They way a I see it, if it can happen to me, it can happen to you, and if I can help figure out a way around it without the solution being to complex then that should help all of us! 👍Thanks for the comment and for taking the time for watching the video. More videos to come!
Thank you very much for the comment. I know there are those who do this for a living that think my process is a bit overkill and long, but unlike them, I'm never in a rush when doing these jobs. It's the only bleed process for a reservoir type shock that gives me the confidence in knowing that I've successfully bled it. Not making a total mess in the process is bonus 👍
Many thanks for a great video! It is really helpful! I just want to add here for other viewers that if you only do/watch the 50-hour service (like myself), have a look at the o-ring installation at 48:24. So you don’t have to wonder why you have an o-ring left when the 50-hour steps are complete.
I appreciate your kind words and insightful comment. You're absolutely right. It's something that's always bothered me when making FOX shock service videos. I try to mention that this particular seal is also in the 50-hour kit, but it's definitely missing from the 50-hour service sections of the videos. I could either replace the seal twice while filming or make separate 50-hour service videos. Let me know what you think!
@@zoubtube It would be great if you replaced it twice, just to also show it in the 50h sections. I guess the 50h sections could then also be combined in a separate video. :) Again, many thanks for a great video!
I'm SO behind on responding to comments. As always, thanks for the support. Glad to hear this video might come in handy, and more fork and shock videos to come 👍
Love your detailed suspension videos on your channel and subscribed! IMO Fox is not home mechanic friendly as Rockshox because they use a lot of expensive proprietary tools. For example, the air fill adapters, pin spanner tool, vacuum/machine fill tool are different based on shock model (Float X vs Float X2), and model year. Fox should standardize the tools as much as possible. RS uses the same IFP adapter across Monarch (inline) and Super Deluxe (piggyback) and their tools are affordable. RS's instructions are also better, they publish shim stack tuning in easy to read and use format whereas Fox buries the info in their service procedures site. Thus have been slowly replacing Fox with RS when purchasing aftermarket. Anyone have any luck trying adjustable angle grinder removal tool instead of pin spanner tool? Another possibility is using adjustable wrench and drilling two holes to insert screws. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the thoughtful comment. Afaik, Fox is a tools company that happens to make forks and shocks! 😉 Just a fyi, if you happen to have a Harbor Freight near you, they sell an adjustable spanner for like $4. more than solid enough for these jobs 👍
Muy buen vídeo Zou! Yo también tengo ese amortiguador en mi Specialized, estoy muy contento con su funcionamiento, veremos si soy capaz de hacerle yo el mantenimiento cuando le toque......gracias desde España!
Muchas gracias por el comentario. Me alegra saber que el vídeo te resultó útil. Estoy seguro de que podrá reparar su shock. tómate tu tiempo y todo irá bien. Déjame saber si tienes preguntas y haré todo lo posible para ayudarte.
I have that exact shock on my bike so very greatful for this. Definitely saving this video because my shock(and fork) also need some TLC. I have one thing to say about that shock though that bothered me in the beginning simply because I did not know, and that goes for how you are supposed to read the clicks(or lack there of on the dials) The rebound dial has very defined clicks which is all well and good. However, for some reason Fox decided to add 1 extra click before fully close and 2 extra clicks after fully open. The clicks are as defined as all the others so it's no half clicks or anything like that, which makes me pretty frustrated how that passed quality control. Then you have to know that the number 2 on the dial is 0 and 12 is 10. Then we move over to the compression dial which have no defined clicks and where the number 0 is 0(fully close) and 10 is 10(Fully open). Both dials should work exactly the same in my mind to remove confusion simply because this is not exactly information you can find in a manual. For all I know they have this nonsense on other shocks as well which wouldn't surprise me.
My apologies for the delayed response, but I'm really behind on responding to comments. I'm glad to hear that this video might come in handy for you. I get where you're coming from. Why Fox insists on counting clicks from the full lock positions is beyond me. It never made sense to me when considering that ALL controls need to be set to the fully open position before serving a shock or fork. You would think the fully open position would be 0 and then the clicks would start from there. Ultimately, I know that "technically," low-speed rebound and compression should be counted from close, and the high speed of each should be counted from open, but I count the clicks until the dial reaches the full position, and write down the settings to put them back where they were. In the worst-case scenario, I'll be one click off after a rebuild, which is an easy fix I don't know, maybe I'm just getting old and stubborn! 😁
Hey just curious if you don't ride particularly hard on the yearly maintain work do you think you can get away with just doing the 50 hour service? If its still nice and smooth and doesn't make a noise? What do you think?
