You have a wonderful talent in not only teaching but also keeping your pupils interested in your lesson. Your speaking style and relaxed nature makes it very comforting to watch you. You appear and truly genuine and honest. This is a set of qualities that will serve you well. I am just an old man trying to scratch a living off of social security, but some day it would be an honor to own one of your pieces of art. And that's what your knives are, truly beautiful art. Thank you for sharing this part of your life with us.
I've been watching a lot of knife making videos lately as I hope to get into the hobby soon. 95% of what I know about the science of how a knife edge actually works, I've just learnt from you. I'm very grateful for your time and effort. You just scored another subscriber.
I've gone through at least 10 videos online on how to learn this skill. All those videos are old men going on and on about things I don't know about and all these complex methods.Pkus they barly showed what they did and how they achieved it and the little things you have to do. This is a thorough simplification of these videos in a clean, understandable form for every level to learn. 10/10
Thank you! I had exactly the same problem you mentioned when I was trying to learn, so this is one of the videos where I was making what I wish I would have had to go off of 😂
Very interesting video, we have been selling buffing wheels for 12 years and I learned something new from you (how to sharpen an Apple seed edge), good job! very informative
This aren't new informations to me but despite your young age, you have a talent to explain without complicate things. Very nice to see a young men knowing what he is talking about, and passing the information with ease. 👍
Apple seed edge was always known as a convex edge for 40 years of my life ,ive only heard apple seed edge a few times ,even if it is the correct way ,most newbies will have most likely heard of convex as apposed to apple seed , the tutorial was great ,if you're using it for finishings of blades ,I'm not trying to undermine your method in any way ,just my opinion after using different methods since i was a teenager .God bless you and your family. Lee.
Convex grind is a very common grind. Especially among custom knives. Appleseed edges look great on a convex grind also. Interesting video. First I’ve seen a buffer used to achieve an edge .
I enjoyed your video on buffing edges and informing people on the basics of buffing. You mention the wheel throwing debris everywhere and the need for proper safety equipment. Regardless of my next question, safety is paramount. Here is my question: Most buffing machines, from jeweler's machines to industrial applications, turn at 1750 rpm, half that of a regular bench grinder. They do this to reduce the loss of rubbing compound through centrifugal force, and to give the operator more control when using the rougher compounds. Why do you prefer motors that turn at or above 3000 RPM?
It's a complicated mix of the loss of rpms when force is applied, and the need to have as many rpms as you can efficiently get in a smaller amount of time. I'm going to use extreme numbers to try and explain more easily. When buffing knives you're trying to remove material from hardened steel with nothing but cloth, wax, and a minute amount of tiny grit. If you were to lay out the surface area of the buffing wheel, and drag the blade from one end to the other as if you were stropping/honing it, (i.e. the equivalent of one rotation of the wheel) you would not be able to notice any change on the blade. Now imagine if that strip, (the surface area of the buffing wheel) was a mile long. You would definitely be able to notice a change on the blade after dragging it for a mile. But if you're only dragging that knife fast enough to cover one foot per minute, it's gonna take you 5,280 minutes to cover that distance. So, you use a machine that will cover that distance faster, and give you noticeable results in less time. The more surface area covered in the least amount of time possible is what you're looking for, because you're taking away so little material that on a molecular level you are actual dragging more particles than you are removing, so it would be an incredibly slow process otherwise. Just keep in mind that the concept of more speed applies to polishing compounds, and not grinding compounds. A 120 grit compound has more grit, removes more material, and has more mass. So, there's no need to go faster because of how much you remover per rotation, and the mass would cause loss of compound at higher rpms due to centrifugal force. Sorry for the long explanation, it's a bit complicated to try and define it because it's just something that I do without thinking about it most of the time.
Oh, and as far as the comparison to other buffing machines, jewlers buffing machines are usually dealing with softer metals, so they see more removal per rotation than hardened steel, and want to avoid the heat from higher rpms. I've never heard of industrial buffing machines before, but my assumption would be they are running lower rpms because they are trying to remove more material faster with lower grit compound, and like you said, don't want to fling it off.
