@@wokeamerica142 my mistake, I've been on the trade for 5 years now which is still very new but I have th skills and knowledge to diagnose and repair engines. The thing is I'm no where near as skilled as Dave and what I meant is with my 5 years experience I'd love to do a year with him now, not from scratch but because I'm already experienced and understand basics I could learn so so so much from Dave
I had A 95' Nissan 4cyl. , 5 spd manual. Ran good 200k miles, just that transmission shop couldn't get throwout bearing installed correctly. Either that or they were all junk.I sold said trukk and washed my hands of it. Was way under powered for me anyway.
This guy is one of the rare mechanics who actually understands how to properly troubleshoot rather than blindly throwing parts at a problem. Amazing content in all of his videos
I’ve had my fair share of Land Rover crap. We had a… 2011 or 2012 HSE with the N/A 5.0 V8 and my lord that thing had the worst coolant system leak I’ve ever seen. Since the main issue was the water pump but the issue is that there’s a giant plastic crossover thing that decided to split in half the moment you touch it. So they had to get replaced and I swear I’ll never work on a 2000’s and up Land Rover I’ll take the old school ones with the 3.5 and 3.9 V8 all day
The solution that I find works is leave the timing cover loose and install the damper then tighten the timing cover. This centers the cover to the damper.🤔
It should have dowels to locate it already, so you'd have to remove them for that to work. Perhaps the seal is a dodgy one and out of round. Check if the crank has bearing play.
@@TheCreedBrattonso in other words, you’d have to finish what the manufacturer started to do, but short cut for whatever the reason was… Oh yeah and, on your dime??? 🤓👍🏽 got it….
This channel is pretty good but i just having a hard time with a "professional" referring to engines as motors. When i started out as an apprentice the first time i called an engine a motor my boss spent the next 30 minutes educating me on the difference between a motor and an engine. He didn't give a shit about stupid naming conventions like motorcycle or other countries bad habits that became adopted by others. If its electric its a motor. If it has a combustion process its an engine. The guy was a skilled mechanic and welder. Other truck dealer mechanics from the big city would routinely call him for advice on even newer trucks. And by trucks i mean 18 wheelers not these little four wheeler pickups. We wirked on and rebuilt big Cummins engines, Detroit 8V92, and Cat engines as well. I haven't seen John Nesbit in quite a while and doubt hes still with us but damn there was a mechanical genius right there and he would say what op is doing is working on and repairing small engines. Not a motor.
Why are there so few honest shops though? Why are so many ready and willing to do minimal effort and lazily address issues or at worst lie to the customer?
@SM-qe4wd In what industry have you needed to purchase something from, have you seen the majority of companies or service providers be fair & honest? That's the minority no matter what it is.
So happy I randomly found your channel. Wish all mechanics/shops were as trustworthy as yours. Always looking out for the customer and not just trying to make an extra buck. Loving your content. Keep up the great work!
There is a special procedure to install the aluminum cover there; it must be centered to the crank, with a tool, BEFORE you thighten its bolts; several other motors are like that.
THE FRONT COVER IS OBVIOUSLY DEFECTIVE FROM THE FACTORY, I WOULD IMAGINE THAT THIS WOULD BE A WARRANTY REPAIR. IF NOT, JUST REPLACE THE FRONT COVER WITH SEAL AND GASKETS. ✝️🇺🇲
You beat me to it. Toyotas are the best. My 2004 Taco loses 8 ounces of oil between changes with 300k miles on it. Assume 3000 RPMs and 1 trip up and down for the cylinder for each revolution means I'm coming up on 2 billion one way trips each cylinder has made.
