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Brad Harrison
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2009
วีดีโอ
Memphis Shades Batwing for Triumph Rocket III
มุมมอง 802ปีที่แล้ว
I buy a used batwing off Facebook marketplace and install it on a 2008 Triumph Rocket III
Made it to Santa Cruz in just 3 days! Ep 3
มุมมอง 10ปีที่แล้ว
I cruise through half of California from Redding to Santa Cruz. My goal is to get to LA and I can easily do that in one more day.
Washington, Oregon, California...in 1 day! Day 2
มุมมอง 12ปีที่แล้ว
Second day on the trip to California. Started in Yakima, WA going to Redding, CA. Oregon was the coldest part of the trip! So happy to head into the warmth of California!
Winter Motorcycle Trip - Canada to California Day 1
มุมมอง 39ปีที่แล้ว
Time for an adventure! Meeting with Duncan @thedustynomad who completed his journey from Kamloops, BC to Ushuaia, Argentina.. This is the middle of February and in later videos, you won't believe the weather we rode through!
DIY Triumph Rocket fork seals
มุมมอง 5Kปีที่แล้ว
This is a 2008 Triumph Rocket Classic with about 30k kms. I walk through the steps necessary to replace seals on this motorcycle.
Westside Rd 16/7/2022
มุมมอง 112 ปีที่แล้ว
An easy ride in Central British Columbia, Canada...until my clutch cable broke! Riding a 2008 Classic Triumph Rocket 3
Good explanation mate. I was nervous to do this but feel alone more confident now
I've done lots of Japanese bikes and the Triumph is so much easier.
That looks absolutely gorgeous
Wish someone would do a headlight bucket swap. Im pretty sure I gotta pull the wires out of the plug. Suckers are in there though
I did this in my 'Batwing' video to convert from the 2 headlight configuration to a single light but I didn't video it. It's a very basic process. Not much to document.
I’m happy to see another triumph owner installing a Memphis Shades. I’ve been chasing the idea of putting a batwing on my ‘04 America to make my highway commute more comfortable; I have a windscreen that works well enough until I get around 65 MPH, then the buffeting I experience rattles my head pretty good. Looks great! After a year, how are you feeling about the set up?
Love it! It works extremely well. I had the Triumph screen before this which was nice as it is wide but a bit of an eyesore to be honest. Definitely better wind protection. I'm tall at 6'3" (188 cm) so I see over the top of the screen so I ended up adding those windscreen clip ons at the top and my helmet has no more buffeting.
@@bharrison awesome, I’m glad to hear it! This encourages me to continue the pursuit. Thanks!
Thanks Brad, very good tutorial.
Thank for the video, it looks super easy. My only issue is lifting and securing the bike.
If you don't have a lift you can use a vehicle. In a pinch I've pulled bikes up to the rocker panel and used the vehicle's wheels as tie down points for the straps. The bike won't go anywhere and you can use a standard automotive jack to lift it once it's tied down.
Love your videos Brad. Watching this is almost as good as the ride. I know this takes time. I'm going to share it. Thank you so much.J
Wow! That is not the right way to do them, but it’s your bike. You didn’t polish the tubes, or bleed the cartridge the right way.
First of all - why would I polish something that has zero pitting and is clean? Second, you obviously don't understand the Rocket forks. They do not require bleeding like Japanese suspension. Maybe do some research before putting in your worthless 2 cents?
Very good can you show me how to change the coolant in the radiator
A standard sparkplug socket works perfectly for removing and installing the axle nut. Use it reversed. That is, use a socket extension INSIDE the socket. The nur on the top of the socket is 19mm and works perfectly. You then have the leverage of a ratchet or breaker bar. Of course, you cand use a section of pipe or conduit, if necessary, if you use an Allen wrench. But, if you insist on buying a tool even though a sparkplu g socket that you already have works better than an Allen wrench, your better off getting a 19mm male drive for a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar. Another advantage of these methods is that you can then torque the axle nut properly. That said, thanks for posting this. I have a Rocket III Touring. The forks are a bit different than this Roadster's but this method should still save a lot of time and effort when I need to change the fork oil and seals. Thanks much! Darn! I just checked my factory service manual and there's a lot more to the Touring's forks. I may have to take the forks off the bike. Lots more parts and different design. The Touring has conventional forks.
Nice find ,hey I like American bikes 😂 I like most bikes though. I have a touring edition 2008 got it for 2300 ,I'm about to change the fuel filter and sending unit for the gas gauge its been on the fritz.
Thank you, its a very good tutorial video I appreciate it.
Happy it helped! Anything else you would like to see?