It depends. If you just want something quick and easy you can go into your local harbor freight. If you want it to stand the test of time and be a permanent solution, go to an official knife making supplier like Jantz knife supply. knifemaking.com/collections/grinding-polishing-and-sharpening
Heya, I do not know the specific grit of each, but here is the link to both for more details 🫡 Black Compound: knifemaking.com/products/la855-black-magic White Compound: knifemaking.com/products/lm4-4-oz-white-rouge
1st video that I have seen that describes the Appleseed edge and how to easily obtain it. This is the same Also used on high end diving knifes which are usually quite thick.
That was most informative Stanley's Steel, thanks for the demo. The coarse compound is 240 grit, the medium is ? and the polishing compound is ? Could you let me know please, I am , and always have been interested in knife sharpening. You've got a nice setup there with a heater as well. Do you know anything about the French Opinel knives which appear to have only one grind on each side? Best regards.
The compounds aren't as much classified by their grit count, except for the roughest grits of compound. It does make searching for the right compound a little different, but it is kinda easier. Jantz knife supply is where I get most of mine, and they are descriptive of what compound has what level of grit in terms of "roughing compound, polishing compound, scratchless finishing compound". I haven't ever heard of that type of knife, but if it is similar to a single sided straight razor, then you follow the same process with the exception of ignoring the flat side entirely as you don't want to throw off the shaving accuracy. If you notice a rolling of the edge or any burrs, then you can very carefully and gently do one or two passes, but you don't want to remove any material from the flat side.
Thank you! Unfortunately keeping links active and accurate is not very realistic because things are always going in and out of stock. As long as you get the general idea of what you need, you should be able to find them pretty easily.
@@StanleysSteel I guess thanks, but currently i just purchased a buffer machine/ and I can purchase the wheels, but cannot get much info as to the compounds grit structure or strength?, I am looking at jantz and sharpening supplies? Any info you can tell me about that red compound you show would b appreciated.. Thanks again
You're on the right track with Jantz, that's where I get most of my stuff. I'm sorry that I am not being more help, I am in the middle of moving and just drove from 146am to 951pm, lots going on, so tracking down and sharing those links seems like a monumental task at the moment 😅
Smaller blades can be a real challenge. You gotta be super careful. What I usually do is take one buffing wheel that is the medium jean-like material, and load it up heavily with the medium compound. You want to get it to the point where the surface of the wheel is almost a smooth/solid surface rather than soft cloth. Then you can carefully support the blade by pressing it against the length of your finger 👉 like a shelf, and work with it that way. When you want to do the final sharpening, you can just add the final compound untop of the medium compound, and it should still work just fine. If you're gonna do this, make sure you have water nearby because the blade will get hot fast, and you don't want to ruin the heat-treat of the metal or burn yourself. You can sometimes use this method on pocket knives, but NEVER on a blade that doesn't lock in to place. Be EXTREMELY careful about not letting the spine of the blade contact the wheel, because it WILL grab and throw the blade and/or cut you. It is a very delicate process, but with time and practice it's very doable. Best of luck and stay safe! 🙂 Lol, I might end up needing to make a video of sharpening pocket knives
I'm sorry, I would be more specific, but they change from time to time. Just look up sharpening compound on Jantz Knife Supply website, and it it pretty self explanatory as to which is more or less grit
No, I believe they have seperate purposes. Emery compound is a more aggressive grease compound, whereas Black Magic is a milder compound that removes scratches from other compounds. To be clear I am assuming you meant Emery compound? There is an Avery Abrasives company out there, but I am not familiar with their products, and Emery compound is quite common.
@@StanleysSteel perfect Thankyou so much. The reason I’m asking is because the greaseless compound you recommend is out of stock. So I wanted to see if maybe black magic would be more agressive than black emery. I feel like for some reason black emery doesn’t work out that great for me, not sure why. So I wanted to test something a lil more agressive. Guess I’m gonna have to wait for greaseless to be back in stock
Yes, unfortunately the aggressive greaseless are used the most and therefore go out of stock more often. Your second best option would be this *. It is meant to remove the scratches from the grinder and greasless grits, so it sound be enough to get the job done, at least until the greaseless comes back in stock. * knifemaking.com/products/la312-medium-cut-color-compound
@@StanleysSteel I appreciate your reply and I’m actuslly gonnna give it a try based on your recommendation and description. Since I use the grinder a lot it might actually be beneficial one way or another. Hopefully you can answer this last question. Have you tried their brush on compounds? Or have any info on them? I was thinking maybe The 600- 800 grit brush on compound might work.
