Eagerly awaiting further videos, as I'm slowly rebuild a 1600 engine - I'd like to see something about the rocker arm assembly. Thanks and keep up the good work
Thanks for watching and the compliment. I think for a lot of people just being able to see what all is in there and having an idea of how it works is what they need to tackle it themselves. For others, they might get a better understanding why their repair bill is so high. :)
Great video Chris. Loved all the thorough advice, as you go through the process. Us weekend warriors, always like to watch and learn from someone that knows what they are doing. Thanks
I never knew the 4digit hp vs 3digit history of the certified hp stickers, always heard it had something to do with John Deere not producing advertised power and Oliver didn't want to get caught in the same situation. Thanks for the info! Also never knew or noticed the pressure lube hole in the governor shaft! Thanks for the video and the great info!
I see according to tractor data Oliver solved the problem by making the diesel a 283 cubes engine vs the 265 cubic inch gas in the 1650. 231 was 3.5 inch bore and the 265 was 3.75 as you said and the 283 was 3.875. All 4 inch stroke. Thanks for the tutorial along with the disassembly.
You gotta take tractor data with a grain of salt. They have the 1600 gas at 265 cubic inches. The 1650 was supposed to be a more powerful replacement for the 1600, that's why it was 265 gas and 283 diesel.
Thanks for the video Chris. I remember those piston sleeve kits and the M&W kits farmers were always looking for a little more HP. Just like today. Have a blessed day
@@ThatOliverGuyChris an older neighbor sold me a John Deere B, about the simplest tractor ever, that was spitting oil out of the exhaust. A year ago, I tore it apart, which I can do pretty well. I really need someone holding my hand putting it back together. One of those deals where they do the work and I stand there. Luckily I know a guy
Ben, at some point to get better you just have to dive in and take stuff apart and put it back together. I know that seems daunting, but experience can be your best teacher. Start on something simple that you don't have to have fixed and look up TH-cam videos, read online articles and buy and use service manuals. Anyone can learn.
Thanks Chris. I was wondering why I saw some 1600s listed as 248ci. Tractor data has the LP listed as 9:1 compression vs gas being 8.5:1. Do you know how they did it? Different pistons ?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris guessing there isn’t a lot of those heads around. I have 3 265ci engines here now, (880 mills) have a 1650 head I plan to put on a gas engine with some flat tops. See what hp I can get out of it for a hobby puller.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I’ll find some.😁 Some guys around here mix their own blend with E85-E100. I’ll talk with Brad at Maibach when I order parts. I guess if you don’t use the right head gasket you will crack sleeves.
How to tell bad rings or burnt valve? Remove spark plug squirt some oil into cylinder.recheck compression if compression comes up you have bad rings if not burnt valve because the oil will help seal the rings but can't help the valve problem thanks for a good site.
My 1650 gas has 155 to 165 pounds compression on all cylinders except number 4. Number 4 has 90 pounds, I squirted some oil in, rechecked it and it came up to 103 pounds. So I am thinking bad rings on that cylinder?
I have a couple questions. If you can answer them on a video. 1) 1600 governor. What will happen to the governor if you got freewheeling down hill with everything engaged? 2) Is there any difference between the 1855 and the 1600 block and head. Besides the bore and stroke? Thank you ☺️
1. The governor just knows how much spring pressure is fighting the flyweights, it's going to try to keep the rpms where you set them. If there is enough momentum added by say the PTO implement or the drive wheels, the engine can overspeed, but that usually takes a pretty steep hill. 2. The are many differences between them. The 1855 block is a 7 main block, the 1600 is only 4 mains. The heads are quite different, and that makes the blocks different. Coolant passages in different places for one thing. The 1855 diesel has a 6 port intake and 6 port exhaust manifold, the 1600 is a 3 port intake and 6 exhaust. Despite all of those differences, they use the same oil pan gasket, and the motor mount bolts will line up, allowing an 1855 engine to be bolted into a 1600 frame. Common bolt patterns on some parts of the engines saved them on tooling. The same machine could be used to drill and tap those holes at the factory.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris So what will happen to the governor in a down hill. Will it fly apart or get stuck in a one portion. I drove a 1855 gas . Down hill .and I broke the governor
If it gets going too fast it could fly apart. There's only so much stress it can take before those weights break free. If that happens the pieces could jam in there and lock the arm in one position.
