I got inspired by John's first version and I am finishing mine, similar idea. If you have something in mind on how to create a tension system it would be appreciated. I can't find a solution that would increase the tension on the other sides.
@@hmeslava I've been brainstorming my own and I believe I will try some threaded eye bolts with a counter sunk nut under near the frame to create tension
Love the evolution and improvements you have made, it it nice to see people doing things that they obviously get excited by. I will post suggestions in another comment.
I'd love to see a version of this where the top & bottom of the table have intertwining corkscrew patterns, to give the effect of a tornado between the base & top. Great build, these are awesome!
Hey John, it's not just a side table, its a FU@KIN work of art. I thought the thicker cable was a master stroke and didn't affect the illusion. Love your work Big Fella. 👍👍👍👍
Theater people use that cable and copper sleeves all the time to rig stuff overhead- it's crazy strong when you've got it done right! They also make aluminum thimbles to help keep your loop a loop and not kink the cable.
Post everything. We love the content. You have inspired me to become more adventurous in the wood working projects I undertake. And it has been paying off! Literally, people pay me to build stuff now. You rock man, keep it up!
I love the concept of your floating furniture. One thing I would get rid of that 3/16” wire cable, which I assume is stainless steel, and replace it with a smaller diameter to make it less visible. For example, 3/32” 1x19 stainless steel wire has a breaking strength of 1,200 pounds which is plenty strong for what you are building. The 3/16” 1x19 stainless steel wire that I usually deal with has a breaking strength of 4700 pounds which is much higher than the 800 pounds you mentioned in your video presentation. Another idea would be to replace the wire with a highly polished stainless steel or brass rod which could be treaded into the two sections of the table. There are also available terminal fitting that can be easily attached to the wire that would be practically invisible.
Springs for the tension cables hidden under the base and maybe skeletonize the top mounting plate to lose some weight up top. A piece of nylon strap for the center cable would be a cool look too.
Next version. Pulleys. Miniature Pulleys and a tensioner. This way you can use one single strand of wire to balance the load on all four corners. There are some pretty nice stainless steel and brass ones you can use that would look amazing.
Excellent vid! Instead of trying to hide the wires by using clear / thin wires, I wonder how a colored 500lb+ fishing line would look. Thanks again for sharing these projects and tips with us. Your 10 Epoxy Mistakes vid would of greatly assisted me when I made my coffee table 2 months ago using dremeled plexiglass in the epoxy to refract the led lights.
1. To stop racking, put diagonal wires under tension on each side. I'm not sure if you'll need the vertical wires at all if you make an X on each side. 2. To tighten it up, turn it upside down, add some load, and then tighten the stablizing wires. You might need slightly stronger wires there. 3. Awesome build. It looks great, is strong, and has much more stability than the last one. Nicely done.
I like your videos. I go back and forth between metal and wood. I am in to wood now. Been milling walnut from a tree that fell in my back yard. It is so cool destroying chainsaws. I have burned out 2, on my 3rd one.
I think you need to put springs under the base. For the four corner tension wires. Putting them under load. That way when you apply wait to the table. The springs can pull back and keep the wires under tension. Pulleys of some kind. Will be needed at the four corners of the base.
For the middle cable, make your own braided wire out of a couple of pieces of the small gauge wire by putting it in a cordless drill at one end and a vice at the other. make it stronger and slightly less obvious
Beautiful job on the table! For the Bondo, you have about 5 min of working time once you mix it, to put it on and then it will harden and be ready for sanding/painting in 30 min.
@@williamwinder3466 if you can get a strong enough attraction.... But that level of magnetic attraction at a distance to make it look good.... Probably would be a bad idea for anyone who had any metal inside of 5 feet or more.
How about building the the base hollow so you can put adjustable tensioners on outside balance wires. Kitchen table, end crimp cable and hide fereles in frame. Recommend Sasafass, if you can find it, beautiful wood!
You could add a "floating" intermediate disk which is attached with multiple of the thinner cables around its circumference. The cables would form a cone shape with the tip being where the cables currently attach, and the base is the disk suspended mid-way between.
