Good job as allways , I've changed my blades to the Olfa black coloured type, they are much better as they are sharpened at a steeper angle and they are thinner, that and a 6 inch dry wall knife with the sharp edges and corners sanded of used as a guide really helps against the wet paper snagging and tearing
Great job, made it look easy!…, I was thinking of the arm & neck ache that you must get doing ceiling jobs! (Although you probably get used to it as I did when I was a mechanic) 👍
Good. To. See. You. Using. A. Knife. To. Cut. That. Edge. Some. Things. It's. Far. Two. Tricky. With. Sissers.. Plus. Sometimes. You. Need. To move. With the. Times. I'm. 45. Years. At. The. Game. And there's. Been. A. Good. View. Changes. In. That time..
Can I please ask you, iv got a job coming up. Lining all walls with this wallrock paper. Then just paint over afterwards. Do you still need a central line to fallow? I mean their is no pattern and the paper does not have to bead straight? I have to prep the walls, sand fill. Do I need to do anything else? Thank you.
Came here to ask if you would pva the ceiling before painting? I've been prepping a >100yr old bathroom ceiling (following your methods in your other videos) but couldn't recall if you pva'd the ceiling you did. I'm just about to fill the bigger cracks. I'm not papering, just going to use a tub of Polycell Smoothover which I've had for years and never used. Finish isn't too important as it'll be above a tented ceiling. Should I pva the whole ceiling or not, and if so, before or after filling the cracks? Thank you for your videos, they're helping me no end!
Nice job i love ceiling papering but i run a bead of caulk in all the internal corners this is so when i trim the paper my blade is cutting caulk not the plaster .
Managed to line a couple ceilings with 1m wide wallrock and only a thin single batton.. Never again my arms still ache ! 75cm wallrock is wide enough for ceilings.
Good morning just watched your video at times really sorry to say but it was painful. We used to teach this all day long at the tech college some points maybe worth mentioning is why we work away from the main source of light . This harps back to the days of trimming paper by hand when you couldn’t always get a perfect joint by doing it this way no shadow would be cast if a joint lapped however theses days this is not so much of a problem with factory trimming.We would always teach dependant on which hand you are to hang with that arm under the joint this way you are not working across your body and have far better control. Cutting with a knife is debatable at times it is the only way however we always encouraged the use of scissors (shears) Whilst cutting around a ceiling patrttress especially lining paper go past the “star cut” by 10mm or more this can then be revisited and marked perfectly to the shape it will not show considering you have a complete joint which in essence is identical . Ceilings when mastered are one of the easiest areas to paper. This is by no means a knock of your video however certain aspects could be made slightly easier Always work to a line flicked not a cornice or edge Always work away from the light Thick paste makes life a lot easier and thorough pasting no dry edges as soon as this concertina starts to open those edges start to dry. Concertina fold not massive folds until more experienced Use of a “crutch” this is what we call a support Always keep the “crutch”as close to the ceiling as possible this way you won’t have paper around your ears Some kind of scaffold ie plank and steps under that joint Any trimming always fold up and throw out the way to the same area nothing worse than hopping of your plank to go arse over tit on wet paper Happy papering😀👍keep up the good work.
You're working from the main light source (ie: the main window) is good practice, those who know why.. know.. but those who don't need to be told in why it's was done like that. Still good to start from the window even these days. Lining paper does rip easy with a blade, I find shears better when doing ceilings and lining paper. Keep up the good work, nice video.
Wallrock lining is so much better than the normal cheap lining paper cuts lovely and covers more imperfections
Your audio is brilliant now thanks and a happy new year
Thanks will try keep it up.... happy New Year
Always like your videos. Great advice etc.
Thank you.
Good job as allways , I've changed my blades to the Olfa black coloured type, they are much better as they are sharpened at a steeper angle and they are thinner, that and a 6 inch dry wall knife with the sharp edges and corners sanded of used as a guide really helps against the wet paper snagging and tearing
A good informative video.
Cheers mate
man, that was a genuine masterclass.
