Worked great for me. Sorry this video quality sucks. It was done with a $25 camera. Last time it failed I had a boat trailer on the ramp. So not only had to call a roll back but had boat to get home. Actally this hack is so simple could have done it on the ramp. I think its the ethanol in the gas. I have to change fuel pumps in my old trans ams every couple years because they get ate up...
Be aware this does not work for the F150 long box with supercab. #1 all of the connector to the back tank have 90 degree elbows on them and for some reason the 3/8 line to the tank reduces to a 5/16 to the motor. This has been a messy shitty project and it is still not done.
@@willieb.hardigan5780same problem one of the ends on my valve snapped and I cannot find any fuel tank selector valves with the 3 lines and 2 prongs 1985 f50 351W carb
That cannister is a sump for the fuel pump on the frame. It helps if you are under a load and using more fuel than the tank pump can provide it provides a buffer of sorts.
Thanks for the comment. I knew it was to "buffer" but I thought it was for when you were switching between tanks on the road so there would not be a hesitation.
Did you say disconnect the back tank altogether? How did you do that? It looks like you kept lines attached on Selector valve. Did you disconnect lines on rear sending unit? Thanks
No I didn't. I should. Once it worked I never got back under there. The back tank is full. I planned on energizing it to pump the tank out. But never got back under there. I really should. I was really agravated at it. Broke down on boat ramp with boat on the trailer in the water. Had to get towed home. Every 5 years or 25K this selector value breaks Once broke 500 miles from home.
I have a problem so my switch doesn’t work I switch it from front to rear but it doesn’t go to rear tank and my rear is full of gas because the front tank is returning gas to the 2nd tank and that is causing it to overfill and spill from the 2nd tank .any ideas on how to fix it I bought a new tank selector valve
That what I bypass in this video. When it fail gas goes from one tank to other instead of to engine. In this video I bypass switch. One have one tank now. But at least it doesn't go out ever 5 years any more... that why they sell these lines at advance
@@davianparish770 It should not bypass from one tank to the other. If it does its defective. There is a sump forward of it that hold maybe a quart of gas. that why it will run for 30 seconds or so. Then there is the next fuel pump that send the gas to the engine. If that fuel pump fails
Here are the parts and yes they are on the shelf in the isle. The 2 guys working there had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. I had to find them myself. DORNAN - quick disconnect 5/16, 3/8, #800-159 RETAINING CLIPS- #800-015 5/16, 3/8
No sir the fuel filter is on up the rail almost in the engine bay. That cylinder is a sump. It holds about a quart of gas so your engine doesn't die when you switch tanks going down the road. The fuel filter is on up past the fuel pump. There are three fuel pumps.
I sure hope you read this & can give me your opinion on my problem. I have a 1983 class c Coachman Leprechaun on a Ford Chassis that has 2 gas tanks. If I am on Front tank the rv seems to lose power (gas) going up a hill or sometimes even flat roads & will stall out. I can have my gas pedal all the way to the floor & it just stalls. I have spent so much money on trying to get this problem fixed & to this day I am still having this problem I just noticed this week that if I'm on the rear tank it runs fine. Do you think the part you removed is the culprit on my rv? Looking so forward to hearing from you!
It very well could be. Mine goes out every 30K miles. Thats why I bypassed it. It would be very simple for you to try it. Advance Auto sells the lines to bypass it with. No tools needed. Just pull the fuel lines and plug the bypass lines in. That would rule it out. Also a plugged up fuel filter and weak fuel pump in tank could do it to. But if the rear tank runs fine then it NOT the filter. So its either the fuel pump or the selector switch. There are three fuel pumps on it. When the selector switch goes out what it does is send gas from one tank to the other instead of the engine.
Thank you so much Cam! This is starting to make more & more sense. Last month I thought I was losing my mind when I tried to put gas in both tanks & one started spilling out like it was already full! I always put the same amount of $ in both tanks. I will bting it to a garage next week.... fingers crossed! Thanks again!!
By any chance when you disconnect the first gas lines that go into the first tank did the second gas tank empty itself out spilling any leftover gas it had in it?
