We had a Lilliston mower that used a PTO shield that connected to shield on tractor worked ok till got bent, we won't discuss that, cause I was the one who bent it lol
Chris, thank you so much for sharing. Your in depth knowledge of these Oliver's is very impressive. It is amazing the intricate work and craftmanship that went into them as well. Looking forward to seeing the progress of both tractors
Two (2) tried and true tidbits. #1 Even if the farmer ran out of gas 9 times in one week, the tractor always came into the shop with 3/4 or more fuel in the tank. #2 The only times the farmer called you out for a chain coupler service call was, 1; the tractor was knee-deep in mud, 2; knee-deep in manure, 3; knee-deep in snow, 4; it was 100 in the shade, or 5; every cloud in the clear sky decided to try and drown you.
I appreciate the discussion on the PTO lever. Part of the argument for the Fleetline wanting the lever on the right was those tractors were entered on the back. The lever on the left side interferes with getting up on the tractor. I know. My Standard 88 still has the lever on the left side, and the lever interferes more now than it did when I was younger!! Nothing to do with the spare tire around my waist getting bigger!
Chris enjoy your videos don't have to watch them all other than for some entertainment !! but I do use them to refresh my memory!!! You were talking about the casting on the engine block!! The clock is to tell you what shift would actually poured that block!!!! Not knowing the hours that the plant had it could be anywhere in a 12-hour period!!!! So says the old Oliver mechanic that taught me!!!
The chain on my White came off and severed the wiring harness. I had to have that replaced along with a new clutch and other things, costs a lot to get it done. I just don't have the facility to do all that, but I did know how to, just no place to do it, nor a gantry. Oh well as you said, "it's only money". Thanks for sharing, have a great Friday and weekend ahead.
Thoroughly enjoy all the videos. Also appreciate the extra information as you get going, such as the tidbits on casting codes and the engineering of the left vs right pto levers. Really adds to your videos. Keep up the good work.
86 series IH tractors had the gear levers on the left next to the seat, while the newer 88 tractors put them on the right. With no foot throttle and a non-synchro transmission, you had to reach across to the throttle with your left hand to quietly shift from third to fourth on the road. It was also really busy doing loader work, with everything on the right hand. I often said bad words about engineers.
I used to say more about them, but then I learned about sales. Engineering would often come up with a design, and when cost analysis was done the sales department would send them back to come up with something that would cost less and keep the price down. Not to say there weren't some dumb engineers, but it takes a village to raise an idiot.
Awesome video Chris! I always enjoy the history lessons. I don't know if there's anyone on the Internet that could challenge how much you know about Oliver
If they had a little more room between the bell housing and the motor mount pads, they could slide forward and disconnect without messing with the chain.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Why was the chain coupler required if it wasn’t needed for the pto shaft which ran inside the whole mechanism? Maybe this is a dumb question. What design did other companies use. To me it just seems that a chain coupler is a poor design. A weak link in transferring all that power to the transmission.
@@allannantes8583 the chain coupler was for ground drive. It was a cheap way solve minor alignment issues, and allowed the easy optioning of hydra power drive. Not their best idea ever.
That chain coupling sure looked like a challenge to get apart. I could not imagine installing it! I have worked on maybe 5 or 6 different tractors and never had much issues with the coupling. it was always the 3 speed or clutch jobs.
Chris, sometime in the future, would you be willing to go over the Oliver "screw in" hydraulic tips? As I kid, I remember seeing 3 different Oliver's at an antique tractor show that had those. What about taking those shafts to a machine shop and having them built back up with new splines? Other question or concern to me would be, what are the internal splines looking like. I mean, if one is wore, so should the other. I'm enjoying this series, can't wait to see it finished. Great video as always. Cheers :)
I'd have to find some of the screw in tips to do a video on. I think I have some Aeroquip couplers around here somewhere. Having the shaft built up is an option, I'd think the new splines would need heat treated. It might be just as far ahead to have a new shaft made at that point. Generally the hub gets worn too, but that one is in good shape. I'd bet it was replaced along with the clutch which looks fresh.
Hi Chris. Hey got a question any idea where you can get a replacement radiator screen? I'd like one like the screen one that's in our 1750. I've Seen other ones available with small round holes instead of the screen type. Thanks. Love your videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@ThatOliverGuyChris well that was fast 😳thanks man. Did Oliver keep tabs on how many tractors got the Levy HWFA as well, and did they count it with MFWA?
