I hope Power Nation is always around and never changes. I love watching these shows ( even the stuff that I’m not 💯 on) and the way the put them out is great.
I cannot believe that they did not do anything about the rust that they welded a new piece of sheet metal over. I'm talking about the kick panel. Everything behind it was completely rusted and yet nothing was done to stop it from continuing. I think that's more DIY than professionals working on something. no wonder this show is no longer available on a real network on television.
@@bigboreracing356, put a HD AT in with a large trans cooler or twin coolers, oil cooler, ps cooler, wire up Electric fans and svc the trans 1-1.5 years, no problem
much better than previous episodes.... one big thing you didn't do is rust converter.. you really need to do that then paint it with some rustolium and shoot some body cavity wax in there... i understand you aren't doing a restoration but really its spray at the end of the day and overnight and weld the next day... please spray the underside of that truck... I suggest SEM RustMort or you can mix your own by getting a quart of food grade phosphoric acid off amazon much cheaper and mixing it as a 15% acid /water solution let it sit until its dark gray... wire brushing before would be nice but not necessarily needed
Rebuilding that cab brings back memories of my 86' K10. I had to replace all the same parts & hang new fenders. It's a lot of work, but I can been there done that!!! Love the videos guys!!!!!!!!!!!
I was just wondering if you used rust converter on the rusty metal to help preserve it and weld through primer on the metal where you welded. Also seam sealer. I realize you are not restoring it but a couple of hours more of work would be worth it.
probably realized that their butchered halfass frame 'repair' wouldnt hold that kind of power and the rest of the frame was never really checked anyway
Being my project I would torque everything to prevent thread stripping or bolt stretching... I would also clean the rust off the chassis where im welding. Cotter pins? Use visegrip needlenose
One note on the rosette spot welds. Make sure you draw an arc from the center of the solid panel then work outwards to the drilled hole. If you strike an arc at the edge of the drilled hole first, all you end up doing is filling the hole and won't get much if any penetration on the solid panel.
Honestly, Im afraid that 3/16 wall isn't strong enough to support a heaving vehicle (like the old land yachts: lincolns, caddies, ect), without buckling. It looks like the original frame walls were taller, is that an issue?
One tip for doing those tie rods and i've done this on my car a few times now, and it saves SO much hassle when having to adjust later down the line. When you get new liinks, fill the female threads with a good hosing of motorcycle chain lube. it seems daft, but this seals the thread and stops water getting in. Can confirm that a few years down the line, they're still moving freely when being adjusted with no need to break out the torches :)
Okay, but how are you gonna get the wrecker to work without the PTO from the old four speed? Not only would the truck be infinitely cooler with all of the pedals.. I don't think your auto has a PTO port.
@@BuzzLOLOL with that socalled frame 'repair' and the rust, I wouldn't trust that truck to pick up a gutted toyota celica shell. Maybe a shopping cart 🤣
I’ve been driving around with 1 motor mount bolt on my truck because I had the same problem with no solution. Now I know to loosen the chassis side of the mount🤣
Was thinking the same thing. As bad a that front end looked I can't imagine the ball joints and bushing being Ok. Rock Auto has a half and 3/4 tons kit with all that.
Agree, I'm sitting over here on the west cost, 3 rust free square body cabs. Thinking, I've scrapped cabs with a corner rusted out... They're not that rare yet... I'm just not a patina fan, I guess...
I’m worried that if the floorboard were to fall through while someone was driving it-their feet would go through and drag the pavement-they’d be like Fred Flintstone driving-and their shoes would be wore to their bare feet-and the friction between the pavement and feet would make their feet hot and be on fire!
I'm really surpeised they didn't use rust converter and protective primer on the areas with surface rust. That driver footwell area looks like it will just rust through down the road.
I found it tough to watch them laying new metal over old rusty stuff as well. Rust converter is a huge improvement and cheap as well. You don't even have to be picky, just spray it everywhere. They also put all that steering stuff on doing nothing to address all the crusty up front.
