I can vouch for the Zazen1 and the Zazen2! They have made the biggest difference in my set up. Have a heavy wooden cabinet that was giving off a horrible resonance and these have saved me from so much stress of trying to figure out what was wrong.
I use an HRS platform under my turntable. I have gone from a VPI Prime Signature at 70 lbs, a Rega Planar 10 at less than 10lbs and now my favorite, a fully restored Micro Seiki RX-5000 at 100 lbs plus 35 lb motor assembly. The compliance is, of course, related to the weight and I have replaced the feet with the appropriate compliance ones to provide proper damping for each weight range. All worked weel with the VPI most in need of help with structural isolation.
Great video. Although not dabbling too much with audio too much recently, I did in the past. What did I discover? One of the first vibration mods was the offer of a replacement shelf of my old Sound Organisation shelf on my SO table by the HI-Fi News magazine. It sat under my series 2 Roksan Xerses turntable. What a difference! Now I think your comment about does it sound better or different is very wise! If I had a bright sounding system I might have thought it not so good. I would say that what you use is what you get. What I mean by that is the HI-FI News shelf seemed more ridged and so I got a brighter, tighter sound. This led me to put spikes into the stand and dispense with a shelf-later discovering that Roksan had a stand that did this also although maybe for adjustment underneath the deck. What was the sound effect? Well a much more dynamic sound- tighter and brighter but at the expense of some thinness ie vocals not so warm. That makes me think these things are a bit of a juggling act and fine tuning but had to add if you stick your turntable on top of a heavy old piece of furniture anything might be an improvement. My thoughts from experimentation( right or wrong) are-I think you need to keep a turntable as solid as possible whilst minimising vibration feedback considering the microscopic grooves of a record. With amplifiers the problem is somewhat less complex and so sorbathane feet work wonders under a valve amp. I’m not sure I would want to pay £1000s when you can buy a lump of blubber much cheaper-is the special shelf worth it-I can’t say but from the differences I’ve heard-may be a better turntable may be in order. Just a thought though-if you think it an absolute science-why didn’t the turntable manufacturer strap one of these shelves underneath their turntables and call it their premium model? Perhaps some do 🙂
For my Turntable I use IKEA APTITLIG board which is a weighty nice looking and doing the job sitting on sorbothane feet . Suitable for my vintage TT but I’ll probably get it upgraded once I upgrade my TT. Thanks for this great channel , always looking forward for your next video 🙏
I have the exact same setup, with the sorbothane feet in the correct weight range. It’s the exact size for my tt. Beware of people trying to sell you John Boos or other cutting boards at twice the price by calling them “audiophile” solutions.
As per Darko video, I have the Ikea Aptitlig combined with the Atacam Isoilation Gel (which also do a superb on top of my speaker stands). The whole set up cost 120 Euro and the result is better detail and soundstage depth, two things that usually cost a lot more to improve on. Very highly recommended solution!
I recently bought the Butchers Block Acoustics 3” black platform and it definitely helps. I put 4 Orea Indigo under it and the Block is holding my Technics 1210gr. So far so good
So let me share my personal experience. I own a modified Sl1200, completely rebuilt, blue leds, new motor, new arm, and silicone dampening tray, Funk Firm mat. Original I used ISO Acoustic feet in place of the standard Technics feet. My turntable sits atop my IKEA Kallax, however when I moved to my new home with beautiful cherry hardwood floors, and the turntable was no long on a concrete slab. I immediately got vibration transference and resonance everytime anyone walked or moved near the turntable. Was driving me nuts to the point of contacting a contractor to put a knee wall in my crawlspace to stop my floor flexing. ( This is normal btw) Was going to buy a wallnut wall mount platform for my turntable as well for around 500 USD. However I tried first some foam dense speaker pads under the ISO Acoustic feet, and that didnt help. I found on Amazon real Sorbathane feet. They have an adhesive back and cost around 30-40 bucks USD. Let me say it was life changing. No one single vibration was transferred to my Denon 103R stylus no matter how I jumped or stomped. It was mind blowing. Sometimes you can find very cheap alternatives. Just an FYI. Thanks.
I have the Project Xtension 10, the infidel of turntables. It weighs 65lbs. All I use is 2 X 1 Inch thick mdf, 1 x 1/2 inch thick mdf, in-between each mdf, place in 1/4 inch cork sheeting. I finished with 4 of inverted adjustable spike feet for a rack platform is dead silent for under $30.00, xcld feet. Board was cut at Home Depot for free. After painting, took 15 minutes to setup. I guess this is the infidel of isolation bases. Kiss, low cost, extremely high effectiveness.
Excellent video. Hans Beek recently covered vibration dampening. I have a Zazen II under my CD player/DAC, which weighs about 12 kgs. I have tried adding more weight on top, but I didn't hear any difference. I might swap in my Orea Bronze supports to see if they make a difference as a closer weight match.
