*Super compact and easy to carry and travel with accessories for the electric **Generater.Systems** .I was worried this was going to be bulky or hard to use.Hooks up easy and charges quickly*
God Bless You! I could not for the life of me, even after a dozen conversations with tech support, figure out why my batteries would not charge over 12.8 volts. My overcharged parameters were set too low. You are my hero. LOL
I am almost positive you should leave the controller set to user once you enter your settings. Switching back to another setting should go back to factory settings for that battery type even though it retains the user settings which are under the "user" selection.
It makes more sense to think of "User" set up as "custom" set up. page 28 of the manual lists the presets for battery type. The final column headed user (custom) states the limitations of the parameters you can change. if you don't leave it on user (custom) of course it will revert to parameters for the battery type selected. hope this helps
I watched this about 15 months ago when I installed my system and it has run flawlessly until yesterday. The positive connection wire clamp is not holding the panel cable tight. I gave up and shimmed it with a toothpick. Then it was on night mode and not charging so I remembered your video and came back today. Right now it seems to be back up and performing as designed. I just need to repair that connection. Eventually. Thank you! Twice!
Wow thanks, I got the Rover 60-amp yesterday but they sent my to lithium 100 amp batteries back to California because of ups with some hazmat bullcrap. So this is very helpful cuz I will need to set that. Thanks
Page 16 of the manual: "The charging parameter setting (Equalizing voltage, Boost voltage, Floating charging voltage, over-discharge return voltage, Over-discharge voltage) are only available under the battery *USER* mode. Press and hold the right arrow to enter the programming settings and continue pressing the right arrow button until you see the desired voltage screen. "
I seen this in the book to. LOL The charging parameter setting (Equalizing voltage, Boost voltage, Floating charging voltage, over-discharge return voltage, Over-discharge voltage) are only available under the battery “USER” mode. Press and hold the right arrow to enter the programming settings and continue pressing the right arrow button until you see the desired voltage screen.
Thank you for this video. I just got a 30amp Renogy Rover controller and like you said the manual leave something to be desired. Your video helped me out a lot. Thumbs up!!!
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
@@garyenwards1608 I have been using the 20amp Rover in my camper and, it reads battery voltage accurately, I checked with my voltage tester and get the same reading. it's been on constantly for 4 years maintaining two deep cell 6v batteries in series. (12v) . not one problem.
ThankYOU! Watched Renogy's talking head dope reading his teleprompter with a dead brain! We need to send them a bill for your good work! This is the Rover, my Renogy is the Voyager MPPT controller, Still helpful. Thanks
This is for older Rover 40. Now they have a different interface, there are no blue Enter buttons, and in User mode it can also be programmed via Bluetooth dongle and app. The app is cr-appy, by the way.
Great video! So well done! It was easy to see the tiny lettering. Very well done. U Sd ask renology and rich solar to publish on their web site. (It’s the same controller)
Hey I just got a Renogy Rover 60a MPPT for my LiFePo4 system and I am putting in the custom voltages needed for that battery chemistry under the “User” mode. (LFP default settings don’t match what Battle Born recommends for their battery.) I am no expert, but I am fairly sure that once programming user settings, one should leave the battery type selected as USR rather than another kind, lest the controller use the default values described in the manual of whatever other type than USR is selected.
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
Great Video, I purchased this controller (60 AMP essentially the same) for my boat and am OK with it. I use it to keep 400 AH lithium batteries charged, monitor with the BT2. My energy consumers use relatively low amperage except for the 12 volt fridge and that is somewhat low. My only issue is the Load terminals, they do not output voltage they are in the off mode all the time. It seems like the design is to output voltage when the panels are not powered (night), this makes no sense to me, unless you are simply using it for a timer after the panels stop producing. I thought the purpose of load is to use surplus energy when the batteries are topped off, that would be a great idea since the solar panels would not have any use for the solar energy after the batteries are at 100%+.
This video is gold! Wasn't real clear on low voltage disconnect-reconnect though. I'm assuming the first numbers were ow voltage reconnect and second set were low disconnect? The renogy instructions are garbage. Written by a techie for techies with a basic knowledge or level of experience i guess... not for us dummies that need it to be clearly explained. Thanks for taking time to make and post this video.
you are right that is not mentioned in the instructions. I was about to order a dongle to change the settings with my phone. I cancelled that order because I no longer need it. Thanks for the info.
