just wanted to let you know ive seen you're comments about painting the anodes, and we will fix that up next time we are out at the boat. We were following what was done before and apparently that was the wrong way. I thought all they needed was a clean connection between the metal they were protecting but after doing research its clear they'll do better without paint on them, easy fix!
hey dude used to work as an inspector for Oil and Gas industry. you want to check continuity between anodes and the alloy its protecting .. you can paint the inside/face touching the alloy of them no problem as long as you have continuity. if you paint the outside you will reduce the effectiveness of the cathodic protection. in the oil and gas industry we paint the face that touches the material on flush mounted anodes so when the anodes deteriorate/corrode the corrode from outside in. we had an issue where the would corrode from inside out and fall off.
Just to consolidate the things you should look at before putting it back in the water: -Don't paint moving parts (trim tab cylinders and bolts that hold the cylinder to the tab) -Don't paint anodes (you got one part right, the metal to metal contact) -If you have a cutlass bearing, don't dry spin it. Squirt some water or wd40 if you really need to turn it. It's the same as running an outboard dry, the rubbery/plastic bits will wear out much quicker or fail
I've never owned a boat or know anything about ocean going boats, but I guess you're not supposed to paint the zinks? Just thought I'd share my expertise on the subject. 👌
You know when this channel first started it's always been about experimenting, trying new things and being bold. Chris is always learning new things through all of his projects That's the way the show goes. Everyone's saying Chris knows nothing about boats, well it's his first boat there is a lot to learn cut him some slack. I'll probably get hate for this but who cares and it's his boat. He is happy with this project and I enjoy watching him learn.
Would it not be worth swapping out the cutlass bearings while the old girl is out of the water? From the look of her they probably haven’t been changed in a long while.
@@DaddyBear3000 All they have to do is wiggle the shaft to see how much play. Cutlass bearings can last for many years because when submerged the water acts as a lubricant and a coolant. So nothing really wears very quickly as a result.
Propellers in twin-engine boats are set to turn in opposite directions so that the torque created by each balances the other out. If both propellers turned in the same direction, you would feel it at the steering wheel--you would have to counter the torque by steering constantly in the same direction. Just wondering if you took this into consideration yet ( just keeping us on edge lol) ..marine engines one reverse rotates in twin screws.....
The reason there is resistance on the shafts is because the bearings in the P brackets are rubber and lubricated by the water So if you mix a little soap and water together and squirt it into the top end of the bearing the shafts will turn quite freely plus the shafts are heavy so dry and heavy = resistance. When afloat they are free
not only that. the shafts have been moved back from when they decoupled them from the engines so now the scaly part of the shaft is inside of the cutless bearing so will be very tight.
Those set screw are just there to lock the cutlass bearing in the strut. It has nothing to do with the shaft being tight. Those shafts don't free spin like an outboard prop does because of the rubber in the cutlass bearing and the stuffing tube were it goes through hull.
@@budd2018 Yes find a good offer on a 1965 Riva, then all you need to do is rebuild the keel plank, reframe it, replank it, replace the bottom sheets, build new floors, rebuild the engine, rewire the dashboard, rechrome abt. 100 pcs of hardware, change the upholstry, add 8 coats of varnish and a bit of bottom paint and you are all done. What can go wrong?
so who's gonna tell him that the sacrificial anodes actually should remain bare because paint would ruin the effect of the anodes in the first place? :) Also, you should remove the paint on the actual cylinders of the flaps, no ? cylinders are meant to be retracted/extracted and paint on them would be a bad idea? Correct me if im wrong here.
The seal in side the hydraulic ram will clean that soft paint as it's used. And I'm sure heal back track on the anodes to. Many people. All saying the same so don't worry about it
@@Truesoldier000 No, it's not fine. They need surface in contact with seawater. In fact, you need a certain amount of surface area depending on how much metal you are protecting.
The sacrificial anodes look beautiful with paint. I wonder why no one in the history of sacrificial anodes has ever painted them. You are a trail blazer.
I love the energy, the enthusiasm and the love of what they are doing! The small mistakes these guys makes are swiftly taken care of by the community! Who can guess that this episode is a perfect opportunity to learn about zinc anodes!
FIrst off, you need to be very careful when working with bottom paint. It is full of copper and other heavy metals that you do not want in your lungs. While huey is sanding this toxic paint into a nice fine powder that floats in the air, dewey and Lewey are running around with no mask on. I am not sure if an N95 mask is even appropriate with this stuff. Secondly, you do not paint anodes. They are supposed to be raw metal and they are intended to "sacrifice" themselves rather than the very expensive stainless parts they are near. Don't bother putting them on if they are painted. Thirdly, take those props off and have them serviced and polished. They look like they have a dent in the fins and are probably due for service. Don't listen to the haters on the LSX swap, just doooo it man. As long as you promise to videotape the moment when they go boom, or fail to get that giant pig out of the water, it will be the best money you have spent, I promise.
If I'm not mistaken they are already set to their highest position. If so, the paint shouldn't ever try to enter the cylinder. I could be wrong though.
Quick tip as a marine contractor, alway sand the old antifouling paint before applying the new one and on the prop and prop shaft coat them whit propspeed.
The anti foul paint (black underside ablative paint) is usually not applied and then left out of the water for an extended period of time. Not sure what you used, but I thought to leave a note - check with the manufacturer as to how long you can have it on the dry. Looking good though.
just had the same thought, i use Jotun antifoul and it says on the can that is should not be sitting dry for more than max 72 h before the boat is back in the water, wath this dude is doing only he knows...........
There are 1000 other car and boat restoration channels the reason I love B is for Build is the experimentation, trial and error and modification! Keep doing what you’re doing And I’m happily hangin on for the ride!
If it’s my first time owning a boat, I would appreciate all these comments and I know you do too. These guys all mean well, including about the diesels. In the end it’s your boat and you are entitled to what you do with it and that is what I appreciate most about you on your channel. You weigh things then make a decision and learn along the way. It makes for a very entertaining channel. Wish you well on this build.
