Just photographed a school tonight and I should have used auto iso. Mind you I’ve been shooting for 6+ years and been featured in magazines. So, his tips are solid af!
Thanks for this breakdown, Jack! Phenomenal photos at the end, too 👊 Just got my hands on a 400mm f/2.8 for night football & soccer. About to rent a 200-400mm f/4 + 1.4X Built-In TC for day games to see if I like it. It’d be awesome to shoot with 1 camera and 1 versatile lens to cover the entire field. Have you ever tried the Sigma or Tamron 150-600mm?
Thanks. No, I haven’t used either. I have used the Nikon 200-500 and Nikon 120-300. The 200-400 range would be perfect, but at F4, probably not enough aperture for some fields I go to.
Thanks so much! I used these settings with the exception of the 2.8. Getting a 70-200 f2.8 is my goal before the start of next season. The settings you outlined made a world of difference for me!!! I have a long way to go as this is all new to me but your videos are so helpful and is exactly what I needed! Please keep them coming!
love from china.Thank u so much for all the tutorial. My primary camera is nikon D850, your video really help me understanding this camera and make me feel more easy when shooting with this camera. keep going!
Great tips thank you! I just photographed my first game this past friday. My brother's homecoming varisty game. What a challenge! but I got some great shots. Do you have any advice on getting paid gigs for schools? Thanks again
JACK-- It was so good to be back on the sidelines and you (Jack) back on those Arizona sidelines! Just a small observation on my part( You drive a Red pickup and wear a Red shirt) I wear red and drive a Red GMC pickup and shoot NIKONS! I really enjoyed your Video and your presentation! Randy Bocksnick(Montana)
incredible photos! What lens would you use for daytime soccer games? Is the F2.8 typically for night and indoors ? I have a 70-300mm F4.5-5.6, but looking to upgrade and wondering what you would suggest. Learning so much more with your videos! Thank you!
Thanks! Yes, 2.8 is pretty much the standard for night games and gyms. Unfortunately, those lenses are costly. For day games, you can get away with the higher f-stops and the lens you have.
Hi Jack, I just recently joined the photography team for MP! Would you happen to know where to get your apparel? I love the MaxPreps Photographer collared shirt and the hat! Thanks.
Our first home game of the season is tonight! Can't wait to start shooting! I have the R6 but I am going to play around with the 90d because that crop factor will give me that extra zoom. 70-200 2.8 is my go to. Wish I had a 400 but we all know that expense, even for a used one, its like 3k. Shout to Gilbert! I got lots of family in Gilbert, Mesa and Phoenix. All ASU graduates.
Hay Jack. Great info here. I've been shooting my nephews games the last two years and starting again this year. Getting a little better at it. When you process your photos do you crop them for a specific print size like 4x6, 5x7 or 8x10? Thanks.
I usually leave them full frame (4x6), unless there’s a specific requirement for a different crop ratio. For example, Instagram requires 4x5 and a company I shoot for wants 3x2.216.
I totally agree on the auto ISO. It was very obvious to me when shooting a baseball player in varying light conditions. In particular when you are following fast paced action. There's no time to switch ISO setting. A base runner can be in a shaded area at first base and ends up at second base under extreme bright condition.
Thank you for your videos. I have a D5100. I’ll be taking pictures of my sons football games friday nights. I want to buy a good lens, where can I find used lenses? And which lens do you recommend? Taking pictures from stands most of the time. Thank you in advance
I'll be honest with you, shooting from the stands is very problematic. You are incredibly far from the action - too far to get anything decent. I highly recommend you find a way to get on the sidelines or behind the endzone. And, photographing at night means lenses with an aperture that opens up to f2.8 at all zoom lengths. The best first lens is a 70-200/f2.8. With a crop frame camera like you have, you should have some good success - if you're on the sidelines.
I have developed a new technique when shooting sports/wildlife with my Sony. I have assigned a custom button that has a memory recall of specific settings. So for example, if I am shooting a fast moving subject/bird at 1/3200 and that subject stops and stays still at a branch or athlete pauses waiting for a play, i press the custom button and my settings drops to 1/600. That keeps my ISO lower for those small movements. As soon as the birds/athlete takes off, I let go of the custom button and the shutter speed switches back to 1/3200.
