I ran my brand new garmin to a fuse block and kept the inline fuse and installed a brand new fuse in my fuse blocks and garmin wouldn't turn on. I checked the glass fuse in the garmin it was fine ended up having a bad new fuse in my fuse block. Was easier to replace the fuse in the fuseblock than open the garmin inline fuse holder
Very well planned setup. What size fuse did you use for live scope black box and your 12" unit? How many amp hours is your dedicated battery? Keep us updated on where and how your going to run your livescope transducer. I'm very interested!
For fuses, I just matched up what was in the factory fuse holder. I believe the factory fuse for the black box was a 7.5 amp. As far the 126 the, factory calls for a 9amp I think I used another 7.5 for it as I ran for a year with a 4 amp fuse with no issues. All the fuse sizes can be found here ( if it will let me share a link) :support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=R6UQrZ6ORS9UtB73uldU58 As far as the battery it is a group “29” aka 31 from Walmart but will be replaced with a Miller tech lithium here in the near future Thanks for watching! And I will be sure to update you guys on the rest of the live scope as what I do with my batteries etc
Back then I used a group 29 lead acid, it would last a while. But voltage would drop to low 12’s pretty quickly. I would highly recommend a 75 or 100ah muller tech now. I’m a dealer for them in you are interested in lithiums
Hey Max, I’m getting ready to install my own steady cast sensor in the system. I’m curious on your mounting location? Does the sensor not need to be installed on top the deck facing the bow open to the air? Great use of space with your install buddy!!
Hi Tom, Nope the steady cast sensor does not need a view of the sky to operate or need to be mounted in any certain orientation. Things to be aware of with that sensor is using the correct hardware (stainless screews which are provided) and keeping it away from things that can be magnetic such as speakers and steel etc.
@@kastawayfishing8484 this is a heading sensor that connects to the NMEA network on your Echomap or GPSMap chartplotter. Once connected and calibrated your boat icon will always be directly inline with your boat. Even at rest. This allows you to accurately set up on offshore structures to fish more accurately. It’s a very handy device.
@@kastawayfishing8484 the steady cast sensor is a heading sensor. So even if you are sitting still it will show which direction the bow of the boat is facing very handy when you are trying to stay on target to a waypoint. Without a heading sensor your chartplotter won’t show the correct orientation unless you are moving.
Nice setup and video. Curious on gauge of cable you used from Battery to fuse box. Also did you add a disconnect switch to power everything off since livescope black box continuously draws power?
The battery to the fuse block is 4 gauge. The black box has a switch inline between the fuse and the black box so it has no way to draw power when shut off
Where did you plug the steadycast into without having to use a NMEA setup? I have similar setup on a kayak and wanted to add steadycast to two 106sv units and livescope. Have the two 106’s connected via cable and livescope to one of the 106’s and gt56 to the other. Everything’s works perfectly but with adding steadycast I’m not sure where to plug it in.
A nmea backbone is required. Just not shown in the video. I have another video for nmea network setup. If you need any nmea items I have them all in stock at MGmarinetech.com
Im finally putting in a steady cast and am curious if you hook the power for the steady cast through the fuse box you have shown? I have similar set up with my livescope and GMS 10 only going to the fuse boxes
How did you mount the equipment with minimal holes in the boat? I would like to mount up under my dash, I'm running a skeeter bass boat. My options are limited there without drilling holes through the other side of the dash, or through the side of the boat. Would love to tuck everything up under there but I don't know how to do it without visible screws or bolts on the other side?
@@MGMarineTech Thank you for that - gluing a block was the only idea I could really come up with. I live in Oklahoma and summer temps are in the 90s and 100s, wasn't confident in the glue holding up. But sounds like my best option to try. Thanks man!
what size of non insulated ring terminals would i need for my power cord for a garmin ultra 106 sv ? I have a dual purpose battery with a set of additional smaller post which I think are 1/4 inch , but i am concerned more for the right size of ring terminals to crimp my power cord to .
Also you dont show the steady cast nema 2000 set up super close on this video but what I see is you only have one nema port? Everything I have read about installation for the steady cast shows I need 3 nema 2000 ports and two of the end terminators...? One port to hook the steady cast, the 2nd for the cord to run to the unit and the 3rd for power?nLooks like you got away with only one?? That would be much better for me so I am interested.
