I have a 2010 Ram 4x4 and just done the front struts. Mine just like this one. Remove wheel, release tie rod end, release the lower nut on the sway bar link(make sure free), remove brake caliper...you do not have to touch the bleed screw! Glad he said it's optional. Brake caliper pistons should be pushed back evenly not with a screw driver or such. make sure ABS wire is unhooked then your upper ball joint. Remove bolts for strut and remove. Thank you A1 auto for your video's, this is the first I watched where all this extra work was not needed.
Any suggestion on getting the lower strut bolt out? I got.t the nut of but can't get the bolt to push thru. I've hammered the hell out of it and it won't go
Seems like alot of extra work for someone who is doing DIY. I can see the sway bar link bolt, upper control arm bolt and outer tie rods. Alot of overkill if you aren't doing wheel bearings and brakes. Otherwise just remove those 3 things and you'll be fine 👍
This was great. So much appreciated and thanks for giving all the torque specs (except the sway arm connecting rod bolts). Can definitely be done without removing hub but helpful to see how it is all done if ever needed.
No doubt. Dude upper ball joint needs removal tie rod end needs removal and sway bar link needs removal strut to lower control arm bolt needs removal and three upper strut mount nuts need removal. Wtf are you doing
I just did this job. Took under 1.5 hrs didn't have to pull all those parts just tie rod upper control end link axle bolt loosened. I did remove calipers but didn't open them
Really appreciate the detail... but for those watching, This is probably how the "garage" would do it so they can charge the time and for broken parts.... Is all this necessary? Either way, I do think the detail in this video is very good.
Would bad squeaks when i go over bumps or turn the wheel be from a bad strut? I have replaced upper control ball joints and bushings and end links and outer tie rods and my 2017 RAM is still squeaking?
I just removed the tie-rod, upper control arm, bottom away bar, and caliper. Then have a friend push the lower control arm down. Whole strut come out from the bottom.
Why would you not use a hose over the bleeder screw and drain into a container like you do when bleeding the brakes instead of letting brake fluid pour all over the caliper? Wow.
Is it necessary to remove the rotor, knuckle, and disconnect it from the front axel? I saw another video where the did this install but just pushed down and popped the strut into place, didn't seem to have hurt anything. What are your thoughts? Is it mainly to guard the axel boot?
@@1AAuto I apologize but I don't think that answers my question, I'm just asking if I can save myself the time and effort of removing the rotor and knuckle as another installer just removed the upper sway bar nut and pushed down on the entire lower control arm assembly, knuckle with rotor and all, and popped the new strut up into the holes then down onto the control arm, he didn't take off the rotor and knuckle. So I'm just trying to get an idea as to the mentality behind doing those extra steps.
@@adamjursell I was definitely able to do it without removing the lower knuckle and rotor and axel but had asked wife to push down the axel while I slipped the shock in. Did the first side by myself with pry bar to help slip it in and was cursing whole time. Easier to have someone just push the arm down
@@pipewelda it didnt go well to say the least. Lol. Make sure your equipped to do this as I ended up screwing up my CV axles and they needed to be replaced and the tires wouldn't go back on and the tow truck guy was not happy lol ended up spending around $1900 on the whole thing.
Why doesn't the new strut come with a boot to keep dirt off the shaft? I replaced some struts on a car with new complete units like this and they didn't have boots either. All OEM struts have them. Why not aftermarket?
This is a fantastic video, but I have a question. Is it possible to remove the strut without removing the steering knuckle, axle, & tie rod end by using a pair of coil spring compressors to simply collapse the lower end of the strut to clear the lower "A" arm? Just curious if this can be accomplished without removing so many parts.
+0TransAtlantic0 You may be able to get the assembly out that way, but our video shows the easiest way without compressing the whole assembly. Thanks for watching!
Yes you can, i just did two today. Take apart upper balljoint, tie rod end and top sway bar link. Need a long pry bar to push down on the lower a-arm to clear the bottom of the strut. This yahoo taking a sledge hammer to the suspension wouldn’t come anywhere near my vehicles. If you must use a hammer it should be brass, not steel. No need to remove axle bolt either. He loosened so much stuff that you would need an alignment when done. 😂 He wails on the lower control arm to remove the lower sway bar link instead of just removing the top,of the link.
+Michael Pawloski Thanks for checking us out. You can locate your vehicles torque specifications in a Haynes Repair Manual or you can contact the dealership with your VIN to find that information. Hope this helps you out!
