Love my espar after 4 winters with it. Something to keep an eye on. A dip in the muffler can collect Ltd moisture and freeze, plugging the exhaust. I had it happen the first winter.
I've only had my plans so far in my head for our build beginning of the next two years. Watching your videos has inspired me to start making an items list and drawing up some sketches.Ken, thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I am considering a hydronic system to both warm the engine, the interior and have domestic hot water. Thanks again. Who knows maybe one day everybody in this comment section will be doing a meet up in various places around the country.
What a difficult install, bravo Ken! The wiring looked very intimidating. You are a master craftsman in your van build, and also in filming it with your detailed documentary style. I have learned a great deal from you. If you ever need a place to rest up and reload your van during travels, my house and driveway are open to you - in Santa Clara, CA. I am also very good at fixing any health issues with supplements (over the counter) and back pain issues with targeted stretches. This knowledge I can pass on to you if you need it. Something to give back for all I have received. Many thanks!
Great video! The one thing I noticed, if you are particular about torqued bolts to correct ft/lb using multiple extensions will throw the torque off. 10/10 install
Good to know, I was not aware. I’ll have to think through that, it seems to me the extensions would transmit the same torque through them. But maybe not.
Thanks for the video. For future projects that need larger holes, consider a step bit for your drill. You can get them cheap and in different sizes at Harbor Freight (Under $10). Home Depot and Lowes carry brand names for a little more. Very handy items for making precise size holes easily. Buy the bigger size, as it will make small holes, too.
Your video provides very valuable information! Your setup is well thought-out and it's likely to drive mine toward the same direction. Thanks for taking the effort of sharing!
Great heater i have one install at oktober 2015 and use it 2 winters -14. Works well does not use lotts off electra amd olso diesel.i have 2 140 amp Lithium battery install under front seats and heater at motor .Heats also motor.
I know. what you mean. This weekend's Sprinter project I thought I could do in a day...day three...haha. It would be a bit longer if you videoed all the time staring at the van during planning proccess. That proccess is part of the fun. That bench seat your are installing is slick.
Thanks I didn't think of it in the passenger seat the one I bought is bigger but we'll see if it fits I didn't know about the fuel line tap on the Sprinter so thanks that saves me from drilling a hole in a fuel tank which I didn't want to do
Great video, please keep them coming as you progress through your build. In fact, you should have your own Sunday morning car show!! I'm undecided about installing my D2 myself or hiring it out. If I may ask a quick question, because frankly; I trust your opinion more than my local Espar dealer. My vehicle is a 2016 MB 144.While haveing a discussion with the upfitter, specifically covering what is included in their insane estimate for the installation of a D2, they said that "tapping into the main fuel tank at the aux tank connector is problematic because it's a pressurized system and all adapters and splices will fail. Not to mention the heater will fail from running rich from the over pressurized fuel getting into the heater fuel supply." So their solution is to drop the tank and add a stand pipe. It seems excessive to me, dropping the fuel tank and adding a stand pipe for the Espar heaters pump to draw from. It also seems they've created a problem that no one else on the internet has ever had. My question to you is, is their point even rational? Is this something to even consider?They insist I'm not their personal test case, because they've installed 5 of these. That alone makes me a skeptic. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the super fast reply. Your answer was as I expected. Sadly that means I must attempt this on my own. Unless of course you can be tempted by Oregon IPA, because like you said, now that you've done it, you could do it much faster next time! Keep the videos coming, they're very encouraging.
What was the response to this question? I am interested to know, because I just T’d off of the aux heater fuel line to run fuel to the pump. I am about to install the High Altitude kit.
There is no basis I can think of for that argument. Mercedes leaves the tap there for the purpose of auxiliary heating units. I've never heard of anyone having a problem.
Hey Ken, in another video they mentioned that the the exhaust pipe between the heater the silencer (muffler) needs to be shorter than the tail end. I verified via the espar manual in the notes section on pg 23. "if a silencer is fitted, the exhaust end pipe must be much shorter than the flexible exhaust pipe between the heater and the exhaust silencer." Not sure of the reasoning. Thanks for making this video. I've watched it about 50 times already prepping for my install.
Thanks Jim, I had read that as well. As usual I had to compromise...had I moved the muffler further downstream the exhaust would have needed to turn upward (in order to mount the muffler), and then you create a low point for condensation that will rust the exhaust. Always a compromise, it seems!
@@ourkaravan totally understand. Any tips on making the terminal connectors? I know its way easier using quick splices. Did you use a double crimp tool?
@@jim6335 Yes, I used these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0 for small gauge wire and these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6 for some of the larger stuff. They are reasonably priced, so I pulled the trigger and just bought them.
Hi again thank you for making the video. I didn't watch far enough to see where you had the wiring diagram and talked about the colors.. Again, it would have been helpful to see you connect the individual wires to the espar clip that snaps into the altitude unit.
I'm pretty sure I discussed that in the video. I showed the diagram and how you only use four wires between the HAC and the thermostat. Sorry if it wasn't clear.
Good video thanks. There is no ground on a 12 DC system, it is a negative, hence the symbol on the battery, an AC system is grounded and has no negative,
"Clearly, what we have here is a person too lazy to go to the store and buy the proper hole saw..." = LOL, I paused the video and clicked thumbs up immediately. Love it...and you did just as good of a job as the hole saw would have done. What is the undercoating material? It looks like it was painted on really thick...did you do that or did it come from Mercedes like that?