Tired of switch failure while pull a boat. Last time it failed I was pulling boat out of water. Not only have to have van towed now I have to find a way to get boat home. Failed twice out on interstate go 70. 18 gallon is plenty don't need the back 22 gallon to thats 40 gallons
Sure can be. Thats what mine did. There is a little tank that holds gas after the switch. That way you can switch tanks without it dyeing. Once that fuel is used it just dies. Let it sit a while and it will start up then die again.
All I did was bypass fuel lines. Bypassed selector switch. I did not mess with wiring. There are three fuel pumps. One in each tank and a secondary one by fuel filter. If you do this make sure you NEVER flip the selector switch under dash or it will activate pump in unused tank send gas out.
Can't do that with it bypassed. Goes from tank to secondary pump, then filter and to engine. But that is what it was doing before I bypassed it. It was pumping gas to the other tank instead of the engine.
Yes I left it hanging. Thought at the time was if the fuel pump in the tank went bad I could just switch to the rear tank. I don't need two tanks. That is alot of gas. I pull a boat to the river with it. Thats it.
😑 imma have to try this..I’m tired of my van not running..I got 2 brand new fuel tanks and a lot of other fuel related parts expect this valve. Imma have to try it out. I just want to hear it run! 👌🏽
Why can't I actually find mine. Everyone is able to shine a flash light and there it is I can't even find mine. Someone help. Able to show a video of not finding it
trace the fuel line out of the tank. There is a pressure, return and vent... Where is your fuel filter. It should be in frame rail. The secondary pump and filter is hidden by a shield in the frame rail.
Seeing as you have familiarized yourself with all of that under there and are nice and greasy, why don't you just disconnect the wiring connector to the rear tank to avoid any mishaps with the tank switching from inside the cab ? The pump insertion hole faces forward and is easy enough to get at for that purpose without having to loosen any straps or whatever. If for some reason you can't get the connector off, just snip the black wire that is part of its harness, leaving an inch or so of wire for re-connection in some future date, should you change your mind. It has a red wire for pump power and a black for its ground. It has four connectors in the plug but one is not used. Besides the red and black for the pump the third is for the sending unit for the dash gauge. Now that takes the rear tank out of the picture completely. I have a 1987 E-250 with duel tanks and am just now fussing with the same problem.
The fuel filter is after the fuel pump on the frame towards the engine. I bypassed the selector switch between the two tanks. See the wireing harness going into the switch. Filters usually don't have a bunch of wires going into them
Man... thanks for the video . Im having a similar problem and wanted to bypass the lines and wondered where to do the do. That selector sucks. Thanks again man!
The fuel filter is on the frame after the fuel pump. Fuel filters don't have a wireing harness going to them to turn on full pumps in the tanks. This This thing keeps breaking every 30K miles and just pumps gas from one tank to the other then instead of engine
I found the part online like this, Dorman Steel Fuel Line Assortment 1 Each- 5/16 and 3/8 in x 12 in Double Line 800-159 (26)
I got them at advance auto. They had them on the rack.
Thank you I think that’s what I’m going to do 😎running front tank not too good running back tank the return is going into the front
Worked great for me. Sorry this video quality sucks. It was done with a $25 camera. Last time it failed I had a boat trailer on the ramp. So not only had to call a roll back but had boat to get home. Actally this hack is so simple could have done it on the ramp. I think its the ethanol in the gas. I have to change fuel pumps in my old trans ams every couple years because they get ate up...
About to do the same thing on my 87 e150. On the selector valve do you remember which lines ran to the front tank? There's six lines coming off iirc.
I just traced the lines. They are two different sizes. one is high pressure. other one is return. It worked great for me...
What is the part number
800-159
you get both quik disconnect double male lines
Be aware this does not work for the F150 long box with supercab. #1 all of the connector to the back tank have 90 degree elbows on them and for some reason the 3/8 line to the tank reduces to a 5/16 to the motor. This has been a messy shitty project and it is still not done.
What year?
@@outdoorswithcam 1985
@@willieb.hardigan5780same problem one of the ends on my valve snapped and I cannot find any fuel tank selector valves with the 3 lines and 2 prongs 1985 f50 351W carb
@@willieb.hardigan5780 That good to know. This was a van. I have no idea about pickups. Worked great for me. Thanks for the comment!
