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Orca has a really great feature called "hybrid tree support". It basically prints the supports as actual objects, with infill density and pattern that you can set to help give the trees the best mechanical properties possible while still reducing interface size. The only downside I've seen to this new feature so far is that it disables the variable layer height feature for objects while active.
Can you export the new geometry? I would try reimporting it and then slicing everything again. Seems like they "just" need to recalculate the slicing for the whole model after adding the new geometry. Slicing only the new geometry would result in bugs. I would say disabling it is probably a stopgap until they figure out a solution they like.
@@orbatos I believe it is already using the variable layer height function for the hybrid trees, to maximize overhang strength and angle. I think it would just take unreasonably long to solve for multiple variable layer heights on the same plate.
@@wisdomofnotch I wonder about that, as it would change the external finish and potentially compromise the design in other ways. I'll have to mess with it myself, haven't used orca in a while
Wow, I loved this tip! It's like a lifeline when things go wrong with supports! 🤯 I think experimenting with different support types really opens up creativity in 3D printing. Can't wait to try this out! 🎨
full video goes into it further, but the columns are very strong so can be harder to remove or damage fragile prints. It uses more material as well, but worth it for success!
I don't think they really answered your question. My best guess is that this structure is less materially efficient. If your project can utilize simpler structures, use them. Otherwise, this is structure is nearly always a safe bet.
Not so secret anymore thanks to you! I've always hated supports on TPU. I used this, and added 50% to the distance, so if it was .2, now .3, and it worked incredibly well!
Agreed, takes some testing with your printer to get it 100% (1 layer is fine for 0.2, but too little for 0.1 for example, also cooling, speed and all) but once you do, it's night and day difference between any no interface support and that. Removes beautifully and as close as it gets to no support finish on the surface.
Oh that's not just any kigmask. That's a pony kigmask! I found Angus years and years ago when he was printing Twilights in his parents basement and acetone smoothing them with a rice cooker
If u got a mmu printer, meaning it can print in more than one color/filament, just use pva for the supports, its made of cornstarch so its water soluble
GENIUS. I can't stand seeing so much plastic waste being made. Especially when they're using MORE plastic in the supports than the actual printed product itself. ☠️🤦♀️🤷♀️🤣
I built an mmu printer for just this, but pva is a pain, and petg and pla are incompatible materials. I primarily print in petg, so I just run some white pla for my support interface and boom pops right off when done.
PVA is made of PVA, not cornstarch. It is water soluble though and you're allowed to flush it down the drain. It is the most biodegradable of petrochemicals but as always scientific inquiry and debate is ongoing whether it's actually harmless or only sorta kinda harmless. It's also a complete pest to work with and horrendously expensive.
@@cececox6399 the OP got it completely backwards. The actual hard plastic is made from cornstarch, it's a long chain sugar of lactic acid, PLA. With chain length, water solubility decreases drastically, and by the time it can be moulded and hold shape, it's not water soluble at all. The PVA water soluble support material is a petrochemical and it's also a main ingredient of paper glue.
@@SianaGearz can confirm PVA is an absolute pain to print with and cost an arm and a leg. I dehydrate it regularly before use, and then print out of a heated dry box, and even then it's still not perfect. And it stinks to high heaven. I only use it in the rarest circumstances, usually something with TPU or an extremely flexible filament that doesn't like bridging.
Yes! I use Snug and lower densities about 80% of the time and never have problems removing support. Tree supports are a revelation, but that doesn't mean they are always the best choice.
I swear, my phone is listening to me- I was talking about it with a friend, and this is EXACTLY what I thought would be a problem trying to 3D print my first thing!
These settings can work great. I found a post from Reddit while doing research and it was highly upvoted. 0.25mm z distance. • 75% xy distance. • 3mm support spacing. • 4 interface lagers. • 0.2mm interface layer spacing.
endings are hard for me (i blame the autism), so ive been saving this finale for a time i felt emotionally ready to face it. challenger approaching and pb precipice have long been my favorite hotfix shows, due in no small part to you, adef. your energy is infectious and anything with you in it is guaranteed to be a fun time. im just a vod frog, but ill miss checking the playlist for new uploads. thanks for the years of content, with a playlist i know i can always go back to to rewatch some classics. looking forward to cool new stuff on your main channel and vods channel as always
I did this yesterday, snug rectilinear. Zero interface gap. 3 thick interface layers. And used PETG as the support material for a PLA print. Supports fell off with zero effort and left a very attractive surface finish.
