On my 57 D17, I simply made a mount to run my pump directly off the front of the crank. It’s just a plate to mount the pump, with a couple of spacers to bolt the plate to the steering bolster. I just had to make up a short shaft to go between the pump and the crankshaft to drive the pump. I’m running a Kelley loader that came off an A-C 170. A couple of pieces of angle mount the oil tank and valve on the right side of the loader frame, with a spin on oil filter on the outlet of the tank.
This is awesome, thank you for showing it off. I have an older D17 too and want to install an external hydraulic system that runs a loader and rear remotes. I am not sure how to mount the pump, whether it be mounted on the front and driven off the crank via a shaft or have it belt driven on the side like yours. Do you have any belt slip? Do you have a pressure relief valve in your system somewhere? I would love to know more.
Thanks Miles! Ok pressure release valve is internal on the pump. Belt slip: Yes and no. I had trouble with it at first (and broke a belt with my post hole auger all the way down in a hole) Lately hasn't been an issue. I had to adjust it, try a few different belts before I found what worked. When I do a total restore on this tractor, I'm planning on switching to some sort of chain drive, maybe mounted on the old single groove style crank pulley. I don't know yet. But for the time being, the belt is working well, just not sure if it would hold up as well as a chain over time. The reason I didn't go with a crank mount is I hate seeing the pump sticking out the front (my design looks kinda stock) and it's in a great spot for me to smash it.
Hey I picked up a series 1 a couple months ago, as well as an old shaver post driver for a 3 point (my series 1 has the 3 point conversion). the guy I got the driver from told me I really need a big return to sump line so that the driver can dump the oil back fast enough to let the driver gravity drop and not be slowed down by the oil going through the smaller return hose. My neighbor told me he thought I could just take the big return hose coming back from the driver and stick it in the hydraulic oil fill port where the dipstick is and then take it out when I'm done with the driver. I'm not super talented like you are with tractors, so I want a solution (for now anyway) that'll work but without too much modification. Does it work to just plug the intake hose for the driver into the remote connector above the transport valve and stick the return line in the fill port? I don't have the selector valve by the way. Does that mean that the 3 point ram arms will always be all the way up when I want the driver to be lifted? thank you
Sorry for not getting back sooner. I took a little break from the TH-cams. As for the driver, your plan should work, but be sure to hold the end of the hose to the fill port, or else the pressure will blast it out of the tank. Unfortunately I believe with the valve setup you described the lift arms will pick up each time.
On my 57 D17, I simply made a mount to run my pump directly off the front of the crank. It’s just a plate to mount the pump, with a couple of spacers to bolt the plate to the steering bolster. I just had to make up a short shaft to go between the pump and the crankshaft to drive the pump. I’m running a Kelley loader that came off an A-C 170. A couple of pieces of angle mount the oil tank and valve on the right side of the loader frame, with a spin on oil filter on the outlet of the tank.
A better idea.
You are very talented, I like what you have done, keep the videos coming 👌
Thank you!
This is awesome, thank you for showing it off. I have an older D17 too and want to install an external hydraulic system that runs a loader and rear remotes. I am not sure how to mount the pump, whether it be mounted on the front and driven off the crank via a shaft or have it belt driven on the side like yours. Do you have any belt slip? Do you have a pressure relief valve in your system somewhere? I would love to know more.
Thanks Miles! Ok pressure release valve is internal on the pump. Belt slip: Yes and no. I had trouble with it at first (and broke a belt with my post hole auger all the way down in a hole) Lately hasn't been an issue. I had to adjust it, try a few different belts before I found what worked. When I do a total restore on this tractor, I'm planning on switching to some sort of chain drive, maybe mounted on the old single groove style crank pulley. I don't know yet. But for the time being, the belt is working well, just not sure if it would hold up as well as a chain over time. The reason I didn't go with a crank mount is I hate seeing the pump sticking out the front (my design looks kinda stock) and it's in a great spot for me to smash it.
Good job! I would’ve bought a series 4.
Series 4 would have been nice, but this is what was available. Plus im a sucker for first generation tractors. Thanks for watching.
Why do you need a lot of reservoir capacity on this open center system?
Hey I picked up a series 1 a couple months ago, as well as an old shaver post driver for a 3 point (my series 1 has the 3 point conversion). the guy I got the driver from told me I really need a big return to sump line so that the driver can dump the oil back fast enough to let the driver gravity drop and not be slowed down by the oil going through the smaller return hose. My neighbor told me he thought I could just take the big return hose coming back from the driver and stick it in the hydraulic oil fill port where the dipstick is and then take it out when I'm done with the driver. I'm not super talented like you are with tractors, so I want a solution (for now anyway) that'll work but without too much modification. Does it work to just plug the intake hose for the driver into the remote connector above the transport valve and stick the return line in the fill port? I don't have the selector valve by the way. Does that mean that the 3 point ram arms will always be all the way up when I want the driver to be lifted? thank you
Sorry for not getting back sooner. I took a little break from the TH-cams. As for the driver, your plan should work, but be sure to hold the end of the hose to the fill port, or else the pressure will blast it out of the tank. Unfortunately I believe with the valve setup you described the lift arms will pick up each time.