Thanks Darth; interesting conversion. Indeed the brush springs MUST not carry the traction (sometimes stall) current as they can overheat and lose temper. As I keep suggesting: endurance test running in both directions to ensure the motor does not overheat. Now we have two graphite brushes, the knotty problems of motor disassembly for commutator cleaning, and possible remagnetisation confuse the field. Thanks Darth: good video.
Thanks! The motors have been running more efficiently for me, and the commutators are staying cleaner since the new brushes are a harder grade of graphite. They're more slick than the old carbon+metal brushes and carry electrical current very well without leaving heavy carbon buildup like the older brush material.
@@DarthSantaFe Wonderful. Just to remove any remaining doubt as to what my state of mind(less) is, I am looking into bringing an E8 up to better running spec. A lot of research is necessary as these mechanisms have some weak points that might defy solution short of total re-design and rebuild. Long term project. It is not necessary to be wealthy to have a really good model railway, and this way is, to most, more satisfying. For those interested, Mr Snooze Utube channel is a great place to 'waste' time. Hopefully 'varrunningtrains... will update us on progress. We are supposed to be a community. Best Wishes
Brushes are too often overlooked on models. The gain in replacing them is always surprising. Love the sound that the Krauss Maffei makes now, almost better than dcc!
great idea thanks for the tip, never worked on these motors as i only have atlas,athearn,bachman and IHC units atm. but acquired several Riva steam locos recently and want to know exactly this.......cheers!
I watched your video and gave it shot. I'm always having trouble with Rivarossi motors getting started. Brushes arc a lot until warmed up. So I filed down a set of Athearn brushes as you showed for my Rivarossi steamer. It worked out great but there just has to be a better method for turning down the brush diameter. I've been building HO steamer kits since I'm 14 because I couldn't afford the ready to runs. I'm now 69 and build, repair and restore trains everyday. I find you to be a very creative craftsman with many great ideas. Thanks for your videos, Keith
I'm glad the video helped! I thought of mounting them in a Dremel to turn them down like a lathe, but wasn't too sure about how they would hold up since the material is brittle. There might also be other brushes that fit better, but the Athearns are easier to get.
Like the brush replacement fix.! I had a few Athearn gold motors that just didn't seem to run as good as others even after a clean and lube and tried a new set of brushes even though the old ones were not worn out and the new brushes fixed the problem just from the new material they used . Great idea/find for the old Riverossi motors.
the rivarossi motor shield looks a bit reminiscent of older märklin stuff ... perhaps their replacement brushes will fit? (just a guess). your videos are very informative and fun to watch! keep up the good work! 👌
Haven't tried those, but they might work! The original Rivarossi motor design was based on Trix motors from the 40's, and I don't think they ever changed the brush diameter or material for any of the later versions before outsourcing to can motors from other manufacturers.
That's neat. I'd like to find a way to do that for old Mehano (RSO) motors, the brushes and springs are usually junk but they are really tiny. In two engines I just used a can motor.
I was at a train show in Ohio over the weekend, and one dealer had BAGS of old Rivarossi motors from every type of locomotive made. He had them all priced a $5.00 a piece.
I usually use regular black for steam engines, so there are plenty of good sources for that. If I'm using a spray can, I'll usually get Krylon (NOT Rustoleum) from a hardware store since it dries thin and has a nice finish when used right. If I'm airbrushing, most good brands of model paint such as Testors/Model Master, Tamiya, Tru-Color or Scalecoat (hopefully back in business soon) can be thinned to spray on just right. Most hobby stores should have at least one of those.
Thanks Darth; interesting conversion. Indeed the brush springs MUST not carry the traction (sometimes stall) current as they can overheat and lose temper. As I keep suggesting: endurance test running in both directions to ensure the motor does not overheat.
Now we have two graphite brushes, the knotty problems of motor disassembly for commutator cleaning, and possible remagnetisation confuse the field.
Thanks Darth: good video.
Thanks! The motors have been running more efficiently for me, and the commutators are staying cleaner since the new brushes are a harder grade of graphite. They're more slick than the old carbon+metal brushes and carry electrical current very well without leaving heavy carbon buildup like the older brush material.
@@DarthSantaFe Wonderful. Just to remove any remaining doubt as to what my state of mind(less) is, I am looking into bringing an E8 up to better running spec. A lot of research is necessary as these mechanisms have some weak points that might defy solution short of total re-design and rebuild. Long term project.
It is not necessary to be wealthy to have a really good model railway, and this way is, to most, more satisfying.
For those interested, Mr Snooze Utube channel is a great place to 'waste' time.
Hopefully 'varrunningtrains... will update us on progress. We are supposed to be a community.
Best Wishes
Always enjoy the Rivarossi videos...
