Hi MJF, thanks for a great video. I have followed this so as to do the job on our 262K miles CR-V. I had problems with extracting two injectors and needed a slide hammer. I still have to retrieve two injector washers. Also the a/c pump bracket bolts took a while. I hadn't realised that the rear engine mount bracket hides three sump bolts and I tried to miss this step. I also struggled with the correct shape 14mm spanner for the aux belt tensioner. Even with the cam cover off I struggled with the 6mm hex bolt on the cam chain tensioner finger. I had to use a 1/2" as my smaller one just bent. For the 8mm pin to hold the oil pump sprocket with the balancer shafts, I originally used threaded bar. Beware anyone else - if it bends then it is very hard to remove! Eventually I found a high tensile bolt and still needed a breaker bar to undo the sprocket bolt. The cam chain is very stretched but there's little stretch in the oil chain. I am just about to refit the sump etc. Thanks again
Excellent video and information , thank you so very much indeed for sharing this with us all. And well done as it’s a tricky and also extremely detailed job to do properly. You definitely deserve a medal of proficiency and honour for your professionalism as a mechanic. Thanks and best wishes from Northern Ireland. 🌠🌠🌠🌠🌠👌🏻
I have a 2008 petrol mondeo with a cam chain that's done 167k miles and is quiet as a mouse. I was looking at getting an fn2 civic diesel and the only concern for me really are the weak clutch but many have been replaced by now and also the injector seals can go too but overall they're very reliable by all accounts.
Yea, if you want reliable honda is up there, the only actual fault I had with this in 3 years/40,000 miles was an abs sensor, everything else was preventative/ normal maintenance.
@@MJF85 Ive changed it today, but iam not sure how far it have to go in. Ive used an Allen key for locking it. It only went in a few cemtimeters, it locked but it had little play but i think it did its job😅
@HG.Emmanuel I think the oil pump also has balance shafts in it, the timing of these is a little less critical than the crank to camshaft timing so you should be OK with a little bit of movement
Thanks for the video. We bought a crv same as this which is a non runner. Old owner said it had engine slapping and then engine oil light came on and it cut out. We stripped it down as per your instructions to find the main timing chain guides broken up and chain very loose. Oil pump chain looks good. How should we test to check if engine has skipped a tooth or 2 on the timing? If it had would it do damage? No evidence of metal fillings in oil but could it have bent valves etc? Thanks for any help in advance
If the camshaft timing marks line up with the crank lined up and cylinder 1 at tdc then the timing should be OK. I don't know wether these are interference engines but it's likely (valves hitting pistons when timing is out). I'd be concerned about the oil light coming on with the pump chain being OK.
Hi, I dont have the piece to block the crankshaft, how can i loosen the camshaft sprockets. Sorry for my english. Thanks for your video , really good job ;)
Hi. The camshafts have a hexagonal cast in them at the sprocket end so you can hold them using a spanner, 21mm I think it was, while loosening the pulleys. The crankshaft pulley bolt is difficult to remove, i had a socket and breaker bar wedged against the floor and turned the engine over on the starter motor to crack the crank bolt loose. You could use a drill bit in the balance shaft timing hole. Thanks
@MJF85 cheers for replying, I'll take the old girl to the local garage and see if they can do it. Keep getting the orange oil light coming on, switch off and on again seems to temporarily cure it. Thanks again 👍
Took it yesterday to the Honda dealership in Bucharest. They initially stated a price for changing the whole kit and 6h after I drop the car, they call me back to inform me that I also gave them the oil pump chain and that will cost more to change (~150€). I tell them it's okay and to change the whole kit and yesterday they call to tell me that the AC Compressor Bolt doesn't come out and if they force it, they'll break it and I'll have to pay another ~120€ for the compressor support. I once again tell them to proceed and the lady at the dealership casually tells me it will take 15-20 WORKDAYS for the support to arrive so I flip those fuckers off and told them to change only the god-damned timing chain... The manopera for the change is around 450€. The whole kit from Ashika I bought myself is around 150€. Long story short.. don't go to dealerships. They're idiots and they charge a lot for their incompetence
nice video, any idea what might be a hot start problem on this engine? after timing chain kit change was done by mechanic a problem occurs after i drive car for 30-40 minutes and engine gets hot , it's starts but after 2 or 3 attempts . When engine is cold starts ok. No error or something computer shows. Thanks
@@MJF85 I found that when the tensioner protrude 16mm or more, the chain and tensioner needed to be replaced, the same as for gasoline or diesel engines.