Your welcome flyguyhelo... As for the blue tooth dongle, I have two of those. One I use in my RV, and the other in my enclosed car hauler. They work great and make it easy to keep track of what's going on within the charge controllers. I did download the charge controller software to my laptop but I prefer the app over it because it's very easy to use.
@@RogerSayers what Dongle are you using?? On Amazon it appears the BT-1 is not even worth buying according to the reviews. I cannot find another one that works with Renogy 40A. MPPT Charge Controller. I would appreciate any help.
great video, only one i found that was easy to understand, my biggest problem is my rv was wired for solar and the wires coming into my compartment were labeled wrong, battery was solar and vise versa
The gentleman at Renogy told me to leave the battery type in the USE mode for the custom settings you select to apply, so It sounds like you may be incorrect about switching it back to your battery type you have after you set your parameters.
Sorry mate but this video is incorrect.. All the different battery profiles have fixed settings. The only one you can change is the USER profile and then you must leave the controller on that USER profile. Changing it back to another battery type will not carry over your settings that you entered in the USER profile. It will simply revert back to the settings that Ronogy have programmed it for the battery type that you have selected
I'm not sure that it's right for you to have set up all the custom settings in the "user" mode, and then switched to the "lithium" mode. I'm pretty sure that once you switch over to Lithium it will default to the unit's preset lithium charging parameters. Anyone know if i'm right about this?
If you are wanting to use the parameters you set you need to leave it on "User" for battery type. all those settings you changed did not change the settings for flooded battery.....User is what it sounds like " user mode" or custom.
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
I have a slightly older model Rover 20A PG & the operation of it is causing me a near nervous breakdown! To explain.... I'm using the controller with a 100W Renogy panel & an inverter. Everything seems to work like a dream but.... The company has told me that I shouldn't be drawing power from the unit whilst it is being charged from the panel. This effectively stops all use during the day & I'm now wondering what, if any, is a safe amount of charge to be coming down from the panel to allow me to take power from the battery? Should I only use it at night or after 7.... 😵💫 I think the problem(s,) which I've been told could damage my battery, lies in the charging cycles which I now think are not designed/expecting an inverter to be using the system. The company have told me to put in a circuit breaker for whenever I want to draw power. I'm coming round to thinking that the MPPT is really not designed to work with a setup that uses an inverter? Any views/help?
Does my 3000 watt inverter hook up to the Load terminals on the Renogy controller? I've seen videos where the invertor goes on the positive and negative terminals on the battery.
Never connect the inverter to the load terminals of the charge controller. You should ONLY connect the inverter to the battery terminals and make sure that your connection spans the whole set of batteries, i.e. don't connect everything to the terminals of the same battery (same applies to the charge controller, not just inverter).
How can you change the Bulk/Constant charge volt setting? It seems to cap out at about 13.5. I need 14.4 to charge my lipo battery. Or how do I force it into boost mode?
THANK YOU For this video -- it was great! I have a 40A and the BT1 Bluetooth, but the Bluetooth does not come up, even with the BT1 connected. How do I get the BT1 to work?
Thank you. Much better instruction than the manual which leaves much to be desired.I learned more watching this video one time than it did reading the manual four or five times. Great job!
For 24volt dc battery settings ...multiply by 2x the voltages seen in equalize, boost, float, and all other voltages seen in use mode...It is designed that way..will not change just because you have 24volt battery system..
Thanks. This is good info. I am using two AGM batteries. Which setting do I use for this? Gel or flooded? My battery percentage reading does not match a separate monitor I have plugged into my power outlets, the controller always seems to read lower than the remote. Can you give any ideas? Thanks.
@@Harleyglide03 Agm batteries are considered sealed from my research. I'm setting mine to sealed and leaving it at that. Renogy's 1 800 # in a previous comment for customer service should confirm or deny that.
Did you set this up for Renogy's AGM 12v 100 ah batteries? I have 4 of them in parallel. I looked up on their website the stats and it is just like yours to a tee. I'm not sure the Boost voltage. All this time I just had it setup in "SLD" mode. I like the idea 💡 of User mode instead. Thanks!
Now I just purchased LifePo4 batteries so I will be changing them out soon and have to program for them as well. I will see how to program when I get them.