good question. In my opinion, regular 50-hour service is more crucial than annual damper service (except for the FOX X2, which is great and all but it's also big time unpredictable), unless your damper is making noise or is not responding as expected. Also, the 50-hour interval is a guideline; you might be able to go longer or shorter depending on riding conditions. Consistent 50-hour maintenance also means you don't need to replace seals every time. This is the advantage of regular air can or lower leg service: your suspension will consistently feel great, requiring only a small investment of grease, oil, and time, and everything will last longer. It really is a win-win 👍
So good I found your extensive service and bleeding procedure. Thanks a ton for that! I'm about to change the lockout shim stack in order to obtain a firm setting. Since I don't have the tool in minute 3:00/17:30 I've read from somewhere else that you can instead use a simple crescent wrench instead. One more idea at minute 1:18:10. What if you at this point simply apply the empty damper body and then fill it with a syringe and a needle through the bleed port? Edit: Btw. the ifp valve air adapter from Fox is crazy expensive! But from what I've found is that the RS equivalent is supposed to be compatible (though you might have to swap the o-ring with the one that comes with the valve cover lid.
Thanks for the comments and the kinds words myman! 🙂 "I've read from somewhere else that you can instead use a simple crescent wrench instead". A crescent wrench won't be suitable for removing this. You'll need an adjustable spanner wrench at a minimum. However, exercise caution, as it could potentially slip and scratch the damper body. If anyone mentions channel locks, I strongly advise against using them, as they're likely to damage the component below is a link to a more affordable alternative to the Fox tool. I've personally used it several times, and it's been very reliable. The Float X is a great shock. If you plan to keep it for a significant period, investing in the tool could be worthwhile to simplify maintenance. www.ebay.com/itm/395188092928?_skw=398-00-558&itmmeta=01JA71RP2Y9TMDK6SHXVHQ988B&hash=item5c030bc000:g:VJEAAOSwAl1l1y7Z&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmOFUu7mGrO2tJp3ZJGKfvsLLXYWh3dBqtcKoDk%2BKTP6JN26%2BR63taHUbB6AEMCYWTqQHa7132JdPYop1t8CYn05mDTj2tzN6eWdZJpnL3E9EGhEOrcc%2Bq9Bi7cCcJJvUZKFuPeBoGTxoXCqJzQsY1Kln08bI1G7Pxvuj8rGavE29GRgJ3gvmhv6deXGD8S34KpJumTP%2B2m2kMhFjy4I2FjsjHrAGgD35aiwYWp5iPx0sD3JgWcwYLJdEt76Ip7sc687PWkiFnUpYf2hIGXFmCK%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8jh4uHRZA "One more idea at minute 1:18:10. What if you at this point simply apply the empty damper body and then fill it with a syringe and a needle through the bleed port? In my next float X video, I plan on showing something VERY similar to what you're mentioning. It will work, but there are a couple of details that need attention in order to make it effective "from what I've found is that the RS equivalent is supposed to be compatible" The rockshox or similar adapters will work just fine on the fox shocks. I've used them multiple times. I just wish ALL Fox shocks had valves 😉 Hopefully some of this helps Thanks again
@@zoubtube Cool! I'm excited to watch your video about the updated bleeding procedure! Any idea when it will be published? Then I might wait with the service. Regarding the tool I still think it could be done with a crescent wrench - IF the "bearing housing assy" is "812-06-107-KIT" (like the one in your video) and not "812-06-108-KIT" (low clearance). The protruding "X" with the threads (for the travel spacer cap) and the holes for the special tool, should be able to be clamped with a crescent wrench. Don't you think so?
