Dog Still Pulling On Leash? IT'S TIME!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2023
- Leash Walking Training For Dogs That Pull - • Leash Walking Training...
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Do you have a dog that pulls CONSTANTLY? Leash Walking Training For Dogs That Are ALWAYS Pulling!
th-cam.com/video/y2yj2xtCo-k/w-d-xo.html
Leash training in the city is a nightmare, I did not think it would be this hard. Almost every leash training video I see assumes everyone just has access to wide open fields with hardly anyone around. What if you need your dog to walk on a leash just to get from A to B even when they are very young, because you don't own a car? You can't turn every few feet you need to walk into the perfect and patient training session... I never really see advice on that 😩 And don't get me started on random strangers approaching your puppy every few seconds, agitating the dog with high pitched voices or just reaching to pet it without asking. I was prepared for a lot of work when I got a puppy, but I was honestly not prepared for this whole leash ordeal.
I'm right with you. I organised my furniture so for weeks I did the first bit inside, under the command "walk" kept at it until he would walk beside me easily.
Then I got up at 4am were even in the city there's much less people. At first it seemed like he'd forgotten everything but after a few days he started to get it.
Instead of turning around when he pulls, just stop and stand, get him back ànd start again. It will seem like you are getting nowhere but keep at it. Good luck and keep at it cos it's worth it.
Try starting in a hallway in your building. That’s helped a lot for us too
I’m right there with you! Some would say I made a mistake and got 3 month old littermates. Needless to say it’s been extremely tough.
You can maybe practice in basement if you have one, or like someone else said if you are in a building maybe the hallways or in your own driveway. this is not the only training method that can be used to accomplish the same goal. You can put a few kibble in a dish and put it at end of driveway, your puppy is on leash and you are carrying higher value treats with you. You have a couple of seconds to make the association and reward so have your treats in your hand ready. Your puppy is on a 6ft leash, I would even try to make them sit before you even proceed. Every time your puppy pulls, you stop and stand like a tree. Your looking for the puppy to take a moment and realize he's not getting what he wants (to move forward) when he looks back at you and there is a smile on the leash (loose) "mark" and reward with the high value treats. He's only being rewarded when he chooses to look at you and leash loose. With a puppy, it may take a long time, he learns that he has to go through you to get to that bowl of kibble at the end of driveway. Each time he looks/loose leash, you start to move forward. Again, he starts pulling you repeat the same thing and stand like a tree (not moving forward until puppy makes eye contact with you and the leash has a bit of a smile) It may take awhile at first until the puppy gets the concept. And puppy's final reward is eventually reaching the dish of kibble. That's one method that might work if you are limited with space. It must be done with absolutely no distractions. you must do it at a time where your puppy can be successful and not be distracted by sound, smell, etc. Hope this helps.
prong collar
Oh my gosh this is the only thing that has worked for mine. He's a 1yr old shepherd mix and this method was a lifesaver. We've done 2 sessions like this and he's already amazing at it. I do wish we could do our long walks but it'll be nice when we've built up his manners for that length of time.
One of the best McCann sessions….clearly the girls were very receptive of the advice!
Interesting that in these training vids they always seem to have a dog that is near hand height Would love to see how you train a short pug/french bulldog cross. I have one who is 3 years old. just adopted from RSPCA and pulls for England!! he is not interested in treats when out on his walk - too interested in the world around him - even on familiar routes. Prey driven and dog reactive. he is bright and picks up training in the home without any effort or need to feed him treats - he loves being with you and interacting. When out, he is not interested in me but the world outside, and it is just head down and pull. He is much improved - but still a way to go with getting him to walk like all my previous dogs did. Will get there - but would love to see a vid with a more realistic situation! Seen too many where the dog is a nightmare. and suddenly transformed with a collar and a treat!
I am experienced, and have fostered for the RSPCA and dealt with dogs that dog reactive or reactive to noises, and got them to walk without any problems. But my current one is proving a challenge and think it is his bulldog personality. would not swap him though - and he is the cutest kindest lovingest boy going!!!! We will get there.
But please do vids with short dogs - it is sometimes more tricky to guide with the collar when the head is low down and at a different angle to your hand than a taller dog.
Thats great for food or toy motivated dogs but what to do when they arent triggered by toys or treats ?
Or overstimilated by the environment?
If environment is over stimulating you might need to take a step back and go to a quieter environment and work your way up I think
Playing is something they might have to learn depending on their character etc... Like they might not know it's fun until you make it fun if that makes sense?
