Yeah, let's give them a house were they have to install it on an exterior wall where the walls are 8 ft tall and the ceiling is 10 ft tall and the wall has firebreaks in it. You can't crawl down to the header of the wall since the roof is there and even if you could, there's not enough room to run an extended length drill bit to drill a hole in the firebreak.
This old house might want to look into replacing bathroom fans with one that is turned on with humidity, it would be very economical and reduce mould and mildew in bathrooms as many new style bathrooms have the light switch and fan connected or they are like the old style homes where they are seperate, the retro fitted ones are usually ran with a switch that's sometimes in unusual places. How the fan works is that it detects the moisture in the air and turns on automatically, once the moisture is down to a certain level, it turns off. making it ecenomical and quite safe
These are good in theory, but a lot of homeowners use the exhaust fan when they use the toilet (even if they're not taking a 💩). A humidity switch is a hassle to the homeowner where one fan serves dual purpose. A standard timer is still a better option, IMO, for this application. The humidity sensor is a good idea if the bathroom has two fans on separate circuits (one for toilet, one for shower).
That's pretty much always true with this guy!! Hell most the electricians that come to defend seem retarded. I guess to get a license as an electrician the exam has a minimum number of questions you have to get wrong to pass!!
@@jfmc2581 I'm having a hard time believing any trade worker would work their 8 hours then head to the youtube to comment on trade work. "In my 110 years of being a plumber...." I'm calling bullshit!
What was done to cover up the hole in the wall where the cable was fed to the wall heater? Was there a recessed wall plate used or a feed-through bushing? Was it caulked?
I have a basement full bath and built the room over the big return pipe for the steam radiators. Enclosed the radiator pipes in drywall box with vents tand that heats the bathroom fine.
Hi don't you need a separate or dedicated breaker for that i need to install some in my house so if i connect it to any out let is that gonna be ok some one said that you not have to use that outlet for anything else thx
This draws 3 amps, it's meant to be operational 24x7 so it doesn't blast heat out like a regular portable 12 amp for spot treatment. 3 amps is below threshold needed for a dedicated line.
Did anyone notice the outlet with the missing cover at 0:32 I also think it was pointless to replace only the one outlet with a tamper resistant one as she still has to use the plug covers in the rest of them
That is what a thermostat does... It will turn off the heater when the temperature is above the set temperature, then turn it on when it is below that set temperatusre.. That click, is the switch inside the thermostat turning on or off.
He said box wasn’t nailed to 2x4. I find it crazy that someone would build a room without considering HVAC. Also, installing an inferior electric heater on “shared” wiring not considering AMPS or the overall load on existing 14-2 wiring. Definitely not the way I would install!! Needs dedicated 120v circuit IMO.
He said it’s an old work box. That means it was added after framing and thus not nailed into the stud. Old work boxes are held in place with tabs that fold up behind the Sheetrock, no nails
He laterally said in the video that it was an old work box. It was added after the dry wall was put up. Old work boxes work by clamping onto the wall surface. If it was a new work box, you would simply use a reciprocating saw to cut the nails holding it to the stud.
It would be a good idea to replace that outlet with a GFCI outlet. That way if any water fall in the heater there is no risk of anyone being electrocuted.
I didn't think he would tap into another outlet. What is that outlet gets overloaded and trips the beaker with the heater on? I would have run a dedicated 12/2 directly to the panel box . I know the homeowner didn't want sheetrock being opened up in her finished basement but anytime a heat device is installed, supposed to have it's won 12 gauge wire directly to the panel box.
I have a 16x15 room that has no heating at all and i need to make it a room temp. Has one door leading to the front, another door leading to the backyard and another to the garage. Also has windows and concrete floors. What heating solution would you recommend ? I was told to either go with DV wall heaters or one with hyper heat pump system. I'm from Chicago! Please help!
stuntcardriver - NEC says as long as it's under 50% circuit capacity it's acceptable, as long as manufacturer doesn't require it. The heater was 4 amp.
@@outlander4002 how much square footage room would you put this in? I have a 10 x 12 sun porch with lots of windows i can't use in the winter due to cold, even with a heat duct
No mention of the circuit capacity. Adding a space heater like that one, should not be that close to the toilet. The convenience of the outlet on the other side of the wall is great, but what if that particular circuit is already 80 % loaded?
