@@michelleparkhurst458 My preferred anchor in tile is the Toggler Alligator anchor - which requires a 5/16 inch hole. If you're installing onto drywall - try to hit a stud at one end and use Toggler Snap-Toggles on the other.
Before I installed my towel bar I made sure there was a stud behind it. There are stud finders that help you locate studs behind tile as well as water pipes.
You shouldn't have used a spirit level for the rail, it should have been taken off the decorative trim band. You can see in the setup @ 2:44 that it is not level with the decorative band. At the finish @ 6:58 you can see the rail is closer to the decorative band on the right hand side. This is what the eye is drawn to.
@@AlleyPicked Yes I did, I also found giving the material time to cool and dry inside the hole helps as well, drill, take a break, drill take a break. Other materials stone tile, ceramics....cuts through like butter.
Okay, but you completely ignored how to attach the other end, the harder end, that is NOT into a stud since it is 23.5 inches. How did you do that. Poorly done.
Lets see your video Jay, .... If you know your studs are on 16's, it's fairly obvious you'll need some kind of anchor bolt. He probably used a toggle (preferred) or a plastic wall anchor. You too Vlad!
Please note that he has clearly marked that the stud was horizontal (probably installed before the tile just for this purpose.) I found this very helpful as I'm a bit worried about drilling into my expensive, very hard, porcelain tile without cracking. I've never used a diamond drill bit before and this was very helpful.
Not verticle studs. Depending on your location terminology he was attaching to a dwang or a nog which are horizontal. What I wanted to know is if this is the wet area of the shower what process is require to ensure the integrity of the water proofing is not lost.
Perfect installation I appreciate it and the wall anchors that come with it will be very useful for concrete brick and block walls. 😎😎
Great demonstration.
Fantastic macgyver skills 😎
Thank you very informative, short and clear now my husband will fulfill my wish
My stud finder is having a hard time ACCURATELY finding studs. I need to know if I need all Mollies or not
First, install a horizonal stud behind the tile . . .
I did like the drilling tips though
Thanks. I did put a horizontal stud behind mine.
Do you think the starters are unnecessary? I am completely new at this, and I don't want to break my wall. Thanks.
What do you mean by "starters"?
@@AlleyPicked the pointed tool to start the hole
Use some silicone in and around those holes. Many/most times, you're not going to hit a stud... so plan on using other types of anchors.,
What kind of anchors can be used??
@@michelleparkhurst458 My preferred anchor in tile is the Toggler Alligator anchor - which requires a 5/16 inch hole. If you're installing onto drywall - try to hit a stud at one end and use Toggler Snap-Toggles on the other.
How do you know where the stud is?!
This towel bar looks nice. What is the brand.
Great video! Love the drawing. One question, what if you're not hitting studs???
The only choice is wall anchors. There are all types. This might be a helpful video...th-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/w-d-xo.html
How do you make sure you don’t hit pipes?
Before I installed my towel bar I made sure there was a stud behind it. There are stud finders that help you locate studs behind tile as well as water pipes.
Where did you get that specific towel bar?
Home Depot
Did it rust being exposed to direct water?
It's still up and looks like the day I installed it. Maybe because it was a good quality item.
You shouldn't have used a spirit level for the rail, it should have been taken off the decorative trim band. You can see in the setup @ 2:44 that it is not level with the decorative band. At the finish @ 6:58 you can see the rail is closer to the decorative band on the right hand side. This is what the eye is drawn to.
I spent $20-$30 on a diamond drill bit only to drill 4 holes on the thick tiles and have no use of it again. lol
Gotta spay the bit with water as you're drilling, keeps the bit cool and the dust down.
$ 28.00 + per bit, the bit only lasts 2 holes, takes 20 minutes to drill 1 hole. It works...but prepare yourself.
Some bits are better than others. Did you keep water on the bit when drilling?
@@AlleyPicked Yes I did, I also found giving the material time to cool and dry inside the hole helps as well, drill, take a break, drill take a break. Other materials stone tile, ceramics....cuts through like butter.
thats a rough tile job, hopefully he wasnt recommended for any future jobs
Okay, but you completely ignored how to attach the other end, the harder end, that is NOT into a stud since it is 23.5 inches. How did you do that. Poorly done.
Studs are 16" on center, not 23 like Jay said. Makes no sense for the avg DIYer
Lets see your video Jay, .... If you know your studs are on 16's, it's fairly obvious you'll need some kind of anchor bolt. He probably used a toggle (preferred) or a plastic wall anchor. You too Vlad!
It's a well-done video, but I thought the anchor would have been worth mentioning.
Please note that he has clearly marked that the stud was horizontal (probably installed before the tile just for this purpose.) I found this very helpful as I'm a bit worried about drilling into my expensive, very hard, porcelain tile without cracking. I've never used a diamond drill bit before and this was very helpful.
Not verticle studs. Depending on your location terminology he was attaching to a dwang or a nog which are horizontal. What I wanted to know is if this is the wet area of the shower what process is require to ensure the integrity of the water proofing is not lost.