My recollection from mechanic's training is that you want to drive the outer lip flush rather than driving the inside because the force of driving it from the inside can warp the outer bits. That would also help with getting it cocked. Did anyone else get that lecture? That said doing anything in a cramped space will always be whatever gets the job done.
Since you 'jacked up' the motor did you have to disconnect the hardened fuel line to the fuel pump. exhaust pipes, throttle linkage. driveline. Also did you have to loosen the transmission mounting bolts to free the motor enough to raise it@@DIYOnTheHouse
A few suggestions: 1. Use a deep well socket. It gives you room to grip it while tapping. 2. Use Permatex water pump gasket maker. It is especially formulated to work with coolant. 3. Use the right amount of sealant. You applied too much. 4. Use a peen ball hammer. That's what mechanics use. Claw hammers are for carpenters.
Both the drivers and passenger front plugs failed on mine. Found out after i heat siezed the motor. Cooled off and fired right back up while i was filling the radiator. Found out it was like a waterfall. Motor is fine
Thanks. I enjoyed both your videos on this topic. I'm about to try this on my 1972 Datsun 240Z. It seems that the brass replacement plugs would last longer and never rust ? Any reason why I should use steel ones instead ?
Hello. I have a 1968 Plymouth fury, 318. The plugs behind the motor mounts have to be replaced. The prior owner must've used a gallon of Bars leaks but that's another story. I'd say the location and set up is basically the same, how would you suggest to hold the engine up when I remove the mounts? The short answer is to pull the engine, I'm a disabled veteran and don't have the equipment and readily available help so I'm praying I can accomplish this with the engine in the car. Thank you!
If you are replacing the ones on the back of the engine you would need to gain access. The ones on the sides can be done with the engine in, if you have the room. It's a knuckle buster.
I have one leaking on my 88 Ford F250 7.3 diesel. Gotta do this but I need the freeze plug tool to do it. Its in the back of the block between the firewall and engine. The tool will allow you to do it without having to pull the motor.
Do I need to remove both motor mounts or just loosen the opposite side only just to replace one freeze plug behind the driver side motor mount (350 chevy)?
I feel your pain! Discovered the one behind the motor mount was leaking on my 71 Chevelle. Luckily I don’t drive much, but was contemplating pulling the motor before I started thinking about doing it your way. I have all the time in the world to work on it. Great video and now gotta start on mine ! Maybe I’ll video it too….
I really like how much help me to due my truck have the problem leak of one of the plugs of under the motor mounts I see you vídeo an help me so much to due myself thanks and I hope you have nice day thanks again 🙏🙏🙏👍
Hey, how difficult was removing the motor mount bracket? Having to do this job on a 2000 K3500 pickup with a 350. Texas truck it's entire life and bolts are completely rusted! PB blaster every day for the last week and still no change. How rusty were yours, and what did you have to do to get access to the bottom bolt? Think if I apply enough heat and penetrating fluid I can use a wrench and a long bar to break it free. Thanks!
My bolts came off not problems. You will need to heat yours to remove them. This video was done on a 77 blazer, so everything was accessible. Good luck
Hi ...i have a similar problem ...can you help me ....engine temp skyrocketed...stopped car ...opened bonnet...tiny hole spraying out coolant....not sure what to do and if something else is damaged
Got a 77 cadillac and there is whitish corrosion around the freeze plug, I was looking for the coolant drain and saw the freeze plug in rough shape. If it is corroding, that means it is leaking. This is one of the things that happens when cars sit for over 20 years.
I have a 1991 Ford Ranger with a V6 that had a previous owner that neglected to ever change the antifreeze. Now, I have one freeze plug leaking. Of course, it’s the one on the back end of the right bank head up against the heater box. I don’t have a way to pull the engine out to get to plug to repair it. I’m hoping your video will help me solve the problem. We’ll see.
I'm sure you already addressed it but for others... Pull the head, replace both of the plugs, put it back on. The driver's side is more difficult but as mentioned in other comments you have to do them all so you will end up pulling the engine at some point or risk having them go out one at a time.