I never heard about taping wire nuts. Every country has a building code which describes how electrical (and other construction) work has to be carried out. No need to be creative, or better said, you absolutely should not deviate from the building code. Every little detail in there has a reason which comes from hundreds of years of construction experiences country-wide. If you are not an certified electrician, you should not do anything electrical, not because of you cannot do it, but because you don't want your insurance saying "You didn't get a certified electrician, so it's your problem that your house burned down".
Taping the wire nuts is recommended only if there are exposed conductors below the wirenut. That shouldn't happen in most cases if you cut the correct amount of sheathing off the wires and uses the correct size wirenuts. Use silicone-filled wirenuts for added protection in outdoor boxes.
Have to agree, can easily see a kid thinking it would be interesting to pour some water down those grills since it's mounted so low they can easily reach it.
I remember when houses were plumbed with natural gas lines into the walls in the bathrooms and there were gas powered space heaters mounted into the walls. When the electricity went out, we still had heat.
Can this same installation method be used to wire in a Stiebel Eltron CK 1500w wall heater? I would like to add this heater to my bathroom/hallway circuit via an outlet in the bathroom. This circuit has a few outlets and three single LED bulb lights on it. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
I would suggest that you try to use a dedicated circuit due to the wattage of your heater. 1500 watts equals slightly more than 12 amps which is 60% of a 20 amp circuit or 80% of a 15 amp circuit. I don't know what your branch circuits are run in, so to be safe, install a 20 amp dedicated circuit if possible.
This is hard wired. It does not need to be on a GFCi circuit. If it plugged into an outlet in the bathroom, it would need to be a GFCI outlet or GFCI circuit breaker in the service panel, as GFCI protected outlets are required in bathrooms.
I believe by code only the neutral is required to be pigtailed, although it is common practice to pigtail all the conductors in a box in case a receptacle fails in the future and killing power to any other things downstream which in this case would be the heater.
Tony Castillo I never said anything was code. All I was saying was I would have pigtailed the connection rather then feed it through the outlet. No right or wrong way here. Just personal preference.
Something has to be pushing against both hot and neutral for the built in shield to open up. So you need to be dedicated enough to zapping yourself that you would remove a normal cover anyway.
Yeah the UK system uses a shutter system where the earth/ground prong must be inserted to open the neutral and live/hot ports. The US version I seen is a type of cover that covers the entire outlet and you use the plug to "shift" the cover to access the hole.
No bath or shower, Room is between 2 other rooms. Do they really need heat? I have no heat in my farmhouse bathroom. Taking a shower in the winter? Work quickly.
Here we go again, just because YOU don't have or want heat in a bathroom, doesn't mean others should have to be cold! You do whatever makes you happy and leave others alone!
Wiring it is the easiest part, showering loads the air with moisture, which condenses on all surfaces in the bathroom, including the non-heated electrical parts of such an appliance. No real danger because if it does short the electricity will go to the ground-wire, but this is a bad spot for this heater.
John Gauthier should be dedicated yes, but assuming there’s little current draw on those outlets you should be fine. If anything a breaker will just trip
while I couldn't find the exact unit installed in the video, based on the size of the wires of the heater and by similar units online with specifications I believe the heater installed is around 400-500 watts which is around 4.2 amps max. The circuit he tapped into is a 15 amp circuit (only rated for 12 continuous amps however). Overall its OK, definitely the cheapest option they have since it seems they can't run a dedicated circuit without drywall damage. As long as they don't use a vacuum cleaner when the heater is on they won't trip a breaker LOL This video is a good example of why it's not a great idea to put in hard ceilings in a basement of an older house that hasn't been modernized throughout. You end up with these compromises over and over. A better option would have been a ceiling grid with nice ceiling tiles in the basement if a whole house remodel wasn't in the budget.
@@kylefowler5082 , Yeah I just thought a permanent installation needs a dedicated circuit. I mean the unit is only 500 watts and permanent wiring should be a lot safer that a 1500 watt portable heater, but I thought a licensed electrician had to follow code and run a dedicated circuit. Is that not the case?
@@jfmc2581 permanent fixtures do not necessarily require dedicated circuits. Some do (like fridges and washing machines) and some dont. Not including code required dedicated circuits a good general rule is not to load a circuit more than 80% of its rating. Exceeding 80% can lead to nuisance tripping. For example if the heater pulled 12 amps and you were installing it on a 15 amp circuit it would need to be a dedicated circuit because that's 80% of the circuit's rating. But that 12 amp heater could share a 20 amp circuit with something else provided it doesn't pull more than 4 amps. (this circuit would have a total of 16 amps which is 80% of 20 amps) A common example of dedicated appliances sharing the same circuit is alot of houses are wired with the garbage disposal and dishwasher sharing a 20 amp circuit. Another example I've seen a few times is that a gas air handler and its code required service outlet share the same circuit. The air handler pulls just 5 amps usually so that leaves enough for the service outlet. I personally don't like it but it can be done.