Great video. This has been very helpful shooting in bad lighting at my home stadium. I recently learned I'll be able to photograph my local school at Cowboy's stadium this Fall. What lens what you recommend in that environment? I'll have my 70-200 on my side, but I wasn't sure if I need to stick with a 2.8 prime for a longer lens rental.
A 300/2.8 is a pretty standard starting point for field sports. 400/2.8 is better, especially when combined with a second camera body with a 70-200 for closer shots.
Very Glad I found you on tube, I understand all your instructions. I am a shutter bug mom and love to shoot Friday night football. If I only have a D7100 with a 55-300 /4.5, can I still use the 1000 ~ 4.5 ~ auto Iso ~ Auto WB on the sidelines......? is there a "best" recommendation(for my situation), besides buying a new Lens? Where do you shoot for Maxpreps? #WeAreMillCreek Climbing the charts in Georgia!!
I’m guessing that lens doesn’t stay at f4.5, even when wide open. I suspect it closes down to maybe 5.6 as you zoom out. So yes, you’re going to have some high ISOs - maybe more than your camera can give good results with. I think in your case you drop it down to 1/500, auto ISO and auto WB. You’re going to see some motion blur in the hands and feet, but that gives you some room with that lens. Good luck!
Stumbled across your videos, Good Stuff! I shoot a Nikon D500 with a Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2. I shoot my son's High School Soccer Games and my Daughter's Gymnastics Meets just for fun to share with the Players and Parents. It's been a learning process, but it's been fun. I'm shooting about the same settings as you recommend, took a few games to arrive there though. What Auto-Focus Settings are you using? I've been shooting Continuous and I keep jumping between Single Point and Group (Nikon D500). Thanks for the Videos and info!
Really good video and tips. I'm doing pretty much everything you're doing now, and we have our 2nd game tomorrow night. Our first game a week ago, got some decent pics, but after a couple quarters, my HEAVY Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 lens was starting to wear me down. It is stabilized like my Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 G2 lens, but it's a boat anchor. Monopod time?!!! Still am happy with it and am looking forward to using it again. Spot on with the Auto ISO and white balance.....my D780 pretty much takes care of those issues, much better than my old (but, loved that camera!!) D750. Enjoyed the video and thank u for uploading it!!!
How did you get in with Maxpreps to be a photographer? I am trying to get in to sports photography in my area. How do I go about getting media passes to get in to games and sidelines to take photos?
@@JackBeasleyMedia You are welcome! I covered sports for many years as a newspaper photojournalist, your advice is solid. Digital has sped up the learning curve, the advances in technology can be hard to keep up with sometimes and you are helping many to learn the craft!
Right on point, but doesn't anti-flicker slow your frame rate? I use it when necessary, I do a few test shot sequences and turn it on when needed. Great photos!
@@JackBeasleyMedia It takes camera computer time to analyze the lighting after you press the shutter, so it makes sense that it would slow the frame rate.
We'd probably need to get a camera engineer in on this discussion, but isn't the camera already performing almost continuous exposure readings? Why wouldn't it also be doing flicker readings? But to answer your original question - yes, I sometimes feel my cameras doing a little delay or hitch when I shoot at night under certain lighting conditions - which I attributed to anti-flicker. I don't feel it during daylight shooting (even though anti-flicker is turned on).
Shot my first game last night. These first games test your skills. Late day, to twilight with shadows partially across field from press box etc....sunny shady sunny etc...then darker then dark lol I was raising ISO as the light dropped, then started dropping aperture from F8 down to F2.8 a little at a time. I was able to start at shutter of 2000, 1600 and stopped that at 1000. Ended up at ISO 5000, f 2.8 and 1000 shutter. Our lighting isnt the best. End zones can be dungeons lol
I usually start with a wide aperture, low ISO, and high shutter speeds. Then, as light starts to fade, I try to keep the ISOs as low as possible while dropping the shutter until it hits 1/1000. Then, ISOs go up. And I agree - end zones are horrible!