The real secret support material is to design action figures with their hands up, and place them where needed to hold up your design with their fingertips. Break them free, and you have your part, and some action figures, too. You can all them something like The Hold 'Em Up Gang. Collect all 896.
This is standard on my ender 3 SE! Got it on a whim due to a disagreement with the boss, and his, taking a week to print 1 single prototype part. Straigut oht of the box, sliced without any settings, it used this on a part with a straight 90 degree overhang, and printed perfectly! Really happy to see that 3d printing is getting better. I was really put off a few years ago by how mindblowingly shit works ender 5 pro was, now it seems like magic 😂
And they all get misinformation. Never had an issue with tree supports, and never need to use anything but the same material as what I'm printing with. I guess if you have strange geometry you might need soluble support, but that's about it.
I consider 3D painting as watching art, this is the same think as watching the Wood toy maker explaining how his tools cause Wood to shape in very specific way, it's interesting, even if you don't have those tools and you don't actively create Wooden toys.
I think the best way to do it would be to print something else that will fit inside the geometry of where the suppports for the larger piece will be, and then just bridge the two objects with support material. You're gonna be extruding that plastic either way, might as well make something useful out of it!
Ive had zero issues removing normal or tree supports using Bambu Studio and my P1S. Even with vertical honeycomb parts, with supports for every honeycomb opening. They pop off very easily and usually require no extra cleaning
I use a dual nozzle printer when I’m printing something that needs supports. Then I just do the supports similar to this but in a more rubberized (still strong tho just more flexible) filament and then do the actual print in the normal filament. They pop off fully cleanly, and I’ve never had these supports actually fail before due to structural issues, have had them fail due to printing or nozzle or feed issues though lol. Even under extremely heavy large print loads they simply don’t crack and fail because of that extra flexibility, yet when you apply a quick twisting force to them to remove them they just pop right off with little to no cleanup needed because the more rubbery filament sticks far better to itself than to anything else so it doesn’t leave anything behind, except maybe some printing artifact from having supports there in the first place but that only happens on crazy complex stuff and is easy to clean up.
Or if youre using an AMS unit, just use a different material as the interface layer. PETG for PLA, and vice versa. And set the z gap to 0.0mm, because the 2 filaments dont stick to each other.
I have always created my own supports when I model it. Sometimes I'll make it part of the model so it doesn't have to be removed. I just feel like the automatic ways will never be good enough for me.
These support are the best, still a had one mess up and correct itself many lines up, before the support was actually needed...i know that probably doesn't make sense make sense to
I think it would be cool if the maneater, if you take care of it, would defend the player taking care of it. Or maybe it would make it too easy, I don't have a computer so I can't play, but it's a cool concept.
can you do a short to short on how to block off an area to print on a bed you already have somehing printed on. Terrible description but i think you get it. In bambu or orca slicer please
shit. I have been waiting for years so cura could add the paint-support-placement feature. I also need the option to use cube modifications to dictate where I want layer hight to change
If you want to learn more, be sure to watch the full video via the link in the bottom left!
Did u show my 3d printed car body at the start of this wow
What software you use?
What is the slicer though??
@@Lomhow slicer is where you put 3d model and it writes instructions for 3d printer.
Best one is MatterControl (cura is awful)
@@LomhowOrca Slicer
Orca has a really great feature called "hybrid tree support". It basically prints the supports as actual objects, with infill density and pattern that you can set to help give the trees the best mechanical properties possible while still reducing interface size. The only downside I've seen to this new feature so far is that it disables the variable layer height feature for objects while active.
Can you export the new geometry? I would try reimporting it and then slicing everything again.
Seems like they "just" need to recalculate the slicing for the whole model after adding the new geometry. Slicing only the new geometry would result in bugs. I would say disabling it is probably a stopgap until they figure out a solution they like.
How do I download orca? I've tried to look but I can't find anything on how to do it
@@orbatos I believe it is already using the variable layer height function for the hybrid trees, to maximize overhang strength and angle. I think it would just take unreasonably long to solve for multiple variable layer heights on the same plate.
@@wisdomofnotch I wonder about that, as it would change the external finish and potentially compromise the design in other ways. I'll have to mess with it myself, haven't used orca in a while
What do you mean it prints them as "actual objects"
Rectum linear grid. Got it
wait no 😭
😦
I’m shook-
YOU CAUGHT HIM IN 4K-
It might be linear, but it definitely isn't straight.