Beautiful job on the painting and restoration. Can't WAIT for the complete re-power, and don't listen to all the negative comments about changing the powerplants. You do you. I don't think any of these folks paid for the boat, or the engines you're putting in. I think it'll be badass. I've had large boats (not 40' long) with gasoline engines, and as long as they're purpose-built marine engines, and you take care of them, you'll be just fine.
If you walked around spinning other boats’ propellers, did you not notice that no other boat had painted sacrificial anodes??? Because you’re not supposed to paint them!!!!
You have rendered the zincs useless by painting over them. They must be exposed to both the metal they are attached too as well as the water. If you seal them off from the water, they will not work.
Hey Chris. I love this project, and I love this Riva. I have been looking at this model for years. You are all about creating content and taking risk. You learn in the process. Good for you. This is a big undertaking and will be the source of a lot of great, educational content - for you as well as your followers. In the process you will gather new subs from the boating world. The more the merrier. Just follow through on this project. Do your LS swap, but do it properly. There is more to it than just swapping the engines. You have a lot of fiberglass and gelcoat work ahead of you. Maybe source some assistance from a boatyard and run the weight saving numbers by a naval architect. I´m super excited to see where this is going, as I have never seen an LS swap on a classic boat like this, except some purpose build wooden runabouts. Consider this: New engines => new gas tank => new props => new shaft bearings and seals => new cutlass bearings => new wiring => new electronics => new radar => new cockpit gelcoat = new upholstery => new bimini - and in the end you will have a fast and modern classic. It will not be cheap, but it will be fun!
Man, you got a new boat! Thanks for sharing this amazing rebuild for us. Everything about your videos is top notch AND you seem to be a very nice, down to earth guy. So refreshing!
Your rudders and your struts are bronze. On the Struts it appears that you have some electrolysis. You’ll need to sand them back to bare metal, prime and paint. Use a volt meter and check for continuity between the struts and the your shaft zinc (as I see you don’t have any hull zincs) to make sure they are grounded. Also remove that paint from the zincs. They will not work if painted. They actually have Do Not Paint casted into the zinc.
It is nice to see you looking after your gorgeous boat, I like it . My stepfather had a 30 foot cruiser and boats are bottomless money pits but they do give you a lot of enjoyment. Stay safe out there and enjoy yourselves
Thanks to all you guys over at B is for Build for continuing to put out watchable content. I love how some things are just trial and error, that's how we learn.. Keep building fellas.......
Everyone is soo negative I literally hate these comments recently 🙄 everyone is quick to tell him what he did wrong rather than suggest things beforehand to help him out, got to remember he's not a marine mechanic / boat person. I personally think it looks great! Love the content.
"rather than suggest things beforehand" People tried, they got labelled haters and he made a second video whining about why he's actually Super Smart and knows more than lifelong Machinists Mates and Marine Engineers.
For Those aluminum trim tabs you can use alodine before painting to protect from corrosion, it creates a thin corroded layer on the surface and that prevents further corrosion We use that on aircraft aluminum
I’ve been around boats for over 50 years and a rule I adopted decades ago was never have inboard gasoline engines. I’ve seen it end in grief too many times. My current boat has an inboard diesel and I wouldn’t have it any other way. There are also performance, maintenance and fuel economy benefits with diesel engines aside from the safety angle. The arguments for using LS engines are not convincing. I hope you won’t regret it.
Im just gonna say... thx for doing this, and I know you will enjoy this Boat for years. It is a very beautiful Yacht and im glad your refurbishing it for many more years of enjoyment..
I think it's funny that people tune in to watch the progress of the project, and then pick apart his approach. I don't see anyone else who is doing a large cruiser project. NW boaters rock!
The boat’s looking great! There just something about seeing something getting restored that brings joy. Makes me want to go and get my hands dirty in my own garage lol. Pretty interesting how different and unique oat maintenance is when compared to all things automobile, even tho there is still a little bit of overlap. We can’t know it all from the start, so keep on learning and taking the criticism, I’m learning a plenty from both you and “experts” in the comments xD.
The props look damaged, if so this might create “cavitation”. Meaning less water pushed and it will create air instead. And this will also mean loss of power.
Considering he got anti fouling on the shaft, i think cavitation in the propeller will be the last of his worry's. Plus he will get a lot more cavitation with those ls's in it. IDK what they will run at must must be at lest 3500, 4000 rpm?
You mention stiff shafts and the set screws. I think they hold the cutlass bearing into the shaft bracket. They are not connected to the shaft. Shafts generally are stiff to turn by hand.
Going around the yard touching other people's shafts, tisk tisk. Also never knew of the existence of the anodes and antifouling paint on boats so I guess you learn something new everyday. Thanks
@@andrrwprice7281 The fiberglass dont need anodes, but the metal parts need, like the rudder ,prop shaft ,trim tabs, water in and outlets , heatexchanger etc, like all the parts in conection with seawater, due to the chance of creep current from the electrical system, and the natural way metals form electric fields in saltwater, the amount of different types of metal that reacts with another the zink is the one that is the weakest and wil corrode away first,thats why you dont paint it and has to replase them when almost gone, to prewent the other metals from start corroding away to, like the raw water innlet, if this goes out the boat wil sink. this is why the anodes is called " sacrificial anodes"
So I never comment on vids and especially your vids but my experience blocking and dry docking large boats I feel whoever blocked your boat was a sailboat person because using tripods at that angle are dangerous on a powerboat and setting the pads on the flat fiberglass is the worst place because it’s the weakest spot and can hurt the hull. Use wood blocks to set on the chine and the strongest part of the boat. Sailboats have a heavy low mass so the lead makes the boat sturdy by pulling down and powerboats use the chine as the frame.
You can spray the bottom of the boat with a graphite coating as well to make it move faster thru the water. Though it needs anual maintenance. Those anodes are for protecting steel and iron not aluminum also dry storage is best for your oblative paint useful lifespan while Aluminum oxidates it turns back into powdered Boxite? Over a much slower process than iron and steel return to rust via oxidation and corrosion due to saline waters
@@zacharymartini9472 While that's mostly true, there are some new paints out there specifically made to be low-drag for props. Not technically needed, but some say there is a benefit. I mean, he didn't use that kind of paint though, so...