How many hours on the engine? I learned to drive on two different gas1600s. One original and the other one resleeved with a bigger bore and m and w pistons. What completely different tractors! Different sound and completely different amount of torque. The governor seemed to respond differently too. Great video!!
I'll have to look at the tach again, but how many hours on that particular build of the engine is anyone's guess. There's quite a bit of wear in the sleeves, so they've been in there awhile.
Hey Chris another good one. I am interested in how your going to change over the front seal. I do not remember how the one was on the 1855 when you took it apart? I believe that is a different style on the later 310's. For the 1855 engine are you doing anything with the harmonic balancer?
I'm hoping to find a front cover from a later gas engine. They were changed to use a lip type seal. The pulley has to be changed as well to fit the seal. When I restored the 1650 I had everything on hand to convert that one. The other option is to modify the old cover to hold a lip seal that will also fit the old pulley. I've talked to guys that have done that, but haven't tried it myself. The 1855s were all lip type seals front and rear. The rear had a wear sleeve, the front was in good shape. The balancer appears to be in good shape, but quite a few have asked about it. I'm probably going to throw on the NOS one I have on the shelf and keep the old one for future projects.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris its nice when you have OE parts on tbe shelf! Have you ever had a balancer rebuilt? I think there is a few places that will do it.
@@aaronkaraszewski2749 , no. I had that one built while the dealership was still going strong. I needed storage space and there wasn't room to work on our own equipment at the dealership, so I had this built. It was modeled after the workshop we were using for the dealership, with a couple changes that make it a little more useful. The old shop is currently storage for shiny tractors and some of my brother's stuff.
Another excellent video as usual. Your commentary and explanations are really good. You got a full shop this winter with these projects! How many mechanics worked at the dealership full-time? Did you guys have a lot of engine work and major repairs going on frequently?
I think the most we had full time was 3 mechanics. We'd have a few engines a year, usually in the winter. We'd run specials on labor or parts to try to get some of that work in during the off season so we weren't flooded in the spring. It varied with the seasons, but I swear there was some external force out there that made everybody's stuff break at same time. Some days you're pulling your hair out, other days you wonder why you unlocked the doors. LOL
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Man do I hear you on that 100%. I am the maintenance manager at a rigging company. It's myself and one younger guy that works for me, and we have roughly 50 to 55 forklifts ranging in size from 5000 pound to 120,000 pound capacity, tractor trailers, you know stuff like that. Some days I feel anxious because it's too quiet and other days five or six different machines will break all at the same time and everyone is panicking. It is very strange how that works lol.
Chris do u remember me asking up about the 1755? Well I bought the thing and got it running but I got some smoke coming out from around the fuel tank and my pto always spins what is causing the smoke and how I fix the pto?
The smoke by the fuel tank is probably engine blow by. There's a port on the breather that faces the tank, and it should be capped off with an expansion plug. They seem to have a tendency to fall out. The pto could be a couple things. Disconnect the rod that comes down from the lever and put a crescent wrench on the lever that comes out of the control valve. Try actuating the pto with that crescent wrench. There's a couple of pins that can get loose or worn inside the valve, and that slop can prevent the hand lever from moving the spool enough to do its job. Take the cover off the pto valve and visually see if the links are all moving and that the spool is going up and down. If the spool is moving, and actuating it with the crescent wrench doesn't change anything, then it's probably something internal, maybe warped discs and a burned up pto brake. Then your looking at pulling the unit and rebuilding. Try that stuff out and let me know what you find.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris could it be from hydraulic pressure being low? The fluid was like jello that I drained out the plug also does this thing have a separate tank for fluid in the transmission or can I just fill it threw the hydraulic dip stick? Also some has filled the valve full of grease
I suppose it could be the fluid, especially in freezing weather. Low enough pressure should make it go into neutral or brake postion. It's designed to turn off the pto when pressure drops as a safety feature in case the pto is left on when the tractor is shut off. The hydraulic reservoir is separate from the transmission. I've got a video on draining the filter and oil. That would be a good place to start. The grease under the pto valve cap is normal. It's packed in there to keep things from rusting.
