Thank you so much for this video!! My high school season is about to start and I wanted to take time to photograph the players on the boys and girls while I’m recovering my injury. I’m glad this video exists!!
Longtime portrait, glamour and fashion photographer here, now venturing into equine and sports. This is exactly the information I was looking for for field shooting. THANK YOU! New subscriber 🙌🏾
Thanks for your tips. I like that your talk about all types of people from people that don’t have the big expensive lenses or the most modern cameras etc. Thanks for all the tips. I’m saving the link.
Thank you Jack! You have byfar become my favorite when searching for photography tips. I appreciate all the time you put into your videos. Much appreciated.
These are great tips! Did some soccer photography over the weekend and realized it's not as easy as I expected! Should h ave watched this video first lol
Thanks for this video Jack, I just upgraded my camera gear to be able to photograph my boy's soccer games and practices. The tips at the end were very helpful and gives me something to practice.
Great tips! Thanks. My husband just bought the Z5 camera for me as a bday gift. Not sure why, I’m not a photographer, and didn’t ask for a camera, but now that I have it, I should learn how to use it. Our daughter plays club soccer. I’d love to take some great shots of her and teammates. My biggest challenge so far, has been learning settings. It’s like a foreign language to me. Do you have a cheat sheet for photographing soccer day games? Also, can you pls list your lense setup for distance shooting? Thank you in advance.
Since you're just getting started in photography, I suggest you watch videos related to basic photography and something called the Exposure Triangle. Here's a TH-cam channel that has excellent explanations on basic photography - th-cam.com/users/WolfAmrivideos. I recommend you go down to his earliest videos from six years ago where he talks about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and how they relate to one another. As far as lenses, soccer is a sport where you rarely have the subject right in front of you - although it does happen. Anything closer, I use a 70-200. For longer reach, I either use a longer zoom (200-500mm or thereabouts) or a longer prime (doesn't zoom) in the 300 or 400mm range. For budget reasons, you might want to consider starting out with the Tamron or Sigma lenses in those approximate zoom ranges. If you are only shooting day games, the costs of those lenses are far less than those needed for lowlight conditions.
After your recommendations in other videos I went broke lol I purchased a 300 F4 and a 200-500 and finally got a 105 these all work sweet on my 4 Nikon bodies..
@@JackBeasleyMedia Yes used of course from that used photo pro place I tried another 3 letter place a few years ago for used gear and 2 lenses they sent that were rated excellent did not even focus.
Thanks Jack, great insights on positioning and techniques. I shoot more indoor sports and football, but have a big soccer game coming up and appreciate the tips as always!
I'm putting soccer back into my photography arsenal this year! I just ordered a manual focus Nikkor ED 300/4.5 AI-S and I'm looking forward to challenging myself.
solid advices for general orientation in getting into sports photography. I would also add, you could shoot in Manual mode (1/1000s +open aperture) and leave the ISO on auto.
Hi Jack. I’m. We to your channel and really enjoying the Vlogs. Some great tips 👍. I amusing an R6 with the Sigma 150 - 600 for my main lens. I’m mostly shooting girls Rugby and getting some great feedback from the parents. Thanks again.
Thank you! Tomorrow I will do my first soccer shoot. The position was the best advice. Actually you gave great advice with all aspects. I feel confident I will succeed! Going to use a D500 and a D810. Not sure which one will be the priority.
Thank you ever so much for these videos. I'd like to think of myself as a fairly competent photographer but I'm learning so much from your videos. On a different note, your number 5 tip about trying to get the ball in the shot? There was a very popular competition back in the day in the UK newspapers called 'spot the ball' You marked up on a photo (where the ball wasn't shown), where you thought the centre of the ball was. It was life changing money prizes at the time. (£250,000) in the early 70's. Anyway, the story goes of a young keen sports photographer, sent to cover his first match. He decided to mimic totally the shooting angles and aim of a seasoned looking guy next to him, only to find out when hundreds of photos had been developed (film only in those days), that he didn't have a single shot with the ball in the frame. Apparently, he'd been copying the shots of the photographer who took the shots for the competition. The ball was always in the least likely place it could be. Anyway. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you once again, I’ve watch many of your videos and always learn a lot. 1) I was wondering if you would ever consider doing one that first shows your unedited photo and then the final product? The reason I ask is in one of your other videos you briefly showed some unedited photos and I suddenly realized although I had thought I was filling the frame I wasn’t coming close to how much of the frame you fill. I also was amazed at how you lifted the color of the player’s jersey in a nighttime football game. I had never thought to play with the color that extent but was very impressed with the results you got. Basically seeing the before and after photos might give others a realistic idea of what is possible to achieve. 2) I’ve got one more question, when you are trying to capture a specific player do you ever photograph into the sun or do you just wait for the second half of the match when they change ends? The other week I was trying to photograph a center back and of course the sun was behind his back but then during the second half I had the AR running back and forth in front of me. I only have a 70-200mm lens so don’t have the option of shooting from the other end of the field. Once again thank you for all your videos they have helped immensely.
Thanks for watching! Yes, I would imagine I can take an image from start to finish, but you're right, I'm usually just talking about specific processes. Yes, I sometimes am forced to shoot into the sun. I just try to avoid it as the colors are so much better when the sun is to your back. By the way, at a soccer game this week, my long telephoto stopped working completely and I was forced to shoot 3/4 of the game with just my 70-200. It can be done, but I had to wait until they were right on top of me to get the shots.
Your sports tips have really helped me photograph my kids over the years. My daughter is in high school now and I really struggled with night games as lighting is just terrible. Even borrowing 300 2.8 last year for a game iso was through the roof. By chance have you ever shot with something like a 135 1.8? I know it’s not idea focal range for soccer but I can help but think that aperture would help a lot. DX crop mode might help bridge a little bit of gap since I’m shooting with 45mp. I’m torn between that and going with used 300 2.8. I’m shooting only for this team so I tend to get to know them well which helps tremendously. Thank you again for your channel.
I think you’re limiting yourself with a 135. I’d consider getting a camera body (used) that does better in low light and get some software that cleans up noise well. I comfortably shoot at ISO 20,000 shooting RAW and processing in DxO Pure Raw 4
@@JackBeasleyMedia I’m already shooting with Z9 and use Topaz (I know you don’t like topaz). I agree shooting with 135mm would be limiting. Even shooting with 2.8 lens I was in 20,000 iso range in second half. Even though used 300 f/2.8 is probably best bang for buck I’m trying to avoid buying a f mount lens if possible. I guess I have more thinking to do about direction I go in. I appreciate your input.