@@JackBeasleyMedia I just like using the f8 to start since I like getting surrounding players in focus best I can, but as the light drops, the aperture drops narrowing that DOF and the ISO climbs. Try never to get under 1000 shutter. Take care and be safe out there.
I don’t think you guys know what it’s like shooting dungeons - lol. I’m regularly at iso 12800 here in CT, and some fields need iso 25600 to keep my shutter above 1/1000 at 2.8. Thank goodness for my D5.
I kept it generic because I have viewers who don't own Nikons. To answer your question, i normally use Auto 1. I use matrix metering and adjust the compensation up or down by 1/3 stops if I see it's being thrown off.
Excellent video, except few of us can drop $11,000-$13,000 on that lovely 400 mm f/2 lens. I use a 120-300 f/2.8 that is considerably more affordable. It doesn't have quite the reach as the 400, obviously, but it's a viable alternative.
Fair enough! Believe me, I've thought about trading down to a 120-300/2.8 because it's more versatile for indoor sports. I'd supplement it with a 500pf/5.6 for day games to get the additional reach.
Hi Jack, I just subscribed to your channel when I watch your video on volleyball. If you or someone with experience could give me some advice I'd appreciate it. I'm shooting high school football and I find it tricky to know the play, like if there are two wide receivers, I just concentrate on one and hope I'm lucky. The team this year is mostly new guys so I don't know a pattern or strong plays. Thanks Ted in Sebastian, Fl
I shoot solo with 300/2.8 as my main and 70-200 on shoulder strap. Question...if you are shooting a play say 40 yards out and it's a breakway play and comes to you are you quickly swapping to the 70-200 mid play and risk losing the shot for better focal length OR continue with 300 and have cropped limbs? Swapping setup mid play and still be able to compose the shot on a running player is extremely difficult. Assuming you stay with the same body for the completion of each play and only swap to 70-200 if you are say in endzone and they line up on anything within the 20?
Usually, with a 300, I’m too slow to switch to the 70-200 if they are running right at me. Usually, I’ll stay with them and get upper body shots. I now have a 400, so that gives you more reach and time to switch cameras.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks for the response (ps- I also played with that football game at the start of this video) - so once you start clipping cleats you switch? Putting down a monopod switching to 70-200, finding ball, setting focal length, composing shot seems to be a recipe for losing shots for me. You have maybe a second to do it all and I think I'd rather get a few more in focus shots with the long lens. How do you carry your 70-200 to be so quick? Was looking into SpiderPro holster seems to be "carry friendly" with 70-200 pointing to side and fast grab.
I’m usually kneeling or sitting and I set it on the ground so I can grab quickly with one hand. Recently, I picked up a 120-300/2.8 and that solves the switching problem because I can zoom out.
@@JackBeasleyMedia beautiful lens enjoy....so what did you carry your 70-200 with "strap-wise"? Or was it just laying on the ground next to you not tethered? I'm walking the field back and forth so need to have some way to carry.
You mean, make it faster? If so, no. If anything you’d need to “boost” your ISO under low light conditions. I wouldn’t drop your shutter speed below 1/500.
Auto ISO are you putting some limit like 4000 or no limit at all? When I go auto with(D850) 70-200 2.8 in evening game with no much light I got very granny photos. Thanks in advance
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@@JackBeasleyMedia I have a 70-200/2.8 and a 100-500/4.5-7.1. Would maxpreps deny me because I don't have a 2.8 over 200? Which leads to my second question. With the improvements to high ISO performance in recent cameras, is the advice to get 2.8 becoming outdated? At, least, feeling that you need to pay multiple thousands for a 400 ($6000, EF, used, Canon) or 120-300 2.8 ($3600, EF, Sigma)? I was using a 7D from 2010 and a 7D2 from 2016, both with the Canon 70-200/2.8. Then I spoiled myself by getting an R6 and the Canon RF 100-500/4.5-7.1 (and also the Canon RF 24-70/2.8). The photos on the 7D2 in low light (football, gym) are grotesque at about 5000-6400 ISO, but are tremendously better on the R6 with the 100-500 even at ISO 12800 and 25600. (Note: the 7.1 applies to only 472-500mm.) Might maxpreps accept me despite my over-200mm lens being 4.5-7.1?
