A standard sparkplug socket works perfectly for removing and installing the axle nut. Use it reversed. That is, use a socket extension INSIDE the socket. The nur on the top of the socket is 19mm and works perfectly. You then have the leverage of a ratchet or breaker bar. Of course, you cand use a section of pipe or conduit, if necessary, if you use an Allen wrench. But, if you insist on buying a tool even though a sparkplu g socket that you already have works better than an Allen wrench, your better off getting a 19mm male drive for a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar. Another advantage of these methods is that you can then torque the axle nut properly. That said, thanks for posting this. I have a Rocket III Touring. The forks are a bit different than this Roadster's but this method should still save a lot of time and effort when I need to change the fork oil and seals. Thanks much! Darn! I just checked my factory service manual and there's a lot more to the Touring's forks. I may have to take the forks off the bike. Lots more parts and different design. The Touring has conventional forks.
Any time you need a larger size allen head, the head of a bolt will fit and you can either double-nut it or get a longer bolt, heat it up and bend it like an allen key!
If you don't have a lift you can use a vehicle. In a pinch I've pulled bikes up to the rocker panel and used the vehicle's wheels as tie down points for the straps. The bike won't go anywhere and you can use a standard automotive jack to lift it once it's tied down.
You're my savior. My clutch cable got stretched a bit but a I overtightened it. So now I have to replace the lifter pin and the cable. Just noticed yesterday some oil on the brake caliper and tire. Only on the right side but I'll just do both. I have an 05 classic with 9k on it. So just my luck huh? Although, the clutch cable and lifter pin is my fault; I did read that hard launches can wear it out pretty quick. I do like putting overzealous cars in their place so it was just a matter of time. Thanks for the heads up on the tools needed too.
@bharrison yes ,I want to see you do a wheelie on that big heavy monster just kidding about that I wouldn't have the courage to try that either lol. More video about motorcycle is always fun ,I don't care about which brand. I'm doing a rewiring job on a victory right now ,and then giving it away I'm trying to get better at reading wiring diagrams and making harnesses for my main project a vmax. So any wiring videos or more fork videos would be cool. Also I'm about to replace my rear shocks on my truimph I haven't replaced rear shocks before so if you have a video on that, it'd be awesome.
@@thedood4713 I definitely don't have the cajones to pull off any wheelies at my age!! 🤣🤣Maybe I'm too smart for that?? I've done a few wiring jobs myself. Hardest was converting an older 6 volt Suzuki to a 12 volt. I'd really like to try to wire up different guages since these guages tend to stop working and there are no replacements. I'll try to make it my winter project!
@bharrison I'm trying a new digital gauge ,I'll let you know if it's worth the 600 dollar price tag lol. I'm also trying some universal gauges Revival cycles has some cool wiring kits for m.o. blue unit ,I'm going to try an efi swap a old carb bike and see how that goes hopefully not too bad.
@@thedood4713 Definitely let me know! I've done a few of the cheap Chinese gauges which work but take some time since they never have instructions. I like the sounds of the digital gauge. Sounds exactly what I'm looking for.
Great video. How hard is it to change the fork springs once they are out of the tube? I would like to install some Progressive springs in my 2016 Roadster.
Hope it helps! The springs are very easy to do. At 13:38 in the video, you will see the complete spring assembly going back in. At this point, you could dismantle them and swap over with the progressive spring. I think you could do this without removing the entire assembly. You would just need to unbolt the top cap of the shock (making sure your front wheel is lifted so the spring is not under tension). Then push up the shock and unbolt the cap from the assembly and the spring can come off at this point. I'm thinking of doing the same.
Thanks for a great vid! I had a mechanic do mine a couple of mechanic do mine a couple of months ago, and recently noticed oil leaking from the damper bolt on the right hand fork. I tried to tighten it but the bolt just spins (i am assuming the damper is spinning internally). How i am I able to tighten that lower damper bolt without a special tool to hold it in place?
I did this in my 'Batwing' video to convert from the 2 headlight configuration to a single light but I didn't video it. It's a very basic process. Not much to document.
It seems to me that the cartridges would stay full of oil unless you work them. Wouldn't it be a problem for the amount of oil you put back in? Thanks for the vid.
I hear what you are saying but look at the components. Once you pull out the spring assembly, there is nothing left in the fork tube. There is no place for residual oil to hide unlike a typical Japanese fork - especially one that isn't inverted.
I tried this on my 2004 and the hidden Allen Key bolt at the bottom just keeps turning. I had to take the forks out and started to have a look at them.
It sounds like you jumped ahead and already took off the top end cap of the shock? If yes, just bolt it back in as this will hold the interior components and keep it from spinning so you can remove the bottom bolt.