The same principal should work for a larger table if you spread it across two tensegrity systems. Basically build 1 large dining table with two tensegrity 'posts' to support the weight. Great video!
add 4 tension cables on the outside that are not totally vertical. on the bottom part, you can put 4 new spots where to tie wires, halfway between the corners and the center, and bind them to the original top spots. that way, you will have a MUCH more stable table. Stable table. Stable table... sounds awesome!
Rather than going straight to dining table, I vote for a hexagonal coffee table. I figure after 6 anchors on the outside, you hit diminishing returns. Further, trying it with a coffee table first is simpler due to the height required. I would also change the strut to be a triangular pyramid, the top rotated 60 degrees off the bottom so the apex of each pyramid is within the other. This will further stabilize the forces by spreading them across the table, rather than just on one side.
you could add diagonal support cables, like go from bottom corners A, B and C to Corner B (and do that for all four corners). 3 times the cable strength with the same cable. Evan and Katelyn's tensegrity table held like 25 pounds without flexing that way and they used clear plastic cord
Maybe find a way to keep constant tension on the out side cables like with springs or or something or maybe one long cable that is both the middle and the out side ones
If you make another version, to help with the stabilization, you could add some heavy springs to the corner cables on the underside of the base so they'll keep tension while you add weight to it.
Awesome project! So, to save time: Chipmunk, profile gauge, it will crack next winter and split next summer because of the frame, and the fact that maple is stronger than walnut. OK. Now that I've got THAT out of the way... Synthetic cable, pretensioned, for the outside, and perhaps a convex or concave shape to the top, to heighten the effect. Keep up the great work!
Just shooting ideas: have a pump pump up water to the top. Have it waterfall at the corners to hide the cables. I think it would look sick if you painted it like mossy mountainous rock, floating in mid air with streams coming off of it
To make it stronger, and maybe it can make it cool as well you could use a chain in the center, it won’t look like its floating but this one didn’t either and it still looks awesome
I think for the next one you need to step up to active control. If you can adjust the tension of the guy wires in real time I think you can increase the stability.
Try using three main tension cables at an angle. That way the tension not only holds the table up, but also pulls it in three different ways, keeping it stably centered. Should all but eliminate the wobble. Take a bike wheel for example, as they also get their strength from all the spokes being in tension in different directions. You could also use 6 and cross them over each other for even more stability, kinda like a funky looking wheel with 12 spokes
Place internal tension springs that hold onto the external/corner wires. When you place weight onto the top causing the center cord/wire to "stretch", the external wires will stay taut keeping the top balanced.
The editing on his videos are honestly so incredible. If I weren't interested in the content, tbh I'd still watch them just for how beautiful they are.
Ok soo. This is the second video I've seen from you and I had to subscribe. I wanted to click that button 30 seconds into the first vid (wooden levi-table) but I'm working on my impulse scribing... First off... THE QUALITY. Of everything.. your videos the material... your attention to details..... Craftsmanship.. id literally put a TV in the corner that repeats all your vids on your channel... keep this up.
OK, all I wanna say is keep it up, cause it's about that time when Star Trek comes out with a new version, and I can see these being used all over the ship
How about a hexagonal base & top with struts coming off of every alternate corner so that you get two interlaced pyramids? That might conceal the tension wire.
Diagonal exterior wires/cables. Will create horizontal loads to prevent twisting. Vertical loads will still exist to create the effect. Should allow smaller external cables to achieve goal.
For the thinner tension wires, why not connect them under the top with spring tensioners, so that as weight is added they are automatically kept at roughly the same tension?
I'd put an obvious chunky chain in the middle and the "invisible" wire cables on the outer points. Or a mix of chain and cable. Optical illusion of balancing on the chain.
Instead of having just 4 wires that go straight up put 8 wires that cross and go to both other corners. Create Xs on the faces and that swill keep it from rocking and make a table that is actually sturdy and useable as a table that doesn't fall apart of you put something in the wrong spot. The main issues right now when it spins or rocks.
