ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ส.ค. 2023
- An almost 3D collection of items for ESP32 and Arduino Projects
► PCBWay $5 for 10 pieces www.pcbway.com
Much more information in my GitHub for this video:
github.com/RalphBacon/270-ESP...
Lightweight PLA Filament
OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm,AIR PLA,Filament PLA 0.8kg Spool, Dimensional Accuracy +/-0.03mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Many Colours)
amzn.to/3DPJa0g
Hot Melt Brass Inserts
An improved set of Hot Melt Brass Inserts for screwing your Arduino case together more neatly using this tool.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dnl...
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Deq...
JTAG settings for ESP32 WROOM / WROVER modules
Last, but certainly not least, I've include the extra lines you need for your platformio.ini file to enable JTAG debugging of your ESP32.
Example file (complete) in the GitHub for this video:
github.com/RalphBacon/270-ESP...
Put ONE of these (depending on your board, obvs) in the file.
```
board_debug.openocd_board = esp32-wroom-kit-3.3v.cfg
board_debug.openocd_board = esp-wroom-32.cfg
board_debug.openocd_board = esp32-wrover.cfg
```
I've now been able to use JTAG debugging on *ALL* my boards without issue. Fun times!
MORE LINKS
► List of all my videos
(Special thanks to Michael Kurt Vogel for compiling this)
bit.ly/TH-camVideoList-RalphB...
► Want to get an introductory discount from PCBWay? Follow this link:
pcbway.com/g/SaH9tF
► If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please consider doing so and joining me on my Arduinite (and other μControllers) journey
My channel, GitHub and blog are here:
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• / ralphbacon
• ralphbacon.blog
• github.com/RalphBacon
• buymeacoffee.com/ralphbacon
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My ABOUT page with email address: / ralphbacon - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I always add a chamfer or countersink to holes that I am going to use an insert in. Not only does it reduce the effects of the displaced melted plastic it acts a s a guide to help locate the insert when inserting.
I read your comment a couple of hours ago over lunch and thought I'd try it out this afternoon, which I did.
Excellent suggestion! 🥳🎉🎊
And obvious when you think about it, that the "excess" plastic will find room in the chamfer area rather than being forced out of the hole. And helps centralise the insert, just as you said it would.
@@RalphBacon It's not a perfect solution but does help. If you are designing parts yourself altering the chamfer angle to something over 45 degrees making it go deeper into the hole has some benefits. It is worth a try anyway. Love the channel and expansion of 3D printing as it goes so well with electronics projects, probably paid for my printer in the savings made in not buying project boxes.
Heyyyyyyy I gave a thumbs up. No matter the subject, Ralph is always entertaining.
Nice of you to say so!
Be sure to remove the battery from the caliper when putting it into storage. They (at least mine) have a tendency to drain the battery when not used. Hmm, maybe a short video ?
I discovered this recently (I have the same caliper from the same shop Ralph has). There are various tutorials on how to add a switch that will properly cut the power so I might do that. When I researched the issue, people have been talking about for about 20 years so apparently the manufacturers just don't care.
I can't say I've had this problem. Same callipers, from what I remember the same battery and I've used them for years. Perhaps the design has improved? Mine does have an auto off feature (like multimeters) so maybe they've adopted the same technology.
You may find that if you print the "Lightweight PLA" hotter, it will get even lighter. The way I understand it is that there's some sort of foaming agent in the PLA that causes it to foam when heated over a specific temperature; the hotter it gets the more it foams (up to a point anyway). Not sure what the foaming agent is by the way, so it may be worth checking into that before you put it in your koi pond. :)
I thought it might foam at the nozzle but, alas, no. It is effectively "pre-foamed" so it contains (somehow) more air to filament, I guess. Still, it's nice and strong and floats well too.
Thanks Ralph nice insert kit. Your PCB Way ad is nice because it’s not so damb loud compared to everything else. THANKS
Cool, thanks!
The info on ESP32 debugging could not have come at a more opportune moment. I'm about to start rewriting my comms library. That snippet might just come in handy. Thanks ever so much for sharing that little gem. 😁
Glad I could help!
Hi Ralph, An iron specially for the brass inserts? I've used many, many inserts, just pushed in with an ordinary iron, I wouldn't dream of a having a separate iron. Also, just to be clear, Don't drill a hole then put an insert in. If you print a hole it will have surrounds of solid filament surrounding the hole that the insert can melt into. If you drill a hole you are simply cutting into the infill which is much weaker and the insert won't bind properly. That's why it was too easy to insert too far.
