Hello Ralph, I am glad that you now also have a 3D printer. For me (have had mine for many years) it was an absolute gamechanger. With a 3D printer, things are possible that I could never have done before. A few more tips from me: 1) If you use the inserts, make sure the hole is big enough to insert the insert (without the structure) cleanly. 2) As temperature (for the soldering iron) I always use a little bit more than the printing temperature (PLA: ca.220°C) With this "low" temperature you have a better control of the melting process. 3) Make sure that the soldering iron is clean (no solder on the tip). 4) CAD construction: Pay attention to the later used layer height. It makes little sense to use a height of 1.5mm if the part will be sliced with a layer height of 0.2mm. Better: 1.4 or 1.6mm. 5) PLA is really super. But note that PLA is not UV resistant. So if the components are exposed to sunlight, PETG is the better alternative. Or ABS/ASA. But a little more difficult to print. I hope this helps you and continue happy printing. Frank
Thanks for the tips, Frank. Yes, it was obvious that the hole was a bit too small in this video for the brass insert, but it sort of worked OK. Next time I'll do it right AND use a lower temperature on the soldering iron. I've used PETG for an outdoor project to protect from water and UV. But they've only been out there a month or so, we will see if they survive!
Congratulations on discovering the synergies between 3D printing and ESP/Arduino controllers. It's truly a 1+1 > 2 relationship. Looking forward to seeing what's next.
I've been using 3D printers for over 10 years now. I have both filament and resin printers. Each one has its strengths and weaknesses. Mostly I use them for prototyping and to make specialized detailed parts. They have become a valuable tool with my assorted hobbies.
Oh wow, a resin printer. I've seen videos of those and they look amazing but too much for me to take on at the moment. Who knows, another couple of years and I might well be looking at something else (like a 3D filament printer with multiple filaments, I can see the advantages of that already).
Hi, now you discovered 3d printing , you will find soon enough a lot of printing applications. I have a prusa for several years and only your imagination will be the limiting factor. Not olny you can make casings for your esp32 webcam, but you will find also some domestic uses. The lady of the house will make some suggestions too😂. Cable ties, boxes for screws, anemometer, small solarcells holder,.... the sky is the limit. Happy printing.
I printed (I might have shown this) a new wheel for our VAX cordless vacuum printer. That taught me a lot (about design) but the result was good (it's still going strong!) and I have refined the design since then. So the lady of the house is happy and doubtless impressed! Several other things too. Silly things but useful.
Got mine about a year ago. So nice to be able to realize my designs for real. Great for finding part designs for broken stuff on Thingiverse and bringing stuff back to life you'd otherwise have to throw out! 3D printing is great!
Bought my first 3D printer 6 or 7 years ago not certain about how much I'd use it. Turned into my most useful tool, second only to the computer. Enjoy using and learning about it. Great fun, and you'll soon have 3d prints all around the house doing things that commercial solutions dont address directly for your use cases.
Indeed, commercial solutions sometimes do not exist (a left-handed widget with a thingy on top, anyone?) so you just have to make it yourself. It's an exciting time for sure.
Good video. I've had a Creality 3 v2 for a couple of years and although the initial setup was tricky I've not really touched it (even to level the bed) in months. Making jigs and tools for my woodworking tools is really handy. But cases for projects is always fun.
Hi Ralph, Thanks for another interesting and useful video. I certainly agree how useful access to a 3D printer is. I have made parts for several projects and it's made the final results so much more functional and professional. One thing though, I haven't bought a printer as I am lucky enough to have a local public library that offers a 3D printing service. They only charge material cost, so for the few things I get printed it's definitely a good option. I'd recommend that anyone planning to get into 3D printing to see if they have a 3D printing service locally, preferably a public service one like mine but even a commercial one. The advantage is no capital outlay on the machine and spools of filament, no maintenance problems, and no buyer's regret when a better/cheaper model comes along. The major drawback of course is the time delay. In my case, the wait is usually a week, although I did one job back withing two days. Worth considering IMO.
I became weary of manual bed levelling, etc. Splurged on a Bambu Carbon X1. I'm almost productive, now. PLA is good for prototyping. I found that it will creep under load. Also, white filament is btw the most difficult to get right in terms of bed stability and temperature to ensure consistent layer bonding, especially on larger/taller prints. Even with the Bambu. Tip for newbies is to use transparent filament for prototypes. You can see what fits and any excess clearances.
@@RalphBacon True. It's comparatively loud but tolerable if you don't want to sleep in the same room while it's doing the night shift. Pay off is printing about 3 times faster than most "hobby" printers... And mine has the media management system that auto-changes between 4 filaments. Mind you, each change takes about 40 seconds.
Hello Ralph! First of all, congratulations on the 3D printer. I've been wondering for a long time whether a 3D printer would be a sensible purchase. However, I still stick to the position that everything could also be built using polymer / wood / aluminum / brass / etc., and that in variations that produce a higher mechanical resilience as a result. --- Therefore, I would be very pleased to hear what experiences you have with 3D printing in different areas, as well as where you see possible practical limitations compared to the more complex manual construction.
I thought like you for the longest time. But now I'm using a CAD program it just seems to be natural to build smaller, more refined solutions. But I'll do a follow-up video with some examples and the steps I take.
When I first started building robotics projects, I really struggled to source parts for the structural elements. That all changed when I bought a 3D printer. Now I print almost all the components. It has been a game changer. I would suggest though that you give Fusion 360 another go. I started out using FreeCAD and got really frustrated with it because the workflow is so clumsy. I bit the bullet and gave Fusion 369 a try and never looked back. Keep up the great work. I really enjoy watching your content.
Thanks, Shaun. I hear you regarding the workflow, but following the videos by MangoJelly has really helped me understand what is going on there. But in the fullness of time I might try Fusion 360 again (it's on my PC so now harm to try).
Your links to Freecad channels are worth exploring and thanks for these. I am on my first Esp32-S3 project having used lots of MCUs previously. I like your video format.
Hello Ralph! Nice content as always 👍. 1.2mm is perfect wall thickness for enclosures. I think you should give Fusion 360 another shot. The learning curve is actually not that steep. I’ve used it for years and it’s my go to program when it comes to 3D-printing.
Well, Fusion 360 was a steep learning curve for someone with no CAD appreciation. Now that I understand the _concepts_ better, thanks to FreeCAD, I might well revisit it.
Funny, I am at exactly the same point. Started learning Fusion360 for my CNC mill until they changed the hobby use rules. Now learning FreeCad, MangoJelly's videos are great. FreeCad has a quite steep learning curve very frustrating at first. Thin I am on my third go at the learning curve and beginning to get it. What's missing is the 20,000 foot view of the design process, give me that and I can figure out how the individual thing work. It was sort of like learning the rules for chess just by watching matches. Already printed very useful parts; metric change gears for the lathe, replacement shower wand holder, couple of electronic enclosures. Thanks for the nice video. Two thing I learned about FreeCad -- rename the pad's and pockets to something meaningful and keep the sketches very simple. Also, save often!
