How can you be sure of the angle matching the head??? you can do the same thing with a hand drill and grinding compound against the seat and do better.
I might have the wrong parts. Intake clearance should be .002-.003 for intake and .0032-.0045 for exhaust. Upper limit is .0065 in. I can go by feel. With spring removed open the valve to aprox .300 and move back and forth. Heck just hold the new valve in the new guide and see how it feels. Air cooled engines need more clearance than water cooled. You might be able to take it to a shop and have them knurl the inside of the guide to spec. Thanks for watching and commenting
In boy scouts we had magnesium fire starter kits. just a small block of magnesium with a strip of "flint". Scrape magnesium off the back w a knife then scrape the knife on the strip to make sparks onto the magnesium.
An even easier way of back cutting the valve heads is to chuck them up in your drill press and use a file to take off the lip while it spins at lowest speed possible. You can also use this method to polish the back side of the valve using emory cloth. BE CAREFUL not to wrap you fingers in the emory cloth in case it catches on the valve and starts to wrap around it
I know it's an old posting, but I managed to muck up my heads when changing the valve guides. The exhaust guides went in without a problem, it was the inlet valves that didn't go in properly. I heated the heads in the oven and froze the guides and then managed to break the three guide bosses on both heads, I wish I'd taken them to a machine shop.
Sorry to hear that but you did learn some things. You should save those heads and practice doing some port grinding and just experimenting. I tried a set of these heads and they seem to be working ok. I did have to clean up the fin area. carcraftstore.com/cylinderheads-stocktowild.aspx
Thanks for the reply, I was gutted when it happened, I was later told that you can't get the heads hot enough in a domestic oven or probably cold enough in the freezer. I did get a good deal on a pair of EMPI standard heads over here in the UK, more than happy with the quality, and they are made in China.
I replaced my worn exhaust valve guides using your techniques.Thanks for the helpful video! I have a question regarding the valve stem to guide clearance and how to properly check it. The brand new standard size guides I put in seem to have a lot of slack with the new stock valves. I would estimate around .015 -.020 in. which is huge considering most common engines require like .002-.005 in. I have a dial indicator, but I don't have a bore gauge. Is there a way I can get a reading with it?
I know this is n ancient post, but, for anyone interested, I figured I'd answer. A stock intake guide should have .0012" - .002" and exhaust .002" - .0025". You can check clearance with a dial indicator, but it isn't as accurate as a bore gauge or a small hole gauge. Small hole gauges can be measured with a vernier calliper or a micrometre and with the inexpensive cost are worth having. To check with a dial indicator on the chamber side, take the valve just off the seat and with the indicator on the edge of the valve, measure the valve "rock". This isn't accurate as you have the distance of the valve head from the guide adding to the actual clearance measurement, but it can tell you if your guides are very badly worn. The closer method would be to put the indicator on the stem just above the guide on the rocker side of the head and see how much "rock" you have when pushing the top of the valve back and forth at the tip of the stem. This can give you a very good measure, but, not as good as a small hole gauge.
I bought mine from Gene Berg enterprises many years ago and it was all set up to go. You might check with these folks and have a look around. www.cylinderheadsupply.com/
I've watched this many times and the safety lesson cracks me up every time 😂
Thanks for your comment and support
You make it fun and informative with your wealth of experience. We appreciate your years of sharing. I hope you are doing well.
nothing teaches better than experience
haha that first bit did make me laugh.great spring tool .
I put my valves into a hand held drill, and have the valve spinning with the drill against the spinning grinder wheel. Leslie Kish
How can you be sure of the angle matching the head??? you can do the same thing with a hand drill and grinding compound against the seat and do better.
I might have the wrong parts. Intake clearance should be .002-.003 for intake
and .0032-.0045 for exhaust. Upper limit is .0065 in.
I can go by feel. With spring removed open the valve to aprox .300 and move back and forth. Heck just hold the new valve in the new guide and see how it feels. Air cooled engines need more clearance than water cooled. You might be able to take it to a shop and have them knurl the inside of the guide to spec. Thanks for watching and commenting
Great stuff. Catching up GZ.
6.30 ''As long as i am showing you bad habits'' Goes to a shot of some white powder on a square tray on a work bench.
In boy scouts we had magnesium fire starter kits. just a small block of magnesium with a strip of "flint". Scrape magnesium off the back w a knife then scrape the knife on the strip to make sparks onto the magnesium.
cool, Thanks for watching and commenting
good tips indeed thanks
An even easier way of back cutting the valve heads is to chuck them up in your drill press and use a file to take off the lip while it spins at lowest speed possible. You can also use this method to polish the back side of the valve using emory cloth. BE CAREFUL not to wrap you fingers in the emory cloth in case it catches on the valve and starts to wrap around it
NICE!
I know it's an old posting, but I managed to muck up my heads when changing the valve guides. The exhaust guides went in without a problem, it was the inlet valves that didn't go in properly. I heated the heads in the oven and froze the guides and then managed to break the three guide bosses on both heads, I wish I'd taken them to a machine shop.
Sorry to hear that but you did learn some things. You should save those heads and practice doing some port grinding and just experimenting. I tried a set of these heads and they seem to be working ok. I did have to clean up the fin area. carcraftstore.com/cylinderheads-stocktowild.aspx
Thanks for the reply, I was gutted when it happened, I was later told that you can't get the heads hot enough in a domestic oven or probably cold enough in the freezer. I did get a good deal on a pair of EMPI standard heads over here in the UK, more than happy with the quality, and they are made in China.
Stay safe
Brilliant
where did you get that spring compressor?
I replaced my worn exhaust valve guides using your techniques.Thanks for the helpful video! I have a question regarding the valve stem to guide clearance and how to properly check it. The brand new standard size guides I put in seem to have a lot of slack with the new stock valves. I would estimate around .015 -.020 in. which is huge considering most common engines require like .002-.005 in. I have a dial indicator, but I don't have a bore gauge. Is there a way I can get a reading with it?
I know this is n ancient post, but, for anyone interested, I figured I'd answer.
A stock intake guide should have .0012" - .002" and exhaust .002" - .0025".
You can check clearance with a dial indicator, but it isn't as accurate as a bore gauge or a small hole gauge. Small hole gauges can be measured with a vernier calliper or a micrometre and with the inexpensive cost are worth having.
To check with a dial indicator on the chamber side, take the valve just off the seat and with the indicator on the edge of the valve, measure the valve "rock". This isn't accurate as you have the distance of the valve head from the guide adding to the actual clearance measurement, but it can tell you if your guides are very badly worn.
The closer method would be to put the indicator on the stem just above the guide on the rocker side of the head and see how much "rock" you have when pushing the top of the valve back and forth at the tip of the stem. This can give you a very good measure, but, not as good as a small hole gauge.
Aluminum will clog grinding wheel which could cause it to overheat and explode
Not likely....
@@TheEZGZ that’s what we were told as machinists 🤷♂️
Is that spring seal cutter specific to VW heads (used to allow for dual springs)? If so, can you please share the brand & model number? Thanks!
I bought mine from Gene Berg enterprises many years ago and it was all set up to go.
You might check with these folks and have a look around. www.cylinderheadsupply.com/
👍
ALU get stuck in rhe pores of the wheel and expands cracking the wheel under heat,
Thousands rpm plus shrapnel Not nice at all.