@@thepauldineen Honestly, I don't know if they'll take that 7.1 lens. It's fine for day games, but I shoot at night on fields in the 8000-10,000 ISO range with f2.8 on a regular basis. Take those two to three stops up and we're looking at ISOs in the 32,000 to 64,000 range. I have a Nikon D5, which is pretty darn good in low light, but I personally don't like taking it above 12,800. I also know another MaxPrep photog with a Sony Alpha 1 (top of the line), and he won't take that camera above 12,800 either. There's a reason I just dropped $6000 on a used 400/2.8 and didn't go for the much cheaper 200-400/4.
I always keep the "Anti-Flicker" off? Why? When using the anti-flicker and in burst mode, the camera will often "stutter" while waiting for the optimum lighting. In the process, the peak event is often missed! Though various stadium/gym lights could flicker due to the 60~CPS, though there is still enough light despite the white balance that can't keep up. Leave the anti-flicker mode in the off mode to ensure all image sequences will be captured and shoot in RAW is best. In post-editing, it is easy to correct for exposure and for any color casting effects. Even if not in burst mode, a shutter press can be delayed long enough to miss the shot that could have been had and later corrected. High school sports are improving to update to LED lighting to avoid uneven exposures during video recording or streaming, while NCAA and Pro venues provide much better lighting conditions for HD television broadcasting.
In the hands of a pro, who understands all this, you have some valid points. However, this video is aimed at beginning to intermediate level photogs. Sports photography forums are full of photos by newer photographers who don’t understand why their series of photos have different shades or light levels, when anti-flicker easily solves their problem.
Not once - except in the comments to this video. Think about the camera crews at nationally televised football games - do they stop for the national anthem? Nope, they get shots of athletes and coaches while the anthem is playing. In my mind, I'm there to record the event, not to be part of it.
![How to Photograph Soccer (Football) [UPDATED]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w-ZcCIMjhho/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Photograph Soccer (Football) [UPDATED]](/img/tr.png)
Solid advice. It takes shooting at high school fields to understand how tricky the lighting can be.
Thank you for watching!
Just photographed a school tonight and I should have used auto iso. Mind you I’ve been shooting for 6+ years and been featured in magazines. So, his tips are solid af!
Thanks for this breakdown, Jack! Phenomenal photos at the end, too 👊 Just got my hands on a 400mm f/2.8 for night football & soccer. About to rent a 200-400mm f/4 + 1.4X Built-In TC for day games to see if I like it. It’d be awesome to shoot with 1 camera and 1 versatile lens to cover the entire field. Have you ever tried the Sigma or Tamron 150-600mm?
Thanks. No, I haven’t used either. I have used the Nikon 200-500 and Nikon 120-300. The 200-400 range would be perfect, but at F4, probably not enough aperture for some fields I go to.
Thanks so much! I used these settings with the exception of the 2.8. Getting a 70-200 f2.8 is my goal before the start of next season. The settings you outlined made a world of difference for me!!! I have a long way to go as this is all new to me but your videos are so helpful and is exactly what I needed! Please keep them coming!
Glad it helped!
love from china.Thank u so much for all the tutorial. My primary camera is nikon D850, your video really help me understanding this camera and make me feel more easy when shooting with this camera.
keep going!
Great tips thank you! I just photographed my first game this past friday. My brother's homecoming varisty game. What a challenge! but I got some great shots. Do you have any advice on getting paid gigs for schools? Thanks again
JACK-- It was so good to be back on the sidelines and you (Jack) back on those Arizona sidelines! Just a small observation on my part( You drive a Red pickup and wear a Red shirt) I wear red and drive a Red GMC pickup and shoot NIKONS! I really enjoyed your Video and your presentation! Randy Bocksnick(Montana)
Hey Randy, thanks and good luck this year!
Great video!! Have a great season capturing!
Thanks, will do!
Thanks again! I’m learning a lot from your tutorials! 👍👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
incredible photos! What lens would you use for daytime soccer games? Is the F2.8 typically for night and indoors ? I have a 70-300mm F4.5-5.6, but looking to upgrade and wondering what you would suggest. Learning so much more with your videos! Thank you!