Toyota reliable but God dam they're a pain in the ass to work on i just had to drop a cradle to install a lower control arm they're still using manual set tensioner alternators and the most annoying oil filter cartridges
@@jayo552 Ford sold off Jaguar and Land Rover to Tata Motors / Tata Corporation in 2008, owned by Indian Mega-Billionaire and industrialist Ravan Tata - Remember the Great Recession of 2008 ? Ford quickly unloaded JLR and Volvo (sold Volvo to a Chinese Corporation ).
loosen the bolts on the timing cover, temporarily reinstall damper, which re-centers the seal/ timing cover on crank/dampener snout, re-torque the timing cover bolts. If you know what your doing, you could match drill a couple of holes in timing cover & block and install some 3/16" dowels to permanently locate it properly.
I came here to say essentially the same thing. However, if the cover already has dowels they will need to be removed first as the timing cover was obviously not correctly indexed at the factory.
Best repair is to lease a Range Rover and give it back at the end of lease/warranty. These things are incredibly unreliable…..speaking from experience.
I'm not a land Rover mechanic just everything else but the ones I've seen all were horribly inoperable machines. I only saw two ever in years, and both were spewing coolant out, no other car just boom breaks like that
Doesn't always work on an assembled motor inside a vehicle. If it did, then GM wouldn't have a front cover alignment tool for their LS motors. I had one where I had to pry the front cover down to even get the alignment tool to fit, then torque everything before I removed the tool. I wouldn't have been able to get it in the right spot without the tool.
Take the inner spring out of the seal unscrew it's ends clip out perhaps 2 rings out of the female end screw it back together and replace that spring inside the rubber portion of the seal. Now you've essentially tightened the seal. Old school fix for that type of deals taught to me by a fellow who was a master field mechanic on power line construction crews. Works on all seals of this type.
I used to put the balancer on before torquing the timing cover. Worked most the time. But with dowls this makes it harder. Remover the dowls. Torked the oil pan bolts last.
I've never worked on an engine that you could just slip the vibration dampener right on, but your blue dye process certainly showed you what you needed to see.
The bigger cummins diesels are made like that. There is a blank spacer for want of a better word the same dimension as the seal. You get all of that sitting pretty before you tighten the timing cover up
I'd say the timing cover is somehow "off-center". Unless someone removed the 'locating-dowls/pins" I don't see how that would happen. I've ran across this issue before (not on a Land Rover, but...)and what I did was loosened the oil pan and drop it down, because it was for the Used Car Department of Dealership that worked for at the time. Customer needed the car to go on vacation, we couldn't get a new front cover before the following Wednesday, it was Thursday and the customer wanted to leave Friday. We could get the oil pan gasket kit, so I dropped the pan, centered front cover on the installed crank pulley and snugged the cover up, and Torqued it into place, reinstalled the oil pan and no leaks.😎
On a Chevy LS engine you have to align the oil pan and the front and rear covers with special tools to be sure the crankshaft seals won't leak. The tools are simple to use and not expensive. I replaced the oil pan on the LS engine in my truck and changed all the seals. Thankfully, I have no leaks.
I’ve fixed this problem. Get a seal with a smaller OD and epoxy it in place then put the balancer on. It will find its right place and the epoxy will harden up. Pull the balancer and epoxy the seal in. Fixed. No pulling the front cover. I did a cross Atlantic trip in a sailboat and the forward gear leaked the fluid out halfway across. When we got to the first port they didn’t have the correct seal. One a mil smaller OD. I glued it in and it never leaked again. Got to where we were going and the new owner was happy that I fixed it. It still hasn’t leaked.
Lol, no shit. I'm gonna try to find a scrap engine at the shop and send it to him so we can see how that goes! Maybe I'm wrong, but I wouldn't trust that guy to put air in my tires, much less open the hood.
Most timing covers have dowels. To make this fit you may have to actually remove the dowels and maybe oversize the bolt holes a bit. Then replace the seals and put the damper pulley on before tightening the cover down.
No he's one Helluva technician. I know a few plumbers in my day that fancied themselves as engineers. Know your role and be good at it, like this gent is!