+Michael Davidson Thanks for checking us out! If you wanted to replace the shock only, it is possible, however, you would need to install the original spring onto the new shock. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
+Jacob Anderson This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Unless I missed it and I watched his video three times all the way through. He never gives you the torque spec or says when to tighten up the lower control arm back bolts and nuts.
+coltsfanindy1 Thanks for checking us out! You will need to torque the 24 mm lower control arm ball joint nut to 38 ft-lb plus 90 degrees. Hope this helps you out!
@@1AAuto no hes not talking about the lower ball joint.. the second step you list in the video is loosening the 2 bolts on each side of the lower control arm bushing where it mounts to the lca crossmember. In this video, you never tighten them back up. !! :)
+John Bargfeldt Thanks for checking us out! We do have a video showing how to replace a CV boot however it is not this specific vehicle. You can check that video out here: th-cam.com/video/vfp_C5r--p8/w-d-xo.html
I tried this to do it by myself, but ended up taking the truck to the shop, because the bottom bolts are seized in the bushing and I couldn’t get them out.
For those of You that is getting paid by the Job and not the Hour, disregard this video altogether, multiple steps taken to far, simply loosen the top and bottom of the strut and the stabilzer link aswell as upper control arm and slightly compress the spring with a spring compressor to get it more loose and take it out, i dont know why the whole control arm had to be unbolted this video should be removed this is the wrong way to do it
Talk about friggin' ridiculous! Why do they make what was such a simple process into brain surgery? I don't need new shocks, but saw this and want to get rid of the truck now. Way too much work for shock absorber!
No need to remove the knuckle! Too much disassembly for a simple job... only 3 nuts... nut connecting sway link to the sway bar, tie rod end nut and the nut connecting the knuckle to the upper control arm need to come off to do this! Remove the strut bolts/nuts and drop that puppy outta there! 😎
I feel like the this video is a mess , remove the entire knuckle ? 🤔 pretty sure you could easily navigate the new strut assembly in there without removing so much extra shit
Unfortunately your doing all that extra work for nothing...I just did mine watched this video and another one...This was way too many steps...Steps needed 1. remove caliper and hang it up with a caliper hanger...2. Remove top sway bar bolt 3. Remove tie rod 4. Remove upper ball joint 5. Unbolt lower strut bolt 6. Undo top 3 strut bolts... It comes right out if you have a leveling kit you have to pry down a little....There is no reason to remove the knuckle , caliper, etc..Big waste of time
Video is all over the place. Your taking the top bolts off the strut and have upper ball joint free and then the next part is still together. Is this your first time doing these? Loosening bleeders? Your just UTI mechanic. Get somebody else for these videos guys
You do talk to much and not moving your hands showing how it's done. We know what a bolt looks like, we know what an air tool is, you can save 30 min on a 35 min video. Sorry had to shut down the video, bring the other guy back, his hands move without 1st grade drama. I'm sorry for speaking up, but he is annoying. Just stick to basic mechanics here. Your like Mr. Roger's of 1A Auto.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Seems very professional and thorough. I feel really bad for anyone that took your advice and did it this way
Yeah tell me about it wow
Clearly paid by the hour and not by the job.. lol.
For real ha I'm like uhh...no? Haha
Instead of loosening the bleeder on the brakes just loosen the brake fluid resivor cap. No mess and no chance of air getting in the system.
This dude does it so calmly. No sweat or tears. Guess it would be very nice to have a lift and work in a/c 😉
This is Way more work than necessary !
I have a 2010 Ram 4x4 and just done the front struts. Mine just like this one. Remove wheel, release tie rod end, release the lower nut on the sway bar link(make sure free), remove brake caliper...you do not have to touch the bleed screw! Glad he said it's optional. Brake caliper pistons should be pushed back evenly not with a screw driver or such. make sure ABS wire is unhooked then your upper ball joint. Remove bolts for strut and remove. Thank you A1 auto for your video's, this is the first I watched where all this extra work was not needed.
+Love Works Thanks for checking us out and your feedback! Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Any suggestion on getting the lower strut bolt out? I got.t the nut of but can't get the bolt to push thru. I've hammered the hell out of it and it won't go
@@randallhunter3912 Next time use a jack under the knuckle/ control arm. Lift up. It’ll loosen :)
holy cow man.. ur very thorough about it but you took off alot of parts that didnt need to be..