Mine equalized this afternoon. It appears to only activate when it wants to. Last time I saw equalized was more than 6 months ago. It's only done that two times in total.
Very helpful video, question I have is the 12V/24V setting, is that referring to your battery bank or is it referring to the amount of voltage you are bringing down from the solar panels? I am using a 12 volt battery system but I my solar panels are bringing down 24V to the Renogy controller. Thanks for your help.
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
The manual is awful. Thank you! I wish I knew how to turn the load off and on. Today none of my load was working I thought it was a wiring issue double checked all that. I hit a couple buttons no idea what I did and everything turned back on.
What if you build your own battery pack out of 18650s? I'm pretty sure you want Lithium as the battery type because lithium doesn't use equalization or float voltages.
You can set on the app everything including the amount of time for each phase im using it for my homemade 18650 pack I've got the voltage maxed out at 14.6 volts..because thats the max for the inverter but 16 is the max charge for the batterie pack..under charging will make the pack last longer..and less chance of over charging just a thought..
Lifepo4s don’t use equalize. Set the equalize charge time to “0” which effectively turns it off. When the battery is discharged past a certain point, the controller will switch to Boost to charge it back up quickly. You’ll also want to set Temp Compensation to “0” as well.
I'm sorry but this is really bad information and completely wrong. If you switch to user profile to enter custom parameters, that is where you then leave the controller set after you set the parameters. If you then switch back to one of the specific battery types, the custom settings you have just entered cease to have any effect as the controller has returned to its default parameters. Believe me, I have one of these and I know how to adjust the parameters.
How can you see it its tiny like Un FN Readable!!! 2x for 70ea was not bad but I will never use amazon or purchase chinese products I hope you all do the same before it is too late!!!
Great video! I've tried to Google.. the parameters of my battery, couldn't seem to find anything specific in regards to boost, equaliser... suggestions please. Thanks
*Super compact and easy to carry and travel with accessories for the electric **Generater.Systems** .I was worried this was going to be bulky or hard to use.Hooks up easy and charges quickly*
God Bless You! I could not for the life of me, even after a dozen conversations with tech support, figure out why my batteries would not charge over 12.8 volts. My overcharged parameters were set too low. You are my hero. LOL
Finally somebody that knows how to explain the Rover parameter setup. Good job explaining. Thank you!
Sweeet!!! Thank you! Went over and over the manual and than I searched TH-cam. Happy I did! Great Job!
I am almost positive you should leave the controller set to user once you enter your settings. Switching back to another setting should go back to factory settings for that battery type even though it retains the user settings which are under the "user" selection.
Actually, it's worse than that. If you switch from User to another battery type, all settings in the User profile will change to default.
I'm with you Alan on this, changing the battery type back to something else makes zero sense
Yes, all other battery types have preset. User is the only ones you can change
It makes more sense to think of "User" set up as "custom" set up. page 28 of the manual lists the presets for battery type. The final column headed user (custom) states the limitations of the parameters you can change. if you don't leave it on user (custom) of course it will revert to parameters for the battery type selected.
hope this helps
Yes. This is true! And this works for the Rover 100A model as well as the manual lacks this info.
I watched this about 15 months ago when I installed my system and it has run flawlessly until yesterday. The positive connection wire clamp is not holding the panel cable tight. I gave up and shimmed it with a toothpick. Then it was on night mode and not charging so I remembered your video and came back today. Right now it seems to be back up and performing as designed. I just need to repair that connection. Eventually. Thank you! Twice!
same problem here.....unscrew it WAY out, the wire must be inserted toward the front for it to engage with the clamp that hold it.
@@danstrayer111 thanks, I eventually did figure that out once I took it off of the wall where I could see it. Now I have a spare.
@@hankhighsmith9050 Ha! I also had to take it off to see what the hell the problem was.
Wow thanks, I got the Rover 60-amp yesterday but they sent my to lithium 100 amp batteries back to California because of ups with some hazmat bullcrap. So this is very helpful cuz I will need to set that. Thanks
Thank you, didn't realize it had to be set to user mode to modify parameters.