@@kylefowler5082 , Really just asking about the NEC for this. Is it considered an appliance? Do you know what section allows for this? Also when a licensed electrician does the work does it have to be 100% to code all the time?
@@jfmc2581 in the NEC the only required dedicated appliance circuits in a home are for the fridge, microwave, and washing machine that I can recall off of the top of my head. Stoves and dryers can be gas or electric powered meaning they will or will not have dedicated circuits depending on that. Other than that the NEC doesn't specify that a hardwired appliance have a dedicated circuit. Let's say you were only using electric wall mounted heaters to heat your home. If you ran a dedicated circuit for each one you could end up filling up a whole panel with dedicated circuits for no reason if several heaters could be on one circuit. It would be an unnecessary waste of time and money. When baseboard heaters were common in houses they typically shared a circuit when that was possible. And yes electricians must follow the NEC code all the time, no exceptions
You'd need like a 5000 watt equivalent blast forced air heater to do what you are suggesting, as the instantaneous heat output is never going to happen with a tiny heater.
Did anyone notice that he didn’t use a pigtail to wire the outlet back up, it looks like he used the receptacle as the splice point, that’s bad practice.
Strange how in the US you pigtail connections and in the UK that would be concerned bad practice as we minimise wire joints as much as possible (less possible points of failure)
Nice. Should have ran a new circuit. It takes 4 amps/475 watts at 120v and that was only a 15 amp circuit. That's not counting the other loads on that circuit. They will be tripping the breaker every so often.
Lot of high power vacuums go right up to UL 12-amp limit...most are 8+ these days. Add something like a desktop computer or plasma TV already on circuit, breaker trip.
Joseph1NJ - Most plasma TV's were sold with 50,000+ hour lifespan. That's almost six years of continuous usage. We have a 50" LG plasma going on 7 or 8 years now, runs at least 12 hours a day and only thing that's ever needed changed was the power supply control board last year. Plasma TV's fell out of favor because they take a lot more electricity over LCD/LED TV's (in some cases three or four times more), they also are much heavier/cumbersome, and were far more expensive to manufacture and couldn't be economized.
Ok....that bath was next to rooms that are heated so will naturally get enough heat to keep lines from freezing. Therefore, a small electric heater with a plug-in is fine for bathing....no calling in an expensive electrician or buying a pricey product.
Electricians keep general contractors working by destroying floors and walls, general contractors keep electricians working by cutting through live wires. It's the circle of life.
+ Pete O - took me more than once, and I was using a full screen. I was going to send a link, but I didn't know where you live and what stores are available to you.
How is that socket outlet unusable when the heater is running? They'll still be power at the outlet, the heater is only spured off of it whilst you can still plug into the three pin plug.
MrWHITTERS8 - that heater is 120v,, likely 1k watts or 1.5k watts. Good luck plugging anything other than an electric shaver in there while the heater is running.
You do have a valid point but I disagree with you. That heater most likely draws under 10 amps. Assuming it's a 15 amp circuit I am going to take a wild guess they dont plug in anything in their touchscreen room that would draw more than a couple amps. Chances are the heater is only going to run a few times a year.
Well, if you stagger the wire length, I guess you can shove them all up that tiny opening. I got my 220v hardwired model today and it was so much of a PITA with the existing 12 ga. wire that I had to put a box in. This guy is pretty low-caliber compared to the usual TOH experts, IMO.
Scott is the best, even upgrading the outlet to a new tamper resistant!
Yes, good move. I hate them personally...but if I had small children think I’d feel differently.
@@jackpast lmao whats wrong with tr plugs
The best? Really? The heater should be on a dedicated circuit.
I feel like these guys never run into the issues normal people do when trying to accomplish things like this lol They always have an easy access!
Yeah, let's give them a house were they have to install it on an exterior wall where the walls are 8 ft tall and the ceiling is 10 ft tall and the wall has firebreaks in it. You can't crawl down to the header of the wall since the roof is there and even if you could, there's not enough room to run an extended length drill bit to drill a hole in the firebreak.
Love the exposed receptacle box @ 0:32 next to the children's play area. "But were more worried about being cold!"