That cannister is a sump for the fuel pump on the frame. It helps if you are under a load and using more fuel than the tank pump can provide it provides a buffer of sorts.
Thanks for the comment. I knew it was to "buffer" but I thought it was for when you were switching between tanks on the road so there would not be a hesitation.
Actually, that would be a charcoal cannister. It absorbs the fumes from the tank vents.
Did you say disconnect the back tank altogether? How did you do that? It looks like you kept lines attached on Selector valve. Did you disconnect lines on rear sending unit? Thanks
No I didn't. I should. Once it worked I never got back under there. The back tank is full. I planned on energizing it to pump the tank out. But never got back under there. I really should. I was really agravated at it. Broke down on boat ramp with boat on the trailer in the water. Had to get towed home. Every 5 years or 25K this selector value breaks Once broke 500 miles from home.
I have a problem so my switch doesn’t work I switch it from front to rear but it doesn’t go to rear tank and my rear is full of gas because the front tank is returning gas to the 2nd tank and that is causing it to overfill and spill from the 2nd tank .any ideas on how to fix it I bought a new tank selector valve
That what I bypass in this video. When it fail gas goes from one tank to other instead of to engine. In this video I bypass switch. One have one tank now. But at least it doesn't go out ever 5 years any more... that why they sell these lines at advance
@@outdoorswithcam yeah I understand I just want it to be working I don’t want to bypass
@@davianparish770 It should not bypass from one tank to the other. If it does its defective. There is a sump forward of it that hold maybe a quart of gas. that why it will run for 30 seconds or so. Then there is the next fuel pump that send the gas to the engine. If that fuel pump fails
Here are the parts and yes they are on the shelf in the isle. The 2 guys working there had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. I had to find them myself.
DORNAN - quick disconnect 5/16, 3/8, #800-159
RETAINING CLIPS- #800-015 5/16, 3/8
Yes they are on the shelf at Advance. Thats where I got them to do this... Thanks for the comment
THIS IS INCORRECT, THESE LINES WILL NOT WORK AT ALL NOT FOR 87-89 F-SERIES TRUCKS. Just found this out the hard way and im waiting on a tow truck now
I found the part online like this, Dorman Steel Fuel Line Assortment 1 Each- 5/16 and 3/8 in x 12 in Double Line 800-159 (26)
Did you put a fuel filter in line? You bypassed The filter (the round cylinder you called it) or is it straight gas going to the engine?
No sir the fuel filter is on up the rail almost in the engine bay. That cylinder is a sump. It holds about a quart of gas so your engine doesn't die when you switch tanks going down the road. The fuel filter is on up past the fuel pump. There are three fuel pumps.
@@ricks7264 you need a filter. Mine is up on the frame rail
I sure hope you read this & can give me your opinion on my problem. I have a 1983 class c Coachman Leprechaun on a Ford Chassis that has 2 gas tanks. If I am on Front tank the rv seems to lose power (gas) going up a hill or sometimes even flat roads & will stall out. I can have my gas pedal all the way to the floor & it just stalls. I have spent so much money on trying to get this problem fixed & to this day I am still having this problem I just noticed this week that if I'm on the rear tank it runs fine. Do you think the part you removed is the culprit on my rv? Looking so forward to hearing from you!
It very well could be. Mine goes out every 30K miles. Thats why I bypassed it. It would be very simple for you to try it. Advance Auto sells the lines to bypass it with. No tools needed. Just pull the fuel lines and plug the bypass lines in. That would rule it out. Also a plugged up fuel filter and weak fuel pump in tank could do it to. But if the rear tank runs fine then it NOT the filter. So its either the fuel pump or the selector switch. There are three fuel pumps on it. When the selector switch goes out what it does is send gas from one tank to the other instead of the engine.
Thank you so much Cam! This is starting to make more & more sense. Last month I thought I was losing my mind when I tried to put gas in both tanks & one started spilling out like it was already full! I always put the same amount of $ in both tanks. I will bting it to a garage next week.... fingers crossed! Thanks again!!
By any chance when you disconnect the first gas lines that go into the first tank did the second gas tank empty itself out spilling any leftover gas it had in it?