OMG! Thank you!!! I have had a project just kicking my rear, and this worked.
I have something else kicking my rear.
Wow, I loved this tip! It's like a lifeline when things go wrong with supports! 🤯 I think experimenting with different support types really opens up creativity in 3D printing. Can't wait to try this out! 🎨
organic tree support with 0.5 support distance is 😘.use less support material and they pop off ease with minimal to no clean up
100% i thought he was going to mention that in the video. For my printer the perfect top support distance is 0.22 now they pop off perfectly
I use .3 instead of the default .2 and have had good results
@@00000EDDY00000 i might have put mine too far based off yall setting😄
You mean support z-distance or support x/y-distance?
@@calamityjane9826 support/object distance but thats in orca ,i dont know the settings name in cura or other slicer
"When all support structures fail, I turn to this one".
Any reason why it should be last in the list then?
full video goes into it further, but the columns are very strong so can be harder to remove or damage fragile prints. It uses more material as well, but worth it for success!
@@MakersMuse Thanks!
I don't think they really answered your question. My best guess is that this structure is less materially efficient. If your project can utilize simpler structures, use them. Otherwise, this is structure is nearly always a safe bet.
@@EvilMinion111Makers Muse: already answered question
You:
@@EvilMinion111they LITERALLY DID answer the question and the commenter replied to them saying “thanks”
Not so secret anymore thanks to you! I've always hated supports on TPU. I used this, and added 50% to the distance, so if it was .2, now .3, and it worked incredibly well!
Cura, tree support, 70% interface and 1 later thickness between support and part. Easy, been using it since the introduction of tree support.
Agreed, takes some testing with your printer to get it 100% (1 layer is fine for 0.2, but too little for 0.1 for example, also cooling, speed and all) but once you do, it's night and day difference between any no interface support and that. Removes beautifully and as close as it gets to no support finish on the surface.
nothing is as satisfying as getting a good friend and be funny
Finally a useful short. Thanks I'll try this out. My current supports are creating havoc on the underside for some reason.
I spy a kemono head base, always get a kick at the subtle hints in your videos!
Was thinking the same thing, wow that looks like a fursuit head
Oh that's not just any kigmask.
That's a pony kigmask!
I found Angus years and years ago when he was printing Twilights in his parents basement and acetone smoothing them with a rice cooker
What, how did I not even notice?!
That’s exactly what I was thinking!! I was just searching for it!!
YEAHH i noticed this too
If u got a mmu printer, meaning it can print in more than one color/filament, just use pva for the supports, its made of cornstarch so its water soluble
GENIUS. I can't stand seeing so much plastic waste being made. Especially when they're using MORE plastic in the supports than the actual printed product itself. ☠️🤦♀️🤷♀️🤣
I built an mmu printer for just this, but pva is a pain, and petg and pla are incompatible materials. I primarily print in petg, so I just run some white pla for my support interface and boom pops right off when done.
PVA is made of PVA, not cornstarch. It is water soluble though and you're allowed to flush it down the drain. It is the most biodegradable of petrochemicals but as always scientific inquiry and debate is ongoing whether it's actually harmless or only sorta kinda harmless.
It's also a complete pest to work with and horrendously expensive.
@@cececox6399 the OP got it completely backwards. The actual hard plastic is made from cornstarch, it's a long chain sugar of lactic acid, PLA. With chain length, water solubility decreases drastically, and by the time it can be moulded and hold shape, it's not water soluble at all.
The PVA water soluble support material is a petrochemical and it's also a main ingredient of paper glue.
@@SianaGearz can confirm PVA is an absolute pain to print with and cost an arm and a leg. I dehydrate it regularly before use, and then print out of a heated dry box, and even then it's still not perfect. And it stinks to high heaven. I only use it in the rarest circumstances, usually something with TPU or an extremely flexible filament that doesn't like bridging.
my fav support is; tree - slim + %10 density + 0.4mm top z offset + 60 degree instead of 45 + and finally "only buildplate" option enabled
Yes! I use Snug and lower densities about 80% of the time and never have problems removing support. Tree supports are a revelation, but that doesn't mean they are always the best choice.
I swear, my phone is listening to me- I was talking about it with a friend, and this is EXACTLY what I thought would be a problem trying to 3D print my first thing!
These settings can work great. I found a post from Reddit while doing research and it was highly upvoted.
0.25mm z distance.
• 75% xy distance.
• 3mm support spacing.
• 4 interface lagers.
