Your not an idiot. And I enjoyed watching. I had a GoolRC combo with a bad esc also. That being said. I have also prematurely puffed a small crawler battery in a higher kv vehicle. Batteries under 4000 mAh struggle with providing enough amps for a slash. You can test it yourself. If it runs faster on a 2s 5000 mAh than your 2s 2000mAh, it is straining or degrading your electronics and battery. Thanks for taking the time to make videos!
Jeremiah. .. wth?!? I dont think you have ever mentioned this channel on the MTB channel. Im glad I found this! Im big in to RC crawlers too . . . SUBSCRIBED!
Dude! Thanks brother 🙏 I wanted it to be organic....I could mention it but i wanted people here for crawling 😉 Thank you for being here and finding me brother.
Thanks-a bit of a surprise! Bad ESC. PS-get the black programming card that emulates the chart that came with the kit. Program it for the starting "punch". I set my wife's EMAXX for 10 on that. I also went for the maximum Neutral position; really improved the driveability. The main issue with these inexpensive ESCs is that you have to go with cutoff voltage at 3.1 or it will brown out. To avoid ruining expensive batteries, I just put a low voltage alarm on the balance plug. These can be purchased at $3-4 each. I use them on my aircraft as cheap insurance! I ordered a kit for my Associated RC10T3. Runs better on 3S for sure. Have fun!
Haha, it seems like it. In all fairness, I used to race short course RC trucks before we ever started Wolftick Videos and we just had got out of it. Scale crawling is something that we really enjoy without it being a 50 hour a week job...at least yet😉😆 Thanks man👍
The servo is slow because of the bec of the esc which is limited to the 5 volts so if you want it to be faster and stronger then you have to use a separate battery plugged into the battery slot on the receiver, by unplugging the red wire on the esc and you also get more run time (like a little bit) and lots of servos can handle 6 volts of power, they just limit the volts on the esc so they don't over heat the circuit board of the esc, not bad combo for a budget basher setup and also good for a quick fix to keep having fun until you can get a better system later down the road
Thank you for a great review!!!! -So to EVERYONE that just uses a "guess" wether a LiPo has enough "juice" to run a motor, and yes it is the MOTOR that decides...(motor+rc-weight+terrain)...how much juice is needed to operate properly, NOT the ESC and DEFINITELY not the LiPo, its the motor demands power, the ESC gives it the power, the LiPo supplies that power to the ESC to give to the motor; PLEASE use math vs a guess, ty. That said lets start RC MATH Class 101. Ah × "C" Rating = LiPo Amp Output. mAh is MILLI amp hours. Move your decimal place to the right and you have Ah. For an example we will use the 5000mAh 11.1v 60c LiPo in the video. A 5000mAh LiPo would be the same stated as 5Ah LiPo. You just have 5Amps per hour versus 5000 milli amps per hour. Take your 5Ah and multiply it by your "C" rating which is the rating that tells you how many Amps your LiPo can supply in a constant output (in general you can double this number and that would be your "burst" output rating of maybe a few seconds depending on your LiPo quality). So in our example our equation would look like this (5ah × 60c)=300Amps. The Lipo in our example can supply 240 MORE amps than the ESC would ever ask for, and 530 more burst amps. I believe i have the same smaller LiPo used in the first video, it has a "C" rating of 25. This means it has a 35amp constant output. Now that is almost half what the motor would ask of the ESC but ONLY if the Truck was going full speed, up a hill, in tall grass!!!! NOT held in the air with barely any resistance. Just because an ESC is rated for 60a constant does not mean it is delivering 60amps at all times & everytime you pull the trigger!!!! The first law of thermodynamics is FRICTION, we have not a whole hell of a lot of friction when testing a motor on a workbench! So the motor may be asking for about 3 maybe 5 amps! 8amps if it was the worst, most inefficient, and high friction motor ever made and if the truck was binding at every corner and had heaps of cheap plastic bushings and zero lube ANYWHERE! But thats not the case here. So that small LiPo would not have any problem running that motor on that ESC with the truck held in the air like it was, not even if it was on the ground if it was a flat & level surface. Get yourself an Amp Tool to see how many amps your battery is supplying your ESC at any given time, and/or a SkyRC Motor Analyzer to see just how many amps your motor is demanding at any given RPM. The motor Analyser is a fantastic tool to get your motors tuned to be their most powerful while also being their most efficient. The peepz lapping you at the track may all have a Motor Analyser, and they probably have ESCs that supply 15 to 20% more power than their motor will need, and their LiPos can supply their ESCs with 15 to 20% more amps than the ESC will need. This is the best way to keep LiPos healthy, ESCs resilient and motors fast and torqued up! All you have to worry about then is your FDR but thats for another day and someone else's TH-cam video comment section!😅 (btw, supplying electronics with not enough power will wear them out quickly, for example: brown outs are far worse on your lcd tv than black outs!) Bell 🔔 rings, math class over, rc remote dropped.😮😅
Looks like a 6 channel Dumborc transmitter. If so you can buy a receiver with a gyro. And adjust the gyro with the 6th channel on the transmitter. Works great.