Honda won't make the chain themselves, it'll be from a company like fae. The fae kit was fine for the 30,000 miles of hard driving I did until the car was written off in an accident.
Good video bud, going to do mine soon but wanted to check a few things, first is why do you have to remove the injectors? and second will i get away with using a 8mm drill bit to lock the balance shaft?
hello. have a question. the litle pin behind the crankshaft bolt that atatch cranckshaft pulley to camshaft and oil sproket is not simetrical. how did you install it? Thank you
Hi. I'd say it was a good option. The parts all looked and felt good quality and well made, it's a much better option than the cheaper alternatives. I'd steer clear of the cheaper kits available
@@MJF85 Im asking because i've seen many opinions stating that you should use genuine honda kit and nothing else.Sadly the honda kit is very expensive and i really hope that the aftermarket ones are good atleast 70 % compared to the genuine ones
@@panayotovhristo804 the honda parts are made by another company such as bosch, luk or even FAI, many aftermarket parts are exactly the same as the genuine ones because of this. Car manufacturers other companies to produce many of their parts.
Could you please inform me of the mileage at which the timing chain was replaced for the car? I'm planning to buy a car with the same engine with 112k mileage.
Hi, Does this FAI chain kit still drive, how many miles has passed since the change? I am interested in quality, because others recommend only OEM Honda chain kit and i know it's not manufactured strictly by Honda. Thanks
can I send you a video of my 268k km Accord tourer and tell me if you think the timing chain should be changed? It has a weird scratching noise between 1800-2000rpm but other than that, it's like new. I wouldn't jump in spending 1k$ to change it if isn't loose...
It would be a full day I'd think, I did mine over a few days in between other things. Dropping the sub frame and intercooler pipes to get the sump out adds a chunk of time
@@MJF85 yeah its good if you can spread it out like that. We just bought one 2009 125k, it sounds a bit rattly on startup but not when warm. Apart from the sound if the a physical check thats less subjective that you can do to ascertain if it needs changing.
@@jamriggsy I don't think theres anyway of checking without taking the timing cover off to get to the chain, and if your going that far you may as well replace it all
@@jamriggsywhile changing the front brake pads, I noticed an inspection cover to view the chain . You can also inspect/change the tensioner if necessary. Made a video showing its location... th-cam.com/video/r8NebEabPLg/w-d-xo.html
Hello mate. Thanks for putting this up, not much stuff on the net about replacing cam chains on this engine. I have an 07 CRV that needs the chain doing badly, it's been rattly for a couple of years! I'm planning on doing it myself and would like to pick your brains over a few things but seems TH-cam have disabled private messages. My first concern is removing the injectors, did you have much of a problem with them? Many thanks in advance, Andy👍🏼
Hi Andy. Thanks for the subscribe. A couple of my injectors were tight but with plenty of wd40 and using a small pry bar to gently try to rotate them I got them out without too much hassle. I just got them turning slightly and kept wiggling them back and forth to free them up.
@@MJF85 OK, cool. That's good to hear. Probably going to tackle it in a few weeks. Been thinking of putting some penetrating oil or diesel around the injectors well in advance. Couple more questions, did you have a workshop manual to work from and did you also replace the oil pump chain? Cheers😁
I had access to autodata for torque specs and a general idea but no real workshop manual. I did end up doing the oil pump chain, was hoping not to but it needed it, need to drop the sub frame to get the sump off to do the oil pump chain.
@@MJF85 yes, I've read it's best to replace the oil pump chain at the same time. Doesn't seem to be one in the FAI kit though, do you mind if I ask where you sourced one from?