Thanks! Yes, 2.8 is pretty much the standard for night games and gyms. Unfortunately, those lenses are costly. For day games, you can get away with the higher f-stops and the lens you have.
Just came across your channel today and have watched most of your videos already 😂 such good content and really helpful. Keep it coming.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Hi Jack, I just recently joined the photography team for MP! Would you happen to know where to get your apparel? I love the MaxPreps Photographer collared shirt and the hat! Thanks.
They order only once a year and you’ll get an email when that time comes. Unfortunately, you’re going to have to wait a few months, I think.
Our first home game of the season is tonight! Can't wait to start shooting! I have the R6 but I am going to play around with the 90d because that crop factor will give me that extra zoom. 70-200 2.8 is my go to. Wish I had a 400 but we all know that expense, even for a used one, its like 3k. Shout to Gilbert! I got lots of family in Gilbert, Mesa and Phoenix. All ASU graduates.
Sounds good, good luck!
Hay Jack. Great info here. I've been shooting my nephews games the last two years and starting again this year. Getting a little better at it. When you process your photos do you crop them for a specific print size like 4x6, 5x7 or 8x10? Thanks.
I usually leave them full frame (4x6), unless there’s a specific requirement for a different crop ratio. For example, Instagram requires 4x5 and a company I shoot for wants 3x2.216.
Thank you. I really appreciate it.
Good video, straight to the point. Awesome advice 👏
Thank you!
I totally agree on the auto ISO. It was very obvious to me when shooting a baseball player in varying light conditions. In particular when you are following fast paced action. There's no time to switch ISO setting. A base runner can be in a shaded area at first base and ends up at second base under extreme bright condition.
Coming into colder weather in the North East here - do I need a lens warmer to avoid dew?
Thank you for your videos. I have a D5100. I’ll be taking pictures of my sons football games friday nights.
I want to buy a good lens, where can I find used lenses? And which lens do you recommend? Taking pictures from stands most of the time. Thank you in advance
I'll be honest with you, shooting from the stands is very problematic. You are incredibly far from the action - too far to get anything decent. I highly recommend you find a way to get on the sidelines or behind the endzone. And, photographing at night means lenses with an aperture that opens up to f2.8 at all zoom lengths. The best first lens is a 70-200/f2.8. With a crop frame camera like you have, you should have some good success - if you're on the sidelines.
I have developed a new technique when shooting sports/wildlife with my Sony. I have assigned a custom button that has a memory recall of specific settings. So for example, if I am shooting a fast moving subject/bird at 1/3200 and that subject stops and stays still at a branch or athlete pauses waiting for a play, i press the custom button and my settings drops to 1/600. That keeps my ISO lower for those small movements. As soon as the birds/athlete takes off, I let go of the custom button and the shutter speed switches back to 1/3200.
Good idea!
Great video. This has been very helpful shooting in bad lighting at my home stadium. I recently learned I'll be able to photograph my local school at Cowboy's stadium this Fall. What lens what you recommend in that environment? I'll have my 70-200 on my side, but I wasn't sure if I need to stick with a 2.8 prime for a longer lens rental.
A 300/2.8 is a pretty standard starting point for field sports. 400/2.8 is better, especially when combined with a second camera body with a 70-200 for closer shots.
Great video!!! Do you normally shoot with Single Point or one of the small Group focus settings?
Small group
Very Glad I found you on tube, I understand all your instructions. I am a shutter bug mom and love to shoot Friday night football. If I only have a D7100 with a 55-300 /4.5, can I still use the 1000 ~ 4.5 ~ auto Iso ~ Auto WB on the sidelines......? is there a "best" recommendation(for my situation), besides buying a new Lens? Where do you shoot for Maxpreps? #WeAreMillCreek Climbing the charts in Georgia!!
I’m guessing that lens doesn’t stay at f4.5, even when wide open. I suspect it closes down to maybe 5.6 as you zoom out. So yes, you’re going to have some high ISOs - maybe more than your camera can give good results with. I think in your case you drop it down to 1/500, auto ISO and auto WB. You’re going to see some motion blur in the hands and feet, but that gives you some room with that lens. Good luck!
Super helpful. Thank you
You’re welcome!
