Where to find Auger Bits and How to Sharpen Them | Hand Tool Woodworking How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Where to find Auger Bits and How to Sharpen Them
I wanted to put together a video with information on auger bits for a long time now. this is a long how to on buying, finding, and sorting through auger bits. as hand tools go they are every ware but hard to find good quality auger bits for the hand drill and brace. also, I wanted to do a quick how-to on sharpening the brace and bit too. so here you go. how to sharpen an auger bit and how to find good auger bits.
Sence putting this video out I have found 2 makers that people say are trust worthy.
In North America - www.toolsforwo...
For those of you in Europe - www.oldtoolsto...
Auger bit File - amzn.to/2isvbXm
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Toolsforworkingwood sells newly manufactured Jennings pattern auger bits, I haven't tried them but from what I hear they are great quality. Priced in the 30-45 range each. They are pricy... Happy to have gotten old sets that work perfectly. Great video.
ya I just saw that. there is another company in Europe too. I linked both in the description.
Great video, actually. Very interesting. Very informative. I've got quite a few now and every one seems to work just fine but this has inspired me to inspect them more closely. The ones I bought last weekend for 50 cents each might not be so good.
you never know what you might find!
I close my eyes and I hear Owen Wilson teaching me about auger bits. 😂
Jokes aside, thank you for such an informative video. I’m going to start slowly building my collection.
Lol have fun with it man.
@@WoodByWright
I bought a 1/2" bit out of a pile in an open tool box at an antique shop. It's rusty as you'd imagine. I'm going to attempt to use it later today.
Do you avoid buying rusted auger bits?
Just picked up a whole set of vintage irwins for $15 on ebay... score!
Sweet. I love those fines.
FYI, lead screws aren't always as straightforward as they seem. Some lead screws are also double-threaded, so even though they look like they have a fine thread pitch, they can be pretty aggressive: cornishworkshop.blogspot.com/2013/02/lead-astray.html
Very true!
Thank you for explaining these in detail. I just picked up a 17 piece set in the olive drab bit roll. They are red devil 2400. They are in great shape.
One can purchase new Jennings Pattern Auger bits that are made by Fisch in Austria; Highland Woodworking provided the specs from the old bits.
So basically, the ones I bought at the sale yesterday are junk. Wished I seen this video two days ago.
I LOVE these old auger bits (reminds me of the ones my grandfather had). I have been collecting them but never knew how to determine good & bad or how to sharpen them, UNTIL NOW !!!! Thank you so much for this AWESOME video !!!! Yes, it was a boring video...LOL... the good kind of boring !
Thank you for making this video! I’m getting into woodworking and am shopping for my first brace and bits and this helped immensely! I feel much better prepared to shop for/use/care for these bits now!
I just closed the deal on a like new 17 pc set of Irwins in the box and with the instruction booklet (copywrite 1952). Yes they cost a pretty penny, no I don't care. I've been wanting a set like this ever since Wranglerstar showed off his set a few years ago.
I have another full set of loose Irwin augers with two sizes of exandables and a Worth 10" sweep brace......in a box......somewhere in dad's garage.
U sure do gotta always keep your eyes on those nickers... and your hand on your wallet.
you said nicker back here and i hyperfocused on nickerback, you know that band right? with their frontman chad augur
The band is actually called Nickleback… but close 😊
Would people buy refurbished auger bits? I am pretty sure I could replace the screw tip.
"Brace" yourself this is about "boring"... That's about a BIT funny.
Oh you are good!
LOL
you must do DRILLS for your ad-hoc comedy skills to really drive it home
You gave these words a hole new meaning.
Intro title says "Buger Bits". That's pretty awesome lol
Maybe .... depending on where you store them
Ya I did not see that tell I had uploaded. Oh Well!
Wood By Wright if anything it makes it more memorable. Good vid by the way!
Thank you for making this video, now the lot of us know what to look for and how to do maintenance on them 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thanks man. I hope people use the information well.