Ebay, ended up buying them separate as I ordered the oil pump one once I'd got the timing cover off. fai part number for the oil pump opck12, timing chain tck162, you can double check the part numbers on the fai website.
Great vid pal. I'm in UK. How much to do this job? I've got one with 150 on it and it's sounding a little noisy. Sometime stalls immediately when i let go of key after starting. Wondering if the stretched chain can cause this. Anyway, looking for round about price. Thanks
That is a great video! Thanks for doing it! Can you just tell how do you lock the camshafts before removing the chain? Also when you lock the balance shafts do you need to lock the crankshaft separately or is that it?
Thankyou. I didn't lock the cams or crank. The cams have flats in them to allow a spanner to fit and hold them as you undo the cam pulley bolts. The cams are joined by geared pulleys that have timing marks. The timing chain pulleys on the cam and crank are marked up as well, the chain itself has coloured links that line up with the marks on the pulley when you assemble it.
@@MJF85 Many thanks for your reply! I see what you mean now, so even if the cams leave their position you should always be able to rotate them back to the original position by looking at the pulley markings? And the same will be valid to the crankshaft?
@@MJF85 thanks once again for helping me. My problem is that I have a ticking only when the car is warm and only when idling. When cold is absolutely silent. The car is only 92k. I though it was something driven by the auxiliary belt so I've put new alternator with the shorter belt and new aux belt tensioner but the ticking at idle when warm is still there. I then done the test of removing the belt when warm to see if the noise went away and I can barely ear it with the belt removed but I reckon is still there, it is just much much less, so I am thinking its gota be the chain or a tensioner? I hope you won't mind me asking but I wonder if you are located in the South West and could possibly have a look at it. Thanks
Great video. Do you know if its an interference engine, as i have a friend whose chain is basically off and a non runner? I’m happy to rip into it and fit a new chain for her but dont want to throw good money after bad. Thanks. Dave.
Hello. Nice job. I have same crv with same engine. It's about 200k. KM. And i think the timing chain has never been changed. It sounds pretty normal no strange noises or something. Should i change the chain for better sleeping? :) How many km is recommend to change the chain?
Hi, thankyou. Mine had done about 140,000 miles and was rattling a little with the engine running at idle. If it isn't making any strange noises I wouldn't worry about it too much, but it does seem common for these to require replacing at 130,000 to 150,000 miles. If it does snap it can damage the engine beyond repair.
I'm not hearing any difference. Or maybe it's because you took the first video with the car inside and the second out side. Either way, I don't like that fact that you haven't used OEM parts on such a crucial part.
Ok, well its my own car so my problem if anything happens, 20,000+ miles later and its still going strong. To be honest it didn't sound all that bad to start with, just done as a precaution as one of the big problems with modern diesels is the chain stretching far enough to jump timing or snapping altogether.
@@MJF85 That's nice to hear and I love it. Preventing potential bigger expenses is always in my book! Just like headlights, it's such a simple thing to use some wax or very light abrasive(polish) and sealant to keep them nice. Compared to yellowed and cloudy ones, you'll kinda have to change them cos it's never gonna look as good as new after you polish it off and seal it(uv protect).
Hi, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a crv and it sounds just like yours at the end of the video. I have made a short video th-cam.com/users/shortsX7usIjgKXrQ?feature=share I don't have any symptoms just this annoying noise and I have the engine apart for some other work so wondering if it's worth doing the chain. Would appreciate any input. Thanks
I wouldn't worry too much unless you were doing high mileage in it, chains can last a long time and generally start rattling more before they give up completely.
My friend I installed fai timing chain and after 10000 miles it was loose. So I put OEM parts. It more expensive but it worth
Hi MJF, thanks for a great video. I have followed this so as to do the job on our 262K miles CR-V.
I had problems with extracting two injectors and needed a slide hammer. I still have to retrieve two injector washers.
Also the a/c pump bracket bolts took a while.
I hadn't realised that the rear engine mount bracket hides three sump bolts and I tried to miss this step.
