As someone who has been restoring antiques for 45+ years, I think I have a few useful things to add to this discussion. Don't use any kind of PVA or PU glue to make your own filler. They are plastic and non and don't take stain or move with the wood. For darker 'putty' add hide glue or mucilage to your dust. They aren't waterproof - and that's a good thing. For light colored wood, use shellac. It works best if you start with start with powdered shellac (It comes in various warm colors from pale yellow to red.) If you can't find that, get some clear shellac and let it dry out. Crush the crust to dust and add a tiny amount of denatured alcohol to the dust/shellac powder mix. If you live in a state that doesn't allow denatured alcohol (like California), you can use 99% isopropyl alcohol, of 100% ethanol (if you don't drink it all first.) It works best if you bring the putty close-to, but lighter than the final color before final staining. For that search alcohol-based pigmants. That place owned by that rich guy has them, but if you can find them locally, the knowledge you gain from the guy behind the counter will be worth the extra few dimes.
😲 David I read your comments good review! You must have learn from a master of the trade, you certainly know old-school techniques. I understand because I was a furniture restorer and studied under the late Enrico Liberti, kind of makes you think what's old is new and new is old. 😲 Thanks for sharing David!
I like the DIY filler best. Why? ... I don't have a busy shop like you and only need filler occasionally. Every time I buy expensive store-bought filler and try to use it a second time, it's dried out in the can. I always have glue and scrap wood on hand... Also, don't forget that you can mix a bit of water-based stain in with your filler to match wood colors. Happy filling!
I'm no woodworker but I work for a furniture company. I get better results with canned woodfiller which seem to be less "sandy". Only problem is when the crack is a little too wide. Filler contracts when drying and tends to crack itself as well.. solution I found is to fill the crack with wood splinters and glue. Once dry, I'll then finish the job with filler. I get them cracks to nearly disappear. :)
ANOTHER TIP :: Be proactive. I save my wood-dust collected in each of my sanders and put them in containers each time I empty/clean the tools. This way the I'm ready to make 'repair putty' anytime. Just remember to change empty the bag first if you are changing wood type so you can color-match.
Famo wood putty is a good product and it comes in many different colors and you can inter mix the putty to match the woods you're filling, weather the wood is raw or has a finish and you can get thinner to thin it depending on the situation! Saw dust and glue has been used for a long time, it's old school, you must use saw dust that from the wood you're working with! Good Video! 👍
Famowood fillers great stuff but you MUST buy the thinner or you will be disappointed. The bigger cans are a better buy. If you have lots of areas to fill (nail holes) put the filler in a zip lock baggie, cut the corner off and keep going with out the can drying out.
Have you tried filling the voids with just fine sawdust from the same wood then adding drops of super glue then heating it till dry with a heat gun then sanding? The color comes out perfectly matching the wood around the void.
Thanks for the video. Looking for a less toxic way to fill big voids in beams in a restoration project-less toxic than wood epoxy. I will look for your other video on voids, but definitely interested in combining sawdust with industrial glue. Thanks.
interesting that they all turned out a little darker once finish was on. I'm doing some homemade filler later today on a mahogany piece, sort of medium colored wood. I'm wondering if adding in some pine sawdust with the mahogany would get a better color match? For now I think I'll just do straight mahogany sawdust, but if it turns out a bit darker maybe in the future I'll experiment with lightening it.
I would assume it will always be a bit darker be Use it's basically all wood fiber. Kind of like end grain is darker than face grain because it's a lot more exposed fibers.
@@WalkersWoodworks I just finished up my woodfilling with mahogany sawdust... definitely darker than the rest of the piece. In the future I might try to experiment with adding some birch/pine/maple to darker woods.
@@WalkersWoodworks the end grain analogy makes sense... I just finished a piece and the end grain soaked up the finish and ended up darker than the rest of the piece.
I have some nail holes in our rear 6x6 deck posts that are on our porch . I removed the wood slats & 2x4 `s that left the holes in the posts after removing them & we are going to put a cable system in its place ... doing this like you made the wood filler , would this work well to fill the nail holes that we have instead of the wood putty in a can?
interesting, even the store bought fillers don't completely hide the cracks either. what if you were more liberal with the amount of filler you added? then slightly more aggressive with the sanding after
I gotta fill in some big ugly screw holes on a floor. I'll try sawdust method but would like to try and keep it lighter. Wondering if a dab of bleach after curing might drop it shades down?
how toxic smelling is epoxy. I don't really have any filtration or air movement in my garage (rental). Thank you for this very informative video. I can open the garage door and what about temperature for working with epoxy? I don't live in an overly cold climate but usually in the 40's during the winter.