Thank you Sir.Very very useful.😅
Tremendous in depth information. I just inherited my grandfather’s bits and brace and this was exactly what I needed to know. Great work and thanks!
Thank you Wood By Wright. Please can modern auger bits be resharpened?
some of them yes and some no. it depends on the design, but most with a screw o the tip will be able to.
Thank you so much. This means much, that you replied. I sure am on to other of your videos. Blessings.
Thanks for the link to find an auger file. Now, THAT is on my 'Wish List'. I've got some old auger bits that I've picked up at second-hand stores...and a couple of braces. Haven't used them yet, but I'm getting ready to build myself a 'Low Roman Workbench' and I think it would be befitting to use these old hand tools to drill the holes for large dowels at the leg joints. Scored myself a 6X18 by eleven foot glue-lam to build my bench out of just the other day! It might be Big, but it sure is HEAVY!
Sounds like a fun project. Looking forward to seeing it.
I really like and appreciate how you clearly show, and explain what you are talking about. After watching this I would know what to look for in a good bit, and how to sharpen it. Just like your cross cut saw video, very informative thanks.
Oh great, now I have to find some bits with really fine threads :-) also, I've found a really small pilot hole will help a bit with a broken screw tip.
very true. dont have too much fun!
I'm not sure if these brands are newer than this video but Chris Schwarz recommends WoodOwl, which I believe are only available with hex shanks and require an adapter to use with a vintage brace. And I recently bought some Fisch augers with square shanks from Highland Woodworking.
Right on. I have a couple videos on those now that they came out.
Thx for the video.
Ha unfortunately for me I saw it after the fact, i.e. I already discovered how hard it is to acquire augur bits.
An interesting little rare aspect of the world.
Hi WBW, I inherited a variable diameter auger bit where the blade section can slide from 1" to just short of 2". (Its actually in mm and goes from 25 to 45 mm, made in Germany). Any thoughts on this type of auger bit? One good thing about the bit is that the blade section can be slid out for easier sharpening.
Those are a lot of fun. But they can be very frustrating. You've got to make sure that the extendable blade is incredibly sharp. Otherwise the center core will pull in faster changing the diameter of your cut. But they are very very useful.
Would drilling a pilot hole help with the bits that have damaged tips?
I have never tried that. I might have to experement!
The short answer is "yes"...
Very slightly longer than that... there's only a couple caveats to it.
1. You still need enough "snail" or "worm" left to have threads... sounds kind of obvious, but it bears mention. No threads, no pull, no go... I consider a minimum of three turns to be "feasible".
2. Kind of like digging a pilot hole for a bolt, you have to "gauge" the hole to the "snail" or "worm"... or rather, what's left of it. I tend to find a good bit for the intent (or two or three, depending on the particular auger and purposes in question)... and then pack that drill bit with the auger. Just do that, and you won't have the auger out and wonder what you did with that special drill bit that was so good for it. (limits frustrations)
AND 3. Relates back to #2 actually... You're only going to help yourself as far as your drill bit will pilot the hole. If you want to reach through a piece, you have to pilot THROUGH it... SO the reason I end up with two or three choice bits for a single auger is because it's the only auger that size, and I tend to have several thicknesses of work to use it on, short bits for thin work, LONG bits for BIG stuff...
AND yes, just for the record, I have augers that will drill for more than a foot and a half. They're hard as hell to find, expensive when you do... and a physical challenge to boot.
...but I'm not well known for being particularly sensible. {shrugs} so there's that. ;o)
Do you have any experiance with the jennings patern auger bits. They are expensive but you can get the full set from 1/4"-1" new.
Yes. I am not as much a fan as they tend to clog more, but a lot of people really like them.
Possibly dumb but still necessary questions:
1.) Is there an advantage to using an auger as opposed to a hand-powered drill?
you can use an auger in both of them they just take different augers. but mostly if you use a brace it is just for the fun of it. power drills are much faster and the cleanness of the cut just comes down to the bit being used
I have one with 15" usable length - shoulder of square to tip, but no number stamped. It measures 1/2"
sounds like a nice ships auger!