Hi Douglas, the steady cast sensor operates on the NMEA 2000 network and doesn’t share data over the garmin marine network. Refer to my NMEA 2000 video for more information on that
With the install of the GMS10 you no longer are connecting any of the screen directly via the back of the chartplotter ports correct? All the screens can link data to each other via the GMS10. So in the end, all three screens, the LiveScope, and the Steady Cast go into the GMS10? Does this make so the Steady cast can be at utilized both at the console and the Bow ? Thanks again. Appreciate it.
So regardless of the gms10 or not, any screen you want to be networked needs to be connected to the “network” meaning it needs to be connected via the ports on the back of the screen or to other screens or a gms10 port expander if you are out of ports. (For instance if you have 2 93uhd’s and livescope and you want everything to be networked, you would need a gms10 because each 93 only has 1 port) please refer to my network video for more info on that. As far as the steady cast that is on a different network and is not shared over the garmin marine network. So if you have 3 screens and you all want them to see the steady cast you need to run a NMEA 2000 dropper to each screen. Refer to my nmea 2000 basics video for more info on that.
Can you network the Echomap Plus 93SV (old one), Echomap UHD 93 SV, and Livescope all together using the GMS10? The older Echomap Plus 93SV does have an Ethernet port? My goal is to be able to see the Livescope on both head units at the same time.
Does it make a difference weather your steady cast is tucked back down under things? I assumed it needed to be on top somewhere unobstructed for best performance? I'm have one, I'm adding to my 106sv on my kayak. I'm definitely not drilling holes up on my bow, I have an area I can mount it, right in front of my graph. I could mount it up inside up front also , I just thought that wasn't ideal to be inside of it?? Any suggestions??
Nice install. Finally got my boat after a year of ordering it. Maiden voyage today :) I have watched most of your Garmin videos but realize I need to go through them again. I'm bit confused on the orientation of the Steadycast. My assumption was the arrow pointed to the bow of the boat. But I see comments about it being installed in any orientation. I also assume it needed to be visible. Yours of course is neither. On top of that I have a center console aluminum boat, which I think is a moot point to compasses, at least it is for magnets. I can install it in the center console away from other metal although my trolling motor batteries sit on the bottom. Thoughts?
Hi Paul, I haven’t gotten my steady cast to operate properly yet. But I think it’s my own fault. The instructions are not very clear on how it should be mounted and they do state “can be mounted in any orientation) and then really make no reference to the arrow which also throws a wrench into things. The next thing I am going to try is mounting it flat, with the arrow pointed towards the bow. And I’m going to mount mine on the bow. It does not need a clear view of the sky though.
is the GMS 10 like the black box, in that it constantly draws power when connected to the battery? I know typical switches are "always on" when plugged in. I have LS and two 93 Echomap + units I'm wanting to connect. Main reason is I want to see LiveScope on both bow and stern units. I have the black box and unit on bow hooked up to independent rocker switches. I'd like to avoid adding a third switch if possible, but don't want it to constantly draw power.
You know, I’m not positive on that. I do know that it’s power light doesn’t turn on until a unit is powered on. But I don’t know if it draw power while those lights are off. I would assume if it is drawing power while “off” that it would be a VERY minor amount. Like milliamps and would take months to drain a battery.
Hey brother, thank you for the video. I’m trying to plan my install for my steady cast heading sensor to 3 graphs. Garmin Customer support says you need a t connector and backdrop cable for each graph, 1 t connector for power and 1 more tee connector for the steady cast heading sensor. I noticed your Nmea 2000 backbone install in the video. Can you please explain it. Is there more to your install for the power and other tee connectors? Does the steady cast work for each of your 3 units? Thank you.
Garmin is correct. You need to run a dropper cable from the backbone to each screen you want to see the steady cast sensor. I don’t have all the dropper cables ran in my setup right now only the ones that are important that they see the steady cast sensor.
I think the 24xd is a better unit as it a god antenna as well. My steady cast has had issues keeping the heading correct, but I think it’s the location of the sensor. I need to move it.