So, I used to use those, but I found them to be much like sanding belts in the way that it wears off and stops having good effects pretty fast. The problem is that, as advertised, it doesn't fling off, and it kinda ends up ruining the wheel. You have to use a rake cleaner to remove the old compound and put on new, which wears out the wheel so much faster that normal compounds.
This is the medium grit: knifemaking.com/products/la855-black-magic And this is the light buffing compound:knifemaking.com/products/la810-3-lb-pink-scratchless
@@StanleysSteel Thank you for your rapid response. Do you have a product link to the "rough" 240 grit compound? I didn't see a product on that website that listed it as 220 grit.
So it is a different type of compound called "greaseless" and it has to be kept refrigerated, and when applied to the wheel it needs to be given plenty of time to dry, like overnight. It looks like the 240 grit is out of stock, but you can select from other grits. knifemaking.com/products/greaseless-bar-compound?variant=40543929893000
Interesting... most videos are showing 'normal' edge bevels... You are showing how to maintain a compound bevel? or turn into one?? It wouldve been nice to see you remove the chips in the blade though...
Hmmm, that's a difficult one. Buffing handles is allot more finicky because it's more about how much/little and type of compound you use. A good muslin wheel works for both metal and wood, with enough play for the wood, but enough stiffness for the metal. You just have to make sure that you use polishes that have little to no grit in them, and be VERY careful about any compound that has a color to it. There are red and white and green compounds, and if the grain of the wood is to open, it will get those pigments all up in those pits, giving your handle a nasty look. So I would say go with a muslin wheel and a neutral colored compound that has little to no grit in it 🙂👍
@@StanleysSteel thanks heaps mate. That clears it up a fair bit. I don't use the same wheels for wood and metal, so would an even looser wheel suit the handles better given it doesn't need to work on metal?
@@StanleysSteel thanks mate. Appreciate longer videos like this explaining why you do something, not just a quick run through. The algorithm won't reward you for it, but it helps. All the best.
Appleseed is convex bevel grind correct? It can be accomplished on a stone by grinding a "wedge edge", as you call it, then remove shoulder by lowering the angle and allow some flex in the wrist. Like so th-cam.com/video/UhD6gb2Dako/w-d-xo.html I don't have experience in machine sharpening, but I am curious about it. Do you have any idea what level of sharpness you are able to get BESS score etc? EDIT: to elatorate, the problem as I understand it with a soft medium sharpening is that the apex should be be two planes meeting at a sharp angle, but the soft medium can overshoot and round over the apex. So the result isn't as sharp as possible.
The challenge with using a stone to form/rework/sharpen a convex edge is that it is entirely dependent on the person sharpening being able to repeatably start and stop each stroke at specific angles. Some people find it very intuitive, and can develop that skill in under an hour, other people find it incredibly frustrating and end up ruining the edge of what they're sharpening so many times the give up. It's even harder on a grinding wheel, as material is being removed very fast, and its physically awkward on smaller wheels (I find 12" to be the best practical size you can still have in a home workshop, but there's a reason the grinding hull of a cutlers workshop in days gone by retained the use of +4' diameter wheels they sat astride, long after the introduction of electric motors). I was initially taught how to do it with wood chisels and carving tools, and would never go back to double-bevel grinds now. Achieving the same result with a knife requires a lot more skill by comparison, but totally worth it.
The problem with those tests is that they can be a bit deceiving and arbitrary. Any decently sharp knife will cut a tomatoe or slice paper or any of those tests, but only knives with specific geometry, (like a super thin kitchen knife) will be able to do those extremely thin and consistent tomatoe/carrot/whateverelse cuts. Now, apparently there are little sharpness gages that you can put the edge in and it will give you a digital reading of how sharp it is, but I haven't ever gotten one. What matters the most is that you're able to get the knife sharp enough do what you need to with it. I'm sorry for the let down, but hopefully that explains things a little.
I changed the direction of the wheel rotation and believe it's less dangerous than the direction as grinder normally rotates counter clockwise rotation. The rotation away from your body if the blade gets tossed ( yes scary) so it's still safer than the counter clockwise direction that can bounce away from the table and going to fly until it hits something prehaps your body parts. I'm guilty of only using one grit on my wheel so I have learned and will correct. Thanks and the grinder setup correctly is so much better and easier. Sometimes education does take longer videos you are excused.
putting a knife to a buffing wheel is the most dangerous way to sharpen a knife. If you make any mistakes that will take the knife out of your hands faster than you can blink. There are alot better and SAFER ways to sharpen. I would not suggest this method.