I use a piece of granite mounted on 3 inch rubber stoppers, then magnetic isolation legs than an acrylic board. All of this is on top of a Hi density fiber board on top of rubber stoppers a and a steel frame
Let me sumarize the vibrations issues: 1. types of equipment that are affected, in order. observation: devices with moving parts are generally the most affected - turntables - valve amplifiers - cd/dvd/bluray players. observation: vibrations are not directly audible, but they can make the laser to miss some bits, making the error correction to kick in and dirty the sound - tape recorders - amplifiers, dacs (to a lesser extent) 2. electrical parts that are affected, in order: - turntable headshells - valves - inductors - capacitors (to a lesser extent) - variable resistors (to a lesser extent) - cables (to a lesser extent) - soldering and components connections (vibrations, if strong enough, could make soldering and connections to go bad) 3. Sources of vibration and solutions: - vibrating (noisy) transformer. cause: the shieding becomes loose and the sheets of metal composing the core are vibrating. solution: fasten the shield with a pipe wrench and maybe put a zip tie around it. - vibrating motor. cause: worn out ballbearings or screws becoming loose. ideal solution: change the motor. interim solution: dissasemble the motor, clean the old lubricant, put new lubricant inside the bearing, reassemble. for a motor in an horizontal axis position, it may work to mount it rotated at 180 dgr. - random vibrations from heavy vehicles on the street, or just walking near the equipement. solutions: moving the equipement in a different position and use of dampeners or decouplers - vibrations trough the floor from the speakers. solutions: moving the equipement in a different position and use of dampeners or decouplers - vibrations trough the air from subwoofers and/or woofers. turntables are the most affected. solutions: moving the equipement in a different position, at a distance and away from the direct path of the air moving
hi , I use a poste cart , a tall trolley that postal services use to transport letters and small parcels onto vans or trains . Mine is french . I have a lot of hifi , so always swapping gear in and out , plus many formats so minidisc , cassette , cd , r2r , vinyl , amps graphics (yes I know) so I've always a descent sized stack ..but I only have 4 very small areas of contact and they are very chunky rubber tyres on steel wheels .. I do apply brakes to the wheels ., and yes it eliminates the blur .. I also think it looks oool , but know its not for everyone ..my post trolley was 20e as used and slightly bent . if you tell me how to upload a photo will do .. thanks for the content 👍
Have you tried spring style (Nobsound) decoupling iso feet under your speakers? OMG, I just discovered my speaker’s greatness! Please give these a shot! Of course the speakers will vibrate but the stands don’t vibrate. If you use light speakers, remove a few springs. I removed four springs out of seven for my Kanto Tuks. Please try these.
a great baseboard is not really wood, if you want lightweight use paper mache and covered it with both sides balsa wood sheets. if you want it to move like your platform use moongel two stacked on top of each other and always 5 not 4. if you want solid use marble or granite worktop 12mm thick open cell foam is very good as well minimum 60mm thick use 6 + inches of open-cell foam if you have wobbly floors
I’m being offered a custom base that is 100 pounds with feet that support up to 800 pounds. I’m new to all this. Are these good metrics or should I stick with name brands?
I am going to check out your previous vids on the subject. Vibration is a complex thing and hard to simplify. I am currently nearing the end of a 2 1/2 year project to build my own turntable. When I started I was focusing on external vibration then as I researched ( I am building an idler drive based on a lenco L75) I discovered it was just as important to deal with internal vibration. Some people doing similar builds use a variety of materials including Birch ply, Corian, MDF, Concrete, "sand boxes" . Corian and MDF are reported to have the best internal dampening. My build is birch ply, as I was gluing up the plinth I started to wonder if the layers of ply were an issue by transmitting the motor vibrations horizontally? I have no idea if that is the case but suspect it is a real possibility. I had purchased stainless steel motor and bearing plates but decided( for the challenge) to make my own plates out of Bronze(CUSn(6)). MY initial thoughts on Bronze was to use this metal(softer and denser than stainless steel) as a high frequency vibration filter. I am yet to find out of that is the case( still have a couple of months to go on the build) and admit with the bronze the aesthetics overtook the function( they look really good).
When I refer to vibrations I am always referring to inner or self vibrations. External ones can be controlled, the internal ones needs a ton of work ro reduce. That is one of the reasons I am keeping my Kuzma turntable (for now) it is the only turntable that has no sound when I tap or even hit the external chassis.
@@anadialog My focus on external( not related to my initial comment) came from macro photography. I used many techniques to stabilize the macro rig against external vibrations. A car driving past the house, or a fridge turning on at the wrong moment could end up blurring a photo. Its, therefore, obvious why my instinct was initially focused on external vibrations. From my experience with macro photography I do find it hard to get my head around your view that external vibrations can be controlled( not saying your wrong). In my case external vibration is an issue as my system is sitting on parquet( for music reproduction not a great floor surface). Already started my follow on project (from the TT) a Hifi Rack.
Sorry for maybe stupid question. Why there will be no results putting a lighten device to a heavier platform? I'm looking for a solution for my 7kg turntable and trying to figure what platform weight I need. Thanks:)
Not stupid! You can get a light base but the effect is not going to be that of dampening, for that you need very heavy stuff or designed in a way that vibrations are broken up, but of decoupling.