@bharrison yes ,I want to see you do a wheelie on that big heavy monster just kidding about that I wouldn't have the courage to try that either lol. More video about motorcycle is always fun ,I don't care about which brand. I'm doing a rewiring job on a victory right now ,and then giving it away I'm trying to get better at reading wiring diagrams and making harnesses for my main project a vmax. So any wiring videos or more fork videos would be cool. Also I'm about to replace my rear shocks on my truimph I haven't replaced rear shocks before so if you have a video on that, it'd be awesome.
@@thedood4713 I definitely don't have the cajones to pull off any wheelies at my age!! 🤣🤣Maybe I'm too smart for that?? I've done a few wiring jobs myself. Hardest was converting an older 6 volt Suzuki to a 12 volt. I'd really like to try to wire up different guages since these guages tend to stop working and there are no replacements. I'll try to make it my winter project!
@bharrison I'm trying a new digital gauge ,I'll let you know if it's worth the 600 dollar price tag lol. I'm also trying some universal gauges Revival cycles has some cool wiring kits for m.o. blue unit ,I'm going to try an efi swap a old carb bike and see how that goes hopefully not too bad.
@@thedood4713 Definitely let me know! I've done a few of the cheap Chinese gauges which work but take some time since they never have instructions. I like the sounds of the digital gauge. Sounds exactly what I'm looking for.
Thanks for a great vid! I had a mechanic do mine a couple of mechanic do mine a couple of months ago, and recently noticed oil leaking from the damper bolt on the right hand fork. I tried to tighten it but the bolt just spins (i am assuming the damper is spinning internally). How i am I able to tighten that lower damper bolt without a special tool to hold it in place?
14:33 Can you check and fill the fork oil level by removing the top cap without removing the bottom damper bolt?
Yes, you can. The oil level specified for Rocket III and Classic forks is 89 mm from the upper surface of the fork outer tube, with the springs removed and the fork fully compressed. Hope that helps!
Regarding the spinning damper rod bolt, if the oil does not leak then can the tire be reassembled and bike ridden until the bolt is eventually removed with the proper tool?
When I put the fork together the 10mm bolts on the bottom just rotate and don't get tight. Any ideas?
Hmmm. A few comments that it just spins when taking it out but not putting it back together. Have you tried an impact tool? Is the entire fork back together or just the inside spring assembly?
Great video! Can you make a video about how you jacked the bike up and how where you put the jacks?
A great helpful video mate. Made the job simple. Many thanks from Aus🇦🇺
Happy it helped!
I tried this on my 2004 and the hidden Allen Key bolt at the bottom just keeps turning. I had to take the forks out and started to have a look at them.
What did you find?
Great Video. Thank you.👍
Where can one download a service manual?
If you are a member of the Facebook group "The ORIGINAL Triumph Rocket III Owners Group", go to the main page and you will see a 'Files' tab. There is quite a bit of information there.
Great video. How hard is it to change the fork springs once they are out of the tube? I would like to install some Progressive springs in my 2016 Roadster.
Hope it helps! The springs are very easy to do. At 13:38 in the video, you will see the complete spring assembly going back in. At this point, you could dismantle them and swap over with the progressive spring. I think you could do this without removing the entire assembly. You would just need to unbolt the top cap of the shock (making sure your front wheel is lifted so the spring is not under tension). Then push up the shock and unbolt the cap from the assembly and the spring can come off at this point. I'm thinking of doing the same.
You're my savior. My clutch cable got stretched a bit but a I overtightened it. So now I have to replace the lifter pin and the cable. Just noticed yesterday some oil on the brake caliper and tire. Only on the right side but I'll just do both. I have an 05 classic with 9k on it. So just my luck huh? Although, the clutch cable and lifter pin is my fault; I did read that hard launches can wear it out pretty quick. I do like putting overzealous cars in their place so it was just a matter of time. Thanks for the heads up on the tools needed too.
I hope it helps! I broke my entire clutch cable 2 years ago while on the road. What a pain. I bet you won't over tighten it again!
Spot on mate from Western Australia
I hope it helps - From Western Canada.
Good job!
Yer awesome bro....thanks
I hope it helped! It's an easy job and cheaper than paying Triumph to do it!
My project vehicle has a similar solenoid for the fuel pump - it’s a DME relay in the fuse box -$30 on rock auto. -
Negative kemosabe. I went in the same order as the first side. It just turns…
Ok, sounds like you have an issue with the locknut being loose. Try removing the top cap now to fix this issue. Do you have a copy of the service manual? If not, are you in the 'Triumph Rocket 3 Owners' group on Facebook? it's in the file section there. If not, give my your email and I'll send you a copy.
How do I give you my email w/o posting it on the utube page we’re using. And no I don’t use social media, old and crotchety.
@@tjaylowden3539 Fair enough. Email me at harrisobr@gmail.com.
The 10 mm bolt on the bottom will no pt release and the entire interior spins.
It sounds like you jumped ahead and already took off the top end cap of the shock? If yes, just bolt it back in as this will hold the interior components and keep it from spinning so you can remove the bottom bolt.