Ha, I thought I was going to be flamed like crazy for that but most responded pretty well to it. The undercoating is factory, I haven't added anything to the underside. Thanks for the comment!
I'm just installing my heater now. Instructions on CD included in my kit are a bit ambiguous for direction for the metering pump. Figure on page 24 (25.2720.90.0001.0A_EN_0518.pdf) is opposite than shown here at 4:45. However, page 10 of same pdf (scope of supply diagram) agrees with this video. Aaaargh!. My instructions also specify that longer exhaust piping before the muffler than after, compared to your comments around 7:30.
I can't access the document you're talking about but I know for sure my fuel pump is in the correct orientation. As for the exhaust piping, I do believe Espar recommends longer piping before the muffler, I *think* I had indicated in the video that they are quieter if the muffler is further upstream.
@@ourkaravan Thanks for the confirmation, I'm going with that orientation for my initial test. Need to wire up my controller and external temp sensor and then fire it up! :)
Excellent. Thanks so much as I'm getting ready to do this. Regarding the Dorman connector. Did you not need to T-off from the factory fuel connector? Someone else on the Sprinter Forum mentioned having to do that and using Dorman part # 800-176 which is a T. Maybe this is only required if you have the auxiliary fuel heater installed from factory? Or, how did you attach your Dorman connector? Did you cut an existing line? Thanks again.
i'd want that pump more protected.. but my vehicle don't stay on road... i'd just make a plate to put over it. i'd also be worried about the muffler going out the bottom if you go somewhere it snows. You get 36" of snow overnight and end up suffocating cause the exhaust just leaks back in...
Very nice install ! I am running an older D1 heater, still does a great job at heating. I do have one question, is there enough input air coming into the heater as it is mounted under the seat? I did not see a hose run for the input air. My instructions inform me that if a unit is placed in an area that is enclosed that one should make sure they have an air intake for the heater.
Can the Espar unit be installed square against the right side of the seat base? The angle eats up precious space for other electrical components that I would like to use the space for. Seems like the perfect spot for a battery to battery charger for the house pack..
I just completed an install using your video and some blogs for reference. Thank you for taking the time to explain your method - very useful and helpful. One question: where can I find a vented cover for the under-seat access like you have?
Bit late to the party on this one but your vid is very well put together and informative. Question; Is there sufficient access to the heater fuses through that little cover in the side of the seat base when the seat and swivel assy. are in place?
Great video. Helpful info. Got a question. I'm in the planning stages of a Van build but i think I'm going a different route than the Sprinter,possibly a Gasoline Engine. Could I run an Espar Heater if I had a small Tank for Diesel and and a small Pump? Thanks for any info.
Great video and nice install.. if you ever have any need to do any more work would it be possible to get the part number for your seat base ? I'm thinking of doing the same thing but uk-spec vans come with a slightly different seat base that doesn't allow for this type of install
Thanks for the great video! I've got my D2 with altitude sensor installed and working, but haven't figured out (or found search results) how to change to Fahrenheit. How'd you do that?
Congrats on finishing a pretty complicated install! The instructions for changing from deg-C to deg-F should be detailed in the manual for whichever thermostat controller you bought. If you don't have it you can always google "Espar Easy Start Select manual" or whatever version you have. I was able to find mine in a PDF online.
I've heard these diesel heaters are great . . . and would hate to ask a 'stupid' question. But : Can you install them into a non-diesel vehicle by installing a tiny tank to hold diesel for this heater ?
kenetube, thanks for the very informative video. I'm wondering why you have the auxiliary battery setup and an additional lithium battery. Does the auxiliary serve any additional purpose? The reason for my question is I just put my order in for the new 2019 Sprinter (a change from the VW crafter), and I opted for no auxiliary battery.
Awesome video, saved me a ton of time figuring it out. I just have one question, what happens with the yellow wire coming out of the altitude sensor ? the wiring diagram says it should also be connected to the head unit.(?) Thanks
I looked back at the video and it looks like the yellow wire in the harness connects to the yellow in the high altitude sensor. Wiring diagram and my connections are shown at the 14 minute mark in the video. Is this consistent with your wiring?
I know you added the Esper D2 last February, just wondering if you've you have used it enough to have an opinion about it's size and capacity? Also, did you order your Sprinter with the luggage rails or are you added those later?
Nice Job! Can you tell me where to find the "grill" that you installed in the base of the passengers seat base (you removed the 2 clip access panel and replaced it with a grill at the end of this video) ?
Great video thanks for the info. Just to check I know you mentioned that the connections to the aux battery was temporary but please tell me you fused the wire at the connection?
wow, your video makes it looks so easy and I want to install one of these in my Promaster campervan too. But I know there is a lot of hard work went into the installation. Thank you for sharing! Have you ever considered the webasto diesel heater when you planned the installation? Have you done any comparison between the two brands?
My Webasto heater has a knob that sets exact temperatures. I had it installed in my Sprinter about 4-5 months ago. I chose the "digital" thermostat. It cost a little more
Hi there! There are 4 wires hooking up to the battery. Did you use an inline fuse before attaching the wires to the battery. And which wires are attached to the positive terminal.