I love your show and all of the other people you interact with you put new life into things that are thrown away. Don't get rid of that 305 make something of it!!. If you ever wanted to go out side of your comfort zone i have a task i know everyone will get kick out of. Just respond when you can. Tony. Kernersville NC
By putting in that universal flimsy crossmember, they took alot of the structure out of that frame and it will twist and possibly cause issues down the road, theres a good reason why the factory crossmember has like 4 braces and is extremely heavy and way over built, now the frame is going to transfer more load onto the cab mounts.
@@bigboreracing356 that still doesnt make it right, if you have ever had to drop a crossmember on one of these old c30s you would understand, it takes a solid 30min to 1hr to get the factory one out because there a 4 braces that link it to the frame and it is very difficult to remove, even though they wont use the thing it still was a bad idea, they should have just welded a mount for the automatic to the stick crossmember.
@@bigboreracing356 obviously nothing it's not my project, I just hope that others see this and dont try it them selves at home because if this was serious workhorse or tow truck in general there will be problems from their crossmember, the frames in these trucks are pretty flimsy.
@@bigboreracing356 I know man, they really shouldn't let people at home think that doing that is OK, I guarantee that if they actually used this to tow cars with regularly they will have cab and frame twisting/flexing issues. I have been around tow trucks all my life and have seen many of these squarebody chevys and fords with broken frames and them taking out half the reinforcement structure isn't going to do it any good plus they pick the weakest auto transmission on the planet so they did alot more harm than good.
@@bigboreracing356 also the factory didnt use just 2 bolts, they didnt show the factory crossmember, they were using one of the bolt hole sets for the crossmember gussets, if you dont believe me google or crawl underneath an old c30 and take a look for your self, you will be amazed how many braces there are. I have done several clutch jobs on these trucks and you can easily spend over an hour getting the old crossmember out.
@@bigboreracing356 I'm not referring to them having too much power because they dont have much at all, I'm referring to frame flex from hauling cars or being put under heavy towing. The frames on the trucks are so flimsy that they flex and creak when you jack them up and set them on jack stands, I have seen multiple c30 frames broken right behind the control arm mounts when the frame turns down and right behind the cab. It's not at all a HP thing but when they took on this project they said they wanted to tow cars with it from time to time and these frames are not as strong as you would think.
there is an difference in the motor mounts that bolt to the block. A truck mount is deeper than a car mount. You need to change them out or you are going to wreck the motor mount on the frame. Put them side by side and you can se the difference.
You replace the rear springs with new pieces you replace the shocks you replace the power steering pump you replace inner and outer tie rod and center link Pittman arm and idler arm but you're not going to replace the upper lower ball joints and springs an upper and lower control arm bushings especially if you want to do an alignment
they didnt install any PTO. got lazy, went electric winch route. episode aired on tv where they 'rebuilt' the tow assembly, installed the electric winch, rigged up marine switches or something where the original winch controls are
You think by now they male a full front replacement panel including the hump. make things so much easier, sense they all rust pretty much same place. nice work
I hope they realize that putting an automatic in is going to change the gear ratio .... dramatically... most likely has a 4:10 , putting a high performance transmission, and a 350 isnt going to solve anything .
Do you clean up and prime that old rusty metal; that you are putting those new pans on ? We want new dash, stereo with bluetoooth, & some AC for hot days ,retro parts ?
@@BuzzLOLOL i don't need patch panels i have tons of parts real oem parts and it is a lot cheaper to build a rust free rig then put the hrs in a build just to fix rust and patch panels are not cheap . so i have no idea y u would say that .
@@melissaweidman3326 - Don't you realize these car magazines and videos are basically infomercials? Most of the people are actors, not really car/truck enthusiasts... Like David Hasselhof says: "I don't really know how to do anything, I just look good doing it".
There might be a good reason behind it, but it seems odd to me to use a 700R4 for heavy duty towing or even behind a dually. I would have used a TH400 and called it a day.
