How to Apply Hard Wax to a Wire Armature - Sculpting Miniatures
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2020
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Wire used for this armature (great inexpensive option): amzn.to/34RvFea
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This is a great idea fritz! It's really the only way to get wax to adhere to that wire for small stuff. I've said this before, but wax is a royal pain in the ass in the beginning to work with. You have to make peace with it and just practice. Once you figure out how to regulate temperatures, I actually prefer to use wax instead of clay these days. The cleanup is just part of the pain. I use a heat gun on low to cleanup messes off of walls, tools and the bench. Once the wax starts to melt, it easily wipes up with a paper towel or rag.
One small tip to build layers fast is crank the heat to 200 and shut the heat off. Then once every 30seconds, dip the wire. Repeat. As the wax in the pot cools, the subsequent layer will be thicker until it's too cold to properly coat the piece. The only caveat, you have to watch for proper adhesion between dippings. Breaking a piece like this can reveal "pages" of wax layers like a book. This could haunt you later during carving if you're not careful. Been there, done that.
Yes it is very interesting to see how it layers itself on there. Wax holds an incredible level of detail, especially on hands. Definitely worth making peace with it for sculpting alone.
Thank you so much! I never thought you will make a video just to answer my question I really appreciated it 😍 loyal subscriber here 😍
Sure! It was a really good discussion you brought up. This video was a lot longer than I thought it would be. Such a simple technique, but very difficult to do correctly without following the technique. I hoped it helped you in the studio!
This is awesome.. My instincts told me to use an armature to make a wax human model ... didn’t think about dipping it like a “hand dipped taper candle”. I am attempting to make a beeswax model... and using kids sculpting wax... but it wasn’t forming completely.. so I’ve been trying to concoct a recipe to make it moldable but I want it to harden to a certain point at least. Anyway. Thanks so much for this. New subscriber!
Very hepful
Do you have a video on making a life size armature for bust in wax? A cast will be taken from it.
Does the microcrystalline recover its hardness if you do overheat? I know with encaustic (beeswax Damar resin blend) it craps out over 240 and wont reharden. But maybe its the organic rosin. Its just my old batch of sculpting wax is very soft or takes a long time to harden up enough to be plastic.
Also on cleanup, i use a palette knife to scrape the tool then a heat gun or hairdryer or butane torch to melt the residue and only then wipe with paper towel. Scrapers are bliss. I use multiple scrapers for everything even house paint and cat vomit because they scrape each other - tools that clean themselves!
i must sound like a propector, says to self ,"Goan get me a skillet", cool vid thank you
Why would someone use sculpture was on an armature? I recognize it could be for practice or if they wanted to make a plaster mold cast. But if someone to have it made into a bronze. The wax could be melted but the metal armature would be interfering with the lost wax process, wouldn't it? Thanks for making this video. Have a Great Day!
I usually make a preliminary model out of clay for small sculptures or even for jewelry pieces. Rather than starting with a block of carving wax and having to carve away excess, I make a 2 part silicone putty mold. This way, I can always go back to that stage if something happens. My sculptures I cast into bronze usually, and are very small scale so I've never needed an armature. Thanks for the info! Great video. Maybe doing the armature and using a one shot mold in plaster would work out. The plaster would break down in water, and the wax would be left. Worth a try!
Hi Jan... Once plaster goes through the curing process, it doesn't dissolve as easy as you would think in water. Might take a long time.
@@jagboy69 a 2 part mold is always possible no matter what type of plaster. No water dissolve needed then. I usually use investment plaster since I got a 50 lb bag. And I'm used to dissolving it in water after doing a casting. Never tried to dissolve it without heating it though. Might have to try that. But silicone is always a back up. For this type of thing with an armature with space around it, I'd block it in with clay on the armature and use the less expensive pourable silicone product. Less time carving away excess wax, even with doing a temporary mold and clay on an armature still saves me tons of labor. The armature with clay could be reused and change the pose.
Please come back and let us know how the plaster approach goes for you. Really appreciate the feedback.
@@FritzHoppe No problem! Love sharing with other artists and crafts people.
Have you ever used casteline? If so, how did you like it? Thanks for all the info and videos your making! Its been alot of help and entertainment:)
Castilene is fantastic, and if you wanna use it as a hard carving wax, add 25% Caranuba wax to it, and it turns it into a rock hard, easly flowing casting wax. which you can use with a wax carving pen, polish it easily, ect. that's what Mcfarlane Toys used to use back in the days before Digital Sculpting changed *EVERYTHING* but if you got any old Spawn or Movie Maniacs toys, they were made 100% with Castilene. they used soft Castilene to block in the sculpts, made "Waste" Silicone Molds, then poured the Extra Extra Hard Castilene into them, and sculpted all the details with it like that. if you look up "Terminator 3 Mcfarlane Toys behind the scenes" i think its called, you can see them using it.
What kind of wire do you use?
I use a crock pot on low and just keep the wax at a malleable temperature. I'd add a photo but i can't figure out how.
Oh man. i HATE that Victory Brown Wax. but if you use Wax the RIGHT WAY, its not "Tough" to work with. Wax is meant to be used for "Finishing" aka sculpt whatever you want, make a waste mold.. then inject/pour the hard wax into the armature. then you can use a wax pen to add small details, carve it, polish it. ect. sculpting with Victory Brown wax is a VERY Bad idea unless you're making something HUGE, and even then i don't like it, because it's such a crappy, dark color its INCREDIBLY Hard to see. if you want to work with just one "Clay or Wax" Castilene is much. MUCH. *MUCH* Better. even more so than Monster Clay, because it's a lot harder and easier to detail.
Monster Clay is however fantastic for bigger sculpts like Masks, Statues and the like, AND its fantastic for making your Basic sculpt before making a waste mold for the "Hard" wax. btw the best "Hard" waxes are Scott Hensey's Wax, and Azbro Wax. i absolurely love both of those.
if all else fails, use Zbrush, Blender or whatever, and just 3D Print your Sculpt.
3/4 of this is frickin safety crap!
I am so glad fast forward was invented. This might solve your problem. Very helpful video.
@@michaelwinick my apologies. I was getting a ton of safety stuff that day while trying to find some info. It was inappropriate, and I apologize. Warm regards.
So boring why? it like being in pre school...is this what young people do with education..