Mine still just turns and does not release.
First one came out as described. Second one “spun” and will not come out. What next.
Are you talking about the seal itself? Just pull straight down. It may take a bit of effort but it will come.
Thank you…may your beer always be cold and refreshing…
Best comment ever! Thank you brother. I hope this video helps.
Thanks for this video 👍
Hope it helps Bobby!
Exactly what I needed. Much appreciated
Need to see this. Thank you
Perfect. I hope it helps!
Which direction does the bottom Allan bolt on the lower tube spin?
@@jayjetty7848 everything is standard. Loosen - anti-clockwise.
@@thedustynomad thank you
Great video
Thanks. I hope it helps Jay!
It looks like a fantastic vidio, I think i`m going to replace mine on the back of this !!! Thanks
Any time you need a larger size allen head, the head of a bolt will fit and you can either double-nut it or get a longer bolt, heat it up and bend it like an allen key!
I've done exactly that a time or 2! Great suggestion.
It seems to me that the cartridges would stay full of oil unless you work them. Wouldn't it be a problem for the amount of oil you put back in? Thanks for the vid.
I hear what you are saying but look at the components. Once you pull out the spring assembly, there is nothing left in the fork tube. There is no place for residual oil to hide unlike a typical Japanese fork - especially one that isn't inverted.
Thank you for putting this on I will give that go thank you helping all of us
I hope it helps Neville. Sorry for the poor quality but I did this quite a few years ago. Let me know how it works out for you!
I will try, tks!!!
It's really not that difficult. It's an hour job once you are all set and ready to go. Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed video. I went out for the first start of the season to find my kipass unresponsive. I'm going to try your tricks and hope for the best...
Hi Rob. If it is the Kipass, this will fix it. I wouldn't bother fixing the solenoid. Just do the switch fix that I describe. You'll never have to worry about it again.
@@bharrison Sorry, just saw that you replied... My issue turned out to be a dead battery...first on the bike, then on the transponder. I guess she didn't winter well...despite the tender.
@@robr2154 All good news! Well, keep this in your back pocket should you need it. It seems to mostly affect 2008-2009 models.
@@bharrison Brad brilliant video, my bike did it for the first time in the arse end of nowhere but after tap taping it came OK and has been fine since, do you need to remove the top fairing to get at the gizmo and does the solenoid cover come off fine, I'm thinking a spray of electrical cleaner might help things..
@@Team-fabulous I'm happy it helped! I pulled the solenoid completely apart and cleaned it as you mentioned. It didn't solve the problem for me. Kawasaki replaces the spring (so I've heard) but I haven't done this. Instead, I do the interrupt switch and it always works now.
Hey brad does your bypass switch still work?
Still working great Matt. It's been 8 years and never a problem. I hope this helps if you are having trouble.
@@bharrison that’s great Brad. I’m looking at a C14 and a buddy said the kipass always breaks . I love your solution and I’m a little less nervous now. Just a little toggle switch? No big amperage?
@@Inuktuuk It's the most simple solution you can imagine. Any 12v toggle switch will do. No amperage to deal with and you'll never be left stranded because of this stupid system. You can get around it by tapping on the solenoid switch until it works but this is worth the 20 mins it will take you to install. AND this is still one of the best sport tourers out there. I highly recommend the bike!
@@bharrison thanks again I’m graduating from a c10
Really important Info Video many thanks to you 👍🥂
I never had a problem with either one of my Concours, i was thinkin, maybe blow it off real good with air again like you did, then spray a little silicone spray on that switch, dry lubricant wont attract dirt or dust, also put a new battery in yr Fob....
I have a GTR 1400 which is fantastic, however all these electronic gizmos are great until they fail... I mean why do you need a keyless system....
And that's why I love my 1000. No electronic gizmos to fail and leave me stranded.
@@bigpapa8152 agreed, I also had a GTR 1000 which was a fantastic bike..
I know I'm a little late, but I like keyless a lot. The downside is that I drive several different vehicles, and have no mental standard, so I get used to get out of the car and leaving the key in it, or walking away from the bike and forgetting to turn it off...
@@robr2154 I'm well used to it now and yes I like it too...
I really like these bikes and i had two of them, I sold them both because i did not want to have a problem with this nonsense. Give me a damn key!
THANKS FOR NTHE VIDEO HOPE THEY IMPROVED THIS KEY SWITHC MECHANICALS ON THE 2018 MODEL YEAR CONCOURS 14
tom73055 I HOPE SO, I JUST BOUGHT A 2019.
Looks like a blast! Perfect place to be in that heat.
Awesome Brad!!
Thanks Kelly! I almost crashed the drone into the lake! It's only 232 metres deep so fishing it out may have been a slightly problematic.
Ha ha ha!
Solenoid is bad.
Great work Brad! Thanks for all you did to make the trip so special!