I liked your last two points, already implemented in most of my designs. Sounds like you have already got benefit from your 3D printer making useful items around the house, same as me!
I bought my Ender 3 v2 last summer. Did few upgrades and used it for making electronic project "boxes". Also have made some protective cases for proto boards . Also planning to try some "robotics". few idea that I want to test.
Yes, I need to make a project enclosure soon, just to ensure my understanding of the process is correct. I think it will be similar to the cable drum thing I showed here, but a different shape.
Very good, I have had a 3D printer for over 1 year and made all the objects for my Haunted House which used 13 Servos, Coin Acceptor, Fast LED, LCD display, LEDs, Relay, PCA 9685, Plugs and Sockets, Power Supplys, Sound Sensor, Speakers, Stepper Motor, plus more. I used about 1,700 lines of arduino code.
Wow! Impressive stuff, Steve! I've only had my printer for about 1 month but I had a design ready and waiting which made a huge difference - I printed it the same day I got it and it worked really well. It gave me confidence to do more!
@@RalphBacon Ive made loads of things for our flat as well, a door clip which holds the door open while we go out, brackets for the wife tools in the kitchen and i use tinkercad for it all, love your videos
Welcome to the world of 3D Printing, Ralph. As part of your FreeCAD learning experience I highly recommend that you learn how to use one of the Assembly Workbenches. As you design more useful parts you will start to create things which fit together (your cable storage drum is a first step) and these workbenches help you with fit and function without even printing anything. Good filament isn't cheap and, for the sake of the environment, we shouldn't be wasting it and sending it to landfill (not much 3D filament is recycled yet). Be a responsible printer. Once you learn the clearances you need for a particular application you can prototype your designs in FreeCAD (you can even simulate motion through animation if you wish). I typically spend 90% of my time on FreeCAD design and assembly with the remaining 10% of the time on the printer.
I aspire to follow your example, Neil. More time designing, less time printing. But as a beginner I send little bits of my "greatest design" to the printer just to ensure it's what I expect, size-wise, fit-wise and so on. But it's potentially wasteful. And slows everything down. So, assembly workbench here we come! Coincidentally, I was watching a MangoJelly video last night that used an assembly but I fell asleep so need to watch it again when I'm more alert (and not after a glass or two of 🍷Merlot). Thanks for the nudge and eco-friendly warning!
I use those inserts quite a lot. I measured the little spigot on the bottom and make sure the hole in the print is slightly larger, so you can "plug" the insert in cold and its a lot easier to get it in straight when you put the soldering iron on. Its so much better than making hex recesses or slots for nuts that will fall off when you disassemble something. I use my 3D printer to make custom cases for modules I get of eBay or for other projects I am building, its cheaper and so much neater than buying project boxes I use OpenSCAD and various OpenSCAD scripts to make various types of boxes that allow you to make custom boxes. Freecad is a great program which I also use, but it does have a steep learning curve abd some cryptic error messages, but with practice you develop "procedures" that work and Mangojelly's videos outline these in the early videos are great and I would recommend him to anyone as well as his later more complex videos. One tip: if you are having problems with prints that have a large continuous layer on the botton (like a box) lifting at the edges, make sure the bed temperature on the first layer and subsequent layers are the same (its usually somewhere on filament settings) I found that the second layer was cooling too fast and lifting the corners of my boxes sometimes detaching a whole side. My prrinter has a coated glass bed rather than the detachable flexi bed yours has, so you may have a different experience. Getting the right way to bed adhesion of your printer is something that can take time fo get right but I haven't had problems since I started using a blon of PVA glue wiped over the bed with a damp cloth before you start heating the bed that creates a sticky file that seems to stop lifthing and also stops materials like PETG from sticking too hard as it can bond irretrievably to a clean bed surface.....
Good tips for me there, Ian, thank you. I've only ever had one print warp (took me by surprise, as I was using PLA) but a couple have shifted mid print. Now I use the smooth plate (rather than the textured one) for PLA and it's been problem free. I will use the textured for PETG. I also have a 0.6mm nozzle that I want to switch to... "soon", as it's now the standard size from Prusa. Quicker prints (if you want) but with as much control as the 0,4mm, allegedly.
HOW MANY??? You got a print farm there, for sure. 😮 I can see where a larger version of my printer would come in useful, but then again why not use PCBWay for those one-off large prints?
Great video as always. I bought my 3D printer a year ago and so far only printed 1 item that I designed myself using Fusion 360. Other prints I have download from the internet, including Arduino enclosures for the UNO and Nano. Year before that I bought a CNC Milling machine that I found very useful for machining panels/casework for projects. A couple of my projects can be found on youtube.
I've found there are many, many parametric enclosure designs on the Internet - just plug in the sizes WxDxH you want and it's done! But whilst that is great, designing stuff ourselves, as a unique item, is what I love about 3D printing.
I think you did the right thing buying a Prusa. I bought a Creality Ender 3 and while it's a good printer I had terrible trouble with it to start with. Turns out the bed wasn't flat and messed around for ages not understanding why it wouldn't work. Just like you I don't want to know all the tinkering elements, I just want to use it to produce things. Good tools cost money and it is well spent money wise rather than in labour in this case.
You hit the nail on the head, Carl. Plug in (well, assemble, then plug in) and go. Pretty much. I did install a replacement front cover so the on/off was at the front along with the USB socket but as I send the designs via the network from my PC that bit is a bit redundant now.
Is the white round box just to put a bit of wire? That's called a service loop or drip loop. It doesn't need a whole separate thing. At the wire termination, *in the relay box *, add 2" to required length, attach terminals, make a loop with the wire and screw down terminals. (Your assembly and wiring are typically excellent.)
It _is_ just to put in a bit of (extra) wire but let me explain. BTW thanks for your kind words about my wiring and assembly 🙏 It's not a drip loop (this module is for _inside_ my workshop) but the cable is a single, continuous length from the pond controller module, all the way down the garden to the pond sockets (inside a waterproof box). Thus, if I were to ever need "more" cable (because of changes or because I accidentally nicked the cable whilst stripping it, or fitting the ferrules), I would be well and truly up the creek without a paddle. So this device just allows me to "hide" about 30cm of extra cable inside it for such an event. It's fitted now (I'll probably show it in a future video) but there are some changes I could have made, knowing what I now know (always the way).
Thanks Ralph, love the pond controller board and enclosure. You have been gently pushing me towards esp 32. I actually have two esp 32 cams integrated into my home automation system. Have written the web site to be served by the esp 32, but not yet have the nerve to replace the Mega with esp 32. A 3d printer is a big leap for me, but as Brits say, I am just a "plunker"?
You are not a "plonker" (th-cam.com/video/ahcuPHVz6aM/w-d-xo.html ) at all, it's quite a leap to replace one design by another. That's why I always prototype my designs before committing - that way, you _know_ it's going to work when done. Of course, a Mega has a gazillion GPIOs, the ESP32 is more limited and you have to be careful which ones you use for what purpose (eg boot time, code loading etc). Before you commit to a 3D printer, ensure you can use a CAD program, such as FreeCAD, TinkerCAD or (big breath) Fusion 360! (Others are out there).