Your info about the circuits, IDE and programming is much more useful than your 3D printing advice (meant as constructive feedback, trying to be helpful). There's loads of 3D printing channels from people with years and years of experience and with all kinds of different printers, filaments etc.
I wouldn't normally consider one either but as I had already got a couple of purpose tips (that greatly assist centering the insert) the idea of many sized tips and a soldering iron too was just an experiment (and meant I didn't need to use my soldering iron).
Constructive criticism is good, and I'm not surprised you said it. The problem I find is that the guys with lots of experience in 3D printers no longer tell us noobs the really useful things that they learned years and years ago - they have forgotten they never knew it! Anyway, it's just stuff I thought some of my viewers might find useful. 👍
The flange covering the ooze is a side effect of its main purpose which is reduced pull out, with a cylinder style insert the tighter you tighten the screw the more chance of ripping it out, if you insert the flange variety just to the level that the flang is smooth to the print, then when you overtighten it theres less chance of pull out because the flang wont be able to go 'up' as it will be hitting the other part your attaching. its a really good mechanical advantage
Indeed. I don't know whether this is the _main_ purpose (although it sounds more likely than stopping the excess plastic oozing out) and I used them this afternoon.
I inserted the insert from the back, so the screw was pulling it tight to the body, with the flange flush on the underside. Seems unlikely that will pull out any time soon!
Great video
Interesting subject as always 👍.
Thanks for sharing your experience with All of us 👍😃
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for sharing the new style brass inserts!
You are so welcome!
Very Intresting, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice mix of topics today Ralph 👍. That lightweight PLA could be useful for building bits for quadcopters, where every gram counts.
The Colorfabb lightweight PLA is the go to for 3d printed aircraft. It foams and expands ass it leaves the nozzle, the degree of foaming is controlled by the extrusion temperature. It takes a bit of dialling in of extrusion rate to get dimensional accuracy but at the upper end of the temperature range you can print parts at around 30% of the weight of standard PLA.
This expanding foam type of filament I have seen (but not used). As you say, seems to require a bit of experimentation to get it right.
This filament I show is effectively pre-expanded and prints so smoothly. I really want to make something with it asap to see if it lives up to my expectations in the Real World!
Small world: the white calibration boxes I briefly showed (for another video) are ColorFabb PLA+ but are quite difficult to work with (warping, mostly). I am still finding the best way of using it. Any suggestions (other than "buy an enclosed 3D printer") gratefully received.
@@RalphBacon I've been very happy with it once I got past the muttering and swearing stage, once it's dialled in surface finish is very good at the lower to mid range extrusion temps, surface finish is a little poorer at the top/maximum expansion temperature but still quite acceptable. I bought a plane design from Eclipson following recommendations from a few people and have been very happy with it, easy to print and assemble with good instructions and as a novice pilot I can vouch for just how robust and crash proof lightweight PLA with a good design is. I've printed a few functional mechanical gadgets with the lightweight and it seems pretty much as strong as ordinary PLA+ just a lot lighter and although it's half again the price of PLA it's actually quite economic to use. I suspect it will become popular with cosplayers as it seems ideal for wearable props.
Welcome BACK(!) Mr. Bacon :)
You really are too kind, no really, stop it, stop it, oh alright .
Just got a 3D printer for my birthday. Already feeling like it is a game changer. Can now make a lot of the stuff I used to have to hack out of wood or aluminum and looked terrible. lol
I'm with you there, totally. What a 3D printer can do is amazing, even with some modest CAD 3D design skills. I would not have believed it could be so useful.
well done
I see you have a 3D printer too (Robo3D?). Yes, I have joined the 21st Century at last!
Hi Ralph,
Been a while but I have been thinking about your channel; somehow not getting notifications. Want to get back into Arduinos son.
Anyway will do some catching up, but wanted to wish you a very Happy New Year and thanks for all you do and all your hard work.
I've been pretty deep into the NanoVNA and building some baluns for a collinear array, and giving instruction to another ham club. Best to you and 73...
Yes, it's been a while since I posted a video, so much "other work" to complete. You sound busy too!
Hi Ralph, files are on their way. Watch video later. Cheers from down under
Got the files, thanks, nice to hear from you!
