Your starter relay is upside down. It will work that way but if the spring inside ever breaks or gets weak it will make contact and run the starter. A sharp bump in the road may even be enough.
Gorgeous truck and build. That sound 😮💨. With all of the attention to detail, look into a rivnut kit instead of the self tappers. Would be the icing on the cake!
For what it’s worth I’ve ran painless kits before that you mentioned about swapping to at some point and in my experience now I’m changing over to American auto wires kits, not only are they easier but I’ve found them to be just a flat out higher quality, are they cheap no but have they been flawless out of the 4 kits I’ve done now… yes they have been 100% perfect every time and their customer service is amazing as well so whether this is helpful or not thought I would add my experience
DUDE!! Great content and vehicles.. But watching this vid and seeing the coil youvrun on the truck is kinda sad. You gotta upgrade that overheating oil filled weak coil.
Do you work as an electrician or something full time. Cause it seems like you are getting this down pretty quick. Iky spent hours all night long rewiring the truck. Just sorta curious what you do for a career?
man, the video shouldnt be about driving. getting to the drive is where the good stuff is. going thru the shit with you is why we are here. we wanna see the mistakes and troubles as they happen so we can learn from it along with you. I suggest that you skip the routine things when they are routine, but when something hits the fan, show it and get into it as deep as you can.
Fresh engine rebuild, but then proceeds to immediately rev/drive the 💩 out of it. Hmmmm ... like the content but, don't you think you need to respect all the work put into engine after engine?
With a pump that big I would run a return line, those deadhead regulators get really wonky with a big pump, swapped over one with a return and have had zero issues with fuel pressure
I 100% agree with your everything happens for a reason statement Craig, cause 2 months ago my leaf spring shackle snapped in my truck and I was gonna drive it to work anyways on the loose leaf spring, but my truck kept stalling out when it in drive, and as soon as I fixed the shackle never had that stalling issue again, I truly believe that the world looks out for us so that we don't endanger ourselves or others.
Everything happens for a reason. When I was young and stupid I was hit about 120mph in my ‘70 Monte Carlo- my buddy was in his Camaro- backed off. Three days later I was just cruising at about 30mph when my drivers side A-arm snapped in half and about took me into the guardrail. Three days earlier and I’d be dead.
@@Thecraig909 that’s fantastic. I have been watching you for the past few years and what you have done to them. I would like to see you complete the eventually.
It looks like the junction connector(the black connector) finally failed. The wire that connects to the junction connector and then runs to the ignition coil is a resistance wire. It is designed to reduce the voltage and amperage that runs through the ignition points so the points don't burn up. If you install a modern 12V ignition system you need to replace the resistor wire to insure you have maximum voltage and amperage to the coil. GM also uses a resistor wire. Chrysler used a resistor block.
You're truck looks awesome. I have A75F 100 With a 302 Hi Bruce, I'm motor brought sail one out of all came out. I was doing 80 still turns over. Sounds like a battery. Did sorry it's not engineers show? I bought A72 if 350 campus special. With a 390 skip, song cab is gone. Tanks are going ruptic completely out. Mapper hero, great Chrome road, mcshay safe. Bethel mine is 500 farts. I want to pull the 3 90s and sticker in the 75 with a free 02 of. What are you saying it's accepted? Should I rebuild your 302 Arctic? It's 3 90s at rones. My chocolate will Hull a** if you know what I mean. Don't have any idea what I'm getting myself. Into. Add 275 for almost 20 years. If part of your family, I'm disable but not going to give up, Polly won't get no help my take me awhile.
WTF MY STARTER IS DOING THE SAME THING!!! idk if it's the solenoid or if it's my ignition but my starter just won't disengage after I shut the key off, I bought a new solenoid and it still didn't fix the issue, I checked my wiring, I just can't figure it out at all, I'm thinking of putting a push button start in to Mayberry fix it for now
@@mikemullay5622 it's fine if you don't like patina. You don't have to drive it. It's not your truck. Go ahead and paint your stuff if you want. Spend all that time making it look perfect. I will spend my time driving mine. Making it drive better, run better, make it more comfortable, useable.