I haven't tried it myself, but here is an interesting (and simple ) technique to sharpen the lead screw www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/bracecleaning.html
I have wanted to see if that makes any difference. just never tried it!
I always heard the point referred to as the snail.
or the pig tail, drive shaft, and a bunch of other names. everyone has something different for it.
You need to make yourself known to the Maple Syrup industry. Batteries do not work in the cold - brace and bit always works! Too bad the lead screw keeps breaking at the tip!! How to sharpen that lead screw is a challenge!
LOL that is where I first used one. so many good memories tapping trees!
@@WoodByWright Well, if you have any ideas for sharpening the lead screw - I'm all ears! Irwin is the last manufacturer of the brace/bit taper square augers, and I just broke the top off of one today! I've tried using a hacksaw to get the thread back - less than a mm has snapped off, but it sure makes a difference when it's gone!
Ya historically once they snap off they are trash. they need to be that long. I have use tri blade electrical augers before but your brace needs to be able to hold a hex head bit. most can, but not all.
@@WoodByWright I find that a hex shank starts grinding out the brace innards over time. The tapered square is much better. Why they have all but discontinued it is beyond me. They assume everyone works near electricity. No one remembers farm and forest realities.
Thanks for that - that explains why I had so much trouble with a modern auger bit - 1 attempt and straight back to a Forster bit in the drill press, I'm afraid!
+Steve SteveS lol that will do it.
my grandfather was a carpenter and before he passed he gave me all his tools along with a front half flip up tool box which he made himself. I love them so many old school pieces. one of them might interest you. from what I know during his stint in the merchant marines during WWII a commander found out he was a carpenter he was issued a full set of tools a was put to work making things. this he said was kinda weird being he spent most time on a ship. he said "sir shouldn't I be mopping the deck peeling potatoes or whatever instead of making u cabinets?" "Shut up seaman and just keep building! anyways my point is I have military issue auger bit set ranging from 6 to 20 minus 12 still in slots sewn onto a military fatigue color roll up canvas. they are so cool
+Troy Kinsey wow. That is a great story to go along with the tools!
Excellent video, thanks. Dad left me a beautiful collection of augers which I enjoy using, but didn't know how to sharpen them correctly. Thanks again!
I am 63 years old and inherited my grandfather's 2 braces and some mediocer bits in July this year. Braces are 8 inch throw and in good condition. Saw this video after Handtools 2017 at Amana, Iowa in May. Too bad for me; there was a 5x8 foot table of factory boxed auger bits (vintage). Appreciate your vidio beyond words.
+Gary Schultz nice. I love when those finds pop up.
Greetings from South Africa. Not boring(excuse the pun) at all. I just received a brace with a bag full of augers. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but now know exactly what to look out for and what to do. Thanks for sharing!🤗
What do you mean?!? That wasn’t boring at all! I learned A LOT about the sizing numbers, and the adjustable bits, and what damage on a vintage bit is repairable or trash. You really should offer this as a matter of fact presentation!👍
Excellent. Thanks. I had bought some Irwin, now I will need to look at those carefully, haven't had a chance to use them yet.
Nice. I love finding gems in a bucket of bits!
I lucked out and found a perfect unused vintage roll of even sized Irwin bits 2 years ago on eBay. They are an absolute pleasure to use. A crisp snail and sharp wings rival any modern bit in my opinion.
+Alex Pacin nice. I feel the same about a good bit.
These were what I learned with as a kid. It’s what we had. Flea markets are where I’ve found many. Retired PG&E guys always have them in their tool box. Thanks
Very good Info James. A few months ago, I bought a full set of the 'Modern' bits. And regret it. They are hard work as you say and for some reason the 'Snail' was not biting and clogging up. It is a fine screw and it was in soft pine. In frustration I gave up and resorted to a drill press and Fostner bit
yup. they are just not made for hand powered or are sold dull.