A lot more complicated, a whole bunch of new tech that his just simply doesn’t have. On my 72 c20 the sides of the engine is pretty visible and not much required to come out to do the job. Your 14 F150 will need stuff removed. But don’t let me scare you from the job
I’ve been working on my 83 4.9 f150 for going on 3 months , just doing a little here and there. Replaced fuel tank , distributor, carb , rad and all hoses , finally got it purring like a kitten when I noticed a pin hole leak on the block , I didn’t know what a freeze plug was and come real close to crying 😂
I ordered a set for my 54’ Dodge C-1. Most of the videos I’ve seen all the expansion plugs have a decent sized lip edge where you can apply permatex. The ones I got do not… I’m not sure they will work. Anyone have any experience with this style I think I’m gonna return them, the ones on my truck looks as though they have a lip..
Okay I'm very curious as tight as the tolerances are between the plug and the block I highly doubt gasket maker will make a difference LOL do you know this proven and to be true for fact? Or is it something you have just done forever?
I installed some on a motor once and there was some corrosion/pitting on the freeze plug bores on the block. They were in a tight spot where i couldnt really get a good visual. Well i did my usual and "blindly" cleaned all the bores real well with sand paper and brake clean and installed plugs dry. Well 2 of the 4 leaked on me. I pulled them back out and used a mirror on a stick with a flash light and only then did I notice the pitting. Put another set in with RTV and never had a problem after that
@@DIYOnTheHouseI subscribed. You got a amazing channel. I’m trying to be a guy like you that does it all. I need to take out my two back freeze plugs by the transmission. I was just wondering about the back plugs. If yours was leaking too or if you knew there was plugs.
Out of curiosity, I can understand if a plug deteriorates and rusts if someone uses plain water instead of coolant. But, how can they get that deteriorated if the owner uses coolant? Coolant avoids rust
At 5:07 what I would do differently is use a small rubber hose to siphon as much coolant fluid as possible out of the water jacket. That way we don't have wetness infecting the seal on the bottom side. If the whole idea is to get rid of a leak, then lets get rid of the leak. Otherwise we go into leak management mode, which many old car owners often do. Check radiator when cold and replace water as necessary. Like every other operation, we have the old risk benefit analysis. The risk of changing the plug is botching the job and not having an engine anymore. The risk of leak management and of not changing the plug is that leaks always get worse. Actually lifting the engine out of the car is not something one wants to do for trivial reasons. If your engine is running beautifully, piston rings are nice and tight, timing chain is nice and tight, tunes up fantastic, etc., having this crop up and give you this dilemma is a female dog!
Expansion plugs (freeze plugs) are press fit and don't require sealant. I used the sealant as insurance. So if there is coolant left in the water jacket when installing it doesn't matter.
Get a little bit longer socket....and put a little permatex the side of the rim inner side of where you put in the freeze plug put some goober glue or something on that plus the freeze plug itself...ok
There is a couple reasons they are there. 1st is when casting the block a sand type material is used to make voids in the block in this case for water flow, so the plugs are there for that reason. 2nd is for block protection of a freeze. I have seen the results of the plug being pushed out on inboard boat engines that haven't been drained during freezing weather.
I have to do my driver's side front under the motor mount. I don't understand why you spent the time replacing a brass plug with a steel. The brass will never rust, and the steel one will. And for the bad news. As corroded as the steel ones were the ones between the motor and transmission don't have long to live. And if you thought the sides were fun wait until you have to pull the transmission. If you ever do be sure and replace the front transmission seal. And if there's a groove cut in the snout of the torque converter there's a slick repair flange that will take care of it. It's also a good time to look at the rear main seal and if it's leaking a lot it's the time to address it
You are lucky that your engine only has expansion plugs on the front and back, because many engines have expansion plugs on all four sides and in between the transmission and the engine. Once the expansion plugs start going on the front and back then you know the sides of the engine expansion plugs will soon follow
My 3rd gen Chrysler minivan has 2 freeze plugs on the tranny side engine block. It also has two smaller ones on the tranny side cylinder head. To access those freeze plugs on the engine block, you have to drop the tranny.
@@Wanli_Zhang_Arts_Channel I've already replaced three freeze plugs at the back of the engine which is a pain in the butt! I'm not familiar how the transmission is connected to the engine, can a freeze plug in between the engine and transmission leak into the transmission fluid? Or is there a tiny Gap? I'm not seeing any leaks coming from in between those two parts. What a pain in the butt to have to drop the transmission just to punch out a freeze plug, I wish they would how to spent an extra couple dollars and put in brass plugs which supposedly do not corrode
I found the leak!! The Heater core hose was split at the bend right as it connects to the thermostat housing and the fluid was running down the top of the engine toward the rear of the block
after many hours of research I got a micro camera and started to look around toward the back of the engine for antifreeze leaks pouring water into the overflow container and watching by Camara i discovered a small leak in the heating core hose going into the cab of the truck!!