It's going to need to be a large crescent wrench in order to get a good purchase on it. It's a soft, slippery metal, so be careful. You might want to put plastic or rubber in between the wrench and the housing. It might help with grip and with lowering any potential damage. I can't say for sure about the timing of a float X video. I have other videos I still need to edit and parts I need to get to. This month is our fiscal year-end at work, and it's always super demanding, so I'm behind on personal stuff. We'll get there
@@zoubtube All right. So I finally bled my Float X. The adjustable spanner wrench did a great job unscrewing. I covered it with duct tape to avoid scratches. I think the special tool is only needed for the version with the least travel. 1. Before bleeding I did already attach the lower body (see minute 1:23:50) with open bleed port. 2. Then I attached a syringe to the ifp bleed port and filled the whole shock from there. I cycled the shock for a bit including pulling the syringe having a bit of oil on top of the ifp in order to avoid pulling air from the outside. 3. After that I closed the ifp and attached a syringe to damper body and continued cycling including pushing the ifp back. 4. With the ifp deep in the reservoir I opened the ifp port again to release more air from there by continuing with the cycle process. With this procedure I was able to bleed the shock without mess.
great video. question - is *any* noise after the damper service normal? I just finished and can hear a slight noise at the very end of the rebound stroke. compression / rebound all functions normally. should I try the bleed one more time to make it dead silent?
Thanks for the kind words. It all depends on the noise (I'm really thinking of making a video that only talks about different types of noise). All dampers are going to make some kind of noise. The noises that you don't want to hear here are slushy, squishy sounds. If you hear sounds that are quick and very faint (example, shims moving), then it's not an issue. The glide ring, or shaft rubbing on the seal head, etc, will make sounds, but these are pretty distinguishable. Air moving through the system will make a different noise. It mostly tends to be louder. Hopefully this helps a bit. It is somewhat challenging to describe the sounds using a keyboard.
Thank you very much for the comment. If I come across one I'll try but two thing to note: Ohlins are very rare here in SE MI (99% of the market here is dominated by fox and rockshox forks and shocks) and the bigger issue is last I checked they don't post their torque specs, which imo is needed. I'll see what I can do as your not the only one asking, but chances are it won't be until end of season
You got some strong hands it looks like. At 1:34:51, how hard was it pull the damper up? Do you think a lot people will have the strength to do that? Is there an easier way?
It's normally not hard to cycle the damper body when bleeding. This one was definitely stiffer than any other I've done. I'm not sure why. I thought the rebound was closed at first, but it wasn't. The chances are super high that you won't run into this issue.
My sincere apologies for the delayed response. I'm way behind on responding to comments. I believe you asking about the pin spanner tool. the link is below, if not let me know. but best to start a new comment as replies to my replies aren't easily visible to me. Thanks www.ebay.com/itm/251968579948
Hi, great tutorial! Really clear. Can you tell me the diameter of the pin of the pin spanner wrench? I'm looking for a cheaper solution... Do you know if it is possible to use a more common tool? Thank you :) ps: I can't find videos on the fox dhx factory service (the new from 2022), it would be awesome if you could put your hand on one of them!
Great vid! I followed this to rebuild my fox float x performance with the specialized Rx Trail tune. My shock performs much better. However, my firm lever swing loosely. I know the set screw is set properly. What could be the problem?
Thanks for the comment. does the let lever work at all? Do you feel a firmness when moving it to the firm position? If not, and you are certain that the lever is securely tightened to the camshaft, then the lever cam is not connecting the piston rod, as seen in 1:03:8 portion of the video. Let me know if it gets firm when moving the lever to the firm position.
@@zoubtube Greetings from Greece. Same issue with my lever. But I am sure that the lever was not functional in the firm position before the service and it did not bother me. Are there noticeable clicks on each position? I never felt anything in mine. I also notice that there in no seal on the cap with the 2 screws. How is it possible to have oil under pressure without leaking? And of course thank you for the amazing videos!
@@mallias2683 ela re! to ptoto servis ke ta ekanes ola skata kiolas! 🤣🤣 I love the Greek language. A true testament to human ingenuity, which has perfected the art of using the word shit in every possible context. It's amazing what 5000+ years of linguistic development can achieve. 😉 When flipping the lever side to side, it should have a bit of a snap feel to it, nothing dramatic though, just a small clip sound. Sometimes they can feel a bit loose, other times more snappy. What really matters is that it works when flipping it back and forth. open/firm. When I say firm, I don't mean full lockout. It's just going to feel firm on harder impacts. The seals are on the reservoir piston, as can be seen at the 1:00:28 mark. They block the holes that lead to the cam. If it was leaking, you would know it. The pressure in the shock will force oil out of the smallest leak. Do you see any oil? Does the shock get firm when in firm mode. Let me know. tora eínai arga, perase i ora. pow yia eva kalo hesimo, kai meta amesos yia epno! 😁 ade yia!
Great work…My shock sounds like that for the first 3 or 4 strokes then it’s silent. It has been sat for a while, will it be the same issue or just needs the oil to heat up a bit? Thanks.