@@grandtheftautotune7715 yea he would have been better of with cummins or yanmar much better low end you're and better gas mileage also marine diesel is stupid cheap
The set screws on the struts are there to hold in and pin the cutlass bearings in place. It's normal for the shafts to be somewhat hard to spin out of the water and dry.
just finished painting my house and thought to myself: "I never want to see another roller or a paintbrush" BIFB: We're painting the boat! me: ok ill make an exception
you go man, looking forward to the series. Maybe one tip about the antifouling paint. Some of the antifouling paints need to go in contact with the water(boat in water) within 24/48 hours, maybe you could check with your paint manufacturer just to be sure. Im not sure if this applied to hard or soft antifouling, o well. Have a nice day Dont know why everybody needs to comment themselves about the anodes, minor mistake, happens to everybody dude.
The paint on the hull of the boat is a specialized marine paint with a copper or zinc based biocide to help keep barnacles and other subaquatic organisms off the hull. Thats why it sloughs off like that.
Gotta give the man credit for switching from Cars to boats. Definitely gonna be learning process. Also watched your explanation diesel video, hopefully the lsx goes well for you. Sucks that the Cummins failed.
Sacrificial anodes cannot perform their function unless they are exposed. Putting paint on an anode smothers it, rendering it useless. Never coat anodes with bottom paint, or anything else. And for the hydraulic strut you can paint the body but NEVER the piston
Great job guys, you guys are clearly on a learning curve and mistakes are part of that, So far so good! Boat is looking stunning and de videos are great content 😃 stay positive and keep on going
@@nickerbocker1382 they have to be exposed to the water to create an electrical current no current no sacrifice of the zinc. So no paint on them ever over or under
He said in the video that you need the anodes contacting bare metal, so no paint where it touches the boat, but you can paint the outer surface that faces into the water.
Never seen aluminum power trim tabs. All I know of are stainless and the good ones are 316 stainless. Which needs a primer (normally epoxy) for the bottom paint to stick to. Course I have only been around the water and boats for seven decades.
It's not a stabilizer it's a strut and what's inside is a custlass bearing and may be a really good idea to change them after 30 yrs. I would also remove the props, get them cleaned, balanced and coated.
basic rule, if the zinc anodes are not eaten away (at least a bit) they are not working and your boat is eaten. They should always be electrical connected between the metal parts of your boat you want to protect and the water. yes it has been mentioned over 50 times but I just wanted to explain in a bob the builder style. Old school style is to put vaseline on your anodes before you paint the boat, afterwards you easily clean the anodes.
The comment on what is the waterline. If you repowered not using the same type of engines you will have a new waterline. That will affect not only buoyancy but steerage. If you are lighter than originally engineered you will have problems with not enough rudder surface area depth. If you go out over a bar, you can get capsized or pitch-poled very easily. Seriously, Best of luck.
Check the prop seals whilst the boat is out of the water. They may not have been changed in years and the rubber may deteriorate whilst it's out of the water. Also could be the reason for the prop not spinning
Honest to God when I saw the thumbnail my first thought was "I bet this dude paints the anodes." These guys have a lot of fun stuff on their channel but why they don't at least ask around at the boatyard before just guessing how to do things is beyond me.
To defend him there is a lot to research if he doesn't know boats and that takes time. He thought he'd be safe just redoing what was already done. They were painted previously so someone else did it wrong before. I did stupid shit with cars when I was young and that's how you learn.
FYI support/ stablizer is called a strut. Red tint on strut is electrolysis may want to look into that. Am I right in assuming the white paint is made for props ie Prop-coat. Shafts should turn freely no transmission or shaft brakes so comparisons to other boats doesn't apply.
wsvn.com/news/local/13-injured-after-boat-explodes-docked-near-fort-lauderdale-marina/?fbclid=IwAR1S3H9oY0XX9o9MJa8G0CLZfgzPJYZdJs8VZSblG-3IrHtu0Qzn_hLGOsg ...good luck with those gas engines...
If those tabs are aluminum don't use copper based bottom paint on them without an epoxy barrier coat. Use a copper free bottom paint. The aluminum will corrode away more quickly if it's bonded to copper. Are your struts and rudders not bronze?
Conical ends of prop shafts are usually sacrificial anodes. Also, unless the trim tab hydraulic cylinders are already fully compressed you should remove the paint from the hydraulic shaft or it will interfere with the hydraulic seal
itrh ethe 2 on teh shaft no need, the prop, shaft and prop nut are all at the same potential. Not that those props are going to be any good with the anchors he's chosen for engines anyway.
just a simple fix for the wear and tear from the fender rubs...get some signage wrap or the same stuff they use to screen cars,it comes in every color an will protect future uses. you could also get creative and add stripes if thats your thing and if you dont like it take it off.
Gonna need to check the shaft alignment and probably swap out those cutlass bearings. Those screws hold in the bearing itself. Should have some resistance but not a ton.
ok a lot of comments by boaters on zinks. The mystery of the tight shaft is IMHO due to the packing in the hull penetration stuffing box there is friction there to prevent water leaking in through the penetration. After years of tightening to stop leakage it is maybe shot. I would take the time to repack the penetration while in drydock especially if you have no history on maintenance of previous owners. that packing is lubricated by slight leakage of water. no leakage = no lubrication and likely lots of friction and heat generation some stuffing boxes actually have water connections. The exterior support bearing is held in a support strut and is normally called a Cutlass bearing Lubricated with water also. Good call on the set screws
As for the replacement LS engines, ask the builders if they can focus on bringing the power & torque curves towards the lower RPMs as much as possible. Maybe small turbos and a cam to suit. You’ll be running for extended periods at a fixed RPM, so you’ll want that a fair bit lower than normal automotive RPM ranges. And of course, stronger valve springs, etc. I think a big challenge will be the exhausts. Typically water cooled in boats to keep the engine bays cool, and often have the sea water from coolant system introduced in there. Finally, lambda sensors are incredibly sensitive to moisture, so any ‘splash back’ can wreck the sensor and see the engine go into base/limp running mode. You can get EFI adaptor kits for carb marine engines, but they’re largely junk because of the retro-fitting of the lambda sensors, and typically last a few hours. Good luck!