Great Video. Thanks. On the bigger Olivers like that, do you know what the fuel consumption difference between the gas and diesels were? Say compare a diesel 1600 to a gas 1600?
Not without looking it up. Fortunately the University of Nebraska has all of the old tractor tests online. Just google Oliver 1600 diesel Nebraska test, it should be the top result. Replace Oliver 1600 diesel with whatever make, model and fuel type to find results for just about any tractor.
No it isn't. I had this one built for the farm while the dealership was still open. We were pretty much at capacity in the dealership workshop, I needed more storage space, so I had this barn built with the workshop. Now the dealership workshop is storage for shiny tractors and some of my brother's stuff.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris my ex's father works with a guy who said he worked for your dad as a mechanic back in the day his name is Chris as well i can't remember his last name off the top of my head but he talks about the old dealership all the time and how awesome it was working for you guys and how much he misses it
Chris is a regular viewer here. He stopped by last year and we had a good time reminiscing about days gone by. Maybe I can get him to do a guest appearance one of these days.
Great videos. I know someone that needs a fuel tank for a 1755, any ideas where he might find one. He just got this tractor it's in great shape 1630 original hours but the tank is shot.
Try Maibach Tractor. They have lots of salvage tractors. Also, a radiator shop might be able to repair the old tank. It just depends on how shot shot is.
Hey man I've got a question for you also love your videos and they have taught me alot but I have a 1750 oliver and l can't figure out what happend but I was square baling hay and all of sudden the powerstering went out and the pto quit all at the same time and it made a nasty grounding noise from below the seat now is the a hydraulic pump underneath the seat in that housing would that couse that to happen or somthing else thank you
The hydraulic pump is right under the seat, but I'd be willing to bet the splines at the flywheel that drive the shaft that drives the pump and PTO stripped out. The sound probably rattled through the shaft and made it sound like it was at the pump. If the pump drive splines were stripped, you'd still have PTO. I've got a video on pulling the long PTO shaft. th-cam.com/video/LB4BLiHo9O8/w-d-xo.html That shows how to do it. If the engine end is stripped, the hub at the flywheel is going to need replaced as well, and you have to pull the engine to get to that.
Like how you demonstrated the govner mechanical engineering at its finest personally
Thanks
Eagerly awaiting further videos, as I'm slowly rebuild a 1600 engine - I'd like to see something about the rocker arm assembly. Thanks and keep up the good work
What all do you want to see about the rockers? I'll make sure I cover that when it goes back together
@@ThatOliverGuyChrisJust to make sure I've got it back together correctly
Wow! I really appreciate watching your videos! Almost gives me enough courage to do more work on my 1650D. Thanks Chris!
Thanks for watching and the compliment. I think for a lot of people just being able to see what all is in there and having an idea of how it works is what they need to tackle it themselves. For others, they might get a better understanding why their repair bill is so high. :)
Great video Chris. Loved all the thorough advice, as you go through the process. Us weekend warriors, always like to watch and learn from someone that knows what they are doing. Thanks
I never knew the 4digit hp vs 3digit history of the certified hp stickers, always heard it had something to do with John Deere not producing advertised power and Oliver didn't want to get caught in the same situation. Thanks for the info! Also never knew or noticed the pressure lube hole in the governor shaft! Thanks for the video and the great info!
Glad to help out, and good to see you on the youtube again!
Put that valve back in and send it! Lol. Nice work Chris!
A dab of JB weld and it should be good!
I see according to tractor data Oliver solved the problem by making the diesel a 283 cubes engine vs the 265 cubic inch gas in the 1650. 231 was 3.5 inch bore and the 265 was 3.75 as you said and the 283 was 3.875. All 4 inch stroke. Thanks for the tutorial along with the disassembly.