5:42 is my favorite part of this video
I don’t know why I love to watch these videos I don’t even do any handy work
4:20 I wished copyright free music would automatically start playing when I fixed things.
This is good
When I start "fixing" things, they start playing music from horror films.
@Rob L. Lol
This old house might want to look into replacing bathroom fans with one that is turned on with humidity, it would be very economical and reduce mould and mildew in bathrooms as many new style bathrooms have the light switch and fan connected or they are like the old style homes where they are seperate, the retro fitted ones are usually ran with a switch that's sometimes in unusual places.
How the fan works is that it detects the moisture in the air and turns on automatically, once the moisture is down to a certain level, it turns off. making it ecenomical and quite safe
These are good in theory, but a lot of homeowners use the exhaust fan when they use the toilet (even if they're not taking a 💩). A humidity switch is a hassle to the homeowner where one fan serves dual purpose. A standard timer is still a better option, IMO, for this application. The humidity sensor is a good idea if the bathroom has two fans on separate circuits (one for toilet, one for shower).
Love the FLIR on the cell phone. Good for finding air leaks in the winter.
What heater is this? I like that it’s wall mounted but also hardwired with a thermostat.
Not sure why I even watch the videos. All the expert advice is in the comment section. Ha!
It always is...
"expert" advice
That's pretty much always true with this guy!!
Hell most the electricians that come to defend seem retarded.
I guess to get a license as an electrician the exam has a minimum number of questions you have to get wrong to pass!!
@@jfmc2581 I'm having a hard time believing any trade worker would work their 8 hours then head to the youtube to comment on trade work. "In my 110 years of being a plumber...." I'm calling bullshit!
Jf Mc wa wa wahhh
Power for unit heater is passing through the oulet, should have tied directly to supply and pigtailed to outlet.
What was done to cover up the hole in the wall where the cable was fed to the wall heater? Was there a recessed wall plate used or a feed-through bushing? Was it caulked?
Probably nothing, it's just drywall
The unit covered the hole.
Nothing needed. It is drywall and an interior wall so no issue with insulation.
How much current do these heaters draw. Can you piggyback off a wall outlet or do they have to be on there own breaker.
Looks like a 500 watt model. I could be wrong. The brand is called EnviHeat
I have a basement full bath and built the room over the big return pipe for the steam radiators. Enclosed the radiator pipes in drywall box with vents tand that heats the bathroom fine.
Hi don't you need a separate or dedicated breaker for that i need to install some in my house so if i connect it to any out let is that gonna be ok some one said that you not have to use that outlet for anything else thx
This draws 3 amps, it's meant to be operational 24x7 so it doesn't blast heat out like a regular portable 12 amp for spot treatment. 3 amps is below threshold needed for a dedicated line.
Did anyone notice the outlet with the missing cover at 0:32 I also think it was pointless to replace only the one outlet with a tamper resistant one as she still has to use the plug covers in the rest of them
It's not pointless he was only there to install the heater not child proof all the outlets in the basement
I would assume that the load on the heater is quite low as he is attaching it to an existing circuit?
The Envi Heater seen here is 500 Watts. At 115 Volts this heater will draw 4.35 Amps.
no gfci required for the heater next to the toilet?
Gumba Sal I wondered the same thing
No gfci needed 😏
Gumba Sal no,
Not needed
any particular reason why? I'm confused.
Gumba Sal probably built on overcurrent unit
Hi brother may i have the name of that heat unit please ,i want to get one for my bathroom
Can u enclose the make and model on the heater
0:56 Oh how convenient, it turns out he's an electrician.
Yeah they have a guy named Tom who is a wood worker a guy named Roger is a landscaper
You forgot Richard, the plumber...
As an electrician I am not too sure what this guy is. This entire set up is illegal.
@@StanSwan It's not illegal. It draws only 3 amps. He can tap into another outlet.
@@flexiblestrategist9922 You know that how?
Does american code not require local isolation of appliances? In the uk we would have an isolator for that just outside the bathroom.
Does anyone know what brand of heater that is?
If you set the thermostat by turning it up high and then lower till you hear the click will it shut off and on by itself, conserving energy?
That is what a thermostat does... It will turn off the heater when the temperature is above the set temperature, then turn it on when it is below that set temperatusre.. That click, is the switch inside the thermostat turning on or off.
I know this is an old video, but how many watts is that heater?
