My best luck at seized bolts has been, soak with penetrating oil, let sit, spray again, wipe away excess drips, heat with torch. Penetrating oil will light, that’s fine, be careful of surrounding items. Once good and hot hit it with CRC Freeze-Off, many times you will hear a audible pop as the bolt loosens, immediately use wrench/extractor to remove, this has worked on severely rusted bolts on high mileage cars from the rust-belt Northeast US.
Great ideas! BUT ! 50 + years as a mechanic on industrial equipment has its unique problems ? 1/3 of the time we had to drill out the bolt and collapse the threads or drill and tap the thread hole again ! Some bolts were broken off for years and became one with the metal! There is always a way for a repair, it’s just about the time , money and knowledge of doing it . Thanks for the video!
Can you break off an exhaust bolt that’s actually in a car where you don’t have the broken stud in a vice and all the room in the world to get it out? You know real life situation.
Got that on my Commodore and its L76 from prevous owner. Passenger side rear bolt on the exhaust header broken off below the surface. No access and heat is a bad idea with the fuel rails in that area. Heads off is the only way this bugger is coming out. 😢
First! You showed us a broken stud that was broken off even with the surface. Then, when you welded your choice of a gripper to it you showed a stud that was sticking out. What's up with that!? "cheers!"
As a mechanic , retired, we use to heat the broken bolt with a torch to red hot and cool with water right away. Most would just turn out easy because the rust holding it was broken free.
If you have a bolt stuck up like the one he showed, chuck up your drill and put heat in it bolt. Reverse it straight out. If have to drill the bolt, drive a torque bit into the hole and then use it in a drill or wrench to back it out after heat. You can drill it and use a soldering iron to heat it if it is in magnesium. I specifically use these methods for my work. I’m a pneumatic tool technician and the official broke fastener extraction engineer. The tools that I work on are aluminum or magnesium bodies with socket head bolts. Some of the tools are $500 for an empty body.
Thanks for the Tig welding method. I saw another way of putting a short bit of copper tube in the hole first before adding weld to the bolt. keep adding filler to bring it up to the surface. then do your washer method. Do you like that idea?
I saw the video sometime back when. Then this week it happened, the $300 pool pump I was working on sheared clean off flat to the surface. I hacked on it with the usual combination of anti-sieze, and trying to turn it with a chisel, no luck. I drilled the middle, slipping once and drilling the pump instead. After making the center hole, I used an extractor. The tip of it is still in the bolt, since it, too, sheared off nicely. I remembered I'd seen a video on this, so looked it up. The first try was to weld a nut with a circular flat. It too, sheared, but I figured that weld was not too good. The biggest problem was getting electrical contact with the motor, which took lots of wire brushing before it worked. For the second try, I used the washer method. I like that a lot better, since it allows you to get a good weld to the bolt first. Then I welded the nut on. Lots of slowly applied torque and off it came. Thanks!
Keep the videos coming. They are super handy and really well shot/edited. This ones timely as I'm about to try to replace a BMW exhaust manifold with some broken studs.
Video not helpful at all. You started off with a stud broken beneath the surface and then suddenly you switch to a much easier problem-a protruding stud.
Use your grinder to make a large flat head screwdriver notch in the stuck bolt. Yes you will notch a small amount of metal around the thread. If this still works for your situation you go ahead and heat up the stud and then use your large flat head to unscrew the hot bolt.
Your demo did not relate to the very tricky situation you presented us with (a bolt sheered off below the surface). Unless you show us your technique of welding that recessed stud to the washer and then to the nut, how can we amateurs copy what you are doing? All you showed us was you welding a nut to a thread that was magically well above the surface. I’m not sure what to make of it or how to do it.
What if changing the valve (aka camshaft) cover and the bolt right next to the timing chain breaks off. You can't weld the valve cover bolts stuck down in there can you? Thanks
First thing I try is to heat up (if it’s allowed) and then quickly cooling it off. Then I dill a hole all the way through the bolt if possible to release pressure. Then depends on the size of the bolt welding, drilling bigger hole and breaking threads inside, going for helicoil. Really there is no right answer, depends on place you have, your stress level etc. I know one thing when bolt goes off it can take 5 min. to take it out or several hours.
Woah, wtf happened between 6.08 and 6.09 ?! I take it another bolt body or threaded rod was cut and inserted into nut then conductive heat welded it together? Or was entire piece rendered molten? I'm not a welder obvs. Was the washer tacked on first?