Hey Chris,like your videos, did they change the pto clutch in the next series,my 1655 has the one with the snap ring to remove to disassemble,can tell it’s not your first rodeo disconnecting that coupler chain! Good work!
I have been working on my 1600 that I purchased back in may and the other day I finally got it to where I could drive it around a bunch I I noticed it wasn’t switching from the high and low side of the trans it was staying in high and I found the shifting fork was broken but while I was messing with it I noticed that the back drive gears on the input shaft had play in them when lifting on it with a bar. So my question is how much play is acceptable in that back gear before i need to remove the shaft and replace the sleeve? Thanks for the help
The 1600 is pressure lubed and there are a couple of sealing rings in there to keep the oil in place. A little looseness is normal, it floats on that oil when it's not the one being used. When it is engaged, it's spinning the same speed as the input shaft/sleeve and is centered up with the shift collar. When they get really loose it's usually from the sleeve and shaft getting welded together and then coming loose again. You can usually tell because the gear will be dark with blue tinting on the teeth from the excessive heat. The sleeve isn't available new any more, so if it excessively worn you'll need to find a good used one.
Ok thanks for the help after working on this tractor I’ve have quickly found that it’s had a pretty rough life and I’m just trying to give it a second chance at life since I like Oliver’s so much and hate to see any go to scrap. It won’t ever get worked hard just go to shows since Oliver’s are pretty much never seen in our area, do a little garden work and I may rake a little hay with it.
For the 1600 did they ever make a 2 speed transmission that you have stop and mash the clutch in to shift cause I have one that was supposed to have hydra power but after I got it found it didn’t and you can’t shift it while moving without it grinding
@@ThatOliverGuyChris is there any difference in the transmission with it having the creeper gear or can I easily swap it to hydra power cause I would like to do that one day
The main transmission should have a long shift rail to make the creeper shift back into regular speed in road gear and I think 5th gear. You may have to cut some off that shift rail, but other than that they should be a direct replacement.
Yes. There are some variations on the output (chain coupler vs trunion) and the input shaft length is different on the Perkins and Cat powered tractors
I'd go with the 5.9, just because it runs so much smoother. I like my American, but that 4 banger really rattles stuff at an idle. I'd probably go with a turbo, but I'd try to keep the pto power down to around 100.
Not as bad as the 3.9 cummins. I do think my 66 diesel vibrates more at low rpm than my gas Super 66 or 660. I was told Cummins recommended White use a counter balancer to smooth it out, but White didn't go for it to keep the price down.
@@bendunkelman4853 you can. Most 3.9s were mounted on rubber, so they didn't need it. It's a separate shaft with weights that drives off the crank to counter the vibrations. I don't know how available they are.
We had a Lilliston mower that used a PTO shield that connected to shield on tractor worked ok till got bent, we won't discuss that, cause I was the one who bent it lol
very interesting video
Chris, thank you so much for sharing. Your in depth knowledge of these Oliver's is very impressive. It is amazing the intricate work and craftmanship that went into them as well. Looking forward to seeing the progress of both tractors
Always interesting videos Chris. I’m always amazed how you work in gloves so well. Don’t think I could do it!
It takes awhile to get used to it, but they sure save me a lot of scratches and cuts.
Two (2) tried and true tidbits.
#1 Even if the farmer ran out of gas 9 times in one week, the tractor always came into the shop with 3/4 or more fuel in the tank.
#2 The only times the farmer called you out for a chain coupler service call was, 1; the tractor was knee-deep in mud, 2; knee-deep in manure, 3; knee-deep in snow, 4; it was 100 in the shade, or 5; every cloud in the clear sky decided to try and drown you.
You have turned wrench a few times. Those are all true. The only chain coupler I did a service call on was in a feedlot.
PTO lever on the left side is definitely what you want for unloading forage boxes, that’s how the 375 Massey we use is.
Love all the extra little history and tidbits. Appreciate it!
I appreciate the discussion on the PTO lever. Part of the argument for the Fleetline wanting the lever on the right was those tractors were entered on the back. The lever on the left side interferes with getting up on the tractor. I know. My Standard 88 still has the lever on the left side, and the lever interferes more now than it did when I was younger!! Nothing to do with the spare tire around my waist getting bigger!