It looks like an ENVI HEATER and it's 500 watts
Would love to know how he got that outlet out of the wall with no damage considering they are nailed into the stud, just saying
He said box wasn’t nailed to 2x4. I find it crazy that someone would build a room without considering HVAC. Also, installing an inferior electric heater on “shared” wiring not considering AMPS or the overall load on existing 14-2 wiring. Definitely not the way I would install!! Needs dedicated 120v circuit IMO.
He said it’s an old work box. That means it was added after framing and thus not nailed into the stud. Old work boxes are held in place with tabs that fold up behind the Sheetrock, no nails
He laterally said in the video that it was an old work box. It was added after the dry wall was put up. Old work boxes work by clamping onto the wall surface. If it was a new work box, you would simply use a reciprocating saw to cut the nails holding it to the stud.
It would be a good idea to replace that outlet with a GFCI outlet. That way if any water fall in the heater there is no risk of anyone being electrocuted.
Especially me coming at 2 am from the bar and pissing in that white thing ....
I didn't think he would tap into another outlet. What is that outlet gets overloaded and trips the beaker with the heater on? I would have run a dedicated 12/2 directly to the panel box . I know the homeowner didn't want sheetrock being opened up in her finished basement but anytime a heat device is installed, supposed to have it's won 12 gauge wire directly to the panel box.
You mean breaker
@@flexiblestrategist9922 those heaters draw approx 3 amps....
@@fizwin1 Just commented the same thing until I saw yours. If it was 12 amps then yeah run a dedicated line, but 3 amps is no biggie
Anyone know the make and model number of this convection heater?
1:05 "it's a wall mounted panel heater", pause at 1:15 - It's an Envi - google
Yep, just saw that. www.eheat.com/envi-high-efficiency-whole-room-plug-in-electric-panel-heater-hh1012t/
Looks like an "Econoheat" panel. They have a website.
very cool device! low profile, hard wired, space saver and set temperature.
He could have also installed an electric wall hung towel warmer/heater.
eheat manufactures these convection heaters . . . Made in USA.
@@ChiapasPioneer best country in the world
I have a 16x15 room that has no heating at all and i need to make it a room temp. Has one door leading to the front, another door leading to the backyard and another to the garage. Also has windows and concrete floors. What heating solution would you recommend ? I was told to either go with DV wall heaters or one with hyper heat pump system. I'm from Chicago! Please help!
Ductless heat pumps are awesome. Check out some of the Fujitsu models. They will heat a room even when the temps fall to -15 degrees F.
Someone can explain how did he connect the new wire to the electrical outlet ?
He actually connected against code. He use the second set of screws on the outlet and used the outlet as a splice point.
Excellent video! I wonder if it has a disconnect switch built in or if it's just controlled by the thermostat. It looks like a great product.
wall heater doesn't need to be on a dedicated circuit?
They were using an extension cord for the other heater, suggesting there wasn't a plug already in the bathroom.
The Cat Man
circuit ≠ outlet
stuntcardriver - NEC says as long as it's under 50% circuit capacity it's acceptable, as long as manufacturer doesn't require it. The heater was 4 amp.
Gee would have liked to know the brand of this heater
500 watt ENVI HEATER
@@outlander4002 how much square footage room would you put this in? I have a 10 x 12 sun porch with lots of windows i can't use in the winter due to cold, even with a heat duct
No mention of the circuit capacity. Adding a space heater like that one, should not be that close to the toilet. The convenience of the outlet on the other side of the wall is great, but what if that particular circuit is already 80 % loaded?
Can't wait for her to plug a vacuum into that outlet while the heater is running.
It's probably a 500W heater, it's not full power.
It's a 3 amp heater. Even with a 12 amp vacuum being used in the other room outlet, it will not trip.
Could you tell me why he didn't tape off the wire nuts? Not necessary? Not recommended?
I never heard about taping wire nuts. Every country has a building code which describes how electrical (and other construction) work has to be carried out. No need to be creative, or better said, you absolutely should not deviate from the building code. Every little detail in there has a reason which comes from hundreds of years of construction experiences country-wide. If you are not an certified electrician, you should not do anything electrical, not because of you cannot do it, but because you don't want your insurance saying "You didn't get a certified electrician, so it's your problem that your house burned down".
Taping the wire nuts is recommended only if there are exposed conductors below the wirenut. That shouldn't happen in most cases if you cut the correct amount of sheathing off the wires and uses the correct size wirenuts. Use silicone-filled wirenuts for added protection in outdoor boxes.
If the heater draws about 1300 watts it'll be using somewhere around 10-11 amps. Doesn't leave much left for any other devices.
It doesn't. It's only about 500 watts.
