Method #3 Take a 1/2 bolt and nut Place the bolt in the hole for caliper bracket Put the nut on the bolt between the rotor and bracket Hold the nut with a wrench and crank the crap out of the bolt, rotor will dislodge
Method number 2 is slightly incorrect. You shouldn't teach people that because if they're trying to reuse that rotor, it now potentially will have a warp. And whenever you drive, it's gonna cause some vibration. Instead, you should be tapping in the center area and knocking all the corrosion and rust free.
I have used both methods. I have had to remove rotors so rusted that the threads used to help removed the rotors were gone. That said, these days most of what I work on isn't allowed to rust up this badly.
Half the time I need to drill out the screws so one is out. So deadblow with a little heat if needed. Plus if you planned on using it again a deadblow doesn't harm it. When putting it back together plenty of anti seize so it doesn't rust together.
Depends if it’s rear rotors with e-brake shoes inside the hat, and also depends on if I’m replacing them or resurfacing. I’ve had to literally cut them off many times. If possible though method 1
I usually do number 2 because it’s just simple. Number 1 usually involves two 3/8 bolts at least an inch long to be turned, however only one is mandatory, and if you want to save the bolt for the next one, it’s a bit of time wasted
2 95% of the time, but a mix of both if the rotor is REALLY stuck on the hub. Bolts to keep force on the rotor, and hammer to shock it free. Only had it fail one time on a G3500 rear drum that I had to actually cut in half to remove, the air hammer the rest of the drum off the hub in pieces since it was rusted together so thoroughly. Anti-seize your hub faces, people.
Whatever method I need to. If it's to resurface I'm careful. If it's to replace a rotor I bring out my 56 ounce Snap-On deadblow which I've nicknamed my axe. Nothing survives after a few swings at full strength.
Method 2 due to most vehicles not having the option to use bolts, unless some foreign car like Honda, Toyota, etc. If reusing said rotor, I hit the center of the rotor around the studs instead of the outer brake ring. Rather replace studs than a rotor for cost efficiency.
Method 1 whenever possible. If not possible i use my round hammer bit in my air hammer and go between two studs and vibrate the shit out of it while gently prying against the back of the rotor. Works like a charm 90 percent of the time. The other 10 percent i go with option 2 and replace the rotor. 😂
This is the exact reason for the threaded holes. Little lube, some turn turn on the ratchet. Pop goes the rotor. However I've broken bolts trying to press it off hub even with lube due to crazy corrosion n lack of maintenance. IF ALL ELSE FAILS,WACK IT WITH A HAMMER. EVEN ELECTRONICS LMAO 🤣
Usually method 2- since some shop mechanic has already stripped out number 1. :)
Damn😭
replacing it, method 2. putting it back later, method 1.
Yesss
Method #3
Take a 1/2 bolt and nut
Place the bolt in the hole for caliper bracket
Put the nut on the bolt between the rotor and bracket
Hold the nut with a wrench and crank the crap out of the bolt, rotor will dislodge
Imma try this
Method 3 oxygen torch because I now have one and it's an excuse to play with it. Big hammer too.
I would do that too😂
Method number 2 is slightly incorrect. You shouldn't teach people that because if they're trying to reuse that rotor, it now potentially will have a warp. And whenever you drive, it's gonna cause some vibration. Instead, you should be tapping in the center area and knocking all the corrosion and rust free.
Honestly, if the rotor has to come off for a brake job, then it probably needs replacing anyway since milling is off the table these days.
If your replacing the rotor for a break job then you can hit it all you want
I have used both methods. I have had to remove rotors so rusted that the threads used to help removed the rotors were gone. That said, these days most of what I work on isn't allowed to rust up this badly.
