Damaged LT230. Replacement box is on, flushing the transmissions - a long messy job, but worth it!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ม.ค. 2020
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UPDATE!! The flushing worked a treat! Just been for a test run and the R380 is very smooth and no noise, LT230 quiet too - Job done!
Mike
Sweet, well done Mike :)
So in the great MTF vs ATF for an R380, it's agreed that ATF is best now isnt it?
@@bubblyjuice6234 I chatted with Dave Ashcroft and they suggest ATF
the spilt oil will stop the concrete floor rusting
Only LandRover would put a drain plug above a cross member.
I made a custom fit sheet metal chute to run the flow off the cross member and into the drain pan.
The way that gearbox is draining it seems the breathers could be blocked.
Expensive, but you can use the last flushes from each unit as first flushes in other transmissions to reduce the waste. Still not cheap, but much more affordable than a transmission rebuild!
I can run the decent oil through my centrifuge
Britannica Restorations Ltd -Ahh, clever!
Mike, you know, this one came exactly in the right time - seams the 130ty needs exact that - will let you know! Thanx a lot ! Cheers Axel
I think this is the 4th time I flushed the R380 on different trucks and saved stripping it - worth a go!
Hi Mike very well done as always very great work very many thanks Eliot
The flush worked a treat and the R380 is silky smooth with no noise
Will do a road test this weekend
...was I the only one who heard Johnny Mathis singing "this comes to pass, when a gear is torn"....
Nice one!
I see what you did there
My mother was a huge Johnny Mathas fan. I was subjected to it most weekends, loaded in the back of her CITROEN DS safari, eight track booming out! My favorite is evil ways... Lol
Lol!
Definitely a good job done👍
Good news! The R380 is silky smooth and works well LT230 is lovely!
Messy job but worth it
Mike
my old brother in law (former RTR tank driver/mechanic) used to filter old ATF and then mix it approx 1 to 1 with alcohol or acetone and store it in air tight spray bottles and use it as a rust freeing oil...... I remember him shaking well before use as it would separate....
Hmm!!
Could be construed as a waste of Alcohol!! lol
@@jameslindley924
I guess that a good glass of 99% pure isopropyl would leave you in a wooden box within 4 hours....
@@MARTINA-gc3tq
Aye!! Bit like a 4 hour Binge Drinking session i guess.
I think you need to invest in a waste oil burner to heat your workshop Mike ! Interesting results mind I’m off to change my oil. 😁
We are not allowed to burn waste oil here - but we can burn wood - go figure!
Anyway the flush worked a treat ! Silky smooth shifts - video this weekend
3 time is the magic number. When I worked in the Pharmaceutical Industry and we were cleaning vessels we always flushed at least 3 times, the logic is straigtforward;
Say the contaminated fraction of the oil at the start is 1% , that is 1% by weight or volume is muck and metal and say when you drain the oil you get 95% of it out.
starting contamination is 1%
after first wash you get out 95% of 1% contanimation ,that is 0.95% of the contamination removed so 0.05% of muck left
after second wash you get out 95% of 0.05%, which is 0.0475% so 0.0025% of contamination is left
after the final wash you get 95% of 0.0025% which is 0.002375 so 0.000125% or 125 ppm (parts per million) of muck left.
Each wash here gives a 20 fold reduction in contamination (at 95% removal)
the key as you realised is to mix thorougly and drain as much of the oil out each time.
It took me all day to do this - mind you my shop was hot by the time I was done!
Ran for about 2 hours, drain, refill and another 2 hours etc
Somehow I do not think this 110 was serviced in quite a while..
Thanks for your comment
Mike
I think you need a magnetic base with a flexible arm to hook your camera onto the chassis or cross member and be able to work with ease, Mike.
I never realised how much gear you need for YT - I use a camcorder which is a bit heavy, but has an easy zoom for bench work (when I get it right!)
Hey Mike. I've done something similar quite awhile ago but with Diesel and it was the engine not a gearbox, still worked the same way, except I only ran the motor for 5 minuets at a time. Should have seen the gunk that came out!
I reckoned as there is no heat in the gearbox like the engine it would take time for the oil to heat up - seemed to have worked but took all day!
@@BritannicaRestorations I bet your local oil company loves you right about now! :D
20 L for C$80 - not too bad if you buy in bulk
I did the same as you did but with gearboxes. Filled them to the top with agricultural derv which we could still use in our burner to keep the place warm. One thing that I found very handy is that if you left the diesel in the box for a week, it would soften the seals and they would swell a little so there was less oil leaks, it certainly was a bonus. The fun of it all!!!. best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
I was going to say the same. With no load diesel is fine and has great detergent qualities. Most of all it's cheap.