• 0.2mm interface layer spacing.
endings are hard for me (i blame the autism), so ive been saving this finale for a time i felt emotionally ready to face it. challenger approaching and pb precipice have long been my favorite hotfix shows, due in no small part to you, adef. your energy is infectious and anything with you in it is guaranteed to be a fun time. im just a vod frog, but ill miss checking the playlist for new uploads. thanks for the years of content, with a playlist i know i can always go back to to rewatch some classics. looking forward to cool new stuff on your main channel and vods channel as always
I did this yesterday, snug rectilinear. Zero interface gap. 3 thick interface layers. And used PETG as the support material for a PLA print. Supports fell off with zero effort and left a very attractive surface finish.
The organic support is perfect and saves and plastic👍
Sometimes the best solution is to make your 3d prints a two parter so you can reduce or fully eliminate the need for supporting material.
The real secret support material is to design action figures with their hands up, and place them where needed to hold up your design with their fingertips. Break them free, and you have your part, and some action figures, too. You can all them something like The Hold 'Em Up Gang. Collect all 896.
If you simply tube your supports, and support can be both perfectly functional and also remove easy.
I like trees, and they come off pretty easy too.
Might have to get a 3D printer JUST for the satisfying effect
I love listening to the crunchy supports
Tree is awesome
Uses less filament
Looks cool as hell
Isn’t a pain in the ass to take of 95% of the time
I use PETG for interface material on PLA models. Super clean. Takes a bit more time but worth it for important parts
This is standard on my ender 3 SE! Got it on a whim due to a disagreement with the boss, and his, taking a week to print 1 single prototype part. Straigut oht of the box, sliced without any settings, it used this on a part with a straight 90 degree overhang, and printed perfectly! Really happy to see that 3d printing is getting better. I was really put off a few years ago by how mindblowingly shit works ender 5 pro was, now it seems like magic 😂
Fun fact: 95% of the people watching this video don't actually have a 3d printer
Like me
Just got 1 a week ago. Took me 10 long years to finally get one.
Now I'm realizing all the important information I have glossed over.
100% in this house. But yeah, I still watched it.
And they all get misinformation. Never had an issue with tree supports, and never need to use anything but the same material as what I'm printing with. I guess if you have strange geometry you might need soluble support, but that's about it.
I consider 3D painting as watching art, this is the same think as watching the Wood toy maker explaining how his tools cause Wood to shape in very specific way, it's interesting, even if you don't have those tools and you don't actively create Wooden toys.
Since orca slicer 2.2.0 the default(automatic) normal tree works just fantastically!
just found this yesterday and NOW the video gets recommended to me 😭
I think the best way to do it would be to print something else that will fit inside the geometry of where the suppports for the larger piece will be, and then just bridge the two objects with support material. You're gonna be extruding that plastic either way, might as well make something useful out of it!
That mouse support structure looks like a great momento and of algorithim generated art
I thought that 3dprinting was like magic and you could make something without a support, this is so cool tho! So thats how it works 🤔
I use "Organic, slim", "build plate only" and set the interface layer to be PETG-- one of the advantages of multi-material.
Holy shit that is so satisfying to see
If u go to bambu lab store they have a special support filament that is water soluble
Either hes part of both fanbases or this is an order. Hopefully its the former. One of us, one of us.
One of us one of us.
it's my favorite as well, clean and helpful
Ive had zero issues removing normal or tree supports using Bambu Studio and my P1S. Even with vertical honeycomb parts, with supports for every honeycomb opening. They pop off very easily and usually require no extra cleaning
Only time I have issues is when there is a lot of branches in tight spaces. Usually deep or long spaces with lots of spread on the contact area.
Awesome advice 😊
I’ve learned from someone that PLA and PETG, don’t stick together and to try using opposite material for supports
Qidi has it as default in their slicer. I wondered why those supports were so much easier to remove than the default on my Prusa. Now I know.
Kigurumi base spotted
Casually printing a Kenobi suit
Cool Innovation though maybe the support structure there could be turned into door stops for Dollar general type stores lol!
I use a dual nozzle printer when I’m printing something that needs supports. Then I just do the supports similar to this but in a more rubberized (still strong tho just more flexible) filament and then do the actual print in the normal filament. They pop off fully cleanly, and I’ve never had these supports actually fail before due to structural issues, have had them fail due to printing or nozzle or feed issues though lol. Even under extremely heavy large print loads they simply don’t crack and fail because of that extra flexibility, yet when you apply a quick twisting force to them to remove them they just pop right off with little to no cleanup needed because the more rubbery filament sticks far better to itself than to anything else so it doesn’t leave anything behind, except maybe some printing artifact from having supports there in the first place but that only happens on crazy complex stuff and is easy to clean up.