The 700R4 has overdrive and provisions for a lockup converter making it reasonable for highway use and has a low 1st gear that helps get things moving. The TH400 only has strength going for it but an aftermarket 700R4 can be built pretty strong.
Where the hell is the big block that Engine Power built for this truck???
Probably comes later... this is likely an ancient episode...
I hope Power Nation is always around and never changes. I love watching these shows ( even the stuff that I’m not 💯 on) and the way the put them out is great.
Installing a complete fuel system (and engine/ trans) before welding floor pans seems backward.
that sweet transition at 19:50, good job camera guy and editor
That 51 Tennessee tag is actually very rare. It's a National Championship tag for UT. Hang on to it!
I cannot believe that they did not do anything about the rust that they welded a new piece of sheet metal over. I'm talking about the kick panel. Everything behind it was completely rusted and yet nothing was done to stop it from continuing. I think that's more DIY than professionals working on something. no wonder this show is no longer available on a real network on television.
Removing the PTO was a big mistake imo
I have driven tow trucks with automatics sucks dont feel like you have as much control
@@bigboreracing356, put a HD AT in with a large trans cooler or twin coolers, oil cooler, ps cooler, wire up Electric fans and svc the trans 1-1.5 years, no problem
yessir
much better than previous episodes.... one big thing you didn't do is rust converter.. you really need to do that then paint it with some rustolium and shoot some body cavity wax in there... i understand you aren't doing a restoration but really its spray at the end of the day and overnight and weld the next day... please spray the underside of that truck... I suggest SEM RustMort or you can mix your own by getting a quart of food grade phosphoric acid off amazon much cheaper and mixing it as a 15% acid /water solution let it sit until its dark gray... wire brushing before would be nice but not necessarily needed
Spray it down with fluid film.
@@kraigstengrim2072 no that stuff is garbage ... i am a former autobody tech ... you use the right stuff
Thank you for retooling the format and ditching the reality show vib. Now have a show I can watch.
Is that whats different?
Feels different.
Watched for the info.. Not personality
Rebuilding that cab brings back memories of my 86' K10. I had to replace all the same parts & hang new fenders. It's a lot of work, but I can been there done that!!! Love the videos guys!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope you put Rust Converter inside... like they didn't...
You guys take on projects that I couldn’t even begin to cypher out.
It’s nice to see that American iron come back to life.
Should have kept the manual gearbox....🤦🏻♂️
I mean, why?
Cant attach a PTO on a 700r4
Exactly
I was just wondering if you used rust converter on the rusty metal to help preserve it and weld through primer on the metal where you welded. Also seam sealer. I realize you are not restoring it but a couple of hours more of work would be worth it.
I like these videos, just wish you would of done some sort of Corrosion Control on the inside of the kick panel, etc......
Yeah, I cringed at 17:55 and beyond...
Glad to see that plug welding technique used today, Thanks!
Patina... code words for too cheap to paint
Not everyone wants some high maintenance paint job, not to mention damn near every painter I’ve met is an absolute scumbag druggy or crook.
just a curious question why didnt you clean the rust from the metal under the pannels? just seems like a good way to let the rust grow.
Very close to 1 million. Only 158k away. HELLO
I thought the tow truck was getting a 600+ci big block?
@@thomasdaddio741
It wasn't Detroit Muscle, it was Engine Power.
probably realized that their butchered halfass frame 'repair' wouldnt hold that kind of power and the rest of the frame was never really checked anyway
10 minutes with a paintbrush and some POR15 instead of trapping all that rust inside the new panels would have been a good idea.
Yes sir that made the hair on my neck stand!!
@@dalelallred all they did was make sure those new panels won't last long.
@@bigboreracing356 doesn't matter, it's a show on how to restore something. If you're going to do something, do it right.
@@bigboreracing356 if you have to ask why, when doing anything you should do it right the first time, you probably shouldn't be working on a vehicle.
Being my project I would torque everything to prevent thread stripping or bolt stretching...