Nice one Ralph. I’ve consumed a lot of the videos of mangojelly. Very useful stuff. I must say. Your build becoming to look more and more like commercial products. Nice to see that all the hard work does leed to very nice executed projects.
Thanks you Gerard, nice of you to say. And, yes, MangoJelly is very useful, albeit he does speed through some of the operations! How does he know all this stuff, from all the workbenches? But very useful.
I was waiting on the "hhhheyyyyyy" at the end... maybe next time. Great video Ralph. I think I just might get a 3D printer since I seem to constantly be looking for just the right project container in a store.
I've had a 3D printer for a couple of years now, here's a trick for tight bits - give it a waft with a heat gun. You can get a lovey snug fit that way from parts that were just too tight to go together. I tend to use blender or openscad for designing parts and Cura for slicing but I'm no expert - use what you're comfortable with
The ones I bought were from Amazon (quick delivery but pricey at £9.49 for 120 pieces) and were M3 x 4mm x 5mm: amzn.to/41ubLSP but there are many sizes (and prices), the cheapest being AliExpress (with the wait). You can get longer ones, shorter ones, fatter ones... the list goes on. As you saw, this was the very first time I used one and it worked so well I will probably use them for lid screws and the like in future.
How are you going to waterproof the sensor? mains and damp air cause problems after awhile. You have to remember that the air pressure in the box will go up and down as the temperature changes. so can quite easily suck in any water collecting around the sensor.
This control module will live _inside_ my workshop (on the wall). No dampness😮here. The "other end" is just main electrics inside a "waterproof" IP54 box designed for the job. More details when I have finished implementing.
@@RalphBacon it just looked like a nice waterproof box, with the seal on the edge. So i thought that you had gone to that expense, then thought it was strange you cut a hole in it. I sit corrected. 🙂
I bought a Prusa Mini+ because of several reasons (which I will elaborate on in my next 3D printer video). So: 1) Reasonably cost effective. Not cheap but I wanted turnkey in operation. 2) Delivered partially assembled. Took about a hour to connect the three bits together. 3) Well supported by Prusa in terms of support, parts, guarantee and software updates. Although having to send it back to Czechoslovakia would not be much fun nor cheap. 4) Compact. Fits next to my monitors (you might have seen this in this video). I have no requirement for large prints so this one (180mm x 180mm x 180mm max) suits me just fine (for now🤷♂️ anyway). However, before you decide on the actual printer, you need to at least get to grips with a CAD program of your choice. I use FreeCAD (a bit of a learning curve but MangoJelly has dozens of videos explaining all features), but TinkerCAD is easier (kids use it). If you're really going for it, the very complex but superbly capable Fusion 360 is still free for hobbyists. Until you understand CAD, don't even think about a printer. Downloading designs by others from the Internet might suit some but not me. I want to make stuff for me (or amend others' designs). 'Nuff said (for now). 👍
Like the channel. I personally use pla for test prints but ABS for final, especially if it going outside. Also don't accidentally leave a PLA in the car, it can get a little droopy😣
I use an old ender clone. Best way is trial and error until you find something that works on your printer. The biggest thing that helped me is a cheap home made enclosure. I used 1 inch insulating foam from my local building supply. A heated bead is important. I even set up a cheap heat gun and a thermal controller, but I don't know it that was necessary.
@@user-fr3hy9uh6y Thank you. Yes, all my ABS printing has been successful ever since I added an enclosure for my very basic ender clone printer over a year ago.
@@RalphBacon you 'can' design while waiting for china parts.... took weeks to get mine right lol, but with the repairs also being upgrades its just run and run the last 4+ years. i need tu build a better larger one, at least 500x500x500 with an engaving head for pcbs and facias
Why did you make the "tower" for the PIR sensor with "holes"? - Looks cool, no question - If you want to save material: OK - If you want to save printing time:Probably not Background: For the small elements the printer needs longer (load filament, unload, move to new position, etc.) If printed without "holes", the printer is in flow. --> probably faster Greeting Frank
I printed the prototype _without_ holes. But then I wanted to practice the polar pattern. Actually I wanted to do a spiral pattern but I did not have the skills (yet) so opted for this. I wasn't too worried about print speed, it just chugs along whilst I make videos!
I wondered how long it would be before you were tempted by 3D printing. My biggest problem with projects was finding the right object to put it in, now I have no excuse.
Yes, you did, Joey, but you might as well have been talking about Advanced String Theory, because at the time it was all too much! But now... well, I should have listened to you!
You could try 3D bed glue. It's like Prit Stick (white glue stick) but designed for 3D prints (and costs about 10x as much but you only need a _tiny_ amount). Worked for me. Well, that and cleaning the bed scrupulously with IPA (alcohol not beer) each time.
@@RalphBacon I clean the bed on the Bambu after each print. It's magnetic and I rinse it under warm water until all the glue has been dissolved. Yes, the glue from the stick... Re-applied shortly before the next print.
Use a 4mil feeler gauge to set it so you can feel it make contact. That first layer needs to be squished onto the bed. Also use a brim. I've had a 3d printer for 4 months now so I ran into the same problem.
i am thinking about buying a 3D printer but i have the same worries about learning to use a new program (CAD). Fusion 360 might not be the right tool for every one. There quite a few programs out there with different layout and interface. you just need to find the right one.
If you are prepared to do the groundwork (and homework) and follow both those channels I mentioned, in order, then they would allow you to get a really good understanding of FreeCAD, which being Open Source, won't suddenly lock you out of your account one day! But these things take time. My goal was to just learn one new thing about FreeCAD per day. Sometimes it's more but always one thing, even if it seems inconsequential. And to actually practice using it, not necessarily printing anything at all (yet).
No, I don't think it's possible although I'm sure someone has already done it! As others have said, though, I should have added bracing struts or ribs to give it rigidity rather than just making it thicker.
Great video Ralph. I love my printer but I tend to just download files from Thingiverse so far. I really would like to design stuff to order as you have.
@@RalphBacon I'd also suggest a resin printer. Don't fancy the mess and post printing cleaning? Well most video on resin printing, is by people printing mega detailed miniature figures. Fact is I use mine for very much what you are doing with cases for projects. For this I can simply dry the print off with paper towel, give it a blast under UV and it's done. For shallow objects like small cases, then it's fast, accurate and has a great smooth finish. I can friction fit most lids without any tolerance. I have both FDM and Resin and find myself turning to the resin printer more and more.
I have had a 3D printer for a good few years now and it is very handy for printing things, but I use Cura Ultimate as the Slicer and for a simple box 5" x 2" x 2" the print can take 3-4 hours ++ even when printing at 200-300 times in speed that is the draw back for me ( I lack patience it would seem) but they are very good but understand the limitations of using it. My printer unlike yours is a Ender 3 V2🤓🤠
So many printers on the market, right? But Creality and Prusa seem to be doing well, and if you have the money the new Bamboo (Bambu?) is apparently really quick too.