Now that sounds awesome! You know I tried a gyro recovery setup with my crawler lol, i sent it back!! Should of kept it 💯 The gyro would be great on the Gool for sure, thanks man.
Good review of this budget combo. I put a goolrc 3660 3300kv motor in mine and it is really fast. The 3660 is the size of the traxxas brushless slash comes with. It’s good to know they took care of the problem. Get that slash out on a dirt oval it is a blast!
Hell yeah man! Thanks for the comment and watching the channel. I was just talking about an oval track lol. Thins thing is way hard to control on asphalt 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks again and see you on the next brother
There's a chance the ESC needed to be calibrated.. Some come calibrated, some don't. Each ESC has a different process, Google your particular ESC & you'll find out how to do it. It's usually just a combination of turning it on with with your controller in a particular way. I'd highly recommend Hobbywing ESC's, they're a bit more expensive but they're very, very good, I've got 7 of them & I've had one of them for over 4 years & I regular use them all. Plus they're completely waterproof & don't need a program card.
Man it's all about helping someone who is asking, not a problem at all man. No need for an apology, it's all good man. See you on the next, should be a Top 10 fails 👍👍😆
Get a gyro or a radiolink controller and receiver that has the gyro built in and you will be really happy because you get a lot more control and can keep it straight when you want
That guys whole point about the battery not having enough power is the fact that just because it’s the right voltage doesn’t mean it has the power needed to sustain constant use. For example that 3s is 11v 4s would be 14 something and a car alternator puts out anywhere from high 12 to mid 14 and even sometimes 15 v But that doesn’t mean that 4s Lipo could start a car 😂😂😂
If you get the program card and learn all the values of the settings and where they need to be it will really wake it up. Not needed but highly recommended. I love mine,at first thought it was bad too.
I was curious if it could make a huge difference. I have never had a program card, but a long time ago i remember an esc that allowed me to change some settings and it was AMAZING! I just might look at that though, thank you for the help Boo Boo We will get there man👍
@@arkansasrcnewbie it was my first program card,it turned out to be very simple but super effective. I actually started out with my slash way over geared,I could not even get it to move under its own power at all until I got the program card. The factory settings are set very soft so you don’t tear up your rig right off the bat.
You sir have the beginnings of a budget basher. She's pretty peppy too! Important side note - do NOT put 6s in there! 🔥🔫😅 Maybe 4s if you're feeling brave...
I mean for a combo it’s pretty cheap but you can save up a little bit more for a decent setup that is sensored and from a decent brand like the hobbywing bl120
Dude your not a idiot, If you don't know something you don't know. That's why we experiment. This is a hobby after all. don't let dumbasses screw that up for you.
Thank you so much for the comment brother. I appreciate the support, we have all got to go thru some trial and error sometimes lol. Wish everyone can understand as much as you.
I ran mine with a small battery & it was Fast,, it was bigger than yours though. Much Less weight... still have the cogging after a couple years & just changed the pinion & now it doesn’t have immediate response like it used to. Will still do 3 wheelies in a row & flip if i dont the wheelie...
Good video and your not an idiot. However it was not even close to as fast as it should have been with a brushless 2S setup. I don't think it's because of the battery though. My son's factory brushed 2WD Slash with a Nimh battery is at least as fast if not faster. I have a castle 3800kv on 2S in a redcat blackout and it's way faster than even the 3S in this video.
You are not an idiot. If you have 7.4volts and it is full the worst that would happen is your car would not accelerate very fast du to too low amperage. It would also become depleted quickly due to the lack of Mah (Milli amp hours). I use smaller batteries in my Tamiya sand scorcher all the time and for testing my gear on the bench.
A year later E bay are still selling these kits with the same faulty Esc i have requested a refund on mine & returned it bought another brand with a programe card heres hoping.
You know I switched the throttle switch to reverse. Then i played with the wires going into the battery. The amount of power is now insane! Try switching the cables around like I did, after I noticed the intense reverse as opposed to the forward, I switched them.
