I'm pretty handy and I never even thought you could build butcher block... dont ask me how I thought it was made, I guess I never thought that far into it. Either way you just saved me a ton of money or at least some... off to buy the planer and wood now :D
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Nice, yeah I love that tite bond ultra glue. Probably going to take this on tomorrow. Will try to find the clearest 2x's to avoid knots but yours turned out good 👍
I would recommend buying a 10 inch board and ripping that your self if you have a table saw or something. You would be able to get much straighter boards that way
Great work, This is something I think I can do. I want to make a Caft tabletop so this would be perfect. Can you please tell me what is the size wood you use? I would truly appreciate.
Thank you for your video, so helpful! I am a beginner and want to build one for my kitchen. What types of wood could I use to add some variation in color? Would cherry add some pink into it? Also what size dimensions?
It’s a butcher block cause of the style of it ? Cause in world would it make sense to make butcher block out of pine. But if it’s for garage use only it’s cool
I have disassembled glue joints glued on only one side "with plenty of glue.". You would be surprised at the lack of coverage. High stress applications like this should have plenty of glue on BOTH surfaces.
@@Ben.Builds. or you can just make sure its secured to a frame beneath the counter top. dowels are unnecessary unless you don't plan on putting any support underneath
Then you didn’t watch the entire video. He not only showed himself sanding, but told us the different grits he was using as well. Sanding starts at 3:50….
I have a question. I have 60"inch x 30"in butcher block, I used it as a desk top. I want to remove 2 boards (ei: to reduce the width from 30"inch down to 27". is this a fairly easy process? what basic tools would i need?
Circular saw would be the best combination of cheapest/ easiest. To make it really clean, buy a long straight edge and some clamps too, but you COULD freehand follow a drawn on line with the circular saw. Clamp the straight edge to the butcher block, taking into account the offset of the edge of the circular saw to the blade. Then go for it!
Hi, thank you for the video. Excuse my inexperience and lack of knowledge. If i use pine wood and do.all this in the video how can i make the finish look gray in color instead of poly urethane? Im attempting to do diy kitchen island countertop approx 5ftx 4ft area. I dont want to paint the wood. Is there a gray stain? If there is do you have a recomendation? Is Transparent the way to go or? Thank you thank you, Aaron
Thanks for watching! If you are using pine and you want to stain it gray. I would recommend two products. 1. MINWAX PRE-STAIN WOOD CONDITIONER for oil-based stains, this helps prepare the wood to take stain evenly. You apply it to the wood and wait about 10-15 minutes before applying stain. 2. Miniwax grey oil based stain. Now there are a lot of different shades of grey stains. Since you are staining pine, check out your local home store for pine stain charts, they usually have them hanging up near the stain sections.
Of course you can and should. I do a lot of wood refinishing and know my stains. Grey is tricky color. Be sure you know which grey you like and test out on a piece of wood first. If you want an aged wood look, don't only use grey. Buy your stains in very small quantity jars. They are concentrated and large cans last too long. I prefer Varathane Oil based. Do not buy Gel stains that are 'quick 1 hr drying' type. Utter rubbish!!! Always use oil stains. Yes, there is odor, and yes it takes longer to dry. So what? You want it looking good, right? My technique for aging wood. I use a crimped wire cup brush on an angle grinder. I wear an apron and eye goggles. The wires fly out and stick in clothes and DO NOT COME OFF, so wear rags and an apron. Even laundry does not take them out. Run this on your pine wood surface. It scrapes out the soft wood and leaves the harder grain to stand out, lovely. Especially around the edges and corners, they look authentically aged. Check for splinters and glue them or sand off. Do a very light sanding with 220 grit to ensure there are no rough spots. You want the wood to be grooved not flat, so super light sanding. Next, toast it with a propane torch to burn off any burrs from the gouging, and add a warm color tone. The tiny burrs from the wire brush will be burned off this way, as you cannot sand inside the grooves. Also adds warmth. Next, I use Boiled Linseed oil to condition the wood. Lather this on heavily and let wood soak it up. After 10 mins or so, wipe off excess with paper towels, all of it. Wood surface should be dry. Allow wood to dry 2 days. Stain with English Chestnut, and Dark Walnut or Provincial or Hickory for darker notes. When you are happy with the look, add a dark grey here and there with a brush, and rub in with a paper towel. This 'ages' the wood. Stain, wait, wipe off. Check. Repeat if necessary. Let dry for 1-2 days. Only 1 day in hot weather. If any gluing of splinters needs to be done, this is the time to do it. This way, the glue does not interfere with the staining. Use Varathane Oil based Clear Satin Interior Polyurethane. Cut 50:50 or more with Mineral Spirits separately in a jar. Do not shake!! Stir only. Apply generously to wood over the stain. Wait 10-15 mins, then smear it with paper towels, catching drips, and wiping off excess. Wood should not be wiped dry, but instead, smeared till a very light coating remains. Dry. Repeat for a total of 3 coats or more if desired. The end result is a hand rubbed finish, no thick plastic coating. Please don't use any water based Polyurethane. A table surface must be hard and resistant to everything. Use Oil based Poly only for best results. No shortcuts.