Good question. If the noise is originating from the air can, it's the result of pressure equalization between the positive and negative chambers. However, if the noise is emanating from the damper body, it's likely due to air ingress into the oil via the IFP. This can lead to audible air cavitation as it passes through the valving. A simple bleed procedure will solve this without having to rebuild the shock if the seals are still in good condition. I hope this helps and thank for the comment
Mate - some great video) Only thing I want to know is how to remove compression lnob🤣🤣. Mine needs some grease , I can’t feel klicks. But you said there is literally no reason to remove yours🤣🤣🤣. Any advice? Thanks !
Apologies for the delayed response. Damn dude, now I REALLY regret not going over this in the video. The Knob pops off. There are four small springs and balls under it, which you can lose. Putting them back can be a PITA. I'll make a video on just working on this part. I'll try and get it done soon
Thanks for the compliment. The syringe in the video is a regular SRAM brake bleed syringe. Low cost aftermarket versions can be found on Amazon. Just make sure NOT to use the syringe for both bleeding DOT fluid brakes and servicing your shock unless you are absolutely sure the syringe is free of any DOT fluid in it
Sorry for the delayed reply; I was out of the office. The block shown is a RockShox Reverb block. While it's very useful, the price has more than doubled since I bought mine. If the cost is prohibitive (and I wouldn't blame you if it is), search online for "Reverb vice block" for more affordable alternatives. There are a few to pick from these days. www.amazon.com/RockShox-Reverb-Vice-Blocks/dp/B083QMY9NT
@@noahbigelow5691 Sorry for the delayed reply; I was out of the office. The block shown is a RockShox Reverb block. While it's very useful, the price has more than doubled since I bought mine. If the cost is prohibitive (and I wouldn't blame you if it is), search online for "Reverb vice block" for more affordable alternatives. There are a few to pick from these days. www.amazon.com/RockShox-Reverb-Vice-Blocks/dp/B083QMY9NT
I have a set of snapon techangle torque wrenches. They are super precise but overkill for this application (technically, they are built for the aircraft industry). I bought them a long time ago for a completely different purpose, but I use them on everything. I don't recommend people buy them unless they work on precision products like engines, etc. There are other solutions out there for much less money that will get you similar precision these days, which is a really great thing
I have a set of snapon techangle torque wrenches. I bought them a long time ago for a different purpose, but since I have them I use them when needed. they are very precise, and can be sent to snapon in order to recalibrate them. They are total overkill for this purpose though, and I don't recommend people buy them for working on bikes. Today, we have many options that will provide very similar results as these snapons for MUCH less, which is a great thing IMO
Apologies for the delayed response. My dad was a mechanic and encouraged me to learn how to rebuild stuff from a very young age. As for bike shocks and forks, they really aren't difficult to service (I guess that's relative, when compared to rebuilding a 1000cc 4-stroke engine with shim under bucket valves, rebuilding bike shocks and forks is easy). Unlike the old days, most bike suspension manufacturers provide the specs for assembly, which is needed to make sure the correct torque specs are used. I fundamentally believe that the vast majority of people can service them once they get over the small hump of intimidation. Hopefully, these videos will help some folks get over that hump with more confidence. 👍
@@Manetty6 Yup! I've never worked in the bike industry outside of helping those in my area, which I've been doing for many years. But the guides take a lot of the guess work out when rebuilding a product the first time 👍
Love the fact that you include all the things that can go wrong and how to overcome it (glider ring) brilliant!
They way a I see it, if it can happen to me, it can happen to you, and if I can help figure out a way around it without the solution being to complex then that should help all of us! 👍Thanks for the comment and for taking the time for watching the video. More videos to come!
I Got to say that this is one of the best service videos I've seen!!! good job 👍👍👍 Actually watched the whole thing.
Thank you very much for the kind words and for the support. Hopefully some of these videos will come in handy one day. More videos to come 👍
Good to see you posting content. I prefer your videos and bleed process over many others that I've tried
Thank you very much for the comment. I know there are those who do this for a living that think my process is a bit overkill and long, but unlike them, I'm never in a rush when doing these jobs. It's the only bleed process for a reservoir type shock that gives me the confidence in knowing that I've successfully bled it. Not making a total mess in the process is bonus 👍
Many thanks for a great video! It is really helpful!