Stumbled across your videos, Good Stuff! I shoot a Nikon D500 with a Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2. I shoot my son's High School Soccer Games and my Daughter's Gymnastics Meets just for fun to share with the Players and Parents. It's been a learning process, but it's been fun. I'm shooting about the same settings as you recommend, took a few games to arrive there though. What Auto-Focus Settings are you using? I've been shooting Continuous and I keep jumping between Single Point and Group (Nikon D500). Thanks for the Videos and info!
For most sports, I shoot D9
Really good video and tips. I'm doing pretty much everything you're doing now, and we have our 2nd game tomorrow night. Our first game a week ago, got some decent pics, but after a couple quarters, my HEAVY Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 lens was starting to wear me down. It is stabilized like my Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 G2 lens, but it's a boat anchor. Monopod time?!!! Still am happy with it and am looking forward to using it again. Spot on with the Auto ISO and white balance.....my D780 pretty much takes care of those issues, much better than my old (but, loved that camera!!) D750. Enjoyed the video and thank u for uploading it!!!
Thanks! And heck yes I’d be using a monopod!
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
Thumbs up just for the old school football game!
Thanks!
@@JackBeasleyMedia and your content is extremely valuable for an amateur like myself. 🙏
How did you get in with Maxpreps to be a photographer? I am trying to get in to sports photography in my area. How do I go about getting media passes to get in to games and sidelines to take photos?
I tell you all about it in this video - th-cam.com/video/BTxxRaSzULc/w-d-xo.html
This was great and watching from Dublin Ireland 🇮🇪. We follow the soccer variant but cover university US style football.
Thanks for watching!
@@JackBeasleyMedia your welcome
Great video, with the auto iso, do you have a max range so that it doesn’t exceed that?
Yes, it depends on the camera. For the D5 I set it at 12,800 and the D850 I’ll go to 8,000
did you try using th ed500 with lets say a 200-500 or 70-200 at a game is it a good combo to shoot with
Yes, D500s are great sport cameras. I'd only use that 200-500 during the day, however.
greeting's from your new friend from manila. good content you shared. more power to your channel. stay connected.
Thanks for watching!
Great vid boss!
Thank you!
Spot on advice!
Thank you!
@@JackBeasleyMedia You are welcome!
I covered sports for many years as a newspaper photojournalist, your advice is solid.
Digital has sped up the learning curve, the advances in technology can be hard to keep up with sometimes and you are helping many to learn the craft!
Right on point, but doesn't anti-flicker slow your frame rate? I use it when necessary, I do a few test shot sequences and turn it on when needed. Great photos!
Thanks! You know, you pose an interesting question - but wouldn't the antiflicker not even kick in if it wasn't needed?
@@JackBeasleyMedia It takes camera computer time to analyze the lighting after you press the shutter, so it makes sense that it would slow the frame rate.
Tried to paste quote from Nikon Imaging site, can't seem to do. But it does say it will slow or make frame rate erratic.
We'd probably need to get a camera engineer in on this discussion, but isn't the camera already performing almost continuous exposure readings? Why wouldn't it also be doing flicker readings?
But to answer your original question - yes, I sometimes feel my cameras doing a little delay or hitch when I shoot at night under certain lighting conditions - which I attributed to anti-flicker. I don't feel it during daylight shooting (even though anti-flicker is turned on).
@@danbrovont1148 Ok, I guess that's the answer!
How do you go about getting credentials for the games?
For which games? High school? If you don’t have media credentials, you can inquire with the coaching staff or high school athletic director.
Shot my first game last night. These first games test your skills. Late day, to twilight with shadows partially across field from press box etc....sunny shady sunny etc...then darker then dark lol I was raising ISO as the light dropped, then started dropping aperture from F8 down to F2.8 a little at a time. I was able to start at shutter of 2000, 1600 and stopped that at 1000. Ended up at ISO 5000, f 2.8 and 1000 shutter. Our lighting isnt the best. End zones can be dungeons lol
I usually start with a wide aperture, low ISO, and high shutter speeds. Then, as light starts to fade, I try to keep the ISOs as low as possible while dropping the shutter until it hits 1/1000. Then, ISOs go up. And I agree - end zones are horrible!