WTF you're talking about trading in pain in the left ass cheek for pain in the right ass cheek. Why don't you just get them both and take it right down the middle? 😂😂😂
You buy a seal spacer ,it fits over the blancer ,heat it a little slides right on put some grease on it slide it back on it will never leak again i used them in my time 15 to 18 times over 45yrs
Hey this problem has been around since the first mopar LA engine cause no dowel pins to locate the timing cover....to this day I use the dampner to align the front seal on small block Mopar...then cinch the cover bolts down to set it and forget it...😂😂😂
I used to have that problem with automatic transmissions in the early days take the spring out of the seal cut a quarter of an inch off of it Backlash the spring put the hands together and let It screw itself back in not saying that would fix this particular situation I have used that on torque converters and slip yokes. Just saying not saying I would fix it
So you are saying that every 4.6 has this problem? Sounds like something isn't right, bent shaft, missing bearing, bent bearing, this also probably means that all of the cylinders are that much off and might be burning oil or losing compression. Maybe the source of it is due to the transmission having the wrong alignment, or something. Is there a way for you to measure run out while it is turning to make sure the crankshaft is seated properly and flowing well? Is there a certain amount of distance they are supposed to be past the main bearing? Maybe that engine supn a bearing or two and they didn't make sure everything was ok. I know that is something to watch for on rebuilds because those can shift or be too large of gaps. Maybe it is one of those 3v engines rebuilt?
Just loosen the bolts on the cover and nudge it over a bit and retighten the bolts. The bolt holes should have some amount of play to compensate that small amount of offset.
The answer, and everyone should have already known this since the 1980's, is to never buy a Landrover. Ever. They aren't just garbage, they are vastly overpriced garbage.
I have a set of alignment tools for the ls 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 for the front timing cover and the rear main seal I won't ever put one together again with out them they take out so much guess work and just make accurate alignment everytime.
I have a 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. It has about 130k miles and 7000 idle hours. The car runs great, doesn't leak or burn any fluids. The problem is it has a lifter tick. I replaced a couple of lifters and rockers, and the tick came back. Thinking it's more lifters and rockers. No scarring on the cam. Under the valve cover was spotless. No gunk. My dilemma is that I found a 4.6 2v out of a 2010 Town Car with 60k miles on it for $800. I can get a guy to put it in for me for $800. That's $1600 for basically a new engine. My question is am I better off replacing all these lifters and rockers or just getting the used engine. To my knowledge, there is no difference in the engine other than the oil cooler.
WRONG! Just loosen the cover, install the damper, slow spin to align the cover, retorque. BASIC first year knowledge. Actual directions from the FACTORY. There is already a tool that you can buy for 9 bucks that does the same as installing the damper for alignment.
This guy is what a lifetime of experience looks like
Read my mind
Lmao!
He's ready to retire
Nope
If his apprentice is looking on, there should be a transfer of knowledge taking place.
Q: Do you know why the British don't produce computers?
A: Because they haven't yet figured out a way to make them leak oil
Don't forget Lucas is the best electronics they can make.
Why do the british drink warm beer?? They have Lucas refrigerators @@disillusionedamerican7057
we invented computers 😂
@@trickym5748Analog and mechanical yes digital and electric no
Lord Sugar's Amstrad?
I would absolutely love to spend 12 months being mentored by you. Absolute golden knowledge and skill
Bro 12 months isn't enough time tbf takes years to become a decent mechanic and pick up the tricks to the trade
I think David would have an endless line of volunteers for this role.
wouldn't be enough time.
@@wokeamerica142 my mistake, I've been on the trade for 5 years now which is still very new but I have th skills and knowledge to diagnose and repair engines. The thing is I'm no where near as skilled as Dave and what I meant is with my 5 years experience I'd love to do a year with him now, not from scratch but because I'm already experienced and understand basics I could learn so so so much from Dave
@@jamallabarge2665 of course, his literally a dictionary for automotive. He has definitions and answers for everything
Easy fix dont buy a crappy land rover
Change the bushing p on the crank
Amen
Range Rover has a real bad name here in Australia 👌
It has a French engine.