That slim bottom part would not easily crack. You mentioned it being 0.6mm, so probably 3 layers high and those solid layers are printed with 90 degrees direction change between them, which gives a nice strong set, even if flexible. Parts printed vertically (so walls or that peg in the middle holding the bolt) will be your weak point as those are relying on layers adhering well together and for PLA the plastic binds much stronger within one layer than accross layers. And you find FreeCAD easier than Fusion360? What? I've tried using FreeCAD 5 times to get away from the risk of Autodesk stopping the free use, but I always hit major walls. Only allowing a single surface in a sketch for extrusions, not being able to use a single sketch for multiple things (how do you then design correct constraints between different parts?), having multiple workbenches with similar functionality but not really working together ... Nah, gimme Fusion 360 or OnShape any day ...
But I'm pretty sure it would deform if the mains cable were to press against it (6-core mains cable can be quite stubborn) so I'm happier with my thicker lid, although as others have suggested I could have reinforced it with struts rather than increase the thickness.
Another free CAD program worth looking at is DesignSpark Mechanical from RS Components. This is the easiest 3D CAD program I've used to date. You Tuber Jim Taylor has some great videos on how to use it.
The 3D printer is the best tool I have ever purchased. Printing ABS requires elevated temperatures and control of drafts, so an enclosed printer or an enclosure built around the printer. ABS shrinks more than most plastics when it cools so warping and sizing is more problematic. PETG is a good choice for many purposes, shrinks less and is easier to print. Vorons are well known for printing ABS and are made with parts printed from ABS. The printer shown here is a Prusa Mini. The printed parts on a Prusa Mini are mostly made with PETG. The cooling air shroud right next to the hotend may be printed with ABS for its higher temperature capability. Temperature wise PETG can handle 70C and ABS 90C whereas PLA is around 50C before they get soft. So PETG is good for most things and ABS is even better. PLA is pretty easy to damage with hot sun but is fine for most indoor uses. Happy Printing!
On that basis, I'm going to stick with PLA and PETG (especially on the first layer, see what I did there😁) before trying more advanced (and tricky) plastics!
I found freecad to be a real nightmare to use sometimes, especially changing the dimentions after it has been designed, it just breaks everything requiring to basically rip it up and start again regardless of how careful it was designed. It also doesnt do what you expect it to do, often needing you do a real round about way to achive something that should be simple. I have moved away from freecad and just paid for a maker subscription with solidworks and it is a real dream to use compared to freecad, dont think i would ever go back. You get what you pay for i suppose.
Horses for courses. If you see what JellyMango can do with FreeCAD you would probably change your mind, but each to their own. Certainly, I've found that making amendments way back in the project structure can really screw things up, but I've learned not to do that now!
Another good Freecad channel is @Adventuresincreation he does some great videos. But once you have the 3D printer and can make things with addition of material, then you feel the need to get a laser cutter to remove material. Now i need a bigger toy room.
You will probably get a lot of people telling you, you should use one program over another, whether it's for design or slicing. The best one is the one you you can get to grips with, and works for you. That said I found onshape very powerful. In the free version all your designs are free for all to copy and try, and it runs in your browser and you do need to sign up. Despite that it's still worth a look. If you do want to take a look don't jump in on your own try. youtube.com/@TeachingTech Both for 3d printing tips and also onshape tutorials. Hope you have fun with 3D printing.
@@RalphBacon If I understand correctly OnShape has told utube creators that they must use a paid license since utube is a commercial situation. Several high level utube creators dropped it when this happened. Teaching Tech is more recently pushing it so perhaps something changed again, but personally I don't care for companies who mess with licensing and change the rules midstream. FreeCAD and OpenSCAD are a bit more trouble to learn but they avoid a lot of future pain like changing licenses.
Hello Ralph,
I am glad that you now also have a 3D printer. For me (have had mine for many years) it was an absolute gamechanger. With a 3D printer, things are possible that I could never have done before.
A few more tips from me:
1) If you use the inserts, make sure the hole is big enough to insert the insert (without the structure) cleanly.
2) As temperature (for the soldering iron) I always use a little bit more than the printing temperature (PLA: ca.220°C) With this "low" temperature you have a better control of the melting process.
3) Make sure that the soldering iron is clean (no solder on the tip).
4) CAD construction: Pay attention to the later used layer height.
It makes little sense to use a height of 1.5mm if the part will be sliced with a layer height of 0.2mm. Better: 1.4 or 1.6mm.
5) PLA is really super. But note that PLA is not UV resistant. So if the components are exposed to sunlight, PETG is the better alternative. Or ABS/ASA. But a little more difficult to print.
I hope this helps you and continue happy printing.
Frank
Thanks for the tips, Frank. Yes, it was obvious that the hole was a bit too small in this video for the brass insert, but it sort of worked OK. Next time I'll do it right AND use a lower temperature on the soldering iron.
I've used PETG for an outdoor project to protect from water and UV. But they've only been out there a month or so, we will see if they survive!
Congratulations on discovering the synergies between 3D printing and ESP/Arduino controllers. It's truly a 1+1 > 2 relationship. Looking forward to seeing what's next.
I like that formula, Tom. Very true.👍 I'll do a follow up video later when I have structured it a bit better than this one!
I've been using 3D printers for over 10 years now. I have both filament and resin printers. Each one has its strengths and weaknesses. Mostly I use them for prototyping and to make specialized detailed parts. They have become a valuable tool with my assorted hobbies.
Oh wow, a resin printer. I've seen videos of those and they look amazing but too much for me to take on at the moment. Who knows, another couple of years and I might well be looking at something else (like a 3D filament printer with multiple filaments, I can see the advantages of that already).
Hi, now you discovered 3d printing , you will find soon enough a lot of printing applications. I have a prusa for several years and only your imagination will be the limiting factor. Not olny you can make casings for your esp32 webcam, but you will find also some domestic uses. The lady of the house will make some suggestions too😂. Cable ties, boxes for screws, anemometer, small solarcells holder,.... the sky is the limit. Happy printing.
I printed (I might have shown this) a new wheel for our VAX cordless vacuum printer. That taught me a lot (about design) but the result was good (it's still going strong!) and I have refined the design since then. So the lady of the house is happy and doubtless impressed! Several other things too. Silly things but useful.
Got mine about a year ago. So nice to be able to realize my designs for real. Great for finding part designs for broken stuff on Thingiverse and bringing stuff back to life you'd otherwise have to throw out! 3D printing is great!
Absolutely! The trick, of course, is knowing _how_ to design the broken part. That's why I'm putting some effort into that side of things!
Bought my first 3D printer 6 or 7 years ago not certain about how much I'd use it. Turned into my most useful tool, second only to the computer. Enjoy using and learning about it. Great fun, and you'll soon have 3d prints all around the house doing things that commercial solutions dont address directly for your use cases.
