016 Can You Run an Arduino from a Stirling Engine?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 เม.ย. 2017
- Answering the question you've been asking since you were 12, can you run an Arduino from a Stirling Engine?
I found the Stirling engine by searching on ebay.
Unfortunately the seller (ynaan) doesn't have any other for sale at the moment; but you should be able to find other with a search and the pictures.
UPDATE:
Jan Sittinger found a new source for these and cheaper too. Currently $40 U.S.
de.aliexpress.com/item/New-Ar...
Thanks to Terry Atkinson for the original idea.
Music: Hello Friend... by The Birth and Death of Silence is licensed under a Attribution License.
freemusicarchive.org/music/The... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Fire, electricity, water what could possibly go wrong.
Eric Taylor Don't forget alcohol.
IN MY CASE.....i lit my kitchen table on fire when it fell over :/ thankfully i had a fire extinguisher and theres no damage but ya it scares the shit out of you
XXxxcrisisxxXX sure bet it does
Someone read my thoughts... was about to comment the same thing.
Don't overlook the 'deft' handling of that utility blade. Whoa.
stirling engine, arduino, coke and strippers..... subscribed
this is like the fuel shortage in the '80s
The efficiency of a stirling engine is mainly determined by it's "regenerator". These simple stirling engines do not have a regenerator in there design. Adding a plug of steel wool in the air channel between the hot and cold part, acts as a regenerator. It increases the speed and torque of the engine significantly! Give it a try!
Who else is getting bothered by it constantly sliding on the desk
Yeah, really! Nothing that a bit of sticky side of duct tape rolled up to hold it underneath, eh?
Guilty :)
Only because of the open flame
Of all the the things to be concerned with......
The thing's enough of a fire hazard stationary. I don't feel comfortable with the possibility that it's going to slide off the table. And even if it wasn't a fire hazard, chances are the impact of the fall would probably break it anyway.
I like how it keeps slowly trying to run away and burn his house down. That's a feature most devices don't have, and life is more boring because of it.
I never thought I would see an Arduino running on fire...
The LED slowed the motor down when backwards because it has a microcontroller inside it (to make it change colors), and standard practice when using a microcontroller is to add a reverse protection diode so that people like you won't break the thing if they power it reversed. It acted like a low value resistor.
Source: 5+ years as an electrical engineer
Yup, that's exactly what I thought. It's not just a passive component, it has more then a diode in it.
I don't think that's right
Louis Stubbolo Why not? If I'm wrong, I'd like to know how for my own knowledge.
Leds are diodes anyways. Light emitting diode
Could be just an IC, not a microcontroller necessarily
I must have seen hundreds of Stirling engine videos on TH-cam, this is only about the sixth one that actually does anything useful. Well done.
Wrap a coil of copper tubing around the cold end, stick it on with some thermal paste, and run a refreshing reservoir of cooling liquid through it.
Joseph Boysha and hope it doesn't break the glass right?
The glass is only on the hot end of the engine. Jo is saying how to make the cold end colder.
Then use a torch on the the heatside, after installation of cooling coils..... The torch should melt inside pistion 1st if at all.
I thoroughly enjoyed the video. Very good hands-on approach to the Stirling engine concept and its potential.
Kenneth M. Price Jr. Thanks
"I wonder if it has a diode" - That's what the 'D' in LED is. Light Emitting *Diode*. =)
I was shocked at the speed of this Stirling Engine I have seen a lot of them but never one this fast! Looks really good too! Thanks for posting
like with drill bits; big diameter = small speed , small diameter = big speed.
The Raspberry PI Zero needs 140 milliamps to play 1080p videos. Could you do a video were you add a cooling solution and get it to run a PI?
The whole video I'm sitting here begging you to put some rubber feet on that damn engine.
For goodness' sake, put a sheet of rubber under that thing! It's travelling off into the distance!
Your intro earns you a sub.
That's just super cool man! Love it , it's to neat not to and it's so steam punk .
Measuring short circuit current is ok if that is what you want to know but you can't calculate power with it because in short circuit the generator works inefficiently and most of the usable power is used to heat the generator. (And in this case engine itself dropped speed significantly so output power was actually lower if we suppose that stirling engine torque is almost constant)
Now get a Fresnel lens, and you can improvise a mechanical solar power device.
Good idea. I've got the Fresnel Lens (a LARGE one), but what I don't have is a small steam engine to drive with it...
Someone bought me a steam engine (almost like magic) so look for this sometime this summer after it warms up!
Monta Elkins Would be a worthwhile video / project: Fresnel lens solar powering Sterling engine, in turn which would be powering a Raspberry Pi which you would use to run a Lightning bitcoin node.
Excellent video. It satisfied me what I wanted to know. Good job. The product is also available in Aliexpress. Thanks again.