Enjoyed watching your Video. I have just received some from my parents, i will now check the conditions. Should you use white vinegar to clean them up or is there a better way?
Vinegar is the cheapest method. But for something like this, if you have a wire brush on a grinder you can clean them up really quickly. But if you want to do a bath generally the best bath would be to ues Evaporust.
@@WoodByWright thanks for your quick response
Just curious, have you ever seen an auger bit with a flat shank? I recently bought a lot of old rusted tools, and there was 2 braces in the lot, both unmarked, no brand, numbers or any thing to identify it. And where the bit goes into the brace, instead of the normal square hole that the augers fit into, they have a narrow slot about 3/16"x 1/2". I can't find any info on them.
Interesting. Feel free to email me some pictures I'd love to take a look at it. You can find my email address in the about me tab on the main page. There were a lot of shop made bits and adapters back in the day. It may be one of those.
@@WoodByWright will do. Ive spent a lot of time trying to find info on it. I'll take some pictures and see if I can figure out how to send them on here lol.
Not boring!
👍
Great video!
Hello, I have an auger bit that only penetrates a few millimeters, after which it no longer drills. Apparently it is in good condition. What could be the problem?
Usually that means it is not sharp enough.
Thanks . I will trie to sharp anoter time.
Another question. I have possibility of buy some auger bits, but the tip has no threads. Is like a piramid, but isn't threaded. Do you know that kind of drills?
I love the videos and all the information I've been getting! I was wondering if, at the title screen, you meant to but buger bits?
Thanks. Yeah we always have something fun in the title screen. Sometimes it's a weird misspelling sometimes it's a joke sometimes it's an inside statement.
I hope you didn't take that as a critique! I figured it was something on those lines based on your jokes. I will now have something to keep an eye out for.
Today I used the auger and the tip broke... when i was penetrating and turning through the wood, what I do now is turn a bit, then I take it out clean the hole...and do it the same over and over ..until I have the hole that I want.. because otherwise the tip breaks.
Nice video…. If the tip of the old Auger bit i broken or almost gone you Can still use Them with a powerdrill! You just have to Drill a small pilot Hole first. That can be a good ideer to reduce the drag of a good working tip too.
FAMAG (from Germany) still makes these new as well. I've heard they're pretty good, but I don't have any experience with them myself. I've been quite happy with their regular drills.
Do they still make them with a square brace shank? I would love to see that!
I just browsed through their catalog a bit and I'm afraid that they don't make any with square shanks. Mainly hex shank and something they call morse taper shank. The only other place I know of who sells square shanks is dieter schmid. No idea about the quality though. www.fine-tools.com/auger-bit-conical-square-shaft.html
ya those are made by Irwin too. but I have sence found two makers that still offer them I linked both in the discription of the video.
Hey. Could you use one of those expansion bits to cut large holes in mdf? To save flinging dust everywhere with a hole saw in a power drill?
They don't work as well. In a power drill. Plus, you'd have to find a power drill with an adapter to a tapered square shaft. Or cut that off of the shaft. But technically it would do it.
@@WoodByWright Thanks! I guess my question should have been ‘would an expansion bit work on mdf?’. I’d definitely use it in my carpenter’s brace rather than reach for the electric drill.
Great video, and really clear explanation of sharpening. 👍
Have you heard about Fisch auger bits?
Yes. those are great. a bit pricey but good!
Boring? You hadn't auger say that...
+TrollForge lol well I did!
Any thought about wood owl auger bits?
Those are my standard. Go to augers.th-cam.com/video/1IfgVb4UmQY/w-d-xo.html
Here's a video.
Thanks!
Great info, thanks!
Froma n engineering perspective wouldn't it be better to make these in three parts so you can replace the knickers and the lead screw if they're damaged?
the problem with that is those fastening methods would triple the price of the tool. and because they are made on such a small scale that would put them out of most peoples price range. there are a few places in the hand tool world where that works, but a lot more where it has been tried and rejected.