One of the best tips you gave is shooting the goalie during warmups. It may be the only time you get these shots, especially good action shots. I have shot games in which one goalie saw no action at all because his team was that much better than the other :-)
Thanks! I was at a kids game one time where it was a complete blowout. The winning goalie was so bored she walked all the way up to midfield and hung out there for almost the entire second half.
This is awesome thank you and just what I was looking for as I have my first soccer match photography ('football' here in the UK) on Saturday, and your video provided a wealth of help thank you so much. (Just ordered a folding stool!) I'm assuming my Fuji X-T3 with it's amazing 'Pre-Shot' feature will be extremely helpful in catching perfect moments (with 70-300mm f/4-5.6 (105-450mm in 35mm equiv) ) and my Nikon D810 & 70-200 f/2.8 for closer shots. Just hope my aged muscle memory works with two completely diverse cameras! Thank you again!
Thanks for the excellent video Jack. Boy did I wish I had watched it before yesterday!! I was asked to cover a match and to be honest in spite of having a great camera (D5) and the same lens you mentioned (200-500 5.6) I am generally disappointed with the results. I made almost all of the mistakes you mentioned!! One problem I did have is that my other body with 24-70 lens stopped working mysteriously so I just used the long zoom which meant I missed a few goals that were scored close in. The other classic mistake was that I hadn't used the 200-500 on a football match before yesterday. Anyway compliments on the updated video which I will watch again with a note pad to ensure I don't make those mistakes again. One question about covering every player. How do you keep track of that? In the excitement of trying to get great shots and managing the technical side I ended up with a lot of the key players rather than every player involved (although I did get the officials!! lol Thanks again.
To catch as many players as possible, I shoot warmups. They’re all out there then. Also, I make mental notes when I see new faces appear on the field. In addition, if the game is a blowout, coaches on both sides will start rotating in the bench warmers late in the game.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks Jack. Unfortunately the warm ups were different to what I expected, (I played back in England to University level and I've coached in Florida and for 20 years here in California).. Lots of standing around chatting and a few kicking into the goal and no Keeper. He didn't appear until I took the team photo (my best photo of the day!! lol. Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my question. Much appreciated.
Excellent video. I know you mentioned the big primes f2.8 ( 400mm f2.8) but with the new mirrorless full body cameras now available, would a f4 prime do the job. More specifically, I shoot canon and have the r5 and I’m debating to get the canon 400mm f4 as opposed to the 400f2.8. Big difference on weight.
It really depends on the light levels at the fields you are shooting at. I’ve been able to use my 200-500/5.6 at only a couple fields - and that’s because they were professional stadiums. At one point, I seriously considered getting a 100-400/4 instead of the 400/2.8, but I go to some fields where I’d be up around ISO 25,600, which is stretching the limits of my cameras.
Great video again, thanks. Always good to hear even if some are repetition, you always find something new or things you haven't thought of. Question, will you be doing any on Lacrosse. I will be shooting some this spring, and have never done it before. Cannot find any video that actually talks about it unless it is "fashion photos" that apparently Lacrosse is good for:)
Hey Lennie, thanks for watching! I don’t anticipate a lacrosse video this year. It’s not a terribly popular sport here so I rarely photograph it. I will tell you that the few times I have, it resembled soccer in many ways - at least for photos. My only caution is to not get too close to the goal as those small balls come flying in at high speed. Stay near the corners is you’re going to be back there.
Hey Jack, thanks for the videos I have been enjoying them. During a typical soccer game, how many photos do you shoot and how many keepers do you get from that?
It's changed over time. As my available cameras and lenses have modernized and improved, my hit rate has gone up significantly. If I shoot 2000 frames in a game (between two Z9 cameras), probably 25% are useable - and I'm picky about what's considered useable. I only publish perhaps 5-10% in my galleries because of too much duplication or face turned away, etc.
Hello Jack, thank you so much for an excellent video. Just a question though, do you ever shoot photos using live view? I suffer from head tremors so I find it impossible to look through the viewfinder. Would the settings you advised apply to using live view? I have been taking photos of my son’s men’s soccer games. It’s just a hobby I enjoy doing. I use a tamron 70-200 lens on my Nikon d7500 as I’m a beginner but now after you explaining the bigger lens I might just have to buy one of those. Thanks for all your tips, appreciate it 😊👌
@@melissaheironymus6010 No, I never use live view but I learned photography when there was no live view. However, yes it’s possible and I see a lot of younger photographers doing it that way.
Get a used flagship camera that's a couple of generations old. For example, a Nikon D5. Also, buy a used 70-200/2.8. It'll take excellent sports photos but won't have all the bells and whistles of current models.
Always enjoy watching your insightful sports videos Jack. I watch them to start every season. I mainly photograph my kids soccer games. I normally shoot them with 200-500 (I'm a Nikon shooter as well) but we are having a Memorial Day tournament this year and I'm thinking of borrowing a 400mm f/2.8 lens through NPS to shoot it. You mentioned only using yours for night games. I'm hoping to use it to help with backgrounds and a little better isolation of players. Do you think its worth lugging one around all weekend? I know I would be giving up versatility for quality. Do you no use yours for day time games mostly because of the weight and lack of zoom?
I recently sold the 200-500 and picked up a Nikon 120-300/2.8 for the reasons you cited - weight, zoom capability, plus the night capability. It’s a joy to carry around compared to the 400/2.8. Add a 1.4x teleconverter and you have a 168-420mm/f4.
@@JackBeasleyMedia 120-300 is a lot cheaper too. I've heard a lot of great things about that lens as well. Hopefully they will have Z version of it some day.
Thank you, Jack. Lots of information as usual. I found a good spot for youth soccer when I want to get goalie shots - six feet from the corner on the left sideline. You get a prime view of the blocks and the exits seeing the faces of both keeper and striker. Usually I have my full-frame (D850) with the log lens (mine is a Sigma 150-600), but I mount the 70-200 on a crop sensor (D500). Usually I like to shoot manual with the aperture fully open (for bokeh isolation of the subject) shutter at 1000 or faster and auto-ISO. This helped me with changing lighting conditions in different areas of the field (building shadows, trees, etc). I am curious: how many of the frames you take during the game pass the triage and are kept?