Indeed, commercial solutions sometimes do not exist (a left-handed widget with a thingy on top, anyone?) so you just have to make it yourself. It's an exciting time for sure.
Your wiring and placements in the control box is so neat!
Thank you for noticing! I try my best, and keep the mains wiring very separate from the ESP32 low voltage stuff.
Good video. I've had a Creality 3 v2 for a couple of years and although the initial setup was tricky I've not really touched it (even to level the bed) in months. Making jigs and tools for my woodworking tools is really handy. But cases for projects is always fun.
I've yet to do a case for a project (as I have so many still lying about) but I'm sure a need will arise soon!
Some thoughtful system engineering there Ralph - well done.
Thanks, Stuart! Baby steps for sure, but still steps!
Hi Ralph, Thanks for another interesting and useful video. I certainly agree how useful access to a 3D printer is. I have made parts for several projects and it's made the final results so much more functional and professional.
One thing though, I haven't bought a printer as I am lucky enough to have a local public library that offers a 3D printing service. They only charge material cost, so for the few things I get printed it's definitely a good option. I'd recommend that anyone planning to get into 3D printing to see if they have a 3D printing service locally, preferably a public service one like mine but even a commercial one. The advantage is no capital outlay on the machine and spools of filament, no maintenance problems, and no buyer's regret when a better/cheaper model comes along. The major drawback of course is the time delay. In my case, the wait is usually a week, although I did one job back withing two days. Worth considering IMO.
A good point, Rich, and definitely worth considering, if only as part of the purchase decision making process.
I became weary of manual bed levelling, etc. Splurged on a Bambu Carbon X1.
I'm almost productive, now.
PLA is good for prototyping. I found that it will creep under load.
Also, white filament is btw the most difficult to get right in terms of bed stability and temperature to ensure consistent layer bonding, especially on larger/taller prints. Even with the Bambu.
Tip for newbies is to use transparent filament for prototypes. You can see what fits and any excess clearances.
Wow! I saw mention of the Bambu, supposed to be really quick. True?
@@RalphBacon
True. It's comparatively loud but tolerable if you don't want to sleep in the same room while it's doing the night shift.
Pay off is printing about 3 times faster than most "hobby" printers... And mine has the media management system that auto-changes between 4 filaments. Mind you, each change takes about 40 seconds.
So if you're using all 4 filaments on the same layer, that's about 3 minutes per layer.
Printing can then appear glacial.
It must use a different nozzle per filament I'm guessing? Otherwise it would have to unload, reload and purge.
@@RalphBacon that's why it takes 40 seconds... Just the one nozzle, etc.
Hello Ralph! First of all, congratulations on the 3D printer. I've been wondering for a long time whether a 3D printer would be a sensible purchase. However, I still stick to the position that everything could also be built using polymer / wood / aluminum / brass / etc., and that in variations that produce a higher mechanical resilience as a result. --- Therefore, I would be very pleased to hear what experiences you have with 3D printing in different areas, as well as where you see possible practical limitations compared to the more complex manual construction.
I thought like you for the longest time. But now I'm using a CAD program it just seems to be natural to build smaller, more refined solutions. But I'll do a follow-up video with some examples and the steps I take.
When I first started building robotics projects, I really struggled to source parts for the structural elements. That all changed when I bought a 3D printer. Now I print almost all the components. It has been a game changer. I would suggest though that you give Fusion 360 another go. I started out using FreeCAD and got really frustrated with it because the workflow is so clumsy. I bit the bullet and gave Fusion 369 a try and never looked back. Keep up the great work. I really enjoy watching your content.
Thanks, Shaun. I hear you regarding the workflow, but following the videos by MangoJelly has really helped me understand what is going on there. But in the fullness of time I might try Fusion 360 again (it's on my PC so now harm to try).
Your links to Freecad channels are worth exploring and thanks for these. I am on my first Esp32-S3 project having used lots of MCUs previously. I like your video format.
Well thanks for the feedback 32bits. This particular video didn't have my usual format but it made a change for everyone, I think!
Very nice. Good thoughts on the transition to 3d printing. Thanks fo sharing.
A 3D printer is now a consumable item, I reckon!
Hello Ralph!
Nice content as always 👍.
1.2mm is perfect wall thickness for enclosures.
I think you should give Fusion 360 another shot. The learning curve is actually not that steep. I’ve used it for years and it’s my go to program when it comes to 3D-printing.
Well, Fusion 360 was a steep learning curve for someone with no CAD appreciation. Now that I understand the _concepts_ better, thanks to FreeCAD, I might well revisit it.
Funny, I am at exactly the same point. Started learning Fusion360 for my CNC mill until they changed the hobby use rules. Now learning FreeCad, MangoJelly's videos are great. FreeCad has a quite steep learning curve very frustrating at first. Thin I am on my third go at the learning curve and beginning to get it. What's missing is the 20,000 foot view of the design process, give me that and I can figure out how the individual thing work. It was sort of like learning the rules for chess just by watching matches. Already printed very useful parts; metric change gears for the lathe, replacement shower wand holder, couple of electronic enclosures. Thanks for the nice video.
Two thing I learned about FreeCad -- rename the pad's and pockets to something meaningful and keep the sketches very simple. Also, save often!
I liked your last two points, already implemented in most of my designs. Sounds like you have already got benefit from your 3D printer making useful items around the house, same as me!
I bought my Ender 3 v2 last summer. Did few upgrades and used it for making electronic project "boxes". Also have made some protective cases for proto boards .
Also planning to try some "robotics". few idea that I want to test.
Yes, I need to make a project enclosure soon, just to ensure my understanding of the process is correct. I think it will be similar to the cable drum thing I showed here, but a different shape.
Very good,
I have had a 3D printer for over 1 year and made all the objects for my Haunted House which used 13 Servos, Coin Acceptor, Fast LED, LCD display, LEDs,
Relay, PCA 9685, Plugs and Sockets, Power Supplys, Sound Sensor,
Speakers, Stepper Motor, plus more.
I used about 1,700 lines of arduino code.
Wow! Impressive stuff, Steve! I've only had my printer for about 1 month but I had a design ready and waiting which made a huge difference - I printed it the same day I got it and it worked really well. It gave me confidence to do more!
@@RalphBacon Ive made loads of things for our flat as well, a door clip which holds the door open while we go out, brackets for the wife tools in the kitchen and i use tinkercad for it all, love your videos
Welcome to the world of 3D Printing, Ralph.
As part of your FreeCAD learning experience I highly recommend that you learn how to use one of the Assembly Workbenches.
As you design more useful parts you will start to create things which fit together (your cable storage drum is a first step) and these workbenches help you with fit and function without even printing anything.
Good filament isn't cheap and, for the sake of the environment, we shouldn't be wasting it and sending it to landfill (not much 3D filament is recycled yet). Be a responsible printer.