Point of order: "crappy Land Rover" is a redundant statement
Always good to see a Land Rover in it’s natural habitat.
😂
:)))
😂🤣😂 Well it is a Pommy car after all.
Good One 🎉
You could literally drop a GM, Chrysler, Ford, or Toyota engine into this thing and make it way more reliable than it ever was brand new. 😂
The smart way to fix that problem is buy a Toyota landcruiser
A Toyota is the solution but those who want to be different with euro how can they solve this problem.
@@dcomputers what’s so different about a Land Rover?, they are everywhere.
I had A 95' Nissan 4cyl. , 5 spd manual. Ran good 200k miles, just that transmission shop couldn't get throwout bearing installed correctly. Either that or they were all junk.I sold said trukk and washed my hands of it. Was way under powered for me anyway.
@@dcomputersswap a UZ into the Land Rover.
@@zeropointzero with the price of fuel now it would kill you at the pump
"I can't move the crankshaft well actually I could but were not gonna do that," lol you're a real pro. I love your videos.
Basically what he meant was that it'd cost 10 grand to pull everything and machine it lol
@@firingallcylinders2949so basically what you are saying is, is it’d cost ten grand to do what the manufacturer was supposed to do prior???
Change the centre line
This guy is one of the rare mechanics who actually understands how to properly troubleshoot rather than blindly throwing parts at a problem. Amazing content in all of his videos
I’ve had my fair share of Land Rover crap. We had a… 2011 or 2012 HSE with the N/A 5.0 V8 and my lord that thing had the worst coolant system leak I’ve ever seen. Since the main issue was the water pump but the issue is that there’s a giant plastic crossover thing that decided to split in half the moment you touch it. So they had to get replaced and I swear I’ll never work on a 2000’s and up Land Rover I’ll take the old school ones with the 3.5 and 3.9 V8 all day
The solution that I find works is leave the timing cover loose and install the damper then tighten the timing cover. This centers the cover to the damper.🤔
It should have dowels to locate it already, so you'd have to remove them for that to work. Perhaps the seal is a dodgy one and out of round. Check if the crank has bearing play.
@@itsthatguy5742 That's almost comically terrible that they were still producing cars with worn out tooling lol.
@@masterpah1And new ones as well. But definitely old ones.
Not if the bolt holes haven't got much tolerance with the bolts and tightening then pulls it back to the bad position.
Wear sleeve and new seal.
love when he mentioned changing the center line of the crank shaft being crazy work lol. it's no joke
Yeah you would have to skim the journals and line bore it
@@TheCreedBrattonso in other words, you’d have to finish what the manufacturer started to do, but short cut for whatever the reason was… Oh yeah and, on your dime??? 🤓👍🏽 got it….
This channel is pretty good but i just having a hard time with a "professional" referring to engines as motors. When i started out as an apprentice the first time i called an engine a motor my boss spent the next 30 minutes educating me on the difference between a motor and an engine. He didn't give a shit about stupid naming conventions like motorcycle or other countries bad habits that became adopted by others. If its electric its a motor. If it has a combustion process its an engine. The guy was a skilled mechanic and welder. Other truck dealer mechanics from the big city would routinely call him for advice on even newer trucks. And by trucks i mean 18 wheelers not these little four wheeler pickups. We wirked on and rebuilt big Cummins engines, Detroit 8V92, and Cat engines as well. I haven't seen John Nesbit in quite a while and doubt hes still with us but damn there was a mechanical genius right there and he would say what op is doing is working on and repairing small engines. Not a motor.
You couldn't change the center line of the crankshaft anyway because you would have the same problem with alignment of the transmission
This is what a honest pro shop looks like they diagnose the problem not just throw parts at it great job guys
Why are there so few honest shops though? Why are so many ready and willing to do minimal effort and lazily address issues or at worst lie to the customer?