Very interesting Mike !, the axles can be washed out with ATF too I supose, right? Good idea for all these old vehicles ! Thank you for sharing!
Yes you can - ATF has some chlorine in it which is a good cleaner - if you strip an auto box or power steering you can see
If you take a 5l oil container and cut the side out of it. Then put lid on it then cut a little oil on side on opposite side then lay on cross member it wont pour over cross member and you can direct the flow better.
Bill Soucess I do something similar. I cut the side out of a 2.5 litre container, but I left the top off. The oil drops into the container and then pours out of the ‘top’ down into the catcher
MIKE!!!!! Is it true that you have a new lad starting with you????. The word on the street is that he is English and is called Harry, his family are well into Landys. Rob, (LOL)
Yes he can have a job - but I am not letting his Grand Dad drive!
Like watchin oil drain ..was makin some waffles ... do like a bit of claret ..😁pip pips and carryon squadron leader
Hi Mike, have you heard of Pro - Ma MBL8, it's a metal based lubricant, I have been using it in my LC Cruiser 60 series for 20 years now and the only thing worn out is my auto trans, can't put it in there, both diffs and transfer and engine really good after 600k no oil use in engine or noise from gears at all. Might be an idea? BTW used to own two series Land Rovers, 2a and 3. Love your way of working by the way.
Never heard of it but I will check it out
G'day Mike, thoroughly enjoy your videos. You have taught me heaps. I wanted to ask you about a knock or tick in my 300tdi. Its been there for 30000kms and is rougher than most when idling. I think I have tracked it down to a cylinder and believe it may be a lifter. Underneath the bellhousing sounds quite loud also. But as far as reliability, it has never been an issue. Have you had anything like this in a 300tdi?
Bet you a beer it is the Vac pump! Get a mechanics stethoscope ( very cheap on eBay or Amazon) and listen to the the vac pump when running= very common
Hi Mike, it looks like the gearbox breather is blocked by the way the oil drains...
I had the smoke tester still attached!
Hi Mike, Could you show how the seats have been fitted with the removal of the seat box. John
I allways thought about it. I think it would give you a feeling of more room as sometimes i like to tuck my feet back so heels of my shoes hit the seatbox. Without the seatbox they would go further
John
I would love to John, but the carpets have been glued in with some strong stuff! Took me an hour to get the transmission cover off
I had a look underneath and it looks as if they have cut the seat base off flush as the battery box lower part is still there - they cut it very close to the handbrake and it is a bit of a bodge - seemed to have used odd long self tapping screws to hold it together
Another 1/2 hour to adjust the hand brake cable as they bent over the original seat base very close to the cable - difficult to get a spanner in
If it were mine, I would have removed all the seat base and made new - battery is behind the mid row seats - so folding the seats for more room is not an option
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations Cheers.
Hey mike put some redline mtl back in the r380 or lt77!
the flush worked wonders!
Mt LT230 crosspin just sheered.......
Bugger...
What are your thoughts on gearbox additives Mike? Im thinking particularly of Molyslip (which Ive used previously on other vehicles). If you wouldnt add it to gear or transfer boxes, how about using it in the diffs?
I never use them - this one shifts just fine after the flush and on ATF
@@BritannicaRestorations I did a bit of research (I of course mean Googling!) and came across a text file about oil additives which I found really interesting, so here it is: www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/snake_oil.txt
What happened with the stuck slip joint on the prop shaft? How did you get it loose? was it OK? I encountered that yesterday, replacing u-joints on the front shaft of our '88 110.
Probably soak it in diesel - you cannot heat it as most has a plastic coating on the spline
Cant you use diesel to clean it
Nm I kept watching lol
Mike, where is the best location to fit an oil temp sender to and R380 (TD5) as I am doing a few mods to mine and want to fit one on my old girl. Cheers Peter
Usually in the sump plug - however you need to have a magnet in there too - I will have a look and get back
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike, I am fitting and additional oil cooler to the cooling loop pipe fitted to some R380s from the factory so at a pinch I could fit it in somewhere along this pipe but it wouldn't give a true box temperature which is what I want. Cheers Mike
@ 3.51.... crikey that track rod is a bit bent eh!?
Been lifted with a fork lift - seen it before
Are you a smoggie living in Canada?
No, I am from the other side of the Eston hills in Guisborough - woolybacks!
Are you a Geordie ? ,,
No from Guisborough Yorkshire
looks like you are doing abit of halal