Thank you very much, this really help me out a lot. Just got mine on the wall today, going to load it up tomorrow
Page 16 of the manual:
"The charging parameter setting (Equalizing voltage, Boost voltage, Floating charging voltage, over-discharge return voltage, Over-discharge voltage) are only available under the battery *USER* mode. Press and hold the right arrow to enter the programming settings and continue pressing the right arrow button until you see the desired voltage screen. "
Lol
I seen this in the book to. LOL The charging parameter setting (Equalizing voltage, Boost voltage, Floating charging voltage,
over-discharge return voltage, Over-discharge voltage) are only available under the battery
“USER” mode. Press and hold the right arrow to enter the programming settings and continue
pressing the right arrow button until you see the desired voltage screen.
You can keep a thermometer near by and just use the scale conversion.
Thanks. I was a real-time software expert but this manual really got me frustrated.
Thank you for this video. I just got a 30amp Renogy Rover controller and like you said the manual leave something to be desired. Your video helped me out a lot. Thumbs up!!!
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
@@garyenwards1608 I have been using the 20amp Rover in my camper and, it reads battery voltage accurately, I checked with my voltage tester and get the same reading. it's been on constantly for 4 years maintaining two deep cell 6v batteries in series. (12v) . not one problem.
@@socalives SOLD
ThankYOU! Watched Renogy's talking head dope reading his teleprompter with a dead brain! We need to send them a bill for your good work! This is the Rover, my Renogy is the Voyager MPPT controller, Still helpful. Thanks
My 40 mmpt controller had 0 dicrections with them! Thanks for the help.
Thanks for pointing that out! I thought the manual or I was missing something!! THANKS!!
This is for older Rover 40. Now they have a different interface, there are no blue Enter buttons, and in User mode it can also be programmed via Bluetooth dongle and app. The app is cr-appy, by the way.
Thanks a million. This also works for the Rich solar 20A MPPT.
Thank you for the great tutorial. My system is a 12v as well. Your video is very helpful.
Thanks Roger! This information is very helpful. 🙂
Brilliant! Thank you so much for taking the time! I really appreciate it.
Great video! So well done! It was easy to see the tiny lettering. Very well done. U Sd ask renology and rich solar to publish on their web site. (It’s the same controller)
Hey I just got a Renogy Rover 60a MPPT for my LiFePo4 system and I am putting in the custom voltages needed for that battery chemistry under the “User” mode. (LFP default settings don’t match what Battle Born recommends for their battery.)
I am no expert, but I am fairly sure that once programming user settings, one should leave the battery type selected as USR rather than another kind, lest the controller use the default values described in the manual of whatever other type than USR is selected.
Thanks
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
How did you set your life po4?settings I’m not sure what to put on float and boost
You rocked it. Answered my question. Thank you!
Great Video, I purchased this controller (60 AMP essentially the same) for my boat and am OK with it. I use it to keep 400 AH lithium batteries charged, monitor with the BT2. My energy consumers use relatively low amperage except for the 12 volt fridge and that is somewhat low. My only issue is the Load terminals, they do not output voltage they are in the off mode all the time. It seems like the design is to output voltage when the panels are not powered (night), this makes no sense to me, unless you are simply using it for a timer after the panels stop producing. I thought the purpose of load is to use surplus energy when the batteries are topped off, that would be a great idea since the solar panels would not have any use for the solar energy after the batteries are at 100%+.
This video is gold! Wasn't real clear on low voltage disconnect-reconnect though. I'm assuming the first numbers were ow voltage reconnect and second set were low disconnect? The renogy instructions are garbage. Written by a techie for techies with a basic knowledge or level of experience i guess... not for us dummies that need it to be clearly explained. Thanks for taking time to make and post this video.
you are right that is not mentioned in the instructions. I was about to order a dongle to change the settings with my phone. I cancelled that order because I no longer need it. Thanks for the info.
Your welcome flyguyhelo... As for the blue tooth dongle, I have two of those. One I use in my RV, and the other in my enclosed car hauler. They work great and make it easy to keep track of what's going on within the charge controllers. I did download the charge controller software to my laptop but I prefer the app over it because it's very easy to use.
@@RogerSayers what Dongle are you using?? On Amazon it appears the BT-1 is not even worth buying according to the reviews. I cannot find another one that works with Renogy 40A. MPPT Charge Controller. I would appreciate any help.
Thanks champ. I always forget this.
This video was so helpful. Thank you.