@SM-qe4wd In what industry have you needed to purchase something from, have you seen the majority of companies or service providers be fair & honest? That's the minority no matter what it is.
Or commit fraud by telling you that a repair is needed..but it isn't.
So happy I randomly found your channel. Wish all mechanics/shops were as trustworthy as yours. Always looking out for the customer and not just trying to make an extra buck. Loving your content. Keep up the great work!
Welcome aboard!
There is a special procedure to install the aluminum cover there; it must be centered to the crank, with a tool, BEFORE you thighten its bolts; several other motors are like that.
Doll pins should be enough
Exactly what I thought. Just like an LS engine. Specialty tools made for that purpose.
that is poor design
@@eliudmamboDOWEL
what a shitty engine
I don’t know why but your videos are really really entertaining! Keep them up!
Thanks, will do!
THE FRONT COVER IS OBVIOUSLY DEFECTIVE FROM THE FACTORY, I WOULD IMAGINE THAT THIS WOULD BE A WARRANTY REPAIR.
IF NOT, JUST REPLACE THE FRONT COVER WITH SEAL AND GASKETS. ✝️🇺🇲
Going forward, are you guys able to put the link for the full video in the title name so if you click on it, it will take you to the video. Please 😅.
The easy Landrover fix is buy a Toyota !!!😂
I love your answer ! I'm a Toy guy too 👍
You beat me to it. Toyotas are the best. My 2004 Taco loses 8 ounces of oil between changes with 300k miles on it. Assume 3000 RPMs and 1 trip up and down for the cylinder for each revolution means I'm coming up on 2 billion one way trips each cylinder has made.
Made in India is quality backed by Modi SCAMMER Service Centers. Simply give them your personal informations.
@@nunyabidness117 Irony is I run 40 year old L200 4WD's, 4G63's for Life!!!
Toyota reliable but God dam they're a pain in the ass to work on i just had to drop a cradle to install a lower control arm they're still using manual set tensioner alternators and the most annoying oil filter cartridges
The problem is it’s a British car.
British label by INDIA quality.
Go check it out.
@@loktom4068that's the newer generations, not this car in particular 😂😂
@@loktom4068Don’t have inferior anyone do your work, and then your company put your stamp on it. Simple.
FORD OWNS ALL THAT
@@jayo552
Ford sold off Jaguar and Land Rover to Tata Motors / Tata Corporation in 2008, owned by Indian Mega-Billionaire and industrialist Ravan Tata - Remember the Great Recession of 2008 ? Ford quickly unloaded JLR and Volvo (sold Volvo to a Chinese Corporation ).
That thing looks pristine for a 2004 Landie. Probably never even been further than Starbucks.
Where it broke down...
If this mechanic saw the state most of those Discoveries are in the UK, he's realise a weeping crank seal really isn't all that bad 🤣
@@tomjackson1923 weeping is better than pouring i guess, lol.
He said landie ! 😜😜😜😜
This is actually a feature, its so it always leaks oil, so that you frequently check and fill your oil. Thanks, UK!
So this isn't auto repair , it's auto correction . You're not fixing what the owner did , but what the factory didn't do right in the first place.
loosen the bolts on the timing cover, temporarily reinstall damper, which re-centers the seal/ timing cover on crank/dampener snout, re-torque the timing cover bolts. If you know what your doing, you could match drill a couple of holes in timing cover & block and install some 3/16" dowels to permanently locate it properly.
I concur. I do that all the time.
I came here to say essentially the same thing. However, if the cover already has dowels they will need to be removed first as the timing cover was obviously not correctly indexed at the factory.
And a new seal, as it's been wearing off centre now for who knows how long.
WHY ? THIS IS MANUFACTURER ISSUE.