My suggestion. Use the microcontroller to monitor the voltage and controll fuel consumption to optimize it's own efficency.
2:15 when you tried to consult the manual you said: "Not so good" for a split second thought you said "no tickee, no shirtee".
Even though I’m familiar with all of the things shown, this happens the be the most “mad scientist” video I’ve ever seen for some reason.
So the thermal efficiency goes up with increased temperature difference between hot and cold cylinders?
Needs a Patrion so he can afford a bloody clamp. Great video
Great and very educational. Need to have heat sinks to help it keep cool.
just got mines today ...its the coolest thing ever
Asking myself the same question. I have ordered one am thinking of trying to power my small boost converter.
I have been playing with arduino's for several years now, and have always loved the Sterling engine although I have never had one. I am considering buying one of them now though after watching this video, however I have a question, I believe it would work rather well to have it run from solar setting in the windshield of our Motor Home, which we live in during the winter, driving her from the frigid plains of South Dakota to the wonderfully warm desert of Arizona in the Mojave. So what I have in mind is to sit it on the dash, then mount a small magnifying glass over the heating element and let the Arizona sun run my little engine, to, perhaps charge a couple low power AA batteries from old solar lights that have gone to pot. Then use that power to light some LEDS that I have on the dash for night lights.
Magnifying glass is what I want to use for the heat too. 👍
This might be better to charge a battery since the draw will mostly be on the battery not the generator motor. Is that a transformer chip? How many volts did it step up the output to?
Taking the short circuit current/voltage reading does not produce accurate wattage values?
Suddenly got a lot of good recommendations from TH-cam and found this video. Subscribed! Could you explain how a Stirling Engine works though? Thanks!
There's so many videos on this. But what I still don't fully understand is why making the cool side cooler helps. I mean, the air is still expanding at the same rate if the flame is constant. The weighted flywheel is what pushes the air back into the hot side, after it was expanded into the cool side. But why increasing the speed of cooling increases gas pressure I don't understand I don't know what the optimum temperature difference is.
@@iwanttocomplain the movement is generated by a temperature difference, so increasing the hot side's temperature will do the same thing as decreasing the cold side's temperature. an optimum temperature difference would probably just be the lowest temperature the engine can handle without breaking on the cold side, and the highest temperature the engine can handle without breaking on the hot side.
@@qwerty9118 "The movement is generated by a temperature difference..." does not explain the mechanics, only the prerequisite state for the effect. If the motion is created by air expanding and pushing a piston then faster cooling, I have to assume 'shrinks' the air, so a weight shouldn't be necessary as the cool air would 'suck' the piston. Or maybe the weight is necessary to prevent an equal force of push and pull balancing out and making the piston not move at all... Honestly, I still don't understand. The weight would have to have enough force to counter the heated side so any energy generated would be lost in this action.
Perhaps you could stick some magnets to the flywheel and make your own generator - I bet it would be more efficient than the one they're using, plus you could set the voltage a bit higher then buck it down to 5V for your arduino. Also, maybe glue some rubber mat under the thing, or something heavy. Nice vid.
Your voice and humor are fucking amazing. You get a sub.
Slingshot Channnel's long lost cousin?
How long can you realistically run it without the glass popping
Ahhh yes....the esstential engineering needs. A multimeter, an ardriuno, coke, and strippers
Hi. To power the engine, what natural aspect can i use to spin the engine or work it except for flame?
You know some people who make this kind of engine, make use of ICE and hot air or room temperature atmosphere which allows the engine to work. Do you think the room temperature trick would work?
I am thinking of getting energy naturally at night and morning. Without the use of any fire or candle can i get some kind of ice on top and room air on bottom.
You could use it by a fresnel lens and reflect sunlight on glass tube
5:20 it slows down because of the MCU in the Led, it's not just a diode, its a small computer chip.
I'd say that it was shorting out the chip
Have you ever tried to hookup a small buck booster to get the voltage up above 10 volts? That would be interesting. I have a nano canon by kontax. I may try that myself.
I'd be curious to see if it could charge some sort of battery. Might need a stronger generator, not sure. I'd be interested to see how much fuel for how much charge you'd get.
did you post the link for the engine?
The exact one is no longer available where I purchased it on Ebay :( here is a similar one (but not exactly the same) from Amazon. www.amazon.com/Sunnytech-Stirling-Education-Electricity-Generator/dp/B01M0X6QDH/ref=sr_1_188?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492610862&sr=1-188&keywords=steam+engine
You shouldn't measure current in parallel. Try to add the arduino or some sort of resistance in the circuit to measure true current value . The reason it probably slowed down that much is because of internal safety circuitry in the multimeter to protect your device
how does measuring it slow it down? just curious, but does that put up resistance or something.
yeah the multi-meter has resistance and resistance in the circuit causes resistance on the axle of the generator
sweet demo.