I also struggled with the correct shape 14mm spanner for the aux belt tensioner.
Even with the cam cover off I struggled with the 6mm hex bolt on the cam chain tensioner finger. I had to use a 1/2" as my smaller one just bent.
For the 8mm pin to hold the oil pump sprocket with the balancer shafts, I originally used threaded bar. Beware anyone else - if it bends then it is very hard to remove! Eventually I found a high tensile bolt and still needed a breaker bar to undo the sprocket bolt.
The cam chain is very stretched but there's little stretch in the oil chain.
I am just about to refit the sump etc. Thanks again
Glad its been of use to you
Excellent video and information
, thank you so very much indeed for sharing this with us all. And well done as it’s a tricky and also extremely detailed job to do properly. You definitely deserve a medal of proficiency and honour for your professionalism as a mechanic. Thanks and best wishes from Northern Ireland. 🌠🌠🌠🌠🌠👌🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a 2008 petrol mondeo with a cam chain that's done 167k miles and is quiet as a mouse. I was looking at getting an fn2 civic diesel and the only concern for me really are the weak clutch but many have been replaced by now and also the injector seals can go too but overall they're very reliable by all accounts.
Yea, if you want reliable honda is up there, the only actual fault I had with this in 3 years/40,000 miles was an abs sensor, everything else was preventative/ normal maintenance.
Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped
Do you have a link from the 8mm locking pin? And how did you loosen the oilpump bolt is it enough to arratate it with the locking pin?
@HG.Emmanuel use a drill bit or bolt as a locking pin, that should be enough to hold it whilst unbolting the oil pump
@@MJF85 Ive changed it today, but iam not sure how far it have to go in. Ive used an Allen key for locking it. It only went in a few cemtimeters, it locked but it had little play but i think it did its job😅
Is the hole just to counteract or is there another reason for locking it?
@HG.Emmanuel I think the oil pump also has balance shafts in it, the timing of these is a little less critical than the crank to camshaft timing so you should be OK with a little bit of movement
@@MJF85 Alright, thanks for answering so quick! But do you remember how far the pin went in in your case? Did it went through both balance shafts?
Thanks for the video. We bought a crv same as this which is a non runner. Old owner said it had engine slapping and then engine oil light came on and it cut out. We stripped it down as per your instructions to find the main timing chain guides broken up and chain very loose. Oil pump chain looks good. How should we test to check if engine has skipped a tooth or 2 on the timing? If it had would it do damage? No evidence of metal fillings in oil but could it have bent valves etc? Thanks for any help in advance
If the camshaft timing marks line up with the crank lined up and cylinder 1 at tdc then the timing should be OK. I don't know wether these are interference engines but it's likely (valves hitting pistons when timing is out). I'd be concerned about the oil light coming on with the pump chain being OK.
Great job!
Thankyou mark
Link video expert instalation???
Hi,
I dont have the piece to block the crankshaft, how can i loosen the camshaft sprockets.
Sorry for my english.
Thanks for your video , really good job ;)
Hi.
The camshafts have a hexagonal cast in them at the sprocket end so you can hold them using a spanner, 21mm I think it was, while loosening the pulleys.
The crankshaft pulley bolt is difficult to remove, i had a socket and breaker bar wedged against the floor and turned the engine over on the starter motor to crack the crank bolt loose.
You could use a drill bit in the balance shaft timing hole.
Thanks
@@MJF85 Thank you for this informations, it would be very helpful to me.
Fantastic video, I'm just about to look at a 1 owner 2011 Cr-V on 150k but with full Honda service history. At what miles do these need a chain?
It varies depending on maintenance etc. I've not heard of one snapping or anything tbh but you never know.
Alright mate, fancy changing my oil pump and oil pressure sensor on my 2008 CRV?
