I was expecting. Thanks for sharing.
AS WITH PANCAKES, THE FIRST ONE NEVER COMES OUT PERFECT !!!
Great video btw, good job!!
Hi there MAD WHEEL that gear casting is apsolutely Amazing,well done & thank you for your videos,that was Excellent my friend...
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I have not seen this kind of craftmanship since the 1970s.....
Extraordinary.........
Everyone: The original gear may have been made out of nylon in order to make sure it broke before damaging something else - like the hand or leg of whoever was unlucky enough to get caught on the sliding door! Great video non the less!
now we can see dogs and children cut in half by a monster gear
Good Job and Well Done. That home made metal gear is much better Than that piece of plastic junk it replaced my hats off to you sir!
Really good! Love the gelatin and glycerin idea. Much cheaper than RTV silicone. Thanks!
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Skill and know-how...Is this a former Soviet country? Great job. It pays to be self-sufficient. The U.S. is going to soon learn to adapt to the changes ahead. Ingenuity is paramount.
Well done Mate! Very resourceful and a well made video. Greetings from Australia
You know when someone is good when they make it look easy to do :) Nicely done man
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spare part: 2,59€
Knowledge gained while casting a gearwheel: priceless
as i thought. There is no way that american/european fatass would understand what is a feeling to make something by own hands, especially when it has purpouse or is needed
@@antares-the-one If you live in south america like me, you'll find very nasty ways of doing things as well.. but from a practical perspective, i'd go for the 2.59e spare part
@@antares-the-one yea! and the others do not have internet and still exchange 1.44MB floppies, right ?
@@antares-the-one ?
@@peteraugust5295 I was thinking the same. @Antares what do you mean?
Nicely done. Makes me wonder how much you've learned since 2018. I'll check you out!
This is the dirtiest, grungiest, way of casting I've seen in a long time. But good work man. I never would have thought of gelatin.
Jay Bee malgres ce ne pas solide
Thats why they beat the germans, while the germans where mini producing super complex tanks with lots of complex processes...
They where making thousand of tanks out of duct tape, melted pipes and wax xD
NovorSec German tanks were 4 times better than American tanks. But the Americans had 5.
@@StoneCoolds Uh, German tanks were also rediculously more effective, to the point were the Tiger tank was pretty much invincible against the T34 and forcing the Soviets to use "sawed off" artillery guns in their tanks.
@@StoneCoolds With manual gearboxes and Tractor controls for simplicity.
You are a true craftsman my friend
I enjoyed it
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Great casting work I think you should be either in the jewellery or art business. On the other hand the plastic gear may have been intentionally the weak point in the system almost like the fuse in the wiring system. Metal gear equals no fuse. It's always nice to have a weak spot in the system that can break and be easily replaced.
I agree but the mechanical fuse should be cheap unlike full gear. Maybe the part that engages with the gear should be a stick of aluminium or even plastic? That would allow having full metal gear with full metal axle and the connection that transmits torque could be e.g. 40 mm long stick of 8 mm thick aluminium bar which would snap if too much torque is applied for whatever reason.
By golly it worked. I was looking for an easier way to cast aluminum. Thanks great video.
well done, one less broken thing, one less thing in the trash.
I'm pretty sure the broken nylon gear ended up in the trash after the completion of the casting ....
@@demef758 better than the whole thing going in the bin
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Excellent video!
Congratulations on the fix. Brilliantly done.
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Russians always inspire me. They have that Get er Done attitude :)
What happened to America 😭
Rex Baird I don’t know about you, but I’ve had it all my life. Don’t tell me something can’t be done. I’ve have had engineers tell my stuff I did wasn’t supposed to work, but I made it work!
P
@Nadia Brooks consumers sitting on their fat ass watching TH-cam videos not making shit with their in unremarkable lifes
you know you just quoted an American?
You gave my life new meaning to purchasing cheap crap.
Gelatin and Glycerin, Thank you! That's a great idea.
Top video but did you increase the diameter with the tape on the gears teeth
It was required to compensate for shrinkage
While gelatin was a brilliant move, if you want a slightly more expensive option and need to cast more than one copy, get yourself a six pack of home improvement store variety 100% silicone caulk and a small can of MEK. Mixing what you can use within 15 minutes or so, squirt in 1/4 to 1/2 the caulk tube at a time and an ounce (or your measurement system of choice) to thin the silicone, mix it up to where it's pourable, and pour as usual around your chosen part. In a few hours after the MEK evaporates, you'll have yourself a very fine detail mold.
Not skin safe, but works fantastic for making parts, figure casts, etc.