You gotta take tractor data with a grain of salt. They have the 1600 gas at 265 cubic inches. The 1650 was supposed to be a more powerful replacement for the 1600, that's why it was 265 gas and 283 diesel.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I guess that's why it's called tractor data instead of 100 percent accurate tractor data. 😀
Well.. that would definitely do it.. and just a little clapped out....
Interesting information too.. thank you Chris
Thanks for tuning in, Ed!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I always try to stop by.. usually do 👍😁
I have some Oliver parts for a white two and 55 if you’re interested in him injector injector pump
Thanks for the video Chris. I remember those piston sleeve kits and the M&W kits farmers were always looking for a little more HP. Just like today. Have a blessed day
The old "I want a bigger tractor, but I can't afford a bigger tractor " routine.
It’s always nice working on someone else’s stuff, don’t matter how much it’s going to cost
It’s his though
Until they don't pay the bill.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris yup, been there done that.
we traded a 1600 in on a 1555. the 1600 pulled the 3 bottom plow better
I love these videos! Really wish I were at that mechanical level
All you have to do is look it up online, but don't video that part. Instant mechanic!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris an older neighbor sold me a John Deere B, about the simplest tractor ever, that was spitting oil out of the exhaust. A year ago, I tore it apart, which I can do pretty well. I really need someone holding my hand putting it back together. One of those deals where they do the work and I stand there. Luckily I know a guy
@@bendunkelman4853 that's how Alan rolls! In all seriousness, it's hard to beat having someone there that has experience.
Ben, at some point to get better you just have to dive in and take stuff apart and put it back together. I know that seems daunting, but experience can be your best teacher. Start on something simple that you don't have to have fixed and look up TH-cam videos, read online articles and buy and use service manuals. Anyone can learn.
Hey from the other Becky! I didn’t watch this , shhh😮
Thanks Chris for a great video! We enjoyed all the information you share with us!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I enjoy seeing an engine taken apart with a running explanation as it is done so thank you for that. Safe travels bro
Tune in next week. The valve wasn't the only problem.
Thanks Chris. I was wondering why I saw some 1600s listed as 248ci. Tractor data has the LP listed as 9:1 compression vs gas being 8.5:1. Do you know how they did it? Different pistons ?
It was in the head with a slightly smaller chamber.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris guessing there isn’t a lot of those heads around. I have 3 265ci engines here now, (880 mills) have a 1650 head I plan to put on a gas engine with some flat tops. See what hp I can get out of it for a hobby puller.
@@crazydave4455 Flat tops and a 1650 head, do you have a good supply of racing fuel?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I’ll find some.😁 Some guys around here mix their own blend with E85-E100. I’ll talk with Brad at Maibach when I order parts. I guess if you don’t use the right head gasket you will crack sleeves.
Yeah, some engines have more sleeve protrusion than others.
How to tell bad rings or burnt valve? Remove spark plug squirt some oil into cylinder.recheck compression if compression comes up you have bad rings if not burnt valve because the oil will help seal the rings but can't help the valve problem thanks for a good site.
Good advice.
My 1650 gas has 155 to 165 pounds compression on all cylinders except number 4. Number 4 has 90 pounds, I squirted some oil in, rechecked it and it came up to 103 pounds. So I am thinking bad rings on that cylinder?
I have a couple questions. If you can answer them on a video. 1) 1600 governor. What will happen to the governor if you got freewheeling down hill with everything engaged? 2) Is there any difference between the 1855 and the 1600 block and head. Besides the bore and stroke? Thank you ☺️
1. The governor just knows how much spring pressure is fighting the flyweights, it's going to try to keep the rpms where you set them. If there is enough momentum added by say the PTO implement or the drive wheels, the engine can overspeed, but that usually takes a pretty steep hill.