@stancoleshill8925 OK. You try to get the manufacturers to fix it, and we'll fix it ourselves, and we'll see who gets it fixed, first.
Started with Prussian blue ended with vandyke brown
Very funny! Wondering how many get it.
Happy little crank pulley
We are going to run all of the tools you need at the bottom of the screen
Bob Ross still lives in our hearts
Best repair is to lease a Range Rover and give it back at the end of lease/warranty. These things are incredibly unreliable…..speaking from experience.
I'm not a land Rover mechanic just everything else but the ones I've seen all were horribly inoperable machines. I only saw two ever in years, and both were spewing coolant out, no other car just boom breaks like that
Good job Dave's Auto right on😅
It'll still be in the shop half the time. If you're going to lease a Range Rover, lease two.
Use the balancer to center the cover before its bolted down.
Doesn't always work on an assembled motor inside a vehicle. If it did, then GM wouldn't have a front cover alignment tool for their LS motors. I had one where I had to pry the front cover down to even get the alignment tool to fit, then torque everything before I removed the tool. I wouldn't have been able to get it in the right spot without the tool.
It is best not to use the seal for alignment because it is compliant and it might not position properly.
has dowels. cant.
Dave. Have you proven the casting and shaft are out of alignment or are you guessing? A seal wipe path is not proof.
This is the closest that the Land Rover will see "Off-Road".
The customer's first mistake was buying a land rover.
I think you're one of the best. Just by watching and listening i'm also a technician
Dave this is by far the best Automotive/shop channel on youtube. Knowledge on point and good for the every man too.
Wow, thanks!
Diagnosis: Land Rover
Recommendation: Cliff
Seen a few leaking like that and the new seal doesn't seal and now we know what the heck Land Rover tighten up $$$$$
Link to full video would have been good.
Yep, because I couldn't find the video in his channel....
Another defective Land Rover video.
th-cam.com/users/shortscaJEhicGfaI
@@TheAcceleratorMagazine th-cam.com/users/shortscaJEhicGfaI
th-cam.com/users/shortscaJEhicGfaI?si=DWt4UZTNKoI85RrC
Take the inner spring out of the seal unscrew it's ends clip out perhaps 2 rings out of the female end screw it back together and replace that spring inside the rubber portion of the seal. Now you've essentially tightened the seal. Old school fix for that type of deals taught to me by a fellow who was a master field mechanic on power line construction crews. Works on all seals of this type.
I was thinking exactly this old school repair, and then , here it is!
I didn’t even watch the video and you blew my mind. God, I wish there was more like you.
Get rid of it
Id try replacing the seal and installing a speedy sleeve.
Speedy sleeve worked for me! Disco 4.6
@@nickvogel7934 Yep..undersize and crooked seal.
When the shaft is off center?
There's no way any seal can fix that under the current condition.
I used to put the balancer on before torquing the timing cover. Worked most the time. But with dowls this makes it harder. Remover the dowls. Torked the oil pan bolts last.
With dowels it won't happen unless it was built wrong from factory.
@@rossbrumby1957 in theory it shouldn't happen in that case, but it does, which points to some design flaw...
Why not just take the spring outta the seal shorten it a little and reinstall. Have heard of old school hot rod guys doing this
But it’s a Land Rover… don’t bother, they just breakdown next week
The best of British engineering..
Pretty sure you mean American engineering……
@@mikea5923That comment, might be a little too subtle for most people.
@@stephenbrookes7268 I don’t think it’s actually as factual as I originally thought. 😂
@@mikea5923 When it comes to dodgy mechanics, there are cowboys. I think Landrover is Indian.
@@stephenbrookes7268 this is a 2004.
Thank the Lord that there are shops that actually like working on shitty vehicles.
Bless you my son.❤
I've never worked on an engine that you could just slip the vibration dampener right on, but your blue dye process certainly showed you what you needed to see.
Come to Lorain County Ohio. We need righteous mechanics.