Hydraulic rams on the trim tabs. Since the hoses are missing there's probably water in the rams themselves. Recommend taking them off and either getting a rebuild kit or have them rebuilt. Test the pump and the rest of the system and do what's needed. Those tabs and rams take a beating underway and deserve some proper care.
Boat looks really good now. The right propellor could probably do with being replaced, has some chunks out of it. Maybe you can get them repaired. I guess its not too bad, and probably serviceable for a few more years.
Hell no lol...all through hull devices always need maintenance...new boat may be ok, but with older hulls and lamination separations you’re asking for haul outs due to leaks.
Looks great and not painting the zincs yes...:).. Fun fact there is a sacrificial anode in your water heater at home. Look on top and you will find a blank bung which if you remove will pull out a long rod of either aluminium or zinc. Keep that clean (remove calcium in hard water areas) and your expensive water heater will last much longer.
Those set screws just hold the Cutlass bearing in the prop strut. with the shafts pushed aft the way they are ,you probably have a corroded section of prop shaft in contact with the Cutlass bearing. push your shafts forward spray a little water on them for lubrication and see if they spin better.
just wanted to let you know ive seen you're comments about painting the anodes, and we will fix that up next time we are out at the boat. We were following what was done before and apparently that was the wrong way. I thought all they needed was a clean connection between the metal they were protecting but after doing research its clear they'll do better without paint on them, easy fix!
Glad you guys caught that! Beautiful job restoring the boat!
🤣🤣 literally when you said your painting them I went "oh shit buddy noooooooo"
If you ever need a hand or liquid help I'm in Camas
Good call. And I believe they need to be magnesium for fresh water.
hey dude used to work as an inspector for Oil and Gas industry. you want to check continuity between anodes and the alloy its protecting .. you can paint the inside/face touching the alloy of them no problem as long as you have continuity. if you paint the outside you will reduce the effectiveness of the cathodic protection. in the oil and gas industry we paint the face that touches the material on flush mounted anodes so when the anodes deteriorate/corrode the corrode from outside in. we had an issue where the would corrode from inside out and fall off.
Just to consolidate the things you should look at before putting it back in the water:
-Don't paint moving parts (trim tab cylinders and bolts that hold the cylinder to the tab)
-Don't paint anodes (you got one part right, the metal to metal contact)
-If you have a cutlass bearing, don't dry spin it. Squirt some water or wd40 if you really need to turn it. It's the same as running an outboard dry, the rubbery/plastic bits will wear out much quicker or fail
This guy yachts ^^^^
Yup!! Don’t spin dry props too much. They cutlass bearings have little water channels that let it move smoothly when in the water.
He should be using propspeed only on those metal surfaces
I stopped counting at 30 comments recommending not painting the zincs. Probably need at least 50 more.
Right... wonder what % of them had zero knowledge of anodes prior to reading the comments as well- assuming a large sum
Agreed. I'm throwing my hat into the ring.
"Don't paint the anodes".
:)
🤣🤣🤣
No amount of comments will stop these guys from doing ignorant shit.
I've never owned a boat or know anything about ocean going boats, but I guess you're not supposed to paint the zinks? Just thought I'd share my expertise on the subject. 👌
You know when this channel first started it's always been about experimenting, trying new things and being bold. Chris is always learning new things through all of his projects That's the way the show goes. Everyone's saying Chris knows nothing about boats, well it's his first boat there is a lot to learn cut him some slack.
I'll probably get hate for this but who cares and it's his boat. He is happy with this project and I enjoy watching him learn.
Dont touch the set screws. they are holding your cutlass bearings in place and stopping them from spinning with the shaft.
Is that right? I've have only seen bearings pressed into housings...
I thought i mentioned it in the video but we just tested them, and agreed thats what they were there to do, and set them back the way they were
Would it not be worth swapping out the cutlass bearings while the old girl is out of the water? From the look of her they probably haven’t been changed in a long while.
@@DaddyBear3000 All they have to do is wiggle the shaft to see how much play. Cutlass bearings can last for many years because when submerged the water acts as a lubricant and a coolant. So nothing really wears very quickly as a result.
Propellers in twin-engine boats are set to turn in opposite directions so that the torque created by each balances the other out. If both propellers turned in the same direction, you would feel it at the steering wheel--you would have to counter the torque by steering constantly in the same direction. Just wondering if you took this into consideration yet ( just keeping us on edge lol) ..marine engines one reverse rotates in twin screws.....
Nah man...he is going to run one trans in reverse and the other in forward!!!
@@charlieodom9107 JEAN-E-US! ....lmao
The reason there is resistance on the shafts is because the bearings in the P brackets are rubber and lubricated by the water So if you mix a little soap and water together and squirt it into the top end of the bearing the shafts will turn quite freely plus the shafts are heavy so dry and heavy = resistance. When afloat they are free
not only that. the shafts have been moved back from when they decoupled them from the engines so now the scaly part of the shaft is inside of the cutless bearing so will be very tight.
Dry and heavy sounds nice
@@falosny kinda like a new metal band lol
@@falosny i prefer dry and hard
thats what we figured after learning every other boat is the same way
Those set screw are just there to lock the cutlass bearing in the strut. It has nothing to do with the shaft being tight. Those shafts don't free spin like an outboard prop does because of the rubber in the cutlass bearing and the stuffing tube were it goes through hull.
All that shaft and stuffing talk has me wanting to buy a Riva.
This right here. Don't loosen those set screws.
@@budd2018 Yes find a good offer on a 1965 Riva, then all you need to do is rebuild the keel plank, reframe it, replank it, replace the bottom sheets, build new floors, rebuild the engine, rewire the dashboard, rechrome abt. 100 pcs of hardware, change the upholstry, add 8 coats of varnish and a bit of bottom paint and you are all done. What can go wrong?