2. The are many differences between them. The 1855 block is a 7 main block, the 1600 is only 4 mains. The heads are quite different, and that makes the blocks different. Coolant passages in different places for one thing. The 1855 diesel has a 6 port intake and 6 port exhaust manifold, the 1600 is a 3 port intake and 6 exhaust. Despite all of those differences, they use the same oil pan gasket, and the motor mount bolts will line up, allowing an 1855 engine to be bolted into a 1600 frame. Common bolt patterns on some parts of the engines saved them on tooling. The same machine could be used to drill and tap those holes at the factory.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris So what will happen to the governor in a down hill. Will it fly apart or get stuck in a one portion. I drove a 1855 gas . Down hill .and I broke the governor
If it gets going too fast it could fly apart. There's only so much stress it can take before those weights break free. If that happens the pieces could jam in there and lock the arm in one position.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris That governor cost me over 800$$ . what a education!!!! Then the dealership gave me a lecture on how to drive IT!!!!
I'd be willing to bet it was already on the loose side.
How many hours on the engine? I learned to drive on two different gas1600s. One original and the other one resleeved with a bigger bore and m and w pistons. What completely different tractors! Different sound and completely different amount of torque. The governor seemed to respond differently too.
Great video!!
I'll have to look at the tach again, but how many hours on that particular build of the engine is anyone's guess. There's quite a bit of wear in the sleeves, so they've been in there awhile.
Hey Chris another good one. I am interested in how your going to change over the front seal. I do not remember how the one was on the 1855 when you took it apart? I believe that is a different style on the later 310's. For the 1855 engine are you doing anything with the harmonic balancer?
I'm hoping to find a front cover from a later gas engine. They were changed to use a lip type seal. The pulley has to be changed as well to fit the seal. When I restored the 1650 I had everything on hand to convert that one. The other option is to modify the old cover to hold a lip seal that will also fit the old pulley. I've talked to guys that have done that, but haven't tried it myself.
The 1855s were all lip type seals front and rear. The rear had a wear sleeve, the front was in good shape.
The balancer appears to be in good shape, but quite a few have asked about it. I'm probably going to throw on the NOS one I have on the shelf and keep the old one for future projects.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris its nice when you have OE parts on tbe shelf! Have you ever had a balancer rebuilt? I think there is a few places that will do it.
@@aaronkaraszewski2749I have not. When we were open, we'd just order a new one, but that was 24 years ago.
@@ThatOliverGuyChrisya thats kinda hard to do now. Was the shop you work in the the same shop the dealership used?
@@aaronkaraszewski2749 , no. I had that one built while the dealership was still going strong. I needed storage space and there wasn't room to work on our own equipment at the dealership, so I had this built. It was modeled after the workshop we were using for the dealership, with a couple changes that make it a little more useful. The old shop is currently storage for shiny tractors and some of my brother's stuff.
Another excellent video as usual. Your commentary and explanations are really good. You got a full shop this winter with these projects! How many mechanics worked at the dealership full-time? Did you guys have a lot of engine work and major repairs going on frequently?
I think the most we had full time was 3 mechanics. We'd have a few engines a year, usually in the winter. We'd run specials on labor or parts to try to get some of that work in during the off season so we weren't flooded in the spring. It varied with the seasons, but I swear there was some external force out there that made everybody's stuff break at same time. Some days you're pulling your hair out, other days you wonder why you unlocked the doors. LOL
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Man do I hear you on that 100%. I am the maintenance manager at a rigging company. It's myself and one younger guy that works for me, and we have roughly 50 to 55 forklifts ranging in size from 5000 pound to 120,000 pound capacity, tractor trailers, you know stuff like that. Some days I feel anxious because it's too quiet and other days five or six different machines will break all at the same time and everyone is panicking. It is very strange how that works lol.
Ehh, that governor washer is copper. Gears are steel. Should be fine. It’ll go somewhere. 🤣
It will go several somewheres.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it’ll be easier to throw away that way.
Alan calls that recycling.
Chris do u remember me asking up about the 1755? Well I bought the thing and got it running but I got some smoke coming out from around the fuel tank and my pto always spins what is causing the smoke and how I fix the pto?
The smoke by the fuel tank is probably engine blow by. There's a port on the breather that faces the tank, and it should be capped off with an expansion plug. They seem to have a tendency to fall out.