Now I know this is outside what the video was strictly about but... I have made various isolation platforms over the past 20+years but have recently come across a way of making a very effective one for very low cost. Drummers use sticky pads to damp drum heads. The ones I have used are sold as MoonGel. I paid $15Au for six. Easy to find online or any local drum store will have them. Just take four and stick in the corners of a piece of MDF or preferably a bamboo cutting board (check Ikea) and that's it. Works fantastically on a couple of tube amps I have and also on both a streamer and a DAC. Anyway, it's so cheap...
No, I am glad you and others posting DIY solutions. Everything helps! When I used to play the drums I just used pieces of joined tape to dissipate the energy of the snare. Nice!
@@2ridiculous41 Sure. Ikea Aptitlig is the cheapest improvement you can make however Atacama Isolation Gel (at $AU70 per set of 8) is probably the 2nd best. And placed under the Aptitlig improves its impact by another 75% or so. And also works great on top of speaker stands.
What do you think of DIY options? I am ordering a granite countertop for a remodel and was going to get a turntable platform cut with the extra material. Was thinking of putting some iso acoustic feet underneath. Turntable is 25lbs Mofi Ultradeck
DIY is a great option, especially if you use good feet under a quality platform. Granite is good but maybe I would add something on the top, to decouple the extremely hard surface of the Granite slab that may bounce back vibrations. Someone suggested me cast iron. I tried. Waste of time.
@@anadialog I'd suggest trying a layer of something different, say either MDF or aluminium... or both to make a constrained layer platform. Ii used to make quite complicated ones over 20 years ago and they worked well.
@@anadialog I just wondered what the user consensus was with minus K ? If people found them superior to other technologies for vinyl playback? How did you score a great price on it? Is there a US dealer you can recommend for that record player? Great channel keep up the good work !!
What about getting a concrete floor installed and covered with marble then should solve the vibration problem unless you live near railway lines, We don't have marble flooring but but we don't have vibration problems just one problem if you trip your dead.
Great video! While the Kuzma TT appear to be of very high quality, the fact that one may have to use expensive anti-vibrations platforms raise the question of why not buying a suspended TT in the first place? In the end, that's what these platforms are all about, to compensate for the non suspended designed TT.
Good observation. I was hoping the mass of the Stabi R would be sufficient and as states in another comment, the Stabi R is my first turntables NOT to resonate when I tap or even hit the base. Now things are just better. The suspended models by Kuzma are just too expensive IMO. I do have an EMT 938 that is suspended.
Hundreds of dollars sounds good for some people. For exchange for some result. But, as I mentioned in past, I have terminal solution for acoustical feedback. It is change of perspective.
What are your thoughts on using Isoacoustics Gaia feet with a 2-3” butcher block (walnut and/or maple)? The threaded feet would allow for damping, they’re rated for 70 lbs (Gaia III), and could be leveled on any surface
@@anadialog I’m not sure if I’m interpreting your comment correctly, because of my lack in English. For example the Gaia III can handle speakers to 32kg. If you have speakers of 30kg, would you take the III’s or go up? Isoacoustics says: The GAIA model should be selected based on the weight that they are supporting. The weight limits we set are based on the performance curve. The GAIA perform well up to the specified weight limits, but once you are within 10% of the weight limit, we recommend using the next size up for best results. We do not recommend exceeding the weight limits of the GAIA’s or GAIA-TITAN’s.
Have you talked about feet that would allow you to balance a turntable more perfectly? And, is balancing your turntable perfectly a necessity for the best sound?
@@anadialog Instead of balancing, I should have said leveling. Most turntables don’t include feet that allow previse leveling. Is precise leveling a priority for you or is close enough good enough?
Vibration dumping must be in conjunction with a good clamping and mat. Because a disk itself absorbs much acoustic vibrations. And when nobody dancing this is a main trouble maker.
As i have written above, drummers use damping pads for drum heads. The ones I got were sold as MoonGel. I use them under Ikea chopping boards and I think... just an opinion, they are better than sorbothane.