Have you seen the repurposing of an articulated microphone stand for inserting the inserts? Works really well, and basically eliminates the inserts being off-axis when pressed in.
No, I have not heard of this but now that you have mentioned it, I will Google. Sounds fascinating!
@@RalphBacon Sent you an email with a couple links.
thanks for the jtag update. Do you have a LOLIN S3, reason I ask is wanted to know if youve got it to work on platformIO with VSC and specifically with littleFS. I found it impossible.
I have ESP32 S3 processor boards (not necessarily Lolin) nad it seems to work just fine. What are the issues?
he also finds himself wondering what is under the blue towel
You're going me make me watch my own video, aren't you, to see what you are referring to.
What an anticlimax. 🫤 You can see exactly what is there at this point in the video: th-cam.com/video/VVEzabWJsU0/w-d-xo.html
BTW that's Scott Blue Roll from Costco which I use for the IPA cleaning ritual of my 3D print bed, works well.
@@RalphBacon sorry I shouldn't distract you from the important stuff. I'm glad the towel wasn't a workout shirt left to dry. The "future" part was more about the things you mention near the beginning that are upcoming.
❤❤❤
Yogesh, I can only assume you were asleep or that your internet connection was down again? But so very good to see you here!
@@RalphBacon internet not dwon uncle
Sorry to late I am on duty (job)
Has anyone found a watchdog type program that works with esp 32? I use arduino ide to program and have not found a library. I have resorted to defining a reset pin, set it high in Setup, count a certain number to millis and set it low. Not ideal , but works for esp32 with camera that was losing connection.
That's also the way I do it for a VS1053 MP3 decoder that needed resetting specifically after power up. Also controlled by an ESP32. But it only needed doing once at Startup, not during the main program run.
I dont think those scales have enough resolution for 'science'..
I like that the layer lines are less visible, for something like a figurine that would be a good advantage, and the weight redustion would be good for flying model parts printing, but for anything else the extra cost isnt going to be justifiable so i would be back on the cheap stuff at less than half the price for structural parts. But it is what it is, specialised materials cost more, its a reality i dont like lol.
Yes, it's definitely a specialised product (although did you notice the £3 discount on the actual price, making it about £24 a roll?). I normally pay about £20 a roll (1Kg) so this is not too much above that. And when you _need_ a lighter filament, I guess this is it.
Very interesting & informative as Always Ralph. Random question: As a relative newbie to microcontrollers, let's say I develop a project (using arduino) and want to produce it in a quantity, streamlining the board to only contain the electronic components needed for that task, stripping out unrequited elements of the arduino. ... (with PCBway making the resulting board). Are there any resources out there which might glean that knowledge ? Or should I aquire a masters in electronics before attempting such a feat 😢
OK, let's think about this.
Step 1. Acquire a Masters Degree in ele----- no, no just joking!
If you really are using the Arduino (UNO or Nano) it's simple. Anything other microcontroller will require more work and probably experience.
For the Arduino, look at my "barebones" Arduino videos (eg #117 and #119). Don't ignore my dire warning about decoupling capacitors right next to the chip (which doesn't need to be the DIL version, the quad flat-packed 32-pin is just as easy to use if PCBWay are going to build it for you).
I would recommend you build a barebones version on a breadboard first. That way you will learn loads (including how to upload a sketch without all the USB stuff done for you).
Any questions or explanations, just email me. Oh, if you're stealing, er... _commercialising_ one of my designs, I'll take 10% please! Oh alright, 15% if you insist.
@@RalphBacon haha 😄. Noooh, it's all my own mad hatter ideas 💡. But if it makes 'dragons den' you'll be first in line for consulting fees Ralph 😇. Thank you for taking the time to respond 🙏..
Hi ralph hope you're ok, I know you did a lot of experiments for low current applications using esp , have you ever looked into a bluetooth ble project ?
No, I have not, unfortunately. I've used BT but not BLE for my Smart Phone Charger (still in use, all day). That is not interested in low power as it is permanently powered during the day.
Can't you get the VAT back?
Well, if I were VAT registered (turnover in excess of something like £80K pa) I could. As it is, I'm, not even at 1/10th of that, so no rebate for me!