Oh - and replace the stuffing box off course ;-)
@@belledetector ill start with this 😉
so who's gonna tell him that the sacrificial anodes actually should remain bare because paint would ruin the effect of the anodes in the first place? :)
Also, you should remove the paint on the actual cylinders of the flaps, no ? cylinders are meant to be retracted/extracted and paint on them would be a bad idea? Correct me if im wrong here.
bump
I know.. I was thinking that's one more thing for the learning curve.
The seal in side the hydraulic ram will clean that soft paint as it's used. And I'm sure heal back track on the anodes to. Many people. All saying the same so don't worry about it
@@philtrysstrongman isn't the paint able to damage the gaskets when retracting?
@@philtrysstrongman But the paint have a potential to damage the gaskets tho, no ?
Those are set screws that hold in the cutlass bearings. They don’t hold the prop shaft from spinning.
came here to say exactly this. they should probably be replaced.
He knows so little about boats it’s funny
David Brodeur well I mean it’s his first boat relax everybody starts somewhere
came here to do the same thing!! Ugh this is hard to watch.
Ugh. Don't paint the zincs anywhere. The surface needs to be electrically bonded to the metal it's protecting as well as the seawater.
Fuck the sea water
But yes protect the soon to be fule guzzling boat
He painted OVER them. not between them. It's fine.
@@Truesoldier000 wow you're really doubling down on being wrong huh
@@Truesoldier000 No, it's not fine. They need surface in contact with seawater. In fact, you need a certain amount of surface area depending on how much metal you are protecting.
You are all missing the point! This way the zines will last forever!! Got to think outside the box guys.
One question: Did you tap the hull prior to painting? Tapping helps you find any places where the fiberglass is separating.
Nah mate I always separate before I tap that aft.
Of course he didn't.
@@reginaldbowls7180 Not enough attention is surrounding this comment.
He says it needs to be repainted every year or two, probably not a big deal
Things probably rotten af
The sacrificial anodes look beautiful with paint. I wonder why no one in the history of sacrificial anodes has ever painted them. You are a trail blazer.
Looks super fast now! Make sure to strip the paint of those sacrificial anodes or get new ones, they will not work unless they are exposed.
I love the energy, the enthusiasm and the love of what they are doing! The small mistakes these guys makes are swiftly taken care of by the community! Who can guess that this episode is a perfect opportunity to learn about zinc anodes!
FIrst off, you need to be very careful when working with bottom paint. It is full of copper and other heavy metals that you do not want in your lungs. While huey is sanding this toxic paint into a nice fine powder that floats in the air, dewey and Lewey are running around with no mask on. I am not sure if an N95 mask is even appropriate with this stuff. Secondly, you do not paint anodes. They are supposed to be raw metal and they are intended to "sacrifice" themselves rather than the very expensive stainless parts they are near. Don't bother putting them on if they are painted. Thirdly, take those props off and have them serviced and polished. They look like they have a dent in the fins and are probably due for service. Don't listen to the haters on the LSX swap, just doooo it man. As long as you promise to videotape the moment when they go boom, or fail to get that giant pig out of the water, it will be the best money you have spent, I promise.
Don't paint the struts shafts, they are hydraulic cylinders. You don't paint the shiny part of hydraulic cyclinders
I’m not exactly sure but u think they were compressed so they didn’t paint the shinny part
It is probably all the retracted, painting what is showing will not hurt it....
They are all the way compressed. We painted the areas that are always exposed.
If I'm not mistaken they are already set to their highest position. If so, the paint shouldn't ever try to enter the cylinder. I could be wrong though.
Looks like they are retracted fully (or close to it) so shouldn't effect them.
Quick tip as a marine contractor, alway sand the old antifouling paint before applying the new one and on the prop and prop shaft coat them whit propspeed.
The anti foul paint (black underside ablative paint) is usually not applied and then left out of the water for an extended period of time. Not sure what you used, but I thought to leave a note - check with the manufacturer as to how long you can have it on the dry. Looking good though.
just had the same thought, i use Jotun antifoul and it says on the can that is should not be sitting dry for more than max 72 h before the boat is back in the water, wath this dude is doing only he knows...........
There are 1000 other car and boat restoration channels the reason I love B is for Build is the experimentation, trial and error and modification! Keep doing what you’re doing And I’m happily hangin on for the ride!
This was so satisfying to watch. That boat looked good before all this work. Now it looks absolutely amazing!! I love this channel!
If it’s my first time owning a boat, I would appreciate all these comments and I know you do too. These guys all mean well, including about the diesels. In the end it’s your boat and you are entitled to what you do with it and that is what I appreciate most about you on your channel. You weigh things then make a decision and learn along the way. It makes for a very entertaining channel. Wish you well on this build.
Never owned a boat, but stayed in a holiday express. Something something don't paint anodes
1
Only paint anodes if you want them insulated.
@@ja60123 Yes. I agree. Now the zinc is no way to be ionized to give electrons to metal, so if the paint comes off the metal will be corroded.
Lol, good one.
you painted your anodes!!! WTF???
Beautiful job on the painting and restoration. Can't WAIT for the complete re-power, and don't listen to all the negative comments about changing the powerplants. You do you. I don't think any of these folks paid for the boat, or the engines you're putting in. I think it'll be badass. I've had large boats (not 40' long) with gasoline engines, and as long as they're purpose-built marine engines, and you take care of them, you'll be just fine.
If you walked around spinning other boats’ propellers, did you not notice that no other boat had painted sacrificial anodes??? Because you’re not supposed to paint them!!!!
Lmao 😂
@@ccmi2081 lol true
@@ccmi2081 maybe if he didn't say it like dick that never did anything wrong.
Liberals who think their opinion is more important than fact love to label those who don't agree with them.
Prop shaft Strut,,,,, The set screws. Hold the prop shaft bushings from spinning, Really a nice boat, wish I had it
You have rendered the zincs useless by painting over them. They must be exposed to both the metal they are attached too as well as the water. If you seal them off from the water, they will not work.
Was thinking that paint would act as an electrical insulator. 20 minute fix though, and they have a lot of recent experience with that wire wheel.