Once you learn the clearances you need for a particular application you can prototype your designs in FreeCAD (you can even simulate motion through animation if you wish).
I typically spend 90% of my time on FreeCAD design and assembly with the remaining 10% of the time on the printer.
I aspire to follow your example, Neil. More time designing, less time printing. But as a beginner I send little bits of my "greatest design" to the printer just to ensure it's what I expect, size-wise, fit-wise and so on. But it's potentially wasteful. And slows everything down.
So, assembly workbench here we come! Coincidentally, I was watching a MangoJelly video last night that used an assembly but I fell asleep so need to watch it again when I'm more alert (and not after a glass or two of 🍷Merlot).
Thanks for the nudge and eco-friendly warning!
I use those inserts quite a lot. I measured the little spigot on the bottom and make sure the hole in the print is slightly larger, so you can "plug" the insert in cold and its a lot easier to get it in straight when you put the soldering iron on. Its so much better than making hex recesses or slots for nuts that will fall off when you disassemble something. I use my 3D printer to make custom cases for modules I get of eBay or for other projects I am building, its cheaper and so much neater than buying project boxes
I use OpenSCAD and various OpenSCAD scripts to make various types of boxes that allow you to make custom boxes.
Freecad is a great program which I also use, but it does have a steep learning curve abd some cryptic error messages, but with practice you develop "procedures" that work and Mangojelly's videos outline these in the early videos are great and I would recommend him to anyone as well as his later more complex videos.
One tip: if you are having problems with prints that have a large continuous layer on the botton (like a box) lifting at the edges, make sure the bed temperature on the first layer and subsequent layers are the same (its usually somewhere on filament settings) I found that the second layer was cooling too fast and lifting the corners of my boxes sometimes detaching a whole side. My prrinter has a coated glass bed rather than the detachable flexi bed yours has, so you may have a different experience. Getting the right way to bed adhesion of your printer is something that can take time fo get right but I haven't had problems since I started using a blon of PVA glue wiped over the bed with a damp cloth before you start heating the bed that creates a sticky file that seems to stop lifthing and also stops materials like PETG from sticking too hard as it can bond irretrievably to a clean bed surface.....
Good tips for me there, Ian, thank you.
I've only ever had one print warp (took me by surprise, as I was using PLA) but a couple have shifted mid print. Now I use the smooth plate (rather than the textured one) for PLA and it's been problem free. I will use the textured for PETG.
I also have a 0.6mm nozzle that I want to switch to... "soon", as it's now the standard size from Prusa. Quicker prints (if you want) but with as much control as the 0,4mm, allegedly.
Wow, your 3D printer looks amazing!
It's a Prusa Mini+ and seems to work very well.
Always fun to watch 'live like' vids. Especially when you learn a cuppla things 😊
I'm glad you liked it! It was a bit unstructured (and the time flow was a bit back and forth) but I think it got the message across!
Thank you and you are one of us. I got 11 printers so far mostly different size.
HOW MANY??? You got a print farm there, for sure. 😮 I can see where a larger version of my printer would come in useful, but then again why not use PCBWay for those one-off large prints?
@@RalphBacon I could use it, I be making 3d metal version from PCBWay. 😁
Great video as always. I bought my 3D printer a year ago and so far only printed 1 item that I designed myself using Fusion 360. Other prints I have download from the internet, including Arduino enclosures for the UNO and Nano. Year before that I bought a CNC Milling machine that I found very useful for machining panels/casework for projects. A couple of my projects can be found on youtube.
I've found there are many, many parametric enclosure designs on the Internet - just plug in the sizes WxDxH you want and it's done! But whilst that is great, designing stuff ourselves, as a unique item, is what I love about 3D printing.
Great progress, hint, you could have added just some tiny radial ribs internal the cover lid and it would be stiff enough.
Yes, that would have been a better idea, rather than just increasing the thickness. See, you've helped me already, thanks Claudio.
Welcome to the tribe, my Prusa changed my projects profoundly.
Thanks for the endorsement of my 3D printer decision, Greg!
I think you did the right thing buying a Prusa. I bought a Creality Ender 3 and while it's a good printer I had terrible trouble with it to start with. Turns out the bed wasn't flat and messed around for ages not understanding why it wouldn't work. Just like you I don't want to know all the tinkering elements, I just want to use it to produce things. Good tools cost money and it is well spent money wise rather than in labour in this case.
You hit the nail on the head, Carl. Plug in (well, assemble, then plug in) and go. Pretty much. I did install a replacement front cover so the on/off was at the front along with the USB socket but as I send the designs via the network from my PC that bit is a bit redundant now.
Is the white round box just to put a bit of wire? That's called a service loop or drip loop. It doesn't need a whole separate thing. At the wire termination, *in the relay box *, add 2" to required length, attach terminals, make a loop with the wire and screw down terminals. (Your assembly and wiring are typically excellent.)
It _is_ just to put in a bit of (extra) wire but let me explain. BTW thanks for your kind words about my wiring and assembly 🙏
It's not a drip loop (this module is for _inside_ my workshop) but the cable is a single, continuous length from the pond controller module, all the way down the garden to the pond sockets (inside a waterproof box).
Thus, if I were to ever need "more" cable (because of changes or because I accidentally nicked the cable whilst stripping it, or fitting the ferrules), I would be well and truly up the creek without a paddle.
So this device just allows me to "hide" about 30cm of extra cable inside it for such an event. It's fitted now (I'll probably show it in a future video) but there are some changes I could have made, knowing what I now know (always the way).
Thanks Ralph, love the pond controller board and enclosure. You have been gently pushing me towards esp 32. I actually have two esp 32 cams integrated into my home automation system. Have written the web site to be served by the esp 32, but not yet have the nerve to replace the Mega with esp 32. A 3d printer is a big leap for me, but as Brits say, I am just a "plunker"?
You are not a "plonker" (th-cam.com/video/ahcuPHVz6aM/w-d-xo.html ) at all, it's quite a leap to replace one design by another. That's why I always prototype my designs before committing - that way, you _know_ it's going to work when done. Of course, a Mega has a gazillion GPIOs, the ESP32 is more limited and you have to be careful which ones you use for what purpose (eg boot time, code loading etc).
Before you commit to a 3D printer, ensure you can use a CAD program, such as FreeCAD, TinkerCAD or (big breath) Fusion 360! (Others are out there).
Welcome to the club. 😁
edit: Try light grey(the lightest grey), I like that more than white, the white is too white and makes it look cheap or so.
I thought the polar white I got could be painted more easily than other colours but I guess light grey (or even "off white") would work too?
Nice one Ralph. I’ve consumed a lot of the videos of mangojelly. Very useful stuff. I must say. Your build becoming to look more and more like commercial products. Nice to see that all the hard work does leed to very nice executed projects.
Thanks you Gerard, nice of you to say. And, yes, MangoJelly is very useful, albeit he does speed through some of the operations! How does he know all this stuff, from all the workbenches? But very useful.