I've done more experiments concerning vibration damping than anyone I know. Maybe I'm even THE expert, and don't even realize it. The first thing that should be said is that the devices that have been shown in this video, if effective, only decrease structure borne vibration. There is also airborne vibration which gets to our equipment & components and from what I would guess, its at least as troublesome as structure borne vibration coming from underneath your source and amps. The only way I know to lessen airborne vibration is to move your source and preamp further away from what's causing all the vibration; your speakers. We hear all the time, how important it is to move our speakers around and experiment with placement, but we never hear advice to move your source and preamp around and experiment with their placement. One time in my early 20's I had my turntable in a corner about 2 to 3 feet behind my left speaker. It was sharing the same cabinet as my preamp. I decided to move the turntable, preamp & cabinet all the way across the room, where it was 6 feet in front of my right speaker. Just those 4 feet or so further away made a difference for the better in the sound. With distance, both sounds and vibration decrease. Remembering this positive result, another time in a brand new different location, I moved my turntable and preamp around the corner and into another room that shared the other side of the same wall that was behind my speakers. I placed the turntable and preamp far back into the room using long cables. In other words they were no longer in the same room as the vibration producing loudspeakers. This was an even bigger improvement, not even being in the same room, and if a long tape measure could magically go right through the wall behind the speakers, into the room behind the speakers room, where the turntable & preamp were situated, the tape measure would have said 11 feet; between back of loudspeaker cabinet and source components. There CAN be an immense improvement in decreasing vibration getting to your source. The sound is more confident sounding, less interfered with, cleaner, clearer; the works. I still have my VPI isolation base. VPI is known as a very good high end turntable manufacturer, and the VPI Isolation Base was their very first product before they started making turntables. It is a very heavy rectangular piece. It has 4 threaded holes, one in each corner on the bottom for four 3 inch high spring feet. I have experimented with removing the spring feet and tried using tennis balls underneath to replace them. At first I thought it was an improvement because the bass sounded obviously better. Bet the more I listened I realized that there was a certain magic that was gone. Call it continuity, seamlessness, flow or whatever, but the tennis balls underneath made my system sound mechanical or something. They want back into the can.The spring feet were screwed back in !
@@anadialog With moving the source further away from vibration it addresses both the structure borne and airborne vibration and the degradation of the sound. A far as materials underneath components I have tried everything from rubber, sorbothene, springs, marble, glass, carbon fibre, and some materials harder than steel. Also setups that move in sympathy to the vibration, non-sympathetic vibration are bad; really bad. Also I've tried natural non-man made materials (organic), individually and in combination with other materials. It doesn't have to get real expensive. Never think you're there as far as being vibratory free. If I wouldn't have kept going forward my sound quality wouldn't be half as good as it is now. Cost unfortunately forbids me from trying Townshend products and the Synergistic Research Tranquility Base, which is also about things other than merely vibration. Sorbothene deadens the liveliness of the sound; I don't use it. Glass, which is made of sand works great only in certain applications. I do not like the sound of glass marbles under equipment. Glare galore. In laboratories where they use electron microscopes, even the vibration of a refrigerator in the next room can blur the image. With such high magnification, even the tiniest bit of vibration getting to the microscope can blur it.
I have sponge hockey pucks, good quality ones. They are under all the stands, and under every piece of equipment. Zero vibration and complete decoupling. The case of pucks cost $75.00
That is not decoupling but damping. You can state something like this only if you have also tried real high-quality devices. Otherwise it’s just mumbo jumbo. No harsh feelings but this type of comments is written several times during the year and it would be great advice if based on a true comparisons. In other words you you do not know if it is a good solution or a mediocre one. I tried several budget solutions when I was a student in the 90’s and early 2000’s but nothing comes close to a professionally developed device for damping or decoupling. Are they too expensive? Absolutely yes, they dam are and so hate that because the price is just not justified but that is another story that I did discuss in other videos.
I put an order for a hand made table for our dining room. Italian marble with mahogany wood phenomenal. its a big table $4500 euro. Questo cabaret a cafe di Platis per 4300 euro e una vera vergognia dai caro. Propio!! But then again some will buy.
If you can hear a difference between vibrations board and not a vibration board. Then you have a fundamental issue. And your supported surface there you put your stuff is so bad so you can't sonically use it.. Then that is your issue fix that first of and do not try to put makeup on the corp..😂 Then you are better of as a starting position.🎉
i bought 4 laboratory rubber plugs (30/40 mm diameter, 40 mm high) for 5 euro in total and put them under the cd player, no vibrations of the shelf were transmitted to the player, so all these stories of yours are just marketing for the "non-smart " with money
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
I can vouch for the Zazen1 and the Zazen2! They have made the biggest difference in my set up. Have a heavy wooden cabinet that was giving off a horrible resonance and these have saved me from so much stress of trying to figure out what was wrong.
I use an HRS platform under my turntable. I have gone from a VPI Prime Signature at 70 lbs, a Rega Planar 10 at less than 10lbs and now my favorite, a fully restored Micro Seiki RX-5000 at 100 lbs plus 35 lb motor assembly. The compliance is, of course, related to the weight and I have replaced the feet with the appropriate compliance ones to provide proper damping for each weight range. All worked weel with the VPI most in need of help with structural isolation.