The pto could be a couple things. Disconnect the rod that comes down from the lever and put a crescent wrench on the lever that comes out of the control valve. Try actuating the pto with that crescent wrench. There's a couple of pins that can get loose or worn inside the valve, and that slop can prevent the hand lever from moving the spool enough to do its job. Take the cover off the pto valve and visually see if the links are all moving and that the spool is going up and down. If the spool is moving, and actuating it with the crescent wrench doesn't change anything, then it's probably something internal, maybe warped discs and a burned up pto brake. Then your looking at pulling the unit and rebuilding. Try that stuff out and let me know what you find.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris could it be from hydraulic pressure being low? The fluid was like jello that I drained out the plug also does this thing have a separate tank for fluid in the transmission or can I just fill it threw the hydraulic dip stick? Also some has filled the valve full of grease
I suppose it could be the fluid, especially in freezing weather.
Low enough pressure should make it go into neutral or brake postion. It's designed to turn off the pto when pressure drops as a safety feature in case the pto is left on when the tractor is shut off.
The hydraulic reservoir is separate from the transmission. I've got a video on draining the filter and oil. That would be a good place to start.
The grease under the pto valve cap is normal. It's packed in there to keep things from rusting.
Here's the hydraulic video
th-cam.com/video/kTzym_xH2tc/w-d-xo.html
@@ThatOliverGuyChris where do I fill the transmission with fluid at?
Lefty loosey😜
Great Video. Thanks. On the bigger Olivers like that, do you know what the fuel consumption difference between the gas and diesels were? Say compare a diesel 1600 to a gas 1600?
Not without looking it up. Fortunately the University of Nebraska has all of the old tractor tests online. Just google Oliver 1600 diesel Nebraska test, it should be the top result. Replace Oliver 1600 diesel with whatever make, model and fuel type to find results for just about any tractor.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks
Chris is the shop you work in the same shop that the dealership used??
No it isn't. I had this one built for the farm while the dealership was still open. We were pretty much at capacity in the dealership workshop, I needed more storage space, so I had this barn built with the workshop. Now the dealership workshop is storage for shiny tractors and some of my brother's stuff.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris my ex's father works with a guy who said he worked for your dad as a mechanic back in the day his name is Chris as well i can't remember his last name off the top of my head but he talks about the old dealership all the time and how awesome it was working for you guys and how much he misses it
Chris is a regular viewer here. He stopped by last year and we had a good time reminiscing about days gone by. Maybe I can get him to do a guest appearance one of these days.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris heck yeah I think that would be awesome
I have always wondered why you guys closed the dealership doors in the first place that wouldn't be a bad one for a video explanation
those first two head bolts Alan was working on must have been left handed bolts, ;)
LOL.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Didn't you have a pipe to give Allen to slip on his ratchet handle?
Alan didn't ask for a pipe. That was his learning lesson for the day. LOL
Great videos. I know someone that needs a fuel tank for a 1755, any ideas where he might find one. He just got this tractor it's in great shape 1630 original hours but the tank is shot.
Try Maibach Tractor. They have lots of salvage tractors. Also, a radiator shop might be able to repair the old tank. It just depends on how shot shot is.
Hay Thanks. This tank is very rusty inside and has quite a bit of tar in it
Hey man I've got a question for you also love your videos and they have taught me alot but I have a 1750 oliver and l can't figure out what happend but I was square baling hay and all of sudden the powerstering went out and the pto quit all at the same time and it made a nasty grounding noise from below the seat now is the a hydraulic pump underneath the seat in that housing would that couse that to happen or somthing else thank you
The hydraulic pump is right under the seat, but I'd be willing to bet the splines at the flywheel that drive the shaft that drives the pump and PTO stripped out. The sound probably rattled through the shaft and made it sound like it was at the pump. If the pump drive splines were stripped, you'd still have PTO. I've got a video on pulling the long PTO shaft. th-cam.com/video/LB4BLiHo9O8/w-d-xo.html That shows how to do it. If the engine end is stripped, the hub at the flywheel is going to need replaced as well, and you have to pull the engine to get to that.
Thanks man your so much help good luck to you