@ryurc3033 That's the problem he spent more time working on it. I had a 68 ford f 250 it was patina it had a good patina. Maybe it will change his luck
Your new fuel pump is quiet by design. It's a gerotor design (just like an oil pump), instead of the cheaper fuel pumps (ie: Holley Red & Blue), which use a vane design. Better design, more efficient and quieter.
Rotate starter relay 180 degrees. Ensure it is grounded properly to the inner fender. You could get an original Ford/Motorcraft relay from a junkyard and test that to see if it works better than the one you have now. I just gotta say your truck sounds like a Formula 1 race car and a dragster combined! Dam, that IS a bad ass F-100 !!!!!!!
You know I'm 58 years old, and have been assembling motors since I was 18 not including motorcycle engines I have assembled a few dozen engines for friends, and friends of friends. I then got into racing motorcycles, and assembling engines to the point I have done a couple dozen of them including a few Harley sportster and big twin engines. I say I have assembled engines because I don't do machine work, and that is the most important part of building a engine, then comes assembly to complete the engine. The third most important thing in the life of a engine is treatment. I impress that on everyone I did a engine for. First take your time and put some gentle miles on your new engine around 1100 to be exact the first miles are important as you need to make sure the engine is tuned right or a little rich, a little light on timing, the first 50 miles you should not cold rev or no load rev the engine, on the first long drives on a highway vary the speed of the engine a lot. at about 250 miles we power tune at a drag strip (MPH = HP) then you do what you want. I know you are going to make fun of this post Craig but I have yet to have any engine I assemble, and tune blow up in the first two years after being installed in the vehical, and you have blown up the same engine four times in one year. If I had a dollar for every year a engine assembled ran with out a failure in my life time I could build another hot rod. Craig if you got a dollar for every year a engine ran that you assembled I honestly think you couldn't buy a Happy Meal at McDonalds with the proceeds. Laugh that one off big boy. I also had a 76 ford truck with a .010 over 390, 10 to1 compresion, comp cams H280 hydrolic non roller cam, 66 GT390 heads and intake (both mildly ported) Headers, MSD 6al box, Holley 700 double pumper, stock bottom end all but pistons. This engine was spare parts thrown together combo made just shy of 400 whp, and ran under me towing my trailer, running for parts, and doing long assed smokey burnouts under my care for eight years until I sold the truck to buy a newer truck because I was starting a family. Quit being a tool, spend more time trying to figure out why your junk blows up instead of just throwing money at the problem, Spend less time on the internet and more time reading older books on race engine building. Knowing the nick names for all the ford body styles you can never make run very long makes you look like a dip shit. So spend your time reading really important infomation. Sorry this got so long and a little out of hand, but I hope it shows the difference between a mechanic and a TH-camr. A mechanic cares about fixing what is broken or slow, a youtuber learns unusablle facts, and looks like a dipshit to get subscribers, and writen coments. A true craftsman is rewarded in cash payments, and the satisfaction his stuff dose what it is supose to do.
Should spend more than 20 bucks on relays, since OK units are 15 bucks a piece and you have 4 there. Maybe the starter will shut off with a real relay. Steal them from an 80s Japanese car, they last forever.
Got to watch them fusible links, Ford liked to put them in a lot of cars and trucks, your fox has them in it too. Don’t know why they just didn’t use fuses, or circuit breakers. I guess a cheap piece of wire made to catch on fire easily and burn up quickly was cheaper than fuses 😂
Love the videos I’ve watch almost all of them. I’m looking at a 85 dodge d150 it is somewhat primed and the other parts are patina can’t wait to go look at it when
I did a painless kit in my 68. As soon as i got it home. The truck ran great. But the harnesses all cut and cobled together. It was not something that is a quick job. Good luck
I’ve had this happen in my obs ford with a 351w. I’ll start it and then it’ll keep trying to start. And when I turn the key off it keeps trying to start.