I would also clean the rust off the chassis where im welding.
Cotter pins? Use visegrip needlenose
You guys always put a smile on my face! Super cool projects!
17:55 They do nothing about all the internal rust they expose !!!
I love this build so far
One note on the rosette spot welds. Make sure you draw an arc from the center of the solid panel then work outwards to the drilled hole. If you strike an arc at the edge of the drilled hole first, all you end up doing is filling the hole and won't get much if any penetration on the solid panel.
Honestly, Im afraid that 3/16 wall isn't strong enough to support a heaving vehicle (like the old land yachts: lincolns, caddies, ect), without buckling.
It looks like the original frame walls were taller, is that an issue?
Did you see all that rust they left behind the kick panel? Those floors will be rusted out in a couple years.
One tip for doing those tie rods and i've done this on my car a few times now, and it saves SO much hassle when having to adjust later down the line.
When you get new liinks, fill the female threads with a good hosing of motorcycle chain lube. it seems daft, but this seals the thread and stops water getting in.
Can confirm that a few years down the line, they're still moving freely when being adjusted with no need to break out the torches :)
Okay, but how are you gonna get the wrecker to work without the PTO from the old four speed?
Not only would the truck be infinitely cooler with all of the pedals.. I don't think your auto has a PTO port.
very good show. Put together and edited well and very educational.
So what happened to the 632 cubic inch big block that was repurposed and set up for this truck in the show 6 months ago!??
I guess you have a valid reason for not applying some form of rust killer to the exposed parts that are no longer exposed .
Yeah... pretty stupid...
Wouldn't you want to measure between the grease zerks on the back of the tie rod ends and not the movable ball and socket tip?
Ok but going from a manual to an auto how are they going to run the PTO (power take off)?
electric winch, the episodes are out of order. they alreaady 'rebuilt' the tow frame, rigged up an electric winch
It's all just for looks...
@@BuzzLOLOL with that socalled frame 'repair' and the rust, I wouldn't trust that truck to pick up a gutted toyota celica shell. Maybe a shopping cart 🤣
@@harveylong5878 - I think it's just a novelty truck for car/truck shows... and to sell their sponsors' patch panels...
Engine install first, suspension second, and new floors last? Seems exactly backwards to me
I bet as kids they ate their desserts first.
Yes, but that’s how the real world does it!
Nice. . .this reminded me of old school Roadkill. . shiny parts on piles of rust. . . hahahha Love it !
I thought a big block was going in.
I hope y'all plated the frame when you mounted the new steering box. Those frames are known to fatigue and crack
You two are the only car and hot rod show that I can't stand to watch.
I’ve been driving around with 1 motor mount bolt on my truck because I had the same problem with no solution. Now I know to loosen the chassis side of the mount🤣
Got the same bilstein shocks on my ranger. Made such a difference. No longer feels like a school bus.
Talk about a rust bucket...this truck is king of the rust buckets..should of been towed back to the junkyard
You keep forgetting that rust is hip now. Patina is an old English word for lazy and cheap.
I was hoping all the front end chassis rust would of been addressed. But the new format is much better and watchable.
Going to be a cool build!!!!!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍👍
I didn't understand why you replaced the steering, without replacing the A-frame bushings while you had everything apart
Was thinking the same thing. As bad a that front end looked I can't imagine the ball joints and bushing being Ok. Rock Auto has a half and 3/4 tons kit with all that.
Hold up. Where's that monster Horse Power rebuilt for it?
She's comin along great, guys!
This show just might have found a neat angle . Just restoring old Work Vehicles,l .love it
Didn't they build a motor for this truck on engine masters??
It would be a lot easier to replace the cab than do all that rust repair.
Agree, I'm sitting over here on the west cost, 3 rust free square body cabs. Thinking, I've scrapped cabs with a corner rusted out... They're not that rare yet... I'm just not a patina fan, I guess...
Their sponsor is selling patch panels...