Great points..I dog sat a 100 pound Bernese and when we'd walk, if he pulled one way Id just go the other way, rinse and repeat over and over. He got the process down in a day or so, plus I used the harness (easy walk?) that clips on the front of his chest, when he pulls I stop and it tugs him back towards me....again, one day and he became a changed walker!!!
Breaking the walks with play and other commands is such a great advice! I always wondered when you guys said short and sweet, if it meant ending the walk and training and going back home, but this makes a lot more sense to me.
I’ve been struggling with distance, duration and distractions. So outside of my house, focus is impecable, even if he gets distracted, it’s easy to regain his focus and correct without even pulling, just voice. But once we cross the street, that’s a whole different story. Although he only pulls a lot when he sees out of leash dogs that are near or little birds and cats, he keeps trying to switch sides, stops to sniff around very often, and the snacks don’t end up lasting for very long. I did make the mistake of allowing him to stop to get the snacks that fell, so that’s something I gotta fix!
I agree it's a great tip that I haven't really heard before
Thanks Instructor Steve! I will try this out!
Superb! So valuable for me!
Loved this video!
Most helpful video I've seen in a while
Taz is so cute!!
What a fantastic clip. 💞🐾
Great timing to publish for me on Eps and my journey.
Thank you very much for sharing at such a useful and informative clip in our time of seemingly endless tendancy with adolescent dogs' pulling towards and away from stimulating things.
We have the challenge of Eps being a brand new, fully qualified AD (so proud of her) who is young and still so enthusiastic (which I love and never want her to struggle with from my cue requests being too controlling).
Epsilon can get overwhelmed with smells, people, kids, animals and loving her independence.
Maintaining her ability of self determination and abilty to alert and support while she has to be following cues to the T in public and she has to be 'at work' 24/7 is a balance and is something most human support people may never manage to achieve. I am amazed how well she does while I am so clumsy.
I struggle with gentle and useful handler cue giving with pulling, generally towards exciting smells, welcoming kids, friendly people and animals (especially other dogs and creatures she is genetically breed to hunt).
ADs that can assist with my condition have to have the ability to be independent and override cues when necessary. It can be such a fine balance point.
Being consistent at following cues is not always her job and that is a challenge to find balance.
She has complex tasks (and often impresses me with her understanding).
One of the largest challenges is that since she came into my care her role requires her to be with me.
She does not ever stay at home alone and has been training, working and time off with me since we met.
We still have time for her to zoom, run, sniff, play, dig (which she does on cue for stress reduction and release) and, occasionally, play with friends and safe dog interaction.
I try my best to bring her joy.
She has made such a difference in my life.
Your helpful and useful clips are something I am grateful for.
I hope my cue giving and communication skills are becoming easier for Eps to read. I constantly worry I am being too rough and asking too much of this wonderful dog.
I appreciate (so much) what you freely and publicly share.
Do you have any clips on 24/7 AD dogs and their wellbeing needs?
Your clear, informative, positive and being kind is the easier way to learn clips make our journey of learning together grow.
Thank you very much
Eps and I still so much to learn....
💞🐾
Thank you for the tips! I'm really struggling with leash training because I'm trying to do too much too fast. I'll admit that. But long walks/"sniffaris" are how I've been getting my puppy exercise. He gets bored with the flirt pole and the soccer ball and all the other toys we have for him, but he still has so much pent-up energy, I don't know how to exercise him without walking. But he's not ready for leash walking yet. So we're both getting frustrated.
My second "walk" of the day is letting my dog run around a field or my yard to get rid of pent up energy. She is FEISTY!
My younger dog is not food motivated AT ALL. He’s spit out hot dog before because he saw a squirrel, ha ha. Me and my crazy kid are going to have to keep looking.
I have one of these. Crazy!
Rocky my 1 year old ausshole is pulling so much! He gets a lot of exercise and training and bond building but still 😢 right now it feels like my arm is being ripped off. We have gone to proffessional dog training with him but nothing has worked so far.
Ausshole, lol!! Love it…. I have a year and a half mutt and she pulls also… I just purchased a gentle lead that goes around her nose. I have yet to try it. Maybe use one and these methods together… I wish you luck with your ausshole! Thanks for the smile this morning 😊
@@bethmathews8465 It might work! I have a mixed puppy as well (boxer/border collie/alaskan husky). She lunges at everything that moves and screams and whines like she is being tortured when I stop her. It's been a nightmare, especially because I have a history of wrist and shoulder injuries. Bought a halti lead (kind of like gentle lead) and tried it last night. Instant difference! I'm just worried about when she goes crazy seeing a squirrel (don't want her to her hurt) since we didn't come across too many last night, but this could be the game changer.