I just want to add here for other viewers that if you only do/watch the 50-hour service (like myself), have a look at the o-ring installation at 48:24. So you don’t have to wonder why you have an o-ring left when the 50-hour steps are complete.
I appreciate your kind words and insightful comment. You're absolutely right. It's something that's always bothered me when making FOX shock service videos. I try to mention that this particular seal is also in the 50-hour kit, but it's definitely missing from the 50-hour service sections of the videos. I could either replace the seal twice while filming or make separate 50-hour service videos. Let me know what you think!
@@zoubtube It would be great if you replaced it twice, just to also show it in the 50h sections. I guess the 50h sections could then also be combined in a separate video. :) Again, many thanks for a great video!
Great video as always. Another video to add to my MTB Service Playlist :-)
I'm SO behind on responding to comments. As always, thanks for the support. Glad to hear this video might come in handy, and more fork and shock videos to come 👍
Love your detailed suspension videos on your channel and subscribed! IMO Fox is not home mechanic friendly as Rockshox because they use a lot of expensive proprietary tools. For example, the air fill adapters, pin spanner tool, vacuum/machine fill tool are different based on shock model (Float X vs Float X2), and model year. Fox should standardize the tools as much as possible. RS uses the same IFP adapter across Monarch (inline) and Super Deluxe (piggyback) and their tools are affordable. RS's instructions are also better, they publish shim stack tuning in easy to read and use format whereas Fox buries the info in their service procedures site.
Thus have been slowly replacing Fox with RS when purchasing aftermarket.
Anyone have any luck trying adjustable angle grinder removal tool instead of pin spanner tool? Another possibility is using adjustable wrench and drilling two holes to insert screws.
Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the thoughtful comment. Afaik, Fox is a tools company that happens to make forks and shocks! 😉
Just a fyi, if you happen to have a Harbor Freight near you, they sell an adjustable spanner for like $4. more than solid enough for these jobs 👍
Muy buen vídeo Zou! Yo también tengo ese amortiguador en mi Specialized, estoy muy contento con su funcionamiento, veremos si soy capaz de hacerle yo el mantenimiento cuando le toque......gracias desde España!
Muchas gracias por el comentario. Me alegra saber que el vídeo te resultó útil. Estoy seguro de que podrá reparar su shock. tómate tu tiempo y todo irá bien. Déjame saber si tienes preguntas y haré todo lo posible para ayudarte.
Excellent vid. A tip: I took a 15mm socket to the bench grinder to make it chamfer-less.
Great tip for the community. 👍 thanks
I have that exact shock on my bike so very greatful for this. Definitely saving this video because my shock(and fork) also need some TLC.
I have one thing to say about that shock though that bothered me in the beginning simply because I did not know, and that goes for how you are supposed to read the clicks(or lack there of on the dials) The rebound dial has very defined clicks which is all well and good. However, for some reason Fox decided to add 1 extra click before fully close and 2 extra clicks after fully open. The clicks are as defined as all the others so it's no half clicks or anything like that, which makes me pretty frustrated how that passed quality control. Then you have to know that the number 2 on the dial is 0 and 12 is 10.
Then we move over to the compression dial which have no defined clicks and where the number 0 is 0(fully close) and 10 is 10(Fully open).
Both dials should work exactly the same in my mind to remove confusion simply because this is not exactly information you can find in a manual. For all I know they have this nonsense on other shocks as well which wouldn't surprise me.
My apologies for the delayed response, but I'm really behind on responding to comments. I'm glad to hear that this video might come in handy for you. I get where you're coming from. Why Fox insists on counting clicks from the full lock positions is beyond me. It never made sense to me when considering that ALL controls need to be set to the fully open position before serving a shock or fork. You would think the fully open position would be 0 and then the clicks would start from there.
Ultimately, I know that "technically," low-speed rebound and compression should be counted from close, and the high speed of each should be counted from open, but I count the clicks until the dial reaches the full position, and write down the settings to put them back where they were. In the worst-case scenario, I'll be one click off after a rebuild, which is an easy fix
I don't know, maybe I'm just getting old and stubborn! 😁
Hey just curious if you don't ride particularly hard on the yearly maintain work do you think you can get away with just doing the 50 hour service? If its still nice and smooth and doesn't make a noise? What do you think?
good question. In my opinion, regular 50-hour service is more crucial than annual damper service (except for the FOX X2, which is great and all but it's also big time unpredictable), unless your damper is making noise or is not responding as expected. Also, the 50-hour interval is a guideline; you might be able to go longer or shorter depending on riding conditions. Consistent 50-hour maintenance also means you don't need to replace seals every time. This is the advantage of regular air can or lower leg service: your suspension will consistently feel great, requiring only a small investment of grease, oil, and time, and everything will last longer. It really is a win-win 👍
So good I found your extensive service and bleeding procedure. Thanks a ton for that! I'm about to change the lockout shim stack in order to obtain a firm setting. Since I don't have the tool in minute 3:00/17:30 I've read from somewhere else that you can instead use a simple crescent wrench instead.