If the internet is right I think te best kinde off wire you can use is kevlar it can hold 520.000lbs/ square inch or in metric 365,57 kg/ mm^2. Because it can hold a lot of weight per small surfes you van make the wire almost invisible.
Larger table. Like a coffee table or dining table. Could use 2 center pieces facing in opposite directions. Also would look really cool with a clear resin river so you can see down into the floating madness you've made.
ahhhh, such a tiny little guy, but so much creativity and ingenuity. Should come here out west to oregon, where the men are men and the sheep are scared, all us farm boys look like professional linebackers, but, just goto work like schmucks... would kill to be able to make a living at creative work as you do. You're a lucky man john, god bless you and yours, keep the vids coming, love them... tiny feller ;-)
You should make it in a way that it somehow creates tension on the outside strings as you put pressure on top of it. I was thinking maybe making the outside strings go in a zigzag pattern so that it in a way pulls them when you put something on top.
the orange metal reminded me of a Jory Brigham piece.. looks cool.... version 2 however, what about magnets for the center pushing apart from each other with the cables on the outside holding it together so it will literally be floating with just the cables holding it down
Cross the lighter cables for added stability. Top left to lower right and so on... then try going front to back... all cables meet in middle... have the light cables hold a ring or bend back at a ring... now run the main cable through the ring in the middle... dining table size...
should do one more crimp on each of the big ferrules. PS, when it says the WLL (working load limit) is 800 pounds, they factor in a 5:1 safety factor. that center cable will hold 4000 lbs before it shears
Do a hexagonal shape maybe? Also, you might want to balance the weight of the top with counterweights opposite the arm that comes down. It looks like that's the reason it was moving towards that side when weight was applied.
You could achieve 100% stability and remove the wobble by running 2 runs of cable at ~45 degree angles in opposing directions from one corner on the bottom to adjacent corners on the top. Tables need to be reliable. Love the builds man, keep it up, Roll Tide!
McMaster is awesome because not only can you get almost anything there, they also provide solid models for whatever system you're using for almost everything they sell. I have a gigantic library of hardware that I use for work and hobbies.
I'm kicking around an Adirondack chair idea inspired by your first version video. One thing I'm going to incorporate is crossing the cables diagonally instead of having them go just vertical. It won't look as clean but should cut down on the racking under load. Keep up the good work man!
May I suggest same cables but on the bottom, connect them in a way to tighten/toque the 4 outside wires to at least half their breaking limit. That will definitely increase stability with weight... you could possibly get 500lbs if the outside lines are evenly tight and keep the weight in center... good luck
Not only would heavier cables on the outside help stability and “payload”? But it would look beefier. The table will still mind-fudge your brain. Can’t wait to see it.
it would be interesting to transfer some of the tension from the central cable to being tension on the outer cables, for example if the center cable routed down the base so that the weight transfered to pull force on the outer cables, it would solve the issue with outer cables losing tension when too much weight is applied, and the outer cables would only need to be roughly 1/4th the tensile strength of the center cable.
I'd love to see you make it look like it is chain links, but tensegrity... So having the middle anchors be squares around each other, locked together, but then still floating.
I think diagonal wires from top left to bottom right corners would fix the rotational stability a lot. It wouldn't look as impressive though. I have been building small 6^3" versions of this on my 3d printer. I am going to give my idea a shot.
From the examples I've seen elsewhere, I'm thinking that the stability may be improved by having the vertical parts that hold the main cable facing each other, instead of at a right angle to each other.
Full on dining table is the next step
Chairs, too!
Tyler Hageman full dining room set. With floating chairs would be awesome
Finished this video and thought the same thing dining set with small center piece decor.
I thought the same. Table next.
Yes absolutely with matching stools or chairs lmao
The next version should be a beefy industrial dinner table using that nice cable. Metal frame on top and bottom. Wood insert on top.
Use a spring load tension system for the stabilizing cables. It will reduce wobble and spread tension to all cables evenly.
Need that! noted for version 3 !
My thoughts exactly. Perhaps some stubby compression springs in the base so they stay hidden. Maybe even a stack of spring washers.