Hi! Thank you so much for replying 😊 I have never seen those kind of leads here in Sweden. From what I heard from other dog owners, it is not allowed here in Sweden. I have to check. So happy it became better for you! I have a lot of nerve problems so it really increases the nerve pain for me. But I can really tell he is a teenager now. Such a different dog! Really trying to do my best.
@@musicartculture Mine was born a teenager it seems haha Never saw a dog protest that much. People pity me in the streets 😂 If the gentle lead is not allowed maybe you can try the front harnesses. A friend of mine says they worked well for her dogs. My puppy didn't care for it but she's a special case haha Good luck! Just hang on and do not feel guilty, you are doing your best!
My Aussie cross is 20 months old. Puppy training was OVERWHELMING (even though I'd been obsessively learning via TH-cam for a year before she came home) and I delayed starting real leash manners training because I was overwhelmed and chose to work intensely on Fetch and she was getting tons of daily exercise that way.
Got serious about leash training last October when she was 8 months old (including being 100% consistent about what was expected of her at the door/exiting the door) and it took us EIGHT MONTHS of daily training "walks" to get to a place where it wasn't nearly constant TRAINING versus any WALKING. At first it was all in the driveway, and then driveway + 10m of front road, then maybe on a good day we'd make it 15m... by July, we were finally *usually* making it 500m down the road before turning to go home (ie, plenty of redirecting, but not having to do, like, 3 min of redirection drills to get her focus back in order to do another 10m of loose leash walking).
All of a sudden in late July, it was like a door opened in her brain... just a crack... and after a week of doing the 1km round trip training walk with almost no redirection maneuvers required, I started adding more distance to the walk. Within about 10 days, we were doing 6kms round trip.
It's still *exhausting* and I still consider it to be a training walk, because I have to exercise hypervigilence to head off outbursts/meltdowns, which go from 0 - 100 with the "right" distraction at, like, 50m distance. But there will be 200m chunks of the walk where she's not putting any tension on the leash, where I don't have to give her *any* verbal guidance except occasional praising or telling her to Sit if a car comes towards us (I live in the country on an 80km speed limit road; we walk on the left side of the road, facing oncoming traffic). We still have situations where something about a vehicle sometimes provokes a massive meltdown from her, especially if the driver is being considerate and slows down as they approach us (sigh), so for safety, I have to be 100% consistent, never any exceptions, with putting her in a Sit if a car is coming towards us. Everything (everything) goes out the window if we run into someone else walking, or a bike, or if there's a dog anywhere, or if a squirrel runs across the road.
HOWEVER, even though it's still exhausting to maintain the hypervigilence and 100% consistency on the "redirection if any tension is put on the leash" and "sit when a car approaches," omg it's SO MUCH BETTER than it was even just a few months ago before that door in her brain opened a crack. I now additionally drive into the nearby village with her at least a couple of days a week to do walk training in a more unrelentingly exciting-for-her environment, and those training walks can last 45min (whereas when we started, she could only tolerate 5 - 10 min, with all of the "urban" proximity). They *are* TRAINING walks though, needing lots and lots and lots of redirection maneuvering.
Anyway.
I feel for you. You're on the right track. If you haven't implemented strict expectations for behaviour at the door/going out the door/leaving the driveway yet, I highly recommend that. Implementing it is what got me the first bits of traction with her after lots of frustration not even being able to make any progress in the driveway.
And I initially imagined it would be WAY too hard to teach her to stop being pushy in the house at the door/going out the door, so I tried just starting the work after I closed the door behind us and we were on the back deck... no results. It wasn't until I made her Sit inside, at the back door, while I put my shoes & jacket on, and got the poop bags, and put her leash on... then refused to open the door unless she held the Sit... then refused to go through the door unless she held the Sit... then refused to let her come through the door after me until I released her from the Sit... then kept making her go back inside and starting the exiting process over again if she burst outside and pulled on the leash before I could close the door behind us...
... it wasn't until I got THAT sequence of behaviours going, that she started to clue in that THAT'S also what we were working on in the driveway, and we started to make progress.