@@WoodByWright When they were made perhaps but in the age of industry 4.0 individual design is no longer as costly as it once was.
Boring as heck! Lol good pun!
LOL thanks Chad!
You're never boring James.
Thank you. This is most welcome. Fills in a lot of blanks.
James, what do you think of these? www.woodowl.com/PROD_ultrasmooth.htm
they are great but a lot of braces do not like hex shafts. I found two markers and added them to the video description.
Wood By Wright awesome thank you!
thank you i didnt know what the numbers represented and had no idea about the special file many thanks sir
I love you James! Loved it! Antique shops! The best!
Just found a small set of Irwin made in the USofA auger bits with the oak box borchest? Still had the original instruction manual on how to care for them
Nice. Now that is a find!
@@WoodByWright haha I don't know anyone else who would find that interesting so I'm glad you did. They dont even look used perfect condition, I feel kinda bad if I use them...
But I have a question, they have the course'r style threads but I mainly use hardwoods, will that be a greater chance for the tip to break?
They will generally work fine as long as you keep them sharp. if you start working in really dense south american woods you might find then stripping out, but no fear of hurting the snail.
Enjoyed the vid.i believe i have an auger file stashed in a bag of rusty relics.
Lmao I bought a full normal drill set thinking they were the same thing.
Fish making bits. But the are pricy. 27€ per peace.
Not boring...in fact it was just the info I was looking for!
thanks Mark!
James, great explanation of auger bits! For new manufacture bits, have you tried any of the Wood Owl Tri-Cut Smooth Bore auger bits? Richard Maguire highlighted these bits in one of his articles and thinks very highly of them. Yes, they are designed for power tools, but they work well in a brace too if the brace jaws will handle a hex shank. Made by Star-M in Japan, see woodowl.com/. Amazon carries them: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OAJR6/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_2_w
yup. some braces will work well with hex heads but the older ones have a hard time with it. I did, however, find these and I trust tools for working wood. www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-JB.XX/Jennings_Pattern_Auger_Bit_for_Braces
Помогите пожалуйста преобрести через вас такие свёрла каждого диаметра какие есть .если возможно то как с вами связаться ?
Mr. Wright, can a broken auger screw be filed down and fixed? Do you know any resources one could reference to try and tackle this issue? Also, why when sharpening the blades do you not attack the blade from the underside, so as to negate the effects of sharpening the nickers?
Looking forward to seeing pictures of it in the email.
Excellent video. Enough good information, but not too much. Just enough for someone like me who is just getting started.
I saw a full set, in excellent condition in an antique store a few months back. In excellent condition, and came with the wooden box they were sold in. I should have bought it, but the fact they were in the original box made them a bit more expensive than I could afford at the time. I regret my choice now that I've seen what's out there,
Yeah. Antique bits can be a pain to find a good set. But once you have bits that actually cut well it's amazing.
So let me get this straight. You consider yourself a "Hunt -n- Pecker that goes to antique shops to look a nickers. Oh, yeah, that is very boring. Your words not mine....
Seriously though. Very good information. Great video as always.
LOL thnaks Bill!
You said this was boring, but you didn't bore a single board. Although some of us are now more worried about the condition of our knickers......Great Video James!
LOL thanks man!
Hey James - I don't know if you noticed but your camera is slightly tilted in your wide shot. I kept looking at your shelf thinking "did he mount that crooked?!" but it matches with the wall all the way along! Probably the uneven floor and tripod not playing nicely, but my eye keeps getting drawn to the shelf!
Thanks for the informative video as always. I really must build one of those auger boxes! Did you do that yourself? I'd love to see a project video on that!
+Bazzatron lol us I did not see that tell editing. One leg on the tripod was off. That box came from the rockford Tool Companie in the 20s. But I am thinking of building a rack for them to go on the wall. Just make a hole one size larger.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice I have a old brace an full set (imperial) bits, that i restore, but for metric only can find the new type bit :(
Obrigado(Thanks)
+Blog das Madeiras yup. Metric is newer then the brace and bit. Not much luck there.