They will work, but from the inside out meaning they will lose contact to the aluminium after time
Hey Chris. I love this project, and I love this Riva. I have been looking at this model for years. You are all about creating content and taking risk. You learn in the process. Good for you. This is a big undertaking and will be the source of a lot of great, educational content - for you as well as your followers. In the process you will gather new subs from the boating world. The more the merrier. Just follow through on this project. Do your LS swap, but do it properly. There is more to it than just swapping the engines. You have a lot of fiberglass and gelcoat work ahead of you. Maybe source some assistance from a boatyard and run the weight saving numbers by a naval architect. I´m super excited to see where this is going, as I have never seen an LS swap on a classic boat like this, except some purpose build wooden runabouts.
Consider this: New engines => new gas tank => new props => new shaft bearings and seals => new cutlass bearings => new wiring => new electronics => new radar => new cockpit gelcoat = new upholstery => new bimini - and in the end you will have a fast and modern classic. It will not be cheap, but it will be fun!
Oscar always does an excellent job. You're lucky to have Oscar.
B is for “Oscar” built it
Man, you got a new boat! Thanks for sharing this amazing rebuild for us.
Everything about your videos is top notch AND you seem to be a very nice, down to earth guy. So refreshing!
Your rudders and your struts are bronze. On the Struts it appears that you have some electrolysis. You’ll need to sand them back to bare metal, prime and paint. Use a volt meter and check for continuity between the struts and the your shaft zinc (as I see you don’t have any hull zincs) to make sure they are grounded.
Also remove that paint from the zincs. They will not work if painted. They actually have Do Not Paint casted into the zinc.
It is nice to see you looking after your gorgeous boat, I like it . My stepfather had a 30 foot cruiser and boats are bottomless money pits but they do give you a lot of enjoyment. Stay safe out there and enjoy yourselves
Thanks to all you guys over at B is for Build for continuing to put out watchable content. I love how some things are just trial and error, that's how we learn.. Keep building fellas.......
Everyone is soo negative I literally hate these comments recently 🙄 everyone is quick to tell him what he did wrong rather than suggest things beforehand to help him out, got to remember he's not a marine mechanic / boat person. I personally think it looks great! Love the content.
"rather than suggest things beforehand" People tried, they got labelled haters and he made a second video whining about why he's actually Super Smart and knows more than lifelong Machinists Mates and Marine Engineers.
How do you comment on a video before it exists?
I was definitely on team diesel but after watching your explination on your other channel, I totally get it. Excited for the build!
For Those aluminum trim tabs you can use alodine before painting to protect from corrosion, it creates a thin corroded layer on the surface and that prevents further corrosion
We use that on aircraft aluminum
I’ve been around boats for over 50 years and a rule I adopted decades ago was never have inboard gasoline engines. I’ve seen it end in grief too many times. My current boat has an inboard diesel and I wouldn’t have it any other way. There are also performance, maintenance and fuel economy benefits with diesel engines aside from the safety angle. The arguments for using LS engines are not convincing. I hope you won’t regret it.
Im just gonna say... thx for doing this, and I know you will enjoy this Boat for years. It is a very beautiful Yacht and im glad your refurbishing it for many more years of enjoyment..
15:01 Do not paint the front part of the propeller, that is also an anode. If you put pain on it, it does not function.
Those rudders getting cleaned.... SOOOO SATISFYING.
everyone is talking about zinc, while I came here to comment on Chris admitting he goes around touching other peoples props. 😂
wonder what they looked like skulking around the docks spinning other boats props. hahaha
@@euroker05 Bunch of scallywags :D
Correction: goes around twisting their shafts 😂
@@cghoward70 you may, perhaps touch the prop, but do not twist the shaft!
I think it's funny that people tune in to watch the progress of the project, and then pick apart his approach. I don't see anyone else who is doing a large cruiser project. NW boaters rock!
On this edition of B is for Bad Boat Repair we will be painting anodes and hydraulic shafts! Come on guys...google is your friend!
The boat’s looking great! There just something about seeing something getting restored that brings joy. Makes me want to go and get my hands dirty in my own garage lol. Pretty interesting how different and unique oat maintenance is when compared to all things automobile, even tho there is still a little bit of overlap. We can’t know it all from the start, so keep on learning and taking the criticism, I’m learning a plenty from both you and “experts” in the comments xD.
The props look damaged, if so this might create “cavitation”. Meaning less water pushed and it will create air instead. And this will also mean loss of power.
Considering he got anti fouling on the shaft, i think cavitation in the propeller will be the last of his worry's. Plus he will get a lot more cavitation with those ls's in it. IDK what they will run at must must be at lest 3500, 4000 rpm?
@@archiescriven6178 LS Marine engines max out at 5000+. He will need a different transmission and props to run the gassers.
You mention stiff shafts and the set screws. I think they hold the cutlass bearing into the shaft bracket. They are not connected to the shaft. Shafts generally are stiff to turn by hand.
There should be zinc on the tip of the prop over the nuts.
I've seen that on outdrives but i can't recall seeing that on inboards. I know mine don't have them.
That's what the zincs on the shaft are for. Props and shaft are on the same potential.
Going around the yard touching other people's shafts, tisk tisk. Also never knew of the existence of the anodes and antifouling paint on boats so I guess you learn something new everyday. Thanks
Also damn that looks sleek af
I never post here, but dont paint the anodes!
U have to swap those,..
@@mikaojjee I know nothing about boats so have to ask why a fibreglass boat needs anodes. Not being agressive. Just asking! :)
Ooops!! Sorry guys. I have restarted the vid and now know the answer. Every day is a school day!! :)
@@andrrwprice7281 just the metal pieces on the boat use them
@@andrrwprice7281 The fiberglass dont need anodes, but the metal parts need, like the rudder ,prop shaft ,trim tabs, water in and outlets , heatexchanger etc, like all the parts in conection with seawater, due to the chance of creep current from the electrical system, and the natural way metals form electric fields in saltwater, the amount of different types of metal that reacts with another the zink is the one that is the weakest and wil corrode away first,thats why you dont paint it and has to replase them when almost gone, to prewent the other metals from start corroding away to, like the raw water innlet, if this goes out the boat wil sink. this is why the anodes is called " sacrificial anodes"
Any news on the boat or when you guys will continue to work on the boat? Can't wait!