@@russblakey afraid not, struggle to get the motivation to work on my own cars nowadays never mind someone elses. Thanks for the thought though
@MJF85 cheers for replying, I'll take the old girl to the local garage and see if they can do it. Keep getting the orange oil light coming on, switch off and on again seems to temporarily cure it. Thanks again 👍
Took it yesterday to the Honda dealership in Bucharest. They initially stated a price for changing the whole kit and 6h after I drop the car, they call me back to inform me that I also gave them the oil pump chain and that will cost more to change (~150€). I tell them it's okay and to change the whole kit and yesterday they call to tell me that the AC Compressor Bolt doesn't come out and if they force it, they'll break it and I'll have to pay another ~120€ for the compressor support. I once again tell them to proceed and the lady at the dealership casually tells me it will take 15-20 WORKDAYS for the support to arrive so I flip those fuckers off and told them to change only the god-damned timing chain...
The manopera for the change is around 450€. The whole kit from Ashika I bought myself is around 150€.
Long story short.. don't go to dealerships. They're idiots and they charge a lot for their incompetence
Sounds like you've had a rough time with them, hope it's sorted soon
Reviving an old video. Are the DTEC 2.2 oil pump set up the same as the CDTI?
Hi, afraid i don't know the answer to this, chances are they're probably very similar.
Good job
Thanks. Wasn't a bad job to do, spread it out over a few days between work etc.
nice video, any idea what might be a hot start problem on this engine? after timing chain kit change was done by mechanic a problem occurs after i drive car for 30-40 minutes and engine gets hot , it's starts but after 2 or 3 attempts . When engine is cold starts ok. No error or something computer shows. Thanks
Hello. Good video. How much did the piston of the main chain tensioner protrude.
I can't remember, didn't really think to check either tbh.
@@MJF85 I found that when the tensioner protrude 16mm or more, the chain and tensioner needed to be replaced, the same as for gasoline or diesel engines.
Hi! Thanks for the video.
I have doubts about use this FAE kit, or bought honda oem(very expensive)
Is the fae kit good enought?
Honda won't make the chain themselves, it'll be from a company like fae. The fae kit was fine for the 30,000 miles of hard driving I did until the car was written off in an accident.
Good video bud, going to do mine soon but wanted to check a few things, first is why do you have to remove the injectors? and second will i get away with using a 8mm drill bit to lock the balance shaft?
Injectors out to be able to get the camshaft cover off, drill bit needs to be a tight fit so the shift is locked in position.
hello. have a question. the litle pin behind the crankshaft bolt that atatch cranckshaft pulley to camshaft and oil sproket is not simetrical. how did you install it? Thank you
Hello,man! U have done a nice job.Im thinking of changing the chain of my i-ctdi as well.Can you tell me if FAI is a good option?
Hi. I'd say it was a good option. The parts all looked and felt good quality and well made, it's a much better option than the cheaper alternatives. I'd steer clear of the cheaper kits available
@@MJF85 Im asking because i've seen many opinions stating that you should use genuine honda kit and nothing else.Sadly the honda kit is very expensive and i really hope that the aftermarket ones are good atleast 70 % compared to the genuine ones
@@panayotovhristo804 the honda parts are made by another company such as bosch, luk or even FAI, many aftermarket parts are exactly the same as the genuine ones because of this. Car manufacturers other companies to produce many of their parts.
@@MJF85 do you have service repair manual for Honda diesel?
Hi, no, I had access to autodata as a reference when needed.
how long did it take to strip and replace the kit.👍
I spread it out over a couple of days, 8hrs maybe.
do you have access to the torq specs for the injectors, chain tensioners, crank pulley and the cam gears? i can`t find the info anywhere
lol that's quieter than my chain 🤣🤣
@@bigdoggetom6549 more preventative maintenance than a must do
@@MJF85 I actually found this video because my turbo crapped itself, so bigger worries first 😀
Could you please inform me of the mileage at which the timing chain was replaced for the car? I'm planning to buy a car with the same engine with 112k mileage.
I think this one was about 130k miles. They are a good engine, the chains can last for many more miles, this was more a precautionary replacemant.