Seems like alot of extra work for someone who is doing DIY. I can see the sway bar link bolt, upper control arm bolt and outer tie rods. Alot of overkill if you aren't doing wheel bearings and brakes. Otherwise just remove those 3 things and you'll be fine 👍
If you are doing it at home, you can put a jack under the steering knuckle to avoid taking the entire steering knuckle off.
+Brighton Allen Thanks for the tip!
You can avoid taking it all off altogether even on a Hoist we have tall jack stand supports For things exactly Like this
This was great. So much appreciated and thanks for giving all the torque specs (except the sway arm connecting rod bolts). Can definitely be done without removing hub but helpful to see how it is all done if ever needed.
No doubt. Dude upper ball joint needs removal tie rod end needs removal and sway bar link needs removal strut to lower control arm bolt needs removal and three upper strut mount nuts need removal. Wtf are you doing
I just did this job. Took under 1.5 hrs didn't have to pull all those parts just tie rod upper control end link axle bolt loosened. I did remove calipers but didn't open them
If you can compress the whole coil n shock,could you skip all the other disassembly?
You dont have to compress it too much, I fit my bilstein shocks fully extended in there, also didnt remove the hub assembly part
Really appreciate the detail... but for those watching, This is probably how the "garage" would do it so they can charge the time and for broken parts.... Is all this necessary? Either way, I do think the detail in this video is very good.
Would bad squeaks when i go over bumps or turn the wheel be from a bad strut? I have replaced upper control ball joints and bushings and end links and outer tie rods and my 2017 RAM is still squeaking?
The 1A auto videos are usually on point but this one’s all over the place.....
Not really...
The axle nut size is a 35 mm or
1&3/8 inch.
Gino Gambino mine is 36mm
earlier trucks are 35mm later are 36mm my 09 is 35mm
Thanks for all the great videos! This guy does an awesome job.
+Courtney Roy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This video is awesome
Thank you very much 1A auto.. u r doing a great favor for the ppl with these videos 🌹🌹🌹
+saud96661 Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video!
Can you not separate the pads without opening the bleeder port?
Dennis Lett yeah you just push the piston back with a screwdriver carefully
Just loosen the cap on the brake fluid resivor. Will work perfectly.
This video help me alot
I just removed the tie-rod, upper control arm, bottom away bar, and caliper. Then have a friend push the lower control arm down. Whole strut come out from the bottom.
You don’t have to remove all that stuff to get the strut out.
It's a coilover. Thank you for the very thorough video
+Rick Murphy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Are the front struts the same for a 2wd as a 4wd? No one makes a complete strut assembly that specifies 2wd.
Way to involved for me on a weekend I’m taking it to the shop to do.
Awesome! Learning alot.thanks guys.
thanks for the video it helped me allot I will check out 1A Auto for sure
Why would you not use a hose over the bleeder screw and drain into a container like you do when bleeding the brakes instead of letting brake fluid pour all over the caliper? Wow.
My truck is 2WD but the description on your website says 4WD on all shocks. Does it still fit?
Is it necessary to remove the rotor, knuckle, and disconnect it from the front axel? I saw another video where the did this install but just pushed down and popped the strut into place, didn't seem to have hurt anything. What are your thoughts? Is it mainly to guard the axel boot?
+Adam Ursell It was better for us to show the viewers the install.
@@1AAuto I apologize but I don't think that answers my question, I'm just asking if I can save myself the time and effort of removing the rotor and knuckle as another installer just removed the upper sway bar nut and pushed down on the entire lower control arm assembly, knuckle with rotor and all, and popped the new strut up into the holes then down onto the control arm, he didn't take off the rotor and knuckle. So I'm just trying to get an idea as to the mentality behind doing those extra steps.
@@adamjursell I was definitely able to do it without removing the lower knuckle and rotor and axel but had asked wife to push down the axel while I slipped the shock in. Did the first side by myself with pry bar to help slip it in and was cursing whole time. Easier to have someone just push the arm down
Great Video,made it look easy I will be conducting this service soon on my 2015 Ram hope i get it done as quick and efficient as the tech.
+Larrison Smith Thank you for your feedback!
WTF! I've never had to remove everything that you removed just for replacing the shocks. Is this really necessary?
How did you replace your shocks? I'm picking them up tomorrow and I'm not excited to do all this
@@vincentalejandro3023 haven't had time to do it yet, still looking at what shocks I want to buy.