Congrats and BIG Thanks for your videos. In regards to the Espar; What unit did you get?; the Espar 2.2 KW or the 4 KW unit?. Thanks and keep the lights on for the rest of us.
I did the same install , I'm very good at wiring but found this install to be very intimidating but like you said after you do it once it would be a piece of cake to do it again. Thank you for your video I gathered a lot of info from your video and others , I definetly couldn't have done it with out the help. How did you change it from low , med , high , boost? Thank you for taking the time.
Congrats on the install! The Espar figures out the correct mode to run. It's interesting how it works--when you first turn it on, the furnace runs at full speed to bring the van to temperature. Once it hits the set point the Espar picks the correct speed to keep the van to temperature. It does this by measuring the temperature of the intake air and the room temp and tries to run at the lowest speed possible without exceeding the set temp. If set temp is exceeded, it shuts down. It's smart because the constant stopping and restarting uses more energy as it needs the glow plug to relight.
Another question regarding the Power cable aspect of the loom and the fuse box. My POWER cable part of the loom has four wires, seems identical to yours. Two larger gauge RED and Brown for power and ground. I have a BLUE SEA fuse box under my drivers seat so I assumed I could hook up those two wires to my fuse box and use a 20Amp fuse at that terminal on the fuse box. IS that in error? Then I am left with what to do with the smaller gauge wires (Red and Red/White). I have not used the supplied holder as I uncertain on how to do so. My manual only shows a two wire power cable as opposed to four. Can I somehow connect them though a fuse box or do I need to have them on separate fuse holder. I see that you used the supplied fuse holder but that seems to be before you had added fuse boxes. You also seemed to have that under the passenger seat. I am confused as to where that would tie into my loom under passenger seat and I thought it would be better to have fuse closer to the power source. Did you alter any of your wiring once BlueSea fuse boxes were added? Additional question, did you have to modify your exhaust location when you added electric step? My exhaust will terminate under sliding door and I figure i should plan ahead for the possible addition of the step. Again, thank you. Your site is one of the most informative "how to" sites I have ever seen, across multiple disciplines.
Hi Charles, it's actually better to have the fuse located closer to the source...so yes, you can use that to fuse the wire to the Espar and then you won't need the fuse block supplied with the Espar. I recall two circuits, a 20 amp one for the glow plug start up and a 5 amp one to run the fan. It seems like you would need two runs of wires from your blue sea--a 20A one and a 5A one. Mine is still wired the way you saw in the video with no modification. I did move my espar exhaust to the other side of the van. There is actually a very good, straight and level path if your van is 2wd. Perhaps you can email me (contact link at ourkaravan.com) and I'll send you a photo. And thank you, I really appreciate the complements! Ken
My instructions say ...."If a silencer is fitted, the exhaust end pipe must be much shorter than the flexible exhaust pipe between the heater and the exhaust silencer." Do you have this backwards? - Thanks Peter
Kenetube - Where did you get the replacement vent cover for the passenger seat base. Looks like a cool little detail to help provide airflow around the heater. Thanks for a great video!
Good video. Thanks. I'm getting my 2014 ready for D2 install. In your video I didn't see a mention of the wiring that goes to the dosing pump. From what I can determine, it is the branch that only has two wires. My D2 kit came with two red wire leads that have crimped connectors on one end and I think these plug into the dosing pump and then connect to the two wire harness. Am I on the right track?
Great video and channel, definitely a new subscriber. Have you noticed any problem with condensation since you’re only taking combustion air from the outside, and not the cold air intake?
Thank you Kevin. My understanding is that since the combustion and exhaust occur outside the vehicle and only room air is drawn in and heated, if anything it should have a drying effect. I have had no issues with moisture.
Hi Great videos! Your site is supper helpful, thanks. I’m building a Sprinter now and currently installing a d2 espar. I got the quick connection you used, but can’t figure out how you went direct from the quick connect to the black tubing without a second reduction in tub diameter. The fuel hose that fits the black hose seems too small to force onto the quick connection. Any comment would be appreciated. Thank chris To
It was a couple of years now so I can't remember precisely how I did it, but you may want to think about heating up one of the sections of rubber hose and pushing it over something of about the same size as the quick connect to stretch it. That's assuming of course that it's at least close in size.
Warning do not disconnect the wires to your seat it will set off an error code on the SRS airbag restraint system set only the dealer will be able to reset for $180 I have a specially-made computer testing tool and it could not reset the error code
I believe the glow plug circuit has a 20 amp fuse, so that would be the max. But that is not a sustained current. The fan and metering pump average a couple of amps. Espar has the detailed specs on their website. Thanks for the complements!
Thanks for the great video. I am about to install my High Altitude Kit, and I am curious, did you bury it in the wall, or leave it exposed? the instructions say it can’t be in an “air-tight” location, and I am wondering if burying it behind the wall will create issues.
I did put mine in the wall behind the headliner. It's far from air tight as there are weep holes in the bottom of the body to allow water out, so there's no way for the wall to retain pressure (air) as you change altitude. Now I did not wrap it in insulation, it's between the insulation and the back side of the headliner.
Hello, I am currently installing a D2. All is going well be I have one question: the battery connection line has 4 wires: brown (ground), big red, small red, and small red/white. Are the small wires all + and need to be independently fused? Is the brown wire the only one that needs to be run to ground? Thanks!