Love the video, thanks! A bit unrelated, but maybe someone has an opinion. I'm deciding between the GPSMap 8610 and the Echomap Ultra 106. The main thing I think I care about is the extra resolution on the GPSMap (1920x1200) vs (1280x800) which I think would make a difference with the new Livescope Plus. But maybe not? Not sure about other differences I should care about. Thanks.
Nice setup thats what i would like to do minus where battery is. . I Have 2 93sv echomap plus units networked. One at bow one at console. I bought Garmin livescope and a gms 10. Have an 2006 Ranger is it possible to put the gms 10 and livescope black box under my console instead of putting in the rod locker up at bow. Like your setup. Mine are not uhd so they only have one port. Also will i still need the gt52 transducer along with the livescope transducer? I'm assuming i do to get 2d, clearvu and side imaging. Just looking for most accessible and easiest setup. Would like to do your setup but not sure i can. Thanks
Hey Keith! You can mount the gms10 and gls10 anywhere you would like. You will just have to get the correct length network cables. If you mount the gms10 under to console like I show you will need a 20’ and a 6’ cable. The livescope will have its own cable in the box. As far as the gt52 transducer I would keep it as you can run both at the same time
@@keithhudson5000 yes the garmin network cables are waterproof and highly recommended. Check out my networking video it will walk you through that process. As far as the cables check out Hennessy outdoor electronics they will be able to get you what you need. Tell them I sent you
I have a garmin Echomap network made of gms10, 2-Echomap UHD 93sv, a 106 Echomap ultra, a GT56 transducer, and Livescope connected all together. Is the Garmin steady cast heading sensor working for you? The reason I am asking is because I am considering incorporating one on my network. I have read amazon of customers having issues with the UHD Echomap graphs. Please advise. Thank you.
The steady cast sensor operates in the NMEA 2000 network and it will NOT share its data to other units that are on the garmin marine network. For each device that you want to see the steady cast a dropper cable from the nmea2000 network backbone must be added. For more info on building a NMEA 2000 backbone and the basics on them take a look at my “NMEA 2000 basics” video. As far as how the steady cast has worked for me? Well.. to be honest, when it work it’s great. The only issue I have is that it seems to loose the calibration very easily. That being said, I’m 98% sure it’s user error on my part and just a bad or incorrect mounting location. I am going to be moving my steady cast to the front of my boat laying flat with the arrow pointing straight forward. I believe this should fix my issue.
@@MGMarineTech I’m referring to the ground connection that in front of the black box. Is next to the red plug. Is a silver connection your supposed to crimp a ground wire to. But where does it go to? Can it be left alone? What about in a portable cooler setup?
I didn’t have problems getting a calibration, but I did have a problem keeping a calibration. I think it was a mounting location issue. I’m going to be trying a new location on the new boat.
@@ClearviewOutdoors the new location will be very similar but further away from things that can cause magnetic interference. I think I got 9-13 with mine before.
Not According to the manufacture of the crimpers. “Orientation of the terminal within the tool is always key to a good crimp. Hollingsworth hand tools create indentor style crimps, which means that the tool pushes an indentor into the terminal to create the crimp. It is imperative that the barrel seam face away from the indentor (or opposite), otherwise the force from the indentor will create an opening at the seam.”’ How I showed it is proper. You don’t want the indenter to possibly split the seam which is why you crimp on the opposite side of the seam. For other styles of terminals that “wrap” the the connector around the wire you are correct.
@@victorpritchett9814 what nema device are you hooking to them though? Steady cast? Etc? The nema 2000 network doesn’t share any kind of data or waypoints or transducers etc To do that you will want to create a garmin marine network. My networking video explains everything you will need and how to do it
@@MGMarineTech I'm new to this and your videos are very instructive. The adapter you are talking about is a little pricey. I'm looking at a little less pricey and little more affordable. I'm new to all of this so be patient with me. Lol...you seem to know what you are doing, that's why I watch your videos.
@@victorpritchett9814 you will need to have some kind of network expander. There are a couple of cheaper options on the market, you will want to find a network box that excepts 12v dc. The down side is that they aren’t waterproof so you have to take special care mounting it etc .