@@JackBeasleyMedia I just like using the f8 to start since I like getting surrounding players in focus best I can, but as the light drops, the aperture drops narrowing that DOF and the ISO climbs. Try never to get under 1000 shutter. Take care and be safe out there.
I don’t think you guys know what it’s like shooting dungeons - lol. I’m regularly at iso 12800 here in CT, and some fields need iso 25600 to keep my shutter above 1/1000 at 2.8. Thank goodness for my D5.
5:05 You say Auto WB but do you use Auto 0 or Auto 1? Also for the Auto ISO what metering mode do you use?
I kept it generic because I have viewers who don't own Nikons. To answer your question, i normally use Auto 1. I use matrix metering and adjust the compensation up or down by 1/3 stops if I see it's being thrown off.
Excellent video, except few of us can drop $11,000-$13,000 on that lovely 400 mm f/2 lens. I use a 120-300 f/2.8 that is considerably more affordable. It doesn't have quite the reach as the 400, obviously, but it's a viable alternative.
Fair enough! Believe me, I've thought about trading down to a 120-300/2.8 because it's more versatile for indoor sports. I'd supplement it with a 500pf/5.6 for day games to get the additional reach.
@@JackBeasleyMedia And I do have a 150-600 f5-6.3 for that very purpose.
Hi Jack, I just subscribed to your channel when I watch your video on volleyball. If you or someone with experience could give me some advice I'd appreciate it. I'm shooting high school football and I find it tricky to know the play, like if there are two wide receivers, I just concentrate on one and hope I'm lucky. The team this year is mostly new guys so I don't know a pattern or strong plays. Thanks Ted in Sebastian, Fl
Sounds like you should be watching football “how to” videos!
I shoot solo with 300/2.8 as my main and 70-200 on shoulder strap. Question...if you are shooting a play say 40 yards out and it's a breakway play and comes to you are you quickly swapping to the 70-200 mid play and risk losing the shot for better focal length OR continue with 300 and have cropped limbs? Swapping setup mid play and still be able to compose the shot on a running player is extremely difficult. Assuming you stay with the same body for the completion of each play and only swap to 70-200 if you are say in endzone and they line up on anything within the 20?
Usually, with a 300, I’m too slow to switch to the 70-200 if they are running right at me. Usually, I’ll stay with them and get upper body shots. I now have a 400, so that gives you more reach and time to switch cameras.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks for the response (ps- I also played with that football game at the start of this video) - so once you start clipping cleats you switch? Putting down a monopod switching to 70-200, finding ball, setting focal length, composing shot seems to be a recipe for losing shots for me. You have maybe a second to do it all and I think I'd rather get a few more in focus shots with the long lens. How do you carry your 70-200 to be so quick? Was looking into SpiderPro holster seems to be "carry friendly" with 70-200 pointing to side and fast grab.
I’m usually kneeling or sitting and I set it on the ground so I can grab quickly with one hand. Recently, I picked up a 120-300/2.8 and that solves the switching problem because I can zoom out.
@@JackBeasleyMedia beautiful lens enjoy....so what did you carry your 70-200 with "strap-wise"? Or was it just laying on the ground next to you not tethered? I'm walking the field back and forth so need to have some way to carry.
Just a regular strap. If I’m going to be stationary for an expected period of time, I’ll take it off so it’s out of the way.
How do I shoot for MaxPreps?
a question I have a canon 300 f/4 would I need to boost my shutter speed ?
You mean, make it faster? If so, no. If anything you’d need to “boost” your ISO under low light conditions. I wouldn’t drop your shutter speed below 1/500.
Jack, during the playing of our National Anthem, do you continue to take photos, or do you pause and stand with respect?
I’m there to record the event. I take a few photos for the first part of the song, then I stop and stand fast.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you.
Awesome nice sharing
Thank you!
Auto ISO are you putting some limit like 4000 or no limit at all? When I go auto with(D850) 70-200 2.8 in evening game with no much light I got very granny photos. Thanks in advance
Yes, I didn't go into all potential settings, just the basics. For my cameras, I max out the D5 at 12,800 and my D850 at 10,000.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you kindly for your answer . So one more question. How you deal with granny picture then? Any special program or LR?