You'll have to confirm in the wiring diagram, but the thicker red is positive and connects the 20 amp fuse (this is the glow plug circuit), the smaller red is also positive and goes to the 5 amp fuse (for the fan motor), brown is ground and I believe the red/white is not used.
Hey, great video, very helpful. Are those factory swivel seats? I know the seat base is shorter with the factory swivel seats and I have been a little concerned about wether or not the espar would still fit under there. Thanks for your video and in advance for your response!
This is an awesome video, thanks for posting. It helped me to get almost all the way there. I was shipped a very different wiring harness that doesn't seem to be for this application. DO you happen to know the part number of the harness that you have? I'm dead in the water until I figure this part out. Thanks
Bummer, The part number is on the cable by the large wiring harness clip that connects by the heater (@9:26).I tried to screen grab, but it's just too blurry. That is also where my harness splits three ways, then ultimately terminating to two on the end of the very long bundles. There is no way for it to be installed in any manner that I can think of...and Heatso.com is playing dumb with the parts, that's also where I ordered. It's super frustrating. If I can find the part number that you have for your harness, I'll just order it and be done. The build is at a hold out while I try and sort this electrical nightmare. Thanks again for the help!
Hello, I was looking at the Espar B4L M2 model for a Ford Transit, it says it works at high altitude out of the box with no adjustments. Have you heard about the new model? At the checkout and there's no place for your coupon code, was that just for the model you installed? Thanks for all the help and great video.
Yes, the newer models have the HA sensor built in. The coupon code is good for D4R D4L and D2L, as well as the older style D2, B4, D4, D4L. Unfortunately I'm not sure the one you mentioned qualifies for the discount. You can email heatso and ask, perhaps they'll honor the code?
The installation of the heater in this sprinter video and numerous others on TH-cam are wrong. Heater should not be installed heated end down. Heat end of unit must be either level or upwards. The unit will overheat itself. Its clearly shown in instructions of these heaters
You’ll find that Mercedes uses this exact location on some overseas models. I’m at nearly five years now with not a single issue, along with tens of thousands of other people running theirs in the exact same location.
Great video. Question - have you heard of this heater overheating when located under the seat? There is a espar sealer in denver and they WILL NOT install them under the seat because they said they overheat constantly in that location. Any thoughts? I’m not sure where to install mine but I want it under the seat.
Did you purchase a mounting bracket? Does the thermostat work without the external temperature sensor? Thank you for the great vids Ken, I have been using your amazon links. Hope it helps you out.
Love my espar after 4 winters with it. Something to keep an eye on. A dip in the muffler can collect Ltd moisture and freeze, plugging the exhaust. I had it happen the first winter.
Truck House Life does a really good install video of a webasto heater..
I've only had my plans so far in my head for our build beginning of the next two years. Watching your videos has inspired me to start making an items list and drawing up some sketches.Ken, thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I am considering a hydronic system to both warm the engine, the interior and have domestic hot water. Thanks again. Who knows maybe one day everybody in this comment section will be doing a meet up in various places around the country.
kenetube will do cheers!!!
Great videos! You are a natural teacher. We were able to install our Max Air fan with your help. Thank you! Happy wandering.
Thank you, take care and enjoy that van!
What a difficult install, bravo Ken! The wiring looked very intimidating. You are a master craftsman in your van build, and also in filming it with your detailed documentary style. I have learned a great deal from you. If you ever need a place to rest up and reload your van during travels, my house and driveway are open to you - in Santa Clara, CA. I am also very good at fixing any health issues with supplements (over the counter) and back pain issues with targeted stretches. This knowledge I can pass on to you if you need it. Something to give back for all I have received. Many thanks!
Thank you, much appreciated! The electrical was definitely the most challenging part.
I absolutely love your choice in music.
Great video! The one thing I noticed, if you are particular about torqued bolts to correct ft/lb using multiple extensions will throw the torque off. 10/10 install
Good to know, I was not aware. I’ll have to think through that, it seems to me the extensions would transmit the same torque through them. But maybe not.
Nice video I have an espar heater in my sprinter van in the rear and they work great. I ski camp all the time and I'm never cold
Thanks for the video. For future projects that need larger holes, consider a step bit for your drill. You can get them cheap and in different sizes at Harbor Freight (Under $10). Home Depot and Lowes carry brand names for a little more. Very handy items for making precise size holes easily. Buy the bigger size, as it will make small holes, too.
Thanks for making these videos! I'm in the planning stages of my sprinter and showing where all the wires go really help!
Excellent video!! After a week long Yosemite trip in 30 deg temps without a heater, this is next on my list!
I’m copying your installation. Thank you for all the time you put into these videos
Your video provides very valuable information! Your setup is well thought-out and it's likely to drive mine toward the same direction. Thanks for taking the effort of sharing!
night heater running in my cab at work....enjoying your skills 😎
Great heater i have one install at oktober 2015 and use it 2 winters -14.
Works well does not use lotts off electra amd olso diesel.i have 2 140 amp Lithium battery install under front seats and heater at motor .Heats also motor.
You make it look so easy Ken. Keep up the good work and cinematography.
I know. what you mean. This weekend's Sprinter project I thought I could do in a day...day three...haha. It would be a bit longer if you videoed all the time staring at the van during planning proccess. That proccess is part of the fun. That bench seat your are installing is slick.