It's not appreciably more hazardous than many other hand buffing and polishing operations that are routinely undertaken. The fact it's a sharp object makes it *feel* more risky, but if you allow a buffing wheel to catch and throw *any* workpiece it can cause life-changing injuries if it happens to strike you. Sure using a hand sharpening technique is guaranteed to remove that risk, but powered grinding, linishing (belt-grinding) and buffing machines are all regularly used by cutlers/bladesmiths worldwide daily, with very low injury rates.
You have a wonderful talent in not only teaching but also keeping your pupils interested in your lesson. Your speaking style and relaxed nature makes it very comforting to watch you. You appear and truly genuine and honest. This is a set of qualities that will serve you well. I am just an old man trying to scratch a living off of social security, but some day it would be an honor to own one of your pieces of art. And that's what your knives are, truly beautiful art. Thank you for sharing this part of your life with us.
Thank you so much for the kind words! I wish you all the best in your knife making endeavors! 🙂✌️
For a young man you have a wealth of information and your teaching skills are top notch. Well done.
Thank you so much! 😁
Great Tutorial and at 75 yoa, I learned something. I feel like sharpening something now, thanks for getting me off the couch.
Lol, go for it! U got it! 😁
I've been watching a lot of knife making videos lately as I hope to get into the hobby soon. 95% of what I know about the science of how a knife edge actually works, I've just learnt from you. I'm very grateful for your time and effort. You just scored another subscriber.
Thank you for the support, and best of luck with your knife hobby endeavors! 😁
I've gone through at least 10 videos online on how to learn this skill. All those videos are old men going on and on about things I don't know about and all these complex methods.Pkus they barly showed what they did and how they achieved it and the little things you have to do. This is a thorough simplification of these videos in a clean, understandable form for every level to learn. 10/10
Thank you! I had exactly the same problem you mentioned when I was trying to learn, so this is one of the videos where I was making what I wish I would have had to go off of 😂
Very interesting video, we have been selling buffing wheels for 12 years and I learned something new from you (how to sharpen an Apple seed edge), good job! very informative
Thank you! 😁
What I'd like to know is where do you buy your compound.... I already have a very strong motor
This aren't new informations to me but despite your young age, you have a talent to explain without complicate things. Very nice to see a young men knowing what he is talking about, and passing the information with ease. 👍
Thank you! 😁
@@StanleysSteel You're very welcome ! 🙂👍
Apple seed edge was always known as a convex edge for 40 years of my life ,ive only heard apple seed edge a few times ,even if it is the correct way ,most newbies will have most likely heard of convex as apposed to apple seed , the tutorial was great ,if you're using it for finishings of blades ,I'm not trying to undermine your method in any way ,just my opinion after using different methods since i was a teenager .God bless you and your family. Lee.
Thoroughly impressed, what a great video, and you explained everything wonderfully! 👍👍
Thank you! 🙂
@@StanleysSteel My pleasure
Thanks! I might prefer this sharpening method. I’ll keep watching those who buff sharp.
Thanks for the great advice and methodology for what can make a great difference in your knife’s sharpness 🔪👍🏻
Convex grind is a very common grind. Especially among custom knives. Appleseed edges look great on a convex grind also. Interesting video. First I’ve seen a buffer used to achieve an edge .
I enjoyed your video on buffing edges and informing people on the basics of buffing. You mention the wheel throwing debris everywhere and the need for proper safety equipment. Regardless of my next question, safety is paramount. Here is my question: Most buffing machines, from jeweler's machines to industrial applications, turn at 1750 rpm, half that of a regular bench grinder. They do this to reduce the loss of rubbing compound through centrifugal force, and to give the operator more control when using the rougher compounds. Why do you prefer motors that turn at or above 3000 RPM?