Can't afford to fill up both tanks
Tired of switch failure while pull a boat. Last time it failed I was pulling boat out of water. Not only have to have van towed now I have to find a way to get boat home. Failed twice out on interstate go 70. 18 gallon is plenty don't need the back 22 gallon to thats 40 gallons
What is that part called? Part number?
What the two metal lines I got from advance auto. They are in a bag. Hanging on a display rake in corner of store. Not a behind the counter iteam
Auto as the same
Where do you get those metal line that joined the two hoses together!
ADVANCE auto parts carries them. That's where I bought them
Mine like idles up and down, then turns off after 1 minute. Could this be the case?
Sure can be. Thats what mine did. There is a little tank that holds gas after the switch. That way you can switch tanks without it dyeing. Once that fuel is used it just dies. Let it sit a while and it will start up then die again.
Can that stop power from going to my fuel pump’s I did put a new relay for the fuel pump and still power
All I did was bypass fuel lines. Bypassed selector switch. I did not mess with wiring. There are three fuel pumps. One in each tank and a secondary one by fuel filter. If you do this make sure you NEVER flip the selector switch under dash or it will activate pump in unused tank send gas out.
Thx buddy 👍
Any issues so far? Planning on doing the same but with my rear tank
No Problems. Runs great. I use it to tow a boat.
What size are the lines you got???
ADvance Auto sells the line set to do it with. Thats where I got them...
5/16 and 3/8. 3/8 is your supply line
What is parts number
Did you have a problem of over tank over filling another tank? Without the switch?
Can't do that with it bypassed. Goes from tank to secondary pump, then filter and to engine. But that is what it was doing before I bypassed it. It was pumping gas to the other tank instead of the engine.
do you leave the tanks connected passivey?
Yes I left it hanging. Thought at the time was if the fuel pump in the tank went bad I could just switch to the rear tank. I don't need two tanks. That is alot of gas. I pull a boat to the river with it. Thats it.
😑 imma have to try this..I’m tired of my van not running..I got 2 brand new fuel tanks and a lot of other fuel related parts expect this valve. Imma have to try it out. I just want to hear it run! 👌🏽
Its real simple to do. I don't need two fuel tanks. I just pull a boat to the river with it.
@@outdoorswithcam awesome! I’ll try it out this weekend see how it goes! Thanks
What kind of truck do you need one for ?
Why can't I actually find mine. Everyone is able to shine a flash light and there it is I can't even find mine. Someone help. Able to show a video of not finding it
trace the fuel line out of the tank. There is a pressure, return and vent... Where is your fuel filter. It should be in frame rail. The secondary pump and filter is hidden by a shield in the frame rail.
Mine has a metal shield and a rubber boot over the top
Seeing as you have familiarized yourself with all of that under there and are nice and greasy, why don't you just disconnect the wiring connector to the rear tank to avoid any mishaps with the tank switching from inside the cab ? The pump insertion hole faces forward and is easy enough to get at for that purpose without having to loosen any straps or whatever. If for some reason you can't get the connector off, just snip the black wire that is part of its harness, leaving an inch or so of wire for re-connection in some future date, should you change your mind.
It has a red wire for pump power and a black for its ground. It has four connectors in the plug but one is not used. Besides the red and black for the pump the third is for the sending unit for the dash gauge. Now that takes the rear tank out of the picture completely.
I have a 1987 E-250 with duel tanks and am just now fussing with the same problem.
Looks like a cartridge fuel filter
The fuel filter is after the fuel pump on the frame towards the engine. I bypassed the selector switch between the two tanks. See the wireing harness going into the switch. Filters usually don't have a bunch of wires going into them
Take apart, drill out rivets, replace o rings, reassemble with machine screws and use Loctite.
Man... thanks for the video . Im having a similar problem and wanted to bypass the lines and wondered where to do the do. That selector sucks. Thanks again man!
Hope it works for you. It worked great for me.
@@outdoorswithcam 🤞😉
You bypassed your fuel filter.
The fuel filter is on the frame after the fuel pump. Fuel filters don't have a wireing harness going to them to turn on full pumps in the tanks. This This thing keeps breaking every 30K miles and just pumps gas from one tank to the other then instead of engine