Thanks I didn't think of it in the passenger seat the one I bought is bigger but we'll see if it fits I didn't know about the fuel line tap on the Sprinter so thanks that saves me from drilling a hole in a fuel tank which I didn't want to do
Most US Sprinters have the aux fuel tap but I've heard some Canadian vans don't have it for whatever reason.
Wow really great install and great video. I'll be following along with your entire van build.
You did have right tools, but you make it nice and clean works
Great video, please keep them coming as you progress through your build. In fact, you should have your own Sunday morning car show!! I'm undecided about installing my D2 myself or hiring it out. If I may ask a quick question, because frankly; I trust your opinion more than my local Espar dealer. My vehicle is a 2016 MB 144.While haveing a discussion with the upfitter, specifically covering what is included in their insane estimate for the installation of a D2, they said that "tapping into the main fuel tank at the aux tank connector is problematic because it's a pressurized system and all adapters and splices will fail. Not to mention the heater will fail from running rich from the over pressurized fuel getting into the heater fuel supply." So their solution is to drop the tank and add a stand pipe. It seems excessive to me, dropping the fuel tank and adding a stand pipe for the Espar heaters pump to draw from. It also seems they've created a problem that no one else on the internet has ever had. My question to you is, is their point even rational? Is this something to even consider?They insist I'm not their personal test case, because they've installed 5 of these. That alone makes me a skeptic. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the super fast reply. Your answer was as I expected. Sadly that means I must attempt this on my own. Unless of course you can be tempted by Oregon IPA, because like you said, now that you've done it, you could do it much faster next time! Keep the videos coming, they're very encouraging.
What was the response to this question? I am interested to know, because I just T’d off of the aux heater fuel line to run fuel to the pump. I am about to install the High Altitude kit.
There is no basis I can think of for that argument. Mercedes leaves the tap there for the purpose of auxiliary heating units. I've never heard of anyone having a problem.
Hey Ken, in another video they mentioned that the the exhaust pipe between the heater the silencer (muffler) needs to be shorter than the tail end. I verified via the espar manual in the notes section on pg 23. "if a silencer is fitted, the exhaust end pipe must be much shorter than the flexible exhaust pipe between the heater and the exhaust silencer." Not sure of the reasoning. Thanks for making this video. I've watched it about 50 times already prepping for my install.
Thanks Jim, I had read that as well. As usual I had to compromise...had I moved the muffler further downstream the exhaust would have needed to turn upward (in order to mount the muffler), and then you create a low point for condensation that will rust the exhaust. Always a compromise, it seems!
@@ourkaravan totally understand. Any tips on making the terminal connectors? I know its way easier using quick splices. Did you use a double crimp tool?
@@jim6335 Yes, I used these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0 for small gauge wire and these www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6 for some of the larger stuff. They are reasonably priced, so I pulled the trigger and just bought them.
Just love the vacuum and de burring
Dude! Awesome detailed presentation. You rock!! :)
Thanks indeed, that was the missing information I was looking for! Decided i'll get one...keep posting your vdos..very interesting!
Hi again thank you for making the video. I didn't watch far enough to see where you had the wiring diagram and talked about the colors.. Again, it would have been helpful to see you connect the individual wires to the espar clip that snaps into the altitude unit.
I'm pretty sure I discussed that in the video. I showed the diagram and how you only use four wires between the HAC and the thermostat. Sorry if it wasn't clear.
Good video thanks. There is no ground on a 12 DC system, it is a negative, hence the symbol on the battery, an AC system is grounded and has no negative,
Excellent install my friend! Very impressive. Thanks again for sharing
Eric
Big Transit Adventures
Transit Adventures
Dave Conley transit sucks
Big Transit Adventures I
K. S. Hunt transit? This is sprinter
my Eberspacher D2 is still working very vell after many hours use . innstald in 2005 in a Mb 312d sprinter
Great to hear, thanks!
Great job . Do you know if they offer that for ford transit 2016 ..? Thank you 👍🏽🙂
If you really need to extend the exhaust adapt it to a slightly larger pipe. That should prevent any extra back pressure.
That's what I will do if I ever extend it. Performance exhaust for the Espar, haha.
Any way you can make a video with it running? I would love to hear it. Great Job!
"Clearly, what we have here is a person too lazy to go to the store and buy the proper hole saw..." = LOL, I paused the video and clicked thumbs up immediately. Love it...and you did just as good of a job as the hole saw would have done.
What is the undercoating material? It looks like it was painted on really thick...did you do that or did it come from Mercedes like that?
Ha, I thought I was going to be flamed like crazy for that but most responded pretty well to it.
The undercoating is factory, I haven't added anything to the underside. Thanks for the comment!
I'm just installing my heater now. Instructions on CD included in my kit are a bit ambiguous for direction for the metering pump. Figure on page 24 (25.2720.90.0001.0A_EN_0518.pdf) is opposite than shown here at 4:45. However, page 10 of same pdf (scope of supply diagram) agrees with this video. Aaaargh!.
My instructions also specify that longer exhaust piping before the muffler than after, compared to your comments around 7:30.
I can't access the document you're talking about but I know for sure my fuel pump is in the correct orientation. As for the exhaust piping, I do believe Espar recommends longer piping before the muffler, I *think* I had indicated in the video that they are quieter if the muffler is further upstream.