So I never comment on vids and especially your vids but my experience blocking and dry docking large boats I feel whoever blocked your boat was a sailboat person because using tripods at that angle are dangerous on a powerboat and setting the pads on the flat fiberglass is the worst place because it’s the weakest spot and can hurt the hull. Use wood blocks to set on the chine and the strongest part of the boat. Sailboats have a heavy low mass so the lead makes the boat sturdy by pulling down and powerboats use the chine as the frame.
they don't appear to be chained together from side to side either to keep them from slipping out.
You can spray the bottom of the boat with a graphite coating as well to make it move faster thru the water. Though it needs anual maintenance. Those anodes are for protecting steel and iron not aluminum also dry storage is best for your oblative paint useful lifespan while Aluminum oxidates it turns back into powdered Boxite? Over a much slower process than iron and steel return to rust via oxidation and corrosion due to saline waters
Should have used zinc phosphate primer. Its marine based paint designed for items submerged in water
Looks sooo much better - well done! Nice to see someone else painting instead of myself. Fresh water sure helps keep your boat clean compared to mine.
Strangely - I'm learning more from the comments then the content??
Looks like Oscar does all the 'heavy lifting' & hard work - well done Oscar !
The zinc's aren't supposed to be painted they need to be bare for them to work
Also not rly supposed to paint the props
@@zacharymartini9472 While that's mostly true, there are some new paints out there specifically made to be low-drag for props. Not technically needed, but some say there is a benefit. I mean, he didn't use that kind of paint though, so...
@@grandtheftautotune7715 wow butthurt
@@grandtheftautotune7715 yea he would have been better of with cummins or yanmar much better low end you're and better gas mileage also marine diesel is stupid cheap
The set screws on the struts are there to hold in and pin the cutlass bearings in place.
It's normal for the shafts to be somewhat hard to spin out of the water and dry.
just finished painting my house and thought to myself: "I never want to see another roller or a paintbrush"
BIFB: We're painting the boat!
me: ok ill make an exception
Buy a cheap sprayer the 275bucks has saved me so much effort i could have paid a thousand and still be far a head. Houses decks barns garage. :)
Same same 🤣
you go man, looking forward to the series.
Maybe one tip about the antifouling paint. Some of the antifouling paints need to go in contact with the water(boat in water) within 24/48 hours, maybe you could check with your paint manufacturer just to be sure. Im not sure if this applied to hard or soft antifouling, o well. Have a nice day
Dont know why everybody needs to comment themselves about the anodes, minor mistake, happens to everybody dude.
Why did you paint the zinc? Isn't it supposed to be exposed for the chemical reaction to take place?
Also, the hydraulic rams?
the rams will clean themselves but I do agree that he did things wrong
@@samleen They addressed it on other comments that they were fully retracted so no biggie.
I didn't read the comments before.
The paint on the hull of the boat is a specialized marine paint with a copper or zinc based biocide to help keep barnacles and other subaquatic organisms off the hull. Thats why it sloughs off like that.
Don’t think you should pant the anode...
Correct, you are not supposed to paint the zincs....
If you’re keeping those props take them off and sharpen the edges. That will help with the cavitation from the prop shredding the edges.
The undersides of the trim tabs didn't get much love before painting did they.
Half job Harry!
Gotta give the man credit for switching from Cars to boats. Definitely gonna be learning process. Also watched your explanation diesel video, hopefully the lsx goes well for you. Sucks that the Cummins failed.
Sacrificial anodes cannot perform their function unless they are exposed. Putting paint on an anode smothers it, rendering it useless. Never coat anodes with bottom paint, or anything else.
And for the hydraulic strut you can paint the body but NEVER the piston
Great job guys, you guys are clearly on a learning curve and mistakes are part of that, So far so good! Boat is looking stunning and de videos are great content 😃 stay positive and keep on going
At one point chris: "you don't want to paint the anodes", also chris: covering the anodes with paint... Uhhhh, what happened?
@@nickerbocker1382 they have to be exposed to the water to create an electrical current no current no sacrifice of the zinc. So no paint on them ever over or under
He specifically said you can paint OVER them but not BETWEEN the anode and the metal. check your ears
@@Truesoldier000 so what he's wrong!!
@@Truesoldier000 You cannot paint over them. EVER. They need to be super clean before it goes in the water. The guy knows nothing about boats.
He said in the video that you need the anodes contacting bare metal, so no paint where it touches the boat, but you can paint the outer surface that faces into the water.
Never seen aluminum power trim tabs. All I know of are stainless and the good ones are 316 stainless. Which needs a primer (normally epoxy) for the bottom paint to stick to. Course I have only been around the water and boats for seven decades.
What about where the supports are? There will be little squares unpainted.
9:53
I was wondering if someone else would comment this. My OCD is flipping out.
@@TheSuspectator Good Catch.
Yes when the boat is put back on the slings to be refloated a quick cover of those areas is how it's done
My missus fell in love with ur boat interior! Looks a comfy warm place to be☺ looks like a floating motel..
Definitely spend a lot of time on the props that won't work with your repower.
Don't forget a second coat of paint on the zinc either. Id hate to see those get ruined by all that corrosive sea water.
@@budd2018 FML!!! Now he will probably do that too!!!
It's not a stabilizer it's a strut and what's inside is a custlass bearing and may be a really good idea to change them after 30 yrs. I would also remove the props, get them cleaned, balanced and coated.
I think i would have spent a few more hours sanding the old paint before painting. It really helps with speed and fuel use!
Keep the great content going Chris. We love the choice for the engines. Plenty of boats have that configuration and are reliable boats.
Right! Plenty of boats with half the weight and 1/3 the wetted surface.
The water line may change with the lighter lS engines🤔
Gents sorry I didn’t see your comments before I posted. You are spot on.
@Lassi Kinnunen Naaa, just a very large beer cooler - LoL
basic rule, if the zinc anodes are not eaten away (at least a bit) they are not working and your boat is eaten. They should always be electrical connected between the metal parts of your boat you want to protect and the water. yes it has been mentioned over 50 times but I just wanted to explain in a bob the builder style. Old school style is to put vaseline on your anodes before you paint the boat, afterwards you easily clean the anodes.