I've got a bolt broken off in the aluminum head of one of my cars. I've tried welding to it, and not it has broken off so many times it's below the surface with a hardened drill bit broken off in the hole I drilled in it when I was going to try a bolt extractor. So, I'm pretty much to step 6 now. lol
You might need to use a carbide tipped masonry bit if you have an ezeout or stud extractor stuck in it to drill it out. They are the only drill bits that will drill that type of hardened steel
It's much more challenging when you live somewhere they salt the roads in winter and the bolt/stud has been broken for a few winters, like an exhaust manifold stud
These are great videos Broomy! Plenty of good know how on 'we've all been there' shed moments i.e. Breaking a bolt, 5 beers in on a Saturday night, before a planned cruise on Sunday morning. I'd love to have the gear to give the welding method a crack - but will stick with my run of the mill Bunnings kits (for the not so serious stuff) and your final method for now. Cheers!
You obviously haven't had to remove the 8 exhaust studs on a suzuki bandit . On an average 3 snap . I've tried the weld method and had partial success . Ive started with about 10 mm above the surface and ended up below the surface and a bucket full of welded washers and nuts . I'm not peeing on ya bonfire but some methods work most of the time but not all the time ..
Easy outs never worked for me not once and if they break they are not soft metal so your not drilling through those....The fluted ones worked for me to get a broken spark plug out of a cylinder. The best method that actually works for me everytime is the weld the nut to the stud method.
And I keep telling my pendejo friend to do that, fucking dude don't listen man!!!! I bought the extension and bits but,thick head bro!!!! Yes it's a tight squeeze it's on a 2008 town and country Chrysler van smh this gets me mad cause he's one of them people that want your help yet you tell them and it's a no won't work work. Thanks man I'll show him this maybe he'll be convinced.
why didn't you scream at it after you got it out? things like, "thought so" or "why did you put me through this" or "you stupid little bit*h" or "i hate you" flipping it off is good too. plus if your neighbor see you in that mode, they'll give you space and go inside. but, if you want to keep it going you can ask, "what are you looking at"
He didn't actually show how to weld a washer and nut onto a stud broken inside the hole like he said he would, all he did was weld a nut onto a stud/ bolt sticking out from the hole 6:07. Anyone with a welder could do that.
I'm trying to learn, but what I see in the welding example is a stud going through the nut.... That's not what your supposed to be showing me. Where's the example where the bolt is broken off
Alright, 2 things to have on hand you say? OK Lube and Plenty of Hate you say? That's a big "Can Do" here on this side a the globe Mate! I got plenty a candle wax for the lube part a your plan and bein I'm a 60 year old Boomer, I gotta gawdamn surplus a hate to keep me goin so (it keeps me warm) I shouldn't ever have a busted bolt ever again, a right?
Hi everyone, thanks for watching. Remember, if you could click the share button, and share with your friends on Facebook it would mean a lot 👍🏻
My best luck at seized bolts has been, soak with penetrating oil, let sit, spray again, wipe away excess drips, heat with torch. Penetrating oil will light, that’s fine, be careful of surrounding items. Once good and hot hit it with CRC Freeze-Off, many times you will hear a audible pop as the bolt loosens, immediately use wrench/extractor to remove, this has worked on severely rusted bolts on high mileage cars from the rust-belt Northeast US.
To confirm heat with a torch, then hit it with the crc freeze right after?! I'm about to give this a try!
Great ideas! BUT ! 50 + years as a mechanic on industrial equipment has its unique problems ? 1/3 of the time we had to drill out the bolt and collapse the threads or drill and tap the thread hole again ! Some bolts were broken off for years and became one with the metal! There is always a way for a repair, it’s just about the time , money and knowledge of doing it . Thanks for the video!
Can you break off an exhaust bolt that’s actually in a car where you don’t have the broken stud in a vice and all the room in the world to get it out? You know real life situation.
Right what do you do in this situation?
Got that on my Commodore and its L76 from prevous owner. Passenger side rear bolt on the exhaust header broken off below the surface. No access and heat is a bad idea with the fuel rails in that area. Heads off is the only way this bugger is coming out. 😢
For me, I'd wind up removing the manifold. The older vehicles from. the 80's were a guarantee you'd be replacing exhaust studs.
My situation is kinda the same a bolt that wouldn't be so easy in real world application, yet I understand his educational purpose here
First! You showed us a broken stud that was broken off even with the surface. Then, when you welded your choice of a gripper to it you showed a stud that was sticking out. What's up with that!? "cheers!"
Yeah, crap video.