@@ourkaravan Thanks for the confirmation, I'm going with that orientation for my initial test. Need to wire up my controller and external temp sensor and then fire it up! :)
Such a clear video guide. Thank you.
Didn't have a hole saw but torqued the little 10mm studs.. 😆
Get er done
That scalloped part of the seat base looks like it was made just for the gasket (template) to fit :)
I think I saw somewhere that some factory applications used that location for the diesel heater, but I'm not sure. Sure worked for me though!
Excellent. Thanks so much as I'm getting ready to do this. Regarding the Dorman connector. Did you not need to T-off from the factory fuel connector? Someone else on the Sprinter Forum mentioned having to do that and using Dorman part # 800-176 which is a T. Maybe this is only required if you have the auxiliary fuel heater installed from factory? Or, how did you attach your Dorman connector? Did you cut an existing line? Thanks again.
also you mounted the muffler upside-down the drain hole for water is up the top, should be at the bottom
Mine doesn't seem to have any drain holes. I relocated the exhaust when I installed my Amp Powerstep as the two conflicted with each other.
Thanks for this great video with plenty of info for a good install!
I appreciate the positive feedback! Love the heater...
i'd want that pump more protected.. but my vehicle don't stay on road... i'd just make a plate to put over it. i'd also be worried about the muffler going out the bottom if you go somewhere it snows. You get 36" of snow overnight and end up suffocating cause the exhaust just leaks back in...
Clean work. You are an inspiration for my build that im starting next week! Cheers
Very nice install ! I am running an older D1 heater, still does a great job at heating. I do have one question, is there enough input air coming into the heater as it is mounted under the seat? I did not see a hose run for the input air. My instructions inform me that if a unit is placed in an area that is enclosed that one should make sure they have an air intake for the heater.
Can the Espar unit be installed square against the right side of the seat base? The angle eats up precious space for other electrical components that I would like to use the space for. Seems like the perfect spot for a battery to battery charger for the house pack..
I just completed an install using your video and some blogs for reference. Thank you for taking the time to explain your method - very useful and helpful. One question: where can I find a vented cover for the under-seat access like you have?
Thanks! I just placed an order.
I live in Minnesota, I imagine the espar heater would be roaring like a storm in winter time here?
Bit late to the party on this one but your vid is very well put together and informative. Question; Is there sufficient access to the heater fuses through that little cover in the side of the seat base when the seat and swivel assy. are in place?
where is a good suplier for duct and vent work. i want to roll ducts outside of the van and tusk away when not in use.
Great video. Helpful info.
Got a question.
I'm in the planning stages of a Van build but i think I'm going a different route than the Sprinter,possibly a Gasoline Engine.
Could I run an Espar Heater if I had a small Tank for Diesel and and a small Pump?
Thanks for any info.
Great video and nice install.. if you ever have any need to do any more work would it be possible to get the part number for your seat base ? I'm thinking of doing the same thing but uk-spec vans come with a slightly different seat base that doesn't allow for this type of install
Thanks for the great video! I've got my D2 with altitude sensor installed and working, but haven't figured out (or found search results) how to change to Fahrenheit. How'd you do that?
Congrats on finishing a pretty complicated install! The instructions for changing from deg-C to deg-F should be detailed in the manual for whichever thermostat controller you bought. If you don't have it you can always google "Espar Easy Start Select manual" or whatever version you have. I was able to find mine in a PDF online.
I've heard these diesel heaters are great . . . and would hate to ask a 'stupid' question.
But : Can you install them into a non-diesel vehicle by installing a tiny tank to hold diesel for this heater ?
kenetube, thanks for the very informative video. I'm wondering why you have the auxiliary battery setup and an additional lithium battery. Does the auxiliary serve any additional purpose? The reason for my question is I just put my order in for the new 2019 Sprinter (a change from the VW crafter), and I opted for no auxiliary battery.
Awesome video, saved me a ton of time figuring it out.
I just have one question,
what happens with the yellow wire coming out of the altitude sensor ?
the wiring diagram says it should also be connected to the head unit.(?)
Thanks
I looked back at the video and it looks like the yellow wire in the harness connects to the yellow in the high altitude sensor. Wiring diagram and my connections are shown at the 14 minute mark in the video. Is this consistent with your wiring?
I always thought that diesel heaters were good heat and economical why they are not used in more conversions I do not understand.
I know you added the Esper D2 last February, just wondering if you've you have used it enough to have an opinion about it's size and capacity? Also, did you order your Sprinter with the luggage rails or are you added those later?
Can you please post the number of the part at 17.00 min in the video? Thx
Nice Job! Can you tell me where to find the "grill" that you installed in the base of the passengers seat base (you removed the 2 clip access panel and replaced it with a grill at the end of this video) ?
Great video thanks for the info.
Just to check I know you mentioned that the connections to the aux battery was temporary but please tell me you fused the wire at the connection?
wow, your video makes it looks so easy and I want to install one of these in my Promaster campervan too. But I know there is a lot of hard work went into the installation. Thank you for sharing!
Have you ever considered the webasto diesel heater when you planned the installation? Have you done any comparison between the two brands?
Eli Dai webasto is just three times more money.