Good suggestions! As far as keepers, I’ll shoot about 2000 frames and maybe post about 100. Mind you, a lot of the throwaways are still good, but repetitive.
Shoot f2.8, 1/1000 sec shutter, auto ISO, antiflicker on, auto white balance. Shoot RAW and edit in Lightroom. Use the enhance > denoise function. Good luck!
Great video, Jack. I've been venturing into this genre more over the last year. I'm currently on a Canon 5D Mark IV and use the 70-200. Obviously works for close up action (I'm generally on smaller fields with 7v7 play) but I'm certainly wanting more reach. What's your thoughts on the Sigma 150-600 Sport vs the 60-600 option. I don't think I'll shoot that many in the 60/70 to 150 range, so then150-600 is likely fine for most of the action (unless I'm midfield and the action is right where I'm sitting on the ground). The wider reach of the 60-600 is more tempting. I'm not overly concerned about the cost difference of the two lenses and don't prefer to bring out two cameras to games (at least at this point since it's only a hobby). The 60-600 would seem like the most practical one lens option. I don't plan to shoot at night either. Any thoughts you could share?
I haven't used either lens, so it's hard for me to say. A fellow sports TH-camr did a recent video on the 60-600. Here's the link - th-cam.com/video/T_hEJfGMxAY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lKCfjQ9vOncAYkZH
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks. I actually watched this one a while back. Maybe not souch lens specific question, but what about your thoughts on only taking out a 150-600. You think you would miss much at the less than 150 range?
Hello Jack more questions - I have been shooting a lot of soccer. learning that I struggle to focus at a high level. some times moving can help me refocus or trying to get a shot of a player. doing 2-4 games in a day seems to fry my brain and I shoot more junk or it becomes formulaic and less creative if I'm lucky. . How do you plan your game shooting, move, and take breaks... what do you do to keep your head in the game. Being comfortable, hydrated, and fed were my first steps, now I need some pro tips :)
Thanks for this Jack, I’m new to this so I’m using my phone and some mobile rig attachments to help me get action shots. Not the same as a high end camera but what I’ve got right now. Would love any tips. I’m working with Sandmarc lenses and I have a long lens I found in Amazon to get more close up shots.
I've been shooting with my D4S and the one thing that I love to do is use the in-camera prop mode with my sigma 120 to 300 2.8. I find it extends the range a lot as if you're putting on a teleconverter but also I'm still allowed to use the 2.8 now you do lose megapixels but if you're going to be dropping in post, you're losing those megapixels there. I'd rather not have to crop and post if I can help it
Hi Jack, I can always reference any of your video’s for a useful tip and tricks. I’m a Nikon shooter and I primarily shoot my son’s games. I currently use a D600 and a D7200 during the games. Shooting at European soccer venues is very challenging; you have different backgrounds and low lights which can affect your metering, as well as the weather conditions. On a sunny day, my settings are (D600) F 5.6, 200/500, S 1250, ISO 400/Auto and (D7200) f4.0, 70-200, f5.6 or 6.3, S, 1250 & ISO 300 depending on the weather. The issue I face is my auto white balance. With the condition I face, what is the best WB I should be using? I shoot in Jpeg, but trying to recovery the skin tone in postprocessing with these conditions can be challenging. I’ve lost my trust in using the auto WB. If I do a reading with a consistent lighting before the game, I don’t know what’s going to happen by the time the game is over…I’ve often ended us a bunch of orange faces…What is your secret?
I used to be a big advocate of jpeg because of the in-camera noise reduction for night and low light photography. Since Topaz Denoise improved significantly for RAW images, I've switched to RAW for nearly everything. I think if you go RAW, you'll find it much easier to clean up those images. You'll still run into problem lighting conditions that will test your editing skills, but RAW has much greater latitude for adjustment. Moreover, in your case, you might want to regularly check how your WB is doing in camera throughout the game if the lighting keeps changing. If possible, make adjustments as you go.
Great video thanks! Baseball season is getting ready to start! I shoot with a D5 and D7200 at the moment. I wondered if you have any advice on purchasing the 80-400 or the 200-500. I have shoot with the 200-500 and it is a great lens, but alternatively the 80mm offered by the 80-400 is wide enough for close action rather than 200mm.
That’s why I double up with a 70-200 and the 200-500. Having said that, I rarely touch my 70-200 for baseball. Actually, I think the 500 is a little short for plays across the infield - 400 would be worse.
Hi, really good video! I am filmmaker (I take photos too) for an argentinian club. Nowadays I am using 70-200 f4, but I would like to get a bigger range. I am thinking of a 100-400 f5-6.3. Do you think is good enough? Light at this particular football stadium if good at night, so I think that shouldnt be a problem.
Great info...I'm watching a lot of your videos now so I can improve my sports photography. Both my kids play soccer and my daughter also plays softball. Anyways...I currently shoot a D850. I know it's not the best sports camera but it's what I have. I am really feeling the limitations of my 70-200 on the soccer field so I'm looking for more reach. The Nikon 200-500 sounds like a potential winner but I've been told that there are some weird issues that cause the D850 and the 200-500 to not play nice with each other in some cases. Do you have any knowledge about these potential problems? Do you have any thoughts on the 150-600 Sigma or Tamron lenses vs. the Nikon 200-500? Or the Nikon 200-400 f/4? It's bit more than the others but if the performance justifies the cost difference...then I would certainly consider it if funds allow.
I used to own a D850 and I never had any issues while combined with the Nikon 200-500/5.6. For daylight sports, the 200-500 is great. I just used it for a golf tournament (on a Z6ii). The Nikon 200-400/4 is also very good, but it gets sketchy at night with low light fields. As far as Tamrons and Sigmas, I haven't used a lens from either one in years so I can't speak from experience. I suggest you look for some reviews from people you trust - people who actually paid for them.