What are you afraid of epoxy ? Seriously ! unless you're doing a huge pour like a quart or more you have nothing to worry about please tell me you don't use vinegar as a cleaner
Great video! Were you using TB III? Have you found differences between glues? I heard TB II is better for that than III? BTW I always end up buying III as I occasionally make a cutting boards. Thanks!
Holy shit. You got more money in clamps then my tools are worth. Have to ask, have you ever used them all. Let do you think having extra (being half joking)
Be sure to check out my website for other Projects, Blog posts, Plans and Tools I use! Walkersww.com
As someone who has been restoring antiques for 45+ years, I think I have a few useful things to add to this discussion.
Don't use any kind of PVA or PU glue to make your own filler. They are plastic and non and don't take stain or move with the wood.
For darker 'putty' add hide glue or mucilage to your dust. They aren't waterproof - and that's a good thing. For light colored wood, use shellac. It works best if you start with start with powdered shellac (It comes in various warm colors from pale yellow to red.) If you can't find that, get some clear shellac and let it dry out. Crush the crust to dust and add a tiny amount of denatured alcohol to the dust/shellac powder mix. If you live in a state that doesn't allow denatured alcohol (like California), you can use 99% isopropyl alcohol, of 100% ethanol (if you don't drink it all first.) It works best if you bring the putty close-to, but lighter than the final color before final staining. For that search alcohol-based pigmants. That place owned by that rich guy has them, but if you can find them locally, the knowledge you gain from the guy behind the counter will be worth the extra few dimes.
Wow I appreciate that info!!!
😲 David I read your comments good review!
You must have learn from a master of the trade, you certainly know old-school techniques. I understand because I was a furniture restorer and studied under the late Enrico Liberti, kind of makes you think what's old is new and new is old.
😲 Thanks for sharing David!
I like the DIY filler best. Why? ... I don't have a busy shop like you and only need filler occasionally. Every time I buy expensive store-bought filler and try to use it a second time, it's dried out in the can. I always have glue and scrap wood on hand... Also, don't forget that you can mix a bit of water-based stain in with your filler to match wood colors. Happy filling!
I'm no woodworker but I work for a furniture company. I get better results with canned woodfiller which seem to be less "sandy". Only problem is when the crack is a little too wide. Filler contracts when drying and tends to crack itself as well.. solution I found is to fill the crack with wood splinters and glue. Once dry, I'll then finish the job with filler. I get them cracks to nearly disappear. :)
This is why I save all my sawdust each color has it's own zip lock bag, nice demo thank you
Great idea!
ANOTHER TIP :: Be proactive. I save my wood-dust collected in each of my sanders and put them in containers each time I empty/clean the tools. This way the I'm ready to make 'repair putty' anytime. Just remember to change empty the bag first if you are changing wood type so you can color-match.
Thank you
Great idea; thanks!
FOR PEOPLE THAT DO THAT GOOD EXTEND!.. THANK GOD FOR YOUR BLESSINGS TO ALL OF US..
Famo wood putty is a good product and it comes in many different colors and you can inter mix the putty to match the woods you're filling, weather the wood is raw or has a finish and you can get thinner to thin it depending on the situation!
Saw dust and glue has been used for a long time, it's old school, you must use saw dust that from the wood you're working with!
Good Video! 👍
Wow! I love the wood shavings mixed with wood glue. Awesome idea ill use this on my next project.
It's my go to for sure.
For larger jobs, use a 400w coffee grinder on a handful of planer cuttings to get a great amount of dust when needed.
Thank you for the comparison video, I made up my mind and will go with the diy version for my desk made out of scrap wood pieces.
that was a very thorough comparison video from start to finish. thank you
Thank you!
Nice demo. A fair look at options. thanks.
Famowood fillers great stuff but you MUST buy the thinner or you will be disappointed. The bigger cans are a better buy. If you have lots of areas to fill (nail holes) put the filler in a zip lock baggie, cut the corner off and keep going with out the can drying out.
Good idea!
Have you tried filling the voids with just fine sawdust from the same wood then adding drops of super glue then heating it till dry with a heat gun then sanding? The color comes out perfectly matching the wood around the void.
I always use white glue and dust from the same type of wood, works great always.
Yea that's typically my go to as well.
Thanks for the video. Looking for a less toxic way to fill big voids in beams in a restoration project-less toxic than wood epoxy. I will look for your other video on voids, but definitely interested in combining sawdust with industrial glue. Thanks.