I got inspired by John's first version and I am finishing mine, similar idea. If you have something in mind on how to create a tension system it would be appreciated. I can't find a solution that would increase the tension on the other sides.
@@hmeslava just use a strong spring to attach the wire to the base.
@@hmeslava I've been brainstorming my own and I believe I will try some threaded eye bolts with a counter sunk nut under near the frame to create tension
It's nice to see that I'm not the only one that uses a saw as a router. Table or circular doesn't matter I use them both that way.
You are the Kimmy Gibbler of wood working.
So awesome!! The thicker cable and ferrules add an industrial look which strangely works on this piece
Love the evolution and improvements you have made, it it nice to see people doing things that they obviously get excited by. I will post suggestions in another comment.
Your craftsmanship is immense but your charisma is also so good
4:11 - add the "Golden Mean" or "Cycloids" to any of your work, and it will immediately radiate with sublime beauty, John.
Nice to see you fully utilising Cardboard Assisted Design there, or CAD for short.
LOL!
Hence the manual CAD. Glad im not the only one doing it😁. Its proven effective
I'd love to see a version of this where the top & bottom of the table have intertwining corkscrew patterns, to give the effect of a tornado between the base & top. Great build, these are awesome!
Awesome. Try setting the 4 corner cables at desired height then tighten center cable & everything should be balanced perfectly
Hey John, it's not just a side table, its a FU@KIN work of art. I thought the thicker cable was a master stroke and didn't affect the illusion. Love your work Big Fella. 👍👍👍👍
Theater people use that cable and copper sleeves all the time to rig stuff overhead- it's crazy strong when you've got it done right! They also make aluminum thimbles to help keep your loop a loop and not kink the cable.
Try adding a spring under tension to the 4 support wires. Under tension they will still pull the wires tight and give them room to lenghten.
Post everything. We love the content. You have inspired me to become more adventurous in the wood working projects I undertake. And it has been paying off! Literally, people pay me to build stuff now. You rock man, keep it up!
I love the concept of your floating furniture. One thing I would get rid of that 3/16” wire cable, which I assume is stainless steel, and replace it with a smaller diameter to make it less visible. For example, 3/32” 1x19 stainless steel wire has a breaking strength of 1,200 pounds which is plenty strong for what you are building. The 3/16” 1x19 stainless steel wire that I usually deal with has a breaking strength of 4700 pounds which is much higher than the 800 pounds you mentioned in your video presentation. Another idea would be to replace the wire with a highly polished stainless steel or brass rod which could be treaded into the two sections of the table. There are also available terminal fitting that can be easily attached to the wire that would be practically invisible.
Springs for the tension cables hidden under the base and maybe skeletonize the top mounting plate to lose some weight up top. A piece of nylon strap for the center cable would be a cool look too.
3.0 have the arm clear epoxy and the top and base solid wood. Completely floating Kinda look
Wicked work man ! This is so awesome
Next version. Pulleys. Miniature Pulleys and a tensioner. This way you can use one single strand of wire to balance the load on all four corners. There are some pretty nice stainless steel and brass ones you can use that would look amazing.
Excellent vid! Instead of trying to hide the wires by using clear / thin wires, I wonder how a colored 500lb+ fishing line would look.
Thanks again for sharing these projects and tips with us. Your 10 Epoxy Mistakes vid would of greatly assisted me when I made my coffee table 2 months ago using dremeled plexiglass in the epoxy to refract the led lights.
1. To stop racking, put diagonal wires under tension on each side. I'm not sure if you'll need the vertical wires at all if you make an X on each side.
2. To tighten it up, turn it upside down, add some load, and then tighten the stablizing wires. You might need slightly stronger wires there.
3. Awesome build. It looks great, is strong, and has much more stability than the last one. Nicely done.
I like your videos. I go back and forth between metal and wood. I am in to wood now. Been milling walnut from a tree that fell in my back yard. It is so cool destroying chainsaws. I have burned out 2, on my 3rd one.