Love your stuff... you being an AZ guy... I think you can help me with HOT artificial turf fields... I imagine you get this when you shoot running sports on the roads... in the heat of the day, it's hard to get down low and get sharp, due to the mirage effect off the ground. I'm moving myself to reduce the hot air between me and the subject, Messing with pan blur shots, resorting to standing shots, looking to get high up... what am I missing? should I just put the long lens away and stop fighting mother nature... go have a beer and wait for better light and temp... lol ? does really cranking up the speed 4000ths help? any tips for post ? Raw seems best as I can tweak more, I take a typical shot for that game, monkey with stuff, and make a base preset for that light and mirage state.... de-haze+contrast helps but topaz seems to make the kids look like they are wearing crazy make-up on default. lol Thanks
Yes, the farther you are away from the subject, the more likely you are to experience the heat mirage effect. Basically, I just try to get closer to the subject and use shorter lenses. I don't know that very high shutter speeds would make a difference. As far as editing - if I've got an image that's too troublesome, I hit delete and move on. I have a lot more where that came from. I don't know that the Topaz products will completely fix it, although maybe the Sharpen can clean up some of the movement blur. And yes, too much Topaz and you can get weird artifacts and a painting effect.
Interesting video, but it would have been more interesting and useful if the images you inserted in the video would have written the information about the shot, with which optics etc. etc....
What about using "Shutter drag" technique for shooting Soccer? Have you tried it with any luck? Seems like it would be quite difficult, but possibly with interesting results.
Thanks Jack! Great advice. On the sales side having recently moved from hobby to part time business…it appears that the older the players the less sales. Is that an anomaly or what you see as well? I am thinking the high school age and older have a zillion pictures already and/or they are happy with a iPhone screenshot even with watermark. How many individual sales from a game do you consider a good number? Appreciate any insight here.
It depends on a lot of factors. Smaller schools that don't get much attention tend to sell pretty well. Big schools that are always in the playoffs have tons of photos already of their kids. Frosh and JV games tend to sell as well as varsity. Other factors - schools that have momtogs or dadtogs who are giving away images for free. Another sales killer - a pro photog that's joined at the hip to a particular school and all the kids know they can get photos from them. I have two schools I completely avoid for that very reason.
Hello Jack! My name is Philip and im an Freelance photographer in Sweden and i primarly shoot Soccer, Wildlife or News. I was wondering if i could send a few soccer pictures ive taken and edited for you to give some feedback. Im shooting mostly my friends soccer team and their games:)
can't you use the dx mode on something like a z8 with a 70-200? Wouldn't that give you a little bit more reach without having to go with a longer lens?
The idea of "reach" is a fallacy. All you are doing is cropping in on the sensor, which gives you the visual representation of it being zoomed in. You achieve the same effect by shooting in FX mode and cropping heavily in editing. That technique is fine with bright, sunlit images which have little noise. But when you're at night with high ISO, it significantly degrades the image quality.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I'm thinking about picking it up to shoot my daughter's local inter-league games. I'm expecting the games to be played in the middle of the day.
I am struggling with AF and getting the focus on my son specifically rather than whoever is closest to the camera? Is there anything I can do to make sure my son is the one in focus?
@@JackBeasleyMedia I use the Sony a7r5. So I would use focus point rather then wide or zone? I tired using wide/zone at a run the other day and the focus boxes where all over the place.
Have you ever had trouble with ball being kinda oval/egg shaped? I was shooting at 1/1000 on a 200-500 Nikon. Never had this happen with my 70-200. Thanks for any info.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I’m gonna try to up the shutter. It was only weird shaped when catching the ball from a player’s shot. Before kick and even in goalie’s hands the ball looks perfect. Appreciate you responding and love the videos!
I just had my first game and it was abysmal. Im used to shoot handball where they serve you all the good shots on a silver plate for you to just pick em... Soccer is hard by comparison. especially if you have no real interest in the sport 😅 first game was crap, second will be better 😋
f5.6 is not only about good light or not. With f5.6, you have a bad background separation. If you have a 400mm use it. The difference from 400 to 500m is not to lose f2.8 Let the camera choose the aperture? Hell no, I want controll my background separation. If you really want good pictures, go fully manual. Ok ISO auto with a fixed area
Due to the number of emails, phone calls, DMs, etc. that I get asking for advice, I have to limit my contacts to business-related inquiries. Having said that, I offer virtual mentoring on my website - jackbeasley.com/appointments. Scroll down to the bottom and click on "virtual mentoring" to set up an appointment.
Thank you so much for this video!! My high school season is about to start and I wanted to take time to photograph the players on the boys and girls while I’m recovering my injury. I’m glad this video exists!!
Thanks for watching!
Longtime portrait, glamour and fashion photographer here, now venturing into equine and sports. This is exactly the information I was looking for for field shooting. THANK YOU!
New subscriber 🙌🏾
Thanks for your tips. I like that your talk about all types of people from people that don’t have the big expensive lenses or the most modern cameras etc. Thanks for all the tips. I’m saving the link.
Fantastic video. The suggestion about the keeper warmup is gold.
Glad you liked it!
That's the best video about shooting football. Thank you very much. When I have added warm ups to my photos instantly the whole series became better.
Thank you Jack! You have byfar become my favorite when searching for photography tips. I appreciate all the time you put into your videos. Much appreciated.
Thank you! I appreciate that!
These are great tips! Did some soccer photography over the weekend and realized it's not as easy as I expected! Should h ave watched this video first lol
Thanks for watching!
Great video, Jack. Wish there were useful videos like these when I started shooting football (soccer) around 9 years ago.
Nice information and tips. thank you.
Thanks for this video Jack, I just upgraded my camera gear to be able to photograph my boy's soccer games and practices. The tips at the end were very helpful and gives me something to practice.
Great tips! Thanks. My husband just bought the Z5 camera for me as a bday gift. Not sure why, I’m not a photographer, and didn’t ask for a camera, but now that I have it, I should learn how to use it. Our daughter plays club soccer. I’d love to take some great shots of her and teammates. My biggest challenge so far, has been learning settings. It’s like a foreign language to me. Do you have a cheat sheet for photographing soccer day games? Also, can you pls list your lense setup for distance shooting? Thank you in advance.
Since you're just getting started in photography, I suggest you watch videos related to basic photography and something called the Exposure Triangle. Here's a TH-cam channel that has excellent explanations on basic photography - th-cam.com/users/WolfAmrivideos. I recommend you go down to his earliest videos from six years ago where he talks about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and how they relate to one another.
As far as lenses, soccer is a sport where you rarely have the subject right in front of you - although it does happen. Anything closer, I use a 70-200. For longer reach, I either use a longer zoom (200-500mm or thereabouts) or a longer prime (doesn't zoom) in the 300 or 400mm range. For budget reasons, you might want to consider starting out with the Tamron or Sigma lenses in those approximate zoom ranges. If you are only shooting day games, the costs of those lenses are far less than those needed for lowlight conditions.