Blog das Madeiras I have found a couple of old style metric bits. Looks for German or Japanese manufacturers rather than the likes of irwin or Jennings . Sometimes the 'm' or 'mm' is obscured in grime or is on the opposite face. Not something I have found often but they are there.
I did not know they even exist :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Who knew that something so "boring" was also, delicate? I'm thinking that letting these roll off the bench can ruin the lead screw.
right on. I often stand up the larger ones in the dog holes or just have out the ones I need at any given time.
Buger buger buger buger buger
the best kind of bits there are LOL
2:30 Three years later, we have a handful of manufacturers that make great auger bits in Germany, Austria and Japan, either with fitting shafts for the brace, or for use with an adapter. Here’s a link to a distributor in Germany - not sure if they ship worldwide, but at the very least it’s a good list of manufacturers: www.fine-tools.com/schlangenbohrer.html
ya it is fun to see what is being made. I am thinking of testing a few of them in the future and seeing how they stand up!
Is that a pallet wood wall behind you?
And I didn't know about the numbering system actually was in 1/16th inch increments.
Yes. The pallet wood was the base before I put down the French cleat system on top of it.
I'd be interested in seeing whether a replacement screw point can be welded onto an auger bit, perhaps by lopping off the old one, drilling a precise hole where it was, and tacking in a replacement that has a post to fit into the drilled hole. Similarly, I bet a glob of molten metal where the nickers used to be could he sharpened up, perhaps shaped very rapidly with a CNC
you could, but that is a lot of work for a $0.50 bit. it would be interesting to try though.
Good tips. Thanks.
A method I use to check for straight shanks is to lay the bit on a reasonably flat surface and roll the flutes between my hand and the flat surface. Any bend will result in a wobble on the shank end. I am tempted to throw in dad joke related to brace/boring/bit/bent/shank, but as a grandfather I know better. Usually. Sometimes. Every once in a while?
another great tip!
I’ve seen the “lead screw” called the “snail” and the “nickers” (“knickers”?) called the “wings.” As you say, there are lots of names for these things. But I think I’ll switch to saying “knickers,” because that sounds naughty, especially in Britain.
I agree that old auger bits seem to be better than new ones. The old ones invariably need to be sharpened, but most of them are well-made. I’m sure some trashy ones were made back in the day, but not many of the bad ones are still around. They broke, or someone flung them away in disgust long ago.
Thanks. Ya there are lots of names for both of those as you travel around the world.
very true. there is only one company I know of now that sells quality bits. and those are crazy expensive!
I found a complete set of vintage Irwin bits on Ebay for $40. They were advertised as "rusty" but I took a chance on them. They only had some surface rust and cleaned up nicely. A few did have a rounded over nicker where someone had sharpened the outside. Oh well, most are serviceable.
+jrherman3rd sweet! Those are nice finds!
Hi James! hoping you can help me with a quick question. I just got my first set of vintage auger bits. All look like they were never used except for the 1/2 inch bit. It definitely has some wear but I think I can clean it up. My concern is that the spurs are very, very dull. And there are huge burrs on the outsides of the spurs. I know you said not to touch the outsides but I'm worried that the burrs are really more of folded over metal that won't break off. To give you an idea on the thickness of the burrs, they almost feel like solder drips. Any tips? Can I risk trying to gently polish them down with a diamond paddle? Or is this bit just a lost cause? Would love to know how you would address this. Thanks for your videos! I've been watching since you started the channel. Amazing to see how it's grown. You're really connecting with people. Keep it up!
Yes. Mesure the spur point to point it should match the mesurment. If it is bigger then gently file it back into shape
What a boring topic
LOL yup!