My 77 standard is the same, and so am I.
Chris enjoy your videos don't have to watch them all other than for some entertainment !! but I do use them to refresh my memory!!! You were talking about the casting on the engine block!! The clock is to tell you what shift would actually poured that block!!!! Not knowing the hours that the plant had it could be anywhere in a 12-hour period!!!! So says the old Oliver mechanic that taught me!!!
I was thinking that, but wasn't going to put wrong info out there if I could help it.
Everybody has brain fog or brain farts every now and then!!! Still love your knowledge and wit!!!
The chain on my White came off and severed the wiring harness. I had to have that replaced along with a new clutch and other things, costs a lot to get it done. I just don't have the facility to do all that, but I did know how to, just no place to do it, nor a gantry. Oh well as you said, "it's only money". Thanks for sharing, have a great Friday and weekend ahead.
Thanks!
Thoroughly enjoy all the videos. Also appreciate the extra information as you get going, such as the tidbits on casting codes and the engineering of the left vs right pto levers. Really adds to your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks
Getting interesting both the 1855 and the 1600.
86 series IH tractors had the gear levers on the left next to the seat, while the newer 88 tractors put them on the right. With no foot throttle and a non-synchro transmission, you had to reach across to the throttle with your left hand to quietly shift from third to fourth on the road. It was also really busy doing loader work, with everything on the right hand. I often said bad words about engineers.
I used to say more about them, but then I learned about sales. Engineering would often come up with a design, and when cost analysis was done the sales department would send them back to come up with something that would cost less and keep the price down. Not to say there weren't some dumb engineers, but it takes a village to raise an idiot.
With all other tractors why fall love Oliver tractor ,was a good tractor?
Didn’t see the new prayer mats when doing the motor mounts
I took them to the shop. It's going to be like shop gloves, took me awhile to get used to them, now I hardly work without them.
Awesome video Chris! I always enjoy the history lessons. I don't know if there's anyone on the Internet that could challenge how much you know about Oliver
There's a few out there.
Our '49 88 had PTO lever on the right and I preferred it that way. But I believe it was switchable.
That roller chain was the most aggravating part of pulling those engines
If they had a little more room between the bell housing and the motor mount pads, they could slide forward and disconnect without messing with the chain.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Why was the chain coupler required if it wasn’t needed for the pto shaft which ran inside the whole mechanism? Maybe this is a dumb question. What design did other companies use. To me it just seems that a chain coupler is a poor design. A weak link in transferring all that power to the transmission.
@@allannantes8583 the chain coupler was for ground drive. It was a cheap way solve minor alignment issues, and allowed the easy optioning of hydra power drive. Not their best idea ever.
That chain coupling sure looked like a challenge to get apart. I could not imagine installing it! I have worked on maybe 5 or 6 different tractors and never had much issues with the coupling. it was always the 3 speed or clutch jobs.
They must have had the dash out or tipped back to get that in there.
Enjoyed this video bro. Safe travels
Thanks!
Chris, sometime in the future, would you be willing to go over the Oliver "screw in" hydraulic tips? As I kid, I remember seeing 3 different Oliver's at an antique tractor show that had those.
What about taking those shafts to a machine shop and having them built back up with new splines? Other question or concern to me would be, what are the internal splines looking like. I mean, if one is wore, so should the other.
I'm enjoying this series, can't wait to see it finished. Great video as always. Cheers :)
I'd have to find some of the screw in tips to do a video on. I think I have some Aeroquip couplers around here somewhere. Having the shaft built up is an option, I'd think the new splines would need heat treated. It might be just as far ahead to have a new shaft made at that point.
Generally the hub gets worn too, but that one is in good shape. I'd bet it was replaced along with the clutch which looks fresh.
Hi Chris. Hey got a question any idea where you can get a replacement radiator screen? I'd like one like the screen one that's in our 1750. I've Seen other ones available with small round holes instead of the screen type. Thanks. Love your videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Korvesoliver.com has them.
Last time I’ll ask because I’m committed to remembering this time lol. How many 1600 FWAs were made? Oliver, Cockshutt, gas, diesel?
29 Olivers, and 3 Cockshutt. I don't recall the gas vs diesel numbers, but it's about 50/50.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris well that was fast 😳thanks man. Did Oliver keep tabs on how many tractors got the Levy HWFA as well, and did they count it with MFWA?