One more idea at minute 1:18:10. What if you at this point simply apply the empty damper body and then fill it with a syringe and a needle through the bleed port?
Edit: Btw. the ifp valve air adapter from Fox is crazy expensive! But from what I've found is that the RS equivalent is supposed to be compatible (though you might have to swap the o-ring with the one that comes with the valve cover lid.
Thanks for the comments and the kinds words myman! 🙂
"I've read from somewhere else that you can instead use a simple crescent wrench instead".
A crescent wrench won't be suitable for removing this. You'll need an adjustable spanner wrench at a minimum. However, exercise caution, as it could potentially slip and scratch the damper body. If anyone mentions channel locks, I strongly advise against using them, as they're likely to damage the component
below is a link to a more affordable alternative to the Fox tool. I've personally used it several times, and it's been very reliable. The Float X is a great shock. If you plan to keep it for a significant period, investing in the tool could be worthwhile to simplify maintenance.
www.ebay.com/itm/395188092928?_skw=398-00-558&itmmeta=01JA71RP2Y9TMDK6SHXVHQ988B&hash=item5c030bc000:g:VJEAAOSwAl1l1y7Z&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmOFUu7mGrO2tJp3ZJGKfvsLLXYWh3dBqtcKoDk%2BKTP6JN26%2BR63taHUbB6AEMCYWTqQHa7132JdPYop1t8CYn05mDTj2tzN6eWdZJpnL3E9EGhEOrcc%2Bq9Bi7cCcJJvUZKFuPeBoGTxoXCqJzQsY1Kln08bI1G7Pxvuj8rGavE29GRgJ3gvmhv6deXGD8S34KpJumTP%2B2m2kMhFjy4I2FjsjHrAGgD35aiwYWp5iPx0sD3JgWcwYLJdEt76Ip7sc687PWkiFnUpYf2hIGXFmCK%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8jh4uHRZA
"One more idea at minute 1:18:10. What if you at this point simply apply the empty damper body and then fill it with a syringe and a needle through the bleed port?
In my next float X video, I plan on showing something VERY similar to what you're mentioning. It will work, but there are a couple of details that need attention in order to make it effective
"from what I've found is that the RS equivalent is supposed to be compatible"
The rockshox or similar adapters will work just fine on the fox shocks. I've used them multiple times. I just wish ALL Fox shocks had valves 😉
Hopefully some of this helps
Thanks again
@@zoubtube Cool! I'm excited to watch your video about the updated bleeding procedure! Any idea when it will be published? Then I might wait with the service.
Regarding the tool I still think it could be done with a crescent wrench - IF the "bearing housing assy" is "812-06-107-KIT" (like the one in your video) and not "812-06-108-KIT" (low clearance). The protruding "X" with the threads (for the travel spacer cap) and the holes for the special tool, should be able to be clamped with a crescent wrench. Don't you think so?
It's going to need to be a large crescent wrench in order to get a good purchase on it. It's a soft, slippery metal, so be careful. You might want to put plastic or rubber in between the wrench and the housing. It might help with grip and with lowering any potential damage.
I can't say for sure about the timing of a float X video. I have other videos I still need to edit and parts I need to get to. This month is our fiscal year-end at work, and it's always super demanding, so I'm behind on personal stuff. We'll get there
@@zoubtube Thanks for the advise. I will report back when I've tried it with an adjustable wrench with plastic in between.
@@zoubtube All right. So I finally bled my Float X. The adjustable spanner wrench did a great job unscrewing. I covered it with duct tape to avoid scratches. I think the special tool is only needed for the version with the least travel.
1. Before bleeding I did already attach the lower body (see minute 1:23:50) with open bleed port.
2. Then I attached a syringe to the ifp bleed port and filled the whole shock from there. I cycled the shock for a bit including pulling the syringe having a bit of oil on top of the ifp in order to avoid pulling air from the outside.