Make sure you turn on Auto-ISO to eliminate worrying about 1 of the 3 exposure triangle points! Makes life a LOT easier
After your recommendations in other videos I went broke lol I purchased a 300 F4 and a 200-500 and finally got a 105 these all work sweet on my 4 Nikon bodies..
LOL, good for you!
@@JackBeasleyMedia Yes used of course from that used photo pro place I tried another 3 letter place a few years ago for used gear and 2 lenses they sent that were rated excellent did not even focus.
you're extremely helpful for me, a hobbyist photographer of four years
Glad I could help!
This was a fantastic video with so much practical advice...thank you so much!
Thanks Jack, great insights on positioning and techniques. I shoot more indoor sports and football, but have a big soccer game coming up and appreciate the tips as always!
I'm putting soccer back into my photography arsenal this year! I just ordered a manual focus Nikkor ED 300/4.5 AI-S and I'm looking forward to challenging myself.
That will be a challenge! I haven't shot sports with a manual focus lens since 1989.
solid advices for general orientation in getting into sports photography. I would also add, you could shoot in Manual mode (1/1000s +open aperture) and leave the ISO on auto.
Thanks for posting this. A great refresher!
Great advice ! Very useful video, thanks '😊
Hi Jack. I’m. We to your channel and really enjoying the Vlogs. Some great tips 👍. I amusing an R6 with the Sigma 150 - 600 for my main lens. I’m mostly shooting girls Rugby and getting some great feedback from the parents. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Tomorrow I will do my first soccer shoot. The position was the best advice. Actually you gave great advice with all aspects. I feel confident I will succeed! Going to use a D500 and a D810. Not sure which one will be the priority.
Thanks for watching, and good luck!
hey man thank you for the vid!!! that 11k lens is insane 😣😣 lmao was not expecting that when i hit the link
Thank you ever so much for these videos. I'd like to think of myself as a fairly competent photographer but I'm learning so much from your videos. On a different note, your number 5 tip about trying to get the ball in the shot? There was a very popular competition back in the day in the UK newspapers called 'spot the ball' You marked up on a photo (where the ball wasn't shown), where you thought the centre of the ball was. It was life changing money prizes at the time. (£250,000) in the early 70's. Anyway, the story goes of a young keen sports photographer, sent to cover his first match. He decided to mimic totally the shooting angles and aim of a seasoned looking guy next to him, only to find out when hundreds of photos had been developed (film only in those days), that he didn't have a single shot with the ball in the frame. Apparently, he'd been copying the shots of the photographer who took the shots for the competition. The ball was always in the least likely place it could be. Anyway. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you once again, I’ve watch many of your videos and always learn a lot. 1) I was wondering if you would ever consider doing one that first shows your unedited photo and then the final product? The reason I ask is in one of your other videos you briefly showed some unedited photos and I suddenly realized although I had thought I was filling the frame I wasn’t coming close to how much of the frame you fill. I also was amazed at how you lifted the color of the player’s jersey in a nighttime football game. I had never thought to play with the color that extent but was very impressed with the results you got. Basically seeing the before and after photos might give others a realistic idea of what is possible to achieve. 2) I’ve got one more question, when you are trying to capture a specific player do you ever photograph into the sun or do you just wait for the second half of the match when they change ends? The other week I was trying to photograph a center back and of course the sun was behind his back but then during the second half I had the AR running back and forth in front of me. I only have a 70-200mm lens so don’t have the option of shooting from the other end of the field. Once again thank you for all your videos they have helped immensely.
Thanks for watching! Yes, I would imagine I can take an image from start to finish, but you're right, I'm usually just talking about specific processes. Yes, I sometimes am forced to shoot into the sun. I just try to avoid it as the colors are so much better when the sun is to your back. By the way, at a soccer game this week, my long telephoto stopped working completely and I was forced to shoot 3/4 of the game with just my 70-200. It can be done, but I had to wait until they were right on top of me to get the shots.
Thanks for the soccer tips Jack. Good tips as always.
Any time!
Your sports tips have really helped me photograph my kids over the years. My daughter is in high school now and I really struggled with night games as lighting is just terrible. Even borrowing 300 2.8 last year for a game iso was through the roof. By chance have you ever shot with something like a 135 1.8? I know it’s not idea focal range for soccer but I can help but think that aperture would help a lot. DX crop mode might help bridge a little bit of gap since I’m shooting with 45mp. I’m torn between that and going with used 300 2.8. I’m shooting only for this team so I tend to get to know them well which helps tremendously. Thank you again for your channel.
I think you’re limiting yourself with a 135. I’d consider getting a camera body (used) that does better in low light and get some software that cleans up noise well. I comfortably shoot at ISO 20,000 shooting RAW and processing in DxO Pure Raw 4
@@JackBeasleyMedia I’m already shooting with Z9 and use Topaz (I know you don’t like topaz). I agree shooting with 135mm would be limiting. Even shooting with 2.8 lens I was in 20,000 iso range in second half. Even though used 300 f/2.8 is probably best bang for buck I’m trying to avoid buying a f mount lens if possible. I guess I have more thinking to do about direction I go in. I appreciate your input.
Good tips for almost any kind of photography or video.
Great tips. Thank you.
Thank you Jack...great video.
Thanks for watching!
Great stuff as always,Jack. Looking forward to your next one.
More to come!
One of the best tips you gave is shooting the goalie during warmups. It may be the only time you get these shots, especially good action shots. I have shot games in which one goalie saw no action at all because his team was that much better than the other :-)
Thanks! I was at a kids game one time where it was a complete blowout. The winning goalie was so bored she walked all the way up to midfield and hung out there for almost the entire second half.
Such a good tip!!!
This is awesome thank you and just what I was looking for as I have my first soccer match photography ('football' here in the UK) on Saturday, and your video provided a wealth of help thank you so much. (Just ordered a folding stool!) I'm assuming my Fuji X-T3 with it's amazing 'Pre-Shot' feature will be extremely helpful in catching perfect moments (with 70-300mm f/4-5.6 (105-450mm in 35mm equiv) ) and my Nikon D810 & 70-200 f/2.8 for closer shots. Just hope my aged muscle memory works with two completely diverse cameras! Thank you again!
thanks, glad I could help!