ELMER'S school glue is labeled non-toxic. I have successfully used it for 50 years on fine woodworking.
Straight to the point. no bs. thank you so much.
Thanks for the comparison! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thanks for watching!
Walkers Woodworks i have wood filler that dried out. What do i use to make it workable again?? Water, Alcohol, acetone???
Hi Thank you! great tips. I have a extra large wood cookie with a cavern of a split. Can I just pack it with wood filler? Thank you-
They are all good. Thank you.
Thank you for your video. It was very informative, and I like the comparisons.
interesting that they all turned out a little darker once finish was on. I'm doing some homemade filler later today on a mahogany piece, sort of medium colored wood. I'm wondering if adding in some pine sawdust with the mahogany would get a better color match? For now I think I'll just do straight mahogany sawdust, but if it turns out a bit darker maybe in the future I'll experiment with lightening it.
I would assume it will always be a bit darker be Use it's basically all wood fiber. Kind of like end grain is darker than face grain because it's a lot more exposed fibers.
@@WalkersWoodworks I just finished up my woodfilling with mahogany sawdust... definitely darker than the rest of the piece. In the future I might try to experiment with adding some birch/pine/maple to darker woods.
@@WalkersWoodworks the end grain analogy makes sense... I just finished a piece and the end grain soaked up the finish and ended up darker than the rest of the piece.
I sure appreciate your very informative videos! 🙂
I appreciate you watching!
Could you use epoxy to fill cracks and voids on high traffic paths of indoor wood floors?
I have some nail holes in our rear 6x6 deck posts that are on our porch . I removed the wood slats & 2x4 `s that left the holes in the posts after removing them & we are going to put a cable system in its place ... doing this like you made the wood filler , would this work well to fill the nail holes that we have instead of the wood putty in a can?
I’ve recently been filling with epoxy, sometimes I mix in some very fine dust.
Great comparison, Brandon. Thanks. Stay well. Bill
Thanks Bill! You too.
add acetone to the store bought stuff frequency it's one the products that you get more than you pay for
Superb instruction.
Nice one mate 👍
Thank you!
interesting, even the store bought fillers don't completely hide the cracks either.
what if you were more liberal with the amount of filler you added? then slightly more aggressive with the sanding after
I gotta fill in some big ugly screw holes on a floor. I'll try sawdust method but would like to try and keep it lighter. Wondering if a dab of bleach after curing might drop it shades down?
Ty!!
Cool Thanks
Why didn't the glue diy version block the finish from penetrating the wood? Is it related to the brand of glue used, or what?
It's because it's mixed with sawdust so the finish saturates the wood fibers in the glue 👍
Good tips 👍👍
how toxic smelling is epoxy. I don't really have any filtration or air movement in my garage (rental). Thank you for this very informative video. I can open the garage door and what about temperature for working with epoxy? I don't live in an overly cold climate but usually in the 40's during the winter.
I'd recommend wearing a respirator.
What are you afraid of epoxy ? Seriously ! unless you're doing a huge pour like a quart or more you have nothing to worry about please tell me you don't use vinegar as a cleaner
Epoxy is low toxicity stuff. Minimal smell. Can eat off it once cured. Safer than polyurethane.
The glue saw dust wood filler is much durable.
what filler would you use to build up a corner?
At that point I'd probably try to repair it with wood.
But you could try the famowood.
what is the best stainable wood glue for the DIY?
Glue isn't really stainable. That's why you mix the sawdust in it.
Sounds like Jim from The Office!
Haha that's a new one.
Good info. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Well that just a littel
Tho ! I need a lot , will it dry if i put it in a jar
Yea probably so.
Eclxcellent video, brother
Thanks Jesse!
Outstanding content in every clip! Thanks for sharing. Like and sub for you today!
Thank you!!!!
Great video! Were you using TB III? Have you found differences between glues? I heard TB II is better for that than III? BTW I always end up buying III as I occasionally make a cutting boards. Thanks!
I really only use 3 because it isn't yellow lol
دمت گرم.خیلی عالی بود رفیق.
if i want to do shou sugi ban do i fill the cracks 1st or do I burn the wood and i fix cracks after ?
Good question. I've never done it so I'm not sure. 🤷♂️
Great, informative video.
If the glue is strong than the wood. Why not just make the project out of glue instead of wood?
Glue is stronger than natural lignin which keeps wood fibers together, but not stronger than wood fibers themselves
Holy shit. You got more money in clamps then my tools are worth. Have to ask, have you ever used them all. Let do you think having extra (being half joking)
Are you kidding? There are NEVER enough clamps in a shop.