Thank you the manual is so deficient
Thanks alot man . Very informative for me.
great video, only one i found that was easy to understand, my biggest problem is my rv was wired for solar and the wires coming into my compartment were labeled wrong, battery was solar and vise versa
If you don't use the user setting and decide to use the Renogy parameters, what would I use for an AGM battery, sealed or gel or flooded?
Did you ever find out?
You did very well. Got me through it. Many thanks.
Get the Bluetooth attachment BT1 and through that you can change the temperature settings from Fahrenheit to Celsius using your cell phone.
Very helpful. Thank you 👍🏼
Thanks this is the same for srne controllers as well.
The gentleman at Renogy told me to leave the battery type in the USE mode for the custom settings you select to apply, so It sounds like you may be incorrect about switching it back to your battery type you have after you set your parameters.
thank you bro i was looking for the overcharged setting it is not so obvious in the manual i have the function to get to “user”that page
Wonderful video. Do you know how to reset the controller? I could never find that info and the manual.
Thanks so very helpful
Sorry mate but this video is incorrect.. All the different battery profiles have fixed settings. The only one you can change is the USER profile and then you must leave the controller on that USER profile. Changing it back to another battery type will not carry over your settings that you entered in the USER profile. It will simply revert back to the settings that Ronogy have programmed it for the battery type that you have selected
But what is the user setting for?
I'm not sure that it's right for you to have set up all the custom settings in the "user" mode, and then switched to the "lithium" mode. I'm pretty sure that once you switch over to Lithium it will default to the unit's preset lithium charging parameters. Anyone know if i'm right about this?
If you are wanting to use the parameters you set you need to leave it on "User" for battery type. all those settings you changed did not change the settings for flooded battery.....User is what it sounds like " user mode" or custom.
Yeah, I thought the same thing watching the video
Thanks, I was wondering about that, too.
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
I have a slightly older model Rover 20A PG & the operation of it is causing me a near nervous breakdown!
To explain....
I'm using the controller with a 100W Renogy panel & an inverter. Everything seems to work like a dream but.... The company has told me that I shouldn't be drawing power from the unit whilst it is being charged from the panel. This effectively stops all use during the day & I'm now wondering what, if any, is a safe amount of charge to be coming down from the panel to allow me to take power from the battery? Should I only use it at night or after 7.... 😵💫
I think the problem(s,) which I've been told could damage my battery, lies in the charging cycles which I now think are not designed/expecting an inverter to be using the system.
The company have told me to put in a circuit breaker for whenever I want to draw power.
I'm coming round to thinking that the MPPT is really not designed to work with a setup that uses an inverter?
Any views/help?
Does my 3000 watt inverter hook up to the Load terminals on the Renogy controller? I've seen videos where the invertor goes on the positive and negative terminals on the battery.
Never connect the inverter to the load terminals of the charge controller. You should ONLY connect the inverter to the battery terminals and make sure that your connection spans the whole set of batteries, i.e. don't connect everything to the terminals of the same battery (same applies to the charge controller, not just inverter).
How can you change the Bulk/Constant charge volt setting? It seems to cap out at about 13.5. I need 14.4 to charge my lipo battery. Or how do I force it into boost mode?
Have you ever gotten this figured out ? I’m in the same boat, so any new info would be very helpful !
THANK YOU For this video -- it was great!
I have a 40A and the BT1 Bluetooth, but the Bluetooth does not come up, even with the BT1 connected. How do I get the BT1 to work?
thank you very much for the overview, very helpful!
Thank you. Much better instruction than the manual which leaves much to be desired.I learned more watching this video one time than it did reading the manual four or five times. Great job!
Great video. Thanks.
Good video.my rover won't recognise the solar panels and I have 19 volts coming in and no light on the top of the charger?
Thank you, you would think Renogy would put that in the manual
For 24volt dc battery settings ...multiply by 2x the voltages seen in equalize, boost, float, and all other voltages seen in use mode...It is designed that way..will not change just because you have 24volt battery system..
Thanks. This is good info. I am using two AGM batteries. Which setting do I use for this? Gel or flooded? My battery percentage reading does not match a separate monitor I have plugged into my power outlets, the controller always seems to read lower than the remote. Can you give any ideas? Thanks.
Been wondering that myself. Did you ever find an answer?Thx.
dhu1042476 I have not.
@@Harleyglide03 Agm batteries are considered sealed from my research. I'm setting mine to sealed and leaving it at that. Renogy's 1 800 # in a previous comment for customer service should confirm or deny that.