I wish he would have at least mentioned checking the breaker size beforehand.
Point of isolation should be provided for the heater.
What about a GFCI?
Have to agree, can easily see a kid thinking it would be interesting to pour some water down those grills since it's mounted so low they can easily reach it.
I remember when houses were plumbed with natural gas lines into the walls in the bathrooms and there were gas powered space heaters mounted into the walls. When the electricity went out, we still had heat.
Yes. Most people are like what? Lol
Can this same installation method be used to wire in a Stiebel Eltron
CK 1500w wall heater? I would like to add this heater to my bathroom/hallway circuit via an outlet in the bathroom. This circuit has a few outlets and three single LED bulb lights on it. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
I would suggest that you try to use a dedicated circuit due to the wattage of your heater. 1500 watts equals slightly more than 12 amps which is 60% of a 20 amp circuit or 80% of a 15 amp circuit. I don't know what your branch circuits are run in, so to be safe, install a 20 amp dedicated circuit if possible.
Bollywood Vin Diesel is pretty good with wires
That guy Scott Caron is a very handsome chap, most handsome indeed!
Nice job. Thank you for sharing.
Lol only problem in winter would be breaker kicking off as circuit had 10 more plugs on it...🤣🤣
Where did he buy the heater?
What brand is this heater?
Did I miss the gfci part?
This is hard wired. It does not need to be on a GFCi circuit. If it plugged into an outlet in the bathroom, it would need to be a GFCI outlet or GFCI circuit breaker in the service panel, as GFCI protected outlets are required in bathrooms.
How much does the heater draw that the electrician can just tap off of a circuit without looking to see how much is already on the circuit?
3-4 amps. Relax
How many square feet can one of those wall heaters heat?
150
I probably would have done a pigtail connection in the outlet box instead of wiring the heater through the outlet. Nice clean install otherwise.
Can't think of any single benefit to this aside from potentially future proofing.
I believe by code only the neutral is required to be pigtailed, although it is common practice to pigtail all the conductors in a box in case a receptacle fails in the future and killing power to any other things downstream which in this case would be the heater.
Tony Castillo - That is for multibranch circuits, which isn't in 99% of homes. There is no code requiring pigtails, or duplex outlets wouldn't exist.
zimsjeep Yeah the pig tail is for multi branch circuits as you mentioned, still good practice to pigtail I truly believe.
Tony Castillo I never said anything was code. All I was saying was I would have pigtailed the connection rather then feed it through the outlet. No right or wrong way here. Just personal preference.
Cool show
Whoa, how did you set the outlet to work with plugs and not a paper clip and no more plug covers? This is an interesting video to make.
it's just a different outlet..
google - tamper resistant outlets
Something has to be pushing against both hot and neutral for the built in shield to open up. So you need to be dedicated enough to zapping yourself that you would remove a normal cover anyway.
Yeah the UK system uses a shutter system where the earth/ground prong must be inserted to open the neutral and live/hot ports. The US version I seen is a type of cover that covers the entire outlet and you use the plug to "shift" the cover to access the hole.
how many amps does that heater put out
The Envi ones seem to draw around 4 amps
240V is much better but chose this route not to make holes to panel. Just cant plug something amp heavy on plug circuit.
Without know all the parameters this is only a guesstimate.
There's no 240v line anywhere near that wall. And not needed for that single room size anyway.
No bath or shower, Room is between 2 other rooms. Do they really need heat? I have no heat in my farmhouse bathroom. Taking a shower in the winter? Work quickly.
I thought what if a kid dumps a cup of water into the top of the heater in there?!
Here we go again, just because YOU don't have or want heat in a bathroom, doesn't mean others should have to be cold! You do whatever makes you happy and leave others alone!
he will learn his lesson and probably only do it the once
Natural gas heater is less expesive to run.
No shut off switch and RCD protection?
can you do how to install a swamp cooler
Does this only work on bathrooms?
I like this new Vin Diesel
Wiring it is the easiest part, showering loads the air with moisture, which condenses on all surfaces in the bathroom, including the non-heated electrical parts of such an appliance. No real danger because if it does short the electricity will go to the ground-wire, but this is a bad spot for this heater.
Dave Kauffman i
Nice way to start a fire adding a space heater to a existing circuit should have been a seperate dedicated circuit
Tend to agree but without knowing the possible total current draw it's in not 100 %
John Gauthier should be dedicated yes, but assuming there’s little current draw on those outlets you should be fine. If anything a breaker will just trip
omg relax, those heaters are 3-4 amps and most come with a 3 prong plug
That won’t start a fire you bozo
it's not complete until he says "im going to MAAAAAK IT"
very good job
can you do a video report for our new heater ?
what's that heat sensor cam scott attached to the iphone called?
