Nice work! It will certainly be durable! I bet you could use a single layer of carbon and it would be strong enough... I took a minimalist approach for my pump board... I used a single 6oz fiberglass layer over white EPS foam with twin 10mm wide plywood stringers. It has held up, although I have had to fix lots of dings and it feels "soft" to the touch. Somewhere between your 3 layers of carbon and my single layer of fiberglass is probably the sweet spot!
thanks, that's the goal :) yes, less could probably work, but I wanted it as stiff as possible, and as it's a pretty small board, extra layers are not that heavy. I also hate fixing boxes... so those will most likely not go anywhere :)
Did a similar pump build, but used xps and no stringer. After redoing the whole top and 4other rounds of reinforcement, it works 😅 your video would have been helpful lol. Used the same bags, but I was not able to reuse them. Vacuum cleaner is also good to pull the air out
XPS is stronger yes, but for a thin board, stringers linked to the box help a lot for stiffness, and more weight efficient than too many layers. Easy way for a stiffer board is to add some thickness, but that's the polystyrene I already have :)
Tres belle video encore une fois ! C'est deja un taff de ouf de shape, mais alors de le documenter comme tu fais en video... Chapeau ! Je suis convaincu qu'englober les rails dans les stringers permet d'avoir la rigidite accru, avec un poids minimal. Tu arrives a quel poids ? Et pour la rigidite tu en penses quoi ? Pour la lamination au travers du peelply sur les rails... Je suis pas convaincu, je me suis retrouve trop souvent avec des situations compliquees pour enlever le peelply. Mais j'ai pas trouve de solution miracle... Merci encore une fois de ta documentation, ca aide enormement d'apprentis shaper comme moi.
elle a fini a 2kg pile., la j'attend un foil de pumping, mais en kite, elle ne bouge pas en appuyant bien fort. Le peel ply sur les rail, ca marche bien... si tu plaques bien le carbon tout autours, puis le peel ply au dessus tendu avec du scotch, en faisant attention a tirer le sac a vide pour qu'il fasse le rail d'un coup... c'est l'erreur que j'ai fait pour le premiere lamination.
Super vidéo !! Très instructive et super produit en plus, bravo ! Il faut vraiment que je me lance dans mon build moi aussi ahah. Tu sais à combien ça tire le vide cette méthode ?
Merci. Lances toi, sur une petite planche comme ca tu ne risque pas grand chose. Aucune idée pour la pression exacte, je dirais: largement suffisant :)
thanks! i got mine from amazon, look up vacuum storage for clothes. below 10$ for the manual pump and a few bags... pay attention to bag sizes, and if you feel like going to electric pump, be careful, there are 2 types: the short round wide are useless to make any level of vacuum and there are some longer skinnier ones that are usually more expensive and those produce proper vacuum... but for small board, hand one does the job easily.
I think the hand pump gets less vacuum than what you can get with an electric one, but you don't want full vacuum anyway, that would risk crushing the polystyrene. Vacuum cleaner works to remove most of the air, but it usually doesn't create a vacuum tight enough.
@@matshape what i saw in a surfboard factory similar to firewire (all epoxy boards) is they use a rocker table (curved table) and vacuum bag goes around table as well as board this way they can make varying degrees of rocker (curvature) without needing to shape foam to create. foam is malleable but cured glass/epoxy determines curve.
@@silasketgaskets8709 yes, rocker table definitely work too, as I was doing a single board, I put the rocker in while gluing the stringers... table is definitely better for doing lot of boards
i move between low "table"/ sawhorses and higher rack, depending on what i'm doing, low table to apply pressure on the sander is actually pretty good :)
@@yiimbob7805 similar size (mine is a bit shorter) similar weight. At this point the board is lighter than the foil anyway, not sure it's worth taking risk on stiffness/strength to save a few more grams...
@@matshape Would be interesting to see if they are somewhat customisable to vacuum bigger pieces ! You're quite limited to the max length you are able to do. Maybe cutting the valve and gluing to a normal vacuum bag ?