This is exactly the video that I needed, as I got myself one of those Mafet loco off Ebay. Thank you for all your work, and sharing with all of us.
Brushes are too often overlooked on models. The gain in replacing them is always surprising. Love the sound that the Krauss Maffei makes now, almost better than dcc!
Nice video! This is an interesting upgrade I have not thought about before. Will have to give it a try on some rivarossi engines!
Just did this on a river Rossi big boy there’s a huge difference now
great idea thanks for the tip, never worked on these motors as i only have atlas,athearn,bachman and IHC units atm. but acquired several Riva steam locos recently and want to know exactly this.......cheers!
I watched your video and gave it shot. I'm always having trouble with Rivarossi motors getting started. Brushes arc a lot until warmed up. So I filed down a set of Athearn brushes as you showed for my Rivarossi steamer. It worked out great but there just has to be a better method for turning down the brush diameter. I've been building HO steamer kits since I'm 14 because I couldn't afford the ready to runs. I'm now 69 and build, repair and restore trains everyday. I find you to be a very creative craftsman with many great ideas. Thanks for your videos, Keith
I'm glad the video helped! I thought of mounting them in a Dremel to turn them down like a lathe, but wasn't too sure about how they would hold up since the material is brittle. There might also be other brushes that fit better, but the Athearns are easier to get.
I have a set of slot car brushes on the way. I let you know how I make out. All I know is the Rivarossi brushes are horrible. Thanks. @@DarthSantaFe
Like the brush replacement fix.! I had a few Athearn gold motors that just didn't seem to run as good as others even after a clean and lube and tried a new set of brushes even though the old ones were not worn out and the new brushes fixed the problem just from the new material they used . Great idea/find for the old Riverossi motors.
the rivarossi motor shield looks a bit reminiscent of older märklin stuff ... perhaps their replacement brushes will fit? (just a guess). your videos are very informative and fun to watch! keep up the good work! 👌
Haven't tried those, but they might work! The original Rivarossi motor design was based on Trix motors from the 40's, and I don't think they ever changed the brush diameter or material for any of the later versions before outsourcing to can motors from other manufacturers.
Shout out to Darth for the brush upgrade that SMT Mainline used in his recent video! Take care, Jeff.
This explains why my little j.k. Bowker was sparking like crazy
I’ve used some blue box brushes in old life like and Bachmann stuff too, definitely makes a huge difference in performance!
I had too do a filed down brush on a LIMA N SCALE PANCAKE MOTOR 😮 HARD TOO DO BUT WORKED ,
You are still a mad scientist sir. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for this, an often overlooked subject.
You are hard-core! Filing brushes down 😂
That's neat. I'd like to find a way to do that for old Mehano (RSO) motors, the brushes and springs are usually junk but they are really tiny. In two engines I just used a can motor.
It should be possible! Just make sure to file the brushes down to the proper shape and I think it’ll all work fine.
Nice btw I saw on I believe your banner that you have what looks like a Union Pacific 0-6-0
Yes, that’s a brass PFM/United UP 0-6-0 that I fixed and painted a few years back. Turned out great!
@@DarthSantaFe ooo I would love to see a video on it when you get the chance
@@bdvids7930 I do eventually want to do a brass showcase video, so that is one that I’d have in there when I get around to it!
@@DarthSantaFe ooo ok can’t wait
I was at a train show in Ohio over the weekend, and one dealer had BAGS of old Rivarossi motors from every type of locomotive made. He had them all priced a $5.00 a piece.
Wow, that's quite the find! I wonder if those were old stock or if they were pulled from repowers?
@@DarthSantaFe They were definitely used. I only bought (1).
Where did you get the new brushes? is there a company that makes them?
Edit: ah okay you used Athearn brushes
How does he ever do it .....
I think “I wonder if this will work?” and then try it. Sometimes the results are good, and other times I’ve messed things up, but that’s how I learn!
@@DarthSantaFe Would you consider a video showing failed attempts along with the attempt that worked?
@@kge420 Sometimes I include that as part of a whole video, but only when it's caught on camera.
Love it I want to do it on my rivarossi big boy but where do you get these I can’t find them anywhere 😢
Athearn carries them directly or through Horizon. There are also some stores that carry them. The part number is ATH90037.
thanks
Darth I have question to ask you. Where can I get black steam locomotive spray paint? Keith
I usually use regular black for steam engines, so there are plenty of good sources for that. If I'm using a spray can, I'll usually get Krylon (NOT Rustoleum) from a hardware store since it dries thin and has a nice finish when used right. If I'm airbrushing, most good brands of model paint such as Testors/Model Master, Tamiya, Tru-Color or Scalecoat (hopefully back in business soon) can be thinned to spray on just right. Most hobby stores should have at least one of those.