Great video. I agree with you at 1:24 that HATE will get the job done.
As a mechanic , retired, we use to heat the broken bolt with a torch to red hot and cool with water right away. Most would just turn out easy because the rust holding it was broken free.
The best method by far is method number 7...EXPLOSIVES!!💣💥
If you have a bolt stuck up like the one he showed, chuck up your drill and put heat in it bolt. Reverse it straight out.
If have to drill the bolt, drive a torque bit into the hole and then use it in a drill or wrench to back it out after heat. You can drill it and use a soldering iron to heat it if it is in magnesium. I specifically use these methods for my work. I’m a pneumatic tool technician and the official broke fastener extraction engineer. The tools that I work on are aluminum or magnesium bodies with socket head bolts. Some of the tools are $500 for an empty body.
Thanks for the Tig welding method. I saw another way of putting a short bit of copper tube in the hole first before adding weld to the bolt. keep adding filler to bring it up to the surface. then do your washer method. Do you like that idea?
Copper, aluminum any non ferrous metal will work for that 👍🏻
I seen that also! Sounds like a win.
How come when you started welding the nut, the thread magically appeared?
Good catch
I saw the video sometime back when. Then this week it happened, the $300 pool pump I was working on sheared clean off flat to the surface. I hacked on it with the usual combination of anti-sieze, and trying to turn it with a chisel, no luck. I drilled the middle, slipping once and drilling the pump instead. After making the center hole, I used an extractor. The tip of it is still in the bolt, since it, too, sheared off nicely.
I remembered I'd seen a video on this, so looked it up. The first try was to weld a nut with a circular flat. It too, sheared, but I figured that weld was not too good. The biggest problem was getting electrical contact with the motor, which took lots of wire brushing before it worked. For the second try, I used the washer method. I like that a lot better, since it allows you to get a good weld to the bolt first. Then I welded the nut on. Lots of slowly applied torque and off it came.
Thanks!
Keep the videos coming. They are super handy and really well shot/edited.
This ones timely as I'm about to try to replace a BMW exhaust manifold with some broken studs.
I like the method, but the stud you removed was not the one you broke below the surface.
Bit strange flush break and the stud has reappeared when it came to welding it to the nut .. I guess camera trickery
Video not helpful at all. You started off with a stud broken beneath the surface and then suddenly you switch to a much easier problem-a protruding stud.
Use your grinder to make a large flat head screwdriver notch in the stuck bolt. Yes you will notch a small amount of metal around the thread. If this still works for your situation you go ahead and heat up the stud and then use your large flat head to unscrew the hot bolt.
I wasn't sure if I would follow until you killed it with fire. Excellent work
Your demo did not relate to the very tricky situation you presented us with (a bolt sheered off below the surface). Unless you show us your technique of welding that recessed stud to the washer and then to the nut, how can we amateurs copy what you are doing? All you showed us was you welding a nut to a thread that was magically well above the surface. I’m not sure what to make of it or how to do it.
7th method. Get someone else to do it lol
Loving the videos mate.
What if changing the valve (aka camshaft) cover and the bolt right next to the timing chain breaks off. You can't weld the valve cover bolts stuck down in there can you? Thanks
Works every time, 60% of the time.
First thing I try is to heat up (if it’s allowed) and then quickly cooling it off. Then I dill a hole all the way through the bolt if possible to release pressure. Then depends on the size of the bolt welding, drilling bigger hole and breaking threads inside, going for helicoil. Really there is no right answer, depends on place you have, your stress level etc. I know one thing when bolt goes off it can take 5 min. to take it out or several hours.
Woah, wtf happened between 6.08 and 6.09 ?! I take it another bolt body or threaded rod was cut and inserted into nut then conductive heat welded it together? Or was entire piece rendered molten? I'm not a welder obvs. Was the washer tacked on first?
ok great
now where do you get replacement bolts from????
Very helpful thank you
What if you're on a engine head at an angle. Where the boat goes down through the intake at 45°. How to fix that
are truck updates gonna be on fullboost or here from now on?
All the project car stuff is still on fullboost. Still making plenty of other content on there as well. This channel is for all my other stuff 👍🏻
Great video thanks!
I've got a bolt broken off in the aluminum head of one of my cars. I've tried welding to it, and not it has broken off so many times it's below the surface with a hardened drill bit broken off in the hole I drilled in it when I was going to try a bolt extractor. So, I'm pretty much to step 6 now. lol
You might need to use a carbide tipped masonry bit if you have an ezeout or stud extractor stuck in it to drill it out. They are the only drill bits that will drill that type of hardened steel
It's much more challenging when you live somewhere they salt the roads in winter and the bolt/stud has been broken for a few winters, like an exhaust manifold stud
What about a 1mm copper wire sheared off inside an M1 die?