@@Helic4 yes you can, if you check the bag i'm using in the video of making a board with a CNC (at 8:04) you'll see the same valve. however, volume is way too big to use the manual pump, and my bag had a very small leak, or may be my way to close it, and it ended up needing the pump connected. If i did it again, i'd keep the valve and closure system and just extend the other end of the bag.
I didn't carefully track time and cost on this one, but as it's much smaller than the previous board, I'd say ~200$ over a couple weeks working on it an hour here and there.
@@matshape Nice. Sure your own time not included in that price but even for your area 200$ is a good price for components. You made it for yourself or to sell?
Nice work! It will certainly be durable! I bet you could use a single layer of carbon and it would be strong enough... I took a minimalist approach for my pump board... I used a single 6oz fiberglass layer over white EPS foam with twin 10mm wide plywood stringers. It has held up, although I have had to fix lots of dings and it feels "soft" to the touch. Somewhere between your 3 layers of carbon and my single layer of fiberglass is probably the sweet spot!
thanks, that's the goal :) yes, less could probably work, but I wanted it as stiff as possible, and as it's a pretty small board, extra layers are not that heavy. I also hate fixing boxes... so those will most likely not go anywhere :)
@@matshape
Less carbon = affordable price
So condensed! Will have to rewatch the video to get everything... and the result is spectacular!
Mega Arbeit 👍traumhaftes Board...da möchte man gleich loslegen und anfangen zu bauen
Mate! WTF! What an amazing job and marvelous looking board! I wanna make one right now!!!
thanks... that's why i made the video... not that hard, go for it :)
Thank you very much for this great vid aigain. Because of your vids i began to shape by my own. Greez from switzerland
good luck!
Nice Mat... i do the vacuum with a layer of plasticfoil and squeeze all air out...finish!
Beautiful work. You rock!
Absolutly beautiful man
Did a similar pump build, but used xps and no stringer. After redoing the whole top and 4other rounds of reinforcement, it works 😅 your video would have been helpful lol. Used the same bags, but I was not able to reuse them. Vacuum cleaner is also good to pull the air out
XPS is stronger yes, but for a thin board, stringers linked to the box help a lot for stiffness, and more weight efficient than too many layers. Easy way for a stiffer board is to add some thickness, but that's the polystyrene I already have :)
Great build again dude! Where did you buy the balsa wood?
thanks, balsa is from a small craft store, Amazon has some too, but picking in a store is better as quality is variable.
Awesome!! 🤙
that's really cool
Tres belle video encore une fois ! C'est deja un taff de ouf de shape, mais alors de le documenter comme tu fais en video... Chapeau !
Je suis convaincu qu'englober les rails dans les stringers permet d'avoir la rigidite accru, avec un poids minimal. Tu arrives a quel poids ? Et pour la rigidite tu en penses quoi ?
Pour la lamination au travers du peelply sur les rails... Je suis pas convaincu, je me suis retrouve trop souvent avec des situations compliquees pour enlever le peelply. Mais j'ai pas trouve de solution miracle...
Merci encore une fois de ta documentation, ca aide enormement d'apprentis shaper comme moi.
elle a fini a 2kg pile., la j'attend un foil de pumping, mais en kite, elle ne bouge pas en appuyant bien fort. Le peel ply sur les rail, ca marche bien... si tu plaques bien le carbon tout autours, puis le peel ply au dessus tendu avec du scotch, en faisant attention a tirer le sac a vide pour qu'il fasse le rail d'un coup... c'est l'erreur que j'ai fait pour le premiere lamination.
@@matshape Top ! Mini question encore... Tu utilises quel spray pour le clear coat ?
@@florian367 rustoleum clear matte, mais le gloss marche bien aussi.
Super vidéo !! Très instructive et super produit en plus, bravo ! Il faut vraiment que je me lance dans mon build moi aussi ahah. Tu sais à combien ça tire le vide cette méthode ?
