I cut it myself. Unfortunately I really don’t know what kind it is. It was in some scrap sheet metal in a toolbox I picked up at a flea market. Seemed like it was from some sort of scraper. I just tested different pieces to find something that was stiff but still had some flex and straightened back to true each time.
@wmmaro I don’t use any drawings for my folders. I just make the design as I go. The very first folder I made was wooden. Just to learn the parts. I just found drawings online by just googling “folding knife plans”.
Yes. I annealed it before working with it. I’ve already heat treated it and tempered it once I was done getting everything shaped and fitted. I show that on some of videos. I just didn’t video the whole process this time.
There have been times I’ve just had to remake the rocker arm altogether. However if I have enough thickness to it I may file the hook of the lug a little deeper into the it basically making the lug larger in order to fit a little tighter. One thing I’ve gotten in the habit of doing is to leave the rocker arm thick until I get the lock (the lug into the notch) fitted right just so I have more to work with. One technique I’ve used a few times, is lay the rocker arm on its side and hammer the face of the lug (the part that inserts into the slot on the tang) a little to flare it out to tighten the fit in the notch on the tang. I hope that helps. Kind of hard to describe here. Feel free to email me at c4customknives@gmail.com. May be easier with images.
@@c4knives hello can you try making the cold steel Tri-ad backlock? It's the same as a back lock but with a thick stop pin th-cam.com/video/9YFsS6hwqfQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SY4xrB7Ah7Yvplnm
Do you make the spring or get them from somewhere?
I cut it myself. Unfortunately I really don’t know what kind it is. It was in some scrap sheet metal in a toolbox I picked up at a flea market. Seemed like it was from some sort of scraper. I just tested different pieces to find something that was stiff but still had some flex and straightened back to true each time.
@@c4knives which scrap piece did you use? And did you heat treatment it or anything?
Also what steel did you use for the back lock spine?
Was the coolant heat treated before starting work?
I’m assuming a typo there. I annealed the file before working with it. I then heat treated it and tempered it before assembly.
@@c4knivesI need a drawing for each part so I can print it and make something similar
@wmmaro I don’t use any drawings for my folders. I just make the design as I go. The very first folder I made was wooden. Just to learn the parts. I just found drawings online by just googling “folding knife plans”.
Do you need to heat treat the blade.
Yes. I annealed it before working with it. I’ve already heat treated it and tempered it once I was done getting everything shaped and fitted. I show that on some of videos. I just didn’t video the whole process this time.
@@c4knives I was going to ask how you filed a file with a file but you answered my question here !
I tried making my first kickback knife and the the the lock was loose on the blade how do I fix that?
There have been times I’ve just had to remake the rocker arm altogether. However if I have enough thickness to it I may file the hook of the lug a little deeper into the it basically making the lug larger in order to fit a little tighter. One thing I’ve gotten in the habit of doing is to leave the rocker arm thick until I get the lock (the lug into the notch) fitted right just so I have more to work with. One technique I’ve used a few times, is lay the rocker arm on its side and hammer the face of the lug (the part that inserts into the slot on the tang) a little to flare it out to tighten the fit in the notch on the tang. I hope that helps. Kind of hard to describe here. Feel free to email me at c4customknives@gmail.com. May be easier with images.
@@c4knives hello can you try making the cold steel Tri-ad backlock? It's the same as a back lock but with a thick stop pin
th-cam.com/video/9YFsS6hwqfQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SY4xrB7Ah7Yvplnm