Those solenoids suck, I bought one of the nicer ones and it was 60 bucks, and it burned up and made the starter run exactly like yours. We ended up getting rid of that solenoid. I forget how we did it, but it was for a demoliition derby car, so it we didn't need any of the safetys or anything and it works perfect. Our starter also had its own solenoid connected to it so we ran it off of that with a bridge.
Super helpful info in this video man! I have a 69 f100 that I’m 351 Windsor swapping so I’m just soaking all this up! Don’t get down bro, you’ll never regret doing things right!
Hey I like using those cheap "crappy" brass fittings 😅 they will last as long as any AN fitting and if done right looks just as good in my opinion. Which im more concerned with what works and what will make power and go fast than looks anyway because looks doesnt make power or will get ya home anyway. But your truck does sound gnarly as hell and should run pretty quick with around 400 rwhp . That nascar wheel setup looks badass as hell. Gives it the perfect stance 🤟😁
Actually For older vehicles fan shrouds are not needed.( Depending on the motor build). Back then, manufactures didn't actually sell all vehicles with fan shrouds, the only vehicles that got them were "desert vehicles". Which people custom ordered if they lived in a very hot place. But my 71 F100 has a rebuilt 352 Big Block that's been bored and stroked to 410, its runs great without a fan shroud, doesn't over heat. Not saying for all vehicles fan shrouds aren't needed, just saying that some vehicles don't need them.
Great job this far on the new build , just take your time and dont hurry on finishing the truck . Work out all the issues before you rip on it and take it for a longer drive.
Your starter relay is upside down. It will work that way but if the spring inside ever breaks or gets weak it will make contact and run the starter. A sharp bump in the road may even be enough.
You called it
I didn’t know that so thank you
You called it. I am sure that spring made contact when he came down off of the curb.
You're a genius! Good spotting that dude that's crazy.
I'll have to remember that. Thank you.
Everything happens for a reason, Craig. You probably just saved someone's life. We are learning so much from you. Thanks
Gorgeous truck and build. That sound 😮💨. With all of the attention to detail, look into a rivnut kit instead of the self tappers. Would be the icing on the cake!
Beauty job on the wring Craig. Im 43 and still learning sh!t about my truck everytime i rebuild something. That truck is a beaut
I did a 21 circuit from kwik wire in my 76 f250, love that harness
For what it’s worth I’ve ran painless kits before that you mentioned about swapping to at some point and in my experience now I’m changing over to American auto wires kits, not only are they easier but I’ve found them to be just a flat out higher quality, are they cheap no but have they been flawless out of the 4 kits I’ve done now… yes they have been 100% perfect every time and their customer service is amazing as well so whether this is helpful or not thought I would add my experience
where did you get the headliner?
its always something
Love the Trukk
DUDE!! Great content and vehicles.. But watching this vid and seeing the coil youvrun on the truck is kinda sad. You gotta upgrade that overheating oil filled weak coil.
Your exactly right I had to bypass mine
what size are those tires
Such a sick truck
I give it a minth,maybe two before he blows this engine up
Do you work as an electrician or something full time. Cause it seems like you are getting this down pretty quick. Iky spent hours all night long rewiring the truck. Just sorta curious what you do for a career?
I don’t know what state you live in but in Ca all slicks are illegal on the street
Did you, even help, build the engine?
Your voltmeter reading 10 volts at 19:36 No bueno! Alternator regulator gone.
Considering he doesn't have an alternator currently. 10 volts is not surprising.
@@dukes20084 so that's what the optima batterie had. Interesting. Hope you fix it fast, can wait to hear it rip.
man, the video shouldnt be about driving. getting to the drive is where the good stuff is. going thru the shit with you is why we are here. we wanna see the mistakes and troubles as they happen so we can learn from it along with you. I suggest that you skip the routine things when they are routine, but when something hits the fan, show it and get into it as deep as you can.
Hey there
PLEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAASE do a driving vid
Breakaway fans do not rob horsepower
Hey 909, how can someone contact you? I don’t do social media, and would like to discuss your headliner with you. Thanks!
