Bro you’re so good at explaining. I am a MASTER ASE certified tech and worked for BMW for 12+ years. This was very informative. Keep up the good stuff.
10/10 for the effort put in to make this video. 7/8 for the accuracy of the information. ~ The idea of having the Crankcase under VAC, came from racing. In NA racecars if you can have VAC in the crankcase under WOT conditions, you will make more power. Period end of story. ~ The oil separators + CCV system in passenger cars is all about GREEN HOUSE GASES! ~ Best scenario in a FI'd engine is to vent to atmosphere. The goal is to be at atmospheric pressure at any boost level, even at idle. You could add an external VAC pump that keeps the crankcase under VAC, but this system is even not worth it for race cars. For the amount of money you'll invests to gain a HP, you may as well add a PSI and enjoy the saving and headaches. ~ if your theory of the turbos not being able to drain properly if not under VAC is true. How would be drain the turbos when we are on BOOST? under boost conditions the crankcase is at atmospheric pressure not even VAC bc per your explanation the check valve closes as soon at boost is present. so where is the VAC source to drain the turbos???? ~ The only way to get the crankcase under VAC is to suck air at the turbo inlets, or again an external VAC pump. BMW added a source of VAC on the rear turbo, where the heater is. But again this is to recirculate the crankcase gases and burn them before the contaminate the planet. IS ALL ABOUT THE E.P.A. or whatever GOV agency controls air pollutants in your country!
@@GolfWangWG Stock = ideal to save the environment | CCV Delete/venting to atmosphere = engine runs cleaner, better for power goals, easy to do a boost leak test if the intakes are upgraded & use t-bolt clamps, this is also on the engine seals,
@@RJTracing Understood. This being said would your run the VS pcv delete kit with catch can option before I place my order? At this point I’m banking on your reply
@@GolfWangWG That could work. I though about doing that but venting the catch can to atmosphere. Also venting the other port of the valve cover to atmosphere as well using the flapper delete kit.
@@RJTracing what about if you’re not running an oem valvecover like an m18 or vargas valve cover and you’re also single turbo, what do you suggest best setup would be for catch cans or venting to atmosphere.
Best N54 PCV explanation video!! I have a VVT modular valve cover with blocked low side ports and this really helped me with the kind of external setup I need..
Omg! I've been having issues with my car and figured out it is most likely the pcv valve, but I didn't really know much about the system, or what it does. Then I watched your video. It is so informative and really helped me understand how that system works. I feel alot more confident in moving forward with my project now.
Hands down the best pcv system video I have seen to date and these cars have been around for about 15 years. Well done! I wish you would make videos of this in depth explanations on all the systems in the vehicle especially vanos 😂
Fantastic, I have been trying to explain this to plenty of my N54 friends for a long time. Now I simply send them a link to your video, well done brilliant
Thank you !! I have been reading on this subject for quite some time. And frankly have become More confused as to what the conclusions are. This is a great explanation !!
Really appreciate this video. It was too bad I had bought the vador solutions pcv delete kit before seeing this video and found out the card way. Right after installing i went on a test drive for another mod that I installed and the car started smoking like crazy everytime I came to a stop, I was scared that my turbo seals had gone bad and the oil went down to 75 percent on the oil display and so I took that trash off my car and installed the oem pcv stuff back in and still hasn't lost any oil to this day. I lost almost 200 dollars on a kid that was worse for my engine and I hope this will prevent people from buying the pcv delete kits, at least the ones that don't jave a check valve at all
Great explanation, I have owned my E90 335 for 5 years now and never actually understood the whole system. Personally I left it stock and just clean my valves every 20k miles. Even with pure stage 2s I don't have any issues with smoking exhaust from oil or anything. I always assumed BMW knew what they were doing better than vendors trying to sell useless shit.