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Hallo Mr Jack, IM From Indonesia...
Tips n trick for low budget for example canon 7D Mark1, please tutorial with 7D
I’ll see what I can do.
@@JackBeasleyMedia waiting for next content about low entri level 🙏
how do we get MaxPreps in hawaii?
There are three active MaxPreps photographers in Hawaii. Apply and be the fourth!
Also, Max Preps denied my application because I didn't have a 400, at least I know now what I got to work up to.
I’m pretty sure they’ll take you with a 300
@@JackBeasleyMedia I have a 70-200/2.8 and a 100-500/4.5-7.1. Would maxpreps deny me because I don't have a 2.8 over 200?
Which leads to my second question. With the improvements to high ISO performance in recent cameras, is the advice to get 2.8 becoming outdated? At, least, feeling that you need to pay multiple thousands for a 400 ($6000, EF, used, Canon) or 120-300 2.8 ($3600, EF, Sigma)? I was using a 7D from 2010 and a 7D2 from 2016, both with the Canon 70-200/2.8. Then I spoiled myself by getting an R6 and the Canon RF 100-500/4.5-7.1 (and also the Canon RF 24-70/2.8). The photos on the 7D2 in low light (football, gym) are grotesque at about 5000-6400 ISO, but are tremendously better on the R6 with the 100-500 even at ISO 12800 and 25600. (Note: the 7.1 applies to only 472-500mm.) Might maxpreps accept me despite my over-200mm lens being 4.5-7.1?
@@thepauldineen Honestly, I don't know if they'll take that 7.1 lens. It's fine for day games, but I shoot at night on fields in the 8000-10,000 ISO range with f2.8 on a regular basis. Take those two to three stops up and we're looking at ISOs in the 32,000 to 64,000 range. I have a Nikon D5, which is pretty darn good in low light, but I personally don't like taking it above 12,800. I also know another MaxPrep photog with a Sony Alpha 1 (top of the line), and he won't take that camera above 12,800 either. There's a reason I just dropped $6000 on a used 400/2.8 and didn't go for the much cheaper 200-400/4.
How can you call this Football. It is throw and catch. We have football in the UK.
We call that soccer. Hey, I don’t make the rules!
I always keep the "Anti-Flicker" off? Why? When using the anti-flicker and in burst mode, the camera will often "stutter" while waiting for the optimum lighting. In the process, the peak event is often missed! Though various stadium/gym lights could flicker due to the 60~CPS, though there is still enough light despite the white balance that can't keep up. Leave the anti-flicker mode in the off mode to ensure all image sequences will be captured and shoot in RAW is best. In post-editing, it is easy to correct for exposure and for any color casting effects. Even if not in burst mode, a shutter press can be delayed long enough to miss the shot that could have been had and later corrected. High school sports are improving to update to LED lighting to avoid uneven exposures during video recording or streaming, while NCAA and Pro venues provide much better lighting conditions for HD television broadcasting.
In the hands of a pro, who understands all this, you have some valid points. However, this video is aimed at beginning to intermediate level photogs. Sports photography forums are full of photos by newer photographers who don’t understand why their series of photos have different shades or light levels, when anti-flicker easily solves their problem.
Cut off feet…yes or no?
It doesn't hurt my feelings. Avoid joints, though.
www.companyfolders.com/blog/cropping-photos
It can be a sensitive topic but have you ever got push back will shooting while the National Anthem is playing?
Not once - except in the comments to this video. Think about the camera crews at nationally televised football games - do they stop for the national anthem? Nope, they get shots of athletes and coaches while the anthem is playing. In my mind, I'm there to record the event, not to be part of it.
Do you ever worry about carrying $1000s of equipment to areas you haven’t ever shot at?
@@dbenedict357 Yes. I have bags and cases that allow you to lock them and cable them to structures.
Just started shooting hs football. Picked up a used D5 and a used 200-400 f4. What’s the max iso you would use for night games? Thanks Jack
With a D5? Probably 25,600 - but that’s with Topaz Denoise and some careful editing.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I actually just picked up topaz. I normally shoot raw but saw folks suggesting jpeg. Thoughts?