My Webasto heater has a knob that sets exact temperatures. I had it installed in my Sprinter about 4-5 months ago. I chose the "digital" thermostat. It cost a little more
Hi there! There are 4 wires hooking up to the battery. Did you use an inline fuse before attaching the wires to the battery. And which wires are attached to the positive terminal.
I don't have the auxiliary battery or solar installed yet. Any suggestions on how to power the Espar in the interim?
Congrats and BIG Thanks for your videos. In regards to the Espar; What unit did you get?; the Espar 2.2 KW or the 4 KW unit?. Thanks and keep the lights on for the rest of us.
Where is the air bag connector? I can't really find what I'm looking for on the forums...?
Excellent video and content. Thank you!
You are a Champ.. thank you Ken
great how to ! good workaround for not having a hole saw. keep making the videos. who did you buy your heater from?
I did the same install , I'm very good at wiring but found this install to be very intimidating but like you said after you do it once it would be a piece of cake to do it again.
Thank you for your video I gathered a lot of info from your video and others , I definetly couldn't have done it with out the help.
How did you change it from low , med , high , boost?
Thank you for taking the time.
Congrats on the install! The Espar figures out the correct mode to run. It's interesting how it works--when you first turn it on, the furnace runs at full speed to bring the van to temperature. Once it hits the set point the Espar picks the correct speed to keep the van to temperature. It does this by measuring the temperature of the intake air and the room temp and tries to run at the lowest speed possible without exceeding the set temp. If set temp is exceeded, it shuts down. It's smart because the constant stopping and restarting uses more energy as it needs the glow plug to relight.
Very well done! Thank you for helping me with your video!
Excellent stuff! thank you.
Another question regarding the Power cable aspect of the loom and the fuse box. My POWER cable part of the loom has four wires, seems identical to yours. Two larger gauge RED and Brown for power and ground. I have a BLUE SEA fuse box under my drivers seat so I assumed I could hook up those two wires to my fuse box and use a 20Amp fuse at that terminal on the fuse box. IS that in error? Then I am left with what to do with the smaller gauge wires (Red and Red/White). I have not used the supplied holder as I uncertain on how to do so. My manual only shows a two wire power cable as opposed to four. Can I somehow connect them though a fuse box or do I need to have them on separate fuse holder.
I see that you used the supplied fuse holder but that seems to be before you had added fuse boxes. You also seemed to have that under the passenger seat. I am confused as to where that would tie into my loom under passenger seat and I thought it would be better to have fuse closer to the power source. Did you alter any of your wiring once BlueSea fuse boxes were added?
Additional question, did you have to modify your exhaust location when you added electric step? My exhaust will terminate under sliding door and I figure i should plan ahead for the possible addition of the step.
Again, thank you. Your site is one of the most informative "how to" sites I have ever seen, across multiple disciplines.
Hi Charles, it's actually better to have the fuse located closer to the source...so yes, you can use that to fuse the wire to the Espar and then you won't need the fuse block supplied with the Espar. I recall two circuits, a 20 amp one for the glow plug start up and a 5 amp one to run the fan. It seems like you would need two runs of wires from your blue sea--a 20A one and a 5A one. Mine is still wired the way you saw in the video with no modification.
I did move my espar exhaust to the other side of the van. There is actually a very good, straight and level path if your van is 2wd. Perhaps you can email me (contact link at ourkaravan.com) and I'll send you a photo.
And thank you, I really appreciate the complements!
Ken
I live in Chicago, Illinois, where can I go to my place on my Mercedes Sprinter Van
Thanks for show !!!
I try looking it up on Amazon I cannot find it. Ford transit 2016
My instructions say ...."If a silencer is fitted, the exhaust end pipe must be much
shorter than the flexible exhaust pipe between the heater and
the exhaust silencer." Do you have this backwards? - Thanks Peter
hmmm... I see this too. time to rethink the exhaust layout.
great install looks like a really good heater !
Kenetube - Where did you get the replacement vent cover for the passenger seat base. Looks like a cool little detail to help provide airflow around the heater. Thanks for a great video!
kenetube Thanks, super helpful.
Good video. Thanks. I'm getting my 2014 ready for D2 install. In your video I didn't see a mention of the wiring that goes to the dosing pump. From what I can determine, it is the branch that only has two wires. My D2 kit came with two red wire leads that have crimped connectors on one end and I think these plug into the dosing pump and then connect to the two wire harness. Am I on the right track?
thanks. did you route the two wire harness along the same path as the fuel line since they're both going to the same place?
The exhaust gets quite warm on mine. Any issues with the factory undercoating around the exhaust?
No issues in 7 years of use.
Why the D2 and not the D5? Are you finding the D2 adequate in cold weather? How cold?
D2 is the most commonly used unit in a van. It puts out plenty of heat for my needs, but the coldest temps I experience are around 20 degrees F.
Great video and channel, definitely a new subscriber. Have you noticed any problem with condensation since you’re only taking combustion air from the outside, and not the cold air intake?
Thank you Kevin. My understanding is that since the combustion and exhaust occur outside the vehicle and only room air is drawn in and heated, if anything it should have a drying effect. I have had no issues with moisture.