How bad was the smoke after replacing oil and cooler gasket, then the PCV the flapper is next but blowing out a lot of smoke hope this will take care of the smoke issue
Thanks I used some of the knowledge from this video, to change an improve the PCV system, when I fit 19T's they were fine until I did a secondary CAT delete, then Smokey on startup and commonly at lights, now I've increased the vacuum slightly from stock and I've blocked the head ports as well
Thank you for this video. So much misinformation about how the vacuum systems work. I literally gave up trying to explain it. Hopefully your video makes a compelling argument for the inexperienced and those who refuse to read. Liked and shared
That's if you remove the vacuum line from the rear intake. Your PCV still acts and works the same with a high side catch can just you put a can in the path like a filter to stop all the blow by and oil vapor getting in the rear turbos inlet.
can you provide links i have been working with n54s for while and i've been explaining this to a lot of people who just don't understand how it works and everyone even high end mechanics say its blown turbos more or less it could be but when they delete the flapper completely and it only smokes on idle and lowside use but not highside is a tell tail for me specially when most people have custom exh like me with separate exits and its highly unlikely in my opinion that both turbos would go out at the same time like you said tho if it goes long enough im sure turbos go out. ps what do you think about a single vented catch can with two ports for high and lowside utilizing the flapper valve for high and one way flow valve for low would that work do would low need a certain type of valve to keep the vacuum in the valve cover
Very detailed and well explained video. New to the N54 and this helped a lot. So as someone who doesnt drive their car hard, but is big on preventative maintenance, is a catch can unnecessary? The only reason I wanted to install one is to help keep the intake valves clean/not having to walnut blast them frequently.
Amazing video man, thank you very much for the great information. Makes me very glad that I have only done the RB PCV and none of the other propaganda spewed on the groups without evidence. Backed up by Mr. RB himself too!
Hi, F02 owner with the N54. I have slight black smoking on the right pipe only and that turbo wooosh after accelerating and pedal lift. Any ideas what it could be ? Thank you. Car is a late 2008 with around 110k miles, no whistling turbo, pulls like a train, no oil glitter, all seems fine except the above. Thanks
Hi Kyle, thank you for this video. I was having problem with my OFHG and Rear Main Seal, now in process of changing the parts. The rear main seal was pushed way out hence the massive leakage. I am worried that the crankcase pressure will push the seal out again and it’s quite an expensive repair. Is there anything I can do to prevent that happen? (for example the crankcase breather oil filler cap) I have already installed the RB valve and catch can on high side though i know not much of use for it.
Wonderful explanation. The only thing for me is plastic drives men crazy in a car and my original valve cover is past it's expected life and will need to be changed sometime soon. It would be nice not to have to put another plastic valve cover on. What would the set-up be for using an aluminum valve cover yet retaining the pcv system or are we stuck with the original plastic valve cover design?
I just bought the dual catch can system from BMS, not the only thing I’m confused about is the dual blow off valves that people add to the system. Is that needed or unnecessary, or damaging?
I was wondering which system is preferred or are they equally effective between the rb external dual catch can setup vs the Bms external dual can setup. From my understanding rb recommends the mishimoto catch can for the vacuum side can which is the primary difference. Does anyone know or can provide feedback if either system would be more effective?
You are a god among men. I just picked up a new billet aluminum valve cover, and it’s been tough. I KNOW I’m doing a dual catch can, plugging my block, etc. I just never really understood why. This makes a ton of sense. Appreciate the detailed, pragmatic analysis. Just to clarify. Running a crank case vent of any kind would be bad? Either on the oil cap OR on top of the catch cans. Does that effectively delete the pvc?
Thanks for your kind words 😀 If you add an extra vent, unless it has a check valve it will remove all vacuum so basically it will delete vacuum pcv. There isn't any data or testing to suggest that we need to add an extra vent, maybe for a 1000hp build with extra ring gap but for 99% of people I don't think it's required. The VTT oil cap breather is known for getting stuck open which will stop pcv from working and also VTT is garbage in general
Best video explanation ever, thank you for this, now what about if your single turbo and don’t have the stock valve cover anymore, i think you should make another video about single turno n54 and not oem valve covers, it would be great for your channel.