@@Harleyglide03 1(800) 330-8678 or
909 287 7111.
SLD for sealed lead acid
Did you set this up for Renogy's AGM 12v 100 ah batteries? I have 4 of them in parallel. I looked up on their website the stats and it is just like yours to a tee. I'm not sure the Boost voltage. All this time I just had it setup in "SLD" mode. I like the idea 💡 of User mode instead. Thanks!
Thanks for watching... No on the AGM batteries, I don't use AGM
Now I just purchased LifePo4 batteries so I will be changing them out soon and have to program for them as well. I will see how to program when I get them.
We can't figure out how to get that dotted line arrow active to that bulb symbol...!!!???
You are a saint sir!!
What about if I don't see a battery percent on my screeen?
Thank you!
Thank you, just got it today. I only have 3 x 100 watt panels, this can handle 500 watts max right?
more like 600-650W
Darn good job!!!
THANKS BUNCHES
you know how to start equalizing manually?
Sorry I don't.
Mine equalized this afternoon. It appears to only activate when it wants to. Last time I saw equalized was more than 6 months ago. It's only done that two times in total.
great vid
Very helpful video, question I have is the 12V/24V setting, is that referring to your battery bank or is it referring to the amount of voltage you are bringing down from the solar panels? I am using a 12 volt battery system but I my solar panels are bringing down 24V to the Renogy controller. Thanks for your help.
12/24 refers to battery bank nominal voltage
@@fratermus5502 thank you
Are you Shure about that.
I have a EP ever Tracer 40 amp charge controller that I've been using for 4 years now without an issue I'd like to purchase two more units though and I'm considering the renogy charge controller and another 40 amp EP ever but I've seen multiple people say that the renogy charge controllers don't read the batteries accurately. In your experience is it reading accurately have you tested with a multimeter at the batteries to compare to the charge controller?
That was well hidden. thanks a bunch
The manual is awful. Thank you!
I wish I knew how to turn the load off and on. Today none of my load was working I thought it was a wiring issue double checked all that. I hit a couple buttons no idea what I did and everything turned back on.
What if you build your own battery pack out of 18650s? I'm pretty sure you want Lithium as the battery type because lithium doesn't use equalization or float voltages.
Get the blue tooth module all settings on your phone with the bt app
Raw Solar off Grid I did buy a Bluetooth module. Damn thing came with the wrong plug on it.
You can set on the app everything including the amount of time for each phase im using it for my homemade 18650 pack I've got the voltage maxed out at 14.6 volts..because thats the max for the inverter but 16 is the max charge for the batterie pack..under charging will make the pack last longer..and less chance of over charging just a thought..
You can also order an inverter from reliable that will run at 16 volts which I may do soon
thanx - you did show me how
What is 'equalize'? What is 'boost'? I have LiFePho why do I need to change them?
Lifepo4s don’t use equalize. Set the equalize charge time to “0” which effectively turns it off. When the battery is discharged past a certain point, the controller will switch to Boost to charge it back up quickly. You’ll also want to set Temp Compensation to “0” as well.
Thanks!
Controller won’t switch to daylight mode
This is complete miss information, if you change the battery type away from user defined then all you custom settings are lost
I think you are correct. It appears that any battery type you select is pre-adjusted unless you leave your battery select type in the use mode
You set everything as user settings and you went back to FLD mode.
exactly how can that ever work right?
I'm sorry but this is really bad information and completely wrong. If you switch to user profile to enter custom parameters, that is where you then leave the controller set after you set the parameters. If you then switch back to one of the specific battery types, the custom settings you have just entered cease to have any effect as the controller has returned to its default parameters. Believe me, I have one of these and I know how to adjust the parameters.
How can you see it its tiny like Un FN Readable!!! 2x for 70ea was not bad but I will never use amazon or purchase chinese products I hope you all do the same before it is too late!!!
Perimeter rather than parameter is doing my head.
Parameter Perimeter Tomato tomatoe
I don't think you really know how it works either!
Haha he set it all up then switched back to the factory settings, what a dummy.
Wrong
Great video! I've tried to Google.. the parameters of my battery, couldn't seem to find anything specific in regards to boost, equaliser... suggestions please. Thanks
What dose equalize mean..do...and float mean and do..and the other one.... no help there