@@arkansasrcnewbie I know this is old but I saw where it was faster in reverse than forward in the video. I was about to comment with advice to switch 2 of the motor wires around and most definitely get the proper program card for it. The program cards really bring the potential out of these little budget systems and are well with the extra cost. These small issues are what drives a lot of people away from the hobby and I hate that. I'm so glad you got it sorted out good stuff man!
I briefly owned some of these goolRC Esc motor combos. Pure junk. Sent them all back. It’s $50 that should go towards a decent electronic like a castle or Hobbywing.
Your not an idiot. And I enjoyed watching. I had a GoolRC combo with a bad esc also. That being said. I have also prematurely puffed a small crawler battery in a higher kv vehicle. Batteries under 4000 mAh struggle with providing enough amps for a slash. You can test it yourself. If it runs faster on a 2s 5000 mAh than your 2s 2000mAh, it is straining or degrading your electronics and battery. Thanks for taking the time to make videos!
Hey brother, thanks for the comment and verification of me not being an idiot!! LOL I appreciate the support and hope to see you on the next 👍
Sweet you got it right nice !!! Hope your still having fun
I am having a blast man, cannot wait tonsee were this channel goes. Thanks for the comments
Jeremiah. .. wth?!? I dont think you have ever mentioned this channel on the MTB channel. Im glad I found this! Im big in to RC crawlers too . . . SUBSCRIBED!
Dude! Thanks brother 🙏 I wanted it to be organic....I could mention it but i wanted people here for crawling 😉 Thank you for being here and finding me brother.
@@arkansasrcnewbie I feel you man . . . . Well so far Ive enjoyed every video and Im glad I found it. Wish you the best with this channel!
Interesting that the esc was the culprit. Glad ya got it up n running
Me too man! Thanks for checking the video, this thing runs like a scolded dog!! 💪💪😉
Thanks-a bit of a surprise! Bad ESC. PS-get the black programming card that emulates the chart that came with the kit. Program it for the starting "punch". I set my wife's EMAXX for 10 on that. I also went for the maximum Neutral position; really improved the driveability. The main issue with these inexpensive ESCs is that you have to go with cutoff voltage at 3.1 or it will brown out. To avoid ruining expensive batteries, I just put a low voltage alarm on the balance plug. These can be purchased at $3-4 each. I use them on my aircraft as cheap insurance! I ordered a kit for my Associated RC10T3. Runs better on 3S for sure. Have fun!
Man thanks for the awesome comment! That's a great idea brother, appreciate you looking out 👍
Man I swear every mountain bike channel even my own have converted RC‘s with mountain bikes lol
Haha, it seems like it. In all fairness, I used to race short course RC trucks before we ever started Wolftick Videos and we just had got out of it. Scale crawling is something that we really enjoy without it being a 50 hour a week job...at least yet😉😆 Thanks man👍
Ok I fall into that class myself. As soon as I finish my coffee. I am going riding and bring my crawlers and short truck for the dune.
The servo is slow because of the bec of the esc which is limited to the 5 volts so if you want it to be faster and stronger then you have to use a separate battery plugged into the battery slot on the receiver, by unplugging the red wire on the esc and you also get more run time (like a little bit) and lots of servos can handle 6 volts of power, they just limit the volts on the esc so they don't over heat the circuit board of the esc, not bad combo for a budget basher setup and also good for a quick fix to keep having fun until you can get a better system later down the road
Thanks for the info brother, such a good idea. Kinda like a BEC huh?
Thank you for a great review!!!!
-So to EVERYONE that just uses a "guess" wether a LiPo has enough "juice" to run a motor, and yes it is the MOTOR that decides...(motor+rc-weight+terrain)...how much juice is needed to operate properly,
NOT the ESC and DEFINITELY not the LiPo, its the motor demands power, the ESC gives it the power, the LiPo supplies that power to the ESC to give to the motor; PLEASE use math vs a guess, ty.
That said lets start RC MATH Class 101.
Ah × "C" Rating = LiPo Amp Output.
mAh is MILLI amp hours. Move your decimal place to the right and you have Ah. For an example we will use the 5000mAh 11.1v 60c LiPo in the video. A 5000mAh LiPo would be the same stated as 5Ah LiPo. You just have 5Amps per hour versus 5000 milli amps per hour.
Take your 5Ah and multiply it by your "C" rating which is the rating that tells you how many Amps your LiPo can supply in a constant output (in general you can double this number and that would be your "burst" output rating of maybe a few seconds depending on your LiPo quality).
So in our example our equation would look like this
(5ah × 60c)=300Amps.