There’s a business email in the about section of my channel
“Tap ‘n go” starter
Fresh engine rebuild, but then proceeds to immediately rev/drive the 💩 out of it. Hmmmm ... like the content but, don't you think you need to respect all the work put into engine after engine?
is it supposed to sit that low in the back? Looks kinda...ya know.
Yeah, like a kid with a full diaper.
I freaking love this truck so much. That engine, and the fact it’s stick shift just make this truck so awesome imo
With a pump that big I would run a return line, those deadhead regulators get really wonky with a big pump, swapped over one with a return and have had zero issues with fuel pressure
Starter solenoid is upside down homie
I 100% agree with your everything happens for a reason statement Craig, cause 2 months ago my leaf spring shackle snapped in my truck and I was gonna drive it to work anyways on the loose leaf spring, but my truck kept stalling out when it in drive, and as soon as I fixed the shackle never had that stalling issue again, I truly believe that the world looks out for us so that we don't endanger ourselves or others.
when I put it in drive*
@@tylerladerach769😂
Everything happens for a reason. When I was young and stupid I was hit about 120mph in my ‘70 Monte Carlo- my buddy was in his Camaro- backed off. Three days later I was just cruising at about 30mph when my drivers side A-arm snapped in half and about took me into the guardrail. Three days earlier and I’d be dead.
Sounds SICK!!! #BuiltByBo
Pretty high odds this thing gets wrapped around something.
Pretty harsh but probably some truth to it.
Where is the other Truck frame with the crown Vic swap and stuff !? 😮
Did you sell the Galaxies? I really wanted to see them finished. If you have them did you lose interest in finishing them or at least one the red one.
I have both, you'll see a Galaxie video here in the next week.
@@Thecraig909 that’s fantastic. I have been watching you for the past few years and what you have done to them. I would like to see you complete the eventually.
You can't build engines dude!
Im running a powermaster high torque starter in my 10.4.1 compression 351 works great
It’s good to see the sickest f100 on TH-cam back on the streets!
Thing sounds wicked! Time for me to revisit my exhaust 😉
Blow it up again?
Hi Craig, the wire is not connected to a resistor, the wire IS the resistor and it is soft and rubbery from new. Nice electrical distribution box 👌
Dang Craig, been bitin the bullet a lot this past few weeks huh? Eh you'll get it.
It looks like the junction connector(the black connector) finally failed. The wire that connects to the junction connector and then runs to the ignition coil is a resistance wire. It is designed to reduce the voltage and amperage that runs through the ignition points so the points don't burn up. If you install a modern 12V ignition system you need to replace the resistor wire to insure you have maximum voltage and amperage to the coil. GM also uses a resistor wire. Chrysler used a resistor block.
God this thing sounds angelic. Nothing like it. Thanks for the (very) short ride! From all things, i‘m glad it was ‘just’ the starter that broke!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This video makes my dumbass feel like a genius, checking out, dont recommend videos.
I live in Kentucky, so I've had to hire a translator so I can understand what you're saying. 😅
LOL he needs to spit the skittles out of his mouth before talking, Mumbles 909
You're truck looks awesome. I have A75F 100 With a 302 Hi Bruce, I'm motor brought sail one out of all came out. I was doing 80 still turns over. Sounds like a battery. Did sorry it's not engineers show? I bought A72 if 350 campus special. With a 390 skip, song cab is gone. Tanks are going ruptic completely out. Mapper hero, great Chrome road, mcshay safe. Bethel mine is 500 farts. I want to pull the 3 90s and sticker in the 75 with a free 02 of. What are you saying it's accepted? Should I rebuild your 302 Arctic? It's 3 90s at rones. My chocolate will Hull a** if you know what I mean. Don't have any idea what I'm getting myself. Into. Add 275 for almost 20 years. If part of your family, I'm disable but not going to give up, Polly won't get no help my take me awhile.
WTF MY STARTER IS DOING THE SAME THING!!! idk if it's the solenoid or if it's my ignition but my starter just won't disengage after I shut the key off, I bought a new solenoid and it still didn't fix the issue, I checked my wiring, I just can't figure it out at all, I'm thinking of putting a push button start in to Mayberry fix it for now
Here we go, again come on, Craig. You can get it running right. It's time to paint that truck wimbleton white again . Enough with Patina.
