Ive never used the tool, I've used socket on inside edge of lip. Its Works well. Taping it in on out edge don't work to well on that lip. I build stroker motor for a living. I use brass freeze plugs and line the letter up on sides of the block so everything looks fluid and attention to detail. Also when using tool alot of mechanics mis judge distance while tapping it in with tool and go to far in block and have to by a second set of plugs. After the mistake.
Just ran across this..Nice video, Only suggestion is what the Ford shop manual states to use threadlocker 262 E2FZ-19554-B on the plug and block mate surface and not RTV.. I cant speak for all manufactures, but thats what Ford recommends at least....
I solute you !...I just got the four 1inch plugs I needed for my AMC 360 for my jeep project....as soon as I get them in the side of the cylinder heads, I can install my new ceramic coated headers
Interesting ,never saw those tools... never knew they existed, and never needed them either; i guess they may come handy for some hard to get at, core plugs, when done with the engine in the car.
Use the cheaper steel ones then. The dude was trying to give you good advice with a better product but you want to ask a goofy question trying to be smart.
Hi Justin, I ran across this video today as I was debating over what sealant to use on freeze plugs on my 49 Dodge. Nice Job on the TH-cam page. Scott Norman
i put it on both,but never regular silicone; it is not made for smooth and machined surfaces; hylomar is one brand,i mostly use off brands,is a very fine sealer meant for rectified surfaces; but silicone, very THINLY applied on both surfaces, will do too; same with varnish, the old indian head lol .
That's brave. Since there can be imperfections in the surfaces and imperfections in the installation, why would you still not want to use sealant? To me, it is like paying five cents for insurance against leaks.
That is the stupidest tool. Why would you want a tool that is not straight? You would never be able to use that if the engine was in the car. A socket works fine. But I do like the adapter with the ridge that fits in the freeze plug.
You are right, that it doesn't make a lot of sense to have an angled tool when you are working on an engine on a stand. However, have you ever tried to install a freeze plug on an engine that is in a vehicle? You almost never have straight, unobstructed access to the plug. The angle on the installer comes in very handy!
Literally the point of the tool. I'm desperately trying to get a core plug back into my 98 Ford Ranger and theres no room to swing a hammer and then angle its at forces me to use something with an angle.
It is not the sealant that holds the plug in place. It is the interference fit (the plug is actually slightly larger than the hole). The sealant is only there to fill in tiny imperfections in the surfaces so that coolant doesn't seep past the plug.
Ive never used the tool, I've used socket on inside edge of lip. Its Works well. Taping it in on out edge don't work to well on that lip. I build stroker motor for a living. I use brass freeze plugs and line the letter up on sides of the block so everything looks fluid and attention to detail. Also when using tool alot of mechanics mis judge distance while tapping it in with tool and go to far in block and have to by a second set of plugs. After the mistake.
Just ran across this..Nice video, Only suggestion is what the Ford shop manual states to use threadlocker 262 E2FZ-19554-B on the plug and block mate surface and not RTV.. I cant speak for all manufactures, but thats what Ford recommends at least....
Thanks!
I solute you !...I just got the four 1inch plugs I needed for my AMC 360 for my jeep project....as soon as I get them in the side of the cylinder heads, I can install my new ceramic coated headers
Interesting ,never saw those tools... never knew they existed, and never needed them either; i guess they may come handy for some hard to get at, core plugs, when done with the engine in the car.
You should always use the bronze freeze , or core plugs not the steel.
Then why do they make steel ones?
Why? They make steel for some reason
Use the cheaper steel ones then. The dude was trying to give you good advice with a better product but you want to ask a goofy question trying to be smart.
Hi Justin, I ran across this video today as I was debating over what sealant to use on freeze plugs on my 49 Dodge. Nice Job on the TH-cam page. Scott Norman
Thanks Scott. It is great to hear from you. Hopefully we'll get the chance to visit sometime this summer!
I have the vintage snap on cg version of those
You are supposed to put the sealant in the bore not on the plug. You want it too fill any imperfections in the bore wall.
i put it on both,but never regular silicone; it is not made for smooth and machined surfaces; hylomar is one brand,i mostly use off brands,is a very fine sealer meant for rectified surfaces; but silicone, very THINLY applied on both surfaces, will do too; same with varnish, the old indian head lol .
You don't use sealant on freezeplugs
@James Davis I installed mine without sealents and they leak.
The tools better for in chassis work
What's that tool called?
It is a freeze plug remover/installer.
You don't use sealant on those plugs . If installed correctly they don't leak
That's brave. Since there can be imperfections in the surfaces and imperfections in the installation, why would you still not want to use sealant? To me, it is like paying five cents for insurance against leaks.
Hey, a guy that actually know's it's real name. Core Plug I'm almost impressed.
Awesome video boss thanks
That is the stupidest tool. Why would you want a tool that is not straight? You would never be able to use that if the engine was in the car. A socket works fine. But I do like the adapter with the ridge that fits in the freeze plug.
You are right, that it doesn't make a lot of sense to have an angled tool when you are working on an engine on a stand. However, have you ever tried to install a freeze plug on an engine that is in a vehicle? You almost never have straight, unobstructed access to the plug. The angle on the installer comes in very handy!
Literally the point of the tool. I'm desperately trying to get a core plug back into my 98 Ford Ranger and theres no room to swing a hammer and then angle its at forces me to use something with an angle.
Review is not good to use as it can pop out with extreme heat or pressure. Better with high tack...
It is not the sealant that holds the plug in place. It is the interference fit (the plug is actually slightly larger than the hole). The sealant is only there to fill in tiny imperfections in the surfaces so that coolant doesn't seep past the plug.