What are your thoughts on the vented oil cap ? Where it has a check valve to only open under the pressure? Isnt that more insurance to make sure crankcase doesn't build pressure?
I can't say I recommend it because there's absolutely no data behind it. No one has ever done any testing to see if it makes any difference at all. That, on top of the fact most of them don't work properly and get stuck open, if you ask VTT about it Tony will probably block you and add you to the famous do not sell list. It'll also most likely cover your cover with oil mist and if you care about health you'll end up with hydrocarbons in the cabin. If I had a 1000whp 40psi monster then maybe 🤷♂️
That's a very good explanation but I do have one question. On my n54 the high side I have it going to atmosphere and it seems like it's always smoking at low speeds like idling. I'm about to put a catch can on it, but I'm wondering if I have some defective flapper or some other component that may be causing this.
This might suggest that you have excess positive pressure, but could just be a defective flapper. I would certainly try replacing the flapper as a precaution. I recently checked mine which is only 2 years old and the flap has become sticky and wasn't closing. They're £38 from bmw dealer parts desk 👍 Remember, don't blow on the flapper to test that it's working or to just hear the flap open and close, as it wrecks them.
Very nice video!! I just changed the vent hose and the pcv valve in my z4 e89 and i noticed that the car is mach smoother at idle. What I noticed while blowing the new metal pcv valve is that on the factory one, from the side that is inside the valve cover you blow out much easier than on the metal one (from ebay brand: nicecnc). the factory pcv valve was new because i changed the valve cover since the old one cracked. does anybody know if this will be an issue at the pcv system?
Nothing, it's just part of having a turbod motor. All my turbos cars end up with oil in the fmic. If you are struggling with IAT and your fmic is old you could clean it out with petrol and let the excess dry. I have methanol injection so I don't bother.
great video, i keep getting 2D2E code Throttle Valve angle- intake manifold vaccum correction. I have replace my throttle body with new one and still getting code sometimes. Is this a PCV problem ? or a problem with my flapper valve ?
Do you think that weakening of the vacuum pressure i:e if there was a leak in the valve cover gasket /crack would have an effect on the dreaded waste gate rattle as in be a potential cause ?excellentVideo 👍
Thanks for this great video. I have a 50k miles well maintained N54...im confused if I should replace the PCV valve with a new stock one..or an RB/BMS. Also is the dual catch system only to reduce carbon build up or will it help the turbos?
I would suggest the RB/BMS PCV valve, the OEM BMW valve is plastic and seems to be low quality, you could always remove it and try blowing through it to see if it has any sort of leak or obstruction to verify. But if you plan on removing it I would go ahead and replace it with the RB/BMS valve anyways since they are quite affordable. As to the carbon build up, the dual catch can (from what I've heard) does reduce carbon buildup as any blowby/oily air has the gunk separated out (mostly) before being sucked through the rear inlet (then compressed by the rear turbo, and sent through the intercooler, charge pipe and intake manifold where the oil/carbon deposits build up on the valves). I believe the only way to completely solve the carbon build up issue is to go with a port injection kit which will clean the valves as it sprays.
@@sixsix5784 Thanks you for the info. Have an RB PCV ordered. I'm not having any issues currently...this is more about keeping things in good shape. Will go for the high and low catch cans in the future.
Very informative.. the first time I get to know how pcv system works! Is it possible for pcv delete to cause hesitation at the moment I step on the gas gently from stop especially when the AC is on?
Any kind of help on what to do for single turbo guys and what direction to go in for us? Routing back to the inlet of the turbo isn’t going to be an option anymore and I have a 10AN drain I don’t mind any smell or anything because race car and VTA is fine in my opinion Will I see problems ?