It's a complicated mix of the loss of rpms when force is applied, and the need to have as many rpms as you can efficiently get in a smaller amount of time. I'm going to use extreme numbers to try and explain more easily. When buffing knives you're trying to remove material from hardened steel with nothing but cloth, wax, and a minute amount of tiny grit. If you were to lay out the surface area of the buffing wheel, and drag the blade from one end to the other as if you were stropping/honing it, (i.e. the equivalent of one rotation of the wheel) you would not be able to notice any change on the blade. Now imagine if that strip, (the surface area of the buffing wheel) was a mile long. You would definitely be able to notice a change on the blade after dragging it for a mile. But if you're only dragging that knife fast enough to cover one foot per minute, it's gonna take you 5,280 minutes to cover that distance. So, you use a machine that will cover that distance faster, and give you noticeable results in less time. The more surface area covered in the least amount of time possible is what you're looking for, because you're taking away so little material that on a molecular level you are actual dragging more particles than you are removing, so it would be an incredibly slow process otherwise. Just keep in mind that the concept of more speed applies to polishing compounds, and not grinding compounds. A 120 grit compound has more grit, removes more material, and has more mass. So, there's no need to go faster because of how much you remover per rotation, and the mass would cause loss of compound at higher rpms due to centrifugal force. Sorry for the long explanation, it's a bit complicated to try and define it because it's just something that I do without thinking about it most of the time.
Oh, and as far as the comparison to other buffing machines, jewlers buffing machines are usually dealing with softer metals, so they see more removal per rotation than hardened steel, and want to avoid the heat from higher rpms. I've never heard of industrial buffing machines before, but my assumption would be they are running lower rpms because they are trying to remove more material faster with lower grit compound, and like you said, don't want to fling it off.
Thanks.
Good job
Hello. Where can I get the grinder and the wheels. Thx for the informative video.
It depends. If you just want something quick and easy you can go into your local harbor freight. If you want it to stand the test of time and be a permanent solution, go to an official knife making supplier like Jantz knife supply. knifemaking.com/collections/grinding-polishing-and-sharpening
Nice, some good teachings there.
Thank you! Can't wait to get back in to posting more regularly 😁
Good video but I really think that convex blades deserve its own spot way more than saber does. Saber is just a variation of flat after all.
Thank you very much for your detailed response to my question about sharpening small blades. I had an error message replying directly to your message.
No worries, hope it helps, best of luck!
Un des meilleurs sur le sujet
White polishing wheel is for Fine polishing； Yellow polishing wheel is for medium polishing； denim buffing wheel is for coarse polishing.
Hi, what grit is grey compound and white compound? Thanks
Heya, I do not know the specific grit of each, but here is the link to both for more details 🫡
Black Compound: knifemaking.com/products/la855-black-magic
White Compound:
knifemaking.com/products/lm4-4-oz-white-rouge
1st video that I have seen that describes the Appleseed edge and how to easily obtain it. This is the same Also used on high end diving knifes which are usually quite thick.
That was most informative Stanley's Steel, thanks for the demo. The coarse compound is 240 grit, the medium is ? and the polishing compound is ? Could you let me know please, I am , and always have been interested in knife sharpening. You've got a nice setup there with a heater as well. Do you know anything about the French Opinel knives which appear to have only one grind on each side? Best regards.
The compounds aren't as much classified by their grit count, except for the roughest grits of compound. It does make searching for the right compound a little different, but it is kinda easier. Jantz knife supply is where I get most of mine, and they are descriptive of what compound has what level of grit in terms of "roughing compound, polishing compound, scratchless finishing compound". I haven't ever heard of that type of knife, but if it is similar to a single sided straight razor, then you follow the same process with the exception of ignoring the flat side entirely as you don't want to throw off the shaving accuracy. If you notice a rolling of the edge or any burrs, then you can very carefully and gently do one or two passes, but you don't want to remove any material from the flat side.
Great but could you puts some links as to where I can purchase those wheels and compounds? Thanks
Thank you! Unfortunately keeping links active and accurate is not very realistic because things are always going in and out of stock. As long as you get the general idea of what you need, you should be able to find them pretty easily.
@@StanleysSteel I guess thanks, but currently i just purchased a buffer machine/ and I can purchase the wheels, but cannot get much info as to the compounds grit structure or strength?, I am looking at jantz and sharpening supplies? Any info you can tell me about that red compound you show would b appreciated..
Thanks again
You're on the right track with Jantz, that's where I get most of my stuff. I'm sorry that I am not being more help, I am in the middle of moving and just drove from 146am to 951pm, lots going on, so tracking down and sharing those links seems like a monumental task at the moment 😅
Excellent tutorial. I would suggest that you go to a 1700-2000 RPM grinder and your heat issues (for the most part) will disappear. Thanks
Excellent point! Thank you for sharing!