Nothing protruding either end.
No lathe or drill press.
Fire is my first go to
I do like fire 🔥
These are great videos Broomy! Plenty of good know how on 'we've all been there' shed moments i.e. Breaking a bolt, 5 beers in on a Saturday night, before a planned cruise on Sunday morning. I'd love to have the gear to give the welding method a crack - but will stick with my run of the mill Bunnings kits (for the not so serious stuff) and your final method for now. Cheers!
Great vid mate!
I saw that rotor housing with the broken bolt on the thumbnail and cringed so hard glad you were able to save it
How much is a stick welder like that?
You obviously haven't had to remove the 8 exhaust studs on a suzuki bandit . On an average 3 snap . I've tried the weld method and had partial success . Ive started with about 10 mm above the surface and ended up below the surface and a bucket full of welded washers and nuts . I'm not peeing on ya bonfire but some methods work most of the time but not all the time ..
What do you do with dielectric fused metals ??? I've been screwed over time and I don't know what you think about this 🤔🤔
Easy outs never worked for me not once and if they break they are not soft metal so your not drilling through those....The fluted ones worked for me to get a broken spark plug out of a cylinder. The best method that actually works for me everytime is the weld the nut to the stud method.
They make a welding rod called stud rods to do the job.
Nice 👍🏻 !
I got a bolt broken off down in the hole and the bolt is to hard to drill. I have tried everything with no luck.
Pb blaster is the best penetrating fluid
Exactly what I would have said!
Mine is broken off at an angle down in the block head!
Stand in easy one was used.
Bonus end method. 😂
And I keep telling my pendejo friend to do that, fucking dude don't listen man!!!! I bought the extension and bits but,thick head bro!!!! Yes it's a tight squeeze it's on a 2008 town and country Chrysler van smh this gets me mad cause he's one of them people that want your help yet you tell them and it's a no won't work work. Thanks man I'll show him this maybe he'll be convinced.
Wimped out on welding the washer to a recessed steel bold in a aluminum part. Your all talk?
Fire kill is step one. Step two is throw things at it while it burns.
All other methods need not be entered into.
why didn't you scream at it after you got it out? things like, "thought so" or "why did you put me through this" or "you stupid little bit*h" or "i hate you" flipping it off is good too. plus if your neighbor see you in that mode, they'll give you space and go inside. but, if you want to keep it going you can ask, "what are you looking at"
He didn't actually show how to weld a washer and nut onto a stud broken inside the hole like he said he would, all he did was weld a nut onto a stud/ bolt sticking out from the hole 6:07. Anyone with a welder could do that.
Can you use a torch lol😆🤷🏾♂️??
I'm trying to learn, but what I see in the welding example is a stud going through the nut.... That's not what your supposed to be showing me. Where's the example where the bolt is broken off
But when the bolt is broken of I have immediate hate 🤔
Everyone here failed to mention the two best methods to remove a broken, seized bolt. 1.Paraffin Wax.
2. Heat and Quench. you are welcome
5:17
You are welcome.
All these videos people have the item on a table. Real world when a waterpump bolt breaks ya can’t even get to.
No silver bullet for broken bolts, they are all different
I broke a head stud
I was once the envy of most women until I put on 100lbs. Then my girlfriend left me. I'm now a broken stud.
You had me until the dumb stunt at the end. People looking for solutions to mechanical problems are generally not up for bad comedy bits.
You're a real stick in the mud aren't ya?
NOT
With a little reality cussing there
😂😂😂
Really haha!
And don't forget the video was done on a wankel engine...😅😅😅😅oh, and lets not wish the stud is cross threaded...yikes....😊
Try using a #2 pencil….and draw it out!
That's constipation.
Also I have broken off easyouts in the engine....hardened metals.... impossible to drill out....
Not impossible, just need the right drill bit. The masonry bits with carbide heads will drill hardened steel.
Alright, 2 things to have on hand you say? OK Lube and Plenty of Hate you say? That's a big "Can Do" here on this side a the globe Mate! I got plenty a candle wax for the lube part a your plan and bein I'm a 60 year old Boomer, I gotta gawdamn surplus a hate to keep me goin so (it keeps me warm) I shouldn't ever have a busted bolt ever again, a right?