Vincent Alejandro....same here! I went from being excited to dambed depressed now
@@pipewelda it didnt go well to say the least. Lol. Make sure your equipped to do this as I ended up screwing up my CV axles and they needed to be replaced and the tires wouldn't go back on and the tow truck guy was not happy lol ended up spending around $1900 on the whole thing.
Thanks very much for this video, helped me out big time👍
Awesome video buy missed too add the torque spec. of rear lower control arm bolts and torque on sway bar link. Thank you! Helped alot
+prodigy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
75 ft-lbs for the bottom swat link but only 16 ft-lbs for upper sway link (per one of their other videos)
Can you show how to get the bushing out that the shock bolts to if the bolt breaks.
+John Bunnell Thank you for the feedback!
should really torque the lower strut bolt that goes through the bushing w/ the weight of the vehicle on it
Why doesn't the new strut come with a boot to keep dirt off the shaft? I replaced some struts on a car with new complete units like this and they didn't have boots either. All OEM struts have them. Why not aftermarket?
Why can't you compress the shock/spring and avoid tearing apart the whole spindle assembly?
That was a great walk thru......thank you very much...
+J.W. Tucker Thank you for your feedback!
Why do you have to disassemble so much just to take the strut out? Mines blown and I need to swap the level kit over as well
Can you use a air impact gun to remove the lug nuts on those wheels?
Melvin Shupe yes
if it’s a half inch impact then yeah
You don’t have to take off hub or brakes but I like their videos
This is a fantastic video, but I have a question. Is it possible to remove the strut without removing the steering knuckle, axle, & tie rod end by using a pair of coil spring compressors to simply collapse the lower end of the strut to clear the lower "A" arm? Just curious if this can be accomplished without removing so many parts.
+0TransAtlantic0 You may be able to get the assembly out that way, but our video shows the easiest way without compressing the whole assembly. Thanks for watching!
Yes you can, i just did two today. Take apart upper balljoint, tie rod end and top sway bar link. Need a long pry bar to push down on the lower a-arm to clear the bottom of the strut. This yahoo taking a sledge hammer to the suspension wouldn’t come anywhere near my vehicles. If you must use a hammer it should be brass, not steel. No need to remove axle bolt either. He loosened so much stuff that you would need an alignment when done. 😂 He wails on the lower control arm to remove the lower sway bar link instead of just removing the top,of the link.
Piece of cake guys love doing struts 👍
+1A Auto Parts where do you get the torque specifications ?
+Michael Pawloski Thanks for checking us out. You can locate your vehicles torque specifications in a Haynes Repair Manual or you can contact the dealership with your VIN to find that information. Hope this helps you out!
I don’t understand I can’t find my struts and shocks for my ram the all say 4 wheel drive but my truck does not have 4x4 it’s only rear wheel drive
Great description! Exactly what I needed! Thanks!
+Shane Marten Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Is it possible to replace just the shock without removing the coil or is it an all or nothing matter
+Michael Davidson Thanks for checking us out! If you wanted to replace the shock only, it is possible, however, you would need to install the original spring onto the new shock. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
can you replace the shock inside that strut.
I can’t get the knuckle off mine. I’ve hit it and hit it tried heating it up. Any ideas?
I'm asking is all of this necessary just to replace studs!
No it isn't. Check this video: th-cam.com/video/olro6bJ9Hl0/w-d-xo.html
@@drewt3210 you the man, been looking for a vid like this
Do you have any for the 2wd trucks? I have a 2wd single cab
+Trequan Tucker Thanks for checking us out! This depends on the year of your truck. You can take a look on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Is this the same procedure for a 4x4?
That is a 4x4! It has a axle in the front????????
Will all of the torque specifications be the same for a 2020 Ram 1500 or would they be different. Thank you.
+Jacob Anderson This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto I'm wondering if it's the same procedure on the current model year 1500 Classic.
Will i need to get an alignment after replacing strut
+Brock Lalonde An alignment is suggested after replacing any steering/suspension components.
My new strut looks longer than the old one is that normal?
Unless I missed it and I watched his video three times all the way through. He never gives you the torque spec or says when to tighten up the lower control arm back bolts and nuts.
+coltsfanindy1 Thanks for checking us out! You will need to torque the 24 mm lower control arm ball joint nut to 38 ft-lb plus 90 degrees. Hope this helps you out!
@@1AAuto no hes not talking about the lower ball joint.. the second step you list in the video is loosening the 2 bolts on each side of the lower control arm bushing where it mounts to the lca crossmember. In this video, you never tighten them back up. !! :)
+David Aguiar Jr Thanks for the feedback!