The freeze plugs have killed more motors than they have saved , what’s stupid design , faulty just like the engineer , ℹ could not believe this design when I heard about it a few years ago , still blew my mind after all these years I figured I’d check TH-cam to see how many folks knew how to fix it without pulling the motor , lol 😆 nice fix , but what a pain , now I know what used cars / trucks not to buy lol one with freeze plugs . I’ve never ran a vehicle w out anti freeze
Note: i cant get nobody to help me here....so...im stuck doing all the work myself....im here in Ontario Oregon....im waiting for better weather conditions....here
Another look at replacing freeze plugs: th-cam.com/video/SrWozXoQnBI/w-d-xo.html
My recollection from mechanic's training is that you want to drive the outer lip flush rather than driving the inside because the force of driving it from the inside can warp the outer bits. That would also help with getting it cocked. Did anyone else get that lecture? That said doing anything in a cramped space will always be whatever gets the job done.
👍
Mines gone from the back of the Engine . Got it out . Now ordering in a new one . Your video has given me the confidence to tackle this job myself.
Awesome. Good luck with it.
Thank for showing us this!!! We appreciate it
You bet!
How did you take out the motor mount like the process? Did you have something to hold/support the engine while you were installing the plug?
I used wide wood blocks on the engine oil pan and jacked it up and supported the motor.
@@DIYOnTheHouse EXACTLY 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I've done this before but watched how you did it. Same same. Good job. I have to do that on my '88 GMC now. Thanks for the reminder video.
Glad it helped!
Did you have to jack the motor up to remove the motor mount & did you have to put any type of blocks under the motor
I jacked it up and removed the mounts. I used a 2x6 to protect the pan from the jack.
@@DIYOnTheHouse yea me too
Since you 'jacked up' the motor did you have to disconnect the hardened fuel line to the fuel pump. exhaust pipes, throttle linkage. driveline. Also did you have to loosen the transmission mounting bolts to free the motor enough to raise it@@DIYOnTheHouse
A few suggestions: 1. Use a deep well socket. It gives you room to grip it while tapping. 2. Use Permatex water pump gasket maker. It is especially formulated to work with coolant. 3. Use the right amount of sealant. You applied too much. 4. Use a peen ball hammer. That's what mechanics use. Claw hammers are for carpenters.
There's always one in every crowd...
@@VideoNash one who tries to give good advice?
@@VideoNash a claw hammer Is for joiners.
If hammer can hammer, then it's a hammer
You need to make a video
Both the drivers and passenger front plugs failed on mine. Found out after i heat siezed the motor. Cooled off and fired right back up while i was filling the radiator. Found out it was like a waterfall. Motor is fine
That is great news!
Thanks. I enjoyed both your videos on this topic. I'm about to try this on my 1972 Datsun 240Z. It seems that the brass replacement plugs would last longer and never rust ? Any reason why I should use steel ones instead ?
No reason. I would have used brass as well, but they weren't available locally
@@DIYOnTheHouse Great , Thanks !
Hello. I have a 1968 Plymouth fury, 318. The plugs behind the motor mounts have to be replaced. The prior owner must've used a gallon of Bars leaks but that's another story. I'd say the location and set up is basically the same, how would you suggest to hold the engine up when I remove the mounts?
The short answer is to pull the engine, I'm a disabled veteran and don't have the equipment and readily available help so I'm praying I can accomplish this with the engine in the car. Thank you!
I used a 2x6 against the oil pan and jacked up the engine that way. The 2x6 against the pan keeps it from folding in. Good luck.
I bought JB High Heat Epoxy for doing this. Will that work or should I exchange it for something better? Thanks!
I would go with a silicone, as long as it can sit and cure for 24 hrs.
I would not use epoxy, it will be hell to replace them if you need to later.
Does this video pertain to a 4.3 and 2.8 someone told me I had to remove the drive shaft and pull back the transmission to do it in a 2.8 5 speed
If you are replacing the ones on the back of the engine you would need to gain access. The ones on the sides can be done with the engine in, if you have the room. It's a knuckle buster.
I have one leaking on my 88 Ford F250 7.3 diesel. Gotta do this but I need the freeze plug tool to do it. Its in the back of the block between the firewall and engine. The tool will allow you to do it without having to pull the motor.
i would consult with a diesel shop on that and see what they think.
