James, I think a key point about things like augers, drill bits, chisels, plane blades, etc is that they are ultimately a "consumable supply" and will eventually simply wear out through sharpening. You seemed a bit hesitant to say "throw it away". The metal can be recycled, of course - but the tool in its current form is dead. It's bin fodder, the question is which bin to chuck it into. I have bought a lot of antique bits, blades, augers, etc that were very close to end of life. Trying to salvage a consumable tool at end of life can be very frustrating and in my experience is often ends up pointless. It can be a hard decision to make, especially financially. I went with new augers.. More costly in the short run but as a 55 year old weekend warrior - my kid will inherit a fine set of augers some day. No chance of me sharpening them out. That longevity of tool will save me a ton of money in the long run, especially as the cost of the antiques continues to climb.
Very helpful. Thanks for the great info. If you have any auger bits that die and become useless, send them my way. I have a cool idea of how to repurpose them.
That could make for a big canister, if you use more than one, Mr. Blades. Edit: depending on the size of the auger bit/s that is. If that was your idea.
I feel this is a response to my egg beater drill resto video from last week. I had some real problems using my brace to drill into the rosewood endgrain when making the cap for the handle.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo oh, also, if you file/sharpen the blade down past the end of the snail it can cause feed issues. The edge of the blade should meet the end of the snail thread, ideally.
I mangled the lead screw to one a nice vintage auger bit that kept getting clogged up and not moving by always picking out the compacted wood bits with the little awl that comes with a combo square. It’s still screw-shaped, so maybe if I really do a good job sharpening the cutters it will still work. Thought I was doing it well and I just had a defective auger. You know what they say about craftsmen who blame their tools though. Thank you James!
I bought a DwWalt 8.0 2,500 max rpm drill and a max speed auger (1 inch irwin fastest speedbor ever) and it keeps jamming in the tree stump I'm trying to drill holes in (want to drill approx. 10 in.) to use stump remover on. It goes down a couple of inches then, wham, it's jammed and I have to keep using a pair of pliers to hand remove the auger. I've tried different speeds, but once it hits a hard spot it just james. Tried different locations and it's the same each time.
I would use a Brace rather then a drill. it will get more torch. but most of the time when it jams it is just not sharp enough. those augers do not come sharp enough for wet end grain. they are designed for dry studs. so you might get by sharpening it.
yup. they sell the wood Owls like I was showing here. they also sell the single flute bits, but those are a pain for a brace and really are designed for faster drills.
I would think a welder could add material back onto the spurs and then they could be ground back to the correct shape, if you REALLY badly wanted to keep that old bit.
Correct. I mentioned that and in most cases it works okay however it is often very difficult to get a good weld and you usually just end up making more of a mess. But it can work.
I have a whole video about that down below if you want to see that. But usually I am by them in a box lot for 10 to $15. With 20 to 30 of them in there. Find them at garage sales and flea markets usually one of the best places is at an estate sale.
an auger bit will cut the circle of the wood before the blase remove the wood in the circle. this will give you a clean hole without tear-out. on top of that, the screw will pull the bit through the work so you do not have to push.
Fantastic, James! Thanks a lot! 😃 Before anyone else asks, let me ask. Can't you weld a tip of a screw once you lost the snail? 😬 I don't know, seems like a good option... If you can weld well. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Ideally, the beginning edge of the cutting edge and the trailing edge of the snail should meet for the very best performance. (The thread should flow right out to the cutter).
Hey James, aren’t the wood owl bits designed for high speed electric drills? I haven’t tried them as I use only a bit brace, so I’d be interested to know how they work on a bit brace.
some of there bits are, but these ones are designed for slower high torque such as a brace. I have a video showing them and why I switched to these ones.
What's the smallest diameter size available for Auger bits? And what sizes are available in imperial. Last Saturday I got hand of some in the local Swiss second hand tools store. But diameters were quite odd in metric, so I assume they must be imperial. But I'm not experienced with the fractioning and knowing the equivalent value in metric.
Usually the smallest auger bit is one quarter inch or 6.35 mm. most all agreements come in imperial. Even the ones sold in millimeters are usually imperial measurements rounded to the nearest millimeter
I'll probably try to strighten them out a bit but they also need to be sharpened (file coming in the mail) so I'm not yet sure the cause of the problems
yup. the shaft is fairly soft so you can stick them in a dog hole and tweak them a bit if they bounce around. but they can be a decent amount bent before it causes a problem for most holes.