Thanks!
Might be able to boost the power a bit with a brushless motor and a bridge rectifier
Just from that intro you've got my sub
hello dear
how are you
What does the part with the connecting rod without the glass tube do? It looks like it would be a drag on the power. The shape is all wrong for a radiator.
What was the current at say 4.5 volts? I don't think measuring the current and voltage with the generator at a dead short is fair play? (meter in current range is almost a dead short)
This is so cool shit! Keep up the great work!
you should experiment using a heating coil over the bulb, to get it to sustain its own heating source;, thus producing an over unification device.
Try a nintinol graphite thermal electric generator with a mini glow plug with a thin titanium sleave. For a regenerative heating element to operate the stirling cycle. Design the mini glow plug to heat up with a mini glow plug starter till the Nintinol graphite TEG kicks in to keep the glow plug red hot. Try a rewired mini drum motor generator with magnetic bearings with a vacuum spark gap to produce high frequency electricity. 😊
What percentage rubbing alcohol are you using where'd you get it?
It's like 91% available at Walmart and various drugstores
LOL I asked me exactly the same question, then youtube said anybody actually did this before!
surprising how fast it runs =)
Good job!
did i miss something or did you short the generator? the amperemeter acts like an 0 ohm resistor.....
Would it be possible to recharge your mobile with this?
bonus points if the Arduino monitors and displays the rpm of the stirling engine powering itself.
What if you put a peltier element on the radiator. Hot side on the radiator, cold side with a heat sink... you could squeeze a little more power out of it. It would be really ineffective on this design because the radiator is round and there would be little contact between the radiator and the peltier, but if the radiator was flat...
Heat-driven arduino... sure why not.
I do wonder. Would a peltier based solution be more efficient?
Also, when I used ice, I accidently got a water droplet on the glass and the thing cracked. I didn't know what happened so I just put the glass replacement on. I used the ice and when I pulled the cube away, I got a drop on the glass and it exploded everywhere.
If you stick your two probes straight onto the two poles of your power source without there being a load inbetween that 'circle', you are causing a total short, when you are in the mode that measures (milli)Amps on your meter. Leaving them on consequently like you do, gives you an enormous chance of just burning your (in this case little) generator and causing a short circuit is also Not Precisely The Right Way to get to know what actually that amount of applicable Amps is.. Don't try that with your probes straight into a wall outlet either: you will cause a bang, some big sparks, and maybe melt it even weld the tips of your probes (you won't see that though, cause you will be in the dark). Measurements should be done in line with your power consuming load (lamp, apparatus) - so with that connected to the power source, and then by cutting INBETWEEN on one of both wires. You that way see the actual amount of power consumed & running, and the power consuming application will act as a natural sort of safety, be cause it acts as a resistor: it only leaves trough what it has actually used and this will LIMIT the flow. By the way, this fault also explains why you got almost zero voltage any more, whereas it at first was above 5v: you created a short-out. Attempting to 'measure' the flow this way makes no sense: you did not get a real outcome that tells you anything: 100 mA times [almost zero] V = almost nothing. You only got ANYTHING be cause your meter got some internal resistance of its own. In (milli)Amp mode your meter measures by taking a small percentage of that enormous flow that in Amp mode runs through what furthermore is nothing but just straightdown a CONDUCTIVE connection inside with a very small very powerful resistor that can handle all of that power, and it can measures ACROSS the resistor. That is why these things have a fuse in mA mode, you otherwise would burn the circuit if you would overload it.
Can you do something for me please, create heat with electricity and measure power then use it to run the engine and measure the output power
Wow I had no idea a standalone arduino drew so little power. If feel like if anything much was connected to it, it wouldn't be able to supply enough power. Neat though!
Hello.
Er, I'm pretty sure you're putting the ice on the power cylinder, not the cold end of the displacement cylinder. Shouldn't you put the ice on the metal end of the other cylinder? The place with the little heat sink fins? Near the glass?
Maybe I'm wrong.
Monta quick question so I'm 18 years old and in my state im not old enough to buy alcohol would it be possible to run alcohol most commonly found in house alcohol cabinets. Love the video by the way. Love stirling engines
I'm using rubbing alcohol from the drugstore, You should be able to buy that, And it's very cheap. You can use drinking alcohol although that seems a bit of a waste. Drinking alcohol would need to be 100 proof or greater in order to burn but would work in that case
That thing is terribly inefficient at dead short load. That flame is dumping 40-50W and dead short the system puts out 0.0395W. Yeilding a system efficiency of ~0.1%-0.08%. I would like to see what would happen if you pwm'd the output through a beefy inductor and capacitor and swung the duty cycle looking for a maximum power point.
i would like to see if its possible to power an Raspberry + Monitor with it
So you could put this in hot sunshine and run it on ice😀 WOW
Turn of the little generator determines + & - get the motor to run the other way and you'll have to turn the led round too! Plus and minus is short and long legs of LED!