That actually sounds easier than using gelatin on top of your stove (and the wife would be happier)
@@bill3835 As long as the MEK fumes don't drift into the house, she'll be happy as pie. =) Compared to commercial brands like smooth-on, I suspect their molds will have a longer shelf life but this costs a quarter of a two part system. I made an entire silicone bodysuit that went over a lycra base that I molded on top of twill weave fiberglass (treated with the same silicone method to pick up the pattern for a flexible carbon look) and it worked great, plus I still have that suit after 5 years plus, and the treated fiberglass that I've used for gaskets and non-stick bases on other projects. You can also color the silicone with pigments as you would a commercial product. That whole suit probably cost me ~$50 in supplies, including the fiberglass, brushes, rollers, rubbermaid containers, etc. That much silicone in commercial grade would have come out well over $300, product only.
You can melt and reuse the gelatin for years to make an infinite amount of molds.
@@C-M-E You can use the microwave in a different room than the kitchen? Shhh! My wife might hear you!
very good, the only problem is anything or someone gets stuck to the door/gate when it is closing, they or it will be crushed, because aluminium Gear Casting is not going to brake like the plastic gear did?
The device is provided with several electronic and optical fuses in order to prevent such a situation.
You know you're in Russia when your fire resistant gloves have holes in the fingers. Hardcore!
ha ha
That's every metal shop I've been in. I'm from the US
So Ivan Vanko was based on a real person?
To be fair, the holes are very small and safe! xD
перчатки с дырками это нормально, наверняка новые лежат в ящике но брать их никак нельзя вить старые ещё не рассыпались, это не скупость а бережливость
¿Qué tipo de glicerina utilizan para el proyecto del molde?
What kind of glycerin did you used to get the mold?
Compré glicerina en la farmacia.
Good video, the surprising part was the fact the motor had a plastic cog to begin with
Nylon 66
Designed that way I suppose. Somethings got to give.
Mountaindiver,
Good call,thought I'd missed something!
Nylon is used to keep the noise down.
@@daveharr7969 valid point! The cast gear will break sooner I suspect... Looking at its use,noise shouldn't be a huge factor though. Probably sneaky shit being as likely?
Какая гадость эта ваша заливная шестерня!))
А если честно, то необычная и крутая методика 👍
Well done video. Beautiful result. I thought about doing this, but I found a gear for my old garage door opener on EBay. It was considerably easier. I guess I'm just lazy.
youre kitchen utensils thank you
Isn't the gear nylon for a reason? Could it be the weak link in the gearbox for a reason? Other than that...great work!
Gelatin... I never would have thought of that. Clever.
Looks like farm boy ingenuity
What is the clever? How much cost that spare part? How much you earn per our? This is not clever this is stupid lost time! In my country we say priest with out job baptized goats.
@@borivojetravica569 When you live somewhere that takes 4-6 weeks to get a part + shipping costs its actually not wasted time, because not only has he replaced the gear but he replaced it with a metal one that's going to last his entire life preventing future breakdowns, so really it's actually justified time. 3D printing it out of metal would of been faster, or using a lathe and a drill press etc but who's got that kind of tooling and money laying around
Try replacing a 40 year old cassette deck nylon gear when they quit making them. Hard to toss a top notch deck for a little cracked gear.
Gelatin only worked good because he had a hardener with Russian writing
So, it needs 200g glicerin (2x100g) to 90g (6x15) gelatin. Thank you.
Well done! The reason for that gear was made in delrin, tough, is that in moving gears a weak one is needed: if something goes wrong or is overstressed, the weakest one breaks, saving most expensive one (a geared rail costs more than a single gear). Now if something goes wrong the risk is breaking the rail...
The cast iron one while being stronger than the gear made of plastic is still by an order of magnitude the weaker gear of those 2.
@@MrTylerNinja it's not iron looks like ally easily sawed etc. Correct my if I'm wrong
@@emrage I'm guessing it's aluminum.
@@phillhuddleston9445 it's is aluminum. if that was molten iron you would be seen yellow-white glow as the melting temperature for iron is insane high (about 3000°F, vs 1100°F of aluminum). also, there should be sparks randomly generated if was iron or steel. and you would never be able to melt it with that weak of a forge, you need an arc furnace.
@@phillhuddleston9445 Yep, that's almost certainly aluminum. Could be some kind of zinc based pot-metal, but it melts and machines like Al.
Excellent work, could you say what are the elements you use, please? because i don't speak russian
To make homemade silicone, I used gelatin and glycerin in a 1: 1 ratio, made from ordinary stucco, and used candle wax for the model.