Great video. Although not dabbling too much with audio too much recently, I did in the past. What did I discover? One of the first vibration mods was the offer of a replacement shelf of my old Sound Organisation shelf on my SO table by the HI-Fi News magazine. It sat under my series 2 Roksan Xerses turntable. What a difference! Now I think your comment about does it sound better or different is very wise! If I had a bright sounding system I might have thought it not so good. I would say that what you use is what you get. What I mean by that is the HI-FI News shelf seemed more ridged and so I got a brighter, tighter sound. This led me to put spikes into the stand and dispense with a shelf-later discovering that Roksan had a stand that did this also although maybe for adjustment underneath the deck. What was the sound effect? Well a much more dynamic sound- tighter and brighter but at the expense of some thinness ie vocals not so warm. That makes me think these things are a bit of a juggling act and fine tuning but had to add if you stick your turntable on top of a heavy old piece of furniture anything might be an improvement. My thoughts from experimentation( right or wrong) are-I think you need to keep a turntable as solid as possible whilst minimising vibration feedback considering the microscopic grooves of a record. With amplifiers the problem is somewhat less complex and so sorbathane feet work wonders under a valve amp. I’m not sure I would want to pay £1000s when you can buy a lump of blubber much cheaper-is the special shelf worth it-I can’t say but from the differences I’ve heard-may be a better turntable may be in order. Just a thought though-if you think it an absolute science-why didn’t the turntable manufacturer strap one of these shelves underneath their turntables and call it their premium model? Perhaps some do 🙂
For my Turntable I use IKEA APTITLIG board which is a weighty nice looking and doing the job sitting on sorbothane feet . Suitable for my vintage TT but I’ll probably get it upgraded once I upgrade my TT. Thanks for this great channel , always looking forward for your next video 🙏
I have the exact same setup, with the sorbothane feet in the correct weight range. It’s the exact size for my tt. Beware of people trying to sell you John Boos or other cutting boards at twice the price by calling them “audiophile” solutions.
As per Darko video, I have the Ikea Aptitlig combined with the Atacam Isoilation Gel (which also do a superb on top of my speaker stands). The whole set up cost 120 Euro and the result is better detail and soundstage depth, two things that usually cost a lot more to improve on. Very highly recommended solution!
I recently bought the Butchers Block Acoustics 3” black platform and it definitely helps. I put 4 Orea Indigo under it and the Block is holding my Technics 1210gr. So far so good
Good job!
Beautiful turntables bro 👍😎
So let me share my personal experience. I own a modified Sl1200, completely rebuilt, blue leds, new motor, new arm, and silicone dampening tray, Funk Firm mat. Original I used ISO Acoustic feet in place of the standard Technics feet. My turntable sits atop my IKEA Kallax, however when I moved to my new home with beautiful cherry hardwood floors, and the turntable was no long on a concrete slab. I immediately got vibration transference and resonance everytime anyone walked or moved near the turntable. Was driving me nuts to the point of contacting a contractor to put a knee wall in my crawlspace to stop my floor flexing. ( This is normal btw) Was going to buy a wallnut wall mount platform for my turntable as well for around 500 USD. However I tried first some foam dense speaker pads under the ISO Acoustic feet, and that didnt help. I found on Amazon real Sorbathane feet. They have an adhesive back and cost around 30-40 bucks USD. Let me say it was life changing. No one single vibration was transferred to my Denon 103R stylus no matter how I jumped or stomped. It was mind blowing. Sometimes you can find very cheap alternatives. Just an FYI. Thanks.
Cool! Thanks for sharing!
I have the Project Xtension 10, the infidel of turntables. It weighs 65lbs. All I use is 2 X 1 Inch thick mdf, 1 x 1/2 inch thick mdf, in-between each mdf, place in 1/4 inch cork sheeting. I finished with 4 of inverted adjustable spike feet for a rack platform is dead silent for under $30.00, xcld feet. Board was cut at Home Depot for free. After painting, took 15 minutes to setup. I guess this is the infidel of isolation bases. Kiss, low cost, extremely high effectiveness.
Excellent video. Hans Beek recently covered vibration dampening. I have a Zazen II under my CD player/DAC, which weighs about 12 kgs. I have tried adding more weight on top, but I didn't hear any difference. I might swap in my Orea Bronze supports to see if they make a difference as a closer weight match.
I use a piece of granite mounted on 3 inch rubber stoppers, then magnetic isolation legs than an acrylic board. All of this is on top of a Hi density fiber board on top of rubber stoppers a and a steel frame
Wow!
Let me sumarize the vibrations issues:
1. types of equipment that are affected, in order. observation: devices with moving parts are generally the most affected
- turntables
- valve amplifiers
- cd/dvd/bluray players. observation: vibrations are not directly audible, but they can make the laser to miss some bits, making the error correction to kick in and dirty the sound
- tape recorders
- amplifiers, dacs (to a lesser extent)
2. electrical parts that are affected, in order:
- turntable headshells
- valves
- inductors
- capacitors (to a lesser extent)
- variable resistors (to a lesser extent)
- cables (to a lesser extent)
- soldering and components connections (vibrations, if strong enough, could make soldering and connections to go bad)
3. Sources of vibration and solutions:
- vibrating (noisy) transformer. cause: the shieding becomes loose and the sheets of metal composing the core are vibrating. solution: fasten the shield with a pipe wrench and maybe put a zip tie around it.
- vibrating motor. cause: worn out ballbearings or screws becoming loose. ideal solution: change the motor. interim solution: dissasemble the motor, clean the old lubricant, put new lubricant inside the bearing, reassemble. for a motor in an horizontal axis position, it may work to mount it rotated at 180 dgr.