Yes, you can. The oil level specified for Rocket III and Classic forks is 89 mm from the upper surface of the fork outer tube, with the springs removed and the fork fully compressed. Hope that helps!
Regarding the spinning damper rod bolt, if the oil does not leak then can the tire be reassembled and bike ridden until the bolt is eventually removed with the proper tool?
Hmmm. A few comments that it just spins when taking it out but not putting it back together. Have you tried an impact tool? Is the entire fork back together or just the inside spring assembly?
If you are a member of the Facebook group "The ORIGINAL Triumph Rocket III Owners Group", go to the main page and you will see a 'Files' tab. There is quite a bit of information there.
First of all - why would I polish something that has zero pitting and is clean? Second, you obviously don't understand the Rocket forks. They do not require bleeding like Japanese suspension. Maybe do some research before putting in your worthless 2 cents?
Ok, sounds like you have an issue with the locknut being loose. Try removing the top cap now to fix this issue. Do you have a copy of the service manual? If not, are you in the 'Triumph Rocket 3 Owners' group on Facebook? it's in the file section there. If not, give my your email and I'll send you a copy.
A standard sparkplug socket works perfectly for removing and installing the axle nut. Use it reversed. That is, use a socket extension INSIDE the socket. The nur on the top of the socket is 19mm and works perfectly. You then have the leverage of a ratchet or breaker bar. Of course, you cand use a section of pipe or conduit, if necessary, if you use an Allen wrench. But, if you insist on buying a tool even though a sparkplu
g socket that you already have works better than an Allen wrench, your better off getting a 19mm male drive for a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar. Another advantage of these methods is that you can then torque the axle nut properly. That said, thanks for posting this. I have a Rocket III Touring. The forks are a bit different than this Roadster's but this method should still save a lot of time and effort when I need to change the fork oil and seals. Thanks much!
Darn! I just checked my factory service manual and there's a lot more to the Touring's forks. I may have to take the forks off the bike. Lots more parts and different design. The Touring has conventional forks.
Good explanation mate. I was nervous to do this but feel alone more confident now
I've done lots of Japanese bikes and the Triumph is so much easier.
Thanks Brad, very good tutorial.
Thank you…may your beer always be cold and refreshing…
Best comment ever! Thank you brother. I hope this video helps.
A great helpful video mate. Made the job simple. Many thanks from Aus🇦🇺
Happy it helped!
Exactly what I needed. Much appreciated
Any time you need a larger size allen head, the head of a bolt will fit and you can either double-nut it or get a longer bolt, heat it up and bend it like an allen key!
I've done exactly that a time or 2! Great suggestion.
Thank for the video, it looks super easy. My only issue is lifting and securing the bike.
If you don't have a lift you can use a vehicle. In a pinch I've pulled bikes up to the rocker panel and used the vehicle's wheels as tie down points for the straps. The bike won't go anywhere and you can use a standard automotive jack to lift it once it's tied down.
Spot on mate from Western Australia
I hope it helps - From Western Canada.
You're my savior. My clutch cable got stretched a bit but a I overtightened it. So now I have to replace the lifter pin and the cable. Just noticed yesterday some oil on the brake caliper and tire. Only on the right side but I'll just do both. I have an 05 classic with 9k on it. So just my luck huh?
Although, the clutch cable and lifter pin is my fault; I did read that hard launches can wear it out pretty quick. I do like putting overzealous cars in their place so it was just a matter of time. Thanks for the heads up on the tools needed too.
I hope it helps! I broke my entire clutch cable 2 years ago while on the road. What a pain. I bet you won't over tighten it again!
It looks like a fantastic vidio, I think i`m going to replace mine on the back of this !!! Thanks
Very good can you show me how to change the coolant in the radiator
Great video! Can you make a video about how you jacked the bike up and how where you put the jacks?
Thank you, its a very good tutorial video I appreciate it.
Happy it helped! Anything else you would like to see?
@bharrison yes ,I want to see you do a wheelie on that big heavy monster just kidding about that I wouldn't have the courage to try that either lol. More video about motorcycle is always fun ,I don't care about which brand. I'm doing a rewiring job on a victory right now ,and then giving it away I'm trying to get better at reading wiring diagrams and making harnesses for my main project a vmax. So any wiring videos or more fork videos would be cool. Also I'm about to replace my rear shocks on my truimph I haven't replaced rear shocks before so if you have a video on that, it'd be awesome.
@@thedood4713 I definitely don't have the cajones to pull off any wheelies at my age!! 🤣🤣Maybe I'm too smart for that?? I've done a few wiring jobs myself. Hardest was converting an older 6 volt Suzuki to a 12 volt. I'd really like to try to wire up different guages since these guages tend to stop working and there are no replacements. I'll try to make it my winter project!