On a smaller blade, do you have a specific method or tool so your hands don't get struck by the polishing wheel?
Smaller blades can be a real challenge. You gotta be super careful. What I usually do is take one buffing wheel that is the medium jean-like material, and load it up heavily with the medium compound. You want to get it to the point where the surface of the wheel is almost a smooth/solid surface rather than soft cloth. Then you can carefully support the blade by pressing it against the length of your finger 👉 like a shelf, and work with it that way. When you want to do the final sharpening, you can just add the final compound untop of the medium compound, and it should still work just fine. If you're gonna do this, make sure you have water nearby because the blade will get hot fast, and you don't want to ruin the heat-treat of the metal or burn yourself. You can sometimes use this method on pocket knives, but NEVER on a blade that doesn't lock in to place. Be EXTREMELY careful about not letting the spine of the blade contact the wheel, because it WILL grab and throw the blade and/or cut you. It is a very delicate process, but with time and practice it's very doable. Best of luck and stay safe! 🙂 Lol, I might end up needing to make a video of sharpening pocket knives
Is that middle step is a green compound?
The color of the compound can vary, but what's important is going from rough to fine compound. Green is usually a medium compound
Where do you buy your compounds?
Normally from Jantz knife supply
Names of the compounds?
I'm sorry, I would be more specific, but they change from time to time. Just look up sharpening compound on Jantz Knife Supply website, and it it pretty self explanatory as to which is more or less grit
So is that black magic compound you use the same as the black every? Because ei already have the black every one.
No, I believe they have seperate purposes. Emery compound is a more aggressive grease compound, whereas Black Magic is a milder compound that removes scratches from other compounds. To be clear I am assuming you meant Emery compound? There is an Avery Abrasives company out there, but I am not familiar with their products, and Emery compound is quite common.
@@StanleysSteel perfect Thankyou so much. The reason I’m asking is because the greaseless compound you recommend is out of stock. So I wanted to see if maybe black magic would be more agressive than black emery. I feel like for some reason black emery doesn’t work out that great for me, not sure why. So I wanted to test something a lil more agressive. Guess I’m gonna have to wait for greaseless to be back in stock
Yes, unfortunately the aggressive greaseless are used the most and therefore go out of stock more often. Your second best option would be this *. It is meant to remove the scratches from the grinder and greasless grits, so it sound be enough to get the job done, at least until the greaseless comes back in stock. * knifemaking.com/products/la312-medium-cut-color-compound
@@StanleysSteel I appreciate your reply and I’m actuslly gonnna give it a try based on your recommendation and description. Since I use the grinder a lot it might actually be beneficial one way or another. Hopefully you can answer this last question. Have you tried their brush on compounds? Or have any info on them? I was thinking maybe The 600- 800 grit brush on compound might work.
So, I used to use those, but I found them to be much like sanding belts in the way that it wears off and stops having good effects pretty fast. The problem is that, as advertised, it doesn't fling off, and it kinda ends up ruining the wheel. You have to use a rake cleaner to remove the old compound and put on new, which wears out the wheel so much faster that normal compounds.
What grit were the medium and light buffing compounds?
This is the medium grit: knifemaking.com/products/la855-black-magic
And this is the light buffing compound:knifemaking.com/products/la810-3-lb-pink-scratchless
@@StanleysSteel Thank you for your rapid response. Do you have a product link to the "rough" 240 grit compound? I didn't see a product on that website that listed it as 220 grit.
So it is a different type of compound called "greaseless" and it has to be kept refrigerated, and when applied to the wheel it needs to be given plenty of time to dry, like overnight. It looks like the 240 grit is out of stock, but you can select from other grits. knifemaking.com/products/greaseless-bar-compound?variant=40543929893000
Interesting... most videos are showing 'normal' edge bevels... You are showing how to maintain a compound bevel? or turn into one?? It wouldve been nice to see you remove the chips in the blade though...
Yeesss, I definitely need to make a video specifically focused on removing edge dents/chips
Nice video. Bit off topic, but which wheels/compounds have you found best for polishing stabilised handles compared to polishing steel?