I suppose it depends on the depth you are drilling and if you are drilling deeper than the bend. If you are drilling for timber framing, then you may have an issue with bent bits jamming up, but for typical furniture dimention lumber, probably not an issue.
I've straightened some over the years by drilling into tree stumps. Then tweaking the bit back straight. The hole helps to realign the bit, but I've had one or two bits break during the tweaking. So use that tip at your own risk.
ya those can have a lot of other issues. some times it progressively gets wider. some times the center cutter is a steeper angle then the main blade. you have to be very picky with the snail you use there and chose the right one for the right wood or it will not work at all.
But, but... Where's the exit zinger? I suppose you could claim that "i read awl messages" and that would be credit. But lazy Nevertheless, love the info so thanks!
I posted a question that asked how I would go about hollowing out a log about 2ft long and 8inch wide. Someone suggested an Auger Bit. Not a bad idea just one problem. The hole that I need to make at one end of the log needs to be only about an inch and a half to 2 inches wide. The Stove Top hat that is carved on the log will be hollow and that is where I will start drilling my hole. I want to shape the wood into a snowman. The belly of the snowman will be waterproof and much wider in circumference than the little Stove Top hat. I do not want to drill the hole all the way through the log. Need it to give me a good 2inches on the bottom before it breaks through. Because of this odd shape I can’t figure out a way around cutting the log in half the long way from end to end so I can carve out the large circumference in the belly of the snowman. After I am finished I would glue it back together. Stain it. Add arms and a bowl in one hand. Do you think that an Auger Bit is a fitting tool for this kind of project or do you know of another tool that may do the job better.
If it were me I would probably use an auger bit to drill out the majority of the ways and then use a gouge to widen the top of the hole. That way you could carve it into a cone shape cavity. At least I'm a guessing that's what you're saying. If you want to send me some pictures feel free to send me an email I'd be glad to talk it through with you.
The snail seems like a flaw to me. Forstner bits bits make a perfectly good cut without them. I use auger bits like a long forstner bit that won’t drift after an inch of depth.
A forester bit is designed to work with a power tool and requires force to pull them through the work. the snail pulls the bit forward so you do not have to force the brace at all just steady it and crank. but you would not want to use one in a drill.
Probably don't get a lot of oil per x ammount of plastic you throw in. Probably need a lot of energy to break down the plastic. Probably the minerals that he shows at the end are impure and incredibly hard to make pure.=not worth
James, I think a key point about things like augers, drill bits, chisels, plane blades, etc is that they are ultimately a "consumable supply" and will eventually simply wear out through sharpening. You seemed a bit hesitant to say "throw it away". The metal can be recycled, of course - but the tool in its current form is dead. It's bin fodder, the question is which bin to chuck it into.
I have bought a lot of antique bits, blades, augers, etc that were very close to end of life. Trying to salvage a consumable tool at end of life can be very frustrating and in my experience is often ends up pointless.
It can be a hard decision to make, especially financially. I went with new augers.. More costly in the short run but as a 55 year old weekend warrior - my kid will inherit a fine set of augers some day. No chance of me sharpening them out. That longevity of tool will save me a ton of money in the long run, especially as the cost of the antiques continues to climb.
right on. emotions get in the way often for those of us connected to 100+ year old tools.
Very timely for me, as my Stanley 938 and Irwin bits came today the bits are post 1952, but look pretty old and were still being made in the US
Very helpful. Thanks for the great info. If you have any auger bits that die and become useless, send them my way. I have a cool idea of how to repurpose them.
That could make for a big canister, if you use more than one, Mr. Blades.
Edit: depending on the size of the auger bit/s that is. If that was your idea.
If you do, make videos, please. I'll go subscribe, just in case.
I feel this is a response to my egg beater drill resto video from last week. I had some real problems using my brace to drill into the rosewood endgrain when making the cap for the handle.
LOL End Grain Rose wood is never a good Idea!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo oh, also, if you file/sharpen the blade down past the end of the snail it can cause feed issues. The edge of the blade should meet the end of the snail thread, ideally.