The Lipo in our example can supply 240 MORE amps than the ESC would ever ask for, and 530 more burst amps. I believe i have the same smaller LiPo used in the first video, it has a "C" rating of 25. This means it has a 35amp constant output. Now that is almost half what the motor would ask of the ESC but ONLY if the Truck was going full speed, up a hill, in tall grass!!!! NOT held in the air with barely any resistance. Just because an ESC is rated for 60a constant does not mean it is delivering 60amps at all times & everytime you pull the trigger!!!!
The first law of thermodynamics is FRICTION, we have not a whole hell of a lot of friction when testing a motor on a workbench! So the motor may be asking for about 3 maybe 5 amps! 8amps if it was the worst, most inefficient, and high friction motor ever made and if the truck was binding at every corner and had heaps of cheap plastic bushings and zero lube ANYWHERE! But thats not the case here. So that small LiPo would not have any problem running that motor on that ESC with the truck held in the air like it was, not even if it was on the ground if it was a flat & level surface.
Get yourself an Amp Tool to see how many amps your battery is supplying your ESC at any given time, and/or a SkyRC Motor Analyzer to see just how many amps your motor is demanding at any given RPM. The motor Analyser is a fantastic tool to get your motors tuned to be their most powerful while also being their most efficient. The peepz lapping you at the track may all have a Motor Analyser, and they probably have ESCs that supply 15 to 20% more power than their motor will need, and their LiPos can supply their ESCs with 15 to 20% more amps than the ESC will need. This is the best way to keep LiPos healthy, ESCs resilient and motors fast and torqued up! All you have to worry about then is your FDR but thats for another day and someone else's TH-cam video comment section!😅
(btw, supplying electronics with not enough power will wear them out quickly, for example: brown outs are far worse on your lcd tv than black outs!)
Bell 🔔 rings, math class over, rc remote dropped.😮😅
Man thank you for the truth bomb lol, I appreciate the love and input man. Hope to see you round more often
The good ole grab bag, never know what you get!
🤣
Looks like a 6 channel Dumborc transmitter. If so you can buy a receiver with a gyro. And adjust the gyro with the 6th channel on the transmitter. Works great.
Now that sounds awesome! You know I tried a gyro recovery setup with my crawler lol, i sent it back!! Should of kept it 💯 The gyro would be great on the Gool for sure, thanks man.
Good review of this budget combo. I put a goolrc 3660 3300kv motor in mine and it is really fast. The 3660 is the size of the traxxas brushless slash comes with. It’s good to know they took care of the problem. Get that slash out on a dirt oval it is a blast!
Hell yeah man! Thanks for the comment and watching the channel. I was just talking about an oval track lol. Thins thing is way hard to control on asphalt 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks again and see you on the next brother
There's a chance the ESC needed to be calibrated..
Some come calibrated, some don't.
Each ESC has a different process, Google your particular ESC & you'll find out how to do it.
It's usually just a combination of turning it on with with your controller in a particular way.
I'd highly recommend Hobbywing ESC's, they're a bit more expensive but they're very, very good, I've got 7 of them & I've had one of them for over 4 years & I regular use them all.
Plus they're completely waterproof & don't need a program card.
Man, that sounds great! I've got one for the crawler but maybe a basher one is needed🤘appreciate the advice brother 🙏
This happened to me as well, it is just a programming deal. purchase a cheap program card and setup the esc and it was good to go.
Tick sorry I bugged you on the other video. Didnt know you had already got if fixed. Glad its fixed and running now though!
Man it's all about helping someone who is asking, not a problem at all man. No need for an apology, it's all good man. See you on the next, should be a Top 10 fails 👍👍😆
Get a gyro or a radiolink controller and receiver that has the gyro built in and you will be really happy because you get a lot more control and can keep it straight when you want
Man that's a great idea! You know I had one and returned it !! Lol I had no clue 😅
That guys whole point about the battery not having enough power is the fact that just because it’s the right voltage doesn’t mean it has the power needed to sustain constant use.
For example that 3s is 11v 4s would be 14 something and a car alternator puts out anywhere from high 12 to mid 14 and even sometimes 15 v
But that doesn’t mean that 4s Lipo could start a car 😂😂😂
🤣🤣
If you get the program card and learn all the values of the settings and where they need to be it will really wake it up. Not needed but highly recommended. I love mine,at first thought it was bad too.
I was curious if it could make a huge difference. I have never had a program card, but a long time ago i remember an esc that allowed me to change some settings and it was AMAZING! I just might look at that though, thank you for the help Boo Boo We will get there man👍
@@arkansasrcnewbie it was my first program card,it turned out to be very simple but super effective. I actually started out with my slash way over geared,I could not even get it to move under its own power at all until I got the program card. The factory settings are set very soft so you don’t tear up your rig right off the bat.