I’m worried that if the floorboard were to fall through while someone was driving it-their feet would go through and drag the pavement-they’d be like Fred Flintstone driving-and their shoes would be wore to their bare feet-and the friction between the pavement and feet would make their feet hot and be on fire!
Should’ve used a clutch fan
In the future.. Two video ideas..
1. Aligning doors fenders and hood.
2. ReApholstering pre 80s bench seats.( couldnt find anything for my 62)
Are you going too do a rust stop work on the chassis and cab area?
Probably not... look at 17:55 also...
I'm really surpeised they didn't use rust converter and protective primer on the areas with surface rust. That driver footwell area looks like it will just rust through down the road.
I found it tough to watch them laying new metal over old rusty stuff as well. Rust converter is a huge improvement and cheap as well. You don't even have to be picky, just spray it everywhere. They also put all that steering stuff on doing nothing to address all the crusty up front.
Looking forward to seeing her back together.
Every time Jeremy says "Smashing that subscribe button," it makes me want to unsubscribe...
every channel is saying it. It really does encourage subscriptions and works. unsub out of spite if you want, I doubt they care.
I love your show and all of the other people you interact with you put new life into things that are thrown away. Don't get rid of that 305 make something of it!!. If you ever wanted to go out side of your comfort zone i have a task i know everyone will get kick out of. Just respond when you can. Tony. Kernersville NC
By putting in that universal flimsy crossmember, they took alot of the structure out of that frame and it will twist and possibly cause issues down the road, theres a good reason why the factory crossmember has like 4 braces and is extremely heavy and way over built, now the frame is going to transfer more load onto the cab mounts.
@@bigboreracing356 that still doesnt make it right, if you have ever had to drop a crossmember on one of these old c30s you would understand, it takes a solid 30min to 1hr to get the factory one out because there a 4 braces that link it to the frame and it is very difficult to remove, even though they wont use the thing it still was a bad idea, they should have just welded a mount for the automatic to the stick crossmember.
@@bigboreracing356 obviously nothing it's not my project, I just hope that others see this and dont try it them selves at home because if this was serious workhorse or tow truck in general there will be problems from their crossmember, the frames in these trucks are pretty flimsy.
@@bigboreracing356 I know man, they really shouldn't let people at home think that doing that is OK, I guarantee that if they actually used this to tow cars with regularly they will have cab and frame twisting/flexing issues. I have been around tow trucks all my life and have seen many of these squarebody chevys and fords with broken frames and them taking out half the reinforcement structure isn't going to do it any good plus they pick the weakest auto transmission on the planet so they did alot more harm than good.
@@bigboreracing356 also the factory didnt use just 2 bolts, they didnt show the factory crossmember, they were using one of the bolt hole sets for the crossmember gussets, if you dont believe me google or crawl underneath an old c30 and take a look for your self, you will be amazed how many braces there are. I have done several clutch jobs on these trucks and you can easily spend over an hour getting the old crossmember out.
@@bigboreracing356 I'm not referring to them having too much power because they dont have much at all, I'm referring to frame flex from hauling cars or being put under heavy towing. The frames on the trucks are so flimsy that they flex and creak when you jack them up and set them on jack stands, I have seen multiple c30 frames broken right behind the control arm mounts when the frame turns down and right behind the cab. It's not at all a HP thing but when they took on this project they said they wanted to tow cars with it from time to time and these frames are not as strong as you would think.
there is an difference in the motor mounts that bolt to the block. A truck mount is deeper than a car mount. You need to change them out or you are going to wreck the motor mount on the frame.
Put them side by side and you can se the difference.
You replace the rear springs with new pieces you replace the shocks you replace the power steering pump you replace inner and outer tie rod and center link Pittman arm and idler arm but you're not going to replace the upper lower ball joints and springs an upper and lower control arm bushings especially if you want to do an alignment
you guys do know they sell new cabs for that, right?