I was waiting on the "hhhheyyyyyy" at the end... maybe next time. Great video Ralph. I think I just might get a 3D printer since I seem to constantly be looking for just the right project container in a store.
Heeeyyy! Yes, I forgot. don't tell anyone else, for goodness' sake.
I've had a 3D printer for a couple of years now, here's a trick for tight bits - give it a waft with a heat gun. You can get a lovey snug fit that way from parts that were just too tight to go together. I tend to use blender or openscad for designing parts and Cura for slicing but I'm no expert - use what you're comfortable with
Interesting tip, I'm tempted to actually do some tests on this!
Thanks Ralph! I finally took the plunge and ordered a Prusa mini+ Can you share which metal hole inserts you used in the video?
The ones I bought were from Amazon (quick delivery but pricey at £9.49 for 120 pieces) and were M3 x 4mm x 5mm: amzn.to/41ubLSP but there are many sizes (and prices), the cheapest being AliExpress (with the wait).
You can get longer ones, shorter ones, fatter ones... the list goes on. As you saw, this was the very first time I used one and it worked so well I will probably use them for lid screws and the like in future.
@@RalphBacon thanks Ralph, I also saw multiple outside diameters for M3, which is why I asked
How are you going to waterproof the sensor? mains and damp air cause problems after awhile.
You have to remember that the air pressure in the box will go up and down as the temperature changes.
so can quite easily suck in any water collecting around the sensor.
This control module will live _inside_ my workshop (on the wall). No dampness😮here. The "other end" is just main electrics inside a "waterproof" IP54 box designed for the job. More details when I have finished implementing.
@@RalphBacon it just looked like a nice waterproof box, with the seal on the edge. So i thought that you had gone to that expense, then thought it was strange you cut a hole in it. I sit corrected. 🙂
It's supposed to be waterproof, but it's damaged. I'm only using it because it has a transparent lid!
Squeak !!
Hi Ralph Great tutorial. Am thinking of getting a printer. may I ask what you bought ?
I bought a Prusa Mini+ because of several reasons (which I will elaborate on in my next 3D printer video). So:
1) Reasonably cost effective. Not cheap but I wanted turnkey in operation.
2) Delivered partially assembled. Took about a hour to connect the three bits together.
3) Well supported by Prusa in terms of support, parts, guarantee and software updates. Although having to send it back to Czechoslovakia would not be much fun nor cheap.
4) Compact. Fits next to my monitors (you might have seen this in this video). I have no requirement for large prints so this one (180mm x 180mm x 180mm max) suits me just fine (for now🤷♂️ anyway).
However, before you decide on the actual printer, you need to at least get to grips with a CAD program of your choice. I use FreeCAD (a bit of a learning curve but MangoJelly has dozens of videos explaining all features), but TinkerCAD is easier (kids use it). If you're really going for it, the very complex but superbly capable Fusion 360 is still free for hobbyists.
Until you understand CAD, don't even think about a printer. Downloading designs by others from the Internet might suit some but not me. I want to make stuff for me (or amend others' designs). 'Nuff said (for now). 👍
Like the channel. I personally use pla for test prints but ABS for final, especially if it going outside. Also don't accidentally leave a PLA in the car, it can get a little droopy😣
C - if you don’t mind ….. what printer are you using and would recommend for printing ABS? 👍😎👍
Echoing Joel L here - how do you successfully print ABS, I've been warned it's "quite difficult"!
@@RalphBaconsearch for "nero3d print abs". He has a newbie guide you might find useful
I use an old ender clone. Best way is trial and error until you find something that works on your printer. The biggest thing that helped me is a cheap home made enclosure. I used 1 inch insulating foam from my local building supply. A heated bead is important. I even set up a cheap heat gun and a thermal controller, but I don't know it that was necessary.
@@user-fr3hy9uh6y Thank you. Yes, all my ABS printing has been successful ever since I added an enclosure for my very basic ender clone printer over a year ago.
best 3d printer is a 100 guid ebay one, it will teach you so much from its constant breakdowns.....
Quite so, Lez. That's why I got a Prusa so my time was spent in designing stuff, not getting the printer working!
@@RalphBacon you 'can' design while waiting for china parts.... took weeks to get mine right lol, but with the repairs also being upgrades its just run and run the last 4+ years. i need tu build a better larger one, at least 500x500x500 with an engaving head for pcbs and facias
Can you tell us more about the different things you've printed with it?
In a follow up video I most certainly will.
Why did you make the "tower" for the PIR sensor with "holes"?
- Looks cool, no question
- If you want to save material: OK
- If you want to save printing time:Probably not
Background: For the small elements the printer needs longer (load filament, unload, move to new position, etc.)
If printed without "holes", the printer is in flow. --> probably faster
Greeting
Frank
I printed the prototype _without_ holes.
But then I wanted to practice the polar pattern. Actually I wanted to do a spiral pattern but I did not have the skills (yet) so opted for this. I wasn't too worried about print speed, it just chugs along whilst I make videos!
Whew! It was just a threaded insert rolling around, and not an invasion of little people.
But so easily could have been, Kent. Little brass people.
I wondered how long it would be before you were tempted by 3D printing.
My biggest problem with projects was finding the right object to put it in, now I have no excuse.
Oh, I've been tempted for years, but that's as far as it got! Now, it's great!
I bought a 3d printer. Main thing ive used it for is project enclosures.
I thought I would do that too, but it turns out I've made lots of stuff _except_ enclosures (so far!).
I told you like 3 years ago that if you bought a 3d printer you'd love it hahaha
Yes, you did, Joey, but you might as well have been talking about Advanced String Theory, because at the time it was all too much! But now... well, I should have listened to you!
@@RalphBacon it pays for itself in a few months because project box prices are obscene. I don't print anymore. I usually use wood or acrylic.
Had one for a few years. Couldn’t get the first layer to stick to the bed. A giant paper weight collecting dust.
You could try 3D bed glue. It's like Prit Stick (white glue stick) but designed for 3D prints (and costs about 10x as much but you only need a _tiny_ amount). Worked for me. Well, that and cleaning the bed scrupulously with IPA (alcohol not beer) each time.
@@RalphBacon
I clean the bed on the Bambu after each print. It's magnetic and I rinse it under warm water until all the glue has been dissolved. Yes, the glue from the stick... Re-applied shortly before the next print.
Use a 4mil feeler gauge to set it so you can feel it make contact. That first layer needs to be squished onto the bed. Also use a brim. I've had a 3d printer for 4 months now so I ran into the same problem.
rather than making the lid a lot thicker maybe you should just think about a few ribs on the lid to add some strength 🙂
Someone else just said this, and you are, of course, both correct. I will try and remember!
i am thinking about buying a 3D printer but i have the same worries about learning to use a new program (CAD). Fusion 360 might not be the right tool for every one. There quite a few programs out there with different layout and interface. you just need to find the right one.
If you are prepared to do the groundwork (and homework) and follow both those channels I mentioned, in order, then they would allow you to get a really good understanding of FreeCAD, which being Open Source, won't suddenly lock you out of your account one day!