They shouldn’t sell it without the program card,just another 15 bucks though.
May I know what settings you changed with the card? Thanks a lot
You sir have the beginnings of a budget basher. She's pretty peppy too!
Important side note - do NOT put 6s in there! 🔥🔫😅
Maybe 4s if you're feeling brave...
🤣🤣 I'm all in $50!! Man this thing is fun💪 Thanks Kip and cannot imagine a 6s!!😲😲
I mean for a combo it’s pretty cheap but you can save up a little bit more for a decent setup that is sensored and from a decent brand like the hobbywing bl120
Absolutely man, please watch the next episode! Filmed today featuring the Gool!! Thanks brother
I kno thos a old video bt wat color combo did u us on motor and esc
Dude your not a idiot, If you don't know something you don't know. That's why we experiment. This is a hobby after all. don't let dumbasses screw that up for you.
Thank you so much for the comment brother. I appreciate the support, we have all got to go thru some trial and error sometimes lol. Wish everyone can understand as much as you.
I ran mine with a small battery & it was Fast,, it was bigger than yours though. Much Less weight... still have the cogging after a couple years & just changed the pinion & now it doesn’t have immediate response like it used to. Will still do 3 wheelies in a row & flip if i dont the wheelie...
Awesome to hear! Finally someone who has tried a small battery! Lol I get crap for that constantly 🙃 thanks for the comment man.
@@arkansasrcnewbie Your still getting 7.4 Volts... Don’t know why people would say that besides they don’t know how Lithium Batteries work.
I agree with not using that battery and why did you go from a small pack 2s to a big 3s instead of just a 5000 mah 2s 80c
Just wanted to see if the thing could handle it.
Good video and your not an idiot. However it was not even close to as fast as it should have been with a brushless 2S setup. I don't think it's because of the battery though. My son's factory brushed 2WD Slash with a Nimh battery is at least as fast if not faster. I have a castle 3800kv on 2S in a redcat blackout and it's way faster than even the 3S in this video.
Thanks brother, glad you agree lol. Thanks for the comment
That should run on 2s like it did on 3s. You need to program it with the card.
Yes sir, checkout the following videos. 👍
Glad you got it straight,that guy does not know what he is talking about with 2S. I run the same on mine with the program card and it scoots!!!!
🤣🤣 Much Love Boo Boo! LOL i knew i was not an idiot🤦♂️
@@arkansasrcnewbie absolutely not sir
Don’t listen to those critics who think they know everything. You did get a bad speed controller and that’s it.
🙏🙏
Thanks Brother 👍
You are not an idiot. If you have 7.4volts and it is full the worst that would happen is your car would not accelerate very fast du to too low amperage. It would also become depleted quickly due to the lack of Mah (Milli amp hours). I use smaller batteries in my Tamiya sand scorcher all the time and for testing my gear on the bench.
Thanks brother, people we're hating in the other video lol. Thank You
Nice
Thank you Cap Cip Gaming
A year later E bay are still selling these kits with the same faulty Esc i have requested a refund on mine & returned it bought another brand with a programe card heres hoping.
Good luck brother 🙏
Mine does what your first one did. Forward is reverse and reverse is forward.
You know I switched the throttle switch to reverse. Then i played with the wires going into the battery. The amount of power is now insane! Try switching the cables around like I did, after I noticed the intense reverse as opposed to the forward, I switched them.
@@arkansasrcnewbie I know this is old but I saw where it was faster in reverse than forward in the video. I was about to comment with advice to switch 2 of the motor wires around and most definitely get the proper program card for it. The program cards really bring the potential out of these little budget systems and are well with the extra cost. These small issues are what drives a lot of people away from the hobby and I hate that. I'm so glad you got it sorted out good stuff man!
What temps was your motor after running a while
Luke warm at best, I could touch it and the esc
Mine is running about 160
I briefly owned some of these goolRC Esc motor combos. Pure junk. Sent them all back. It’s $50 that should go towards a decent electronic like a castle or Hobbywing.
Man, you and everyone else. There name brand for a reason
How much kv is that one
3650kv
@@arkansasrcnewbie what gearing do you have like the pinion gear teeth and the spur gear teeth
Man i believe i mentioned it somewhere in the video. I think a 18T pinion, not too sure on the spur. Whatever comes stock on the slash@0utdoorsae
@@arkansasrcnewbie ok thanks
Goolrc escs are hit and miss
Well that sounds dead on lol. Glad I finally got the right combo 🙌
@@arkansasrcnewbie i run a lcg 2wd slash a good cheap esc i run is the hb wing 10bl120 great esc i thinks its like 55 bucks or so and so smooth