- random vibrations from heavy vehicles on the street, or just walking near the equipement. solutions: moving the equipement in a different position and use of dampeners or decouplers
- vibrations trough the floor from the speakers. solutions: moving the equipement in a different position and use of dampeners or decouplers
- vibrations trough the air from subwoofers and/or woofers. turntables are the most affected. solutions: moving the equipement in a different position, at a distance and away from the direct path of the air moving
Nice! Thanks for sharing that!
Packed with info yet concise. Why doesn't this have a lot of likes?
hi , I use a poste cart , a tall trolley that postal services use to transport letters and small parcels onto vans or trains . Mine is french . I have a lot of hifi , so always swapping gear in and out , plus many formats so minidisc , cassette , cd , r2r , vinyl , amps graphics (yes I know) so I've always a descent sized stack ..but I only have 4 very small areas of contact and they are very chunky rubber tyres on steel wheels .. I do apply brakes to the wheels ., and yes it eliminates the blur ..
I also think it looks oool , but know its not for everyone ..my post trolley was 20e as used and slightly bent . if you tell me how to upload a photo will do ..
thanks for the content 👍
Have you tried spring style (Nobsound) decoupling iso feet under your speakers?
OMG, I just discovered my speaker’s greatness!
Please give these a shot!
Of course the speakers will vibrate but the stands don’t vibrate.
If you use light speakers, remove a few springs. I removed four springs out of seven for my Kanto Tuks.
Please try these.
This is a night and day difference.
Hello, Did you try vibration damping under you Telefunken M15/Studer 810?
Well, the Telefunken is in its own bench and the Studer is on a special shelf that has an integrated decoupling solution.
a great baseboard is not really wood, if you want lightweight use paper mache and covered it with both sides balsa wood sheets. if you want it to move like your platform use moongel two stacked on top of each other and always 5 not 4. if you want solid use marble or granite worktop 12mm thick
open cell foam is very good as well minimum 60mm thick
use 6 + inches of open-cell foam if you have wobbly floors
I’m being offered a custom base that is 100 pounds with feet that support up to 800 pounds.
I’m new to all this. Are these good metrics or should I stick with name brands?
Can’t say for sure. It depends from your system, your rack, and what you like. Experiment! If change is subtle or absent try something else
I am going to check out your previous vids on the subject. Vibration is a complex thing and hard to simplify. I am currently nearing the end of a 2 1/2 year project to build my own turntable. When I started I was focusing on external vibration then as I researched ( I am building an idler drive based on a lenco L75) I discovered it was just as important to deal with internal vibration. Some people doing similar builds use a variety of materials including Birch ply, Corian, MDF, Concrete, "sand boxes" . Corian and MDF are reported to have the best internal dampening. My build is birch ply, as I was gluing up the plinth I started to wonder if the layers of ply were an issue by transmitting the motor vibrations horizontally? I have no idea if that is the case but suspect it is a real possibility. I had purchased stainless steel motor and bearing plates but decided( for the challenge) to make my own plates out of Bronze(CUSn(6)). MY initial thoughts on Bronze was to use this metal(softer and denser than stainless steel) as a high frequency vibration filter. I am yet to find out of that is the case( still have a couple of months to go on the build) and admit with the bronze the aesthetics overtook the function( they look really good).
When I refer to vibrations I am always referring to inner or self vibrations. External ones can be controlled, the internal ones needs a ton of work ro reduce. That is one of the reasons I am keeping my Kuzma turntable (for now) it is the only turntable that has no sound when I tap or even hit the external chassis.
@@anadialog My focus on external( not related to my initial comment) came from macro photography. I used many techniques to stabilize the macro rig against external vibrations. A car driving past the house, or a fridge turning on at the wrong moment could end up blurring a photo. Its, therefore, obvious why my instinct was initially focused on external vibrations. From my experience with macro photography I do find it hard to get my head around your view that external vibrations can be controlled( not saying your wrong). In my case external vibration is an issue as my system is sitting on parquet( for music reproduction not a great floor surface). Already started my follow on project (from the TT) a Hifi Rack.
Sorry for maybe stupid question. Why there will be no results putting a lighten device to a heavier platform? I'm looking for a solution for my 7kg turntable and trying to figure what platform weight I need. Thanks:)
Not stupid! You can get a light base but the effect is not going to be that of dampening, for that you need very heavy stuff or designed in a way that vibrations are broken up, but of decoupling.
Now I know this is outside what the video was strictly about but...
I have made various isolation platforms over the past 20+years but have recently come across a way of making a very effective one for very low cost.
Drummers use sticky pads to damp drum heads. The ones I have used are sold as MoonGel.
I paid $15Au for six. Easy to find online or any local drum store will have them.
Just take four and stick in the corners of a piece of MDF or preferably a bamboo cutting board (check Ikea) and that's it.
Works fantastically on a couple of tube amps I have and also on both a streamer and a DAC.
Anyway, it's so cheap...
No, I am glad you and others posting DIY solutions. Everything helps! When I used to play the drums I just used pieces of joined tape to dissipate the energy of the snare. Nice!
Good idea but I bet Atacama Isolation Gel pads versus the Moon Gel are thicker, stronger and should be able to handle heavier gear.
@@connorduke4619 Perhaps but I also bet they are a lot more expensive.