Will be fine, as said in the video I don't think high side rear inlet actually draws any measurable vacuum, a vta catch can is fine or exhaust venturi if you didn't like the smell (hydrocarbons very bad for you too I guess,) I'd still retain a vacuum side pcv just for the times you aren't in boost some singles can still be funny about propper drain
If my hose leading to the rear inlet is broken would that cause issues? I know you mentioned you dont think the rear turbo would apply enough vacuum to assist, but are is there any other reason i should replace that hose rather than leaving it open? (Ive left it open for about 3500km because my assumption was that it would cycle less oil through my intake and cause less buildup)
It depends, if it is broken after the flapper valve section it shouldn't cause an issue apart from maybe drawing in a bit of dirty air, if its before then you'll lose vacuum on the crank. Either way, it's around £35 odd from bmw part number 11157553949. Not the greatest idea to vent to atmosphere on a daily anyway, hydrocarbons can get into the cabin
Hi Kyle love the video ,absolutely perfectly explained, so I’m sitting with timing drop on silinder 5 some times at wot throttle and the reason is excess oil through the head ports, any advice on what you think of the low side catch can system that connects on the throttle to try and mitigate this issue ? Thanks
You can run low side as normal or with external pcv, As for high side you would either need to vent to atmosphere with a catch can, add a hole in the singles pod filter and vent there or maybe an exhaust venturi type setup. It depends how bothered you are about health
I changed my pcv valve with an ftp valve. The car now smells of oil especially coming from the bov on my chargepipe. No sign of oil loss either and no boost leaks. Any idea on what’s going on? Thanks!
You fixed a vacuum leak and now the oil that accumulated in all the hoses is being pushed around including out your blowoff valve. If you remove any of those hoses or charge pipe, throttle body, etc. you'll undoubtedly find oily sludge coating the inside of all of them.
Bro you’re so good at explaining. I am a MASTER ASE certified tech and worked for BMW for 12+ years. This was very informative. Keep up the good stuff.
Best explanation that I can find on the N54 PCV system.
10/10 for the effort put in to make this video.
7/8 for the accuracy of the information.
~ The idea of having the Crankcase under VAC, came from racing. In NA racecars if you can have VAC in the crankcase under WOT conditions, you will make more power. Period end of story.
~ The oil separators + CCV system in passenger cars is all about GREEN HOUSE GASES!
~ Best scenario in a FI'd engine is to vent to atmosphere. The goal is to be at atmospheric pressure at any boost level, even at idle. You could add an external VAC pump that keeps the crankcase under VAC, but this system is even not worth it for race cars. For the amount of money you'll invests to gain a HP, you may as well add a PSI and enjoy the saving and headaches.
~ if your theory of the turbos not being able to drain properly if not under VAC is true. How would be drain the turbos when we are on BOOST? under boost conditions the crankcase is at atmospheric pressure not even VAC bc per your explanation the check valve closes as soon at boost is present. so where is the VAC source to drain the turbos????
~ The only way to get the crankcase under VAC is to suck air at the turbo inlets, or again an external VAC pump. BMW added a source of VAC on the rear turbo, where the heater is. But again this is to recirculate the crankcase gases and burn them before the contaminate the planet.
IS ALL ABOUT THE E.P.A. or whatever GOV agency controls air pollutants in your country!
Soo is a PCV system ideal or no?
@@GolfWangWG Stock = ideal to save the environment | CCV Delete/venting to atmosphere = engine runs cleaner, better for power goals, easy to do a boost leak test if the intakes are upgraded & use t-bolt clamps, this is also on the engine seals,
@@RJTracing Understood. This being said would your run the VS pcv delete kit with catch can option before I place my order? At this point I’m banking on your reply
@@GolfWangWG That could work. I though about doing that but venting the catch can to atmosphere. Also venting the other port of the valve cover to atmosphere as well using the flapper delete kit.
@@RJTracing what about if you’re not running an oem valvecover like an m18 or vargas valve cover and you’re also single turbo, what do you suggest best setup would be for catch cans or venting to atmosphere.