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Just wanted to say , I noticed how you reply to every comment, GOOD ON YOU !! Thanks for getting us on the water faster and sharing your knowledge .
I do my best! Thank you!
Use the blue part of the flame on the heat shrink, and it won't leave burn makes. ,keep up on the info ,and thanks man.
I will give that a shot, thank you.
I use a electric heat gun 99% of the time so It’s not a issue then
Wonderful explanations throughout your video well put together.
I ran my brand new garmin to a fuse block and kept the inline fuse and installed a brand new fuse in my fuse blocks and garmin wouldn't turn on. I checked the glass fuse in the garmin it was fine ended up having a bad new fuse in my fuse block. Was easier to replace the fuse in the fuseblock than open the garmin inline fuse holder
Another reason I cut the factory fuse holder off just to eliminate possible issues
Very well planned setup. What size fuse did you use for live scope black box and your 12" unit? How many amp hours is your dedicated battery? Keep us updated on where and how your going to run your livescope transducer. I'm very interested!
For fuses, I just matched up what was in the factory fuse holder. I believe the factory fuse for the black box was a 7.5 amp. As far the 126 the, factory calls for a 9amp I think I used another 7.5 for it as I ran for a year with a 4 amp fuse with no issues.
All the fuse sizes can be found here ( if it will let me share a link) :support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=R6UQrZ6ORS9UtB73uldU58
As far as the battery it is a group “29” aka 31 from Walmart but will be replaced with a Miller tech lithium here in the near future
Thanks for watching! And I will be sure to update you guys on the rest of the live scope as what I do with my batteries etc
Did you ever get your steady cast to stay calibrated? I'm on my second spot and doesn't stay calibrated on front deck of boat.
I moved it over to the new boat and haven’t messed with it much as of late. I need to get back on it and make sure it’s working correctly.
What battery did you have with this set up and what kind of time would you get out of it?
Back then I used a group 29 lead acid, it would last a while. But voltage would drop to low 12’s pretty quickly.
I would highly recommend a 75 or 100ah muller tech now. I’m a dealer for them in you are interested in lithiums
Hey Max, I’m getting ready to install my own steady cast sensor in the system. I’m curious on your mounting location? Does the sensor not need to be installed on top the deck facing the bow open to the air? Great use of space with your install buddy!!
Hi Tom,
Nope the steady cast sensor does not need a view of the sky to operate or need to be mounted in any certain orientation.
Things to be aware of with that sensor is using the correct hardware (stainless screews which are provided) and keeping it away from things that can be magnetic such as speakers and steel etc.
@@MGMarineTech awesome!! Thanks for the detailed explanation. I came from a competing brand to Garmin. learning new technology!!! Thank you sir!
What exactly does the steady cast do?
@@kastawayfishing8484 this is a heading sensor that connects to the NMEA network on your Echomap or GPSMap chartplotter. Once connected and calibrated your boat icon will always be directly inline with your boat. Even at rest. This allows you to accurately set up on offshore structures to fish more accurately. It’s a very handy device.
@@kastawayfishing8484 the steady cast sensor is a heading sensor. So even if you are sitting still it will show which direction the bow of the boat is facing very handy when you are trying to stay on target to a waypoint.
Without a heading sensor your chartplotter won’t show the correct orientation unless you are moving.
Nice setup and video. Curious on gauge of cable you used from Battery to fuse box. Also did you add a disconnect switch to power everything off since livescope black box continuously draws power?
The battery to the fuse block is 4 gauge.
The black box has a switch inline between the fuse and the black box so it has no way to draw power when shut off
@@MGMarineTech can you use 10 gauge for all of it from battery to block and block to front of boat?
Where did you plug the steadycast into without having to use a NMEA setup? I have similar setup on a kayak and wanted to add steadycast to two 106sv units and livescope. Have the two 106’s connected via cable and livescope to one of the 106’s and gt56 to the other. Everything’s works perfectly but with adding steadycast I’m not sure where to plug it in.
A nmea backbone is required. Just not shown in the video.
I have another video for nmea network setup.