@@2ridiculous41 Sure. Ikea Aptitlig is the cheapest improvement you can make however Atacama Isolation Gel (at $AU70 per set of 8) is probably the 2nd best. And placed under the Aptitlig improves its impact by another 75% or so. And also works great on top of speaker stands.
@@connorduke4619 I think Moon Gel runs about $8Au for 6.
What do you think of DIY options? I am ordering a granite countertop for a remodel and was going to get a turntable platform cut with the extra material. Was thinking of putting some iso acoustic feet underneath. Turntable is 25lbs Mofi Ultradeck
DIY is a great option, especially if you use good feet under a quality platform. Granite is good but maybe I would add something on the top, to decouple the extremely hard surface of the Granite slab that may bounce back vibrations. Someone suggested me cast iron. I tried. Waste of time.
@@anadialog I'd suggest trying a layer of something different, say either MDF or aluminium... or both to make a constrained layer platform.
Ii used to make quite complicated ones over 20 years ago and they worked well.
When I suspended my amplifier and CDP on magnetic suspension ...it was night & day....
Why wouldn’t you just get a minus K platform instead of the Kuzma? Prices are comparable, I would guess the minus K would be the top performer?
Well, I did not know the Minus and probably because I have a kuzma turntable, which I got for a very good price.
@@anadialog
I just wondered what the user consensus was with minus K ?
If people found them superior to other technologies for vinyl playback?
How did you score a great price on it? Is there a US dealer you can recommend for that record player?
Great channel keep up the good work !!
Do you think such platforms will help with heavy solid state amps or heavy CD players?
Indeed! Although the impact will be of minor degree in respect to turntables or tube amps.
@@anadialog Got it! Thanks! Did you mean that the impact will be less than with tube amps and turntables?
What about getting a concrete floor installed and covered with marble then should solve the vibration problem unless you live near railway lines, We don't have marble flooring but but we don't have vibration problems just one problem if you trip your dead.
I live in Tuscany and our floors are all terracotta tiles
Good you don’t have problems with vibration
Great video! While the Kuzma TT appear to be of very high quality, the fact that one may have to use expensive anti-vibrations platforms raise the question of why not buying a suspended TT in the first place? In the end, that's what these platforms are all about, to compensate for the non suspended designed TT.
Good observation. I was hoping the mass of the Stabi R would be sufficient and as states in another comment, the Stabi R is my first turntables NOT to resonate when I tap or even hit the base. Now things are just better. The suspended models by Kuzma are just too expensive IMO. I do have an EMT 938 that is suspended.
Excellent run down of what's out there! Not enough people are aware of some of these, although I'm surprised you didn't mention the Gingko Cloud.
Glad you mentioned that. I have't tried them. There are so many!
Hundreds of dollars sounds good for some people. For exchange for some result. But, as I mentioned in past, I have terminal solution for acoustical feedback. It is change of perspective.
What are your thoughts on using Isoacoustics Gaia feet with a 2-3” butcher block (walnut and/or maple)?
The threaded feet would allow for damping, they’re rated for 70 lbs (Gaia III), and could be leveled on any surface
Sounds great! Just make sure you match weight. Go to the upper limit of the feet, never the opposite.
@@anadialog that's a good point, I wouldn't have thought of that
@@anadialog I’m not sure if I’m interpreting your comment correctly, because of my lack in English.
For example the Gaia III can handle speakers to 32kg. If you have speakers of 30kg, would you take the III’s or go up?
Isoacoustics says:
The GAIA model should be selected based on the weight that they are supporting. The weight limits we set are based on the performance curve. The GAIA perform well up to the specified weight limits, but once you are within 10% of the weight limit, we recommend using the next size up for best results. We do not recommend exceeding the weight limits of the GAIA’s or GAIA-TITAN’s.
Why would anyone consider paying more for a Kuzma when you could buy a HRS???
Have you talked about feet that would allow you to balance a turntable more perfectly? And, is balancing your turntable perfectly a necessity for the best sound?
In the kuzma you can move them around as you can see from the pictures
@@anadialog Instead of balancing, I should have said leveling. Most turntables don’t include feet that allow previse leveling. Is precise leveling a priority for you or is close enough good enough?
Vibration dumping must be in conjunction with a good clamping and mat. Because a disk itself absorbs much acoustic vibrations. And when nobody dancing this is a main trouble maker.
I make mine out of IKEA cutting board and sorbothane pads. $25 all in.
As i have written above, drummers use damping pads for drum heads. The ones I got were sold as MoonGel.
I use them under Ikea chopping boards and I think... just an opinion, they are better than sorbothane.
Good job! I indicated something similar in the video. Try vibrapods as well. With those you can calibrate the weight.