Thank you
Great job, made it look easy!…, I was thinking of the arm & neck ache that you must get doing ceiling jobs! (Although you probably get used to it as I did when I was a mechanic) 👍
Cheers... always gets you a little..
Olfa Wallpaper Cutter MT-1/WP Olfa MT-1 is the only cutter made specifically for cutting wallpaper effortlessly. ive never looked back top knife.
Great stuff.
Thanks.
Good. To. See. You. Using. A. Knife. To. Cut. That. Edge. Some. Things. It's. Far. Two. Tricky. With. Sissers.. Plus. Sometimes. You. Need. To move. With the. Times. I'm. 45. Years. At. The. Game. And there's. Been. A. Good. View. Changes. In. That time..
An Olfa snap blade or similar quality blade not a stanley
Can I please ask you, iv got a job coming up. Lining all walls with this wallrock paper. Then just paint over afterwards. Do you still need a central line to fallow? I mean their is no pattern and the paper does not have to bead straight? I have to prep the walls, sand fill. Do I need to do anything else? Thank you.
Came here to ask if you would pva the ceiling before painting? I've been prepping a >100yr old bathroom ceiling (following your methods in your other videos) but couldn't recall if you pva'd the ceiling you did. I'm just about to fill the bigger cracks. I'm not papering, just going to use a tub of Polycell Smoothover which I've had for years and never used. Finish isn't too important as it'll be above a tented ceiling. Should I pva the whole ceiling or not, and if so, before or after filling the cracks? Thank you for your videos, they're helping me no end!
We usually wet in cracks before filling, then when sanded we go ove the lot.. diluted PVA important... Milky water.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thank you for your reply. Yes, I dampen before filling too.
Nice job i love ceiling papering but i run a bead of caulk in all the internal corners this is so when i trim the paper my blade is cutting caulk not the plaster .
yes your right is a good job
Managed to line a couple ceilings with 1m wide wallrock and only a thin single batton..
Never again my arms still ache !
75cm wallrock is wide enough for ceilings.
Great job but I took my ceiling rose off better job less fuss
The first thing I noticed he was doing wrong
That's the first thing I do
Good morning just watched your video at times really sorry to say but it was painful. We used to teach this all day long at the tech college some points maybe worth mentioning is why we work away from the main source of light . This harps back to the days of trimming paper by hand when you couldn’t always get a perfect joint by doing it this way no shadow would be cast if a joint lapped however theses days this is not so much of a problem with factory trimming.We would always teach dependant on which hand you are to hang with that arm under the joint this way you are not working across your body and have far better control. Cutting with a knife is debatable at times it is the only way however we always encouraged the use of scissors (shears)
Whilst cutting around a ceiling patrttress especially lining paper go past the “star cut” by 10mm or more this can then be revisited and marked perfectly to the shape it will not show considering you have a complete joint which in essence is identical .
Ceilings when mastered are one of the easiest areas to paper.
This is by no means a knock of your video however certain aspects could be made slightly easier
Always work to a line flicked not a cornice or edge
Always work away from the light
Thick paste makes life a lot easier and thorough pasting no dry edges as soon as this concertina starts to open those edges start to dry.
Concertina fold not massive folds until more experienced
Use of a “crutch” this is what we call a support
Always keep the “crutch”as close to the ceiling as possible this way you won’t have paper around your ears
Some kind of scaffold ie plank and steps under that joint
Any trimming always fold up and throw out the way to the same area nothing worse than hopping of your plank to go arse over tit on wet paper
Happy papering😀👍keep up the good work.
I always remove light fitting saves struggling ? And plug in a spot lamp .
You're working from the main light source (ie: the main window) is good practice, those who know why.. know.. but those who don't need to be told in why it's was done like that. Still good to start from the window even these days.
Lining paper does rip easy with a blade, I find shears better when doing ceilings and lining paper.
Keep up the good work, nice video.
What about the technique of measuring from the ceiling rose to the starting point so you have two lengths bisecting the rose. Great video.
That would make it easier to cut around the rose, but the light is likely to make the joint show.
What grade of lining paper was that?