Hi, Does this FAI chain kit still drive, how many miles has passed since the change? I am interested in quality, because others recommend only OEM Honda chain kit and i know it's not manufactured strictly by Honda. Thanks
Fine so far, I think I've done about 20,000 miles since, maybe more.
can I send you a video of my 268k km Accord tourer and tell me if you think the timing chain should be changed? It has a weird scratching noise between 1800-2000rpm but other than that, it's like new. I wouldn't jump in spending 1k$ to change it if isn't loose...
From your description it sounds like it might be the chain, I'd take it to a agrigento and get their opinion, it's hard to tell through video
@@MJF85 agrigento is in italy. I'm in Romania :))
@@MJF85 also, do you happen to know if my accord has the timing chain inspection cover?
Nice vid. Thinking of doing this myself too. How long would you say it take being conservative. 6 hrs?
It would be a full day I'd think, I did mine over a few days in between other things. Dropping the sub frame and intercooler pipes to get the sump out adds a chunk of time
@@MJF85 yeah its good if you can spread it out like that. We just bought one 2009 125k, it sounds a bit rattly on startup but not when warm. Apart from the sound if the a physical check thats less subjective that you can do to ascertain if it needs changing.
@@jamriggsy I don't think theres anyway of checking without taking the timing cover off to get to the chain, and if your going that far you may as well replace it all
@@jamriggsywhile changing the front brake pads, I noticed an inspection cover to view the chain . You can also inspect/change the tensioner if necessary. Made a video showing its location... th-cam.com/video/r8NebEabPLg/w-d-xo.html
Hi where's location of PCV valve on that engine.thanks
@victortoderica4497 hi, I don't have one to look at anymore but there is a breather built into the camshaft cover
@@MJF85 ok thank you
If anyone needs advise on doing this themselves please ask.
MJF hi i have rattling noise only when accelerate. Sationary engine working sound ( lkie petrol). When driving with same speed silence. Can be chain ?
Hello mate. Thanks for putting this up, not much stuff on the net about replacing cam chains on this engine. I have an 07 CRV that needs the chain doing badly, it's been rattly for a couple of years! I'm planning on doing it myself and would like to pick your brains over a few things but seems TH-cam have disabled private messages. My first concern is removing the injectors, did you have much of a problem with them? Many thanks in advance, Andy👍🏼
Hi Andy. Thanks for the subscribe. A couple of my injectors were tight but with plenty of wd40 and using a small pry bar to gently try to rotate them I got them out without too much hassle. I just got them turning slightly and kept wiggling them back and forth to free them up.
@@MJF85 OK, cool. That's good to hear. Probably going to tackle it in a few weeks. Been thinking of putting some penetrating oil or diesel around the injectors well in advance. Couple more questions, did you have a workshop manual to work from and did you also replace the oil pump chain? Cheers😁
I had access to autodata for torque specs and a general idea but no real workshop manual. I did end up doing the oil pump chain, was hoping not to but it needed it, need to drop the sub frame to get the sump off to do the oil pump chain.
@@MJF85 yes, I've read it's best to replace the oil pump chain at the same time. Doesn't seem to be one in the FAI kit though, do you mind if I ask where you sourced one from?
Ebay, ended up buying them separate as I ordered the oil pump one once I'd got the timing cover off. fai part number for the oil pump opck12, timing chain tck162, you can double check the part numbers on the fai website.
link video chain installation?
Great vid pal. I'm in UK.
How much to do this job? I've got one with 150 on it and it's sounding a little noisy. Sometime stalls immediately when i let go of key after starting. Wondering if the stretched chain can cause this.
Anyway, looking for round about price. Thanks
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I'd want about £400 in labour, plus parts. Tbh mine can cut out if I release the starter to soon
Video instalation link?
Hi, I don't understand what you're asking for?
@@MJF85 link video chain installation expert????
That is a great video! Thanks for doing it! Can you just tell how do you lock the camshafts before removing the chain? Also when you lock the balance shafts do you need to lock the crankshaft separately or is that it?