Do I need to remove both motor mounts or just loosen the opposite side only just to replace one freeze plug behind the driver side motor mount (350 chevy)?
You can just do the one side. Good luck!
I feel your pain! Discovered the one behind the motor mount was leaking on my 71 Chevelle. Luckily I don’t drive much, but was contemplating pulling the motor before I started thinking about doing it your way. I have all the time in the world to work on it. Great video and now gotta start on mine ! Maybe I’ll video it too….
Oh, a 71 Chevelle - nice year!! Let us know how it goes!
I have a 454 and the ones between the block and transmission are the ones that need to be replaced would that be possible without dropping the engine?
Probably need to either pull the engine or transmission.
Agree, the trans or engine.
You should off filmed how you took out motor mount
I really like how much help me to due my truck have the problem leak of one of the plugs of under the motor mounts I see you vídeo an help me so much to due myself thanks and I hope you have nice day thanks again 🙏🙏🙏👍
Glad to help!!
Hey, how difficult was removing the motor mount bracket? Having to do this job on a 2000 K3500 pickup with a 350. Texas truck it's entire life and bolts are completely rusted! PB blaster every day for the last week and still no change. How rusty were yours, and what did you have to do to get access to the bottom bolt? Think if I apply enough heat and penetrating fluid I can use a wrench and a long bar to break it free.
Thanks!
My bolts came off not problems. You will need to heat yours to remove them. This video was done on a 77 blazer, so everything was accessible. Good luck
Does this technique work on a 92 cutlass supreme? I can’t afford to take her to the mechanic and need to replace her freeze plugs at home
It's all about how much room you can create to get tools in there to work. I did a dry run with the hammer etc.. b4 I did the job.
@@DIYOnTheHouse alright, thank you!
hi, you said the front plug is leaking. What is the liquid that is leaking? Is it coolant or oil? Im not familiar with this job. Thanks!
It's antifreeze
Hi great video 😊How many freeze plugs are in a 06 Honda Pilot? Do you recommend doing engine mounts since the engine must be dropped anyway?
Not sure on the amount, but yes on the mounts.
Hi ...i have a similar problem ...can you help me ....engine temp skyrocketed...stopped car ...opened bonnet...tiny hole spraying out coolant....not sure what to do and if something else is damaged
If you can get the plug out, you can put in a temporary compression type plug to get you by for awhile.
Will freeze plug only leak with engine running? I was told freeze plug bad, car been sitting and the fluids in the radiator still holding up
It depends on the corrosion, if it's a small weep you can get by and refill until it can be repaired.
I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee with a straight 6 engine, is there a way to remove the rear plug without removing the engine ? Thank you!
If it is the one on the the rear of the block on the fire wall side, then no it would have to be removed.
@@DIYOnTheHouse That's the one
What about copper spray.... gasket....sealer....can i use that stuff too.....
Sure that should work.
Great video. Thanks, as my plug popped out and I need to replace all 6 on my Rover V8.
Glad it helped
I was wondering how do you get the ones by the firewall
You have to remove the engine.
How long do you think it takes to change them all?
I did all 8 in 4-5 hours including the motor mounts.
Nice video brother, Quick question for you, Is their a stopping point when installing the plug like a lip or groove? Thanks 👍
Hi
No stop. There is a bevel on the block, you can stop even with the interior bevel.
Got a 77 cadillac and there is whitish corrosion around the freeze plug, I was looking for the coolant drain and saw the freeze plug in rough shape. If it is corroding, that means it is leaking. This is one of the things that happens when cars sit for over 20 years.
Your right if there is corrosion there is seepage.
I have a 1991 Ford Ranger with a V6 that had a previous owner that neglected to ever change the antifreeze. Now, I have one freeze plug leaking. Of course, it’s the one on the back end of the right bank head up against the heater box. I don’t have a way to pull the engine out to get to plug to repair it. I’m hoping your video will help me solve the problem. We’ll see.
That's going to be tough with out removing the engine. Sorry
@@DIYOnTheHouse guess I’ll give it a try as soon as it stops raining so much. Thanks anyway.
I'm sure you already addressed it but for others... Pull the head, replace both of the plugs, put it back on. The driver's side is more difficult but as mentioned in other comments you have to do them all so you will end up pulling the engine at some point or risk having them go out one at a time.