If you need any nmea items I have them all in stock at MGmarinetech.com
Im finally putting in a steady cast and am curious if you hook the power for the steady cast through the fuse box you have shown? I have similar set up with my livescope and GMS 10 only going to the fuse boxes
Yes it’s tied into my fuse box as well
How did you mount the equipment with minimal holes in the boat? I would like to mount up under my dash, I'm running a skeeter bass boat. My options are limited there without drilling holes through the other side of the dash, or through the side of the boat. Would love to tuck everything up under there but I don't know how to do it without visible screws or bolts on the other side?
They were thru holes. But covered by carpet.
In your situation you could maybe glue a mounting block up there?
@@MGMarineTech Thank you for that - gluing a block was the only idea I could really come up with. I live in Oklahoma and summer temps are in the 90s and 100s, wasn't confident in the glue holding up. But sounds like my best option to try. Thanks man!
what size of non insulated ring terminals would i need for my power cord for a garmin ultra 106 sv ? I have a dual purpose battery with a set of additional smaller post which I think are 1/4 inch , but i am concerned more for the right size of ring terminals to crimp my power cord to .
You need the correct size for the wire you are using and the correct size for the post.
If it’s stock wiring they are 16-18awg
Also you dont show the steady cast nema 2000 set up super close on this video but what I see is you only have one nema port? Everything I have read about installation for the steady cast shows I need 3 nema 2000 ports and two of the end terminators...? One port to hook the steady cast, the 2nd for the cord to run to the unit and the 3rd for power?nLooks like you got away with only one?? That would be much better for me so I am interested.
Take a look at my Nmea 2000 basics video.
It will answer all of those questions and goes into detail on how to set it all up
How do you connect the SteadyCast to you GMS 10 network hub so every thing is networked together?
Hi Douglas, the steady cast sensor operates on the NMEA 2000 network and doesn’t share data over the garmin marine network.
Refer to my NMEA 2000 video for more information on that
Great work! This is my kind of install!!!
Thank you! The new boat will be setup extremely similar! I filmed most of that video just haven’t finished it
With the install of the GMS10 you no longer are connecting any of the screen directly via the back of the chartplotter ports correct? All the screens can link data to each other via the GMS10. So in the end, all three screens, the LiveScope, and the Steady Cast go into the GMS10? Does this make so the Steady cast can be at utilized both at the console and the Bow ? Thanks again. Appreciate it.
So regardless of the gms10 or not, any screen you want to be networked needs to be connected to the “network” meaning it needs to be connected via the ports on the back of the screen or to other screens or a gms10 port expander if you are out of ports. (For instance if you have 2 93uhd’s and livescope and you want everything to be networked, you would need a gms10 because each 93 only has 1 port) please refer to my network video for more info on that.
As far as the steady cast that is on a different network and is not shared over the garmin marine network.
So if you have 3 screens and you all want them to see the steady cast you need to run a NMEA 2000 dropper to each screen. Refer to my nmea 2000 basics video for more info on that.
So what did you use to go from live scope to the gms10? You didn’t show the hook up
I used the cable included in the livescope kit to plug into the gms10.
It’s the same cable you would use to plug it into a screen
@@MGMarineTech awesome thanks we looked at the wrong cord and got messed up but figured it out
Can you network the Echomap Plus 93SV (old one), Echomap UHD 93 SV, and Livescope all together using the GMS10? The older Echomap Plus 93SV does have an Ethernet port? My goal is to be able to see the Livescope on both head units at the same time.
Yes you sure can!
Check out my networking video and it will show you the whole process
Does it make a difference weather your steady cast is tucked back down under things? I assumed it needed to be on top somewhere unobstructed for best performance? I'm have one, I'm adding to my 106sv on my kayak. I'm definitely not drilling holes up on my bow, I have an area I can mount it, right in front of my graph. I could mount it up inside up front also , I just thought that wasn't ideal to be inside of it?? Any suggestions??
It doesn’t need a clear view of the sky.
It’s more important that it’s not close to anything magnetic
Nice install. Finally got my boat after a year of ordering it. Maiden voyage today :) I have watched most of your Garmin videos but realize I need to go through them again. I'm bit confused on the orientation of the Steadycast. My assumption was the arrow pointed to the bow of the boat. But I see comments about it being installed in any orientation. I also assume it needed to be visible. Yours of course is neither. On top of that I have a center console aluminum boat, which I think is a moot point to compasses, at least it is for magnets. I can install it in the center console away from other metal although my trolling motor batteries sit on the bottom. Thoughts?