Thanks for the excellent video Jack. Boy did I wish I had watched it before yesterday!! I was asked to cover a match and to be honest in spite of having a great camera (D5) and the same lens you mentioned (200-500 5.6) I am generally disappointed with the results. I made almost all of the mistakes you mentioned!! One problem I did have is that my other body with 24-70 lens stopped working mysteriously so I just used the long zoom which meant I missed a few goals that were scored close in. The other classic mistake was that I hadn't used the 200-500 on a football match before yesterday. Anyway compliments on the updated video which I will watch again with a note pad to ensure I don't make those mistakes again. One question about covering every player. How do you keep track of that? In the excitement of trying to get great shots and managing the technical side I ended up with a lot of the key players rather than every player involved (although I did get the officials!! lol Thanks again.
To catch as many players as possible, I shoot warmups. They’re all out there then. Also, I make mental notes when I see new faces appear on the field. In addition, if the game is a blowout, coaches on both sides will start rotating in the bench warmers late in the game.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks Jack. Unfortunately the warm ups were different to what I expected, (I played back in England to University level and I've coached in Florida and for 20 years here in California).. Lots of standing around chatting and a few kicking into the goal and no Keeper. He didn't appear until I took the team photo (my best photo of the day!! lol. Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my question. Much appreciated.
Excellent video. I know you mentioned the big primes f2.8 ( 400mm f2.8) but with the new mirrorless full body cameras now available, would a f4 prime do the job. More specifically, I shoot canon and have the r5 and I’m debating to get the canon 400mm f4 as opposed to the 400f2.8. Big difference on weight.
It really depends on the light levels at the fields you are shooting at. I’ve been able to use my 200-500/5.6 at only a couple fields - and that’s because they were professional stadiums. At one point, I seriously considered getting a 100-400/4 instead of the 400/2.8, but I go to some fields where I’d be up around ISO 25,600, which is stretching the limits of my cameras.
Thanks for this video! Lots of great information
Thanks!
Nice video, thank you for them advices
Great video again, thanks. Always good to hear even if some are repetition, you always find something new or things you haven't thought of. Question, will you be doing any on Lacrosse. I will be shooting some this spring, and have never done it before. Cannot find any video that actually talks about it unless it is "fashion photos" that apparently Lacrosse is good for:)
Hey Lennie, thanks for watching! I don’t anticipate a lacrosse video this year. It’s not a terribly popular sport here so I rarely photograph it. I will tell you that the few times I have, it resembled soccer in many ways - at least for photos. My only caution is to not get too close to the goal as those small balls come flying in at high speed. Stay near the corners is you’re going to be back there.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Still a great answer, I need to think about this with not standing behind the goal:) Thanks!
love this video so much , thank you,Question? Do you use single point auto focus or multiple points
Multiple
This is great sir
And helpful ❤❤
Hey Jack, thanks for the videos I have been enjoying them. During a typical soccer game, how many photos do you shoot and how many keepers do you get from that?
It's changed over time. As my available cameras and lenses have modernized and improved, my hit rate has gone up significantly. If I shoot 2000 frames in a game (between two Z9 cameras), probably 25% are useable - and I'm picky about what's considered useable. I only publish perhaps 5-10% in my galleries because of too much duplication or face turned away, etc.
Very helpful, thanks!
You're welcome!
Thanks a lot Jack
Very helpful video! 👍🏽
Hello Jack, thank you so much for an excellent video. Just a question though, do you ever shoot photos using live view? I suffer from head tremors so I find it impossible to look through the viewfinder. Would the settings you advised apply to using live view? I have been taking photos of my son’s men’s soccer games. It’s just a hobby I enjoy doing. I use a tamron 70-200 lens on my Nikon d7500 as I’m a beginner but now after you explaining the bigger lens I might just have to buy one of those. Thanks for all your tips, appreciate it 😊👌
@@melissaheironymus6010 No, I never use live view but I learned photography when there was no live view. However, yes it’s possible and I see a lot of younger photographers doing it that way.
Hey, Jack, what are a few camera recommendations you would give for a beginner sports photographer and lenses
Get a used flagship camera that's a couple of generations old. For example, a Nikon D5. Also, buy a used 70-200/2.8. It'll take excellent sports photos but won't have all the bells and whistles of current models.
Always enjoy watching your insightful sports videos Jack. I watch them to start every season. I mainly photograph my kids soccer games. I normally shoot them with 200-500 (I'm a Nikon shooter as well) but we are having a Memorial Day tournament this year and I'm thinking of borrowing a 400mm f/2.8 lens through NPS to shoot it. You mentioned only using yours for night games. I'm hoping to use it to help with backgrounds and a little better isolation of players. Do you think its worth lugging one around all weekend? I know I would be giving up versatility for quality. Do you no use yours for day time games mostly because of the weight and lack of zoom?
I recently sold the 200-500 and picked up a Nikon 120-300/2.8 for the reasons you cited - weight, zoom capability, plus the night capability. It’s a joy to carry around compared to the 400/2.8. Add a 1.4x teleconverter and you have a 168-420mm/f4.
@@JackBeasleyMedia 120-300 is a lot cheaper too. I've heard a lot of great things about that lens as well. Hopefully they will have Z version of it some day.
Thank you, Jack. Lots of information as usual.
I found a good spot for youth soccer when I want to get goalie shots - six feet from the corner on the left sideline. You get a prime view of the blocks and the exits seeing the faces of both keeper and striker.
Usually I have my full-frame (D850) with the log lens (mine is a Sigma 150-600), but I mount the 70-200 on a crop sensor (D500). Usually I like to shoot manual with the aperture fully open (for bokeh isolation of the subject) shutter at 1000 or faster and auto-ISO. This helped me with changing lighting conditions in different areas of the field (building shadows, trees, etc). I am curious: how many of the frames you take during the game pass the triage and are kept?
Good suggestions! As far as keepers, I’ll shoot about 2000 frames and maybe post about 100. Mind you, a lot of the throwaways are still good, but repetitive.
Hello! I am new to sports photography do you have any tips for shooting in low light fields. I am a canon user with a 70-200lens f2.8
Shoot f2.8, 1/1000 sec shutter, auto ISO, antiflicker on, auto white balance. Shoot RAW and edit in Lightroom. Use the enhance > denoise function. Good luck!