You're working ona 1977 how much different is the 2014 F-150?
I depends on how much stuff is in the way. On the 77 I had practiced installing around the motor mounts before I did it to make sure it would work.
A lot more complicated, a whole bunch of new tech that his just simply doesn’t have. On my 72 c20 the sides of the engine is pretty visible and not much required to come out to do the job. Your 14 F150 will need stuff removed. But don’t let me scare you from the job
What happen if the freeze plug fall into the engine , would it be okay to leave in can’t get it out.
It needs to come out. Are the old ones brass or steel?
@@DIYOnTheHouse steel
Not steel but it was brass.
I’ve been working on my 83 4.9 f150 for going on 3 months , just doing a little here and there. Replaced fuel tank , distributor, carb , rad and all hoses , finally got it purring like a kitten when I noticed a pin hole leak on the block , I didn’t know what a freeze plug was and come real close to crying 😂
Hopefully it's on the side. Sounds like a fun project!
I ordered a set for my 54’ Dodge C-1. Most of the videos I’ve seen all the expansion plugs have a decent sized lip edge where you can apply permatex. The ones I got do not… I’m not sure they will work. Anyone have any experience with this style I think I’m gonna return them, the ones on my truck looks as though they have a lip..
Maybe try a different brand. Definitely need the lip.
What do you do if the plug is paper thin and you just keep punching holes in it?
Start working the edges, being careful not to scratch the block. Good Luck.
Omggg
Good question and answering sessions...
Glad you liked it
Very good video , keep on
Thank you!
Okay I'm very curious as tight as the tolerances are between the plug and the block I highly doubt gasket maker will make a difference LOL do you know this proven and to be true for fact? Or is it something you have just done forever?
It's insurance. I have no proof if it is the thing to do or not. But it works and sure doesn't hurt the engine, and best of all not leaks.
I installed some on a motor once and there was some corrosion/pitting on the freeze plug bores on the block. They were in a tight spot where i couldnt really get a good visual. Well i did my usual and "blindly" cleaned all the bores real well with sand paper and brake clean and installed plugs dry. Well 2 of the 4 leaked on me. I pulled them back out and used a mirror on a stick with a flash light and only then did I notice the pitting. Put another set in with RTV and never had a problem after that
@@tylerwightman2315 AWSOME
You didnt change the two behind where it meets the transmission?
Those were in good shape.
@@DIYOnTheHouseI subscribed. You got a amazing channel. I’m trying to be a guy like you that does it all. I need to take out my two back freeze plugs by the transmission. I was just wondering about the back plugs. If yours was leaking too or if you knew there was plugs.
Out of curiosity, I can understand if a plug deteriorates and rusts if someone uses plain water instead of coolant. But, how can they get that deteriorated if the owner uses coolant? Coolant avoids rust
Good Question, I don't have an answer for you.
Since you already have the motor mounts removed, now would be a good time to replace them with new ones.
Absolutely correct. Thanks for the input.
Freeze plug UNDER the motor mount. Good call, GM. It's like they wanted people to get stranded!
Not fun, but doable.
I have a sbc swapped s10 and of course that's the exact one that blew out 😮💨
Great job
Thanks!
At 5:07 what I would do differently is use a small rubber hose to siphon as much coolant fluid as possible out of the water jacket. That way we don't have wetness infecting the seal on the bottom side. If the whole idea is to get rid of a leak, then lets get rid of the leak. Otherwise we go into leak management mode, which many old car owners often do. Check radiator when cold and replace water as necessary. Like every other operation, we have the old risk benefit analysis. The risk of changing the plug is botching the job and not having an engine anymore. The risk of leak management and of not changing the plug is that leaks always get worse. Actually lifting the engine out of the car is not something one wants to do for trivial reasons.
If your engine is running beautifully, piston rings are nice and tight, timing chain is nice and tight, tunes up fantastic, etc., having this crop up and give you this dilemma is a female dog!
Expansion plugs (freeze plugs) are press fit and don't require sealant. I used the sealant as insurance. So if there is coolant left in the water jacket when installing it doesn't matter.
Good job! 👍
Thanks!
Did you have enough room without removing exact manifolds?
I did. Just the motor mounts and starter in the way.
Get a little bit longer socket....and put a little permatex the side of the rim inner side of where you put in the freeze plug put some goober glue or something on that plus the freeze plug itself...ok
👍
What is the point of the freeze plugs
They’ll push out to keep the block from cracking if anything were to ever freeze inside of it
They also pop with too much pressure... like over filling your oil.