Thankyou. I didn't lock the cams or crank. The cams have flats in them to allow a spanner to fit and hold them as you undo the cam pulley bolts. The cams are joined by geared pulleys that have timing marks. The timing chain pulleys on the cam and crank are marked up as well, the chain itself has coloured links that line up with the marks on the pulley when you assemble it.
@@MJF85 Many thanks for your reply! I see what you mean now, so even if the cams leave their position you should always be able to rotate them back to the original position by looking at the pulley markings? And the same will be valid to the crankshaft?
@@ct2hha yes, the cams may move a little but easy enough to move back with spinners. The crank shouldn't move
@@MJF85 thanks once again for helping me. My problem is that I have a ticking only when the car is warm and only when idling. When cold is absolutely silent. The car is only 92k. I though it was something driven by the auxiliary belt so I've put new alternator with the shorter belt and new aux belt tensioner but the ticking at idle when warm is still there. I then done the test of removing the belt when warm to see if the noise went away and I can barely ear it with the belt removed but I reckon is still there, it is just much much less, so I am thinking its gota be the chain or a tensioner? I hope you won't mind me asking but I wonder if you are located in the South West and could possibly have a look at it.
Thanks
@@ct2hha I've had this problem and alternator pulley replacement solve this problem 👍
Great video.
Do you know if its an interference engine, as i have a friend whose chain is basically off and a non runner?
I’m happy to rip into it and fit a new chain for her but dont want to throw good money after bad.
Thanks. Dave.
Hi Dave, I don't know if it's an interference engine I'm afraid, I didn't want to find out the hard way either.
MJF it’s ok, I’ve googled it, it is, so looks like I’ll be sourcing another engine, if I get involved.
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the info.
All diesel engines are interference engines.
hi how much would you charge to do this job thanks thinking of getting mine done
Hi, sorry for the late reply. I'd personally want about £400 in labour plus the parts.
Hello. Nice job. I have same crv with same engine. It's about 200k. KM. And i think the timing chain has never been changed. It sounds pretty normal no strange noises or something. Should i change the chain for better sleeping? :) How many km is recommend to change the chain?
Hi, thankyou. Mine had done about 140,000 miles and was rattling a little with the engine running at idle. If it isn't making any strange noises I wouldn't worry about it too much, but it does seem common for these to require replacing at 130,000 to 150,000 miles. If it does snap it can damage the engine beyond repair.
How many hours roughly does it take to do this job on a crv? Any special tools needed many thanks.
I did this over a few days in no rush, so can't really say how long it took
What was the mileage when you have changed the chain?
About 120,000
Hello how much would you charge to do this on mine
I don't generally work on other peoples cars nowadays sorry.
How many KM was on the car before you changed the chain?
About 140,000 miles/225000km.
Mine has 185 000 km
In need to change it?
I wouldn't unless it sounds like it's rattling from the chain area
Hi. You said remapped. Kept dpf and everything? Cruise is still working?
This one doesn't have a dpf, cat is still there. Everything works fine.
I'm not hearing any difference.
Or maybe it's because you took the first video with the car inside and the second out side.
Either way, I don't like that fact that you haven't used OEM parts on such a crucial part.
Ok, well its my own car so my problem if anything happens, 20,000+ miles later and its still going strong. To be honest it didn't sound all that bad to start with, just done as a precaution as one of the big problems with modern diesels is the chain stretching far enough to jump timing or snapping altogether.
@@MJF85 That's nice to hear and I love it.
Preventing potential bigger expenses is always in my book!
Just like headlights, it's such a simple thing to use some wax or very light abrasive(polish) and sealant to keep them nice.
Compared to yellowed and cloudy ones, you'll kinda have to change them cos it's never gonna look as good as new after you polish it off and seal it(uv protect).
Hi, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a crv and it sounds just like yours at the end of the video. I have made a short video th-cam.com/users/shortsX7usIjgKXrQ?feature=share
I don't have any symptoms just this annoying noise and I have the engine apart for some other work so wondering if it's worth doing the chain. Would appreciate any input. Thanks
I wouldn't worry too much unless you were doing high mileage in it, chains can last a long time and generally start rattling more before they give up completely.