Then he will never make it to the driving part.
I can't stand Patina, I am absolutely with you.
@@mikemullay5622 it's fine if you don't like patina. You don't have to drive it. It's not your truck.
Go ahead and paint your stuff if you want. Spend all that time making it look perfect. I will spend my time driving mine. Making it drive better, run better, make it more comfortable, useable.
@ryurc3033 That's the problem he spent more time working on it. I had a 68 ford f 250 it was patina it had a good patina. Maybe it will change his luck
Your new fuel pump is quiet by design. It's a gerotor design (just like an oil pump), instead of the cheaper fuel pumps (ie: Holley Red & Blue), which use a vane design. Better design, more efficient and quieter.
Rotate starter relay 180 degrees. Ensure it is grounded properly to the inner fender. You could get an original Ford/Motorcraft relay from a junkyard and test that to see if it works better than the one you have now. I just gotta say your truck sounds like a Formula 1 race car and a dragster combined! Dam, that IS a bad ass F-100 !!!!!!!
You know I'm 58 years old, and have been assembling motors since I was 18 not including motorcycle engines I have assembled a few dozen engines for friends, and friends of friends. I then got into racing motorcycles, and assembling engines to the point I have done a couple dozen of them including a few Harley sportster and big twin engines. I say I have assembled engines because I don't do machine work, and that is the most important part of building a engine, then comes assembly to complete the engine. The third most important thing in the life of a engine is treatment. I impress that on everyone I did a engine for. First take your time and put some gentle miles on your new engine around 1100 to be exact the first miles are important as you need to make sure the engine is tuned right or a little rich, a little light on timing, the first 50 miles you should not cold rev or no load rev the engine, on the first long drives on a highway vary the speed of the engine a lot. at about 250 miles we power tune at a drag strip (MPH = HP) then you do what you want. I know you are going to make fun of this post Craig but I have yet to have any engine I assemble, and tune blow up in the first two years after being installed in the vehical, and you have blown up the same engine four times in one year. If I had a dollar for every year a engine assembled ran with out a failure in my life time I could build another hot rod. Craig if you got a dollar for every year a engine ran that you assembled I honestly think you couldn't buy a Happy Meal at McDonalds with the proceeds. Laugh that one off big boy. I also had a 76 ford truck with a .010 over 390, 10 to1 compresion, comp cams H280 hydrolic non roller cam, 66 GT390 heads and intake (both mildly ported) Headers, MSD 6al box, Holley 700 double pumper, stock bottom end all but pistons. This engine was spare parts thrown together combo made just shy of 400 whp, and ran under me towing my trailer, running for parts, and doing long assed smokey burnouts under my care for eight years until I sold the truck to buy a newer truck because I was starting a family. Quit being a tool, spend more time trying to figure out why your junk blows up instead of just throwing money at the problem, Spend less time on the internet and more time reading older books on race engine building. Knowing the nick names for all the ford body styles you can never make run very long makes you look like a dip shit. So spend your time reading really important infomation. Sorry this got so long and a little out of hand, but I hope it shows the difference between a mechanic and a TH-camr. A mechanic cares about fixing what is broken or slow, a youtuber learns unusablle facts, and looks like a dipshit to get subscribers, and writen coments. A true craftsman is rewarded in cash payments, and the satisfaction his stuff dose what it is supose to do.
Nothing can go wrong with all those amazon relays under the hood…
One thing a small block Ford suffers from is heat soak .Got to keep it cool..Around 165 degrees is great..190 degrees...no
Should spend more than 20 bucks on relays, since OK units are 15 bucks a piece and you have 4 there. Maybe the starter will shut off with a real relay. Steal them from an 80s Japanese car, they last forever.
And here I thought a Shelby GT350 was the best sounding car on Planet Earth....
However, nothing will cool as much or pull as much air as a proper clutch fan and shroud. It's a toss up. want reliable cooling? or free hp?