There is a couple reasons they are there. 1st is when casting the block a sand type material is used to make voids in the block in this case for water flow, so the plugs are there for that reason. 2nd is for block protection of a freeze. I have seen the results of the plug being pushed out on inboard boat engines that haven't been drained during freezing weather.
i had a sm blk chevy v8 freeze and rupture the side of the block & none of the plugs were askew, popped out or leaking...
@@guitarman_3693 wow
Will you change my freeze plugs...
I have to do my driver's side front under the motor mount. I don't understand why you spent the time replacing a brass plug with a steel. The brass will never rust, and the steel one will.
And for the bad news. As corroded as the steel ones were the ones between the motor and transmission don't have long to live. And if you thought the sides were fun wait until you have to pull the transmission. If you ever do be sure and replace the front transmission seal. And if there's a groove cut in the snout of the torque converter there's a slick repair flange that will take care of it. It's also a good time to look at the rear main seal and if it's leaking a lot it's the time to address it
I sold the vehicle, If you use the correct coolant, steel will last for years and years.
Thank you
You're welcome
You are lucky that your engine only has expansion plugs on the front and back, because many engines have expansion plugs on all four sides and in between the transmission and the engine. Once the expansion plugs start going on the front and back then you know the sides of the engine expansion plugs will soon follow
My 3rd gen Chrysler minivan has 2 freeze plugs on the tranny side engine block. It also has two smaller ones on the tranny side cylinder head. To access those freeze plugs on the engine block, you have to drop the tranny.
@@Wanli_Zhang_Arts_Channel I've already replaced three freeze plugs at the back of the engine which is a pain in the butt! I'm not familiar how the transmission is connected to the engine, can a freeze plug in between the engine and transmission leak into the transmission fluid? Or is there a tiny Gap? I'm not seeing any leaks coming from in between those two parts. What a pain in the butt to have to drop the transmission just to punch out a freeze plug, I wish they would how to spent an extra couple dollars and put in brass plugs which supposedly do not corrode
What's your engine v8 ?
Thanks
I'm leaking Antifreeze and overheated then shut it down immediately between the engine and transmission and torque converter!
You will need to remove the engine.
I found the leak!! The Heater core hose was split at the bend right as it connects to the thermostat housing and the fluid was running down the top of the engine toward the rear of the block
@@dirtydan80241 That is GREAT news! Great job!
after many hours of research I got a micro camera and started to look around toward the back of the engine for antifreeze leaks pouring water into the overflow container and watching by Camara i discovered a small leak in the heating core hose going into the cab of the truck!!
nice job!
Thanks!
My plugs are leaking behind the bellowing 😢
😬
The freeze plugs have killed more motors than they have saved , what’s stupid design , faulty just like the engineer , ℹ could not believe this design when I heard about it a few years ago , still blew my mind after all these years I figured I’d check TH-cam to see how many folks knew how to fix it without pulling the motor , lol 😆 nice fix , but what a pain , now I know what used cars / trucks not to buy lol one with freeze plugs . I’ve never ran a vehicle w out anti freeze
😀
@@DIYOnTheHouse DIY for sure , just dropped my video of a 98 prelude crank no start fix
How did you lift the engine? How does a guy lift the engine without a hoist
We don't have a hoist, we have a pulley with chains that we rigged up in the rafters of the barn.
@@DIYOnTheHouse a floor Jack will do !
Note: i cant get nobody to help me here....so...im stuck doing all the work myself....im here in Ontario Oregon....im waiting for better weather conditions....here
Good luck with it.
A claw hammer?
yep
Haaaaaaaa
Brass or Steal freeze plugs.....i have the
I have the steal ones....they should be ok.....right
Brass is better Steel works
Why pick such a easy motor to do it on try like a Cadillac deville motor in car and see how you do
I restore older vehicles as a hobby. I don't see a deville in my future. Why so snarky?
I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban....i have it on car ramps.....ok
👍
Need help
Don't we all
Buy a new car bro
Freeze plugs are a lot cheaper than a new car!
Sounds like you cant wrench lol
I suppose he just wants a truck that will die before this one ever does
That defeat's the purpose of restoring old vehicles.
It’s cheaper to KEEP HER 👍🏻
what are the symptoms of the motor being run hot because of a blown freeze plug ?
Loosing coolant