Thank you!!! Great tips I love your videos!!!
I agree on the 70-200 lens.
Great video, Jack. I've been venturing into this genre more over the last year. I'm currently on a Canon 5D Mark IV and use the 70-200. Obviously works for close up action (I'm generally on smaller fields with 7v7 play) but I'm certainly wanting more reach. What's your thoughts on the Sigma 150-600 Sport vs the 60-600 option. I don't think I'll shoot that many in the 60/70 to 150 range, so then150-600 is likely fine for most of the action (unless I'm midfield and the action is right where I'm sitting on the ground). The wider reach of the 60-600 is more tempting. I'm not overly concerned about the cost difference of the two lenses and don't prefer to bring out two cameras to games (at least at this point since it's only a hobby). The 60-600 would seem like the most practical one lens option. I don't plan to shoot at night either. Any thoughts you could share?
I haven't used either lens, so it's hard for me to say. A fellow sports TH-camr did a recent video on the 60-600. Here's the link - th-cam.com/video/T_hEJfGMxAY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lKCfjQ9vOncAYkZH
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks. I actually watched this one a while back. Maybe not souch lens specific question, but what about your thoughts on only taking out a 150-600. You think you would miss much at the less than 150 range?
@kelencamehl I wouldn’t think so. I regularly put a 1.4x teleconverter on my 120-300 which makes it a 168-420. Works great.
Hello Jack more questions - I have been shooting a lot of soccer. learning that I struggle to focus at a high level. some times moving can help me refocus or trying to get a shot of a player. doing 2-4 games in a day seems to fry my brain and I shoot more junk or it becomes formulaic and less creative if I'm lucky. . How do you plan your game shooting, move, and take breaks... what do you do to keep your head in the game. Being comfortable, hydrated, and fed were my first steps, now I need some pro tips :)
Thanks for this Jack, I’m new to this so I’m using my phone and some mobile rig attachments to help me get action shots. Not the same as a high end camera but what I’ve got right now. Would love any tips. I’m working with Sandmarc lenses and I have a long lens I found in Amazon to get more close up shots.
Great work sir
thanks!
I've been shooting with my D4S and the one thing that I love to do is use the in-camera prop mode with my sigma 120 to 300 2.8. I find it extends the range a lot as if you're putting on a teleconverter but also I'm still allowed to use the 2.8 now you do lose megapixels but if you're going to be dropping in post, you're losing those megapixels there. I'd rather not have to crop and post if I can help it
Hi Jack,
I can always reference any of your video’s for a useful tip and tricks.
I’m a Nikon shooter and I primarily shoot my son’s games. I currently use a D600 and a D7200 during the games. Shooting at European soccer venues is very challenging; you have different backgrounds and low lights which can affect your metering, as well as the weather conditions.
On a sunny day, my settings are (D600) F 5.6, 200/500, S 1250, ISO 400/Auto and (D7200) f4.0, 70-200, f5.6 or 6.3, S, 1250 & ISO 300 depending on the weather. The issue I face is my auto white balance. With the condition I face, what is the best WB I should be using?
I shoot in Jpeg, but trying to recovery the skin tone in postprocessing with these conditions can be challenging. I’ve lost my trust in using the
auto WB. If I do a reading with a consistent lighting before the game, I don’t know what’s going to happen by the time the game is over…I’ve often ended us a bunch of orange faces…What is your secret?
I used to be a big advocate of jpeg because of the in-camera noise reduction for night and low light photography. Since Topaz Denoise improved significantly for RAW images, I've switched to RAW for nearly everything. I think if you go RAW, you'll find it much easier to clean up those images. You'll still run into problem lighting conditions that will test your editing skills, but RAW has much greater latitude for adjustment. Moreover, in your case, you might want to regularly check how your WB is doing in camera throughout the game if the lighting keeps changing. If possible, make adjustments as you go.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thx Jack, something you feel like you're losing the will to live..
Great video thanks! Baseball season is getting ready to start! I shoot with a D5 and D7200 at the moment. I wondered if you have any advice on purchasing the 80-400 or the 200-500. I have shoot with the 200-500 and it is a great lens, but alternatively the 80mm offered by the 80-400 is wide enough for close action rather than 200mm.
That’s why I double up with a 70-200 and the 200-500. Having said that, I rarely touch my 70-200 for baseball. Actually, I think the 500 is a little short for plays across the infield - 400 would be worse.
Great stuff!
Thanks!
Excellent Video
Thank you very much!
Great Video!!
Thank you!
I love the way you use American football terminology for the beautiful game 😆
I’m an American, what do you expect?
@@JackBeasleyMedia fair do’s 😂😂😂 I photographed two amateur games this weekend. The most common heard word in football is……….ref, ref,ref! 🤪
Hi, really good video! I am filmmaker (I take photos too) for an argentinian club. Nowadays I am using 70-200 f4, but I would like to get a bigger range. I am thinking of a 100-400 f5-6.3. Do you think is good enough? Light at this particular football stadium if good at night, so I think that shouldnt be a problem.
I haven’t been on a football field yet, including pro-level, that I would shoot sports with an f6.3. At best, f4.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thank you! so between a 100-400 f5-6.3 or a 70-200 f2.8, which one would you recommend?
If you’re doing these games at night, I’d start with the 70-200. If they are in the daylight, the 100-400
Sir, which camera model are you using?
Today, Nikon Z9 and Nikon D5
Great info...I'm watching a lot of your videos now so I can improve my sports photography. Both my kids play soccer and my daughter also plays softball. Anyways...I currently shoot a D850. I know it's not the best sports camera but it's what I have. I am really feeling the limitations of my 70-200 on the soccer field so I'm looking for more reach. The Nikon 200-500 sounds like a potential winner but I've been told that there are some weird issues that cause the D850 and the 200-500 to not play nice with each other in some cases. Do you have any knowledge about these potential problems? Do you have any thoughts on the 150-600 Sigma or Tamron lenses vs. the Nikon 200-500? Or the Nikon 200-400 f/4? It's bit more than the others but if the performance justifies the cost difference...then I would certainly consider it if funds allow.
I used to own a D850 and I never had any issues while combined with the Nikon 200-500/5.6. For daylight sports, the 200-500 is great. I just used it for a golf tournament (on a Z6ii). The Nikon 200-400/4 is also very good, but it gets sketchy at night with low light fields. As far as Tamrons and Sigmas, I haven't used a lens from either one in years so I can't speak from experience. I suggest you look for some reviews from people you trust - people who actually paid for them.