Design your supports and life becomes so much easier
You should create designs in the support material to limit waste.
Taking supports of is one of my favorite things about 3D printing
Super secret, built right into the menu
I always use snug.. It is even a faster print than tree support, with more support surface
I've just been using bambu's organic(hybrid) and it works just fine
Or if youre using an AMS unit, just use a different material as the interface layer. PETG for PLA, and vice versa. And set the z gap to 0.0mm, because the 2 filaments dont stick to each other.
me without any access to a 3D printer: "interesting"
My supports have never come off like that xD it’s a saw & sharp knife & sanding for me xD
I stopped printing because of it..
Sounds like you’re removing those Support structures inside of some kind of cavern 😂
I have such a man crush bromance for Angus lol, its the HAIR!! ha!!
Commenting on every video i see!! Maybe sat hi??
I have always created my own supports when I model it. Sometimes I'll make it part of the model so it doesn't have to be removed. I just feel like the automatic ways will never be good enough for me.
Imagine using support PLA for this too so you don't waste precious filament especially on a larger print
i don’t even have a 3d printer but i watched all of it
Would be nice to figure out a way to grind and reuse all of that support material.
Support failing is not a problem, support removal is a real problem
Those remind me of high heels, like actual heels from shoes 🤭
These support are the best, still a had one mess up and correct itself many lines up, before the support was actually needed...i know that probably doesn't make sense make sense to
Dude discovered normal supports and made a shirt about it lol
I hate supports so much I’ve considered modifying my printer to add a head specifically for the water soluble support material you can buy
I know absolutely nothing about 3D printing, except that it looks cool. Can you remelt the support structures to use again?
We see what you're doing :3 Continue!
Or just use Matte PLA, supports with those (and the print) come off real easy.
Thats one way to move tons of plastic into the garbage
I think it would be cool if the maneater, if you take care of it, would defend the player taking care of it. Or maybe it would make it too easy, I don't have a computer so I can't play, but it's a cool concept.
WAIT WAIT WAIT
is angus secretly a part of the furry fandom?
Maybe 🤯
wish I was rich enough to afford a 3d printer
anycubic, Kobra series , ebay, refurbished (no less than 90% refurbished), you're welcome
Conversely, recycling those supports is just as frustratingly hard. More support material = more microplastics in your own drinking water
Why not just use a support filament at the interface?
nice fursuit head.
🗣️🔥real
I enjoy using supports
what'cha printing there angus 👀
A fursuit 🤯
🤫
Chinese kemono fursuit mask.
Look them up, they're sick af.
should have known this yesterday
I just use trees
erm actually, this is the default support type for Creality Print
🤓🤓🤓🤓
Thank you Pip
Me watching this video knowing full well I will never buy a 3d printer in my life
I’ve seen enough to recognize that’s a fursuit head base 😂
lollll
WAIT is angus a furry?
massive W if he is
Real
But like fursuits look cringe as hell. I have nothing against furries but those costumes cause me physical pain
@@dabbingraccoons6416 thats fine if you dont like them. I have nothing against you
@@ZekeTheFur no I think they are amazingly built and well crafted and I just have bias.
@@dabbingraccoons6416 oh alr!! Thats fine. Im fine with you even if you find it cringe
Is there a way to make just support material? It looks so cool
What do you do with all the support materials and anything other scraps
I hate seeing waste
Does the support come with reverb?👀
I will try this for sure
blender irl whoaaas.. 🇴🇲 thats crazy!! 🇳🇴
nice tip. thank you
can you do a short to short on how to block off an area to print on a bed you already have somehing printed on. Terrible description but i think you get it. In bambu or orca slicer please
Printing the base for a fursuit head? Interesting
i know where you live
I know where you take your shits every afternoon
crealitys slicers use this or something similar as the default and to my knowledge the only support type
Imagine amount of waste material produced by not splitting your model so it won't need supports🥰
Prusaslicer settings please!! 🙏🏼
What's this slicer
Thanks my printer just made solid blocks for support
shit. I have been waiting for years so cura could add the paint-support-placement feature. I also need the option to use cube modifications to dictate where I want layer hight to change
what is Wheatley yapping about😭