Hi
Great videos! Your site is supper helpful, thanks. I’m building a Sprinter now and currently installing a d2 espar. I got the quick connection you used, but can’t figure out how you went direct from the quick connect to the black tubing without a second reduction in tub diameter. The fuel hose that fits the black hose seems too small to force onto the quick connection. Any comment would be appreciated. Thank chris
To
It was a couple of years now so I can't remember precisely how I did it, but you may want to think about heating up one of the sections of rubber hose and pushing it over something of about the same size as the quick connect to stretch it. That's assuming of course that it's at least close in size.
Well...I am at this stage now:) There are so many choices to purchase the Espar D2 from Heatso...which one did you purchase?
Excellent and informative video. I'm getting ready to install a D2 and this video is super helpful. Thank you!
Warning do not disconnect the wires to your seat it will set off an error code on the SRS airbag restraint system set only the dealer will be able to reset for $180 I have a specially-made computer testing tool and it could not reset the error code
My buddy made this mistake too but he was able to clear the code with his OBD scanner.
Did you ever have any problem with the exhaust air location and have to extend it to the back?
Very well done!
Any thought on the air intake inside the van needing a port vs from under the seat?
Just to clarify I would ask..if I buy the kit from Heatso it has a muffler that is included? Otherwise called the Exhaust silencer?
Where did you get the swivel adapters for your sprinter seats? Are you happy with them? Thanks JC
amazing work.! Thank you. So what is peak power. Continuous? I’m wiring from the house batteries from the back right of my van.
I believe the glow plug circuit has a 20 amp fuse, so that would be the max. But that is not a sustained current. The fan and metering pump average a couple of amps. Espar has the detailed specs on their website. Thanks for the complements!
Thanks for the great video. I am about to install my High Altitude Kit, and I am curious, did you bury it in the wall, or leave it exposed? the instructions say it can’t be in an “air-tight” location, and I am wondering if burying it behind the wall will create issues.
I did put mine in the wall behind the headliner. It's far from air tight as there are weep holes in the bottom of the body to allow water out, so there's no way for the wall to retain pressure (air) as you change altitude. Now I did not wrap it in insulation, it's between the insulation and the back side of the headliner.
Hello, I am currently installing a D2. All is going well be I have one question: the battery connection line has 4 wires: brown (ground), big red, small red, and small red/white. Are the small wires all + and need to be independently fused? Is the brown wire the only one that needs to be run to ground?
Thanks!
You'll have to confirm in the wiring diagram, but the thicker red is positive and connects the 20 amp fuse (this is the glow plug circuit), the smaller red is also positive and goes to the 5 amp fuse (for the fan motor), brown is ground and I believe the red/white is not used.
Where did you find your adapters to run from the larger fuel line to the smaller line? Having a hard time finding the right reducers. Thx
The reducer I used was part of the kit I bought. Wish I had more info for you.
Thanks for this. Much appreciated. I will be doing my Espar install this summer.
Hey, great video, very helpful. Are those factory swivel seats? I know the seat base is shorter with the factory swivel seats and I have been a little concerned about wether or not the espar would still fit under there. Thanks for your video and in advance for your response!
That's great news; we just ordered our 4x4 with factory swivels seats. Thanks again!
This is an awesome video, thanks for posting. It helped me to get almost all the way there. I was shipped a very different wiring harness that doesn't seem to be for this application. DO you happen to know the part number of the harness that you have? I'm dead in the water until I figure this part out.
Thanks
Bummer, The part number is on the cable by the large wiring harness clip that connects by the heater (@9:26).I tried to screen grab, but it's just too blurry. That is also where my harness splits three ways, then ultimately terminating to two on the end of the very long bundles. There is no way for it to be installed in any manner that I can think of...and Heatso.com is playing dumb with the parts, that's also where I ordered. It's super frustrating. If I can find the part number that you have for your harness, I'll just order it and be done. The build is at a hold out while I try and sort this electrical nightmare.
Thanks again for the help!
Hello, I was looking at the Espar B4L M2 model for a Ford Transit, it says it works at high altitude out of the box with no adjustments. Have you heard about the new model?
At the checkout and there's no place for your coupon code, was that just for the model you installed? Thanks for all the help and great video.
Yes, the newer models have the HA sensor built in. The coupon code is good for D4R D4L and D2L, as well as the older style D2, B4, D4, D4L. Unfortunately I'm not sure the one you mentioned qualifies for the discount. You can email heatso and ask, perhaps they'll honor the code?
Ken, any issues with diesel exhaust? I know one person that routed the exhaust to the driver side
The installation of the heater in this sprinter video and numerous others on TH-cam are wrong. Heater should not be installed heated end down. Heat end of unit must be either level or upwards. The unit will overheat itself. Its clearly shown in instructions of these heaters
You’ll find that Mercedes uses this exact location on some overseas models. I’m at nearly five years now with not a single issue, along with tens of thousands of other people running theirs in the exact same location.
Very informative video. Did you put drain hole at the lowest point of the exhaust pipe as indicated in the install manual?
I did not, but probably should.
Great video. Question - have you heard of this heater overheating when located under the seat? There is a espar sealer in denver and they WILL NOT install them under the seat because they said they overheat constantly in that location. Any thoughts? I’m not sure where to install mine but I want it under the seat.
Thx. I might just need to find another person to install it under the seat.
Did you purchase a mounting bracket? Does the thermostat work without the external temperature sensor? Thank you for the great vids Ken, I have been using your amazon links. Hope it helps you out.
kenetube Great thanks so much!