Best N54 PCV explanation video!! I have a VVT modular valve cover with blocked low side ports and this really helped me with the kind of external setup I need..
Omg! I've been having issues with my car and figured out it is most likely the pcv valve, but I didn't really know much about the system, or what it does. Then I watched your video. It is so informative and really helped me understand how that system works. I feel alot more confident in moving forward with my project now.
Hands down the best pcv system video I have seen to date and these cars have been around for about 15 years. Well done! I wish you would make videos of this in depth explanations on all the systems in the vehicle especially vanos 😂
Fantastic, I have been trying to explain this to plenty of my N54 friends for a long time. Now I simply send them a link to your video, well done brilliant
Thank you !! I have been reading on this subject for quite some time. And frankly have become
More confused as to what the conclusions are. This is a great explanation !!
Get a oil catch can system. It's a cheap fix that has a great benefit as you can tell.
Really appreciate this video. It was too bad I had bought the vador solutions pcv delete kit before seeing this video and found out the card way. Right after installing i went on a test drive for another mod that I installed and the car started smoking like crazy everytime I came to a stop, I was scared that my turbo seals had gone bad and the oil went down to 75 percent on the oil display and so I took that trash off my car and installed the oem pcv stuff back in and still hasn't lost any oil to this day. I lost almost 200 dollars on a kid that was worse for my engine and I hope this will prevent people from buying the pcv delete kits, at least the ones that don't jave a check valve at all
From the engine bay or exhaust ?
Very informative! I realized my issues were related to VTA. I ended up going the RB route.
What issues were you experiencing
Great explanation, I have owned my E90 335 for 5 years now and never actually understood the whole system. Personally I left it stock and just clean my valves every 20k miles. Even with pure stage 2s I don't have any issues with smoking exhaust from oil or anything. I always assumed BMW knew what they were doing better than vendors trying to sell useless shit.
Quality content here, great descriptions, very informative on the PCV system!
Awesome video man! You should explain the modification options and get the facts straight! Thanks for the info!
best explanation out there, thank you
This video gave me the information that half a dozen others didn’t 🥴
Thank you for the thorough explanation & recommendation.
Great explanation! Hurts my soul to see these vented to atmosphere.
Why? Just means lots of cheap N54's on the market with blown turbo seals haha. More for me!
Great video, that explained the oil dripping coming out of the inlet hose over the down pipe for the rear turbo.
This fixed my smoking issue!!!
How bad was the smoke after replacing oil and cooler gasket, then the PCV the flapper is next but blowing out a lot of smoke hope this will take care of the smoke issue
What have you dont to stop it? I have smoke on decel
Thanks I used some of the knowledge from this video, to change an improve the PCV system, when I fit 19T's they were fine until I did a secondary CAT delete, then Smokey on startup and commonly at lights, now I've increased the vacuum slightly from stock and I've blocked the head ports as well
I wish I knew this info a long time ago. Thanks dude. This is priceless info.
OMG! never knew very much about the PCV, so thank you for this extensive explanation of the working of this system. You the man.
I was considering deleting pcv system, thank you for this information!
Thank you for this video. So much misinformation about how the vacuum systems work. I literally gave up trying to explain it. Hopefully your video makes a compelling argument for the inexperienced and those who refuse to read. Liked and shared
That's if you remove the vacuum line from the rear intake. Your PCV still acts and works the same with a high side catch can just you put a can in the path like a filter to stop all the blow by and oil vapor getting in the rear turbos inlet.
Super thankful for this video Kyle! So much good advice and info!