I think you need to put springs under the base. For the four corner tension wires. Putting them under load. That way when you apply wait to the table. The springs can pull back and keep the wires under tension. Pulleys of some kind. Will be needed at the four corners of the base.
I really didn't think I'd care for the look of this, but that is a great-looking table! Amazing optical illusion.
For the middle cable, make your own braided wire out of a couple of pieces of the small gauge wire by putting it in a cordless drill at one end and a vice at the other. make it stronger and slightly less obvious
Beautiful job on the table!
For the Bondo, you have about 5 min of working time once you mix it, to put it on and then it will harden and be ready for sanding/painting in 30 min.
try it with extra strong magnets it will be literally floating
Angle the magnets to hold center
If anything throws off the balance the whole structure could experience rabid disassembly
@@williamwinder3466 if you can get a strong enough attraction.... But that level of magnetic attraction at a distance to make it look good.... Probably would be a bad idea for anyone who had any metal inside of 5 feet or more.
you need to get a giant type 2 superconductor.
How about building the the base hollow so you can put adjustable tensioners on outside balance wires. Kitchen table, end crimp cable and hide fereles in frame. Recommend Sasafass, if you can find it, beautiful wood!
You could add a "floating" intermediate disk which is attached with multiple of the thinner cables around its circumference. The cables would form a cone shape with the tip being where the cables currently attach, and the base is the disk suspended mid-way between.
The same principal should work for a larger table if you spread it across two tensegrity systems. Basically build 1 large dining table with two tensegrity 'posts' to support the weight. Great video!
Beautiful table. Just a suggestion, but maybe try crisscrossing small wires to keep it from racking.
Use stiff springs in combination with the tensioners so it keeps tension longer and stays more stable
add 4 tension cables on the outside that are not totally vertical. on the bottom part, you can put 4 new spots where to tie wires, halfway between the corners and the center, and bind them to the original top spots. that way, you will have a MUCH more stable table. Stable table. Stable table... sounds awesome!
John this video is awesome..... you bring a lot of humor into metal and wood working..
Thats my goal my friend! thank you!
@@John_Malecki would it be possible on version 3 to replace the center chain with opposing magnets
Rather than going straight to dining table, I vote for a hexagonal coffee table. I figure after 6 anchors on the outside, you hit diminishing returns. Further, trying it with a coffee table first is simpler due to the height required.
I would also change the strut to be a triangular pyramid, the top rotated 60 degrees off the bottom so the apex of each pyramid is within the other. This will further stabilize the forces by spreading them across the table, rather than just on one side.
That is an interesting idea.
How can one dislike an amazing work like this it's definitely worth admiration
you could add diagonal support cables, like go from bottom corners A, B and C to Corner B (and do that for all four corners). 3 times the cable strength with the same cable. Evan and Katelyn's tensegrity table held like 25 pounds without flexing that way and they used clear plastic cord
You should try implementing springs into the underside of the table to combat the loss in support tension (4 string thingies) when bearing a load
A multi level corner shelf would be suuuuper sexy!!! Definitely wanna try this myself!
Maybe find a way to keep constant tension on the out side cables like with springs or or something or maybe one long cable that is both the middle and the out side ones
If you make another version, to help with the stabilization, you could add some heavy springs to the corner cables on the underside of the base so they'll keep tension while you add weight to it.
Awesome project! So, to save time: Chipmunk, profile gauge, it will crack next winter and split next summer because of the frame, and the fact that maple is stronger than walnut. OK. Now that I've got THAT out of the way... Synthetic cable, pretensioned, for the outside, and perhaps a convex or concave shape to the top, to heighten the effect. Keep up the great work!
I’m surprised it took this long for someone to comment on how it will explode apart. Haha
Just shooting ideas: have a pump pump up water to the top. Have it waterfall at the corners to hide the cables. I think it would look sick if you painted it like mossy mountainous rock, floating in mid air with streams coming off of it
Can the cables be coloured?
That is really awesome it looks like the only thing holding it up is the cable connecting the metal
If you add tensioners to the cables hidden underneath, maybe with a pulley to make the 90 turn you could probably get it more stable
To make it stronger, and maybe it can make it cool as well you could use a chain in the center, it won’t look like its floating but this one didn’t either and it still looks awesome
I think for the next one you need to step up to active control. If you can adjust the tension of the guy wires in real time I think you can increase the stability.