@@mad_wheel Thaks a lot 👍👏👏👏
That is the kind of cool stuff I like to see.⚙️
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That is redicoulous that a motor designed to move a giant metal door would have plastic gears! Well done man!
Such a simple recipe - gelatin and glycerin! I was surprised that it held up as well as it did without tearing!
O
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As others have pointed out, having the plastic gear in there is an excellent design element for safety reasons. The problem is that manufacturers hardly ever advertise and have replacement parts (+ service) readily and easily available to consumers.
“Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.” Saw this on a toilet paper dispenser!
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I played this video very much. You are a real master, thank you, hello from Russia, I really love DIY. Happy New Year, health and happiness to you and your loved ones
careful, that plastic gear might have been an intentional weak link. with two metal gears it might go into orbit
That's what I was thinking.
can you elaborate
@@tyscof In short, designers will put a weak part into a mechanism intentionally for damage control.
Like the operation rod in an M1 Garand. The purpose of this is to induce failure in a safe area / safe way to keep the damage limited to just that part.
Instead of an engine burning out or metal gears being stripped, they would rather snap a plastic part that (after being broken) would relieve tension on everything else.
The orbit part was a joke about built up pressure/torque being released violently sending things flying.
@@Paid2Win Why not just use a spring tension tang or sprang clutch type "torque release" mechanism , plastic is CHEAPER.
@@joew7013 Yeah, easy to say from where you're sitting I am sure.
amazing work! but during casting don't we need to account for shrinkage? and don't the teeth need to be hardened?
He compensates with that putty stuff at 2:45, as he mentions in reply to comment th-cam.com/video/v44bEsL3TCo/w-d-xo.html&google_comment_id=Ugwxi6tmk0cr1Ff8M0Z4AaABAg
Следующей починкой так понимаю будет мотор, т.к. при клине сломается не шестерня, а погорят катушки в моторе. Но в целом отличная работа
контроллерьі обьічно имеют защиту по току, т.к. причиной заклинивания может бьіть что-угодно в независимости от материалов в трансмиссии. Полиамид - не худшая история, с алюминием автор погарячился - уже если лить, то из БРАЖ.
Следующей починкой будет отливка новой алюминиевой шестерни через месяц потому что эта сотрется о ту стальную с которой она в паре
@@Heron31415 так бронза плавится при 1100, греть нужно больше. Ты видел его печку? Судя по красному свечению люминия там было около 800, он бы не смог её вылить. Да и ничего с ней не будет, там нету скоростей, юзается не суперчасто
@@antares-the-one тогда хотя бы ЦАМ - хватит градусов 400, если не путаю. Силумин (а тут именно силумин, чтобы пролить зубья) хрупкий - действительно может треснуть
@@Heron31415 он набросал то что было, не выбирал материал) но на счет цам с вами 100% согласен. Сегодня, благодаря вашему комменту, впервые прочитал и осознал существование данного сплава) ему нужно было бы расплавить штук 3 карба к62 от ижа, там должен быть этот сплав😀
MAD WHEEL привет. Классно получилось, но я не понял, а зачем оборачивали лентой на 2:39? Зубья сточились и увеличивали их размер или на случай будущей обработки или еще что?
Additional adhesive tape was glued on to compensate for shrinkage, since at the first attempt at casting the gear turned out to be smaller in diameter than the original, and due to shrinkage of the material.
I've used clear builder silicone (RTV one-part) mixed with a few drops of glycerine and a dab of food colouring to make casting moulds.
The colouring is used to check whether the glycerine is fully mixed through.
Nice!
Excellent Video and Great Job - I've had the same problem. Thank you
This is how a real man does it
)))
How did that OEM put a plastic gear for such kind. However, great work!!
how stupid is it to build a gear out of plastic for this machine, i mean they probably sell it for shit loads of money, but u made it better with ur own gear, now it will last for ever until the next plastic part will just break.
Good work my friend, tnx for sharing.
because plastic is pretty much inmune to weather (unless very extreme temperatures are reached). and pretty decent wear resistance. so they work ok as long as you dont load them a lot or gets damaged with sunlight.
so if i understood that correctly you made a copy of the original gear out of something cheap and then created a mold around that new piece out of something that doesnt burn then poured melted metal into it replacing the first part you made as its burned up ?
That's right, I got a copy from the wax after I put it in gypsum and when the gypsum froze I melted the wax and poured it, and molten aluminum alloy was poured into an empty cavity in the gypsum.