Rust-oleum. They make some good stain, can find most colors. Gray for sure. They usually sell it at Walmart or meiyer, usually anywhere with a hardware section.
4:02 - You should never sand that fast with a random orbit sander. It leaves swirl marks on the wood. Slowly sanding will eliminate the stretched out swirl marks. You are wasting your Poly by smearing it with a cloth. Wipe on Poly is simply regular poly mixed with Mineral Spirits in a 50:50 mix or even thinner. You can apply it thickly in diluted form, wait for the wood to soak it up, then smear /wipe it to a thin layer with a paper towel. Dry, and repeat 3 times. If you start out by smearing it, you are not letting it soak into the dry wood. You want that waterproofing from the soak. It also hardens the wood. You waste a lot if the cloth is soaking it up instead of the wood. Use a brush first. Wipe On Poly costs a lot more and you get a lot less. Make your own.
I'm not 100% sure but I think he has the speed turned up a bit so we can see the whole process. I'm not 100% but his legs looks unearthly moving that fast.
This is not true butcher block. It is a collection of boards glued together to form a panel. A butcher block is made with the end grain showing, not side grain.
With respect that's not entirely accurate. Butcher block is a very thick cutting board that butcher's used because they cleaved their meats. Hence the term "Butcher Block" but an end grain butcher block is more commonly popular amongst chefs because the fibers in wood long ways dull knives much quicker, making you have to work more. But the end grain isn't nearly as sturdy and the fibers separate much easier while also keeping its rigidity because of it's proximity to thew other boards and the glue up. Butcher block is just a very dense cutting board. But an end grain butcher block is by far the toughest to make, require the highest skill for cutting boards, better tools as you can't plane end grain but only sand it, but last the longest, hold your mineral oil the best, and IMO look fantastic.
Looks awesome dude!
Thanks for watching!
I'm pretty handy and I never even thought you could build butcher block... dont ask me how I thought it was made, I guess I never thought that far into it. Either way you just saved me a ton of money or at least some... off to buy the planer and wood now :D
Looks like butcher block because it is butcher block. Nice work
You should plane both before lowering each time, instead of one after the other.
Then you will end up the same height.
That’s the only comment I would make. The countertop looks terrific, great job!!
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
TOTALLY AWSOME SHOP UPGRADE!!!!!
Very nice man. Trying to get bar top ideas.
Great video and instructions! Looks AWESOME! 👍
Good job! That looks really nice!
TOTALLY AWSOME VIDEO BEN!!!!
Nice, yeah I love that tite bond ultra glue. Probably going to take this on tomorrow. Will try to find the clearest 2x's to avoid knots but yours turned out good 👍
Good luck! It’s a fun project!
I would recommend buying a 10 inch board and ripping that your self if you have a table saw or something. You would be able to get much straighter boards that way
Looks really good
Turned out great thanks for the video
Nice video. Maybe run both pieces after each other to keep the planing the same for each
BUTCHER BLOCK IS CHEAP AND EASY TO MAKE. GREAT FOR THE SHOP OR THE KITCHEN!!!
Sure wish I had a planer... man that looks so nice after it's run through that
It definitely makes it easier to get that nice finish. I don’t regret buying mine at all!
There like $200 so go for it
No shit. Man super cool. Ben I had no idea only 200$ that’s not bad at all. Super cool thanks for sharing bro
If you need a planer. Look around your area for a shop that might be willing to rent theirs
@@Crypticdogma thanks dogma
Looks good!
Looks Great ! Any suggestions for using the same countertop for a kitchen. Urethane. Thanks
Great work, This is something I think I can do. I want to make a Caft tabletop so this would be perfect. Can you please tell me what is the size wood you use? I would truly appreciate.
I used 1 x 2’s of pine for this project. Super cheap and easy to work with.
Great video! I don't have a bench planner, would a belt sander work?
What are the dimensions of the wood boards that you bought?