Sweden runs a submarine on a stirling, so yes. It's all about size!
thats what she said
This could be a case for a MPPT controller.
any way to make it run with a bit less noise ?
Of course you can. Lovely!
My stirling engine's glass broke. How to replace it? I have a replacement.
liked the ST:TOS part of the intro.
The engine reminded me of the Enterprise a bit, glad you recognized it.
can you charge a cell phone or power bank with this motor-engine ?
with additional electronics yes, but very slowly. Definitely not faster than the slowest wallplugs you can buy, probably less than half as "fast". (5V open circuit & 100mA short current -> somewhere around 2.5V * 0.5A = 1.25W if it's linear. 5W chargers are considered slow, 2.5W is the slowest you can find and the standard your PC USB ports can deliver)
If you get a pro mini clocked down to 8MHz, strip down the voltage regulator and LED's, it should run no problem.
Were you cooling working cylinder but not the heat exchanger (one with cooling ribs)? You should probably cool 2nd one, which takes heat on its glass side
That looks like a Beta Configuration. (Not a gamma)
In a Beta engine, air expands in one cylinder and contracts in the other, Both cylinders do work, and the amount of work depends on the heat difference between the two cylinders.
Cooling down the hot cylinder will just make it slow down and be less efficient.
TLD;DR : he was cooling the right part.
Benjamin Miller the displacer cylinder has a hot and cold region judging by the cooling fins so I believe cooling that end of the displacer cylinder would make a greater delta t causing more power.
You are assuming it's a gamma type. You are right IF it's a gamma type.
I don't think it's a gamma type. ( like I said.)
Look carefully at 0:50. both pistons have the same travel. And one cylinder is clearly compressing, while the other expands, (rather than one simply displacing back and forth.)
This is how a beta type works.
In a beta you want the delta T to be between the hot cylinder and the cold cylinder.
Benjamin Miller I believe you are correct I noticed the hot cylinder is open at the connecting rod end if it were a gamma type it would have to be sealed to facilitate creating a lower pressure as the air cooled in that end.
hello dear
where can i buy this Stirling engine?
the times will come that we use the stirling engine on a large scale
the messy professor
To any engineering minded people out there. Could you make a coil like found in an alternator, house it around the flywheel and make the flywheel out of some strong magnets and then run the Stirling? Would that work better than running a belt driven generator?
So, put a small aluminum heat sink on it haha. There's no fan to displace air over the find but who knows what could be done with those little things.
Please do another video on trying to run different things. Maybe charging a cell phone?
Sounds fun. Got a few more videos in the pipeline I will look into it in the future. Thanks
hook a fan up to the engine like a radiator fan in a car and get some active cooling on that engine
Logan Wightman put a carborator and air filter and to produce more oxygen to burn. and a better glass too.
You had me at coke and strippers!
you giv some inspirations to do more idea to supply power source in forest...when i'm starting my jobs...that's cool...
3.2 volt it's enough to charge power bank...🤔😁thank sir...
from your experiment..🤗🙏😋😋😋😋
You should check out a flame licker engine but they don't have a generator
The other direction... Reverse saturation current dude🙌🙌
06:05 - Shouldn't you connect to amperemeter by "resistor" like LED? No resistance - no current... :)
you're right!
Current is always measured in series and never in parallel for safety measures
An amp meter has almost zero resistance. When you put it in series, you are doing a short circuit. That's why the voltage dropped to almost zero. The measured current will be the maximum that the generator can supply.
@ Koceila "measuring current in parallel" think you got too much coke, maybe grab some strippers...
There is resistance, internal resistance of the generator + internal resistance of the multi-meter.
8:47 ... I believe the smoke isn't holy but comes from your burning meter ...
You would be better using a barebones arduino or perhaps a 3.3v Arduino
Googles Translate app has had a feature to translate text from your camera instantly for 3 years.
It's 8:36 when his multimeter will start melting 😂😂😂😂
excuse me sir, I have stirling energy 1. I beg for help stirling I do not want to work, can I ask for input / help sir
you had me at coke and strippers. Good stuff Thanks for sharing.
Me: Doing homework on Raspberry Pi
Raspberry Pi: *dies*
Me: MOM! MY BATTERY DIED!
Mom with steam engine in hand
thanks for posting. some info. at 5:30, as can be seen, out-of-the-box, this type of engine Needs Better ANCHORING. where vibration is unavoidable, DAMPING it, Reduces energy Loss. an engine Should have Mechanical Advantage over the load. soooo, the SMALL pulley should be mounted on the Engine output shaft. googletranslate