I mangled the lead screw to one a nice vintage auger bit that kept getting clogged up and not moving by always picking out the compacted wood bits with the little awl that comes with a combo square. It’s still screw-shaped, so maybe if I really do a good job sharpening the cutters it will still work. Thought I was doing it well and I just had a defective auger. You know what they say about craftsmen who blame their tools though. Thank you James!
Thanks James, I've never seen the topic addressed in such detail. You told me a lot I didn't know.
Useful video. I have a lot of old auger bits from England. The same problems. Thank you.
Ahh, another boring video. But at least this one wasn't completely pointless.
Thanks, James.
LOL right on!
Hi James, Do you have suggestions for sharpening the Wood Owl auger bits? Keep up the good work!
I might have to do a video on that.
I bought a DwWalt 8.0 2,500 max rpm drill and a max speed auger (1 inch irwin fastest speedbor ever) and it keeps jamming in the tree stump I'm trying to drill holes in (want to drill approx. 10 in.) to use stump remover on. It goes down a couple of inches then, wham, it's jammed and I have to keep using a pair of pliers to hand remove the auger. I've tried different speeds, but once it hits a hard spot it just james. Tried different locations and it's the same each time.
I would use a Brace rather then a drill. it will get more torch. but most of the time when it jams it is just not sharp enough. those augers do not come sharp enough for wet end grain. they are designed for dry studs. so you might get by sharpening it.
I agree Wood Owl bits are the best.
Very useful information, as always, James. Very much appreciated!
Thank you Sir 🎉
Nice one, James. Thanks for sharing the info!
thanks. and congrats on being first!
Awesome knowledge.i learn a lot from you and your videos thanks.
Show us detailed setup of your shop shelves etc.backround of your shop looks well organised
Here is the playlist with all those videos. I have a video for each rack on the wall.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
"Here is"... where is the link?
[T]here is, oops, typo... ha ha ha.
nothing better then copy and paste with out the pasting part. th-cam.com/video/eLVYiQgTLVE/w-d-xo.html
there it is!
Great teaching, thank you.
Great information James. Thanks for sharing.
Lee valley still sells new sets of auger bits.
yup. they sell the wood Owls like I was showing here. they also sell the single flute bits, but those are a pain for a brace and really are designed for faster drills.
Just once, do a Max Headroom intro.
Thank You James!!!! Good To Know!!!! 👍😎😃
I would think a welder could add material back onto the spurs and then they could be ground back to the correct shape, if you REALLY badly wanted to keep that old bit.
Correct. I mentioned that and in most cases it works okay however it is often very difficult to get a good weld and you usually just end up making more of a mess. But it can work.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Sorry, I'm watching while working, and I missed that, oops.
Since all of my auger bits are used, I use thread files to clean/repair threads on the snail.
Always splendide info ! Can’t keep up with you !
I would love to know where you are finding auger bits for $0.50! The best I've been able to find locally is $4 - $5.
I have a whole video about that down below if you want to see that. But usually I am by them in a box lot for 10 to $15. With 20 to 30 of them in there. Find them at garage sales and flea markets usually one of the best places is at an estate sale.
I'd like to know what the main purpose auger bits is as apposed to your typical wood drill bit.
an auger bit will cut the circle of the wood before the blase remove the wood in the circle. this will give you a clean hole without tear-out. on top of that, the screw will pull the bit through the work so you do not have to push.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks
Fantastic, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Before anyone else asks, let me ask. Can't you weld a tip of a screw once you lost the snail? 😬
I don't know, seems like a good option... If you can weld well.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You can, but it would be a weak tip and it would be a LOT of work.
Ideally, the beginning edge of the cutting edge and the trailing edge of the snail should meet for the very best performance. (The thread should flow right out to the cutter).
Hey James, aren’t the wood owl bits designed for high speed electric drills? I haven’t tried them as I use only a bit brace, so I’d be interested to know how they work on a bit brace.
some of there bits are, but these ones are designed for slower high torque such as a brace. I have a video showing them and why I switched to these ones.
arg, can’t find it. did a search for wood by wright auger bit, lots of hits but nada about Wood Owl bits.