Hmmm, that's a difficult one. Buffing handles is allot more finicky because it's more about how much/little and type of compound you use. A good muslin wheel works for both metal and wood, with enough play for the wood, but enough stiffness for the metal. You just have to make sure that you use polishes that have little to no grit in them, and be VERY careful about any compound that has a color to it. There are red and white and green compounds, and if the grain of the wood is to open, it will get those pigments all up in those pits, giving your handle a nasty look. So I would say go with a muslin wheel and a neutral colored compound that has little to no grit in it 🙂👍
@@StanleysSteel thanks heaps mate. That clears it up a fair bit. I don't use the same wheels for wood and metal, so would an even looser wheel suit the handles better given it doesn't need to work on metal?
Yes, absolutely, the looser the better 🫡
@@StanleysSteel thanks mate. Appreciate longer videos like this explaining why you do something, not just a quick run through. The algorithm won't reward you for it, but it helps. All the best.
Exactly! Thank you for acknowledging it 😂
Appleseed is convex bevel grind correct?
It can be accomplished on a stone by grinding a "wedge edge", as you call it, then remove shoulder by lowering the angle and allow some flex in the wrist. Like so th-cam.com/video/UhD6gb2Dako/w-d-xo.html
I don't have experience in machine sharpening, but I am curious about it. Do you have any idea what level of sharpness you are able to get BESS score etc?
EDIT: to elatorate, the problem as I understand it with a soft medium sharpening is that the apex should be be two planes meeting at a sharp angle, but the soft medium can overshoot and round over the apex. So the result isn't as sharp as possible.
The challenge with using a stone to form/rework/sharpen a convex edge is that it is entirely dependent on the person sharpening being able to repeatably start and stop each stroke at specific angles.
Some people find it very intuitive, and can develop that skill in under an hour, other people find it incredibly frustrating and end up ruining the edge of what they're sharpening so many times the give up.
It's even harder on a grinding wheel, as material is being removed very fast, and its physically awkward on smaller wheels (I find 12" to be the best practical size you can still have in a home workshop, but there's a reason the grinding hull of a cutlers workshop in days gone by retained the use of +4' diameter wheels they sat astride, long after the introduction of electric motors).
I was initially taught how to do it with wood chisels and carving tools, and would never go back to double-bevel grinds now. Achieving the same result with a knife requires a lot more skill by comparison, but totally worth it.
The only thing I was hoping to see was how sharp you can 'actually get' a knife to be using this method.
The problem with those tests is that they can be a bit deceiving and arbitrary. Any decently sharp knife will cut a tomatoe or slice paper or any of those tests, but only knives with specific geometry, (like a super thin kitchen knife) will be able to do those extremely thin and consistent tomatoe/carrot/whateverelse cuts. Now, apparently there are little sharpness gages that you can put the edge in and it will give you a digital reading of how sharp it is, but I haven't ever gotten one. What matters the most is that you're able to get the knife sharp enough do what you need to with it. I'm sorry for the let down, but hopefully that explains things a little.
I changed the direction of the wheel rotation and believe it's less dangerous than the direction as grinder normally rotates counter clockwise rotation.
The rotation away from your body if the blade gets tossed ( yes scary) so it's still safer than the counter clockwise direction that can bounce away from the table and going to fly until it hits something prehaps your body parts.
I'm guilty of only using one grit on my wheel so I have learned and will correct.
Thanks and the grinder setup correctly is so much better and easier.
Sometimes education does take longer videos you are excused.
I'm buying what ya selling even though I don't need it.
putting a knife to a buffing wheel is the most dangerous way to sharpen a knife. If you make any mistakes that will take the knife out of your hands faster than you can blink. There are alot better and SAFER ways to sharpen. I would not suggest this method.
It's not appreciably more hazardous than many other hand buffing and polishing operations that are routinely undertaken.
The fact it's a sharp object makes it *feel* more risky, but if you allow a buffing wheel to catch and throw *any* workpiece it can cause life-changing injuries if it happens to strike you.
Sure using a hand sharpening technique is guaranteed to remove that risk, but powered grinding, linishing (belt-grinding) and buffing machines are all regularly used by cutlers/bladesmiths worldwide daily, with very low injury rates.
@@joshuakelly8103 belt will come off if an edge catches and with a set up platen. but a wheel on a grinder of buffer is not as forgiving.
My wife Andi worked for Western Cutlery for a long time. We used the belt grinder to sharpen the blades.
Ja tottler