I've done more experiments concerning vibration damping than anyone I know. Maybe I'm even THE expert, and don't even realize it. The first thing that should be said is that the devices that have been shown in this video, if effective, only decrease structure borne vibration. There is also airborne vibration which gets to our equipment & components and from what I would guess, its at least as troublesome as structure borne vibration coming from underneath your source and amps. The only way I know to lessen airborne vibration is to move your source and preamp further away from what's causing all the vibration; your speakers. We hear all the time, how important it is to move our speakers around and experiment with placement, but we never hear advice to move your source and preamp around and experiment with their placement. One time in my early 20's I had my turntable in a corner about 2 to 3 feet behind my left speaker. It was sharing the same cabinet as my preamp. I decided to move the turntable, preamp & cabinet all the way across the room, where it was 6 feet in front of my right speaker. Just those 4 feet or so further away made a difference for the better in the sound. With distance, both sounds and vibration decrease. Remembering this positive result, another time in a brand new different location, I moved my turntable and preamp around the corner and into another room that shared the other side of the same wall that was behind my speakers. I placed the turntable and preamp far back into the room using long cables. In other words they were no longer in the same room as the vibration producing loudspeakers. This was an even bigger improvement, not even being in the same room, and if a long tape measure could magically go right through the wall behind the speakers, into the room behind the speakers room, where the turntable & preamp were situated, the tape measure would have said 11 feet; between back of loudspeaker cabinet and source components.
There CAN be an immense improvement in decreasing vibration getting to your source. The sound is more confident sounding, less interfered with, cleaner, clearer; the works. I still have my VPI isolation base. VPI is known as a very good high end turntable manufacturer, and the VPI Isolation Base was their very first product before they started making turntables. It is a very heavy rectangular piece. It has 4 threaded holes, one in each corner on the bottom for four 3 inch high spring feet. I have experimented with removing the spring feet and tried using tennis balls underneath to replace them. At first I thought it was an improvement because the bass sounded obviously better. Bet the more I listened I realized that there was a certain magic that was gone. Call it continuity, seamlessness, flow or whatever, but the tennis balls underneath made my system sound mechanical or something. They want back into the can.The spring feet were screwed back in !
Thanks for sharing your experience. This video was on solutions not causes. Perhaps in the future I will go more in depth.
@@anadialog With moving the source further away from vibration it addresses both the structure borne and airborne vibration and the degradation of the sound. A far as materials underneath components I have tried everything from rubber, sorbothene, springs, marble, glass, carbon fibre, and some materials harder than steel. Also setups that move in sympathy to the vibration, non-sympathetic vibration are bad; really bad. Also I've tried natural non-man made materials (organic), individually and in combination with other materials. It doesn't have to get real expensive. Never think you're there as far as being vibratory free. If I wouldn't have kept going forward my sound quality wouldn't be half as good as it is now. Cost unfortunately forbids me from trying Townshend products and the Synergistic Research Tranquility Base, which is also about things other than merely vibration. Sorbothene deadens the liveliness of the sound; I don't use it. Glass, which is made of sand works great only in certain applications. I do not like the sound of glass marbles under equipment. Glare galore.
In laboratories where they use electron microscopes, even the vibration of a refrigerator in the next room can blur the image. With such high magnification, even the tiniest bit of vibration getting to the microscope can blur it.
I must’ve missed something because I thought he had an EMT turntable?
I still do, but the Kuzma allows me to fiddle around and just sounds better
Bravo
Well if you want the best of damping check Well float from Japan
I have sponge hockey pucks, good quality ones. They are under all the stands, and under every piece of equipment. Zero vibration and complete decoupling. The case of pucks cost $75.00
That is not decoupling but damping. You can state something like this only if you have also tried real high-quality devices. Otherwise it’s just mumbo jumbo. No harsh feelings but this type of comments is written several times during the year and it would be great advice if based on a true comparisons. In other words you you do not know if it is a good solution or a mediocre one. I tried several budget solutions when I was a student in the 90’s and early 2000’s but nothing comes close to a professionally developed device for damping or decoupling. Are they too expensive? Absolutely yes, they dam are and so hate that because the price is just not justified but that is another story that I did discuss in other videos.
I put an order for a hand made table for our dining room. Italian marble with mahogany wood phenomenal. its a big table $4500 euro. Questo cabaret a cafe di Platis per 4300 euro e una vera vergognia dai caro. Propio!! But then again some will buy.
Yes, I agree, the price is extremely high. I managed to find mine at an extremely good price.
Lol "it costs an arm, a leg, and an eye 👁️"
When you raise two fingers to show the number 2 please do it with the palm of your hand forward, to do it with the back of the hand is an insult.
If you can hear a difference between vibrations board and not a vibration board.
Then you have a fundamental issue. And your supported surface there you put your stuff is so bad so you can't sonically use it..
Then that is your issue fix that first of and do not try to put makeup on the corp..😂
Then you are better of as a starting position.🎉
why do you block my comments???
I did not. I only block spam and offensive words/content.
i bought 4 laboratory rubber plugs (30/40 mm diameter, 40 mm high) for 5 euro in total and put them under the cd player, no vibrations of the shelf were transmitted to the player, so all these stories of yours are just marketing for the "non-smart " with money
the more money you spend the better your ears get.dont be fooled
Mostly snake oil. Just use sponges and 3/4 inch plywood. Many ways to build your own and stay away from snake oil