Sorry. I thought I put the link on there. th-cam.com/video/bjAomHJ_8mE/w-d-xo.html
For what it's worth, I originally got some wood owl bits to fit into a chuck I got for a beam auger. They work really nicely.
What's the smallest diameter size available for Auger bits?
And what sizes are available in imperial.
Last Saturday I got hand of some in the local Swiss second hand tools store. But diameters were quite odd in metric, so I assume they must be imperial. But I'm not experienced with the fractioning and knowing the equivalent value in metric.
Usually the smallest auger bit is one quarter inch or 6.35 mm. most all agreements come in imperial. Even the ones sold in millimeters are usually imperial measurements rounded to the nearest millimeter
Hi i need help! My auger bit stops drilling after 1 inch what should i do?
Sounds like it is dull. I have several videos on sharpening them. And feel free to send me an email I would be glad to help.
What about bits that are slightly bent?
I got a full set for a few dollars but I think some are bent and making it difficult to turn
I'll probably try to strighten them out a bit but they also need to be sharpened (file coming in the mail) so I'm not yet sure the cause of the problems
yup. the shaft is fairly soft so you can stick them in a dog hole and tweak them a bit if they bounce around. but they can be a decent amount bent before it causes a problem for most holes.
I suppose it depends on the depth you are drilling and if you are drilling deeper than the bend.
If you are drilling for timber framing, then you may have an issue with bent bits jamming up, but for typical furniture dimention lumber, probably not an issue.
I've straightened some over the years by drilling into tree stumps. Then tweaking the bit back straight. The hole helps to realign the bit, but I've had one or two bits break during the tweaking. So use that tip at your own risk.
I have a adjustable bit and it just will not cut.... its sharp and the threads are good.. but its.. I won't use it its so bad
ya those can have a lot of other issues. some times it progressively gets wider. some times the center cutter is a steeper angle then the main blade. you have to be very picky with the snail you use there and chose the right one for the right wood or it will not work at all.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Great feedback.
But, but... Where's the exit zinger? I suppose you could claim that "i read awl messages" and that would be credit. But lazy
Nevertheless, love the info so thanks!
I posted a question that asked how I would go about hollowing out a log about 2ft long and 8inch wide.
Someone suggested an Auger Bit.
Not a bad idea just one problem.
The hole that I need to make at one end of the log needs to be only about an inch and a half to 2 inches wide.
The Stove Top hat that is carved on the log will be hollow and that is where I will start drilling my hole.
I want to shape the wood into a snowman.
The belly of the snowman will be waterproof and much wider in circumference than the little
Stove Top hat.
I do not want to drill the hole all the way through the log.
Need it to give me a good 2inches on the bottom before it breaks through.
Because of this odd shape I can’t figure out a way around cutting the log in half the long way from end to end so I can carve out the large circumference in the belly of the snowman. After I am finished I would glue it back together.
Stain it.
Add arms and a bowl in one hand.
Do you think that an Auger Bit is a fitting tool for this kind of project
or
do you know of another tool that may do the job better.
If it were me I would probably use an auger bit to drill out the majority of the ways and then use a gouge to widen the top of the hole. That way you could carve it into a cone shape cavity. At least I'm a guessing that's what you're saying. If you want to send me some pictures feel free to send me an email I'd be glad to talk it through with you.
The snail seems like a flaw to me. Forstner bits bits make a perfectly good cut without them. I use auger bits like a long forstner bit that won’t drift after an inch of depth.
A forester bit is designed to work with a power tool and requires force to pull them through the work. the snail pulls the bit forward so you do not have to force the brace at all just steady it and crank. but you would not want to use one in a drill.
As soon as I saw the title I knew it wood be boring. 😁
Cheap auger files available at Lie Neelson
Dull cutters clog the snail??
Huh....I guess I need to watch your shsrpening video again
yup. counterintuitive, but that is most often the problem.
Makes sense, really. If it can't cut, then the snail strips out and breaks off the fibers in the snail hole.
Probably don't get a lot of oil per x ammount of plastic you throw in. Probably need a lot of energy to break down the plastic. Probably the minerals that he shows at the end are impure and incredibly hard to make pure.=not worth
is this the video you were intending to comment on?
I really appreciate you responding to comments on old videos, even when they make no sense haha
The biggest auger problem is finding unmlosted, usable bits.