Come on! BLOW MY SOCKS OFF WITH YOUR WISDOM! ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
The bigger cummins diesels are made like that. There is a blank spacer for want of a better word the same dimension as the seal. You get all of that sitting pretty before you tighten the timing cover up
I'd say the timing cover is somehow "off-center". Unless someone removed the 'locating-dowls/pins" I don't see how that would happen.
I've ran across this issue before (not on a Land Rover, but...)and what I did was loosened the oil pan and drop it down, because it was for the Used Car Department of Dealership that worked for at the time. Customer needed the car to go on vacation, we couldn't get a new front cover before the following Wednesday, it was Thursday and the customer wanted to leave Friday. We could get the oil pan gasket kit, so I dropped the pan, centered front cover on the installed crank pulley and snugged the cover up, and Torqued it into place, reinstalled the oil pan and no leaks.😎
On a Chevy LS engine you have to align the oil pan and the front and rear covers with special tools to be sure the crankshaft seals won't leak. The tools are simple to use and not expensive. I replaced the oil pan on the LS engine in my truck and changed all the seals. Thankfully, I have no leaks.
I knew land rovers were junk, but this is a whole new level of junk!
It’s a Land Rover. Are you surprised?
It is nice to hear a mechanic talk that knows his shit and shows you wth he is talking about ! Keep on teaching us !
I’ve fixed this problem. Get a seal with a smaller OD and epoxy it in place then put the balancer on. It will find its right place and the epoxy will harden up. Pull the balancer and epoxy the seal in. Fixed. No pulling the front cover.
I did a cross Atlantic trip in a sailboat and the forward gear leaked the fluid out halfway across. When we got to the first port they didn’t have the correct seal. One a mil smaller OD. I glued it in and it never leaked again. Got to where we were going and the new owner was happy that I fixed it. It still hasn’t leaked.
You have a whole career ahead of you making videos on fixing broke stuff on a land rover !
Please tell us what type of cars or trucks you are having this problem with.
Aftermarket parts for basically everything.
Had an 03 discovery. It's the worst car ever!
Lol he can change the center line of the crank in his machine shop love to see how you do that
That would be something to see....
Yes.... I thought the same thing when he said that 😂
Line boring
Lol, no shit. I'm gonna try to find a scrap engine at the shop and send it to him so we can see how that goes! Maybe I'm wrong, but I wouldn't trust that guy to put air in my tires, much less open the hood.
I love these demonstrations, thanks for taking the time to do so.
That guy knows his stuff .
No, he doesn't!
@@user-gj4ei6dc5q i work in a machine shop myself . What do you do that gives you the opinion he doesn't know what he is doing ?
Crazy work = crazy talk hahahahahahahaha hahahahahahahaha hahahahahahahaha
It’s a Land Rover that’s the problem!
Most timing covers have dowels. To make this fit you may have to actually remove the dowels and maybe oversize the bolt holes a bit. Then replace the seals and put the damper pulley on before tightening the cover down.
You too clean,you ain't fixing anything. You're gonna have your boy FIX IT!
My jaw hit the floor when dave used the phraseology of “crazy work” in the context he did. This is easily my favorite channel on ANY platform
You should send him some flowers and a box of chocolates, with a love letter.
I loved the part where he showed how he's gonna fix it.
Please never buy Land Rover folks 😂
A mechanic who’s actually a true engineer too.
No he's one Helluva technician. I know a few plumbers in my day that fancied themselves as engineers. Know your role and be good at it, like this gent is!
This man has a wealth of knowledge, its a privilege to listen to him.
The smart way to fix a Land Rover is to buy a Ford F150
I think you misspelled Toyota Tundra.
yea bro you don’t spell Toyota (Ford) or Tundra (F150).
Ford F150 will never touch a Toyota Tundra in reliability. Never.
@@zeropointzero A Toyota Tundra is a toy.