Thank you for your video, so helpful! I am a beginner and want to build one for my kitchen. What types of wood could I use to add some variation in color? Would cherry add some pink into it? Also what size dimensions?
It’s a butcher block cause of the style of it ? Cause in world would it make sense to make butcher block out of pine. But if it’s for garage use only it’s cool
Does putting this many clamps help with the warping?
I have disassembled glue joints glued on only one side "with plenty of glue.". You would be surprised at the lack of coverage. High stress applications like this should have plenty of glue on BOTH surfaces.
If I was to add wood dowels between the planks would it add strength to it?
Yes. I bet it would also help with any potential warping that could happen.
@@Ben.Builds. or you can just make sure its secured to a frame beneath the counter top. dowels are unnecessary unless you don't plan on putting any support underneath
A good glue joint is much stronger than a dowel. Dowels would be used for alignment.
Didn't see any sanding, that would be crucial. And more mineral oil to fully saturate the board would help make it harder. For your next board...
Then you didn’t watch the entire video. He not only showed himself sanding, but told us the different grits he was using as well.
Sanding starts at 3:50….
That turned out very nice. How is it holding up? Thanks.
All good. One of the best projects I have done to save money.
@@Ben.Builds. Great. Thanks.
Did u plan the sides you glued together
I have a question. I have 60"inch x 30"in butcher block, I used it as a desk top. I want to remove 2 boards (ei: to reduce the width from 30"inch down to 27". is this a fairly easy process? what basic tools would i need?
Circular saw would be the best combination of cheapest/ easiest. To make it really clean, buy a long straight edge and some clamps too, but you COULD freehand follow a drawn on line with the circular saw.
Clamp the straight edge to the butcher block, taking into account the offset of the edge of the circular saw to the blade. Then go for it!
@@freckledspeckled5406 I want to take the clean approach. so ill look into a straight edge and clamps. thank you!
@JujocoCS you could totally get just a metal meter stick or the like. And the clamps don’t have to be fancy. Good luck!
Is this doable without a planer? I can only afford a sander lol
What brand wipe on poly did you use?
What size boards did you use?
Nice! But what if one is a beginner and doesn't have a planer? Could I just use a handheld belt sander?
That would work!
If I don’t have a planer, can I just use a sander and go over the whole thing?
You could, but it would take a long time. You could also pick up a hand planer to make it easier.
I did a tool box top like this and didn't have a planer. Just a lot of sanding and some beers
A router on a sled will flatten as well 👍
Yes, that will work fine. Scrape off the glue first or it will clog the sander.
I second the router on a sled. Very cheap and easy to get great big slabs flat.
What he use 2x4 pine
What did you rip those boards from?
They are just 1x2s.
How much did this cost to make ?
How much did the wood cost in total?
It was $1.77 per board and I bought like 36 of them. so about $65.
@@Ben.Builds. Wow that's way cheaper than buying a butcherblock countertop premade.
@@SonicD007 yep!
ANYBODY CAN DO IT!!!!
What would you say the best wood is for a kitchen counter?
Maple is probably the most popular
What about rainbow pine?
Hi, thank you for the video. Excuse my inexperience and lack of knowledge. If i use pine wood and do.all this in the video how can i make the finish look gray in color instead of poly urethane? Im attempting to do diy kitchen island countertop approx 5ftx 4ft area. I dont want to paint the wood. Is there a gray stain? If there is do you have a recomendation? Is Transparent the way to go or? Thank you thank you, Aaron
Thanks for watching! If you are using pine and you want to stain it gray. I would recommend two products. 1. MINWAX PRE-STAIN WOOD CONDITIONER for oil-based stains, this helps prepare the wood to take stain evenly. You apply it to the wood and wait about 10-15 minutes before applying stain. 2. Miniwax grey oil based stain. Now there are a lot of different shades of grey stains. Since you are staining pine, check out your local home store for pine stain charts, they usually have them hanging up near the stain sections.
@@Ben.Builds. ok thank you
Of course you can and should. I do a lot of wood refinishing and know my stains. Grey is tricky color. Be sure you know which grey you like and test out on a piece of wood first. If you want an aged wood look, don't only use grey.
Buy your stains in very small quantity jars. They are concentrated and large cans last too long. I prefer Varathane Oil based. Do not buy Gel stains that are 'quick 1 hr drying' type. Utter rubbish!!! Always use oil stains. Yes, there is odor, and yes it takes longer to dry. So what? You want it looking good, right?