Got to watch them fusible links, Ford liked to put them in a lot of cars and trucks, your fox has them in it too. Don’t know why they just didn’t use fuses, or circuit breakers. I guess a cheap piece of wire made to catch on fire easily and burn up quickly was cheaper than fuses 😂
Glad the F100 is back! Lets go!!!!
Love the videos I’ve watch almost all of them. I’m looking at a 85 dodge d150 it is somewhat primed and the other parts are patina can’t wait to go look at it when
I did a painless kit in my 68. As soon as i got it home. The truck ran great. But the harnesses all cut and cobled together. It was not something that is a quick job. Good luck
The F 100 should be built like a truck not like a car
Have you thought about running @thunderhead289’s Carb cheater set up on your truck?
I’ve had this happen in my obs ford with a 351w. I’ll start it and then it’ll keep trying to start. And when I turn the key off it keeps trying to start.
Those solenoids suck, I bought one of the nicer ones and it was 60 bucks, and it burned up and made the starter run exactly like yours. We ended up getting rid of that solenoid. I forget how we did it, but it was for a demoliition derby car, so it we didn't need any of the safetys or anything and it works perfect. Our starter also had its own solenoid connected to it so we ran it off of that with a bridge.
I send the fan delete. I did that on my 1995 S10 2.2l and put an electric fan on it and it made a MASSIVE difference
Yeah man, never change those slicks, maybe some drag radials, but those slicks really make the truck look amazing.
Part numbers for the shroud, fans and controller please.
C'mon Man....... self tappers on the fan control module? I need to send you a nut zert tool.
The main wire going to the distribution box you made looks very small for the amount of power that can possibly go through it.
Your solenoid is upside down. You need to mount it the other way up. That’s the reason the starter was stuck on.
I hope you used “loom tape and not electrical tape!?!?
Super helpful info in this video man!
I have a 69 f100 that I’m 351 Windsor swapping so I’m just soaking all this up!
Don’t get down bro, you’ll never regret doing things right!
Put u some amsoil dominator or vrod in that bad boy. Did it my gto and love it!! 😬
What happened to the mullet? It's about time ya got rid of that!
Does this truck still have the tr3550 5 speed?
Hey I like using those cheap "crappy" brass fittings 😅 they will last as long as any AN fitting and if done right looks just as good in my opinion. Which im more concerned with what works and what will make power and go fast than looks anyway because looks doesnt make power or will get ya home anyway. But your truck does sound gnarly as hell and should run pretty quick with around 400 rwhp . That nascar wheel setup looks badass as hell. Gives it the perfect stance 🤟😁
Actually For older vehicles fan shrouds are not needed.( Depending on the motor build). Back then, manufactures didn't actually sell all vehicles with fan shrouds, the only vehicles that got them were "desert vehicles". Which people custom ordered if they lived in a very hot place. But my 71 F100 has a rebuilt 352 Big Block that's been bored and stroked to 410, its runs great without a fan shroud, doesn't over heat. Not saying for all vehicles fan shrouds aren't needed, just saying that some vehicles don't need them.
Now obviously if you have a built motor, cooling is necessary. But vehicles can run without them
Which video shows u doing the wiring panel
That is some trick wiring🤟🤟🤟
Take your time is solid advice
Do yourself a favor and listen to this thing rev at 24:34
The F100 does sound great Craig.
That starter problem is unbelievable.
I know that you will get it sorted out.
Thanks for sharing. 👍 👍
I fucking love this truck
How come you ain’t running mirrors?
Why does it sound like a civic now?
Where did you get that electrical tape?!
Use American auto wire it’s better imo
Awesome sounding great.
Order a new wire loom for whole truck.
I can’t find the wiring video 🥺
Man, she sounds freaking rad!
11:22 yeah I have the same thoughts right now
Link to the electrical box ??
Have you ever considered trying to supercharge it?
What size wheels and tires on that beast?
Great job this far on the new build , just take your time and dont hurry on finishing the truck . Work out all the issues before you rip on it and take it for a longer drive.
I hope the gallaxys are next
Galaxie's? Fairlane?
great stuff thanks