100% consistency. I've literally never (*never*) allowed her to be pushy about that again; if she forgets herself because of something exciting happening outside, I give her the "ahh ahh" correction and back inside the house we go to start over again.
But a year later... she will now sit inside the back door with the door open while I parade back and forth on the deck outside without holding her leash. It's not rock solid yet (if I left the back door I think she'd run out), but it's absolutely astonishing progress, to me.
So what happens when your 3pound dog is not food motivated?
Havent seen any video about the isse im having with my golden retriever so im hopi g someone could give me some tips. Basically whenever im not letting him go somewhere or pullimg him away from something thats on the ground/other animals and even leafs he starts to bite, jump on me and pulling the leash…. And when i touch him during that time he tries to bite me. Holdi g his collar just makes him even more mad. Ive tried redirecting with a toy or reward when he stops but it keeps happening on every walk thats longer than 10mins. Hes a lil over 6 months old. Thanks in advance
Hey @Ridddl3,
It sounds like you're dealing with a challenging situation with your golden retriever, especially during walks. At around 6 months old, they're still very much in their puppy phase, full of energy and curiosity. The behavior you're describing seems like a mix of frustration and overexcitement.
First off, it's great that you've tried redirecting with toys and rewards. Consistency is key here, so keep at it. However, since he's still reacting strongly, let's try a different approach.
When he starts biting or jumping, calmly stop the walk and stand still. Don't engage with him while he's in this state. Wait for him to calm down before you continue walking. This teaches him that calm behavior equals more walk time.
Also, consider working on impulse control exercises at home. These can be simple games like 'leave it' or 'wait', which help him learn self-control. Practicing these regularly can translate to better behavior during walks.
Lastly, ensure he's getting enough mental and physical exercise. Sometimes, this kind of behavior stems from pent-up energy. More playtime, puzzle toys, or even obedience training sessions can help burn off that extra energy.
Remember, patience is crucial. He's still learning, and with consistent, positive reinforcement, he'll get there. Keep up the good work!
These methods only work IF your dog is food driven , get a dog that's fussy and/or not that interested in food that way , and it won't work , and if you have a dog that refuses to eat outside his home , it won't work . None of these YT dog trainers show you how to do things with a dog that's NOT food driven , those that do use prong collars and the like which I personally do not condone.
They mention in a few videos that if your dog isn't food driven you should use toys instead. It changes the dynamics slightly as you need to give them a sec to enjoy the toy as reward but concept is the same 👍
Dry letter 96
This only works for food motivated dogs. Mine is not.
To anyone frustrated with their backslides, from someone who once had to "re-start" their adolescent service dog: please allow yourself to feel the reward within re-strengthening your dog's foundations! It is overwhelming and intimidating but so worth it and helps all of the other issues so much! It's difficult but only as exhausting as you let it be. Set a training routine and have fun ❤
thank you for this comment! i'm training my dog to become my service dog (very slowly) and sometimes I almost give up, but seeing i'm not the only one struggling helped!
My dog don't follow me when I put a leach on her.
Sorry but this method dont work with my jack russell he is not food driven and in any case working on the basis you have to reward treats all the time on a walk i would end up with an overweight dog
thats because your feeding your dog its meals and then expecting it to work for some more when they dont need it. try using your dogs food and feeding them bit by bit throughout the day everytime they do something you like rather than putting it down for them to eat. you shoud develop more engagement with the dog and they should start working for food much more
الفتاة الذكية 28
Delicious brother 34
Too much treats. The dog gets accustomed to get treats for every step it takes. And what if the dog gets full or you run out of treats? I hesitate. There has to be other methods other than over feeding the dog.
Lots of treats in the beginning. That’s okay. You’ll eventually wean them off of frequent treats. My dog only gets about 7 or 8 treats a walk now.
Weak teacher 87
That’s all nice and exciting? Isn’t that what needs to be addressed in the dog? What happens when the dog is full - not hungry anymore or at all? It doesn’t work at all with distractions! It’s a totally pointless video. It’s about time to end this paradigm isn’t it!?
The point is to find a distraction. Try a toy
@@_Schwartz I am a former service dog handler and trainer (7 year service, 2 malinois), and have been a trainer and adult educator for more then 14 years. Belive me, I know about the toys ;)
I agree. What is the answer?
@@SiimOja What would your method be?
@@glittery_cucumber socialy it’s known as balanced, but I feel, call and practice my methods as natural. So I call it all natural :)
Weak teacher 87