Oh wow thats good at least then
If method 1 don't work then method 2 & if that don't work torch it
And if method 3 don't work.. C4 works wonders
@george1966fjb I prefer insin but c4 is fun too
Lmao love c4
Two because my drums don’t have anything like number one
Dam😭
Half the time I need to drill out the screws so one is out. So deadblow with a little heat if needed. Plus if you planned on using it again a deadblow doesn't harm it. When putting it back together plenty of anti seize so it doesn't rust together.
Makes sense
Meanwhile, if you retract the tensioner far enough, you need neither.
Depends if it’s rear rotors with e-brake shoes inside the hat, and also depends on if I’m replacing them or resurfacing. I’ve had to literally cut them off many times. If possible though method 1
Dam!!!
I usually do number 2 because it’s just simple.
Number 1 usually involves two 3/8 bolts at least an inch long to be turned, however only one is mandatory, and if you want to save the bolt for the next one, it’s a bit of time wasted
Air hammer
Go for it🙌
Get back and let the hammer smack. One good pop.is usually all they need unless the parking brake failed and rotor has a rust ridge inside.
True that
Method - 1 crake break drum
Naww
I never hit the rotor on the flat surface like that but I do hit the rotor on the edge of it's being a little *****
Sheesh lol
2 95% of the time, but a mix of both if the rotor is REALLY stuck on the hub. Bolts to keep force on the rotor, and hammer to shock it free. Only had it fail one time on a G3500 rear drum that I had to actually cut in half to remove, the air hammer the rest of the drum off the hub in pieces since it was rusted together so thoroughly. Anti-seize your hub faces, people.
Sheesh man 😭
Air hammer with hammer bit, removes 99% of stuck rotors and that’s here in the rust belt.
Hell yeah
depends on if you are replacing the rotor or getting to something behind it mane
but hammer is my go to lmao
Same😂
Whatever method I need to. If it's to resurface I'm careful. If it's to replace a rotor I bring out my 56 ounce Snap-On deadblow which I've nicknamed my axe. Nothing survives after a few swings at full strength.
Hell yeah
New rotors 2, method 1 for checking and adjusting
Facts
Both, depending on the vehicle
Yesss
Well I just pull them right off one hand usually. Or I have an issue of them falling off as soon as I remove calipers.
Lucky
Method 2 due to most vehicles not having the option to use bolts, unless some foreign car like Honda, Toyota, etc. If reusing said rotor, I hit the center of the rotor around the studs instead of the outer brake ring. Rather replace studs than a rotor for cost efficiency.
Hammer
Depends on how pissed the vehicle has made me
Same😂😂
#1 for sure, if there is a tapped hole for it.
Yes
Tap in between the lugs and from the side of the hat if it didn't come loose. Air hammer optional...
Never had luck with that
2...I usually tap around the edges first though
Nice
1 if not stripped 2 if it is if 2 dont work a 12 pack and a 44 mag
Lmaoo😂
Hammer ❤
Yes
Definitely 2. Somebody's already fucked up number 1
It happens
Straight to 2
Haha feel ya
I tap around the hub. Then graduate to outer ring if I have to
🙌💯
All depends on the rotors
True
Both depends on how stupid they built it
Honestly lol
Method 1 whenever possible. If not possible i use my round hammer bit in my air hammer and go between two studs and vibrate the shit out of it while gently prying against the back of the rotor. Works like a charm 90 percent of the time. The other 10 percent i go with option 2 and replace the rotor. 😂
Both!
Hell yeah
Welcome to my world it would acked like it was welded on 😂
Method # 3 Air Hammer
Lmao yes
2 is faster and more fun
True
2 not messing around
Facts
BFH
Yessss
Which ever one works
True
2
🙌💯
This is the exact reason for the threaded holes. Little lube, some turn turn on the ratchet. Pop goes the rotor. However I've broken bolts trying to press it off hub even with lube due to crazy corrosion n lack of maintenance. IF ALL ELSE FAILS,WACK IT WITH A HAMMER. EVEN ELECTRONICS LMAO 🤣
2
Nice