Hi jack
I owned Nikon D3400. Would nikon 200-500mm f5.6 sports lens work for my camera? I've enjoyed your videos.
Hi Sarah, yes, it will work. Thanks for watching!
Love your stuff... you being an AZ guy... I think you can help me with HOT artificial turf fields... I imagine you get this when you shoot running sports on the roads... in the heat of the day, it's hard to get down low and get sharp, due to the mirage effect off the ground. I'm moving myself to reduce the hot air between me and the subject, Messing with pan blur shots, resorting to standing shots, looking to get high up... what am I missing? should I just put the long lens away and stop fighting mother nature... go have a beer and wait for better light and temp... lol ? does really cranking up the speed 4000ths help? any tips for post ? Raw seems best as I can tweak more, I take a typical shot for that game, monkey with stuff, and make a base preset for that light and mirage state.... de-haze+contrast helps but topaz seems to make the kids look like they are wearing crazy make-up on default. lol Thanks
Yes, the farther you are away from the subject, the more likely you are to experience the heat mirage effect. Basically, I just try to get closer to the subject and use shorter lenses. I don't know that very high shutter speeds would make a difference. As far as editing - if I've got an image that's too troublesome, I hit delete and move on. I have a lot more where that came from. I don't know that the Topaz products will completely fix it, although maybe the Sharpen can clean up some of the movement blur. And yes, too much Topaz and you can get weird artifacts and a painting effect.
Interesting video, but it would have been more interesting and useful if the images you inserted in the video would have written the information about the shot, with which optics etc. etc....
What about using "Shutter drag" technique for shooting Soccer? Have you tried it with any luck? Seems like it would be quite difficult, but possibly with interesting results.
I haven’t tried it. I’d be curious why kind of results you get.
I've been using 55-250 MK i and Sigma 105 2.8 macro
Thanks Jack! Great advice. On the sales side having recently moved from hobby to part time business…it appears that the older the players the less sales. Is that an anomaly or what you see as well? I am thinking the high school age and older have a zillion pictures already and/or they are happy with a iPhone screenshot even with watermark. How many individual sales from a game do you consider a good number? Appreciate any insight here.
It depends on a lot of factors. Smaller schools that don't get much attention tend to sell pretty well. Big schools that are always in the playoffs have tons of photos already of their kids. Frosh and JV games tend to sell as well as varsity. Other factors - schools that have momtogs or dadtogs who are giving away images for free. Another sales killer - a pro photog that's joined at the hip to a particular school and all the kids know they can get photos from them. I have two schools I completely avoid for that very reason.
@@JackBeasleyMedia great insight…thanks for sharing!
Hello Jack! My name is Philip and im an Freelance photographer in Sweden and i primarly shoot Soccer, Wildlife or News. I was wondering if i could send a few soccer pictures ive taken and edited for you to give some feedback. Im shooting mostly my friends soccer team and their games:)
I plan to do some photo reviews in the future. You can send them to photoreview@proton.me
can't you use the dx mode on something like a z8 with a 70-200? Wouldn't that give you a little bit more reach without having to go with a longer lens?
The idea of "reach" is a fallacy. All you are doing is cropping in on the sensor, which gives you the visual representation of it being zoomed in. You achieve the same effect by shooting in FX mode and cropping heavily in editing. That technique is fine with bright, sunlit images which have little noise. But when you're at night with high ISO, it significantly degrades the image quality.
What do you think about using the Sigma 60-600mm F4.5-6.3 for shooting soccer?
As long it’s a day game, you should be good. Night games are going to be rough with that aperture:
@@JackBeasleyMedia I'm thinking about picking it up to shoot my daughter's local inter-league games. I'm expecting the games to be played in the middle of the day.
Good luck!
JACK 당신이 알려준 방법은 한국 고등학교 축구팀 촬영에도 적용될 것 같습니다. 내일 경기 촬영하는데 많은 도움이 될 것 같습니다. Thank you very much! JACK
Do you use a monopod with your big zoom or primes when shooting from a sitting or kneeling position
Yes, they're too heavy to handhold - especially the 400/2.8. The 200-500/5.6 isn't too bad.
What system do you use to share photos with the team?
If it’s free (donation) or pre-paid I send them a Google drive link. If it’s for digital or print sales, I use SmugMug.
Amazingggggg!
I am struggling with AF and getting the focus on my son specifically rather than whoever is closest to the camera? Is there anything I can do to make sure my son is the one in focus?
The focusing point is where the camera focuses, so you have to work to keep it on him.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I use the Sony a7r5. So I would use focus point rather then wide or zone? I tired using wide/zone at a run the other day and the focus boxes where all over the place.
@@josephinevera9966 I've never used that camera, however, I would use one of the smaller AF boxes, points, groups, etc. than a wide or zone.
show!!!!
Have you ever had trouble with ball being kinda oval/egg shaped? I was shooting at 1/1000 on a 200-500 Nikon. Never had this happen with my 70-200. Thanks for any info.
Hmm. No, I don't think I have.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I’m gonna try to up the shutter. It was only weird shaped when catching the ball from a player’s shot. Before kick and even in goalie’s hands the ball looks perfect. Appreciate you responding and love the videos!
Jesus love you all❤️✝️
I try to shoot from the side that the AR is not on
I just had my first game and it was abysmal. Im used to shoot handball where they serve you all the good shots on a silver plate for you to just pick em... Soccer is hard by comparison. especially if you have no real interest in the sport 😅 first game was crap, second will be better 😋
f5.6 is not only about good light or not. With f5.6, you have a bad background separation. If you have a 400mm use it. The difference from 400 to 500m is not to lose f2.8
Let the camera choose the aperture? Hell no, I want controll my background separation. If you really want good pictures, go fully manual. Ok ISO auto with a fixed area
Still learning but this was helpful bro thank u
I will need more tips from u sir
Kindly requesting for your Email address sir 🙏🙏
Due to the number of emails, phone calls, DMs, etc. that I get asking for advice, I have to limit my contacts to business-related inquiries. Having said that, I offer virtual mentoring on my website - jackbeasley.com/appointments. Scroll down to the bottom and click on "virtual mentoring" to set up an appointment.