I'm so happy to have found this video
can you provide links i have been working with n54s for while and i've been explaining this to a lot of people who just don't understand how it works and everyone even high end mechanics say its blown turbos more or less it could be but when they delete the flapper completely and it only smokes on idle and lowside use but not highside is a tell tail for me specially when most people have custom exh like me with separate exits and its highly unlikely in my opinion that both turbos would go out at the same time like you said tho if it goes long enough im sure turbos go out. ps what do you think about a single vented catch can with two ports for high and lowside utilizing the flapper valve for high and one way flow valve for low would that work do would low need a certain type of valve to keep the vacuum in the valve cover
So if I have smoke coming out of my bank two intake cone, does thag mean I need a new valve cover?
Very detailed and well explained video. New to the N54 and this helped a lot.
So as someone who doesnt drive their car hard, but is big on preventative maintenance, is a catch can unnecessary? The only reason I wanted to install one is to help keep the intake valves clean/not having to walnut blast them frequently.
Great rundown of the N54 pcv system. 🙏
awesome info bro, i love the way you say boost
Amazing video man, thank you very much for the great information. Makes me very glad that I have only done the RB PCV and none of the other propaganda spewed on the groups without evidence. Backed up by Mr. RB himself too!
Will RB pcv help with white smoke coming out the exhaust please
great info, thanks! Made me thankful that i didnt listen to various people and just did the RB replacement valve and simple can. Great video.
Amazing info well done!!! Seriously great video well delivered information. I Hope this channel does well! Best of luck.
Hi, F02 owner with the N54. I have slight black smoking on the right pipe only and that turbo wooosh after accelerating and pedal lift. Any ideas what it could be ? Thank you. Car is a late 2008 with around 110k miles, no whistling turbo, pulls like a train, no oil glitter, all seems fine except the above. Thanks
Hi Kyle, thank you for this video.
I was having problem with my OFHG and Rear Main Seal, now in process of changing the parts. The rear main seal was pushed way out hence the massive leakage.
I am worried that the crankcase pressure will push the seal out again and it’s quite an expensive repair.
Is there anything I can do to prevent that happen?
(for example the crankcase breather oil filler cap)
I have already installed the RB valve and catch can on high side though i know not much of use for it.
Can you do this same video for an N55 PCV system? Its very different mainly because of valvetronic
Wonderful explanation. The only thing for me is plastic drives men crazy in a car and my original valve cover is past it's expected life and will need to be changed sometime soon. It would be nice not to have to put another plastic valve cover on. What would the set-up be for using an aluminum valve cover yet retaining the pcv system or are we stuck with the original plastic valve cover design?
As most said , very informative and presented nicely.
I have new vc new pcv vtt new gasket and it's still causing to much crankcase pressure with a squealing noise does anyone have info on it thanks
MORE N54 CONTENT !!!
I just bought the dual catch can system from BMS, not the only thing I’m confused about is the dual blow off valves that people add to the system. Is that needed or unnecessary, or damaging?
The pcv system, and the diverter valves / bovs are a separate system with a separate purpose
Great video! Well thought out insights and explanations.
I was wondering which system is preferred or are they equally effective between the rb external dual catch can setup vs the Bms external dual can setup. From my understanding rb recommends the mishimoto catch can for the vacuum side can which is the primary difference. Does anyone know or can provide feedback if either system would be more effective?
You are a god among men.
I just picked up a new billet aluminum valve cover, and it’s been tough. I KNOW I’m doing a dual catch can, plugging my block, etc. I just never really understood why.
This makes a ton of sense. Appreciate the detailed, pragmatic analysis.
Just to clarify. Running a crank case vent of any kind would be bad? Either on the oil cap OR on top of the catch cans. Does that effectively delete the pvc?
Thanks for your kind words 😀
If you add an extra vent, unless it has a check valve it will remove all vacuum so basically it will delete vacuum pcv.
There isn't any data or testing to suggest that we need to add an extra vent, maybe for a 1000hp build with extra ring gap but for 99% of people I don't think it's required. The VTT oil cap breather is known for getting stuck open which will stop pcv from working and also VTT is garbage in general
Yo G
Have ypu ever heard vc bolts backing out even with new bolts?
man why don't you make other videos
you did a great demo there! 👍👍🎈🎈
thanks for taking us to school, good stuff
Great video, thank you. So Chinese turbos tend to leak due to the lack of vacuum helping pull oil out?