Try using three main tension cables at an angle. That way the tension not only holds the table up, but also pulls it in three different ways, keeping it stably centered. Should all but eliminate the wobble. Take a bike wheel for example, as they also get their strength from all the spokes being in tension in different directions. You could also use 6 and cross them over each other for even more stability, kinda like a funky looking wheel with 12 spokes
Make all the sections curvilinear. Candycane or question mark-shaped supports and ovular base and top. Hide the ferrules inside the supports.
Place internal tension springs that hold onto the external/corner wires. When you place weight onto the top causing the center cord/wire to "stretch", the external wires will stay taut keeping the top balanced.
Great build again John! Love your videos! Keep up the good work! Love these tensegrity tables a lot!
Thank you my friend, man you watch fast!
@@John_Malecki I'm always waiting for new videos to come out;) And to be honest I skip to the end result first before watching the whole video!
The editing on his videos are honestly so incredible. If I weren't interested in the content, tbh I'd still watch them just for how beautiful they are.
I will let our editor know !
Ok soo. This is the second video I've seen from you and I had to subscribe. I wanted to click that button 30 seconds into the first vid (wooden levi-table) but I'm working on my impulse scribing... First off... THE QUALITY. Of everything.. your videos the material... your attention to details..... Craftsmanship.. id literally put a TV in the corner that repeats all your vids on your channel... keep this up.
OK, all I wanna say is keep it up, cause it's about that time when Star Trek comes out with a new version, and I can see these being used all over the ship
How about a hexagonal base & top with struts coming off of every alternate corner so that you get two interlaced pyramids? That might conceal the tension wire.
You can camouflage the center wire with similar colors as the table as well as blacks and browns to hide it.
Diagonal exterior wires/cables. Will create horizontal loads to prevent twisting. Vertical loads will still exist to create the effect. Should allow smaller external cables to achieve goal.
For the thinner tension wires, why not connect them under the top with spring tensioners, so that as weight is added they are automatically kept at roughly the same tension?
I'd put an obvious chunky chain in the middle and the "invisible" wire cables on the outer points. Or a mix of chain and cable. Optical illusion of balancing on the chain.
I have multiples ideas for you:
1. In a shape of a prism (ex: in octogonal, pentagonal, hexagonal shape, etc.)
2. Shelf
3. Desk
4. Dining table
Try cris crossing the corners even though its using 8 outside wires i wonder if it would eliminate the rocking
Instead of having just 4 wires that go straight up put 8 wires that cross and go to both other corners. Create Xs on the faces and that swill keep it from rocking and make a table that is actually sturdy and useable as a table that doesn't fall apart of you put something in the wrong spot. The main issues right now when it spins or rocks.
If the internet is right I think te best kinde off wire you can use is kevlar it can hold 520.000lbs/ square inch or in metric 365,57 kg/ mm^2.
Because it can hold a lot of weight per small surfes you van make the wire almost invisible.
A tension ring in the center. And all the outer cables tied to the ring to give it a floating effect.
Needs a river table top and leds under the top to show off the base 👏🏼
Larger table. Like a coffee table or dining table. Could use 2 center pieces facing in opposite directions. Also would look really cool with a clear resin river so you can see down into the floating madness you've made.
ahhhh, such a tiny little guy, but so much creativity and ingenuity. Should come here out west to oregon, where the men are men and the sheep are scared, all us farm boys look like professional linebackers, but, just goto work like schmucks... would kill to be able to make a living at creative work as you do. You're a lucky man john, god bless you and yours, keep the vids coming, love them... tiny feller ;-)
I would love to see you take that floating concept and make a chair or bench.
I was thinking of a chair as well.
You should make it in a way that it somehow creates tension on the outside strings as you put pressure on top of it.
I was thinking maybe making the outside strings go in a zigzag pattern so that it in a way pulls them when you put something on top.