@@DaveForArt yes looking for those specs too. Any idea?
75 ft-lbs for the bottom sway link but only 16 ft-lbs for upper (per one of their other videos)
126,000 views and only 800 likes, seems reasonable considering all of the skipped neccesary steps and added pointless steps
Great video
Thank you very much
10:12 about ripping the axle boot... has that "video for another day" been made? Asking for a friend...
+John Bargfeldt Thanks for checking us out! We do have a video showing how to replace a CV boot however it is not this specific vehicle. You can check that video out here: th-cam.com/video/vfp_C5r--p8/w-d-xo.html
Great video!!! Thanks
+Jae B. Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I tried this to do it by myself, but ended up taking the truck to the shop, because the bottom bolts are seized in the bushing and I couldn’t get them out.
can you do the other different way now.?
i think don’t have to remove a lot parts
compress the coil and save a 40 % of the job
(i see $75.00 an hour)
+Alfredo Jaime We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 2015 Ram.... I have shocks, not struts... what gives?
For those of You that is getting paid by the Job and not the Hour, disregard this video altogether, multiple steps taken to far, simply loosen the top and bottom of the strut and the stabilzer link aswell as upper control arm and slightly compress the spring with a spring compressor to get it more loose and take it out, i dont know why the whole control arm had to be unbolted this video should be removed this is the wrong way to do it
All this to replace a strut?
This dude has to be prior military or law enforcement.
Damn all that just for struts. Easy peasy lol
+Timothy Shanley Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You did not torque down you're lower A arm or give the torque specs on them.
I did mine without removing the axle and whatnot
Talk about friggin' ridiculous! Why do they make what was such a simple process into brain surgery? I don't need new shocks, but saw this and want to get rid of the truck now. Way too much work for shock absorber!
Earl Ismyname American Trucks installed Fox coilovers with only taking out the upper CA joint and tie rod end.
A little late on your comment but 3/4 of the stuff done here is not necessary to get this job done. A pair of spring compressors will get it done.
what a way to milk the clock if your hourly
No need to remove the knuckle! Too much disassembly for a simple job... only 3 nuts... nut connecting sway link to the sway bar, tie rod end nut and the nut connecting the knuckle to the upper control arm need to come off to do this! Remove the strut bolts/nuts and drop that puppy outta there! 😎
+Jeff Carello We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
Lmao bleed the brakes to change the strut 😂😂
Lmmfao
NO need to Remove all this parts! in fact the disc and caliper no need to remove you most be learning to change struts!!
+Pancho Villa We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
@@1AAuto Yes, but the fact of tutorials is to teach the same repair the most simple easy way!
Bad video, upper ball joint and outer tie Rod is all you need to disconnect.
Must be from California
Why does everyone use hand tools in videos? Where's your power tools?
Why do you keep showing us the nut?
I feel like the this video is a mess , remove the entire knuckle ? 🤔 pretty sure you could easily navigate the new strut assembly in there without removing so much extra shit
Doesn't even tell you what half the tools you need are, doesn't tell you how to take the abs line off thanks buddy
He lost me by the time he pushed the torque wrench a second time...
You don't need to do all that nonsense with the bleeder screw
Unfortunately your doing all that extra work for nothing...I just did mine watched this video and another one...This was way too many steps...Steps needed 1. remove caliper and hang it up with a caliper hanger...2. Remove top sway bar bolt 3. Remove tie rod 4. Remove upper ball joint 5. Unbolt lower strut bolt 6. Undo top 3 strut bolts... It comes right out if you have a leveling kit you have to pry down a little....There is no reason to remove the knuckle , caliper, etc..Big waste of time
+Good Day for Decay Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
So took me longer to watch this video than to do the actual job and with half the work. Seriously? Not working commission obviously.
Ouch,,,, why. It's easier then this
Video is all over the place. Your taking the top bolts off the strut and have upper ball joint free and then the next part is still together. Is this your first time doing these? Loosening bleeders? Your just UTI mechanic. Get somebody else for these videos guys
Seems an engineering fault having to do so much just to get to the struts.
Uî is it
You do talk to much and not moving your hands showing how it's done. We know what a bolt looks like, we know what an air tool is, you can save 30 min on a 35 min video. Sorry had to shut down the video, bring the other guy back, his hands move without 1st grade drama. I'm sorry for speaking up, but he is annoying. Just stick to basic mechanics here. Your like Mr. Roger's of 1A Auto.