WTF you're talking about trading in pain in the left ass cheek for pain in the right ass cheek. Why don't you just get them both and take it right down the middle? 😂😂😂
@@ProleDaddy hey, if you like parting your wallet on a regular basis, stick to your F150. Better yet, buy a GMC.
Idk what he charges but it ain’t enough
You rock Sir I wish you were my mechanic
I can't believe I'm getting free learning from one of the best. Thank you and God bless you 🙏
Just find a seal that has a slightly smaller center diameter. But still fits the casing. Otherwise. It's little more complicated.
Exactly
Seals like this are standardized for OD and ID. Seal design doesn't work quite like you're imagining.
yea it doesn’t quit work like that. if it did trust me everyone would be doing it
you fix it by junking it and getting a Toyota
a race that compensates the
hole in the cover
You buy a seal spacer ,it fits over the blancer ,heat it a little slides right on put some grease on it slide it back on it will never leak again i used them in my time 15 to 18 times over 45yrs
Uk junk only Ford junk does this
I Love your channel. TY
Love this stuff⚙️⚙️⚙️🚀🚀🚀
Wheres the full video?
Don't buy a Landrover
Land Rover is junk
I love your videos man
Thanks, nobody else has explained this before.
Just put a new seal it will be ok .
A lot of engines from many different brands have crankshaft not perfectly centered
Hey this problem has been around since the first mopar LA engine cause no dowel pins to locate the timing cover....to this day I use the dampner to align the front seal on small block Mopar...then cinch the cover bolts down to set it and forget it...😂😂😂
Where is part 2?
I used to have that problem with automatic transmissions in the early days take the spring out of the seal cut a quarter of an inch off of it
Backlash the spring put the hands together and let It screw itself back in not saying that would fix this particular situation I have used that on torque converters and slip yokes.
Just saying not saying I would fix it
Dave your video's are great.
Glad you like them!
Link to solution?
He's not saying it, but it sounds like Land Rover tapped the front of the crank wrong?
So you are saying that every 4.6 has this problem? Sounds like something isn't right, bent shaft, missing bearing, bent bearing, this also probably means that all of the cylinders are that much off and might be burning oil or losing compression. Maybe the source of it is due to the transmission having the wrong alignment, or something. Is there a way for you to measure run out while it is turning to make sure the crankshaft is seated properly and flowing well? Is there a certain amount of distance they are supposed to be past the main bearing? Maybe that engine supn a bearing or two and they didn't make sure everything was ok.
I know that is something to watch for on rebuilds because those can shift or be too large of gaps. Maybe it is one of those 3v engines rebuilt?
Just loosen the bolts on the cover and nudge it over a bit and retighten the bolts. The bolt holes should have some amount of play to compensate that small amount of offset.
The answer, and everyone should have already known this since the 1980's, is to never buy a Landrover. Ever. They aren't just garbage, they are vastly overpriced garbage.
LS Swap
I have a set of alignment tools for the ls 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 for the front timing cover and the rear main seal I won't ever put one together again with out them they take out so much guess work and just make accurate alignment everytime.
I have a 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. It has about 130k miles and 7000 idle hours. The car runs great, doesn't leak or burn any fluids. The problem is it has a lifter tick. I replaced a couple of lifters and rockers, and the tick came back. Thinking it's more lifters and rockers. No scarring on the cam. Under the valve cover was spotless. No gunk. My dilemma is that I found a 4.6 2v out of a 2010 Town Car with 60k miles on it for $800. I can get a guy to put it in for me for $800. That's $1600 for basically a new engine. My question is am I better off replacing all these lifters and rockers or just getting the used engine. To my knowledge, there is no difference in the engine other than the oil cooler.
WRONG! Just loosen the cover, install the damper, slow spin to align the cover, retorque. BASIC first year knowledge. Actual directions from the FACTORY. There is already a tool that you can buy for 9 bucks that does the same as installing the damper for alignment.