They lumped those in with row crops on the production records I looked at. A person would have to go through the build cards to figure that out.
Hey Chris,like your videos, did they change the pto clutch in the next series,my 1655 has the one with the snap ring to remove to disassemble,can tell it’s not your first rodeo disconnecting that coupler chain! Good work!
The 1650 went to the wet clutch pto like in your 1655. Supposedly the wet clutch pto could be put in the 1550, but I've never seen one that way.
It made me laugh when you said “it’s only money” the majority of the people I heard that line from either work at or own an equipment dealership 😁
It's in the dealer training manual.
My 1550, 1555 and 1850 have pto lever on the right and my 1650 is on the left.
My 1850 is on the left.
I have been working on my 1600 that I purchased back in may and the other day I finally got it to where I could drive it around a bunch I I noticed it wasn’t switching from the high and low side of the trans it was staying in high and I found the shifting fork was broken but while I was messing with it I noticed that the back drive gears on the input shaft had play in them when lifting on it with a bar. So my question is how much play is acceptable in that back gear before i need to remove the shaft and replace the sleeve? Thanks for the help
The 1600 is pressure lubed and there are a couple of sealing rings in there to keep the oil in place. A little looseness is normal, it floats on that oil when it's not the one being used. When it is engaged, it's spinning the same speed as the input shaft/sleeve and is centered up with the shift collar. When they get really loose it's usually from the sleeve and shaft getting welded together and then coming loose again. You can usually tell because the gear will be dark with blue tinting on the teeth from the excessive heat. The sleeve isn't available new any more, so if it excessively worn you'll need to find a good used one.
Ok thanks for the help after working on this tractor I’ve have quickly found that it’s had a pretty rough life and I’m just trying to give it a second chance at life since I like Oliver’s so much and hate to see any go to scrap. It won’t ever get worked hard just go to shows since Oliver’s are pretty much never seen in our area, do a little garden work and I
may rake a little hay with it.
I take that back, the sleeve is still available. Sometimes AGCO's parts book for the 1600 is messed up because of a typo.
Ok thanks for letting me know
For the 1600 did they ever make a 2 speed transmission that you have stop and mash the clutch in to shift cause I have one that was supposed to have hydra power but after I got it found it didn’t and you can’t shift it while moving without it grinding
That sounds like the creeper transmission. It goes in the same spot as the hydra power drive, but you have to stop to shift it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris is there any difference in the transmission with it having the creeper gear or can I easily swap it to hydra power cause I would like to do that one day
The main transmission should have a long shift rail to make the creeper shift back into regular speed in road gear and I think 5th gear. You may have to cut some off that shift rail, but other than that they should be a direct replacement.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris ok thanks for the help
@@jasondagenhart1253 no problem
Will an over/under tranmission fit in place of a hydra power drive?
Yes. There are some variations on the output (chain coupler vs trunion) and the input shaft length is different on the Perkins and Cat powered tractors
Also, the input shaft is a smaller diameter on 16 and 15 sized tractors
When are you going to fix the pto on the 2255
Good question. Probably not until these 2 are done.
Pto shield? Never heard of her
Lol.
PTO shield? Did you not know it is a hired hand step for hitching a ride?
PTO shield? Pretty sure that is a step.
On my 1650 it was a place to mount the remote couplers.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris LOL. I've seen that option once or twice.
Say you wanted to put a Cummins in a 1600 or 1650, would you go with a 3.9 or 5.9? And turbo, or not?
I'd go with the 5.9, just because it runs so much smoother. I like my American, but that 4 banger really rattles stuff at an idle. I'd probably go with a turbo, but I'd try to keep the pto power down to around 100.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris how badly to 66 and 55 size tractors vibrate?
Not as bad as the 3.9 cummins. I do think my 66 diesel vibrates more at low rpm than my gas Super 66 or 660. I was told Cummins recommended White use a counter balancer to smooth it out, but White didn't go for it to keep the price down.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris could you retro fit one, or is that impractical?
@@bendunkelman4853 you can. Most 3.9s were mounted on rubber, so they didn't need it. It's a separate shaft with weights that drives off the crank to counter the vibrations. I don't know how available they are.
Hey from the other Becky! I didn’t watch this , shhh😮
I think this is the one where the muffler flies off and tries to knock me in the head. Quality entertainment right there.