Well I had a broken Renogy 40 AMP, googled the problem, found this video and went thru the repair and to no one's surprise, it works! Thanks for the video, I believe many others are going to have this problem as the circuit burn out occurs without popping the fuse.
Glad you could repair it. You didn't have to drill holes in that display board - and you might have been drilling through copper tracks on the underside of the circuit board! To remove the display board to get at the main board underneath, you just squeeze the tops of the little white nylon posts that hold the small board above the main board. Your seems to have two types of nylon post - three "squeeze to release" posts (look at the top of the posts, they have a centre and two sides, just squeeze the sides in to the centre with fine pliers, and lift the board up off the post) and one nylon screw, just use a screwdriver to undo the screw. The solder repair - it would be better to carefully clean off the damaged track, then solder it with flux-cored solder, no need to use solder flux paste. (That's more for plumbing.) Sometimes I repair a broken track by soldering a length of suitable wire across the break - just solder it to each side of the break. It depends if you had room for a wire inside the casing. Still, well done for repairing it.
What a crazy fix my man. Congrats; you clearly have DIY energy. Consider attaching nickel strip across that gap for higher current rating than a blob of solder. If it works, it works though. Good video.
I just worked on a RENOGY ROVER BOOST. It is a 10A controller with a 30A fuse. They use a little surface mount hall effect current sensor. Whatever the customer did, it blew the leads off the current sensor. The current sensor is still fine, it just doesn't have any leads. There are numerous design issues with this unit. Renogy puts cosmetics over design.
My Rover (40 amp, same model) used to charge my bank to 14.4, then they'd rest to 13.4, and super hot, last a long time. Now, two years later, the charger is now stopping at 13.0. It won't charger higher the batteries any higher. I have tried with multiple batteries/banks/configurations. Ideas, please?
It's too bad companies don't provide schematics anymore. Everything is considered disposable. My guess is one or more of the mosfets inside have failed. It could also be failed caps. I would open it up and look for burned spots or leaky/bulging capacitors.
@@chronobot2001 Thanks. And you're right. But it turned out to be the panels. I bought a cheaper 60amp controller (PwrMr and it is GREAT), and it does the same thing.
Good this happen because the controller Don have a cooling fans 60ampp mpp Don't have fans. I buy a usb computer fan put on top of the controller keep the temperature at 70 to 80 f. But if i don't put fan. The controller get fuckin hot 180 to 190 f
I bought renogy, first the controller went bad then the dc to dc charger went bad. Just tightening the terminals was indication of poor quality. Lesson learned I’m done with them.
Drilling the PCB had me rolling on the floor, Stand offs are removeable.
That said my jaw dropped when you got it going! Good job.
Well I had a broken Renogy 40 AMP, googled the problem, found this video and went thru the repair and to no one's surprise, it works! Thanks for the video, I believe many others are going to have this problem as the circuit burn out occurs without popping the fuse.
Glad you could repair it.
You didn't have to drill holes in that display board - and you might have been drilling through copper tracks on the underside of the circuit board! To remove the display board to get at the main board underneath, you just squeeze the tops of the little white nylon posts that hold the small board above the main board. Your seems to have two types of nylon post - three "squeeze to release" posts (look at the top of the posts, they have a centre and two sides, just squeeze the sides in to the centre with fine pliers, and lift the board up off the post) and one nylon screw, just use a screwdriver to undo the screw.
The solder repair - it would be better to carefully clean off the damaged track, then solder it with flux-cored solder, no need to use solder flux paste. (That's more for plumbing.)
Sometimes I repair a broken track by soldering a length of suitable wire across the break - just solder it to each side of the break. It depends if you had room for a wire inside the casing.
Still, well done for repairing it.
I am currently trying to do the same repair, but there's a bunch of metal tines on the right side that I'm pretty sure are soldered? Help please lol
What a crazy fix my man. Congrats; you clearly have DIY energy. Consider attaching nickel strip across that gap for higher current rating than a blob of solder. If it works, it works though. Good video.
Alex- Thanks for posting. I appreciate seeing the inside of these products. I know enough about electrical to be afraid of capacitors., so not enough
I just worked on a RENOGY ROVER BOOST. It is a 10A controller with a 30A fuse. They use a little surface mount hall effect current sensor. Whatever the customer did, it blew the leads off the current sensor. The current sensor is still fine, it just doesn't have any leads. There are numerous design issues with this unit. Renogy puts cosmetics over design.
My big question is... Did another faulty component cause the trace to burn?
My Rover (40 amp, same model) used to charge my bank to 14.4, then they'd rest to 13.4, and super hot, last a long time. Now, two years later, the charger is now stopping at 13.0. It won't charger higher the batteries any higher. I have tried with multiple batteries/banks/configurations. Ideas, please?
It's too bad companies don't provide schematics anymore.
Everything is considered disposable.
My guess is one or more of the mosfets inside have failed.
It could also be failed caps.
I would open it up and look for burned spots or leaky/bulging capacitors.
@@chronobot2001 Thanks. And you're right. But it turned out to be the panels. I bought a cheaper 60amp controller (PwrMr and it is GREAT), and it does the same thing.
Is anyone else wondering why its a 40a controller but it has 30a fuses? And 10awg cable which only handles 30a max
Self adhesive foil tape
My Rover is giving me the e1 error no matter what i do. Did you get the same error?
Mine didn't throw any codes just stopped charging
SRNE ML2440
Good this happen because the controller Don have a cooling fans 60ampp mpp Don't have fans. I buy a usb computer fan put on top of the controller keep the temperature at 70 to 80 f. But if i don't put fan. The controller get fuckin hot 180 to 190 f
Thanks for the idea! I will Try this for a future video.
I bought renogy, first the controller went bad then the dc to dc charger went bad. Just tightening the terminals was indication of poor quality. Lesson learned I’m done with them.
😂😂😂😂😂