Love your videos. You look like me goofing off at work. Dancing with music blaring
the orange metal reminded me of a Jory Brigham piece.. looks cool.... version 2 however, what about magnets for the center pushing apart from each other with the cables on the outside holding it together so it will literally be floating with just the cables holding it down
that headbanging at 1:51 is the exact same headbanging i do when Metallicas Dyers Eve is played
Cross the lighter cables for added stability. Top left to lower right and so on... then try going front to back... all cables meet in middle... have the light cables hold a ring or bend back at a ring... now run the main cable through the ring in the middle... dining table size...
With matching floating chairs... you are a stumbling genius! Figure it out 😁
should do one more crimp on each of the big ferrules. PS, when it says the WLL (working load limit) is 800 pounds, they factor in a 5:1 safety factor. that center cable will hold 4000 lbs before it shears
Next table it would be cool to see like 2 interwoven triangles with the center cable between the 2 points in the middle
Do a hexagonal shape maybe? Also, you might want to balance the weight of the top with counterweights opposite the arm that comes down. It looks like that's the reason it was moving towards that side when weight was applied.
You could achieve 100% stability and remove the wobble by running 2 runs of cable at ~45 degree angles in opposing directions from one corner on the bottom to adjacent corners on the top. Tables need to be reliable. Love the builds man, keep it up, Roll Tide!
Awesome build. A suggestion, a 2 tier tengricity table
For the next version, you could cross the outer cables instead of going straight up and down. Essentially all of the cables would meet in the middle.
Bracing meeting in one point doesn‘t work. However you are right, the outer cables should not be straight down, do triangles on each side.
McMaster is awesome because not only can you get almost anything there, they also provide solid models for whatever system you're using for almost everything they sell. I have a gigantic library of hardware that I use for work and hobbies.
Love your stuff mate - even made me start to perform squirrely woodwork! all the best from the UK and keep it up John and Sam!
I would absolutely buy this table. It's rad.🖤 And I really like the big wire in the middle, haha. 🤷🏻♀
it looks even better than the last cause instead of no wires it looks like its being held up by one UNEXPLAINABLY
I'm kicking around an Adirondack chair idea inspired by your first version video. One thing I'm going to incorporate is crossing the cables diagonally instead of having them go just vertical. It won't look as clean but should cut down on the racking under load. Keep up the good work man!
May I suggest same cables but on the bottom, connect them in a way to tighten/toque the 4 outside wires to at least half their breaking limit. That will definitely increase stability with weight... you could possibly get 500lbs if the outside lines are evenly tight and keep the weight in center... good luck
It reminds me of an old-school billiards table. I dig it!
Not only would heavier cables on the outside help stability and “payload”? But it would look beefier. The table will still mind-fudge your brain. Can’t wait to see it.
Bondo drys depending on the ratio of hardner you mix. If you put less hardener you’ll have more time before it the bondo drys.
A pulley system inside the base could tighten the 4 strings when the center string is under load.
I absolutely love this table. Very awesome!!!
it would be interesting to transfer some of the tension from the central cable to being tension on the outer cables, for example if the center cable routed down the base so that the weight transfered to pull force on the outer cables, it would solve the issue with outer cables losing tension when too much weight is applied, and the outer cables would only need to be roughly 1/4th the tensile strength of the center cable.
I'd love to see you make it look like it is chain links, but tensegrity...
So having the middle anchors be squares around each other, locked together, but then still floating.
I think diagonal wires from top left to bottom right corners would fix the rotational stability a lot. It wouldn't look as impressive though.
I have been building small 6^3" versions of this on my 3d printer. I am going to give my idea a shot.
Put this one under load and tension the outer cables with the turn buckle underneath.
From the examples I've seen elsewhere, I'm thinking that the stability may be improved by having the vertical parts that hold the main cable facing each other, instead of at a right angle to each other.
I wish the wood grain lined up! Very cool conceptual model!
Use diagonal stabilizing cables. Will almost entirely eliminate wobble.
Love this one even better... and I agree a dining table would be neat... or how about a actual chair you could sit in!