@bharrison I'm trying a new digital gauge ,I'll let you know if it's worth the 600 dollar price tag lol. I'm also trying some universal gauges Revival cycles has some cool wiring kits for m.o. blue unit ,I'm going to try an efi swap a old carb bike and see how that goes hopefully not too bad.
@@thedood4713 Definitely let me know! I've done a few of the cheap Chinese gauges which work but take some time since they never have instructions. I like the sounds of the digital gauge. Sounds exactly what I'm looking for.
Need to see this. Thank you
Perfect. I hope it helps!
Which direction does the bottom Allan bolt on the lower tube spin?
@@jayjetty7848 everything is standard. Loosen - anti-clockwise.
@@thedustynomad thank you
Thanks for this video 👍
Hope it helps Bobby!
Good job!
Great video. How hard is it to change the fork springs once they are out of the tube? I would like to install some Progressive springs in my 2016 Roadster.
Hope it helps! The springs are very easy to do. At 13:38 in the video, you will see the complete spring assembly going back in. At this point, you could dismantle them and swap over with the progressive spring. I think you could do this without removing the entire assembly. You would just need to unbolt the top cap of the shock (making sure your front wheel is lifted so the spring is not under tension). Then push up the shock and unbolt the cap from the assembly and the spring can come off at this point. I'm thinking of doing the same.
Great Video. Thank you.👍
Thanks for a great vid! I had a mechanic do mine a couple of mechanic do mine a couple of months ago, and recently noticed oil leaking from the damper bolt on the right hand fork. I tried to tighten it but the bolt just spins (i am assuming the damper is spinning internally). How i am I able to tighten that lower damper bolt without a special tool to hold it in place?
Wish someone would do a headlight bucket swap. Im pretty sure I gotta pull the wires out of the plug. Suckers are in there though
I did this in my 'Batwing' video to convert from the 2 headlight configuration to a single light but I didn't video it. It's a very basic process. Not much to document.
Great video
Thanks. I hope it helps Jay!
It seems to me that the cartridges would stay full of oil unless you work them. Wouldn't it be a problem for the amount of oil you put back in?
Thanks for the vid.
I hear what you are saying but look at the components. Once you pull out the spring assembly, there is nothing left in the fork tube. There is no place for residual oil to hide unlike a typical Japanese fork - especially one that isn't inverted.
I tried this on my 2004 and the hidden Allen Key bolt at the bottom just keeps turning. I had to take the forks out and started to have a look at them.
What did you find?
Yer awesome bro....thanks
I hope it helped! It's an easy job and cheaper than paying Triumph to do it!
The 10 mm bolt on the bottom will no pt release and the entire interior spins.
It sounds like you jumped ahead and already took off the top end cap of the shock? If yes, just bolt it back in as this will hold the interior components and keep it from spinning so you can remove the bottom bolt.
Mine still just turns and does not release.
14:33 Can you check and fill the fork oil level by removing the top cap without removing the bottom damper bolt?
Yes, you can. The oil level specified for Rocket III and Classic forks is 89 mm from the upper surface of the fork outer tube, with the springs removed and the fork fully compressed. Hope that helps!
Regarding the spinning damper rod bolt, if the oil does not leak then can the tire be reassembled and bike ridden until the bolt is eventually removed with the proper tool?
When I put the fork together the 10mm bolts on the bottom just rotate and don't get tight. Any ideas?
Hmmm. A few comments that it just spins when taking it out but not putting it back together. Have you tried an impact tool? Is the entire fork back together or just the inside spring assembly?
Where can one download a service manual?
If you are a member of the Facebook group "The ORIGINAL Triumph Rocket III Owners Group", go to the main page and you will see a 'Files' tab. There is quite a bit of information there.
First one came out as described. Second one “spun” and will not come out. What next.
Are you talking about the seal itself? Just pull straight down. It may take a bit of effort but it will come.
Wow! That is not the right way to do them, but it’s your bike.
You didn’t polish the tubes, or bleed the cartridge the right way.
First of all - why would I polish something that has zero pitting and is clean? Second, you obviously don't understand the Rocket forks. They do not require bleeding like Japanese suspension. Maybe do some research before putting in your worthless 2 cents?
Negative kemosabe. I went in the same order as the first side. It just turns…
Ok, sounds like you have an issue with the locknut being loose. Try removing the top cap now to fix this issue. Do you have a copy of the service manual? If not, are you in the 'Triumph Rocket 3 Owners' group on Facebook? it's in the file section there. If not, give my your email and I'll send you a copy.
How do I give you my email w/o posting it on the utube page we’re using. And no I don’t use social media, old and crotchety.
@@tjaylowden3539 Fair enough. Email me at harrisobr@gmail.com.