@@mad_wheel that sounds awesome and all but I don't see how you would get all the fine details of holes and cavities in the middle of the part the outside would have the Sandy substance mold to it but what about the pieces in the middle of the part
@@mad_wheel if the piece has Chambers in the inside that doesn't directly touch the Sandy substance then how could it mold to it
As I like working with casting and making things, it always gets me to laugh -> Homemade. You only need lathe, mill, whole workshop and furnace :D
Anyways - nice clip :)
Not always, no. Some of us still remember our sawing and filing skills.
Can Aluminium support friction and stress like technyl and bronze ?
More than three years later, this aluminum gear connection is still working.)
@@mad_wheel oh excellent
Видео с канала простые штуки, и ссылку на канал не дал!
Вот почему гипс русский
A work full of mastery and wonderful artistic genius Thank you very much for the great effort. Please, I have a question regarding the silicone from which I made the first mold. Is the gelatin material that I used the one that is made of my jelly that contains sugar? Or raw jelly? Second, the ratio is 1: 1 for weight or volume, because glycerine is a liquid and the jelly is a powder. Thanks again. I wish you more success in your life and all your work.
you need raw jelly without sugar, weight ratio 1: 1.
@@mad_wheel Thank you very much for the reply and benefit
Just a stupid question, and I understand this was a learning process, but would it not be easier to just make the wheel on the lathe, seeing as you have one?
A gear wheel, and even with a slanting tooth, you overestimate the lathe a little, for this you need at least a fraser))
I understand how you would cast with low temp metals but how would you melt and mold steel without damaging the part your using to make the steel hot or destroy your molds in the process ?
Of course, the forms are destroyed in the process, and serve only once.
@@mad_wheel Its more the furnace im worried about damaging when trying to get the steel to temp
@@bow2me26 trước khi đúc kim loại, để khuôn không bị nứt, hãy sấy khô 400 độ và cũng tuân thủ các biện pháp phòng ngừa an toàn
0:01;!Yes good one ,but when you work in the mines need to wait for spare parts up to two weeks losing your incentives no 3 d printer this is best option;!
Excellent work ! 👍
Good work, plus amazing music, is it Jimmy Hendricks ?
Realy could use some comentary. Even if in another language. Petty easy to add subtitles when you do. Just what was the tape he used to rebuild the gears with? Was it just a wax strip?
Perhaps I will do so, but unfortunately I need to allocate my free time for this.
Very cool video man! I’ve seen a few like this one, and you used slightly different materials to make your mold but it’s cool to see there are several ways to get the job done. Was the broken gear HMW plastic or Nylon 66? Just wondering. Manufacturers often make a part like that to be a weak link on purpose, I guess so it breaks or strips out instead of something else. At least you know now it ain’t the weak link anymore!
Aluminium would pretty much break or wear out the same. Maybe it will crush your arm or foot in the door now, before tooth melt or break. I don't think anyone in Easter Europe would care that much. the plastics is likely PLA. At best PA12 Nylon or ABS. Had such a gear in my milling machine Einhell MT-65 aka Minimill clone. Replaced it with a tothed belt and a §D printed PLA belt. The SLS laser printed PA12 nylon should have been better, but the print process heat in the closed shop microcontroller software is less than ideal. So that wore out quickly. This technique would have allowed to cast either plastics or alumium for a direct internal gearbox replacement. If it had niot been for the belt drive to be the better long term option anyways I would have gone for such a replacement cast as well. It is simple genius.
The plastic gear is in the system for opening and closing the gate for a reason. If the alarm stop system fails and the gate hits something (someone) the plastic gear breaks and the gate stop.
The device has several redundant security systems, the electrical load of the engine is monitored, and optical control is also present.
@@mad_wheel Planes have many security systems but still fall from the sky.
Some places I've seen would have finished the repair where the pieces were glued together and reassembled from there.
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Very interesting molding!
I will download the video!
But you could have done as in pakistan or in india, that is to say, cast your part in sand or clay and pour directly into it!
You would have lost less time!
Tell me, are your molds in plaster?
That's right, my casts in plaster. Yes, I heard about sand, but I have not yet reached this level of skill.
@@mad_wheel sand and clay mix!
on youtube, I saw the videos of the casts made by the Hindus and Pakistanis, and, I think it was just sand!
Hitler: what do you need to build 1 tank
Germany: presents a 780 pages memorandum with detailed industrial metodology
Stanlin: what do you need to give me 1000 tanks?
Russia: melted pipes duct tape and wax
NovorSec it’s funny yet very true. The soviets were focus on scale not quality.