My technique for aging wood. I use a crimped wire cup brush on an angle grinder. I wear an apron and eye goggles. The wires fly out and stick in clothes and DO NOT COME OFF, so wear rags and an apron. Even laundry does not take them out. Run this on your pine wood surface. It scrapes out the soft wood and leaves the harder grain to stand out, lovely. Especially around the edges and corners, they look authentically aged. Check for splinters and glue them or sand off.
Do a very light sanding with 220 grit to ensure there are no rough spots. You want the wood to be grooved not flat, so super light sanding.
Next, toast it with a propane torch to burn off any burrs from the gouging, and add a warm color tone. The tiny burrs from the wire brush will be burned off this way, as you cannot sand inside the grooves. Also adds warmth.
Next, I use Boiled Linseed oil to condition the wood. Lather this on heavily and let wood soak it up. After 10 mins or so, wipe off excess with paper towels, all of it. Wood surface should be dry. Allow wood to dry 2 days.
Stain with English Chestnut, and Dark Walnut or Provincial or Hickory for darker notes. When you are happy with the look, add a dark grey here and there with a brush, and rub in with a paper towel. This 'ages' the wood. Stain, wait, wipe off. Check. Repeat if necessary. Let dry for 1-2 days. Only 1 day in hot weather. If any gluing of splinters needs to be done, this is the time to do it. This way, the glue does not interfere with the staining.
Use Varathane Oil based Clear Satin Interior Polyurethane. Cut 50:50 or more with Mineral Spirits separately in a jar. Do not shake!! Stir only. Apply generously to wood over the stain. Wait 10-15 mins, then smear it with paper towels, catching drips, and wiping off excess. Wood should not be wiped dry, but instead, smeared till a very light coating remains. Dry. Repeat for a total of 3 coats or more if desired. The end result is a hand rubbed finish, no thick plastic coating. Please don't use any water based Polyurethane. A table surface must be hard and resistant to everything. Use Oil based Poly only for best results. No shortcuts.
Rust-oleum. They make some good stain, can find most colors. Gray for sure. They usually sell it at Walmart or meiyer, usually anywhere with a hardware section.
Sho I don't have planer so what should I do .
Scrape off glue with a wood scraper, before it is completely cured and hard. Then sand by hand slowly.
@@Spencer-e2v too expensive for me bcos it cost me R3000 for just 1meter for butcher block
4:02 - You should never sand that fast with a random orbit sander. It leaves swirl marks on the wood. Slowly sanding will eliminate the stretched out swirl marks.
You are wasting your Poly by smearing it with a cloth. Wipe on Poly is simply regular poly mixed with Mineral Spirits in a 50:50 mix or even thinner. You can apply it thickly in diluted form, wait for the wood to soak it up, then smear /wipe it to a thin layer with a paper towel. Dry, and repeat 3 times. If you start out by smearing it, you are not letting it soak into the dry wood. You want that waterproofing from the soak. It also hardens the wood. You waste a lot if the cloth is soaking it up instead of the wood. Use a brush first. Wipe On Poly costs a lot more and you get a lot less. Make your own.
I'm not 100% sure but I think he has the speed turned up a bit so we can see the whole process. I'm not 100% but his legs looks unearthly moving that fast.
What was the cost?
Under $50.
i dont have 1 clamp
Pine ..softwood... Will dent ... But who cares it's cheap
This is not true butcher block. It is a collection of boards glued together to form a panel. A butcher block is made with the end grain showing, not side grain.
With respect that's not entirely accurate. Butcher block is a very thick cutting board that butcher's used because they cleaved their meats. Hence the term "Butcher Block" but an end grain butcher block is more commonly popular amongst chefs because the fibers in wood long ways dull knives much quicker, making you have to work more. But the end grain isn't nearly as sturdy and the fibers separate much easier while also keeping its rigidity because of it's proximity to thew other boards and the glue up. Butcher block is just a very dense cutting board. But an end grain butcher block is by far the toughest to make, require the highest skill for cutting boards, better tools as you can't plane end grain but only sand it, but last the longest, hold your mineral oil the best, and IMO look fantastic.
"a block made with thick strips of usually laminated hardwood"
-Miriam Webster dictionary
I'm all for end grain, but butcher blocks aren't exclusively end grain.
Hardwood, not pine.
Wow you’re a F’ing genius. No shit this ain’t a butcher block that’s why it’s DIY!
Yeah real cheap........how much is the planner???🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡
Troll
A good handheld planar can go for around $50
Planner!? Planar!?
Not planer?
You mean plantear
You mean Plant Eater?