What happen to the big block they built for it I won't to see it go in
Coming together nicely
I didn't notice how/where you installed the PTO to drive the winch for the wrecker boom; front-of-engine, or transmission?
they didnt install any PTO. got lazy, went electric winch route. episode aired on tv where they 'rebuilt' the tow assembly, installed the electric winch, rigged up marine switches or something where the original winch controls are
What happened to the big block you said was going to go into this truck?
Pretty sure all these Episodes are from 5+ Yrs ago. But i like the way they are welding and reinstalling the Cab Metal. Almost like factory!
Except no rust converter at 17:55...
Switching to an auto was a mistake in my opinion. It’s so hard to find decent trucks because everyone swaps to an auto now😞
Word!!! That was an SM465, I’ll take it any day over any automatic!
I hope that rust is thick enuf to hold all those new parts...
Do you "clean up" all the pieces (frame) before adding new shit??????????
I thought Pat was building you an engine.
Excellent episode!
You think by now they male a full front replacement panel including the hump. make things so much easier, sense they all rust pretty much same place. nice work
What happen to that big block you was supposed to put in it
I only wished they had kept the 4 speed manual. MANUALS FOREVER!
I hope they realize that putting an automatic in is going to change the gear ratio .... dramatically... most likely has a 4:10 , putting a high performance transmission, and a 350 isnt going to solve anything .
No way a tow truck had a 305 in it. Come on guys
Livin the gm life 🤣 boat anchor..
Nah that's the Dodg.......I mean FIAT life.
Boat anchor 👍
@@bigboreracing356 1st gen for life 🤘lol 😆😅😂😅🤣😂😂
Do you clean up and prime that old rusty metal; that you are putting those new pans on ? We want new dash, stereo with bluetoooth, & some AC for hot days ,retro parts ?
has anyone got a good idea of a high revving about 270-350hp dirt track motor 350
Is the tree fitty chevy the best choice
i wonder what u guys would buy a rust free clean body pu i have a few of them just sitting from a 65 to 79 i collect them
Their sponsor sells patch panels...
@@BuzzLOLOL i don't need patch panels i have tons of parts real oem parts and it is a lot cheaper to build a rust free rig then put the hrs in a build just to fix rust and patch panels are not cheap . so i have no idea y u would say that .
@@melissaweidman3326 - Don't you realize these car magazines and videos are basically infomercials? Most of the people are actors, not really car/truck enthusiasts...
Like David Hasselhof says: "I don't really know how to do anything, I just look good doing it".
So no rust treatment? Just slapping new metal plates over rusted out frames and braces?
They are not doing full restoration. There leaving it original so it looks like old school tow truck.
What about the sway bar?
05:18 - something that all ford and chevy owners know all too well.
How will they operate the winch without the PTO?
Just for looks
Now how are you going to run your PTO winch without a PTO?!?! Should have stuck with the stock trans/PTO!
I thought this was getting the big block?
LOL Treat the rust before you weld in patch panels wth
I was thinking the same thing.
Why don’t you guys ever use a manual transmission?
Good build overall though
They don't know how to shift one...
where the big block for this project !!!!!!!??????
What happened to that massive big block you guys we're going to put it
There might be a good reason behind it, but it seems odd to me to use a 700R4 for heavy duty towing or even behind a dually. I would have used a TH400 and called it a day.
The 700R4 has overdrive and provisions for a lockup converter making it reasonable for highway use and has a low 1st gear that helps get things moving. The TH400 only has strength going for it but an aftermarket 700R4 can be built pretty strong.
What happened to the 632
What happened to the one they built you on engine power ???
Hate what you done to the chasis. Also why not to fix the rust before adding new parts
The motor might work my transmission might not the old one has PTO hydraulic controlled by the transmission
GM set up its "squarebody" trucks, as the kids call them now, to fit big blocks. The 6.2 Detroit thus was made the same size as a big block.
The winch on the tow truck is hydraulically controlled via PTO on a transmission
Not any more...
I just wish y’all can be My neighbors that’s all y’all Rock 🎸 please don’t stop 🛑 making videos 🤙