Merci. Lances toi, sur une petite planche comme ca tu ne risque pas grand chose. Aucune idée pour la pression exacte, je dirais: largement suffisant :)
Well done bro, I wish I could give you an orbital sander as a present
thanks, I have one... but I prefer the cheap spiny only thing from amazon, more control, and way less noisy: more neighbor friendly :)
Hello, very nice work. Where and under what name can you order the hand vacuum set?
thanks! i got mine from amazon, look up vacuum storage for clothes. below 10$ for the manual pump and a few bags... pay attention to bag sizes, and if you feel like going to electric pump, be careful, there are 2 types: the short round wide are useless to make any level of vacuum and there are some longer skinnier ones that are usually more expensive and those produce proper vacuum... but for small board, hand one does the job easily.
@@matshape 🤙🤙
Sous vide the board. Great idea. Dopes hand pump attain same neg pressure as electric pump? also might be able to use vacuum cleaner
I think the hand pump gets less vacuum than what you can get with an electric one, but you don't want full vacuum anyway, that would risk crushing the polystyrene.
Vacuum cleaner works to remove most of the air, but it usually doesn't create a vacuum tight enough.
@@matshape what i saw in a surfboard factory similar to firewire (all epoxy boards) is they use a rocker table (curved table) and vacuum bag goes around table as well as board this way they can make varying degrees of rocker (curvature) without needing to shape foam to create. foam is malleable but cured glass/epoxy determines curve.
@@silasketgaskets8709 yes, rocker table definitely work too, as I was doing a single board, I put the rocker in while gluing the stringers... table is definitely better for doing lot of boards
Cheapest vacuum! But 24 carats!!! Nice!!!
it's real gold... but so thin that it's also actually very cheap :)
nice
Which sanding grids do you use after the final coat to get a clean final surface?
320 is enough when adding the clear coat after .
Shouldn't you make yourself a shaping bay type of worktable, this one is way too low, your not hurting your back?
i move between low "table"/ sawhorses and higher rack, depending on what i'm doing, low table to apply pressure on the sander is actually pretty good :)
salut tres belle planche, quel clear coat tu utilises ?
Merci, c'est un spray rustoleum matte.
Anyone done one with 80kg hard foam? No stringers?
Should be doable, I think I saw some like this on some forums ...
Nice man! What's the final weight?
thanks, it ended up at exactly 2kg with the pad.
@@matshape I also built a kite foil pocket board out of paulownia and carbon (2kg, 95cmx44cm) that's why I'm asking.
@@yiimbob7805 similar size (mine is a bit shorter) similar weight. At this point the board is lighter than the foil anyway, not sure it's worth taking risk on stiffness/strength to save a few more grams...
@@matshape right but a kitefoil doesn't have to endure the highest stress so I think it'll be fine..
Where did you get this vacuum bags?
Amazon: less than 6$ for 6 bags and the pump :)
@@matshape Would be interesting to see if they are somewhat customisable to vacuum bigger pieces ! You're quite limited to the max length you are able to do. Maybe cutting the valve and gluing to a normal vacuum bag ?
@@Helic4 yes you can, if you check the bag i'm using in the video of making a board with a CNC (at 8:04) you'll see the same valve. however, volume is way too big to use the manual pump, and my bag had a very small leak, or may be my way to close it, and it ended up needing the pump connected. If i did it again, i'd keep the valve and closure system and just extend the other end of the bag.
it's too strong for the purpose
And what the final price and how much days you have spent on it?
I didn't carefully track time and cost on this one, but as it's much smaller than the previous board, I'd say ~200$ over a couple weeks working on it an hour here and there.
@@matshape Nice. Sure your own time not included in that price but even for your area 200$ is a good price for components. You made it for yourself or to sell?
@@VitaliiThe time is definitely not included :) that's why it's for me. if I were to make boards for sale, they'd be too expensive ...