Hi Paul, I haven’t gotten my steady cast to operate properly yet. But I think it’s my own fault.
The instructions are not very clear on how it should be mounted and they do state “can be mounted in any orientation) and then really make no reference to the arrow which also throws a wrench into things.
The next thing I am going to try is mounting it flat, with the arrow pointed towards the bow. And I’m going to mount mine on the bow.
It does not need a clear view of the sky though.
@@MGMarineTech Curious if you remounted your Steadycast flat and did it all work out?
@@paulleadingham I got a new boat last year and mounted it very similarly, but it had the same issue.
I haven’t revisited it to see if I could fix it
Garmin told me that the echomap 73sv takes 1.5amp but it’s a 3amp what does the gms10 take thanks
The manual states 2 amp fuse.
is the GMS 10 like the black box, in that it constantly draws power when connected to the battery? I know typical switches are "always on" when plugged in. I have LS and two 93 Echomap + units I'm wanting to connect. Main reason is I want to see LiveScope on both bow and stern units. I have the black box and unit on bow hooked up to independent rocker switches. I'd like to avoid adding a third switch if possible, but don't want it to constantly draw power.
You know, I’m not positive on that.
I do know that it’s power light doesn’t turn on until a unit is powered on.
But I don’t know if it draw power while those lights are off.
I would assume if it is drawing power while “off” that it would be a VERY minor amount. Like milliamps and would take months to drain a battery.
Hey brother, thank you for the video. I’m trying to plan my install for my steady cast heading sensor to 3 graphs. Garmin Customer support says you need a t connector and backdrop cable for each graph, 1 t connector for power and 1 more tee connector for the steady cast heading sensor. I noticed your Nmea 2000 backbone install in the video. Can you please explain it. Is there more to your install for the power and other tee connectors? Does the steady cast work for each of your 3 units? Thank you.
Garmin is correct.
You need to run a dropper cable from the backbone to each screen you want to see the steady cast sensor.
I don’t have all the dropper cables ran in my setup right now only the ones that are important that they see the steady cast sensor.
Alright, thanks again.
Do you recommend the steady cast or the gps 24xd for heading sensor ? How has your steady cast held up calibration ?
I think the 24xd is a better unit as it a god antenna as well.
My steady cast has had issues keeping the heading correct, but I think it’s the location of the sensor. I need to move it.
I was told to use shielded wire and insulated wires. yes or no?
Shielded wire doesn’t hurt,
But marine grade is the best
Will ur Gms10 power light come on when ur chart plotter are off?
Love the video, thanks! A bit unrelated, but maybe someone has an opinion. I'm deciding between the GPSMap 8610 and the Echomap Ultra 106. The main thing I think I care about is the extra resolution on the GPSMap (1920x1200) vs (1280x800) which I think would make a difference with the new Livescope Plus. But maybe not? Not sure about other differences I should care about. Thanks.
If it’s in the budget, the 8610 will win in every department
@@MGMarineTech Thanks. The budget is being debated.
Nice setup thats what i would like to do minus where battery is. . I Have 2 93sv echomap plus units networked. One at bow one at console. I bought Garmin livescope and a gms 10. Have an 2006 Ranger is it possible to put the gms 10 and livescope black box under my console instead of putting in the rod locker up at bow. Like your setup. Mine are not uhd so they only have one port. Also will i still need the gt52 transducer along with the livescope transducer? I'm assuming i do to get 2d, clearvu and side imaging. Just looking for most accessible and easiest setup. Would like to do your setup but not sure i can. Thanks
Hey Keith!
You can mount the gms10 and gls10 anywhere you would like.
You will just have to get the correct length network cables. If you mount the gms10 under to console like I show you will need a 20’ and a 6’ cable.
The livescope will have its own cable in the box.
As far as the gt52 transducer I would keep it as you can run both at the same time
@@MGMarineTech that’s a garmin network cable correct? I’ll have to find a couple online.
@@MGMarineTech I’m gonna have to rewatch your video a few times so I know exactly how I’m going to do it.