FLIR ONE Thermal Imager for iOS - You need the hardware (detachable camera) and the FliR app.
nice work
Better solutions out there for this scenario.
Seems like a bathroom heater Should be on a circuit by itself.
Dosen't this require a dedicated circuit to be up to code?
while I couldn't find the exact unit installed in the video, based on the size of the wires of the heater and by similar units online with specifications I believe the heater installed is around 400-500 watts which is around 4.2 amps max. The circuit he tapped into is a 15 amp circuit (only rated for 12 continuous amps however).
Overall its OK, definitely the cheapest option they have since it seems they can't run a dedicated circuit without drywall damage. As long as they don't use a vacuum cleaner when the heater is on they won't trip a breaker LOL
This video is a good example of why it's not a great idea to put in hard ceilings in a basement of an older house that hasn't been modernized throughout. You end up with these compromises over and over. A better option would have been a ceiling grid with nice ceiling tiles in the basement if a whole house remodel wasn't in the budget.
@@kylefowler5082 , Yeah I just thought a permanent installation needs a dedicated circuit. I mean the unit is only 500 watts and permanent wiring should be a lot safer that a 1500 watt portable heater, but I thought a licensed electrician had to follow code and run a dedicated circuit. Is that not the case?
@@jfmc2581 permanent fixtures do not necessarily require dedicated circuits. Some do (like fridges and washing machines) and some dont. Not including code required dedicated circuits a good general rule is not to load a circuit more than 80% of its rating. Exceeding 80% can lead to nuisance tripping. For example if the heater pulled 12 amps and you were installing it on a 15 amp circuit it would need to be a dedicated circuit because that's 80% of the circuit's rating. But that 12 amp heater could share a 20 amp circuit with something else provided it doesn't pull more than 4 amps. (this circuit would have a total of 16 amps which is 80% of 20 amps)
A common example of dedicated appliances sharing the same circuit is alot of houses are wired with the garbage disposal and dishwasher sharing a 20 amp circuit.
Another example I've seen a few times is that a gas air handler and its code required service outlet share the same circuit. The air handler pulls just 5 amps usually so that leaves enough for the service outlet. I personally don't like it but it can be done.
@@kylefowler5082 , Really just asking about the NEC for this. Is it considered an appliance? Do you know what section allows for this? Also when a licensed electrician does the work does it have to be 100% to code all the time?
@@jfmc2581 in the NEC the only required dedicated appliance circuits in a home are for the fridge, microwave, and washing machine that I can recall off of the top of my head. Stoves and dryers can be gas or electric powered meaning they will or will not have dedicated circuits depending on that.
Other than that the NEC doesn't specify that a hardwired appliance have a dedicated circuit. Let's say you were only using electric wall mounted heaters to heat your home. If you ran a dedicated circuit for each one you could end up filling up a whole panel with dedicated circuits for no reason if several heaters could be on one circuit. It would be an unnecessary waste of time and money. When baseboard heaters were common in houses they typically shared a circuit when that was possible.
And yes electricians must follow the NEC code all the time, no exceptions
Wouldn't it be better to wire it to the bathroom light switch?
So when put put on the light it goes on.
You'd need like a 5000 watt equivalent blast forced air heater to do what you are suggesting, as the instantaneous heat output is never going to happen with a tiny heater.
@@oldtwinsna8347 No you don't. He essentially did the same thing, on a different circuit.
I would have used pigtails for the receptacle.
Did anyone notice that he didn’t use a pigtail to wire the outlet back up, it looks like he used the receptacle as the splice point, that’s bad practice.
Strange how in the US you pigtail connections and in the UK that would be concerned bad practice as we minimise wire joints as much as possible (less possible points of failure)
∞ ❤ ly work . I realy enjoy to watch U , when U explain how to fix the problem . I think it is your charisma .📡 ✟✡✟❤ U .
Nice. Should have ran a new circuit. It takes 4 amps/475 watts at 120v and that was only a 15 amp circuit. That's not counting the other loads on that circuit. They will be tripping the breaker every so often.
Lot of high power vacuums go right up to UL 12-amp limit...most are 8+ these days. Add something like a desktop computer or plasma TV already on circuit, breaker trip.
Yeah. Our vacuums are 12 amps.
Are there permits required to install something like this?