Amazing video. Learned so much from this
Best video explanation ever, thank you for this, now what about if your single turbo and don’t have the stock valve cover anymore, i think you should make another video about single turno n54 and not oem valve covers, it would be great for your channel.
Did you find any answers to this?
What are your thoughts on the vented oil cap ? Where it has a check valve to only open under the pressure? Isnt that more insurance to make sure crankcase doesn't build pressure?
I can't say I recommend it because there's absolutely no data behind it. No one has ever done any testing to see if it makes any difference at all.
That, on top of the fact most of them don't work properly and get stuck open, if you ask VTT about it Tony will probably block you and add you to the famous do not sell list.
It'll also most likely cover your cover with oil mist and if you care about health you'll end up with hydrocarbons in the cabin.
If I had a 1000whp 40psi monster then maybe 🤷♂️
thanks man, learned alot
That's a very good explanation but I do have one question. On my n54 the high side I have it going to atmosphere and it seems like it's always smoking at low speeds like idling. I'm about to put a catch can on it, but I'm wondering if I have some defective flapper or some other component that may be causing this.
This might suggest that you have excess positive pressure, but could just be a defective flapper. I would certainly try replacing the flapper as a precaution. I recently checked mine which is only 2 years old and the flap has become sticky and wasn't closing. They're £38 from bmw dealer parts desk 👍
Remember, don't blow on the flapper to test that it's working or to just hear the flap open and close, as it wrecks them.
Excellent explanation, thank you so much. I noticed that my old and new pcv valve were leaking, could possibly explain why I still have vc oil leak.
So having a oil catch can is bad ???
No..deleting the pcv system and/or venting to atmosphere is bad. Reduces vacuum which can cause oil to gather at the turbo seals.
Very nice video!! I just changed the vent hose and the pcv valve in my z4 e89 and i noticed that the car is mach smoother at idle.
What I noticed while blowing the new metal pcv valve is that on the factory one, from the side that is inside the valve cover you blow out much easier than on the metal one (from ebay brand: nicecnc). the factory pcv valve was new because i changed the valve cover since the old one cracked. does anybody know if this will be an issue at the pcv system?
So, what can be done about the oil that collects in the fmic?
Nothing, it's just part of having a turbod motor. All my turbos cars end up with oil in the fmic. If you are struggling with IAT and your fmic is old you could clean it out with petrol and let the excess dry. I have methanol injection so I don't bother.
Thank you.
Great explanation. Thank you!
great video, i keep getting 2D2E code Throttle Valve angle- intake manifold vaccum correction. I have replace my throttle body with new one and still getting code sometimes. Is this a PCV problem ? or a problem with my flapper valve ?
Very helpful! thank you!
Very good explanation.
Thank you so much that was a great video!
you should make other informative videos. makes me intrigued on learning these engines
Wil there still be enough vacuum on the system after the low side external pcv is installed?
Very very very informative. Are you on N54 tech?
Can his cause rough idling issues?
Do you think that weakening of the vacuum pressure i:e if there was a leak in the valve cover gasket /crack would have an effect on the dreaded waste gate rattle as in be a potential cause ?excellentVideo 👍
Wastegate vacuum comes from the vacuum pump. Not from natural engine vacuum. Its not likely a cracked valve cover would cause wastegate rattle.
Kyle a question for you: Should the PCV completely block all gas or is a little leakage ok? Thank you
very informative, thanks.
Thanks for this great video. I have a 50k miles well maintained N54...im confused if I should replace the PCV valve with a new stock one..or an RB/BMS. Also is the dual catch system only to reduce carbon build up or will it help the turbos?