The literal quote is “quantity is a quality of its own”. Meaning that it doesn’t matter if your tank or plane or gun is the best. If you have 100,000 and they have 1,000. You win. By default you just won by having 100x more manpower.
Less complicated and more utilitarian. Also slant armor and realizing that rounds don’t have to be stopped but just deflected.
@Joe Biden's Chain Do you remember Hillary Clinton's claim of "landing under sniper fire" in Bosnia?
Great job!
But only one little suggestion: did you know about a special type of silicone - the silicone for moulding? I used it with with perfect results. This silicone could make easier first stage of the work. For ex. "condensation cure silicone moulding rubber"; producer: ACC Silicones (Italy).
Thank you for the information! In my experience, I tried to use materials at hand)
What happend to the first casting? It looked terrible
That wax not melting properly
It was probably to display why you need to enhance the teeth in the second mold
@@bryantb3391 no mate,it because still any wax inside moulding,i do metal casting to,and that a common.
That why he burn that mold in second work
I did a series of small aluminum casts using plaster, about the same mass as this part. The first cast problem could very well be some excess wax the other commenters mention, I don't know. But you can see in his first pour that the aluminum is bubbling? There is gas trying to escape...boiling wax? excess moisture in the plaster? Don't know. But he heats the mold for the second pour. This should eliminate the excess moisture. But there's another thing I notice: after heating, the mold is cracking. What I noticed in my own pours is that with pure plaster I got those rounded aluminum type-results and bubbling while pouring BUT if I mixed in sand, maybe 50%, the results were much better. I suspect the sand gives micro pathways for gas from any source (wax, water or even perhaps hydrogen Theen.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_gas_porosity) to escape and helps prevent the rounding and bubbling. The cracking of his mold might have also provided some micro routes for gas to escape.
Very cool video.....im kinda wondering if it was plastic for a reason
Looks like tons of fun, but every time I ever tried an approach like that, the coefficient of thermal expansion killed it because by the time my part cooled, it was about 4% to 7% undersize.
Try coating the original part in many layers of paint before you make the mold, and make sure you have a big riser to suck metal from as it cools
Nice save, I worked in the family jewelry store, the lost wax method of making a mold works great, where there is will & time there is a way to save machines like this. I've been wondering how to cast aluminum, this shows me how. Thanks, great work.
@glyn hodges Thanks Glyn.
When I was second year student, we did some kind of aluminium part in soil, soil-method(idk how is it called in english). It seemed to be weird but the process was cool. The funny part was that our lecturers were students obtaining their master's degree so firstly they hadn't heat aluminium to proper temperature so we've got it on second try.
Nice job, keep up the good work! Now about lubrication - as I see it's blue, what lubricant do you use?
www.mobil.com/en/industrial/lubricants/products/mobilgrease-xhp-681-mine
www.mobil.com/en/industrial/lubricants/product-series/mobilgrease-xhp-220-series
SAF-NSK In US probably is called Sand casting. Very common process. I think Aluminum is mostly done with Lost Wax process. We also used to have Stainless castings made with Lost Wax. At B/E Aerospace.
Good evening, I'm Renato, I live in Brazil, congratulations for your work. I would like to know which product you mixed with the gelatine to obtain the silicone. Thanks,
glycerin from the pharmacy
@@mad_wheel Okay, thank you for your attention. Thanks.
Great job, you’re a craftsman
VERY nice job but i'm not sure to your metal quality in the time, but BRAVO.
It would be better with English subtitles so we can see what he makes the molds out of, but its a good video.
Super video, to have heated the mold before pouring the aluminum was a very good idea. I'm melting copper myself and it's going to serve me to have a cleaner result 👍
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Part of the reason for heating the mold is to melt the wax and pour it out to make room for the metal.
Very cool, and what a project. Imagine the steps you could save by scanning the part or drawing it in a solid modeling program, and 3D printing one. I'm in such a college class this semester. There are some pretty durable materials that could be used, especially with one of our resin printers. Our college also just received a 3D metal printer that is the cat's meow. Guess who's going make some stainless steel tools for a diving kit.
What's going on at 2:38? It looks like foam tape on used to enlarge the gear? And then something is poured in to dissolve it? I think I followed the other method tough. Thanks
Это припуск на токарную обработку. Добавляет двусторонний скотч, чтобы зубья были больше, чем на оригинале, чтобы потом сточить на токарном в размер.
This is a turning allowance. Adds double-sided tape so that the teeth are larger than on the original, so that then grind on a lathe to size.(Google translate)
@@Pren66 well done Sir
Muy bueno Maestro, gracias por compartir .
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