But these things take time. My goal was to just learn one new thing about FreeCAD per day. Sometimes it's more but always one thing, even if it seems inconsequential. And to actually practice using it, not necessarily printing anything at all (yet).
thanks much !
You're most welcome!
Can you print on that 0.6 mm lid, add another layer ?
No, I don't think it's possible although I'm sure someone has already done it! As others have said, though, I should have added bracing struts or ribs to give it rigidity rather than just making it thicker.
@@RalphBacon ok, a smaller circle could be glued inside, superglue is also a tool.
Nice chat
Thanks, Mark, I'm happy it wasn't too unstructured!
Great video Ralph. I love my printer but I tend to just download files from Thingiverse so far. I really would like to design stuff to order as you have.
I'm sure you could do it if you put your mind to it, Tony. Go for it!
Yes ….. everyone should have at least one 3D printer 👍😜👍
"At least" you say? So more than one, possibly. Someone here in the comments has 11 printers, a veritable print farm!
@@RalphBacon I'd also suggest a resin printer. Don't fancy the mess and post printing cleaning? Well most video on resin printing, is by people printing mega detailed miniature figures. Fact is I use mine for very much what you are doing with cases for projects. For this I can simply dry the print off with paper towel, give it a blast under UV and it's done. For shallow objects like small cases, then it's fast, accurate and has a great smooth finish. I can friction fit most lids without any tolerance. I have both FDM and Resin and find myself turning to the resin printer more and more.
I have had a 3D printer for a good few years now and it is very handy for printing things, but I use Cura Ultimate as the Slicer and for a simple box 5" x 2" x 2" the print can take 3-4 hours ++ even when printing at 200-300 times in speed that is the draw back for me ( I lack patience it would seem) but they are very good but understand the limitations of using it. My printer unlike yours is a Ender 3 V2🤓🤠
So many printers on the market, right? But Creality and Prusa seem to be doing well, and if you have the money the new Bamboo (Bambu?) is apparently really quick too.
Yup, got the same lack of patience. However the Ender3 is quiet and I just print while watching Ralph's videos.
That slim bottom part would not easily crack. You mentioned it being 0.6mm, so probably 3 layers high and those solid layers are printed with 90 degrees direction change between them, which gives a nice strong set, even if flexible. Parts printed vertically (so walls or that peg in the middle holding the bolt) will be your weak point as those are relying on layers adhering well together and for PLA the plastic binds much stronger within one layer than accross layers.
And you find FreeCAD easier than Fusion360? What? I've tried using FreeCAD 5 times to get away from the risk of Autodesk stopping the free use, but I always hit major walls. Only allowing a single surface in a sketch for extrusions, not being able to use a single sketch for multiple things (how do you then design correct constraints between different parts?), having multiple workbenches with similar functionality but not really working together ... Nah, gimme Fusion 360 or OnShape any day ...
But I'm pretty sure it would deform if the mains cable were to press against it (6-core mains cable can be quite stubborn) so I'm happier with my thicker lid, although as others have suggested I could have reinforced it with struts rather than increase the thickness.
Cool!!!!!
Thanks, Andy!
Another free CAD program worth looking at is DesignSpark Mechanical from RS Components. This is the easiest 3D CAD program I've used to date. You Tuber Jim Taylor has some great videos on how to use it.
Thanks for the heads-up, as I've not heard of that one. I shall, of course, try it out as I'm a bona fide member/customer of RS Components.
The 3D printer is the best tool I have ever purchased. Printing ABS requires elevated temperatures and control of drafts, so an enclosed printer or an enclosure built around the printer. ABS shrinks more than most plastics when it cools so warping and sizing is more problematic. PETG is a good choice for many purposes, shrinks less and is easier to print. Vorons are well known for printing ABS and are made with parts printed from ABS. The printer shown here is a Prusa Mini. The printed parts on a Prusa Mini are mostly made with PETG. The cooling air shroud right next to the hotend may be printed with ABS for its higher temperature capability. Temperature wise PETG can handle 70C and ABS 90C whereas PLA is around 50C before they get soft. So PETG is good for most things and ABS is even better. PLA is pretty easy to damage with hot sun but is fine for most indoor uses. Happy Printing!
On that basis, I'm going to stick with PLA and PETG (especially on the first layer, see what I did there😁) before trying more advanced (and tricky) plastics!
I found freecad to be a real nightmare to use sometimes, especially changing the dimentions after it has been designed, it just breaks everything requiring to basically rip it up and start again regardless of how careful it was designed. It also doesnt do what you expect it to do, often needing you do a real round about way to achive something that should be simple.
I have moved away from freecad and just paid for a maker subscription with solidworks and it is a real dream to use compared to freecad, dont think i would ever go back.
You get what you pay for i suppose.
Not everyone likes it but I've had great luck with OpenSCAD. Free and very easy to parameterize. Happy Printing!
Horses for courses. If you see what JellyMango can do with FreeCAD you would probably change your mind, but each to their own. Certainly, I've found that making amendments way back in the project structure can really screw things up, but I've learned not to do that now!
Sorry sorry sorry
I am late to hire😅😅😅😅😅
OMG what happened to you, Yogesh?!? This is the first time you are ever late to my video!
@@RalphBacon no network no Internet 😀😀😀
Show its application, it's a video after all.
Application, as in the project I'm making? All in good time, but I did show the main control box. Maybe you mean something else?
Another good Freecad channel is @Adventuresincreation he does some great videos.
But once you have the 3D printer and can make things with addition of material, then you feel the need to get a laser cutter to remove material.
Now i need a bigger toy room.
I wish I had a CNC / Laser cutter. I've seen videos on what they can do and it's incredible. But don't tell my wife.
@@RalphBacon I tried to smuggle a K40 past my wife but I think she noticed. 🙂
I tried to smuggle my entire workshop past my wife, but I think she's suspicious now that the garden is suddenly smaller. 😮😁
@@RalphBacon My wife would love if i made the garden smaller, but it would have to be via a garden room/ studio for her 🙂
You will probably get a lot of people telling you, you should use one program over another, whether it's for design or slicing.
The best one is the one you you can get to grips with, and works for you. That said
I found onshape very powerful. In the free version all your designs are free for all to copy and try, and it runs in your browser and you do need to sign up. Despite that it's still worth a look.
If you do want to take a look don't jump in on your own try.
youtube.com/@TeachingTech
Both for 3d printing tips and also onshape tutorials. Hope you have fun with 3D printing.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll watch the video first before doing anything!
@@RalphBacon If I understand correctly OnShape has told utube creators that they must use a paid license since utube is a commercial situation. Several high level utube creators dropped it when this happened. Teaching Tech is more recently pushing it so perhaps something changed again, but personally I don't care for companies who mess with licensing and change the rules midstream. FreeCAD and OpenSCAD are a bit more trouble to learn but they avoid a lot of future pain like changing licenses.
@@alanb76 Good to know!