3. After that I closed the ifp and attached a syringe to damper body and continued cycling including pushing the ifp back.
4. With the ifp deep in the reservoir I opened the ifp port again to release more air from there by continuing with the cycle process.
With this procedure I was able to bleed the shock without mess.
great video. question - is *any* noise after the damper service normal? I just finished and can hear a slight noise at the very end of the rebound stroke. compression / rebound all functions normally. should I try the bleed one more time to make it dead silent?
Thanks for the kind words. It all depends on the noise (I'm really thinking of making a video that only talks about different types of noise).
All dampers are going to make some kind of noise. The noises that you don't want to hear here are slushy, squishy sounds. If you hear sounds that are quick and very faint (example, shims moving), then it's not an issue. The glide ring, or shaft rubbing on the seal head, etc, will make sounds, but these are pretty distinguishable. Air moving through the system will make a different noise. It mostly tends to be louder.
Hopefully this helps a bit. It is somewhat challenging to describe the sounds using a keyboard.
good job! can you make a tutorial for the ohlins shock absorber and fork in the future?
Thank you very much for the comment. If I come across one I'll try but two thing to note: Ohlins are very rare here in SE MI (99% of the market here is dominated by fox and rockshox forks and shocks) and the bigger issue is last I checked they don't post their torque specs, which imo is needed. I'll see what I can do as your not the only one asking, but chances are it won't be until end of season
@@zoubtube I got it, that's it! anyway, good luck with the tutorial videos, they are very well made and explained! 👏
You got some strong hands it looks like. At 1:34:51, how hard was it pull the damper up? Do you think a lot people will have the strength to do that? Is there an easier way?
Maybe opening rebound would make the pulling easier
It's normally not hard to cycle the damper body when bleeding. This one was definitely stiffer than any other I've done. I'm not sure why. I thought the rebound was closed at first, but it wasn't. The chances are super high that you won't run into this issue.
nice work) Can you give me link on tool for damper cup?
My sincere apologies for the delayed response. I'm way behind on responding to comments. I believe you asking about the pin spanner tool. the link is below, if not let me know. but best to start a new comment as replies to my replies aren't easily visible to me. Thanks
www.ebay.com/itm/251968579948
Hi, great tutorial! Really clear. Can you tell me the diameter of the pin of the pin spanner wrench? I'm looking for a cheaper solution... Do you know if it is possible to use a more common tool? Thank you :) ps: I can't find videos on the fox dhx factory service (the new from 2022), it would be awesome if you could put your hand on one of them!
Great vid! I followed this to rebuild my fox float x performance with the specialized Rx Trail tune. My shock performs much better. However, my firm lever swing loosely. I know the set screw is set properly. What could be the problem?
Thanks for the comment. does the let lever work at all? Do you feel a firmness when moving it to the firm position? If not, and you are certain that the lever is securely tightened to the camshaft, then the lever cam is not connecting the piston rod, as seen in 1:03:8 portion of the video. Let me know if it gets firm when moving the lever to the firm position.
@@zoubtube Greetings from Greece. Same issue with my lever. But I am sure that the lever was not functional in the firm position before the service and it did not bother me. Are there noticeable clicks on each position? I never felt anything in mine. I also notice that there in no seal on the cap with the 2 screws. How is it possible to have oil under pressure without leaking? And of course thank you for the amazing videos!
@@mallias2683 ela re! to ptoto servis ke ta ekanes ola skata kiolas! 🤣🤣 I love the Greek language. A true testament to human ingenuity, which has perfected the art of using the word shit in every possible context. It's amazing what 5000+ years of linguistic development can achieve. 😉
When flipping the lever side to side, it should have a bit of a snap feel to it, nothing dramatic though, just a small clip sound. Sometimes they can feel a bit loose, other times more snappy. What really matters is that it works when flipping it back and forth. open/firm. When I say firm, I don't mean full lockout. It's just going to feel firm on harder impacts.
The seals are on the reservoir piston, as can be seen at the 1:00:28 mark. They block the holes that lead to the cam. If it was leaking, you would know it. The pressure in the shock will force oil out of the smallest leak.
Do you see any oil? Does the shock get firm when in firm mode. Let me know.
tora eínai arga, perase i ora. pow yia eva kalo hesimo, kai meta amesos yia epno! 😁
ade yia!
Great work…My shock sounds like that for the first 3 or 4 strokes then it’s silent. It has been sat for a while, will it be the same issue or just needs the oil to heat up a bit? Thanks.