Plasma in 2017? I thought they don't last that long.
Joseph1NJ - Most plasma TV's were sold with 50,000+ hour lifespan. That's almost six years of continuous usage. We have a 50" LG plasma going on 7 or 8 years now, runs at least 12 hours a day and only thing that's ever needed changed was the power supply control board last year. Plasma TV's fell out of favor because they take a lot more electricity over LCD/LED TV's (in some cases three or four times more), they also are much heavier/cumbersome, and were far more expensive to manufacture and couldn't be economized.
I didn't know that. Some friends were early buyers, and their's died in about 5 years or so.
the heat is badly connected because if the outlet is damaged the heat will stop working
i'm pretty sure there is a violation with pigtail because we shall not use device as a pigtail.
Being pretty sure is not a listed. code requirement
I no expert but isn't that against code to put an electric source/object that close to a source of water unless its GFCI certified ?
Ok....that bath was next to rooms that are heated so will naturally get enough heat to keep lines from freezing. Therefore, a small electric heater with a plug-in is fine for bathing....no calling in an expensive electrician or buying a pricey product.
God bless electricians. Making holes in my walls and studs like friggen rats in a Russian ships.
Electricians keep general contractors working by destroying floors and walls, general contractors keep electricians working by cutting through live wires. It's the circle of life.
You forgot plumbers, even bigger holes, degrading structural integrity, and then leave a mess.
Don’t miss when you piss or you’ll get a zap!!
Have you tried this before?
brand? Is that an eheat Envi?
i like scott
The music is inappropriate
4:22 he didn't say what he was doing next. Bad teacher
TOH should have kept Scott on the show. I think they made a bad decision when they let him go.
what brand is that?
1:05 "it's a wall mounted panel heater", pause at 1:15 - It's an Envi - google
Lex Luther thanks i couldn't read that on phone
+ Pete O - took me more than once, and I was using a full screen. I was going to send a link, but I didn't know where you live and what stores are available to you.
Too close to toilet, uncomfortably warm for newspaper readers.
Absolutely too close.....Reading the newspaper and suddenly you have a flaming paper in your lap and shorts.
No idiot would od that whilst on the toilet
At least the toilet seat would be warm.
Link to heater www.eheat.com/envi-high-efficiency-whole-room-120v-hardwired-electric-panel-wall-heater-2nd-generation-hw3012t/
Bad. Always install heat on a dedicated circuit. Now that socket is basically unusable when the heater is running.
Thats true
How is that socket outlet unusable when the heater is running? They'll still be power at the outlet, the heater is only spured off of it whilst you can still plug into the three pin plug.
MrWHITTERS8 - that heater is 120v,, likely 1k watts or 1.5k watts. Good luck plugging anything other than an electric shaver in there while the heater is running.
475 Watts
You do have a valid point but I disagree with you. That heater most likely draws under 10 amps. Assuming it's a 15 amp circuit I am going to take a wild guess they dont plug in anything in their touchscreen room that would draw more than a couple amps. Chances are the heater is only going to run a few times a year.
And "No Mention" of how MOST heating circuits need to be separated from other circuits to pass code...
Where’s the RCD?
Why not gfi protect it. I definitely would being in a wet location with children. And why doesn't this man ever use a cordless to put stuff together
That window in the background is crooked AF
I though he said level with the toilet. What happened?
Ugh, never install that kind of thing near a toilet. Splash from the toilet will corrode it and it will fail within a few years.
Close the lid if flushing lol 😆
@@jamesreynolds5776 The corrosion happens from spashback while going to the bathroom, not while flushing.
RIP electric bill : (
"New plugs."
Meanwhile Britain has had that feature since 1946 and it's been a requirement since then
Cool
British plugs are the king in terms of safety, and serviceability but man, are they huge...
Well, if you stagger the wire length, I guess you can shove them all up that tiny opening. I got my 220v hardwired model today and it was so much of a PITA with the existing 12 ga. wire that I had to put a box in. This guy is pretty low-caliber compared to the usual TOH experts, IMO.
IN ABOUT 5 YEARS YOU WILL SEE BLACK LINES ON THE WALL FROM THE HEAT
Ive had this heater for more than 5 years. Zero signs of whatever the hell you are talking about!
4.5 years to go. If there are no stains, you owe the bald man an apology.
The black lines are from your cigarette habit.
Simple solution! Paint the walls black!
Or just repaint every 5 years in a small room? pretty cost effective rather than tearing everything up and spending a ton on new duct work