I would suggest the RB/BMS PCV valve, the OEM BMW valve is plastic and seems to be low quality, you could always remove it and try blowing through it to see if it has any sort of leak or obstruction to verify. But if you plan on removing it I would go ahead and replace it with the RB/BMS valve anyways since they are quite affordable. As to the carbon build up, the dual catch can (from what I've heard) does reduce carbon buildup as any blowby/oily air has the gunk separated out (mostly) before being sucked through the rear inlet (then compressed by the rear turbo, and sent through the intercooler, charge pipe and intake manifold where the oil/carbon deposits build up on the valves). I believe the only way to completely solve the carbon build up issue is to go with a port injection kit which will clean the valves as it sprays.
@@sixsix5784 Thanks you for the info. Have an RB PCV ordered. I'm not having any issues currently...this is more about keeping things in good shape. Will go for the high and low catch cans in the future.
More on n54, great vid
Very informative.. the first time I get to know how pcv system works!
Is it possible for pcv delete to cause hesitation at the moment I step on the gas gently from stop especially when the AC is on?
Thankyou and no it shouldn't cause that
with upgraded pcv, what is the max psi? runing with 17 is safe? just a MHD Stage 2+
Wow!! THANK YOU!!!! 😮🎉❤😊
Any kind of help on what to do for single turbo guys and what direction to go in for us? Routing back to the inlet of the turbo isn’t going to be an option anymore and I have a 10AN drain
I don’t mind any smell or anything because race car and VTA is fine in my opinion
Will I see problems ?
Will be fine, as said in the video I don't think high side rear inlet actually draws any measurable vacuum, a vta catch can is fine or exhaust venturi if you didn't like the smell (hydrocarbons very bad for you too I guess,)
I'd still retain a vacuum side pcv just for the times you aren't in boost some singles can still be funny about propper drain
If my hose leading to the rear inlet is broken would that cause issues? I know you mentioned you dont think the rear turbo would apply enough vacuum to assist, but are is there any other reason i should replace that hose rather than leaving it open? (Ive left it open for about 3500km because my assumption was that it would cycle less oil through my intake and cause less buildup)
It depends, if it is broken after the flapper valve section it shouldn't cause an issue apart from maybe drawing in a bit of dirty air, if its before then you'll lose vacuum on the crank. Either way, it's around £35 odd from bmw part number 11157553949.
Not the greatest idea to vent to atmosphere on a daily anyway, hydrocarbons can get into the cabin
Hi Kyle love the video ,absolutely perfectly explained, so I’m sitting with timing drop on silinder 5 some times at wot throttle and the reason is excess oil through the head ports, any advice on what you think of the low side catch can system that connects on the throttle to try and mitigate this issue ?
Thanks
awesome video.
Can that flapper cause a boost leak if it not on tightly
No, but it would cause a vac leak and cause low side pcv to not function properly, therefore turbo oil drain would be affected
@@19kylegreer96 thank you so much
@@19kylegreer96 Fixed my PCV Valve and caused my car to throw dust clouds full of white greyish smoke Flapper is next
Hey Kyle!! Big question here. How do you run a catch can on a single turbo N54
You can run low side as normal or with external pcv,
As for high side you would either need to vent to atmosphere with a catch can, add a hole in the singles pod filter and vent there or maybe an exhaust venturi type setup. It depends how bothered you are about health
I changed my pcv valve with an ftp valve. The car now smells of oil especially coming from the bov on my chargepipe. No sign of oil loss either and no boost leaks. Any idea on what’s going on? Thanks!
You fixed a vacuum leak and now the oil that accumulated in all the hoses is being pushed around including out your blowoff valve. If you remove any of those hoses or charge pipe, throttle body, etc. you'll undoubtedly find oily sludge coating the inside of all of them.
@@allmycarsisbroke so is it normal or is there any other problem? I did same thing but not my blow off is spraying oil mist everywhere
Thanks man
This video is a masterpiece... Congrats a thanks for sharing this...
thank you ...u r prof.
informative!
More video please