Good question. If the noise is originating from the air can, it's the result of pressure equalization between the positive and negative chambers. However, if the noise is emanating from the damper body, it's likely due to air ingress into the oil via the IFP. This can lead to audible air cavitation as it passes through the valving. A simple bleed procedure will solve this without having to rebuild the shock if the seals are still in good condition.
I hope this helps and thank for the comment
Mate - some great video)
Only thing I want to know is how to remove compression lnob🤣🤣. Mine needs some grease , I can’t feel klicks. But you said there is literally no reason to remove yours🤣🤣🤣. Any advice? Thanks !
Apologies for the delayed response. Damn dude, now I REALLY regret not going over this in the video. The Knob pops off. There are four small springs and balls under it, which you can lose. Putting them back can be a PITA. I'll make a video on just working on this part. I'll try and get it done soon
Watching another tutorial video..
So your the one watching them! 😁 Thanks for the support myman. More videos to come 👍
nice video as always, could you tell me how the syringe is called?
Thanks for the compliment. The syringe in the video is a regular SRAM brake bleed syringe. Low cost aftermarket versions can be found on Amazon. Just make sure NOT to use the syringe for both bleeding DOT fluid brakes and servicing your shock unless you are absolutely sure the syringe is free of any DOT fluid in it
@@zoubtube ty
I can't seem to find your vice block, can you share the model?
I am also looking for the vise block! I can’t find it anywhere
Sorry for the delayed reply; I was out of the office. The block shown is a RockShox Reverb block. While it's very useful, the price has more than doubled since I bought mine. If the cost is prohibitive (and I wouldn't blame you if it is), search online for "Reverb vice block" for more affordable alternatives. There are a few to pick from these days.
www.amazon.com/RockShox-Reverb-Vice-Blocks/dp/B083QMY9NT
@@noahbigelow5691 Sorry for the delayed reply; I was out of the office. The block shown is a RockShox Reverb block. While it's very useful, the price has more than doubled since I bought mine. If the cost is prohibitive (and I wouldn't blame you if it is), search online for "Reverb vice block" for more affordable alternatives. There are a few to pick from these days.
www.amazon.com/RockShox-Reverb-Vice-Blocks/dp/B083QMY9NT
Does this process also work on Marzocchi bomber air? I heard its basically identical to the float X
Very similar but not totally identical. There will be some small details that are different. where do you live?
@zoubtube United States
@ignatiusrobinson what state?
@@zoubtube How is that relevant might I ask?
@ignatiusrobinson If you're reasonably close I'd do it for you so I can make a video out of it.
Hi, I was wondering what torque wrench do you use?
I have a set of snapon techangle torque wrenches. They are super precise but overkill for this application (technically, they are built for the aircraft industry). I bought them a long time ago for a completely different purpose, but I use them on everything. I don't recommend people buy them unless they work on precision products like engines, etc. There are other solutions out there for much less money that will get you similar precision these days, which is a really great thing
@@zoubtube aa ok thx
hi! what torque wrench are yoyu using?
I have a set of snapon techangle torque wrenches. I bought them a long time ago for a different purpose, but since I have them I use them when needed. they are very precise, and can be sent to snapon in order to recalibrate them. They are total overkill for this purpose though, and I don't recommend people buy them for working on bikes. Today, we have many options that will provide very similar results as these snapons for MUCH less, which is a great thing IMO
are you an engineer? how do you know how to do this?
Fox has a detailed guide how to do it. Otherwise Fox has a program for dealers.
Apologies for the delayed response. My dad was a mechanic and encouraged me to learn how to rebuild stuff from a very young age. As for bike shocks and forks, they really aren't difficult to service (I guess that's relative, when compared to rebuilding a 1000cc 4-stroke engine with shim under bucket valves, rebuilding bike shocks and forks is easy). Unlike the old days, most bike suspension manufacturers provide the specs for assembly, which is needed to make sure the correct torque specs are used. I fundamentally believe that the vast majority of people can service them once they get over the small hump of intimidation. Hopefully, these videos will help some folks get over that hump with more confidence. 👍
@@Manetty6 Yup! I've never worked in the bike industry outside of helping those in my area, which I've been doing for many years. But the guides take a lot of the guess work out when rebuilding a product the first time 👍
I wish you were my neighbor.
you sort of are myman. were a basically a keyboard click away! 😉