I found a timber frame auger assembly (‘T’ Tower? -an older..than me..tool guy called it..) and need a much better set of bits from 1/2”-3” sizes that are extremely fine quality and will last through a ten year timber frame barn restoration project from the bones up on a 112 year old 35,000 sq’ dairy barn currently in dangerously poor repair. We are working on the house of same age first and have welded up an enormous metal skeleton supporting it until we can move to that project (then the other six out buildings, logging mill cover, garage and machine shop...oi!)
Nice! Sounds like a fun project!. I think you are referring to a beam drill. the kind of thing you sit on one side and turn a crank on eather side. those are a ton of fun.
Eskilstuna Steel from sweeden.. you dont get Better tools.. unless you go japaneese and but tools there..
truth, but now you are going to make the northern Michicagn blast furnaces mad. LOL
Young man, thank you for posting this concise, informative and most excellent video. I have been working with wood for well over sixty years, some of the most prized possessions in my workshop are the augur bits that were left to me by my father, so, so, useful in a bit and brace (also prized) . Keep them sharp (gently please) and clean and they will last a number of lifetimes, I intend to pass them on not only to my children but also my grandchildren. It is so hard to find these quality bits/tools any more, they are a pleasure to use. Thank you once again for taking the time to post, I wish you and your loved ones all the best in woodworking and in life.
Thanks. Sounds like a great heirloom to hand down.
I remember watching a video in which you were using a spade bit with a brace, I can't find it, do you remember this video?
I don't remember a spade bit. I may have used one of them when making the first bench. Before I got a hole saw kit. Now the hole saw is my go to for bigger holes.
Not boring, very very useful. Great content as usual. Thanks again James!!!
Thanks man!
If a knicker is flared out, would it be okay to file the outside of it to correct the hole size?
normally the nicker is flared out a bit. you want it to be slightly wider then the screw otherwise the screw can jam with too much friction. the distance from nicker to nicker determines the hole size. I have lightly tapped them in or out to change the detention of the hole but usually by just a couple thousands.
Really interesting.Thanks
My pleasure!
I started looking for one a few days ago. Early this morning I received a notification from Craigslist. I have a tool search set up with a price and distance limit.
This man sold me his brace, 17 bits and a bunch of other stuff for $35. I gave him 40 and said thanks. He even threw in a tote. Yours is the first video I watched on Sharpening them. I have a set of single edge files coarse and fine. Ok. I got a great deal. I'm extatic. They aren't rusted, but have a rust colored patina in the inner swirl area. Q: Is it ok if I put them in "DR. X" rust remover? I used it on horse bits and a 120 year old shotgun. Then I plan to use a buffing wheel, fine say a 4 or 5. 6 is my softest. Would rather not use a wire wheel. Please let me know what you think.
Sounds like fun. Sure that should not hurt them at all. But if it's just surface rust usually I will coat them in oil and that will come off nicely after they get used a few times. As long as they're used regularly they generally stay fairly good.
@@WoodByWright They're over 100 years old. Third generation inheritance. A few are stamped with Roman numerals instead of numbers. I'm going to lightly file the Holder end, they're all dinged up. Then I'm going to use a Dremel engraving to make the stamp marks more legible. First time I heard from you about the 1/16 inch sizing so I broke out my iGaging caliper and my Son and I started checking the sizes of them last night.
There is one that just one of the gouge wings is half the size of the other one. Can it be used or should I find a replacement for it? It's the 5/8 so I Know that I need that size.
Is there one brand or manufacture that is better than the others. I'm sure there is the personal preference thing.
from the older ones, it is all personal preference. I collect Rockford tool company, but that is because I live in Rockford.
Great video! Interesting and informative - Do you happen to have a video showing how to make the holder for the auger bits?
thanks. sorry but that is a case that the manufacturer of the bide would throw in if you bought a full set.
you've got be kidding me with choosing the word "nicker" and saying it over and over again. you could totally just call them spurs
It all depends on where you're from. They also have a lot of other names
BORING! Just kidding. Great information in this video.
there was a boring part but I tried to go through it quickly!