Or just leave the old anodes on the boat and when you have finished painting the boat replace the old anodes with the new anodes.
The comment on what is the waterline. If you repowered not using the same type of engines you will have a new waterline. That will affect not only buoyancy but steerage. If you are lighter than originally engineered you will have problems with not enough rudder surface area depth. If you go out over a bar, you can get capsized or pitch-poled very easily. Seriously, Best of luck.
And thats why he talked about adding lead weights etc on his second channel video
Check the prop seals whilst the boat is out of the water. They may not have been changed in years and the rubber may deteriorate whilst it's out of the water. Also could be the reason for the prop not spinning
Honest to God when I saw the thumbnail my first thought was "I bet this dude paints the anodes." These guys have a lot of fun stuff on their channel but why they don't at least ask around at the boatyard before just guessing how to do things is beyond me.
To defend him there is a lot to research if he doesn't know boats and that takes time. He thought he'd be safe just redoing what was already done. They were painted previously so someone else did it wrong before. I did stupid shit with cars when I was young and that's how you learn.
@@Captaindan7141 they weren't painted previously
FYI support/ stablizer is called a strut. Red tint on strut is electrolysis may want to look into that. Am I right in assuming the white paint is made for props ie Prop-coat. Shafts should turn freely no transmission or shaft brakes so comparisons to other boats doesn't apply.
This guy is a land lubber, no real boater would paint the sinks or replace Diesel engines with gas engines.
cut the guy some slack. I'm sure he knows now and he's relatively new to boating.
wsvn.com/news/local/13-injured-after-boat-explodes-docked-near-fort-lauderdale-marina/?fbclid=IwAR1S3H9oY0XX9o9MJa8G0CLZfgzPJYZdJs8VZSblG-3IrHtu0Qzn_hLGOsg ...good luck with those gas engines...
If those tabs are aluminum don't use copper based bottom paint on them without an epoxy barrier coat. Use a copper free bottom paint.
The aluminum will corrode away more quickly if it's bonded to copper.
Are your struts and rudders not bronze?
Yes paint everything especially the Anodes I like how he always listens to me 😜😏
Conical ends of prop shafts are usually sacrificial anodes. Also, unless the trim tab hydraulic cylinders are already fully compressed you should remove the paint from the hydraulic shaft or it will interfere with the hydraulic seal
When are you going to have the prop blade repaired and have them balanced? Is there a Zinc on the end of the prop shaft?
itrh ethe 2 on teh shaft no need, the prop, shaft and prop nut are all at the same potential. Not that those props are going to be any good with the anchors he's chosen for engines anyway.
just a simple fix for the wear and tear from the fender rubs...get some signage wrap or the same stuff they use to screen cars,it comes in every color an will protect future uses. you could also get creative and add stripes if thats your thing and if you dont like it take it off.
BIG MISTAKE !!!!!!!!! You must not paint the zincs as they will NOT work if painted !!
Gonna need to check the shaft alignment and probably swap out those cutlass bearings. Those screws hold in the bearing itself. Should have some resistance but not a ton.
The set screws hold cutlass bearings. While the boat is out and your doing all this work you should replace them.
Yes!
Also the through hulls in my opinion.
Why!! They are so nice and tight, replace for fun?
ok a lot of comments by boaters on zinks. The mystery of the tight shaft is IMHO due to the packing in the hull penetration stuffing box there is friction there to prevent water leaking in through the penetration. After years of tightening to stop leakage it is maybe shot. I would take the time to repack the penetration while in drydock especially if you have no history on maintenance of previous owners. that packing is lubricated by slight leakage of water. no leakage = no lubrication and likely lots of friction and heat generation some stuffing boxes actually have water connections. The exterior support bearing is held in a support strut and is normally called a Cutlass bearing Lubricated with water also. Good call on the set screws
As for the replacement LS engines, ask the builders if they can focus on bringing the power & torque curves towards the lower RPMs as much as possible. Maybe small turbos and a cam to suit. You’ll be running for extended periods at a fixed RPM, so you’ll want that a fair bit lower than normal automotive RPM ranges.
And of course, stronger valve springs, etc.
I think a big challenge will be the exhausts. Typically water cooled in boats to keep the engine bays cool, and often have the sea water from coolant system introduced in there. Finally, lambda sensors are incredibly sensitive to moisture, so any ‘splash back’ can wreck the sensor and see the engine go into base/limp running mode.
You can get EFI adaptor kits for carb marine engines, but they’re largely junk because of the retro-fitting of the lambda sensors, and typically last a few hours.
Good luck!
You can buy water jacketed extractors for LS as apposed to a wet exhaust I am pretty sure?
Hydraulic rams on the trim tabs. Since the hoses are missing there's probably water in the rams themselves. Recommend taking them off and either getting a rebuild kit or have them rebuilt. Test the pump and the rest of the system and do what's needed. Those tabs and rams take a beating underway and deserve some proper care.
Let's see what the boat experts have to say today about painting! 😂😂😂
O boy, my dad was going ape shit watching them paint this thing.
Boat looks really good now. The right propellor could probably do with being replaced, has some chunks out of it. Maybe you can get them repaired. I guess its not too bad, and probably serviceable for a few more years.
Add some underwater lights whilst it`s out of the water, you will thank me later, when at night the music is cranking and the beers are a flowing
Hell no lol...all through hull devices always need maintenance...new boat may be ok, but with older hulls and lamination separations you’re asking for haul outs due to leaks.
Looks great and not painting the zincs yes...:).. Fun fact there is a sacrificial anode in your water heater at home. Look on top and you will find a blank bung which if you remove will pull out a long rod of either aluminium or zinc. Keep that clean (remove calcium in hard water areas) and your expensive water heater will last much longer.
zinc has a lower electron potential when compared to iron. This means the the zinc will oxidized first.
sincerely the chemist,
Those set screws just hold the Cutlass bearing in the prop strut. with the shafts pushed aft the way they are ,you probably have a corroded section of prop shaft in contact with the Cutlass bearing. push your shafts forward spray a little water on them for lubrication and see if they spin better.