Liked😊as always, but no show for 2 months ? Hope all is OK. Regards✌🏻
All is well, thanks for your concern. Like Arnie, I'll be back soon. 👍
Greetings & thanks as always. Your videos never fail to inform. As a threaded insert user, the question is how do the gripping features of the flanged inserts compare to "old" inserts. From the video the flanged inserts looked quite shallow.
Good question!
The flanged inserts are quite shallow because those are the ones I bought (and used this afternoon in a project). But many longer ones are available so take a look at AliExpress or Amazon or wherever to see what there is. Links in the video description.
BTW as others have commented these flanged inserts will offer not only a cleaner insert but better pull-out resistance (if inserted from below) as the flange is now supporting the insert too. I tried this afternoon with a countersunk hole (well, strictly speaking a chamfered hole) and it worked beautifully.
I just noticed your mouse, Ralph.... are you a lefty too!?
While waiting, this other Ralph responds. Observe his watch on his left arm, typical of a right handed person. Myself, I trained myself to use the mouse left handed primarily to relieve strain on a sensitive right side of my back. Besides less stress, I discovered I could write while mousing! The heaviest part of keyboard operations is the arm, so less heavy movement equals faster output in addition to less stress. Lastly, all number input is done by the upper row of the keyboard and not by swinging that heavy arm to the number pad.
Now we wait for the Bacon response.
Well, as RalphL has replied I thought I ought to too. @RalphWLundvall good theory and partly correct inasmuch that it frees up the right hand.
Short answer to am I a leftie: No.
Longer answer: From 1st Jan 2023 I decided to train myself to use a left-handed mouse so that I can then use the keypad on a standard keyboard on the right (I find the mouse is then just too far away from me, what with my dodgy shoulder. Too much of a stretch.)
So here we are, August 2023 and I have never, not once, been tempted down the Dark Side of using my right hand for the mouse. One slip and I would be back on the wagon for sure.
Anyway, I am almost competent with my left hand now (using a proper left-handed mouse) and can do my accounts using my freed-up right hand using the keypad. And write too! But 8 months left-hand vs 30 years of right hand... well, you do the maths!
Given the timescale, I had to learn how to use FreeCAD for my 3D printer using my left hand too; a double whammy as far as I was concerned. I could have cried at my total incompetence (at both subjects) but the mouse control was awful. It's fine for the most part now, and I don't really think about using my right hand at all for any 🐭 mouse-related activities.
I am a lefty and have always worn watch on left side.
Is RSB MIA?
Still here, Vic, but involved with other work. However, some ESP32 projects are in progress too, albeit at a snails place. Back soon (ish). 👍
Hi ralph are you all right? Long time no new vids sorry to be impatient
All good! Yes, I've been involved in some other work which meant I could not continue my videos here. However, I do have plans for new ones, very soon!
That's good to hear. I was also starting to get worried
@@RalphBacon So glad to hear its not been due to health etc.
I wonder if the 'light' PLA is just a mechanical stretch version of some standard PLA. I assume this changes the internal molecular structure and makes it lighter per unit length. The mechanical properties degraded, as you demonstrated when bending the wire. Cheers.
I don't think it's that, cap'n. The filament feels slightly rough, like a sponge, so I reckon it has air added to make it more foamy. And lighter, of course. Beautiful finish.
I have started printing a lot of my cases and parts wit my resin printer. For lovely smooth parts, and the amount of infill right up to a solid part doesn't take any longer, due to the fact that each layer is projected in one go. The down side is the print area and it's the amount of layers that takes the time. Each layer typically only 0.05mm. but only about 11 seconds per layer. Also resin prints don't the the brass inserts.
I'm wondering if you have or considered a 3D resin printer. If you watch any videos on how to finish the prints, with all the cleaning with IPA and stuff. then I'm not surprised people are put off. And yes If you want the best detail then that's the way to go. However most of my parts like housings I just dry off with kitchen paper and cured in daylight, or a cheep UV lamp. The details and dimensional accuracy are worth the extra mess.
I'm sure resin printers have their place (although at this time in someone else's place) as I'm finding my way with the filament printer still. It is the perceived "mess" that puts me off a resin printer - probably better for more serious work, I suspect?
I couldn't believe how a resin printer actually works. Pretty wild.
@@TheUnofficialMaker even more strange is the way the part sticks upside down to the build plate. It's like how a wet glass can sometimes lift up a coster. Suction, surface tension, or just magic, I'm not sure!