@@keithhudson5000 yes the garmin network cables are waterproof and highly recommended.
Check out my networking video it will walk you through that process.
As far as the cables check out Hennessy outdoor electronics they will be able to get you what you need.
Tell them I sent you
@@MGMarineTech ok thank you
When do you think you will do a video of installing the LiveScope?
I can do one here soon, on the new boat
I have a garmin Echomap network made of gms10, 2-Echomap UHD 93sv, a 106 Echomap ultra, a GT56 transducer, and Livescope connected all together. Is the Garmin steady cast heading sensor working for you? The reason I am asking is because I am considering incorporating one on my network. I have read amazon of customers having issues with the UHD Echomap graphs. Please advise. Thank you.
The steady cast sensor operates in the NMEA 2000 network and it will NOT share its data to other units that are on the garmin marine network. For each device that you want to see the steady cast a dropper cable from the nmea2000 network backbone must be added.
For more info on building a NMEA 2000 backbone and the basics on them take a look at my “NMEA 2000 basics” video.
As far as how the steady cast has worked for me? Well.. to be honest, when it work it’s great. The only issue I have is that it seems to loose the calibration very easily.
That being said, I’m 98% sure it’s user error on my part and just a bad or incorrect mounting location.
I am going to be moving my steady cast to the front of my boat laying flat with the arrow pointing straight forward. I believe this should fix my issue.
@@MGMarineTech thanks
My live scope keeps saying source not found check network
What about the ground connection in the GLS10 box?
The main ground goes to the fuse box as well.
Is that the ground you were referring to?
@@MGMarineTech I’m referring to the ground connection that in front of the black box. Is next to the red plug. Is a silver connection your supposed to crimp a ground wire to. But where does it go to? Can it be left alone? What about in a portable cooler setup?
@@abnergarcia6252 that is the “water ground” 99% of installs it’s not needed and can be left alone.
@@MGMarineTech thank you so much for your help!
Where did you get the fuses
The fuses themselves can be found at local parts stores.
The fuses panel I got on Amazon
where did you get the fuse box?
It’s a blue seas, I think I order it off of Amazon
Did you have any trouble with your steady cast sensor calibration ???
I didn’t have problems getting a calibration, but I did have a problem keeping a calibration.
I think it was a mounting location issue.
I’m going to be trying a new location on the new boat.
@@MGMarineTech I’m only getting like 28-32 Iv got it mounted about where you were showing yours, what are you thinking for new location
@@ClearviewOutdoors the new location will be very similar but further away from things that can cause magnetic interference. I think I got 9-13 with mine before.
Thank you!
Where did you mount the steady cast?
When crimping you should crimp the point on the split oposite of what he has told you.
Not According to the manufacture of the crimpers.
“Orientation of the terminal within the tool is always key to a good crimp. Hollingsworth hand tools create indentor style crimps, which means that the tool pushes an indentor into the terminal to create the crimp. It is imperative that the barrel seam face away from the indentor (or opposite), otherwise the force from the indentor will create an opening at the seam.”’
How I showed it is proper. You don’t want the indenter to possibly split the seam which is why you crimp on the opposite side of the seam.
For other styles of terminals that “wrap” the the connector around the wire you are correct.
I'm using a nmea2000. I got the starter kit. Can you break that down step for step?
What are you trying to hook to the nema 2000 network?
I'm hooking up a 93sv and a 73sv. Both panoptix and livescope.
@@victorpritchett9814 what nema device are you hooking to them though?
Steady cast? Etc?
The nema 2000 network doesn’t share any kind of data or waypoints or transducers etc
To do that you will want to create a garmin marine network. My networking video explains everything you will need and how to do it
@@MGMarineTech I'm new to this and your videos are very instructive. The adapter you are talking about is a little pricey. I'm looking at a little less pricey and little more affordable. I'm new to all of this so be patient with me. Lol...you seem to know what you are doing, that's why I watch your videos.
@@victorpritchett9814 you will need to have some kind of network expander.
There are a couple of cheaper options on the market, you will want to find a network box that excepts 12v dc.
The down side is that they aren’t waterproof so you have to take special care mounting it etc .